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  anyone have good pics of factory sub install?

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anyone have good pics of factory sub install? by Hank is Here
Started on: 02-15-2001 10:20 PM
Replies: 7
Last post by: ferg on 02-16-2001 01:09 PM
Hank is Here
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Report this Post02-15-2001 10:20 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Hank is HereClick Here to Email Hank is HereSend a Private Message to Hank is HereDirect Link to This Post
This weekend, hopefully I will put the wiring for the factory sub in my car. I have read several articles on it but there were no pics of the install. Basically I want pics of the layout of the wiring. From what I have read I can add this without removing the dash, correct?

Also the factory amp is how many watts?

Any anyone know what brand sub speaker Rodney Dickman's is? he does not say on the site. Who has his sub speaker, how is the quality?
Lastly the little plastic piece that has the slider in it does not have the sticker anymore, I want to paint this- I should use SEM paint correct? This is the grey for an 87 GT.

Thanks for the help.

------------------
Hank is Here
87 GT
88 Coupe
84 SE

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fierosound
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Report this Post02-15-2001 10:50 PM Click Here to See the Profile for fierosoundClick Here to visit fierosound's HomePageClick Here to Email fierosoundSend a Private Message to fierosoundDirect Link to This Post
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Hank is Here
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Report this Post02-15-2001 11:03 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Hank is HereClick Here to Email Hank is HereSend a Private Message to Hank is HereDirect Link to This Post
Thanks,
I have looked there already. I am just wondering if there are pics of this out there?
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skitime
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Report this Post02-15-2001 11:14 PM Click Here to See the Profile for skitimeClick Here to Email skitimeSend a Private Message to skitimeDirect Link to This Post
Hank, I don't have any pictures but after installing three factory subwoofers I feel it is a very easy thing to do. I did post the drawings from the factory manual. The easy part is the main harness. Remove the plug from your radio and plug it into the harness. Plug the harness into the radio. Mount the subwoofer in its location. bolt holes are already there for it. Plug the main harness into the subwoofer with the correct plug. The final plug on the main harness is feed over the steering column to a location above the fuse box. I mount the amp under the carpet on the passenger side center console. This save a lot of dimantling for the orginal location but is unnoticeable. This all takes about 15 minutes. Now the harder part. Remove the trim going up the drivers windshield and door and possible the rear pillar depending if you have a sunroof. You need to drop the front of the headliner to run the volume control wire to the overhead light. Just follow the wire supplying power to the overhead light. Plug in the overhead volume control and new power supply for the overhead light. Reassemble the panels. Sit back and enjoy.



[This message has been edited by skitime (edited 02-15-2001).]

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Hank is Here
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Report this Post02-15-2001 11:20 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Hank is HereClick Here to Email Hank is HereSend a Private Message to Hank is HereDirect Link to This Post
That is great thanks
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skitime
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Report this Post02-15-2001 11:47 PM Click Here to See the Profile for skitimeClick Here to Email skitimeSend a Private Message to skitimeDirect Link to This Post
I remember reading the amp is only 13 watts. That doesn't sound like a lot but it is suffient.
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tgowens
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Report this Post02-16-2001 12:27 PM Click Here to See the Profile for tgowensClick Here to visit tgowens's HomePageSend a Private Message to tgowensDirect Link to This Post
The amp is rated at 15 watts. We use Rodney's speakers here at the shop for replacement speakers and they do sound good although I am not sure of the manufacturer.

To install the wiring properly the dash needs to be removed as the wiring for the slider switch runs from the rear of the radio up behind the a/c vents and across the frame to the connector block located on the upper left shroud. from there it continues up the a-pillar and under the headliner.

It is possible to run the wire without removing the headliner but you will have to remove the left sunvisor - the standard dome light wiring is held in place with nylon clips attached to the roof of the car.

I use a "pickle fork" tool designed for removing trim tabs (found at your local auto supply store) to remove the a-pillar. There are two tabs on the a-pillar attached to metal clips along the top of the door which may break if you don't remove the trim piece properly. use the pickle fork from the OUTSIDE of the car, insert it between the plastic a-pillar and the frame and lift up GENTLY - the a-pillar will slide out toward the inside of the car. The a-pillar is attached to the windshield side with two plastic clips which always break (we have them here at the shop if you need any for replacement)........then you will see the dome light wiring running up the side encased in a plastic sleeve held to the frame with plastic tabs. just pop the whole sleeve loose and follow the wiring to the connector on the shroud - that's where you plug in the replacement wiring.

The dashboard is not that difficult to remove but you will need a torx bit and a 7 mm socket and a 10mm socket........you can unbolt the dash and roll it over toward you and have enough room to run the wiring without totally removing the dash.

And, yes, we use SEM paint to paint all of the interior parts here at the shop.......I painted my gray dome/slider control to match my tan interior and it looks just like all of the other tan pieces inside.......

Hope this helps..........if you need any more info, you can call me at the shop at 510-233-4376 and i'll step you through it - I have done this MANY times, on my own cars as well as customers cars.......

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ferg
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Report this Post02-16-2001 01:09 PM Click Here to See the Profile for fergClick Here to Email fergSend a Private Message to fergDirect Link to This Post
I just bought the sub from Rodney. There is no manufacturer on it anywhere, and the instructions/speaker specs look homemade.
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