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Can this crack be fixed? by sloth85GT
Started on: 09-22-2001 09:24 PM
Replies: 10
Last post by: sloth85GT on 09-24-2001 12:33 AM
sloth85GT
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Report this Post09-22-2001 09:24 PM Click Here to See the Profile for sloth85GTSend a Private Message to sloth85GTDirect Link to This Post
Is this crack fixable? I took off my bra today (that sounds funny lol) and I saw the crack, I knew it was there when I bought it but I didn't know how big it was exactly. I'm getting the car painted next spring anyway, so that's not a big deal. Also the alignment is off, ass you will be able to see in the pictures. It seems like it needs to be lifted a bit more somehow.



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Dan
1985 Silver GT

[This message has been edited by sloth85GT (edited 09-22-2001).]

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Kasdan
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Report this Post09-23-2001 12:02 AM Click Here to See the Profile for KasdanSend a Private Message to KasdanDirect Link to This Post
Sandpaper and bondo

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Tyler Morgan, 1986 GT

Power Steering, Holley Scoop
Aim=FieroDriver1986

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sloth85GT
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Report this Post09-23-2001 12:12 AM Click Here to See the Profile for sloth85GTSend a Private Message to sloth85GTDirect Link to This Post
that's what I was thinking, haven't tried it yet.
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Devotshka
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Report this Post09-23-2001 12:39 AM Click Here to See the Profile for DevotshkaSend a Private Message to DevotshkaDirect Link to This Post
I had a rip in the same spot, only about twice as long. I took an old soldering iron and melted a groove into the opening, like a valley.
Underneath i laid a piece of fiberglass cloth across the opening and a light coat of resin. Just enough to make the hole NOT go all the way through anymore.
For the outside i used 30 minute two-part epoxy and built the area up in three applications.
Once it had fully cured i sanded the excess down so all you could see of the damage was a different color material for the length of the tear.
The repair has been in place for about 3 years now, with no signs of giving up, and has retained its original flexibility (you can flex the damaged area in and out without it cracking just as you can the undamaged corner).
Hope that helps.
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sloth85GT
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Report this Post09-23-2001 12:47 AM Click Here to See the Profile for sloth85GTSend a Private Message to sloth85GTDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Devotshka:
I had a rip in the same spot, only about twice as long. I took an old soldering iron and melted a groove into the opening, like a valley.
Underneath i laid a piece of fiberglass cloth across the opening and a light coat of resin. Just enough to make the hole NOT go all the way through anymore.
For the outside i used 30 minute two-part epoxy and built the area up in three applications.
Once it had fully cured i sanded the excess down so all you could see of the damage was a different color material for the length of the tear.
The repair has been in place for about 3 years now, with no signs of giving up, and has retained its original flexibility (you can flex the damaged area in and out without it cracking just as you can the undamaged corner).
Hope that helps.

wow that was the kind of help I was looking for, can you go into a bit more detail. I've never done any Fiberglass work, what do I do?

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fiero_hunter85
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Report this Post09-23-2001 12:55 AM Click Here to See the Profile for fiero_hunter85Send a Private Message to fiero_hunter85Direct Link to This Post
i always use flexable bumper repair on stuff like that and it works good. i get a big tube of it for only $30 at NAPA and it never cracks or comes off.
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Devotshka
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Report this Post09-23-2001 01:00 AM Click Here to See the Profile for DevotshkaSend a Private Message to DevotshkaDirect Link to This Post
Well, as for the actual fiberglass part, theres not much to this job.
Just cut a piece of fiberglass cloth or mat about 3 inches larger than the tear in each direction, lay it over the tear.
Grab some resin (even cheapo bondo brand resin will suffice, this is just to make your life easier), and mix it per the instructions.

I use a scrap piece of cardboard as a spreader for a job like this, where precision isn't of primary concern. Scoop up some of the resin and slap it over the cloth/mat. It drips real fast, so you probably want to wear gloves and crappy clothes..... do as i say not as i do, i have no 'good' clothes anymore

Depending on the quality of and type of resin you buy, and on if you properly mixed it, the resin will take 10-20 minutes to harden. It gets REAL hot when hardening if you put a tad too much hardener in it.

I would think you could probably get away without even doing the fiberglass on a repair like this, depending on how large the gap is in the tear. If the opening is like a millimeter or two after you put the V groove into it, you can probably get away without it entirely. I had a pretty severe cut in mine... picture from above the center of the marker light around the corner and within an inch of the pointed moulding... big sucker... i ended up having about 1/4 inch or so opening after putting the groove in it, where epoxy would just drip through, so i had to put something behind it.... i guess i could have used duct tape if i wanted to, but i'm a fiberglass guy
Let me know if you need any other help, or email me if you need more detail.
Good luck.

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Mach10
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Report this Post09-23-2001 05:43 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Mach10Send a Private Message to Mach10Direct Link to This Post
If the panel alignment is off, suspect that the mounting points have been stretched/broken, or else there is structural damage. When I went to go see that car, the original owner wouldn't let me take the bra off, but assured me there was no structural damage. Pull the nose clean off, and fix up all the mounting locations. I can help you with the fibreglass. I have some experience with this type of repair, and a lot more experience with general body repair.
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rogergarrison
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Report this Post09-23-2001 06:23 PM Click Here to See the Profile for rogergarrisonSend a Private Message to rogergarrisonDirect Link to This Post
the reason for the gap at the end is because its stretched apart at the tear. Id cut the split wider and little longer in a "V" shape, then use something like a piece of 2X4 against garage wall to hold it in. then grind or sand all the paint off surrounding area and use Flexible Bumper Repair and let it set overnite. get some inside of cut too if possible. another way would be to pop rivet a piece of metal inside while someone presses the end in. Then use the same repair kit on the outside.

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Mach10
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Report this Post09-23-2001 07:29 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Mach10Send a Private Message to Mach10Direct Link to This Post
roger: I'm sure that's a factor, but from what I can see in this pic plus what I've seen in person, the panel mis-alignment is almost across the whole nose. I still think something's broken underneath. I believe the previous owner told me that his son had hit a fencepole or something while parking (i.e., less than 15km/h). Not hard, but enough to damage the panel, possibly the mounting assembly. to put in perspective, the right indicator/driving lamp looked like it was torn free of it's mounting.

I say rip it off, and see what's to see.

Sloth; you said you couldn't come out tonight? You mentioned hockey or something, and that it finished at 10pm. I'll be at the BF around midnight...

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sloth85GT
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Report this Post09-24-2001 12:33 AM Click Here to See the Profile for sloth85GTSend a Private Message to sloth85GTDirect Link to This Post
Yeah Sean (Mach10) is right, it does stretch right across, I think it could be a mount that's bent, and I think that it just needs to be bent back, but the bumper has to come off first, to fix it anyway.

Sean, I might just take you up on that offer, if you help me, I'll buy the beer . I'm still learning a lot of stuff so the more help the better. And about tonight, I'm home with my lady friend so I won't be out, as you can probably tell. We should get together sometime though.

I think I gave you my number, so either call me or PM me or something, but this next week won't be the best time, it all depends. So lemme know when you're free.

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