I'm going to rebuild my 2.8. I've toyed with the idea of acquiring a larger engine, but have all but dismissed the idea. Members have posted info on a turbo unit and a supercharger manufactured in Canada, and I thank you for that info. Does anyone else have info on other manufacturers of turbo or supercharger kits? Please post.

The only supercharger kit I've heard of for the 2.8 replaces the air conditioner compressor. If you have info on a different one please post it.

Thanks,

Carroll

RS-Motorsports makes a S/C kit they say it makes 200hp @ the wheels, does this replace the A/C? I prefer a turbo over a Supercharger allthough a S/C does have more bang for the buck and for someone who want's a "good" power boost a supercharger will do it, A turbo has more room to control Boost and pou out way more bood than a S/C.

About the RS-Motorsports supercharger, if you noticed it says 9HP at the wheels, well I talked to one of their techs and he said that was a typo, he said depending on the pully size they send out with it, it makes from 6-12 psi, and yes it is the SC kit that takes place of the AC.

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Thanks everyone. Hey xtreme fiero, if I do as you recommend, is there any specific year or engine code I should look for in regard to the crank and rods? Any type of vehicle? Also, should I use forged pistons if I use a turbo or s/c? TIA, Ed.

no it doesn't lower your redline.. the weak vavle train and wimpy cam sets that. a good set of springs and valves from SI or Ferrea will reduce your valve train mass and increase your redline. Don't expect 10,000rpm but you'll be able to pull 7500+ as long as it's properly balanced. my stock 2.8 would pull to 7200 on the dyno with no ill-effects, other than making less hp and TQ at that rpm range than from its factory set 1800-5200 power band. you'll need to increase the throttle body size cause after about 6000 you'r just suckin wind and not makin any real power. (not useable anyway) Forged pistons are great for forced induction applications. Hypereutectic pistons are better cause they'll dispearse the heat faster but you can't put nitrous to a hyper piston. also if your gunna run a Turbo or S/C try and keep your compression dow.. 8.5-9.5:1 with the lower compression you can run more boost and not loose drivability or have really crappy fuel economy.

[This message has been edited by 1FST2M6 (edited 08-17-2000).]

I am not sure of any Vin code for the 3.1 you may want to check out Ed Parks. I'm sure some body knows the web address. I think you could even go up to 3.3 mabye 3.4 or more !

The largest you can make a 2.8L is a 3.2L,
a 2.8 with a stroke of "3.31" instead of "2.99" and bored .020" over is actually not a 3.2L nor is a .030" over bore, still a 3.1L, but that is usually what people call them. This is their way of refuring to the motor as being a 2.8L that is stroked and bored, instead of a GM built 3.1L. To ataine an actually 3.2 you need to bore it over .060".

My motor is bored .060" over, and is still stock stroke "2.99" and it is a 2.9L, but if you want to use nitrous, turbo, or SC I would not recomend any more then a .030" overbore, you don't want to lose to much streagh if you are going to add boost.

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Also, if you're going to swap to the 3.1 crank, you need the crank, and 3.1 pistons. The rods are the same, but the 3.1 pistons hold the rod higher to make up for the difference in stroke. My 2.8 lost a ring ping and started making some horride noises so it's in the shop now getting just that done to it, the 3.1 crank, and bore (still waiting to see what size I can go, people say you can go .060 but others have said it's a little risky with the thinner cylinder walls) also getting the whole thing balanced, and a full prof rebuild, I beleive a 3 angle valve job comes along with the price, but after all is said an done, it's only a little cheeper then getting a crate engine, but you won't have to pay to get the mods done to get it in, and you don't have to worry about new wiring, or any other strange things.