Ok, I have converted Greg Piet's schematic into a PCB. You can find it in PDF (you need Adobe Acrobat) format here: https://www.fiero.nl/uploads/flasher.pdf .

Please be aware that I have not tested the design for the following reason:

1) I do not have a fiero with the proper turn-signals,
2) I didn't have the time to actually build it (designing the PCB already took up a bit too much time...).

Perhaps Greg Piet or anyone else with knowledge about electronics can test it.

That schematic I put up is the same design i built my prototype. When I get a chance (hloding one breath would be bad) I will build one from the overlay. The prototype works fine (the day I posted the schematic I had a failure though (loose wire), and when I get my hands on a digital camera Ill make some pics of the prototype and where it is located.

I'm convinced your design works fine, what I meant was I haven't tested the PCB yet I created from it.

I wanted to stress that the schematic is the same as the proto design.
BTW I went to make a board up and i noticed that the PCB design uses a dual sided board.
I have had little luck with this (I just have a amateurish single light setup in a box), and when using the transparency I found the best luck when resting the printed side of the trans on the board, the board lines are thicker( I think one of the printouts have to be mirrored for this). I was also concerned about the 12V line of the board going to the SCR's. Since those SCR's power the lights, and they take up about 2 amps each, can that board "wire" handle it?

I know this is ramblings, but im having fun typing about it!

Actually, it's a single-side design. The only reason there is a mirrored version is because of the reason you stated. Some like to rest the printed side of the transparancy to the board, others don't. So you only need to use one of the two (in your case the mirrored version).

About the trace being able to handle 4 Amps: I'm not sure, so just to be on the safe side you probably should "tin" the trace (I'm not sure what's it's called in English but I mean that you should make the trace thicker).

For those of you that don't understand what we're talking about.

If you use a laser printer with transparancy in it you get a good cheap sharp mask that you can reuse.

You then lay the mask on a board covered in "photo resist."

expose the photo resist to a light and where the light hits thru the mask will be chemically changed. So where the light hits with this mask, the resist will wash off. thats where the etchant will remove copper.

the whole thing takes 15-20 minutes. longer if your etchant is cold.

It sounds hard, but it's not really.

i looked at the diagrams and read all the stuff you wrote about these but i lost here! can someone explain how to make these lamps work or will someone build these and sell them for a reasonable price!
thanks
Rob

I've been lost since the beginning!
I think they are cool and would love to have this set-up. Maybe someday!

Man, this topic has been going on forever... They're only turn signals!!

Look, you (GT) Bastard, let us have some fun... ok?

I appreciate what greg is doing, I could have never figured this out on my own .. thanks again

I just can't help but wonder. . .
Did Patrick know what would happen with the simple question about sequential turn signals on an old Cougar. . .

No Cooter, I had no idea.

I actually thought that if I was lucky, there might be one person out there who even knew what I was talking about. Let's face it, a lot of the fellas who participate in this forum weren't even a gleam in their father's eyes when the original Cougar was first introduced! I think it's great that so many people have expressed an interest, and of course, it's even better that someone like Greg has put the effort into designing and building a working prototype.

There we go... For the benefit of any newbies who don't know what the heck we're talking about.