After replacing the old clutch, pressure plate and throwout bearing on my 88 GT, the clutch do not fully disengage when pressing the pedal to the floor. A longer slave cylinder push-rod has been fitted (without putting pressure on the clutch in engaged position).

The throw-out distance at the slave cylinder appear to be too small??

Has anyone experienced similar condition? What can be done?

ebhan.

there is still air in the line

quote Originally posted by c m west: there is still air in the line

Ebhan: The car is actually at my mechanic -- he states he has bleeded it twice (once with a vacuum source).

My "guess" is:

a: This clutch (Sachs) requires more throw-out ?

b: The master cylinder "bleeds" too much into the reservoir when clutch pressure is building up

Hehehe.. it's a no go.. You'll never get it to work right.. I've tried with all nwe components, and even if it DOES work, it stops after while. Thats why I'm making a mechanical linkage.

Inspect your PEDAL very closely.
If the bearing surfaces are worn, then it needs replacement.
The slave only moves as far as the master moves. So if your master only gets pushed in one inch, the slave responds by moving one inch.
Two places to check, the pedal pivot, and the banjo (push rod).
crash...

If the flywheel was resurfaced a couple of times or more it may now be too thin for the clutch to release properly. Machining the flywheel moves the pressure plate away from the throwout bearing. Machine shops have a tendancy to take too much off unless you tell them how much to remove. The fix is to replace the flywheel or shim it at the crank. You can get the shims at a tranny shop. Off the top of my head the distance from the end of the crank to the flywheel face is around .80". Been there, done that, never do it again.

PJ
ITA #66 Black

[This message has been edited by PJ (edited 04-01-2001).]

I have the same problem with my '85, if i want to move it i have to start it in gear (car moves when starter turns) and shut it off to stop I have bleed it many times and i cant figure out whats wrong. If you figure it out e-mail me

Kyle

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1984 Pontiac Fiero 2M4 SE (Red)
1985 Pontiac Fiero 2M4 SE (White)

do you have an aluminum clutch pedal arm? - if so then it is bent, remove it and rebend.

Eric - West Coast Fiero www.cwestco.com
310-305-4111

Thats not always the case. I replaced mine, and it didn't do a lick of good.

I had the same problem till i relised the shaft bushings were out of round replaced the bushings and every thing works great my trans has 320,000 on it

this is all happening on an 88. In which case he SHOULD already have the steel pedal, unless a previous owner decided to "upgrade" to the aluminum one. I have to agree with everyone else and say that air in the line is the most likely problem, altho there COULD be something binding up with the clutch linkage at the tranny. As for the flywheel resurfacing problem, isn't it common practice for machine shops to only resurface the clutch disk contact area on the flywheel and not the whole flywheel? just a thought.

I had the same problem. Turns out the clutch master cylinder was sucking air. I replaced it and still had the problem. After several very irritating days in the garage, I figured out that the new master cylinder was also sucking air. I took it back and got another. Third time was the charm. Any, and I mean any air will cause the release not to extend fully and clutch will not disengage properly

Nope, they cut the entire disk which includes the mounting surface for the pressure plate. A .050" shim can make the difference between a clutch that works and one that won't release.

PJ
ITA #66 Black

quote Originally posted by sjp777: I had the same problem. Turns out the clutch master cylinder was sucking air. I replaced it and still had the problem. After several very irritating days in the garage, I figured out that the new master cylinder was also sucking air. I took it back and got another. Third time was the charm. Any, and I mean any air will cause the release not to extend fully and clutch will not disengage properly

Ebhan: Good to hear the problem may be solved by replacing the master cylinder!

Which brand did you buy? Where?

quote Originally posted by ebhan: Ebhan: Good to hear the problem may be solved by replacing the master cylinder! Which brand did you buy? Where?

I think the third one was a raybestos. I got it at Baxter Auto for around $100 brand new

I bought a new GM master for $65.40 and a new GM slave for 91.20 (4-speed slaves cost 55.50) from http://www.gmpartsdirect.com/
Not guaranteed for life, but at least I won't have to replace them every year of my life. Real easy to bleed too.

Wade