How Much Does A Good Paint Job Cost??
Topic started by: rmbrown09, Date: 03-22-2011 03:34 PM
Original thread: http://www.fiero.nl/forum/Archive-000001/HTML/20130314-2-115098.html


rmbrown09 (rbrown5@zagmail.gonzaga.edu) MSG #1, 03-22-2011 03:34 PM
      So I have a 86GT with 216,000 miles on it, and the original paint. For the most part it looks fine, the front bumper area was repainted after a fender bender my dad had 6 or 7 years ago. Other than that it's all original. It is starting to just look old and worn out. The black paint on the mirrors is coming off quite a bit and I was just wondering how much a quality paint job (the same color) would be?

aconesa (a.conesa@verizon.net) MSG #2, 03-22-2011 03:53 PM
      You are asking a question that can have multiple answers depending on your readers. When I had my 86 painted a few years back it was a total of $3600.00. That included sanding down to the original primer to get out all the spidering that happened over the years. It was also painted stock black with a clear coat. Also, I did have the panels taken off for painting and then reassembled.

Abe

[This message has been edited by aconesa (edited 03-22-2011).]

fierosound (fierosound2@shaw.ca) MSG #3, 03-22-2011 03:54 PM
      $50 to $10,000 - How good do you want it to be?

$50 http://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum2/HTML/109415.html



Fiero84Freak (hhraganiv@ualr.edu) MSG #4, 03-22-2011 04:46 PM
      Yep. You're going to get a LOT of answers all over the place, with a WIDE range of options

Even coloring the original color, you should AT LEAST expect to pay for a good quality job anywhere above two grand. That should be your starting budget and then work from there on how good or bad you want the job to be. Paint work is rather intensive. You can do you're own prep to save money, but if you mess up the prep then you'll still be out the money to rectify what you messed up.

It does amaze me that people think that they can pay a couple of hundred bucks and get something that lasts for a decade. It's not going to happen unless you putting down the paint yourself and doing all the prep work and after work.


timgray (timgray.geo@yahoo.com) MSG #5, 03-22-2011 04:49 PM
      Define "good" because the word "good" covers a huge swath.

Some define Good as what is on a rust free 250,000 mile car that was actually washed and waxed in it's life. My definition of good is what is on a new car in a showroom.

Also any flaws in your current paint will have to be fixed before paint goes on or it will simply show through the paint. My definition of a good paint job costs about $4500.00 with my friend discount at a local high end paint shop using cheap stock color PPG paints. Way more if I get fancy and ask for house of Kolor or a color change, etc....



TK MSG #6, 03-22-2011 07:32 PM
      The paint is only there to protect the $3000 in body work and prep. Painting is the easy part.

Bloozberry MSG #7, 03-22-2011 09:19 PM
      I paid $4500 to get my 86 GT fastback repainted almost three years ago. I too removed all the panels off the car to get them painted. The body shop removed the old paint, prepped, and painted them. See here (second post on page 2) www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum1/HTML/079040-2.html for the results. You get what you pay for, and things have gotten more expensive lately with most shops having converted to water-based base coats because of environmantal legislation (at least here in Canada).

[This message has been edited by Bloozberry (edited 03-22-2011).]

1fastsled (bcisna@comcast.net) MSG #8, 03-22-2011 09:52 PM
      I paid 5500.00 a year ago at a body shop by my home. they removed all body panels, walnut blasting was used in prep and it turned out great!! Gonna show a pic as soon as i figure out how!



joshh44 MSG #9, 03-22-2011 11:15 PM
      i wouldnt want to pay for a paintjob that is worth more then my car.
but it sure does look fantastic once finished!!



outlawfiero17 (doomedblackcross@yahoo.com) MSG #10, 03-23-2011 02:31 AM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by aconesa:

You are asking a question that can have multiple answers depending on your readers. When I had my 86 painted a few years back it was a total of $3600.00. That included sanding down to the original primer to get out all the spidering that happened over the years. It was also painted stock black with a clear coat. Also, I did have the panels taken off for painting and then reassembled.

Abe




thats the same scheme i want to do. gloss black on top with the flat on bottom


timgray (timgray.geo@yahoo.com) MSG #11, 03-23-2011 05:33 AM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by joshh44:

i wouldnt want to pay for a paintjob that is worth more then my car.
but it sure does look fantastic once finished!!


That's what separates the tinkerers from the restorers or hotrodders.

I have a paint job worth about $7800.00 on my motorcycle That I could not sell for more than $2500.00, I have spent 3X over the price of the Fiero in restoring it to like new and upgrades, and I will be spending even more on a car that I will not be able to realistically sell for more than $3800.00 when it is finished and better than new. The fiero even in rare modified form does not have any high dollar value. That was proven to us when many of the prototypes went for almost nothing at auction.

It's about chasing a vision and having something that is what you were going after, not value, and worth, and cost.


IIKool (thewhitebus@hotmail.com) MSG #12, 03-23-2011 06:11 AM
      I don't know about other places, But here in Daytona Bch. the economy isn't that great. After a few bangs here and there and adding a new nose and side scoops my car is in the stage of needing new paint again. After checking 3 or 4 local paint shop, (these are not fly by night paint shop, Nor Macco or what ever.) My car completely done, including all prep, painting and buff out completely using HOK Kandy Apple Brandywine. The bids from all four shop. Low $1900.00 High $2500.00. Some work is better than no work. My car which was painted at least 10-12 yrs. ago was painted at our community collage and cost me about $1300.00 for Kandy Apple Brandywine. Agree the paint did have a few mistake in it, But probably no more mistakes than if I had taken it to Joe Blow paint shop and paid $5000.00 dollars for it. I'm sure other people have different deals, Just look around

Bloozberry MSG #13, 03-23-2011 07:16 AM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by joshh44:

i wouldnt want to pay for a paintjob that is worth more then my car.
but it sure does look fantastic once finished!!


I don't mean to target you specifically josh, but I humbly disagree with your logic. It's a self-fulfilling prophecy. Virtually no car goes through it's life cycle without a major devaluation due to obsolescence either in styling or technology. Nobody in the fifties would've paid more than a $100 for a 32 Ford, and now people are paying $80K for one that was maintained. There are hundreds of other examples. There are also millions of people who junked cars because they weren't worth more than the repairs they needed at some point in their lives. I run into people all the time who tell me they wished they had kept this car or that from their youth.

The problem with Fieros right now is that there are too many of them on the road which lack pride of ownership. That drags down the value for everybody else. If nobody took care of their Ferraris, do you honestly believe they would be worth so much on resale? But that's OK because many people do share the same logic that once the repair bills exceed the value of the car, it's toast. That just takes one more off the road and hurries the demise of the junky Fieros. At some point all the people who were willing to spend money on engine swaps, new wheels and tires, major maintenance, and anything else that was worth more than the car itself, they will be listening to people at car shows saying "I wish I would've kept that car".


JazzMan (jazzman@fierocentral.com) MSG #14, 03-23-2011 09:18 AM
      My experience:

I was once quoted $2,000 for a paint job from a shop with a quality reputation. I'd seen the TV commercials for a local DeVry paint school that showed (presumably) a graduate painting at a shop, it looked pretty easy. I walked away from that shop thinking they were a bunch of crack heads high on drugs.

Then I took paint and body classes from my local community college, and painted my Phoenix. The most important lesson I learned wasn't how to do metal work, or filler work. It wasn't proper sanding technique, knowledge about paint mixing chemistry, or any of the many techniques needed to apply paint without sags, drips, dirt, or mottling. No, the most important lesson I learned is that when a shop with a good reputation for quality work quotes you $2,000 to paint your car, you better jump on that deal because it's a steal.

I still take classes there from time to time, painted my Fiero, my bike twice, and lots of odds and ends.


Tha Driver MSG #15, 03-23-2011 04:01 PM
      For a quality job you're going to pay anywhere from $600 (for the cheapest quality paint) to $1,200 just for paint & materials.
The labor will depend on the condition of the car, & whether you want a "scuff & douche" job or quality prep (including stripping any non-factory paint).
$2500 is a good price for quality work on a car that hasn't been re-painted before (& therefore doesn't need stripping). I always prime/seal the entire car with PPG epoxy primer - there is no substitute.
Just remember any cheap job you put on it will have to be stripped when you decide to do it right, & that will add around $500 to the price of the quality paintjob.
I can do quality work probably cheaper than any shop, since I don't have the overhead. I also allow friends & club members to do as much of the work as they want to right here in my shop in order to cut down on the cost. A lot of folks bring me their car completely stripped (as in disassembled) of all the panels except the two roofs. IMO that's the best way to paint one, if you're not doing custom paint/graphics.
HTH,
~ Paul
aka "Tha Driver"


Which do you most can't the least?
What I most can't the least, would be do not a bad job but always a good.

[This message has been edited by Tha Driver (edited 03-25-2011).]

IIKool (thewhitebus@hotmail.com) MSG #16, 03-25-2011 06:59 AM
      [QUOTE]Originally posted by Tha Driver:

I can do quality work probably cheaper than any shop, since I don't have the overhead. I also allow friends & club members to do as much of the work as they want to right here in my shop in order to cut down on the cost. A lot of folks bring me their car completely stripped (as in disassembled) of all the panels except the two roofs. IMO that's the best way to paint one, if you're not doing custom paint/graphics.
HTH,
~ Paul
aka "Tha Driver"

Paul what would be your price to paint a car like this






RULOOKIN (duane.66@rogers.com) MSG #17, 03-25-2011 09:09 AM
      PAINT !!! you get what you pay for, if you go cheapo then done expect a showroom conditon car,moulding,window trim, rockers,door pannels as much as can come off will end up with a much better paint job,
I had my 86 painted 2 times 1st time 1700 second time 2500 now both prices were cheap but i also left the car there for almost a year so price was cheaper would have been twice as much had i wanted the car back in 3 weeks , car was compleatly taken appart primed and a 3 stage candy was applied i decided to put all new door mouldings and window trim but that was extra.
realy depends on what you want to spend i know a guy here in Canada that took his fiero to a porche lambo shop to get painted you dont want to know what he paid but the car looks amazing



Ruffy MSG #18, 03-25-2011 09:24 AM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by RULOOKIN:

PAINT !!! you get what you pay for, if you go cheapo then done expect a showroom conditon car,moulding,window trim, rockers,door pannels as much as can come off will end up with a much better paint job,



hmmmm i spent 100$ for my show winning kawasaki ninja for complete paint and everything i need. you do get what you pay for if you have someone do it for you. pay a man 500$ thats what you get. pay a man 5000$ you get A+. if you are a do it yourself kinda guy and or want to save $$$$$$$$ then read up and do it yourself. if done all 100% the right way without taking the motor out it should cost you no more then 400$ total. it is really easy and just start out with a junk yard hood. once you got it down then paint your car. trust me it is really easy. it just take a little time! i really cant see how people have 4000$ into there paint job at all! yea it looks really good but wow thats allot of money for such a small car. hell we have painted full size SUV's for cheaper and look as good.


Tha Driver MSG #19, 03-25-2011 12:29 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by IIKool:

Paul what would be your price to paint a car like this




Hard to tell with a photo on a computer monitor, but that looks like the new "chrome" paint or a true candy. If so you wouldn't want it on a street car - it can't be touched up or blended in if you get rock chips or damage. But probably around 6 grand.
~ Paul
aka "Tha Driver"


rmbrown09 (rbrown5@zagmail.gonzaga.edu) MSG #20, 03-25-2011 12:37 PM
      ok well in the meantime then since I don't have a small fortune sitting around; the fin is pretty oxidized. There is white stuff covering it, but it disappears when it gets wet. (it's raining now so it looks normal)

How can I remove this? Or can I go somewhere and have them just touch up the fin? Honestly the rest of the paint looks ok, but the fin looks like crap.


Ruffy MSG #21, 03-25-2011 01:32 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by rmbrown09:

ok well in the meantime then since I don't have a small fortune sitting around; the fin is pretty oxidized. There is white stuff covering it, but it disappears when it gets wet. (it's raining now so it looks normal)

How can I remove this? Or can I go somewhere and have them just touch up the fin? Honestly the rest of the paint looks ok, but the fin looks like crap.


is it aluminum? if so take it off and use light sand paper over it like 300 grit and get yourself some black spray paint in a can. it will look like new. of yea primer it first with dark gray


Bloozberry MSG #22, 03-25-2011 01:53 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by Ruffy:

if done all 100% the right way without taking the motor out it should cost you no more then 400$ total.


You have got to be kidding. I'd really like to see the itemized list of supplies you think you'd need to refinish a 25 year old car for $400. Don't include labor, just the supplies: how much of each product, and the name of the products.


Ruffy MSG #23, 03-25-2011 02:19 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by Bloozberry:


You have got to be kidding. I'd really like to see the itemized list of supplies you think you'd need to refinish a 25 year old car for $400. Don't include labor, just the supplies: how much of each product, and the name of the products.


just cause its 25 years old dont mean nothing. hell the car is all plastic so no rust! if his car was badly damaged then he would need to get new skins and filler. also 400$ is an easy price! like i said its not a huge car so one gallon is plenty to do this car unless you want 100 coats of blaaa.
now if your going with exotic colors it will run you alot more. ive seen paint that costs 700$ a quart but its all in what your wallet can do for you and if you have the money for that stuff im pretty sure you would have a pro do it anyhow. The paint i use cost anywhere from 100-250$ a gallon and thats good stuff.


rmbrown09 (rbrown5@zagmail.gonzaga.edu) MSG #24, 03-25-2011 02:43 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by Ruffy:


is it aluminum? if so take it off and use light sand paper over it like 300 grit and get yourself some black spray paint in a can. it will look like new. of yea primer it first with dark gray


Well... My GT is red. and aluminum? i dunno it's the one that came with lol


Ruffy MSG #25, 03-25-2011 02:47 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by rmbrown09:


Well... My GT is red. and aluminum? i dunno it's the one that came with lol


sorry i was thinking of the spoiler. many spoilers are made of aluminum and are an easy fix to sand and paint. not sure what the fiero one is made out of because i never had an original spoiler.


Bloozberry MSG #26, 03-25-2011 03:33 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by Ruffy:

just cause its 25 years old dont mean nothing. hell the car is all plastic so no rust! Also 400$ is an easy price! The paint i use cost anywhere from 100-250$ a gallon and thats good stuff.


There's a lot more to painting a car than paint, and the age of the underlying paint means everything. The OP was looking for the price of a good paint job so that means the 25 year old paint has got to come off. It's oxidized to the point where it's white.

So discounting the cost of the sanding media, tack pads, fillers, solvents, tape, primers, weatherstrip and trim clips that will break when you take them off, etc, etc, then all the overhead equipment needed to paint, like a gun, compressor, air dryer and filter for the compressed air etc etc, let's just assume the OP had all of this stuff on hand and still didn't know enough about painting cars that he decided to come here for advice. All he needed was just the paint and the clearcoat. What brand and quantity of color and clear coat would he need, and where would he buy it so that it would cost under $400? Just a simple question.


topcat (tconey01@att.net) MSG #27, 03-25-2011 04:38 PM
      I've used several discount shops - Maaco where I paid about 500 bucks for my first Fiero. It looked okay for about two years. The next Fiero was painted by a friend that had a body shop. He charged me the cost of paint - about 450.00. That one lasted about three years. I finally decided to bite the bullet and pay for a quality job. The paint looks great, but after about four years, it is starting to flake off in a few places (but it is still nice and shiney) - and the shop that painted it and gave a life time guarantee is no longer in business.


So the next time I get it painted, it will be with a well established shop and I anticipate spending about 5 grand. I will probably get her paintd this winter or early next year.


Tha Driver MSG #28, 03-25-2011 04:58 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by topcat:

I've used several discount shops - Maaco where I paid about 500 bucks for my first Fiero. It looked okay for about two years. The next Fiero was painted by a friend that had a body shop. He charged me the cost of paint - about 450.00. That one lasted about three years. I finally decided to bite the bullet and pay for a quality job. The paint looks great, but after about four years, it is starting to flake off in a few places (but it is still nice and shiney) - and the shop that painted it and gave a life time guarantee is no longer in business.


So the next time I get it painted, it will be with a well established shop and I anticipate spending about 5 grand. I will probably get her paintd this winter or early next year.


Bring it to me & I'll do it right cheaper than any other shop (less than 5 grand). Which includes stripping all the old paint off - which is the reason the second/third job is peeling now (improper prep).

 
quote
Originally posted by Bloozberry:
What brand and quantity of color and clear coat would he need, and where would he buy it so that it would cost under $400? Just a simple question.

Dupont Nason is what I use on "cheap" paintjobs for street cars like on my BMW.
http://angelonearth.net/BMW.html
Base coat will be around $120 (depending on color) & clear is about $150 with catalyst. Add basemaker reducer for the basecoat (I think it's about $70), & you come in under the $400 he's talking about spending - just for paint. Of course, I like to prime it with PPG epoxy primer, & that adds about $150 to the cost of a daily driver paintjob. It's the cheapest quality paint I've found, & will last decades if all the prep is done right.
~ Paul
aka "Tha Driver"

[This message has been edited by Tha Driver (edited 03-25-2011).]

JazzMan (jazzman@fierocentral.com) MSG #29, 03-25-2011 05:09 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by rmbrown09:


Well... My GT is red. and aluminum? i dunno it's the one that came with lol


By fin you mean what we generally refer to as the wing, or spoiler. If you rub a white paper towel on it and it comes off white and not the body color it means that just the clearcoat has failed. If body color comes off then the basecoat is compromised and you'll need new paint. I generally do not recommend painting with a spray can unless you decide in advance that you'll never get a regular automotive paint job for the car. Once you start rattle-canning about the only way back is to sand it all off and start over.

Your options are varied. You can repaint single stage, where the paint you spray on is the final paint and shine, or you can repaint the factory way with a base color coat topped by a clear coat. This is commonly referred to as two-stage. If your basecoat is intact you could probably just sand the oxidized clear off and just put new clear on, though it probably won't look as good as new. Also, getting a color match will e challenging since each car fades differently over time due to variations in storage and usage environments.

Also, you can check with your local automotive paint supplier such as Sherwin Williams to see if they can do a paint pack for you, it's a special type of spray can that has a catalyst in a capsule inside the can. You bang the can on a hard surface to break the capsule then shake to mix. Once mixed you paint your part and toss the can when you're done. They should be able to mix whatever paint you want and put it in the can for you. If you take them a buffed and polished headlight door they can use a machine to get a match off of it, that's likely the closest you'll be able to get for the wing.

BTW, I generally recommend doing a two-stage paint job for durability reasons.


Ruffy MSG #30, 03-25-2011 05:35 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by Bloozberry:


:bla: There's a lot more to painting a car than paint, and the age of the underlying paint means everything. The OP was looking for the price of a good paint job so that means the 25 year old paint has got to come off. It's oxidized to the point where it's white.

So discounting the cost of the sanding media, tack pads, fillers, solvents, tape, primers, weatherstrip and trim clips that will break when you take them off, etc, etc, then all the overhead equipment needed to paint, like a gun, compressor, air dryer and filter for the compressed air etc etc, let's just assume the OP had all of this stuff on hand and still didn't know enough about painting cars that he decided to come here for advice. All he needed was just the paint and the clearcoat. What brand and quantity of color and clear coat would he need, and where would he buy it so that it would cost under $400? Just a simple question.


really now. not here to get into a pissing battle here but you wanted name brand stuff well here it is

3M masking tape: 4 rolls= 7$
Duplicolor Lacquer Thinner1 gallon=16$
Masking Paper=10$
Cotton Towels=10$
Bondo Lightweight Filler (1 qt.)=12$
Duplicolor Clear Coat 32 oz= 23$
Summit primer 1qt=20$
House of Kolor Designer Pearls base coat=86$
3M 11x9 400 grit wet or dry (10 sheets)=9$
3M 11x9 500 grit wet or dry (10 sheets)=9$
3M 6 inch sanding disc's 320 grit (40 count)=19$
WAX/GREASE REMOVER=10$
clips and fasteners=20$
Total 251$ for most of all his needs. i maybe forgetting something but im sure the cost of the few things isnt 4000$ :rolleyes:

now if your talking about the tools he needs ill keep this simple because i dont think hes going to do this but if he was i dont think he would be painting 2 cars a day. so simple it is.

2 HP, 8 Gallon, 125 PSI Portable Air Compressor=120$
6" Dual Action Air Sander=25$
20 Oz. High Volume Low Pressure Gravity Feed Spray Gun=15$
total 411$ and most of that stuff is over kill.



Bloozberry MSG #31, 03-25-2011 05:40 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by Tha Driver:

Dupont Nason is what I use on "cheap" paintjobs for street cars like on my BMW. Base coat will be around $120 (depending on color) & clear is about $150 with catalyst. Add basemaker reducer for the basecoat (I think it's about $70), & you come in under the $400 he's talking about spending - just for paint.


Great, so now let's add the taxes, shop supplies, equipment, and primer. And then we have a "cheap" paint job for, at the very least, $2000 if he does everything (and I mean everything) himself. This isn't what I believe the OP asked for, but neither is he stepping in to clarify what he wants. Lesson learned: everyone has a different opinion about what a "good paint job" is.


Bloozberry MSG #32, 03-25-2011 05:48 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by Ruffy:

Duplicolor Clear Coat 32 oz= 23$
Summit primer 1qt=20$
House of Kolor Designer Pearls base coat=86$

Total 251$ for most of all his needs.

2 HP, 8 Gallon, 125 PSI Portable Air Compressor=120$
6" Dual Action Air Sander=25$
20 Oz. High Volume Low Pressure Gravity Feed Spray Gun=15$
total 411$ and most of that stuff is over kill.



I'll repeat: you've got to be kidding. A quart of primer? A 2HP compressor feeding an HVLP gun? A $15 gun? Like I said, everybody has their own interpretation of quality, and in this case, reality.


Ruffy MSG #33, 03-25-2011 05:59 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by Bloozberry:


I'll repeat: you've got to be kidding. A quart of primer? A 2HP compressor feeding an HVLP gun? A $15 gun? Like I said, everybody has their own interpretation of quality, and in this case, reality.


i said in the post if you didnt read it all. i dont think hes going to become a pro and he dont need a 600$ snap on air gun, he dont need a 50 gallon air comp. hell ive used 15$ guns before and it came out extremely nice. its not the gun its the painter. and thats a 8 gallon air comp! thats more then enough for him to start with. not only that but hes not painting a bus for gods sake lol. i dont know about about you but here in the states a gallon of good named paint isnt 2000$.i really really hate to argue this but ive been around this stuff sense i was 15 years old and seen thousands of automobiles of all sizes get painted. maybe paint in canada cost more then the states who knows?
EDIT:
example
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zu-gFvemapQ
quality of video sucks but this is my 100$ paint job! jet black with fine chrome metal flake. this was taken right after i put the body on. a week later i added more mods to the bike and i have 5 trophies for best in show 1st place. i have 3 best paint 1st places. FOR 100$

[This message has been edited by Ruffy (edited 03-25-2011).]

Tha Driver MSG #34, 03-25-2011 08:22 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by Ruffy:

Duplicolor Clear Coat 32 oz



I'm sorry: where's that smilie that has the guy rolling on the floor laughing his ass off & slapping the ground?
A quart of clear (lacquer no less) to paint a Fiero - yeah right.
& the rest of the list is BS too.
EDIT: the OP said a GOOD paintjob not a lacquer screw-up.

[This message has been edited by Tha Driver (edited 03-25-2011).]

Tha Driver MSG #35, 03-25-2011 08:31 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by Bloozberry:


Great, so now let's add the taxes, shop supplies, equipment, and primer. And then we have a "cheap" paint job for, at the very least, $2000 if he does everything (and I mean everything) himself. This isn't what I believe the OP asked for, but neither is he stepping in to clarify what he wants. Lesson learned: everyone has a different opinion about what a "good paint job" is.


That (price estimates I quoted) includes taxes, & I added the primer in my post too. It does not include sandpaper & all other materials which WILL add up. You can't add shop equipment into the cost of a good paintjob. You asked about how to buy the PAINT for around $400 so I showed how. The OP wanted the price on a GOOD paintjob & that's the LEAST you'll spend for paint IMO on a GOOD paintjob. You can get better paint for $300 (PPG) to $600 (Sikkens) more.
I think my BMW has a GOOD paintjob on it.
http://angelonearth.net/BMW.html
~ Paul
aka "Tha Driver"

Which do you most can't the least?
What I most can't the least, would be do not a bad job but always a good.


sricka01 MSG #36, 03-25-2011 11:58 PM
      I was quoted 3500-4000 for a panel off paint job with stock paint.



hypo327 (mickey_327@verizon.net) MSG #37, 03-26-2011 01:56 AM
      You guys ought to check out Steve Enerson's Forum thread, painting his Lambo orange '87 in his driveway. It's got to be one of the most beautiful paint jobs on a Fiero! He calls it his "Tangerine Beauty" as I recall.

Firefox MSG #38, 03-26-2011 09:52 AM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by Ruffy:


i said in the post if you didnt read it all. i dont think hes going to become a pro and he dont need a 600$ snap on air gun, he dont need a 50 gallon air comp. hell ive used 15$ guns before and it came out extremely nice. its not the gun its the painter. and thats a 8 gallon air comp! thats more then enough for him to start with. not only that but hes not painting a bus for gods sake lol. i dont know about about you but here in the states a gallon of good named paint isnt 2000$.i really really hate to argue this but ive been around this stuff sense i was 15 years old and seen thousands of automobiles of all sizes get painted. maybe paint in canada cost more then the states who knows?
EDIT:
example
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zu-gFvemapQ
quality of video sucks but this is my 100$ paint job! jet black with fine chrome metal flake. this was taken right after i put the body on. a week later i added more mods to the bike and i have 5 trophies for best in show 1st place. i have 3 best paint 1st places. FOR 100$



Since you've been around this since you were 15 you should also know that he's not painting a bike....it's a little bit bigger requiring a bit more paint, a bit more air and a bit more money for everything else. It's not a bus but it's not a bike, either. Spraying bike plastic is pretty easy and doesn't take much in the way of spray skill....painting a car does. Spray patterns are demanding.....paint flow....air flow....paint mixture....and so much more. It's a different class of painting and you apparently think that just because you can spray a bike for $100 you can do a whole car in it, too. Nope......when I spray bike parts, yeah....I can probably do it with $100 for the materials using my nice expensive paint ( I use PPG Deltron ) and give it a showroom quality finish. You're spending $100 for a lacquer clear job? Shame on you....


There are cheaper Harbor Freight guns that can do a decent job. They are just not going to hold up to for the long haul and perform continuously. But the air compressor needs to have a bit of power behind it. HVLP guns use a lot of air and need a larger tank and heavier duty pump to keep up. You little 2 hp unit isn't going to do the trick. It'll run forever, lag behind the air usage, generate more moisture in the compressed air itself and just not do the job. So, it's the painter and it's the equipment that the painter uses.

So since you've been around this stuff since you were 15 does that mean that those of us that have been around a long time and do this professionally don't know what we are talking about? I've been painting for over 30 years and have a couple of cars under my belt. Is my advise bad? How about these other guys? We have professional painters, guys that have painted their cars themselves and guys that had their cars painted by others ( after doing their own research ). Are they wrong? Just because you got trophys with your $100 bike job doesn't mean that you will get that kind of job on a car.

Have you ever painted a car? I didn't see where you had painted anything other than that bike. If you have painted a car, could we see a pic or two? How much did that paint job cost you? Maybe you could compare your car paint prices with what has been suggested here. I usually spend upwards of $1000 for materials depending on the color cost and I seem to be right in line with the others for total paint cost including labor......if not a bit less. Could you please offer us your background on car painting?

Mark



TXGOOD MSG #39, 03-26-2011 10:00 AM
      I think some people who pay 5k for a paint job have to justify to themselves that it was worth it and part of that is saying that you can`t get a quality job for much less than that.

IIKool (thewhitebus@hotmail.com) MSG #40, 03-26-2011 02:45 PM
      I think all of these 4 to 6 thousands dollars paint jobs, people are forgetting that there are a lot of people outta work and that puts a hurting on these paint and body shop. Maybe if and when the economy goes again then you might be able to get those figures. But until then maybe half of those figures

sporlan MSG #41, 03-26-2011 04:06 PM
      I am getting ready for paint also. I was quoted $7500 to take panels, glass and strip old paint off. (done right) The price was dropped to just over 4K doing Soda Blasting. I believe I will go that route. You have to use a little lower pressure with the Fiero panels but well worth it.


Bloozberry MSG #42, 03-26-2011 04:58 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by TXGOOD:

I think some people who pay 5k for a paint job have to justify to themselves that it was worth it and part of that is saying that you can`t get a quality job for much less than that.


... and then again, I've seen people on this very forum say they used a household paint roller to paint their Fiero and thought that it turned out just fine. This isn't like the story of "The Emperor's Clothes" as you suggest, there is a very real and tangible difference that needs no explaining when you sit a car with a $5000 prep and paint job next to one with a $400, $1000, or $2000 job. If there wasn't, then the high end shops would've disappeared long ago.


Firefox MSG #43, 03-26-2011 05:02 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by IIKool:

I think all of these 4 to 6 thousands dollars paint jobs, people are forgetting that there are a lot of people outta work and that puts a hurting on these paint and body shop. Maybe if and when the economy goes again then you might be able to get those figures. But until then maybe half of those figures



You will get some price variation because of the economy but not too much. It depends on the painter. Painting a Fiero the proper way is a lot of work and I as a painter will look for easier work than a Fiero if I'm looking to cut my prices for paint work. Our cars are not scuff and spray cars. We need to take them apart more than other cars. They are smaller but they still take more time to prep. I'd rather paint my ' 86 Cutlass Supreme than my Fiero. On top of all that, most of our owners expect top-end results for middle or low-end costs. You want a paint job for $100? Fine. I'll stop at Home Depot and buy a nice new paint roller for your car. Don't want orange peel? Ok...I'll make sure it's a smooth texture. It'll be done pretty quick, too. Drop it off Friday after work and I'll have it ready to pick up by Saturday noon. Just don't look at it in bright light ( or any light for that matter ).

Quality painters don't cut corners and don't cut prices much. The economy is tight but that also means that our personal budgets are tight, too. You actually insult a professional painter when you haggle too much. I'll work with somebody on price but you are going to be doing some of the work for that price reduction. My time is valuable and so are my skills. I pay overhead where I paint....it's called my mortgage. I have electrical costs, tool costs, paint costs, fuel costs. These costs are not negotiable. Why is my time negotiable? For a Fiero? All the work that is involved? I'd rather do scratch touch-ups on Malibus and Cobalts. I make a lot more money for the time I spend.

I'm not going to give away my services. The people that are getting 4-6k paint jobs have something special and are treating it as such.

Mark


TXGOOD MSG #44, 03-26-2011 06:42 PM
      I know that taking parts off of a car to paint is a lot of work and so is prep and I don`t want to insult anyone because I don`t know a lot about it.
I guess I`m just wondering about this scenario.
Say someone brings you a car on a trailer and it has basically a shell.
What does an actual spray job on that type of scenario cost compared to actually having to take all of the bumper, emblems and various other accessories off just to get it ready to paint?
I know that you more than likely can`t get a very good job rolling paint on, and it`s been a many number of years since I have painted a complete car, but the last project I did, I found fairly easy to use a color/clear coat system and although I didn`t spend a lot of time color sanding, it was getting there and with a little more buffing it would have been very smooth and shiny.

Oh, and Bloozberry I would almost bet a good number of high end shops live on collision repair that insurance companies pay for, at least around here they do, unless they only do custom work, which I`m pretty sure there isn`t a lot here.

[This message has been edited by TXGOOD (edited 03-26-2011).]

Bloozberry MSG #45, 03-26-2011 07:55 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by TXGOOD:

Oh, and Bloozberry I would almost bet a good number of high end shops live on collision repair that insurance companies pay for, at least around here they do, unless they only do custom work, which I`m pretty sure there isn`t a lot here.




This is true.


rogergarrison (fastandred@hotmail.com) MSG #46, 03-27-2011 09:51 AM
      I amost always can do a complete 2-3 color coat paint job on an average smaller car like a Corvette or Porsche with 1 quart of basecoat color...unless its a low coverage color. I did my Sebring in Corvette Sunburst Orange that didnt cover worth a crap, so it took 4-5 coats. Also since it was a color change from silver I had to do the jams and underhood/trunk so it took 2 quarts for whole job. Also covered that basecoat with 3 coats of clear (1 quart) so it could be color sanded and buffed. I used R&M/BASF and total cost of paint material was $180. Looks better than new OEM. Took me 2 eight hour days. I painted my own Cessna airplane with 2 gallons of single stage. My Coronet was a low coverage color (light yellow) too, its huge, and with jams and all it took 3 quarts of base and 2 clear, also color sanded and buffed.

Anyone that dont believe me is welcome to bring their already prepped car here and have me shoot it for them. Except for some special colors you will pay for 1 quart of color/ w reducer and 1 quart of clear/ hardener at my shop cost .... plus labor cost of a few hours. You color sand and buff it if you want....I dont anymore.

[This message has been edited by rogergarrison (edited 03-27-2011).]

Bloozberry MSG #47, 03-27-2011 12:57 PM
      Well, if Roger says he can buy your car "good" paint for under $400 to paint your whole car, then I'll be the first to admit I was wrong about not being able to buy "even the paint for under $400". If I were the OP, or anyone else living near him, I'd jump on his offer. So that's $180 in materials, "plus labor cost of a few hours" (that couldn't possibly cost more than $400 - $180 = $220 right Roger?) When someone puts their money where their mouth is, then you've got to respect that.

Now, everybody has a different opinion on what a good paint job is, that can't be denied, however the devil in these kinds of deals is always in the details. For example, in my opinion a good paint job:

1. doesn't stop at the surfaces you see when it's all buttoned up. Not painting the door jams, door, hood, and trunk edges, fender tops under the hood etc isn't a good paint job. Anyone who's had a half-baked paint job in the past will tell you that's where the new paint will fail first, at the edge between the old and the new;

2. means that the buyer doesn't have to take corrective action on his own, like working dust, drips, overspray, or orange peel out of the finish;

3. will use a quality primer/surfacer over the old paint; and

4. will have a paint and labor warranty for a minimum of five years, (all the better shops have a lifetime warranty).

Furthermore, while I conceed that I was wrong about the cost of the actual paint being less than $400 (because Roger says he can do it for $180), I wouldn't expect anyone to think that's how much they should budget. Roger (understanding the business very well) has a few very important caveats in his offer regarding the level of prep to be done by you, "color sanding and buffing", choice of colors, quantities of paint, areas to be painted, and his lack of a mention of primer should be noted.

[This message has been edited by Bloozberry (edited 03-28-2011).]

rogergarrison (fastandred@hotmail.com) MSG #48, 03-28-2011 12:10 PM
      Yep, thats for me buying only the paint and reducer and I dont do any color sanding after. You prepsand, you primer, you mask. Im just spraying paint.

Paint jobs I did with my prep and my primer, I always guaranteed it as long as the original owner had it. Ive only had one or two comebacks for something minor since the 70s. All my past customers have always returned for more work, even to the point of their children even started bringing theirs. Trouble with that now is Im retired and not doing it anymore. Im only fixing friends fender benders and my own toys. Im going to do my Astro and thinking about the limo. My legs and back dont take to buffing anymore except for a panel or two.


bulldog85043 (dr.feelgood04@hotmail.com) MSG #49, 03-28-2011 02:23 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by rogergarrison:

Anyone that dont believe me is welcome to bring their already prepped car here and have me shoot it for them. Except for some special colors you will pay for 1 quart of color/ w reducer and 1 quart of clear/ hardener at my shop cost .... plus labor cost of a few hours. You color sand and buff it if you want....I dont anymore.



WA_H_H_H_H_H_H ! I wish I still lived in Ohio! Driving my SE to have Roger shoot it would kill the cost (


Francis T (rspiderii@aol.com) MSG #50, 03-28-2011 04:41 PM
      With over 210,000 miles on it -I asume you mean the drivetrain- are you sure you want to spend much on paint? Whears you're likely to need a lot of other costly things real soon; like an engine rebuild/or/swap, auto tans work or clutch, suspension work etc etc? Cheepest way to a good paint job is do all the perp work yourself.



Tha Driver MSG #51, 03-28-2011 04:51 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by Bloozberry:

Well, if Roger says he can buy your car "good" paint for under $400 to paint your whole car, then I'll be the first to admit I was wrong about not being able to buy "even the paint for under $400". If I were the OP, or anyone else living near him, I'd jump on his offer. So that's $180 in materials, "plus labor cost of a few hours" (that couldn't possibly cost more than $400 - $180 = $220 right Roger?) When someone puts their money where their mouth is, then you've got to respect that.

Well it's nice that you believe SOMEBODY...

 
quote
Originally posted by Bloozberry:

Now, everybody has a different opinion on what a good paint job is, that can't be denied, however the devil in these kinds of deals is always in the details. For example, in my opinion a good paint job:

1. doesn't stop at the surfaces you see when it's all buttoned up. Not painting the door jams, door, hood, and trunk edges, fender tops under the hood etc isn't a good paint job. Anyone who's had a half-baked paint job in the past will tell you that's where the new paint will fail first, at the edge between the old and the new;

2. means that the buyer doesn't have to take corrective action on his own, like working dust, drips, overspray, or orange peel out of the finish;

3. will use a quality primer/surfacer over the old paint; and

4. will have a paint and labor warranty for a minimum of five years, (all the better shops have a lifetime warranty).

Furthermore, while I conceed that I was wrong about the cost of the actual paint being less than $400 (because Roger says he can do it for $180), I wouldn't expect anyone to think that's how much they should budget. Roger (understanding the business very well) has a few very important caveats in his offer regarding the level of prep to be done by you, "color sanding and buffing", choice of colors, quantities of paint, areas to be painted, and his lack of a mention of primer should be noted.



(3) I use PPG epoxy (DP) primer & THERE IS NOTHING AS GOOD AS IT for adhesion, sealing, & just generally giving you a good solid base to shoot paint over.
~ Paul
aka "Tha Driver"


Tha Driver MSG #52, 03-28-2011 04:52 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by bulldog85043:


WA_H_H_H_H_H_H ! I wish I still lived in Ohio! Driving my SE to have Roger shoot it would kill the cost (

You do realize that shooting the paint is the EASIEST part of the whole process - right?
~ Paul
aka "Tha Driver"


JazzMan (jazzman@fierocentral.com) MSG #53, 03-28-2011 06:19 PM
      I used some DP40 when I did my Phoenix, it was a good base over the bare metal after I stripped all the completely failed paint off. I used Kirker epoxy over some parts of my Formula mainly as a sealer coat, on the hood and headlight doors. I topped it off with catalyzed filler primer (urethane) which I blocked with 400 wet, then base and clear coat. Looking back, I'd probably have skipped the epoxy since though my clear was completely failed the base was still decent. The rest of the car I sanded with 220 DA, fill-primed, wetsanded 400, then base and clear coats. Spent as much time sanding as all the rest put together. Came out ok, actually pretty decent. Some parts I got full gloss with no OP, some had a little OP but I'll colorsand and buff that out.

Bloozberry MSG #54, 03-28-2011 06:36 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by Tha Driver:

Well it's nice that you believe SOMEBODY...



Ha! After I shut my computer off for the night I remembered you too had come up with a paint-only option for under $400. Whoops! I debated firing the computer back up again and editing my post but thought I'd have time before you looked at the thread in the morning. Well that didn't happen. I trust you too there Tha Driver. Feel better?


Tha Driver MSG #55, 03-28-2011 10:08 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by Bloozberry:


Ha! After I shut my computer off for the night I remembered you too had come up with a paint-only option for under $400. Whoops! I debated firing the computer back up again and editing my post but thought I'd have time before you looked at the thread in the morning. Well that didn't happen. I trust you too there Tha Driver. Feel better?


Just a little bit.
I usually get very little respect here so it didn't surprise me...
For those that don't already know, I've been doing paint work since I was 12, rebuilt my first total at 14, & did my first overall paintjob at 16 - back in 1969.
~ Paul
aka "Tha Driver"
EDIT: But of course that's not exactly what you said after I posted that info... http://www.fiero.nl/forum/F...HTML/115098.html#p30

[This message has been edited by Tha Driver (edited 03-28-2011).]

rmbrown09 (rbrown5@zagmail.gonzaga.edu) MSG #56, 03-28-2011 11:19 PM
      i feel like i started WWIII

Tha Driver MSG #57, 03-29-2011 01:01 AM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by rmbrown09:

i feel like i started WWIII


Yeah, when you post paint questions here you always get folks that don't have any real experience trying to tell you how you can do a perfect paintjob in two days for $100 (or something like that).
But I think you can weed out the real advice if you try.
Actually I've noticed no matter what the question you always get someone that doesn't know what he's talking about...
~ Paul
aka "Tha Driver"


Kento (kento@triad.rr.com) MSG #58, 03-29-2011 07:27 AM
      I am painting my 88 Formula. Right now I have 2 quarts of base and 2 quarts of primer. I am also in the autobody class at the local Technical Collage. I am getting a discount on materials and get to use the paint booth and equipment. Right now I am at just under $300 for materials and supplies. I may have to spend another $50 before it is done. I will be shooting 2 coats of base and 2 or 3 coats of clear on her. Hope to have her done in several weeks. I have found out that the Prep work is the biggest pain in the a$$ and Roger and all you others that paint Professionally, Hats off to you and I will stick to my Powder Coating business Now I know I will have issues when done but I feel it will look 1000x better then macco.

Joe



rogergarrison (fastandred@hotmail.com) MSG #59, 03-29-2011 08:01 AM
      I started myself in 1962 or so. My first project was designing and making a car from scratch for the now long defunct annual General Motors Styling Contest.

I entirely agree that spraying the paint is the easiest part...if you know what your doing. My point if you read it was not in any skills, but the cost of the materials. I dont believe is wasting money on overpriced materials that arent any better than a lot of others. I also dont buy $200 jeans. ....$15 ones from KMart last me years as does their $15 shoes. I havent bought any high priced PPG stuff for 25 years.


Firefox MSG #60, 03-29-2011 10:04 AM
      Am I allowed to participate?

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #61, 03-29-2011 10:10 AM
      [QUOTE]Originally posted by fierosound:

$50 to $10,000 - How good do you want it to be?

this is so true it all depends on what you think is good


JazzMan (jazzman@fierocentral.com) MSG #62, 03-29-2011 10:15 AM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by rmbrown09:

i feel like i started WWIII


It's not your fault. The skills necessary to disagree with someone without being hostile and adversarial about it have become a long-lost art that few practice at nowadays. I wouldn't worry to much about it.


bulldog85043 (dr.feelgood04@hotmail.com) MSG #63, 03-29-2011 03:58 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by Tha Driver:

You do realize that shooting the paint is the EASIEST part of the whole process - right?
~ Paul
aka "Tha Driver"


Yeah, but, he can get the paint cheaper than I can AND unfortunately my step-dad passed before I could learn how to shoot 'real' paint. I can put a primer layer down and prep it for the final shooting but I never really had a chance to learn how to mix and shoot paint like he did.

[This message has been edited by bulldog85043 (edited 03-29-2011).]

bulldog85043 (dr.feelgood04@hotmail.com) MSG #64, 03-29-2011 04:07 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by rmbrown09:

i feel like i started WWIII


I have found that both ThaDriver and RogerGarrison BOTH are very passionate about their crraft and have excellent experience plus advice when it comes to the realm of painting. I have read their advice for a while and I'm hoping that (real soon here) I can get my compressor fixed so I can re-shoot the faded areas on my SE.

If you want to see how passionate they can really get, just do a search on paint. Their names will eventually come up and "it's on".


rogergarrison (fastandred@hotmail.com) MSG #65, 03-29-2011 06:44 PM
      You can teach yourself how to paint fairly easy. Just get some scrap body panels and go at it. Most paints now require specific mixing so you cant mess it up. You just play with air pressure and fan control and do it till you can do it right. The trick is to get overlap of strokes, and how wet you can get it without running. You have to get it wet to keep from getting dull 'dry' areas. Of course, it can be sanded and buffed out if you dont get it perfect. There is just a sweet spot you have to find for yourself that no training or textbook stuff will ever teach you. not wet enough and you get rough, dull spots, too wet and it slides down the side into a puddle on the floor. Practice makes perfect. Start out with panels laying fairly flat on a sawhorse or bench, then try panels hanging down vertical. I taught myself how to spray paint by spraying LOTS of primer, then watching someone spray color.

[This message has been edited by rogergarrison (edited 03-29-2011).]

bulldog85043 (dr.feelgood04@hotmail.com) MSG #66, 03-30-2011 01:23 AM
      Thanks Roger. I have to picj up the part for my compressor this week-end so I can try my hand at shooting next week-end. I plan on stopping by one of the local bofdy shops to pick up a couple of thier junk panels to paint on.

Left you a +


fierosound (fierosound2@shaw.ca) MSG #67, 03-30-2011 09:16 AM
      Had a friend go through this last year.

He needed his hood and nose painted. Too cheap to pay to get it done at a reputable shop, and knows what he'll get from the low-priced shop that painted the whole car years ago (lots of little fixes to the paint afterwards). He figured he could do a better job himself.

By the time he bought the all the prep supplies, paint, paint gun etc. he was only about $200 under what the reputable shop would have done it for - not to mention the hours and hours of work spent on it. He found out it's not so easy.

He's already painted it TWICE now - and still isn't 100% happy with his work.
He may be doing it over a THIRD time once summer gets here.




Bloozberry MSG #68, 03-30-2011 09:49 AM
      Bulldog, don't forget to add a quality filter and water vapor filter (dessicant) to your air line. Water vapor in the compressed air is a killer. Also, you should consider wetting the floor around the car to keep the dust levels down and the dried overspray on the floor from being blown around.

timgray (timgray.geo@yahoo.com) MSG #69, 03-30-2011 10:34 AM
      Never mind guys, he got us... You are right Ruffy. all us paint guys are trying to screw you. you can get a show quality paint job for $400.00 and a $15.00 Gun shoots as good as my $800.00 gun.

You got the secret, you can get a unbelieveable paint job for $400.00.. and no you dont need a paint hood or air extractor... you can paint it in the front yard.

Those of us that have shot paint and paid for it are required to take an oath to lie to others to help keep the price up. The custom airbrushing my bike has really only cost $12.00 to pay the local crack addict for his time with a couple of rattlecans.

Dang it, I let the secret out and the Painters Guild is going to come and break my legs.... Anyone know how to setup a fiero to be driven with hand controls?


JazzMan (jazzman@fierocentral.com) MSG #70, 03-30-2011 10:39 AM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by fierosound:
By the time he bought the all the prep supplies, paint, paint gun etc. he was only about $200 under what the reputable shop would have done it for - not to mention the hours and hours of work spent on it. He found out it's not so easy.


The advantage he has is he doesn't have to buy all the non-consumables again for the next paint job. My first paint job cost around $900 all tools and supplies included. My next paint job cost me less than $300, and I have enough clear and basecoat left that I could do a couple of panel repairs for less than $20 to cover sandpaper, guidecoat, paint filters, and mixing sticks.


JazzMan (jazzman@fierocentral.com) MSG #71, 03-30-2011 10:41 AM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by timgray:

Never mind guys, he got us... You are right Ruffy. all us paint guys are trying to screw you. you can get a show quality paint job for $400.00 and a $15.00 Gun shoots as good as my $800.00 gun.

You got the secret, you can get a unbelieveable paint job for $400.00.. and no you dont need a paint hood or air extractor... you can paint it in the front yard.

Those of us that have shot paint and paid for it are required to take an oath to lie to others to help keep the price up. The custom airbrushing my bike has really only cost $12.00 to pay the local crack addict for his time with a couple of rattlecans.

Dang it, I let the secret out and the Painters Guild is going to come and break my legs.... Anyone know how to setup a fiero to be driven with hand controls?


Incivility gets you nowhere...



rogergarrison (fastandred@hotmail.com) MSG #72, 03-30-2011 12:12 PM
      I already own everything to do any job. All I need to buy is the paint. I painted one of my Corvettes pearle white with red stripes and ghost flames for under $200. The next week I took a paint trophy at a Midwest Regional All Corvette Show.

fierosound (fierosound2@shaw.ca) MSG #73, 03-30-2011 02:07 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by JazzMan:

The advantage he has is he doesn't have to buy all the non-consumables again for the next paint job.



The "next paint job" will likely be doing his hood over again - maybe

But I see your point. He'll now have the tools (that he'll never use again).

[This message has been edited by fierosound (edited 03-30-2011).]

JazzMan (jazzman@fierocentral.com) MSG #74, 03-30-2011 03:02 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by fierosound:


The "next paint job" will likely be doing his hood over again - maybe

But I see your point. He'll now have the tools (that he'll never use again).



If he's like most people I know, tools drive project initiation as much as the other way around. I've already painted a second set of plastics for my bike, painted the first set last year, and will probably paint another set next year. I'm sure I'll be able to find lots of other places to use my newly acquired tools...


KraigG MSG #75, 04-25-2011 06:34 PM
      Now that I've got my car running, and pretty well, I must admit, it's now time to get it painted. I went and visited a friend today who owns a body shop, and has been doing this for about 25 years.

I got a quote of $1200, but I have to provide the paint, sealer, flex agents, and clear. I'll take some before and after pics. I just want something better than Maaco, but not a job that costs more than the car is worth. It is, after all, just a bone stock 84.

Wish me luck!


Steel MSG #76, 04-25-2011 06:40 PM
      I spent $4500 to paint my 2001 Camaro SS. I thought it seemed expensive but it was the lowest appraisal I'd gotten from multiple shops.

[This message has been edited by Steel (edited 04-25-2011).]

JazzMan (jazzman@fierocentral.com) MSG #77, 04-26-2011 10:05 AM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by KraigG:

Now that I've got my car running, and pretty well, I must admit, it's now time to get it painted. I went and visited a friend today who owns a body shop, and has been doing this for about 25 years.

I got a quote of $1200, but I have to provide the paint, sealer, flex agents, and clear. I'll take some before and after pics. I just want something better than Maaco, but not a job that costs more than the car is worth. It is, after all, just a bone stock 84.

Wish me luck!


No flex agents needed if you're using a quality catalyzed urethane paint, preferably a base/clear system. You also don't need sealer unless you're painting over someone else's mystery paint job. If it's the stock paint just sand down to good material, prime, block, and go. I've bought my paints from http://www.autobodytoolmart.com, the Kirker line, and have found them to be of pretty good quality for the price. ABTM will send you a nice color catalog with chips for free, just call their 800 number. The paints a little cantankerous to work with if the painter is a newbie, but an experienced painter can get outstanding results.


rogergarrison (fastandred@hotmail.com) MSG #78, 04-26-2011 05:15 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by Tha Driver:


I'm sorry: where's that smilie that has the guy rolling on the floor laughing his ass off & slapping the ground?
A quart of clear (lacquer no less) to paint a Fiero - yeah right.
& the rest of the list is BS too.
EDIT: the OP said a GOOD paintjob not a lacquer screw-up.

I just cant help myself when you make statements like this. Ive done a lot of early Corvettes that are NCRS certified cars. There done in lacquer because the owner and restoration society expect it. You are right though amount the amount. I can clear one with 1 quart of urathane, but lacquer takes a lot more. Duplicolor clear is also already reduced. I do use 2 quarts of unreduced clear on one (makes a gallon ready to spray) to do 5 or 6 coats on one for a show finish. So with Duplicolor clear you will need 4 quart cans at minimum. NCRS deducts lots of points and value for old ones NOT done in lacquer. However this is starting to be more acceptable because of the access to lacquer in most places now. Ive never had a 50s-early 60s owner want urathane basecoat except on one they drive a lot. For one thing the urathane shine on them just looks fake or wrong for a restored to mint car.



katatak MSG #79, 04-26-2011 05:37 PM
      For the OP:

I just had my 88 Formula painted by a reputable shop here in El Paso for 800.00. They took three weeks to do it - which I thought was a little much but I paid a few visits to the shop during the process and was very pleased with thier attention to detail. The original quote was for 700.00 but I added a few things and they found some damage from the PO. In the end, the car was painted factory red, base coat clear coat (which I understand red is some fo the most costly paint). I had the mirrors painted the same color as the body. The rockers and front and rear spoiler repainted, the inner head light trim painted, etc. They did a very nice job for the price and I am taking 2 other Fiero's to them in the next 2 months. Is it perfect - no - I'm sure that someone could find something wrong but bottom line is I am happy with it and that really is all that matters. Shop around and look at the work they do. Reasonble shps are out there.






Tha Driver MSG #80, 04-26-2011 05:55 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by Tha Driver:


I'm sorry: where's that smilie that has the guy rolling on the floor laughing his ass off & slapping the ground?
A quart of clear (lacquer no less) to paint a Fiero - yeah right.
& the rest of the list is BS too.
EDIT: the OP said a GOOD paintjob not a lacquer screw-up.



 
quote
Originally posted by rogergarrison:

I just cant help myself when you make statements like this. Ive done a lot of early Corvettes that are NCRS certified cars. There done in lacquer because the owner and restoration society expect it. You are right though amount the amount. I can clear one with 1 quart of urathane, but lacquer takes a lot more. Duplicolor clear is also already reduced. I do use 2 quarts of unreduced clear on one (makes a gallon ready to spray) to do 5 or 6 coats on one for a show finish. So with Duplicolor clear you will need 4 quart cans at minimum. NCRS deducts lots of points and value for old ones NOT done in lacquer. However this is starting to be more acceptable because of the access to lacquer in most places now. Ive never had a 50s-early 60s owner want urathane basecoat except on one they drive a lot. For one thing the urathane shine on them just looks fake or wrong for a restored to mint car.


That's what I was talking about: You put ONE quart of lacquer clear on a car & it's a screw-up. Nothing wrong with lacquer on an antique if it's done right & taken care of (requires a LOT more attention & care than urethane).
~ Paul
aka "Tha Driver"

[This message has been edited by Tha Driver (edited 04-26-2011).]

rogergarrison (fastandred@hotmail.com) MSG #81, 04-27-2011 11:58 AM
      Ill totally agree with all that. See, I just dont pick on you.

weloveour86se MSG #82, 06-06-2011 11:47 PM
      Im bumping this cause Momma ask me tonight this same very question! Lol