Project Genisis Lo Budget 3800SC
Topic started by: hercimer01, Date: 05-05-2011 01:13 AM
Original thread: http://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum3/HTML/000130.html


hercimer01 MSG #1, 05-05-2011 01:13 AM
      Well here it is. The start of something good. This is what I have so far.


86 GT 49K miles 4 speed (bad motor)






The donor, 1998 GTP 130K miles




The motor.


Fierox moumts, I have them this is his pic.

I like pics by the way, so be prepared for more.

What do you guys think?




fierogt27 (fierogt27@gmail.com) MSG #2, 05-05-2011 01:43 AM
      Well, whats going to make it low budget?

hercimer01 MSG #3, 05-05-2011 01:56 AM
      I was wondering the same thing. LOL

I have 300 at least into this.


hercimer01 MSG #4, 05-05-2011 02:01 AM
      Seriously though, I really am just going to go mild on the motor (gaskets only and maybe a pulley). The wiring harness i ca do my self and the trans 4t65EHD will be redone through bartering. My buddy used to work at Maaco so I bought a new spray gun today for him to use.

hercimer01 MSG #5, 05-12-2011 01:31 AM
      MS95744 Supercharger Gasket w/2 Yellow O-rings
MS98014T Aluminum Intake Manifold Gaskets
VS50465R Valve Cover Gaskets

This is what I'm going to buy tomorrow. Is there any thing else I should get for the engine? That is gasket wise?

My coupler seems to be good.

[This message has been edited by hercimer01 (edited 12-15-2011).]

darkhorizon MSG #6, 05-12-2011 08:09 PM
      Skip the oil pan gasket.. It wont fix the problem, the oil pan itself is the broken part. Alot of RTV on the old gasket works well enough.

In terms of the trans.. If it isnt broke dont fix it.. and if it is, get a junkyard trans.


1fatcat MSG #7, 05-12-2011 09:32 PM
      Get an oil pump pick up tube gasket and a tube of silicone sealer for the pan gasket. If you reuse the old one, make sure to clean ALL the oil off. Silicone sealer will not stick to oil. But as Darkhorizon said, you can reuse the pan gasket as long as ALL the oil is cleaned off (needs to be rediculously clean of oil). And silicone both sides of the new or used gasket. The pan has ripples in the sealing surface from the factory, and one side of the pan gasket does not have a high protruding seal, it's almost flush with the plastic frame. So you want to use a good sealer.

CarverToo (robcarver@wildblue.net) MSG #8, 05-12-2011 09:32 PM
      What's the issue regarding the oil pan?

Ah, I see. Thanks 1fatcat!

[This message has been edited by CarverToo (edited 05-12-2011).]

RotrexFiero MSG #9, 05-12-2011 09:41 PM
      Paid $500 for my 3800SC, did my own mounts, and a lot of other fabrication (exhaust, wiring, alt mount). That's keeping it on the cheap side. Aside from the engine, it's all the other little stuff like fuel lines, hoses, CA intake, and belts that adds up.

hercimer01 MSG #10, 05-13-2011 12:48 AM
      Thanks guys for all the input. I bought all the gaskets today before I was able to read this. I think I will return the oil pan gasket, but it comes with the pickup tube gasket. I wasn't able to find a part number at Autozone for the oil tube gasket, maybe I can find one at Napa.

I paid $119.00 plus tax. I did make them price match the LIM MS98014T to Rock Auto at 50.79. I paid list for every thing else. I could have gotten them to match everything else.

Oh, and I did get a tube of Permatex black silicone.

EDIT; I did return the oil pan gasket, I still need the oil pickup tube gasket P/N.

[This message has been edited by hercimer01 (edited 05-13-2011).]

hercimer01 MSG #11, 05-13-2011 12:58 AM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by RotrexFiero:

Paid $500 for my 3800SC, did my own mounts, and a lot of other fabrication (exhaust, wiring, alt mount). That's keeping it on the cheap side. Aside from the engine, it's all the other little stuff like fuel lines, hoses, CA intake, and belts that adds up.


I paid 500 for my GTP too. I got the 86 GT (the motor had a rod knock, 40K MI, go figure) and an 86 SE (running with no title) for $1300. I sold the 86 SE for $400 and took a set of good BFG radial TA's off it. So $900 for the gt with good tires and spotless interior.

[This message has been edited by hercimer01 (edited 05-13-2011).]

hercimer01 MSG #12, 05-13-2011 01:17 AM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by darkhorizon:


In terms of the trans.. If it isnt broke dont fix it.. and if it is, get a junkyard trans.


I have friend who has me RR transmissions so he can rebuild them in his garage. He wants me to rebuild it, $500 for parts and he will step me through the rebuild for one RR in exchange. I can work off the money, 200 for each RR. That's how I paid for the motor gaskets.

The tranny fluid was pitch black with 130K miles. Honestly, I want to take my chances with the trans as is, new fluid and filter. I drove it before i took it apart and it seemed fine. What do you guys think.


hercimer01 MSG #13, 05-13-2011 05:25 PM
      Its like Christmas!


I returned the oil pan gasket and edited the prices.


darkhorizon MSG #14, 05-13-2011 05:28 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by hercimer01:


I have friend who has me RR transmissions so he can rebuild them in his garage. He wants me to rebuild it, $500 for parts and he will step me through the rebuild for one RR in exchange. I can work off the money, 200 for each RR. That's how I paid for the motor gaskets.

The tranny fluid was pitch black with 130K miles. Honestly, I want to take my chances with the trans as is, new fluid and filter. I drove it before i took it apart and it seemed fine. What do you guys think.


I would let it ride... I love these transmissions myself.


hercimer01 MSG #15, 05-13-2011 05:36 PM
      Thanks DarkHorizon. I think I will let it ride.

RCR (rcrabine@comcast.net) MSG #16, 05-14-2011 08:08 AM
      Looks like a nice project. Good luck.

Also, a note from my 7yo daughter: "You spelled Genesis wrong" - Genesis

Bob


hercimer01 MSG #17, 05-14-2011 01:33 PM
      Oops.

hercimer01 MSG #18, 05-14-2011 07:50 PM
      I removed more body panels today for paint.



hercimer01 MSG #19, 05-17-2011 02:06 AM
      I pulled the supercharger off today.







hercimer01 MSG #20, 05-17-2011 02:09 AM
      Should I have cleaned the grime off before I took it apart?

fierogt27 (fierogt27@gmail.com) MSG #21, 05-17-2011 02:52 AM
      well go ahead and take off the LIM and take the TB off the supercharger and clean everything separate. It will be a lot easier.

hercimer01 MSG #22, 05-17-2011 08:08 PM
      I pulled the LIM today. I has the original plastic gaskets.







fierogt27 (fierogt27@gmail.com) MSG #23, 05-18-2011 04:13 AM
      I know your trying to do low budget but go ahead and fork over the 50 dollars for the aluminum gasket. especially if your going to continue moding it

Edited because my stupid computer auto corrects

[This message has been edited by fierogt27 (edited 05-18-2011).]

hercimer01 MSG #24, 05-18-2011 04:23 AM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by hercimer01:

MS98014T Aluminum Intake Manifold Gaskets



These are aluminum right?

What do you mean by "molding it"


fierogt27 (fierogt27@gmail.com) MSG #25, 05-18-2011 06:17 PM
      yea man your good on that gasket

hercimer01 MSG #26, 05-21-2011 05:26 PM
      Installed the LIM today.






Niterrorz MSG #27, 05-22-2011 12:49 AM
      wow looks great your not to far from me id love to come check it out sometime.

hercimer01 MSG #28, 05-22-2011 01:57 AM
      Niterrorz, PM sent.

I painted the valve covers.



jasonfox MSG #29, 05-24-2011 01:00 PM
      I would have plugged those coolant passages to the TB in the LIM.

hercimer01 MSG #30, 05-29-2011 05:37 AM
      I was out of town this week. I was looking forward to getting back to work on the engine. I painted the throttle body and supercharger.





engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #31, 05-29-2011 08:25 AM
      i don't know about the low budget part but it looks like it will be a nice swap and nice car looks good

hercimer01 MSG #32, 05-29-2011 03:35 PM
      Lo Budget here means money spent to get it done. I dont plan to go go with elaborate setups, ie expensive. This thread is for a swapper to follow so they can plan on how much it will cost to get it done before they start.

The work i just did on the motor is the cost of gaskets and spray paint and elbow grease.


hercimer01 MSG #33, 06-01-2011 12:18 AM
      And the fuel rails painted.



[This message has been edited by hercimer01 (edited 06-01-2011).]

hercimer01 MSG #34, 06-01-2011 10:52 PM
      Is this the right Oil Filter adapter (98 GTP)? Its getting the 4T65EHD, The Fiero is an 86. Ill be using my fierox mounts.



Edit; It turns out the oil pressure switch on the 98 GTP is two pin. It needs to be replaced by one from an 88 2.8 or equivalent. (3 pin for the gauge.)

[This message has been edited by hercimer01 (edited 07-09-2011).]

hercimer01 MSG #35, 06-08-2011 12:41 AM
      I got the 2.8 engine off the cradle finally. The cradle is in really good shape for a northern Illinois car but still needs to be sand blasted. I found someone local who said he would do it cheap. I don't know how much yet, I will drop it off this weekend.

[This message has been edited by hercimer01 (edited 06-08-2011).]

hercimer01 MSG #36, 06-11-2011 05:13 PM
      Before


After, primer only($120)


hercimer01 MSG #37, 06-11-2011 05:14 PM
      My Prothane bushings are on the way.

darkhorizon MSG #38, 06-12-2011 07:47 AM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by hercimer01:

Is this the right Oil Filter adapter (98 GTP)? Its getting the 4T65EHD, The Fiero is an 86. Ill be using my fierox mounts.


Yep, that will work fine.


americasfuture2k MSG #39, 06-12-2011 12:07 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by hercimer01:

Thanks guys for all the input. I bought all the gaskets today before I was able to read this. I think I will return the oil pan gasket, but it comes with the pickup tube gasket. I wasn't able to find a part number at Autozone for the oil tube gasket, maybe I can find one at Napa.

I paid $119.00 plus tax. I did make them price match the LIM MS98014T to Rock Auto at 50.79. I paid list for every thing else. I could have gotten them to match everything else.

Oh, and I did get a tube of Permatex black silicone.

EDIT; I did return the oil pan gasket, I still need the oil pickup tube gasket P/N.



whoa i did not know you could get AZ to price match things you find on rock. i need to start enforcing this every time i go to AZ. maybe even oreillys, advance and napa will.


americasfuture2k MSG #40, 06-12-2011 12:42 PM
      looks good.

hercimer01 MSG #41, 06-13-2011 06:33 PM
      My poly bushings were ordered last tuesday, they received my money and sent me an order number. I have emailed them once on the status they replied and said thet were waitning to receive them, I guess red is a special order. Im getting irritated and cant get a hold of them. http://www.prothanesuspensionparts.com/ anyone delt with them before?

hercimer01 MSG #42, 06-13-2011 06:35 PM
      POR-15



hercimer01 MSG #43, 06-16-2011 05:39 PM
      Well. My new bushings have not come in yet. I cleaned up the oil pan Gasket. Next I will clean up the front of the motor and get the motor mounts painted. What are the sensors for on each side of the block under the heads?

[This message has been edited by hercimer01 (edited 06-16-2011).]

hercimer01 MSG #44, 06-16-2011 05:48 PM
     

JamesCurtis (jamie.curtis@outlook.com) MSG #45, 06-16-2011 09:29 PM
      those would be the knock sensors

hercimer01 MSG #46, 06-17-2011 03:15 AM
      Thanks.

hercimer01 MSG #47, 06-21-2011 02:00 AM
      A friend of mine GAVE this to me today! This is a $500 paint gun. 2 coats of urethane black and 3 coats of clear, shes gonna look sweet.



hercimer01 MSG #48, 06-21-2011 02:07 AM
      My cradle bushings finally shipped out this morning, so i started scrubbing the trans today, man what a mess. The lower control arm bushings are on back order for at least another week.

hercimer01 MSG #49, 06-22-2011 01:21 AM
      Still haven't gotten my cradle bushings, I got tired of waiting so i did this today. I still have to match drill the motor mounts to the frame. I decided to delete the EGR also.










sardonyx247 (sardonyx247@yahoo.com) MSG #50, 06-22-2011 02:38 AM
      Painting engine parts......who does that


Looks good, you will make all the V8 people out there jealous




hercimer01 MSG #51, 06-23-2011 07:34 PM
      I finally got my cradle bushings today, still waiting on the control arm bushings.






Here are some pics of the fieroX mounts.












1fatcat MSG #52, 06-23-2011 08:26 PM
      Those are the best pictures I've seen of 3800 mounts. Thanks! I never knew the front mount was only attached to the right side of the block.

hercimer01 MSG #53, 06-23-2011 09:01 PM
      No problem.

hercimer01 MSG #54, 06-24-2011 06:55 PM
      I did the Ignition coil this afternoon.







hercimer01 MSG #55, 06-24-2011 07:06 PM
      I am assuming this will clear the hinge and decklid. Right? Has anyone done this ?
Edit Or does it have to go on show side fromthe rear of the car.

[This message has been edited by hercimer01 (edited 06-24-2011).]

JamesCurtis (jamie.curtis@outlook.com) MSG #56, 06-24-2011 07:35 PM
      I do believe that will hit the hinge. It's not too difficult to relocate it by the battery tray or by the trunk.



RULOOKIN (duane.66@rogers.com) MSG #57, 06-24-2011 10:23 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by hercimer01:

I did the Ignition coil this afternoon.







for sure it will hit the part the trunk hindges mount to i had the same issue so i mover the ICM to the trunk wall you will have to extend the wireing as well trust me dont try to use stock ICM location i wont work it to tight and a ***** if you ever had to change a coil or modual,
I was even thinking of putting the coil pack inside the trunk pop a hole throught with a rubber gromet for your wireing and plug wires you will need aftermarket wires to do this ( longer ones)


sportcoupe (sportcoupe@comcast.net) MSG #58, 06-25-2011 07:52 AM
      He may have to loose the decklid spring but it shouldn't hit the hinge itself. The spring may have to go anyway since they sometimes hit the supercharger. Mine did.

I have my coil packs mounted it the same spot as the OP except I turned my on their side for more room and easier access for the connections. I'll get a picture later today.


hercimer01 MSG #59, 06-26-2011 12:51 AM
      Any help would be greatly appreciated.

MstangsBware (stephen_p38@yahoo.com) MSG #60, 06-26-2011 01:02 AM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by hercimer01:



Not going to work....You have to mount the coils else where...Best place is the battery tray and move the battery to the front.....


hercimer01 MSG #61, 06-26-2011 01:22 AM
      Any help would be greatly appreciated.

sportcoupe (sportcoupe@comcast.net) MSG #62, 06-26-2011 08:06 AM
      The coil pack does fit there if you turn it 90 deg. and remove the decklid springs (mine hit the SC anyway).



JumpStart (mw4jumpstart@embarqmail.com) MSG #63, 06-26-2011 08:41 AM
      Mine hit also but I did not want to move the battery up front so I mounted mine on the firewall, right behind the driver seat, between the mount for the decklid hinge and the hole in the firewall for the wiring harness going to the ECM.

Steve


Garrettpen98 (garrettpen@gmail.com) MSG #64, 06-26-2011 12:04 PM
      Oreillys will not price match online stores or Wal-Mart.

hercimer01 MSG #65, 06-26-2011 11:33 PM
      Thanks Guys. I think I will try to keep it in the same location, Trying to keep it "Lo Budget" here.

hercimer01 MSG #66, 06-26-2011 11:52 PM
      I mocked up my alternator and idler pulley today. The idler is the one from the super charger belt with a smaller diameter pulley from a 2000 Trailblazer. The dogbone bracket was milled down to the flat surface and the idler bracket will be about 5/8" thick welded to the dogbone bracket. The alternator will probably changed to a 1/4" aluminum plate with an extra mounting hole. Once I get the final product done i will post drawings with measurements. Im still revising so this could change.









Edit; Progress. Idler bracket done but still needs to welded. I will post drawings later.



[This message has been edited by hercimer01 (edited 06-27-2011).]

hercimer01 MSG #67, 06-27-2011 12:02 AM
      I borrowed a 3/4" NPT tap. I plan to put aluminum fittings in the two antifreeze lines. I dont know will they have to be straight or 90 degrees?



Edit; Sorry, I was being lazy. I went out and looked at it and they will have to be 90 degree elbows. I had to hog out the manifold hole. It looks like i will have to take the LIM back off to install it.



[This message has been edited by hercimer01 (edited 06-27-2011).]

Pete Matos MSG #68, 06-27-2011 01:33 AM
      Hercimer,
Just wanted to get in here and say what a nice job you are doing on your build. REALLY like that roll around engine cradle cart you made, care to share the specifics or better yet a drawing of it. I would love to have something like that when I start my build, I HATE crawling around on the floor to work on stuff and that looks like it puts things where you need them. Nice touch and again nice work. Having ridden in a 3800sc and having gotten to drive it I think it is safe to say you will NOT be disappointed. Makes for a very quick and responsive car. Too fun!! peace

Pete



hercimer01 MSG #69, 06-27-2011 02:02 AM
      Thank you Pete. The dolly is from Europe's site.I still havent put the cradle bolts int yet though.
http://www.fieros.eu/?type=diy&page=41&lng=en

Edit; This should help too.

[This message has been edited by hercimer01 (edited 06-27-2011).]

hercimer01 MSG #70, 06-29-2011 08:36 PM
      I think i got ahead of myself by taping out the heater hose attach holes. I can make the LIM work, but the timing cover will probably have to be replaced or welded. I have a friend who welds aluminum so im lucky there.

hercimer01 MSG #71, 06-29-2011 08:39 PM
      I FINALLY GOT MY LOWER CONTROL ARM BUSHINGS TODAY!!!!





hercimer01 MSG #72, 07-02-2011 07:56 PM
      Ok. Ive researched the cooling system. Ive come up with two alternatives. #1 with a modified T-stat housing = more money. Or #2 3800 stock T-stat housing. I will probably go with the stock housing for now. Later, after i get her up and running and more money, Ill start modding. Here's some diagrams i came up with help from darkhorizons drawings and bmwgurus help.

#1 with modded housing


#2 w/o modded housing


JamesCurtis (jamie.curtis@outlook.com) MSG #73, 07-02-2011 08:56 PM
     
 
quote
Thanks Guys. I think I will try to keep it in the same location, Trying to keep it "Lo Budget" here.


Relocating the ECM is a simple matter of extending wires, unless you're worried about more expensive spark plug cables, it doesn't affect your budget much at all. If you do try to keep it in the stock location and rotate it 90*, I'd like to see how it turns out! Keep up the good work!


hercimer01 MSG #74, 07-04-2011 07:29 PM
      It looks like i was right after all. Here are the fittings, the plug was 5.50 and the hose fitting was from a friends junk box. I will have to add a filler tee at the 3800 stock thermostat cover and and tee somewhere on the passenger side for a return of the heater system.

[This message has been edited by hercimer01 (edited 07-04-2011).]

darkhorizon MSG #75, 07-04-2011 10:03 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by 1fatcat:

Those are the best pictures I've seen of 3800 mounts. Thanks! I never knew the front mount was only attached to the right side of the block.


yea, and its crap. I would always suggest another style mount than that... at least something that offered some rotational resistance... that mount is doing nothing more than holding the motor off the ground...


hercimer01 MSG #76, 07-05-2011 01:05 AM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by darkhorizon:


yea, and its crap. I would always suggest another style mount than that... at least something that offered some rotational resistance... that mount is doing nothing more than holding the motor off the ground...


Is that not what the dogbone is for? These are a far cry better than west coast fieros in the gauge thickness of the steel and bolt grades.


darkhorizon MSG #77, 07-05-2011 05:50 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by hercimer01:


Is that not what the dogbone is for? These are a far cry better than west coast fieros in the gauge thickness of the steel and bolt grades.


The BEST dogbones I see are complicated... and get in the way of quite a few things. It is very hard to get a hold of any type of steel when making a dogbone in the factory fiero location.... When making lower mounts you have many options to go to factory holes using very limited amounts of fabrication and material..


hercimer01 MSG #78, 07-07-2011 03:29 AM
     

This is what I ended up going with.


The idler mount and and brace are off to get welded. Now its time for the harness. I unwrapped all the loom and tape from it today. I plugged all the connectors into the motor first and labeled them.

[This message has been edited by hercimer01 (edited 05-27-2012).]

phonedawgz (gofast@reddevilriver.com) MSG #79, 07-07-2011 04:37 PM
      Move the MAP and EVAP purge solenoid to a location on the transmission.

No need to leave those warts on the top of the engine.


hercimer01 MSG #80, 07-08-2011 08:02 AM
      The harness was just laying on there so i could strip it, thanks any way. I still have to plug the top vacuum hole. The vacuum fitting there is for the Brake Booster and EVAP, How is the Evap supposed to be plumed in? I know The code will be deleted from the ECM but I want it to operate. I plumbed the boost line on the LIM to the fuel regulator to the MAP and the BBV. Is the fuel regulator supposed to be in the Vac or Boost line?


Its hard to believe that the harness will fit into a little box when you are done.


EDIT to add this diagram of Mike Gonzales that I used to wire the car with.




[This message has been edited by hercimer01 (edited 05-07-2013).]

phonedawgz (gofast@reddevilriver.com) MSG #81, 07-08-2011 10:07 AM
      The evap purge solenoid goes inline between a constant vacuum source (between the supercharger and the throttle body) and the evap canister. The brake booster vacuum also goes on vacuum side.

The fuel pressure regulator needs to be on the boost side (LIM) of the supercharger, along with the MAP.

I might be stating this a second time but make sure both your CTS and your oil pressure sender connectors are 3 wire connectors. Middle pin of each goes to the gauge. Also if either the CTS or the oil pressure sending unit are not 3 pin devices they will have to be replaced.

[This message has been edited by phonedawgz (edited 07-08-2011).]

hercimer01 MSG #82, 07-08-2011 04:39 PM
      I have a three wire CTS. I have a two wire oil pressure switch on the oil filter adapter. What would be the P/N of the correct one?

phonedawgz (gofast@reddevilriver.com) MSG #83, 07-08-2011 05:34 PM
      Look up a replacement for an 88 Fiero 2.8 and that's it.

hercimer01 MSG #84, 07-08-2011 06:02 PM
      I have the old 2.8 that came out of the car, 86GT. Ill just use that one. Thanks!

Edit; I checked the P/N 86 vs 88, they are different, I will look up the specs to see if it will work. They are both 3 pin. The thread sizes are all the same for all three engines. Yup, Rock Auto shows the 86 one will work on the 88 engine.

88 fiero
Thread Size 1/4-18 NPTF Dryseal
Switch opens 2-7 PSI
80 PSI - 60-96 Ohms
40 PSI - 48-70 Ohms
8 PSI - 20-35 Ohms
Less than 2 PSI - 5 Ohms max

fits
BUICK (1987 - 1995)
CADILLAC (1998 - 2000)
CHEVROLET (1988 - 2001)
GMC (1988 - 2001)
ISUZU (1996 - 1998)
OLDSMOBILE (1987 - 1999)
PONTIAC (1987 - 1995)

Re-edit; The 86 one is too big for the low mount alternator but it will clear the axle. I guess i need to buy one, LKQ here I come.

[This message has been edited by hercimer01 (edited 07-09-2011).]

hercimer01 MSG #85, 07-09-2011 07:12 PM
      Found one at LKQ from an 88 4 cyl fiero. $12.00 with a passenger side mirror glass only and 2 windshield washer squirters.

[This message has been edited by hercimer01 (edited 07-09-2011).]

hercimer01 MSG #86, 07-11-2011 01:46 AM
      Got this much done this weekend.








hercimer01 MSG #87, 07-11-2011 02:00 AM
      What is up with this mystery connector (small round spliced into tranny connector with a gray wire? It does go to the PCM.



phonedawgz (gofast@reddevilriver.com) MSG #88, 07-11-2011 02:06 AM
      It looks like the AC Pressure Sensor. If so it connects gray to +5v, black to sensor ground and the red/black wire goes to the PCM.

The boost bypass valve usually gets deleted. I see yours is still on.

Many builders decide to locate the MAP and EVAP Purge valves on the transmission instead on top of the valve cover to keep the top of the engine cleaner. Where you locate them is personal choice of course.

[This message has been edited by phonedawgz (edited 07-11-2011).]

hercimer01 MSG #89, 07-11-2011 02:33 AM
      What are driveability issues with deleting the BBV? economy vs. performance.

Also my car is a 2.8 stick shift . There's an 88 tech 4 auto at the local pick apart. What parts will I need to get together. I heard my accelerator cable wont work. The four cylinder one will?


MstangsBware (stephen_p38@yahoo.com) MSG #90, 07-11-2011 09:29 AM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by hercimer01:

What are driveability issues with deleting the BBV? economy vs. performance.

Also my car is a 2.8 stick shift . There's an 88 tech 4 auto at the local pick apart. What parts will I need to get together. I heard my accelerator cable wont work. The four cylinder one will?


No driveability issue in deleting the BBV...Some say they have gottne better MPG with it still attached with vaccuum only..I have deleted it in all my swaps but the one that went to Cali...The V-6 cable works fine but the 4 banger is a direct fit...Buy it to re-sell as you can get $50 for it to someone looking for one as they are getting hard to come by...So you already have the DRV auto axle...if not you will need it......


hercimer01 MSG #91, 07-11-2011 12:18 PM
      I have two sets of Auto and Manual axles. The car is a stick so i will need a shifter and cables? what all parts are involved with swapping to a auto.


Thanks again Guys for your help. I helped do my Formula but this is the first on a 3800.



phonedawgz (gofast@reddevilriver.com) MSG #92, 07-11-2011 06:12 PM
      Looking at your picture it looks like the run to the TPS/MAF/IAC is close to the exhaust. I would think you would want it farther away. Maybe it's just down there because of how it's hanging and you planned to put it up higher once it's in the car.

On many stock 3800's GM put a 'heat shield" around the CTS. I would think you would want to keep all wires at least that far away from the exhaust if not further.



hercimer01 MSG #93, 07-11-2011 10:31 PM
      Yeah. Its hanging down I wasn't sure of the routing so I made It a little long. I wanted to keep mods possible in the future, Like the plate for the throttle body and possibly a different throttle body.

I scored the 4 cyl accelerator cable cheap. An auto shifter, auto shifter cable, a 4 cyl TV cable which is for sale now and a center console no cracks or distortions.


phonedawgz (gofast@reddevilriver.com) MSG #94, 07-11-2011 10:33 PM
      If you dump the BBV, you can route the wires back that way.

hercimer01 MSG #95, 07-11-2011 11:08 PM
      I'm leaning that way. But I want to read the book first on its function.

[This message has been edited by hercimer01 (edited 07-12-2011).]

hercimer01 MSG #96, 07-12-2011 12:26 AM
      I've read a lot of threads and everyone says the 87 88 4 banger throttle cable is a direct fit. mine has the extra bell-crank swage on it and it is an 88 cable. Before i go cutting anything i want to make sure it will work OK or that I am not destroying a cable that's worth more as is.



These are examples of how it was on the car it came from.
These are pics of the Indy Fiero #162.


[This message has been edited by hercimer01 (edited 07-17-2011).]

hercimer01 MSG #97, 07-12-2011 12:37 AM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by phonedawgz:

It looks like the AC Pressure Sensor. If so it connects gray to +5v, black to sensor ground and the red/black wire goes to the PCM.

The boost bypass valve usually gets deleted. I see yours is still on.

Many builders decide to locate the MAP and EVAP Purge valves on the transmission instead on top of the valve cover to keep the top of the engine cleaner. Where you locate them is personal choice of course.




Now you've got me rethinking the MAP and EVAP purge solenoid too.

[This message has been edited by hercimer01 (edited 07-15-2011).]

hercimer01 MSG #98, 07-12-2011 01:20 AM
      I put the Auto shifter in.




I want to leave the clutch pedal system in tact. Im thinking the car would be more versatile to future owners. However I have been toying with the idea of putting the muncie 4 speed in my 3.4 PR formula. What do you guys usually do?

[This message has been edited by hercimer01 (edited 07-12-2011).]

hercimer01 MSG #99, 07-12-2011 09:49 PM
      Bump

hercimer01 MSG #100, 07-15-2011 02:54 AM
      I stripped all the insulation and extra stuff out of the engine compartment today. I also got the tank out. It looks good inside no rust that I could tell.



hercimer01 MSG #101, 07-15-2011 03:44 AM
      The Bosch 69225 fuel pump is only rated up to 34 PSI.Edit; I went with the Airtex equivalent of the EP376.

[This message has been edited by hercimer01 (edited 02-20-2012).]

Ohiofierokid86 (1986fierokid@gmail.com) MSG #102, 07-15-2011 06:08 AM
      http://www.fiero.nl/forum/icons/icon10.gif

hercimer01 MSG #103, 07-16-2011 03:41 AM
      I need ;

S-10 brake booster upgrade. Still need as of 7/28/12

Outer dew wipes. Done
Air intake plumbing. Done
An exhaust system. On order. Done
86 Grand Am brake upgrade. Have new Grand Am calipers and rotors. Done (new brake lines too.)
Two rear toe links with tie rod ends. Re-threading the tie rod ends. I know now to smack the knuckle with a hammer, not the threads. Repaired threads and got new castle nuts.
A tranny cooler. Swapped in an auto radiator.
Trans cooler lines. Installed new lines going to the back.
An ECM tune. Received one of nosrac's. And did a CASE learn procedure on it.
Radiator over flow tank. Done.
The fuel pump, strainer, pigtail connector. DONE
Battery tray. welded in stock replacement.
Sound proofing mat. Have now. Put some in the rear fire wall.
Super charger idler. Bought new.
Belts. Done.

I have lots to trade with. Well maybe not lots.

A complete set of 88 calipers 79 K miles. I can rebuild them if desired. Yes I am licensed aircraft mechanic so i do know what im doing.
A set of 88 front hubs still in the knuckles 79K miles. Spin smooth.
A not so good armrest center console. Cracked where your elbow sits.
A rear tail wing, no stands, slightly warped up on ends.
86 ECM. Good 49K miles. SOLD
86 rear GT calipers. Traded for Grand Am cores.
98 GTP steering column. SOLD
86 4 speed muncie 49K miles with all the cables, shifter, cylinders and hydraulic line. In the mall. SOLD
4 speed console bezel. SOLD
An 88 4 cyl accelerator cable with the double swage. SOLD
86 ford taurus starter. SOLD

[This message has been edited by hercimer01 (edited 07-28-2012).]

hercimer01 MSG #104, 07-17-2011 04:30 PM
      I sold the8 88 throttle cable.

1fatcat MSG #105, 07-17-2011 05:52 PM
      I've got 2 fuel pumps. One from a 01 silverado 6.0, the other from a 98 blazer 4.3. I have not looked up the specs on them, but they both run high pressure (65psi I think). The pumps are good, they were replaced because of pin holes in the flex tube, which isn't used in the fiero application. Not sure if you want used or not...or how to ship a skinky used pump?

hercimer01 MSG #106, 07-17-2011 08:22 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by 1fatcat:

I've got 2 fuel pumps. One from a 01 silverado 6.0, the other from a 98 blazer 4.3. I have not looked up the specs on them, but they both run high pressure (65psi I think). The pumps are good, they were replaced because of pin holes in the flex tube, which isn't used in the fiero application. Not sure if you want used or not...or how to ship a skinky used pump?


Thanks, but i would really like to go new for the fuel pump. I don't want to have to get in there again or get stranded. Thanks again.


1fatcat MSG #107, 07-17-2011 08:34 PM
      Totally understandable. I didn't know where you stood with it given the title.

Jfrost MSG #108, 07-17-2011 09:17 PM
      Great looking build so far, keep up the good work!

Random question: a guy I work with down here in Normal is originally from the Rockford area and keeps telling me about a guy back home with a few Fieros down the street from him, not sure if thats you or not. His names Antonio Mendoza.


hercimer01 MSG #109, 07-17-2011 10:26 PM
      Thanks!
I keep hearing the same thing, a guy down the street has a few. My name is Allen Warren. I have a Las Vegas Fiero Club sticker on mine.

[This message has been edited by hercimer01 (edited 07-17-2011).]

Foxy Fiero13 MSG #110, 07-18-2011 07:00 PM
      motor is coming along well i should start building my motor soon my 2.8 isnt enough for me

hercimer01 MSG #111, 07-19-2011 12:00 AM
      ......

[This message has been edited by hercimer01 (edited 12-09-2017).]

hercimer01 MSG #112, 07-19-2011 12:06 AM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by Foxy Fiero13:

motor is coming along well i should start building my motor soon my 2.8 isnt enough for me


Thanks. Just be prepared, I'm beginning to see the cost of everything even with no mods. I think Lo budget actually refers to my wallet here. I've been laid off for a year now but working part time to make ends meet. I have two job prospects but they both are out of town. So far I have managed to keep afloat.


1fatcat MSG #113, 07-19-2011 09:32 AM
      That foam looks like it could burn or melt easily. You might want to cut a stip off and try to burn it, just to see how it reacts. Don't breath in any smoke, it could be toxic if it burns.

hercimer01 MSG #114, 07-21-2011 08:38 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by hercimer01:

I have decided to go with the Bosch 69225 fuel pump.


O.K. So no one caught this. That pump is great for a N/A 3800. I was at Napa today and we looked up this pump and it didn't seem right. I have read lots of bickering on the forum as to what pump to use and I am more confused now than when I started. So this is where i'm at.

Turn the ignition switch to the ON position. The fuel pump should run for two seconds. The pressure on the gauge should read 48–55 psi (333–376 kPa).

Start the engine and allow to idle. The fuel pressure should drop about 3–10 psi (21–69 kPa). The idle pressure may vary somewhat, depending on barometric pressure. Look for a big drop in fuel pressure, rather than a specific number.

As copied from a Chilton manual.

The Bosch is only rated at 34 PSI
The ACDelco EP376 is rated up to 80 PSI.
The Walbro 225 is for big horse power.

So the EP376 is what i need.

I think.

[This message has been edited by hercimer01 (edited 07-22-2011).]

nosrac MSG #115, 07-22-2011 04:23 AM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by hercimer01:


The Bosch is only rated at 34 PSI
The ACDelco EP376 is rated up to 80 PSI.
The Walbro 225 is for big horse power.

So the EP376 is what i need.

I think.




Yep, I have EP376


hercimer01 MSG #116, 07-22-2011 10:59 AM
      Thanks nosrac.

hercimer01 MSG #117, 07-24-2011 12:57 AM
      Well I bought the Airtex equivilant. Got a good price on it. I didn't know what strainer to get so I got the 86 gt one. P/N FS1. I hope its the right one.

1fatcat MSG #118, 07-24-2011 10:07 AM
      I'm not sure what the difference is with strainers? GM strainers are all so very similar to one another, I just don't know why they even have different ones? They all seem to have the same size "cup" that pushes onto the bottom of the pump. Just make sure it's fully seated (they push on hard sometimes) and that the strainer does not interfere with the float arm.

hercimer01 MSG #119, 07-24-2011 09:11 PM
      It worked fine. I still have to put a pigtail for a connector on it. Rock-Auto has one.

hercimer01 MSG #120, 08-03-2011 01:18 AM
      Just thought I would update here. I got hammered by life the last two weeks. My Dad had a stroke so i have been helping him a lot. fortunately it was mild and he just needs to get his plumbing cleaned out. Work slowed to a halt and the heat has just been unreal. I am ready for a test fit on the engine so i can finish the harness and do the cooling/heater lines. I think once I see the engine in the car I will get fired up again. Its also supposed to cool off.

Alex4mula (torres_a@hotmail.com) MSG #121, 08-03-2011 09:34 AM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by hercimer01:

Just thought I would update here. I got hammered by life the last two weeks. My Dad had a stroke so i have been helping him a lot. fortunately it was mild and he just needs to get his plumbing cleaned out. Work slowed to a halt and the heat has just been unreal. I am ready for a test fit on the engine so i can finish the harness and do the cooling/heater lines. I think once I see the engine in the car I will get fired up again. Its also supposed to cool off.


Unexpected things happen. Hope your dad is fine. Getting the engine back in is a milestone I have too. Sure will get you motivated. But still end is not close to move the car for me. Need to install front and front to back brake lines, rebuild calipers, modify suspension, yada yada yada.... It looks maybe by September if all goes very well and you know how that goes restoring old cars


jwrape MSG #122, 08-03-2011 09:37 AM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by hercimer01:

Just thought I would update here. I got hammered by life the last two weeks. My Dad had a stroke so i have been helping him a lot. fortunately it was mild and he just needs to get his plumbing cleaned out. Work slowed to a halt and the heat has just been unreal. I am ready for a test fit on the engine so i can finish the harness and do the cooling/heater lines. I think once I see the engine in the car I will get fired up again. Its also supposed to cool off.


Glad to hear your Dad is doing better. Sorry he had to go through that.

I know once I saw that motor sitting on the cradle I would be getting excited about the power in that little car. It would be so much fun to drive,.



hercimer01 MSG #123, 08-04-2011 12:58 AM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by Alex4mula:


It looks maybe by September if all goes very well and you know how that goes restoring old cars


Thanks guys for the encouragement.
This is my goal deadline;

Fierorama 2011 -St. Charles, IL: On Sunday, September 11th, 2011 join your fellow Fiero Enthusiasts from near and far for our annual Fierorama. This year's event is being held at the Holiday Inn Express located in St. Charles, Illinois. St. Charles is located in the Fox Valley area about 35 miles West of Chicago. It is easily accessible via several local roadways including Rt.64 (North Avenue), Rt.25, or Rt.31, all with easy connections from I-88, and I-90. The Holiday Inn is also our host hotel and is located at 1600 E. Main Street (Route 64) at the intersection of Tyler Road.
For more information on the weekends events and show information please visit the Fierorama page.


hercimer01 MSG #124, 08-14-2011 06:54 PM
      I have been working on it. Heres the low budget part, my wallet. Ive updated the needs list on page 3. I put the belts on today.



My fuel pump/sender is done. I washed out the fuel tank and its ready to install. the cabin is ready to go back together. PCM tune is in the works. I still need an exhaust system. I plan on the Flo-tech Afterburner.


hercimer01 MSG #125, 08-15-2011 02:06 AM
      Well my formula just sprung a coolant leak. At first I thought it was just the pump seal, but after looking at it closer it looks might be the timing cover seal under the water pump. Its obvious where its leaking from, defiantly a seal. Wow, more work. Oh and while i was in there i found the AC belt had almost sawed through the lower coolant hose also.

hercimer01 MSG #126, 08-17-2011 05:47 AM
      My PCM is on the way. Nosrac had some on the shelf ready to go for a good price. I put my interior back together with a used Alpine deck. I sprayed the cabin floors and the rear firewall with Permatex undercoating and added a little of that blue sound proofing to just the rear firewall on the inside.

Edit; The cradle will be going in tomorrow for a test fit and to finish up the wiring.

[This message has been edited by hercimer01 (edited 08-17-2011).]

nosrac MSG #127, 08-17-2011 07:52 AM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by hercimer01:

My PCM is on the way. Nosrac had some on the shelf ready to go for a good price. I put my interior back together with a used Alpine deck. I sprayed the cabin floors and the rear firewall with Permatex undercoating and added a little of that blue sound proofing to just the rear firewall on the inside.

Edit; The cradle will be going in tomorrow for a test fit and to finish up the wiring.



Dammit...I sent you a Manual tuned PCM....Doh
I don't know what I am thinking lately. I will have to send another off today. I will PM you with the details.


hercimer01 MSG #128, 08-17-2011 05:25 PM
      Yeah, sorry for the confusion Terrance. Im doing an auto into a 4 speed car. I have been just saying that because I wasn't sure what it takes for the conversion. PM sent.

hercimer01 MSG #129, 08-18-2011 04:33 PM
      nosrac, The manual PCM has been returned.

Edit: I received the Auto one.

[This message has been edited by hercimer01 (edited 08-21-2011).]

hercimer01 MSG #130, 08-21-2011 05:47 PM
      Fitting in car to finish up.





hercimer01 MSG #131, 08-21-2011 05:54 PM
      Think I can Git Er Done by Sept.11 FieroRama?

hercimer01 MSG #132, 08-25-2011 03:55 AM
      I found a computer holder from a 2002 S-10. I cut off the mounting tabs and just screwed it through into the existing tinerman clips.


I mounted it so the plugs are facing down like the old one.


The cooling fins will have to be trimmed a bit.Edit: I cut the back of the console out instead.

[This message has been edited by hercimer01 (edited 08-26-2011).]

hercimer01 MSG #133, 08-26-2011 07:47 AM
      Well i have the PCM wired up and the C203 connector done except for the VSS. I ran the green wire from C1-55 down by the C203 to interface through the diode and cap. It gets hooked to G On C203. What gets done with C203 H?

I still have the C500 left to hook up.


phonedawgz (gofast@reddevilriver.com) MSG #134, 08-26-2011 07:57 AM
      C203 H - VSS signal from the speedometer to the ECM - not used on a 3800

[This message has been edited by phonedawgz (edited 08-26-2011).]

hercimer01 MSG #135, 08-26-2011 07:20 PM
      Thanks phonedawgs! Do you know where C203-H comes out behind the dash? I would like to use it for the Perf Shift wire.

I decided it would just be easier to cut the back of the console out. Maybe it will help keep it cooler too. I removed the steel rod from the mounting tray also. The tray holds the computer just fine with out it. The green tape is only temporary holding the bundles together. I will dress the wire harness after im done wiring.

[This message has been edited by hercimer01 (edited 08-26-2011).]

hercimer01 MSG #136, 08-26-2011 07:51 PM
      I have the oil pressure center pin wire connected to the gauge C203-E. where do the other two wires Go? (pressure switch wires) One to the Eng Block Gnd and the other to the Fuel Pump relay? Does the pressure sender need voltage to work?

[This message has been edited by hercimer01 (edited 08-26-2011).]

phonedawgz (gofast@reddevilriver.com) MSG #137, 08-26-2011 09:03 PM
      The two outside wires - one Orange/Black and one Tan/White hook up to C203 B, and C203 L.

Yes those two wires also run to the fuel pump relay.


hercimer01 MSG #138, 08-27-2011 02:57 AM
      This is how I wired my fuel pump relay. C203 B and L doesn't make any sense.



Could you Edit maybe with "paint" or explain?

[This message has been edited by hercimer01 (edited 08-27-2011).]

hercimer01 MSG #139, 08-27-2011 03:51 AM
      It Closes with oil pressure to keep the fuel pump running? Does the Fuel pump control line shut down at some point?

[This message has been edited by hercimer01 (edited 08-27-2011).]

phonedawgz (gofast@reddevilriver.com) MSG #140, 08-27-2011 05:09 AM
      Yep - wired like that.

Nope - both switches (oil pressure and ECM controlled relay) normally stay on during the entire time the engine is running.


hercimer01 MSG #141, 08-28-2011 01:50 AM
      Is the tach signal ICM white wire paralleled to the PCM C1-54 and C500-C3?

88RedFormula (kwhiting16@aol.com) MSG #142, 08-28-2011 05:01 AM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by hercimer01:







Just out of curiosity, is that second cable north of the shift cable the throttle cable?


hercimer01 MSG #143, 08-28-2011 05:33 AM
      Yes it is the throttle cable. And the line to the south is the Brake Booster line.

hercimer01 MSG #144, 08-28-2011 01:27 PM
      The wiring is 99% done. Just need to ring out a few lines. I put the data link connector in the stock location.That was a booger taking the firewall feed through apart so I could run the harness through it.

[This message has been edited by hercimer01 (edited 08-28-2011).]

hercimer01 MSG #145, 08-28-2011 01:32 PM
      Now I need to hook up cooling, heater core, fuel lines, assemble the axles, install an auto radiator with tranny cooling lines, and make an exhaust. The body work wont be done for the show but at least it will be running. I'm thinking about taking it with all the body panels off.

hercimer01 MSG #146, 08-28-2011 01:40 PM
      I got the new battery tray welded in this morning.


phonedawgz (gofast@reddevilriver.com) MSG #147, 08-28-2011 01:41 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by hercimer01:

Is the tach signal ICM white wire paralleled to the PCM C1-54 and C500-C3?


NO

Only the white wire on pin E of the ICM connector gets connected to C500-C3. The PCM pin on C1-54 doesn't get connected to anything.

[This message has been edited by phonedawgz (edited 08-28-2011).]

hercimer01 MSG #148, 08-28-2011 01:43 PM
      Is the old C500 alternator cable supposed to be hooked up? the alternator is now hooked up from the starter. Does that junction block need more juice than what the battery cable fusible link can supply?

hercimer01 MSG #149, 08-28-2011 01:45 PM
      I did parallel the tach signal to PCM and C500 from the ICM. we're typing at the same time. I will disconnect the ICM tach feed to the PCM. thanks

[This message has been edited by hercimer01 (edited 08-28-2011).]

phonedawgz (gofast@reddevilriver.com) MSG #150, 08-28-2011 01:46 PM
      It's best to have the cable from the alternator run to the power distribution block. You should use the fusible link end at the power distribution block. Cut shorter the alternator end and put a ring connector on it.

The starter connection is in a less wire friendly place. Using that bolt down there to make electrical connections can lead to problems down the road.

The alternator cable from your 3800 is larger because the 3800 alternators can put out quite a bit more amperage. The fusible link belongs at the 'battery' end of the cable. Electrically using the starter bolt is about the same. GM did that in '84, but quit in '85. Many 84 owners have had problems with that connection and/or fusible links coming loose after baking and vibrating next to the engine and causing them problems.

[This message has been edited by phonedawgz (edited 08-28-2011).]

hercimer01 MSG #151, 08-28-2011 01:51 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by phonedawgz:

It's best to have the cable from the alternator run to the power distribution block. You should use the fusible link end at the power distribution block. Cut shorter the alternator end and put a ring connector on it.

The starter connection is in a less wire friendly place. Using that bolt down there to make electrical connections can lead to problems down the road.


I was afraid of the the load on the starter bolt, although that is stock for the GTP, ( I think ). I will change that also.

[This message has been edited by hercimer01 (edited 08-28-2011).]

hercimer01 MSG #152, 08-28-2011 01:55 PM
      Back to work................

hercimer01 MSG #153, 08-28-2011 03:42 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by sportcoupe:

The coil pack does fit there if you turn it 90 deg. and remove the decklid springs (mine hit the SC anyway).



I will try to do this so i can use my old plug wires.

[This message has been edited by hercimer01 (edited 08-28-2011).]

hercimer01 MSG #154, 08-30-2011 10:02 AM
      I put in an automatic radiator with new lines to the back last night. I also patched my fuel tank where the straps hold it up with fuel tank sealant. It had a pin hole in it. Then I gave it a coat of POR-15, it looks brand new. My cable modem is down so no pics for now.

[This message has been edited by hercimer01 (edited 08-30-2011).]

hercimer01 MSG #155, 08-30-2011 08:33 PM
     



hercimer01 MSG #156, 08-31-2011 03:54 AM
      I got the fuel tank, pump and filter in tonight. So
close and yet so far.


hercimer01 MSG #157, 09-02-2011 02:15 AM
      The fuel lines are done. The throttle cable is connected. The shifter cable bracket is modified and the cable is installed and adjusted. Spark plug are in. Now i have to figure out where im putting the ICM. The cooling plumbing will be next. Still have to do axles and exhaust.

Edit: got the muffler ordered and it will be here Sat. Got he exhaust tubing ordered it will be here Tues.

[This message has been edited by hercimer01 (edited 09-02-2011).]

hercimer01 MSG #158, 09-03-2011 12:32 AM
      I sold my 4 speed out of the GT and the steering column out of the GTP!!! Now i have enough money to get it running.

I ordered the Flotech Afterburner 5036FLT http://www.summitracing.com/parts/BIG-50363FLT/
I ordered 3- 3" 90 degree bends, A 3" X 8" Flex joint, and 2- 2.5" 90 pipes that come out of the muffler, I have the flange.

I also found a 1.5" X .75" brass tee for the heater core return http://www.jagsthatrun.com/...-TBI_Brass-Tees.html


A friend of mine had this laying around.


hercimer01 MSG #159, 09-03-2011 12:40 AM
      I have a set of automatic axles and a set of manual axles and the 1998 4t65EHD tulips with the 1998 GTP axles. I have read a ton of threads and am more confused than when i started. I am not looking for the "definitive answer" Just what worked for you with the fieroX motor mounts. Whats your setup?

Will this work?
4t65ehd driver side = Fiero DRVR side auto & 98 GTP tripot. (From what I understand plug and play?)
4t65ehd pass side = Fiero Outer CV,GTP Drv side Axle( only the axle bar) & 98 GTP tripot?

[This message has been edited by hercimer01 (edited 09-03-2011).]

hercimer01 MSG #160, 09-04-2011 06:07 PM
      How the heck do you check the oil level with the dip stick against the firewall !!!???

phonedawgz (gofast@reddevilriver.com) MSG #161, 09-04-2011 08:06 PM
      Think with your dipstick Jimmy



http://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum2/HTML/114418.html


hercimer01 MSG #162, 09-05-2011 02:43 PM
      I'm gonna try to start it today.







[This message has been edited by hercimer01 (edited 05-21-2012).]

hercimer01 MSG #163, 09-05-2011 07:21 PM
      No luck starting it today.
I still need the coolant tee for the passenger side so hook up the heater core return to the main line. I hasn't come in yet.
I still have to change the trans fluid filter and fill it.
I still have to pull the Tach wire at the PCM, I guess it goes only the the Tach.
It still doesn't have an exhaust but I still want to start it at least with out it. That should be here tomorrow.
Oh and make the axles.


hercimer01 MSG #164, 09-06-2011 01:54 PM
      Yay!! This ones a little big, but it worked . Next time get the next size down on the Main hoses.

http://jagsthatrun.com/Page...-TBI_Brass-Tees.html

[This message has been edited by hercimer01 (edited 10-29-2014).]

hercimer01 MSG #165, 09-06-2011 02:19 PM
      It's like Christmas in September!!!!



Alex4mula (torres_a@hotmail.com) MSG #166, 09-06-2011 09:42 PM
      They say the Devil is in the details. So true. Sometimes you think you are so close when in reality all these little things keep delaying you. At least is my case. Keep on!

hercimer01 MSG #167, 09-06-2011 11:15 PM
      I tried to start it and it wont turn over. It used to be a manual car and the trans is an auto. I put the starter control in C500 E2. Any one?


hercimer01 MSG #168, 09-07-2011 04:35 AM
      As it turns out the Gear selection is backwards from a TH125C and a 4T60. A special bracket has to be made. I'm just gonna run it for now with the shift selector operating backwards. I was trying to start it in 1st.

hercimer01 MSG #169, 09-07-2011 02:10 PM
      : Its Alive!!



Edit: No Exhaust Yet.

[This message has been edited by hercimer01 (edited 12-23-2011).]

jwrape MSG #170, 09-07-2011 02:13 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by hercimer01:

: Its Alive!!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mQRpsYvvjdg

Edit: No Exhaust Yet.



That's cool > Excited for you. Can't wait till I can do that. Congrats



nosrac MSG #171, 09-07-2011 02:27 PM
     

Yaaay..!

Now just wait until you get a chance to put your foot into it.

I'm gona go drive my car right now...lol


hercimer01 MSG #172, 09-07-2011 02:29 PM
      A+ Rating for you nosrac thanks for the computer!

nosrac MSG #173, 09-07-2011 02:42 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by hercimer01:

A+ Rating for you nosrac thanks for the computer!


No problem, Let me know how well it drives. If you can get a scanner to monitor fuel trims, KR, etc. I can better tune your car for max MPG, and/or performance or if you add any performance goodies such as IC, or N* TB.



hercimer01 MSG #174, 09-08-2011 02:19 AM
      I found that i need to move the motor mounts to the passenger side 1/2' to make the axles equal length. This would allow two 86 4 speed drivers side axle shafts and outer CV to be plug and play into the 4T65EHD tulips. Does that sound right?
this is my pulley clearance to the hood as it is, almost even. Whats yours?

[This message has been edited by hercimer01 (edited 09-09-2011).]

hercimer01 MSG #175, 09-09-2011 12:22 AM
      I have been defeated. I wont have the car ready for Fierorama. The axles have kicked my butt.

hercimer01 MSG #176, 09-09-2011 10:50 AM
      I'm trying to engineer the axle setup needed for this swap. I figured there's so many people doing the swap that it would already be figured out. So many axle posts are really vague, misleading or over complicated. Keep in mind this is for the every day swap. Modding, you're on your own.
My point is that the geometry is the same regardless of how up or down the motor / trans is mounted or suspension for that matter. With the trans centered between the hubs the longest allowable axle length would be determined by the hubs at level with the tripots. Centering the trans would establish two identical axles needed for both sides. I still have to prove it but it looks like 2 manual drivers side axles with the 4T65EHD tripots would work.

[This message has been edited by hercimer01 (edited 09-09-2011).]

jwrape MSG #177, 09-09-2011 10:53 AM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by hercimer01:

I'm trying to engineer the axle setup needed for this swap. I figured there's so many people doing the swap that it would already be figured out. So many axle posts are really vague, misleading or over complicated.
My point is that the geometry is the same regardless of how up or down the motor / trans is mounted or suspension for that matter. With the trans centered between the hubs the longest allowable axle length would be determined by the hubs at level with the tripots. Centering the trans would establish two identical axles needed for both sides. I still have to prove it but it looks like 2 manual drivers side axles with the 4T65EHD tripots would work.


looking forward to the answer you engineer up for when i do it


hercimer01 MSG #178, 09-12-2011 11:55 AM
      2 Fiero Manual Driver Side axles will work when i center up Tripots to the hubs. it has to move to the passenger side 1/2". (Fiero manual driver side axles are the same length and make up as Beretta and Cavalier driver side axles , I THINK, I STILL HAVE TO CHECK IT OUT.)

Edit; With the (GTP) Tripots centered that leaves 3/4" clearance in the bottom of the (GTP} tripots with a Fiero driver side manual axle on each side. FYI a 91 Caddy Deville driver side inner axle (2.5" between the boots.) is 14.5" just like the Fiero manual driver side inner axle and can be used to build a correct length axle.

The position of the engine at this point will not allow the GTP stock dogbone brace to line up, Youll have to make a left side brace like the WCF brace or order theirs.

[This message has been edited by hercimer01 (edited 09-25-2011).]

RumbleB MSG #179, 09-12-2011 09:47 PM
      I noticed that your fuel rail is in the stock position. Why not flip it around so the fuel hoses are not hanging over your serpentine belt. Just thinking safety.

hercimer01 MSG #180, 09-12-2011 10:07 PM
      I tried but the hold downs for the fuel rail are in different locations when you swap it around. How would you anchor it down?

hercimer01 MSG #181, 09-16-2011 11:41 AM
      I moved the motor and trans to the passenger side 1/2" The trans is now centered between the hubs. This allows for 2 driver side manual axles to fit between the hubs. 3/4" is left in the bottom of the tulips at full compression. with the struts fully extended there is no binding in the tulips.

hercimer01 MSG #182, 09-16-2011 08:07 PM
      I now cannot use the stock dogbone I had fitted with the idler pulley. Im gonna fab something out of steel.

hercimer01 MSG #183, 09-24-2011 08:46 PM
      It aint pretty but its done, my first time mig welding, not bad if I do say so my self.













Its a true 3" exhaust with 2.5" out of the Flowtech Afterburner muffler. I tried to leave room for a Inter-cooler eventually. Thats why I decided to cut the trunk out.


hercimer01 MSG #184, 09-25-2011 01:26 AM
      Here's a sound clip.

[This message has been edited by hercimer01 (edited 12-23-2011).]

hercimer01 MSG #185, 09-25-2011 02:23 AM
      I noticed that my speedo is stuck on 120MPH. (even with the key off.) I did this for the speedo mod. Edit; I did a search for "stuck on 120" and it apears to a common problem and fixes itself with driving. I have no idea how long this car has been laid up, I bought it as a non runner.


And I have no Tach reading. Im pretty sure i hooked the ICM white wire t o C500 C3.

[This message has been edited by hercimer01 (edited 09-25-2011).]

hercimer01 MSG #186, 09-25-2011 02:26 AM
      The cooling temp, voltage, gas and oil pressure gauges all work.

Edit; I didn't remove the clutch switch, you have to push the clutch pedal in to start it. Is there anything i have to change in the car wiring?

[This message has been edited by hercimer01 (edited 09-25-2011).]

hogrunr (glbottoms@bellsouth.net) MSG #187, 09-25-2011 05:33 AM
      i'll be interested in seeing what the final price is on the engine swop. the engine looks great and the car looks to be in great shape too. keep the pictures coming great job. thanks glbottoms

Alex4mula (torres_a@hotmail.com) MSG #188, 09-25-2011 10:28 AM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by hercimer01:

It aint pretty but its done, my first time mig welding, not bad if I do say so my self.
..



Its a true 3" exhaust with 2.5" out of the Flowtech Afterburner muffler. I tried to leave room for a Inter-cooler eventually. Thats why I decided to cut the trunk out.



That's a pretty darn nice system. I need to build one like that but without cutting the trunk. Also not still sure if I will keep the trumpets.


hercimer01 MSG #189, 09-25-2011 01:48 PM
      The muffler was 65.00 plus shipping. The 3-3" elbows, flex joint, and 2-2.5" X12" 90deg bends were $140.00. I am keep a tally on the costs and will write some thing up when i get it on the road. Thanks guys.

phonedawgz (gofast@reddevilriver.com) MSG #190, 09-25-2011 01:56 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by hercimer01:

The cooling temp, voltage, gas and oil pressure gauges all work.

Edit; I didn't remove the clutch switch, you have to push the clutch pedal in to start it. Is there anything i have to change in the car wiring?



At the clutch pedal - the weird switch with the long thing that slides through it - there is a fat purple wire and a fat yellow wire on it. Connect the two.



phonedawgz (gofast@reddevilriver.com) MSG #191, 09-25-2011 01:59 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by hercimer01:

I noticed that my speedo is stuck on 120MPH. (even with the key off.) I did this for the speedo mod. Edit; I did a search for "stuck on 120" and it apears to a common problem and fixes itself with driving. I have no idea how long this car has been laid up, I bought it as a non runner.


And I have no Tach reading. Im pretty sure i hooked the ICM white wire t o C500 C3.



Do the tach / speedo twitch/move at all when you turn the key on? If not, perhaps you have no power to the dash gauges. If the speedo is twitching/moving at all you can manually push the needle back to the middle of it's movement and see what happens.

Also I have pre-made speedo buffers for sale here
http://reddevilriver.com/Page_4.html

[This message has been edited by phonedawgz (edited 09-25-2011).]

hercimer01 MSG #192, 09-26-2011 01:48 AM
      I found the Tach problem. There are two white wires int the ICM connector, pin A and E. I ran pin A into the C500 C3. A is the ignition control and I was also getting an intermittent P1351 DTC which explains that. Pin E is probably C1-54 which I had removed from the connector before I started the car because some how i thought was paralled in with C500 C3. Brain fart. I completely wired the car in two all nighters. so far thats the only mistake i've found.

hercimer01 MSG #193, 09-27-2011 12:40 AM
      Well I got the Tach working and the P1351 (ignition control circuit high voltage) code straightened out. I ran the ignition control wire, ICM pin A, to, C500 C-3 (Tach input). I reconnected it to C1-54. I have no idea what i did with the Tach wire so I just ran a new one from ICM pin E , to, C500 C-3. All better now.

I still have to repack the axles with new grease and put the brakes on. I bought Grand Am calipers and rotors for the rear. Eventually I will do the S-10 booster upgrade. I think its almost ready to run besides putting the body panels back on. I probably won't though since its so late in the season, I can paint it this winter.


hercimer01 MSG #194, 10-07-2011 10:09 AM
      I finally put the axles together and in the car last night, what a stinky mess. I think I have a hangover from all the solvent. I'm gonna try to get the brakes on it this weekend and maybe take it around the block with the body off for a test run before I lay it up for the winter.

My Formula blew a timing cover/water pump gasket so I've been trying to get that back together too. I almost spent my self into the poor house getting the GT running.

Once I get it out for a test drive and actually motorvating under its own power, then I will do the cost analysis and post it. I think I did OK but then there was a lot of little stuff here and there.


MulletproofMonk MSG #195, 10-07-2011 10:25 AM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by hercimer01:
I tried but the hold downs for the fuel rail are in different locations when you swap it around. How would you anchor it down?


I don't know about turning it around, but I cut that little center bracket so that I could use a pipe bender to point my lines towards the firewall of the car like this. Hope to get it in the car this weekend.





fiero al MSG #196, 10-07-2011 01:12 PM
      very cool build so far. hope my build turns out as well as yours is going.

hercimer01 MSG #197, 10-07-2011 07:07 PM
      Thanks! I was hoping to be done by now. I ran into Murphys' Law lately. My air compressor crapped out. But I did come across a 60 gal. Ingersoll if I can get it for the right price. It is next to new. I'll need a good one for the paint.

hercimer01 MSG #198, 10-09-2011 08:20 PM
      Man I love craigslist, $200.00 cash. Now i'm back in business.
Edit: Ingersoll Rand had really crappy reviews, Campbell Hausefeld had good reviews. Its a 6HP single stroke.

[This message has been edited by hercimer01 (edited 10-09-2011).]

hercimer01 MSG #199, 10-09-2011 08:25 PM
      Grand Am brake upgrade, priceless.



I made this Dog Bone mount. Is that better DarkHorizon? I still have to grind and paint it. I will change the bushings too.



fiero al MSG #200, 10-10-2011 08:31 PM
     
 
quote


I like were you put the dog bone. I think i might do something like this on mine since I'm keeping the alt on top for now.


DimeMachine MSG #201, 10-11-2011 11:32 PM
      I was looking at this type of mount when I did my 3800SC swap, but ultimately decided not to because I kept my EGR (which is in the way )AND I was concerned about if the trunk wall is strong enough in this location to support the mount. I know there is a brace/support behind it, but where people mount the dog-bone on the passenger side, it ties into the bracket by the strut mount structure and the trunk wall - which appears to me to be much stronger. I would be particularly worried during hard launches. Has anyone had this style/location mount for a fairly long period of time that can report back on how it held up? I am not trying to detract in anyway from the good looking mount that you have made, I am just trying to see if anyone can confirm from experience if this location will ultimately hold up or not???



hercimer01 MSG #202, 10-12-2011 01:27 AM
      darkhorizon seems to be experienced with special setups and high horsepower. That's why i referred to DH earlier for approval. I do plan on modifying the passenger side dog bone bracket on the engine so that it lines back up to the original dogbone brace on the trunk wall. That will give me dual dogbones.

[This message has been edited by hercimer01 (edited 10-12-2011).]

L67 (pchaskin@uncc.edu) MSG #203, 10-12-2011 05:25 AM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by DimeMachine:
AND I was concerned about if the trunk wall is strong enough in this location to support the mount.


It isn't. I was able to destroy the trunk wall in the stock location without the triangulation piece. Bracing in the middle of the trunk wall will yield an even weaker objective to warp/bend.


hercimer01 MSG #204, 10-12-2011 11:30 PM
      Ok so tried bleeding the new brakes and the lines just ended up exploding. The car has been out of commission for along time.
I was trying to do the CASE learn on the PCM and the Snap On Solus pro kept telling me the brake is not set. I checked the TCC voltage into the PCM (C1-30, C203-P) off of the brake switch and it doesn't go away with the brakes applied. Also my brake lites don't work. The wiring pinouts have been kind of vague on the car wiring required.
My car was manual. So I guess I feel as if im missing something in the manual to auto conversion.

EDIT: The contacts in the brake switch are kind of trashed "erratic contact" so im cleaning them up. The center contact "pin B orange wire" feeds "pin A white wire" and "pin C blue wire" The orange wire is 20A fused and the blue wire feeds the brake lites.


Brake pedal not applied.

Brake pedal applied.

[This message has been edited by hercimer01 (edited 10-13-2011).]

hercimer01 MSG #205, 10-13-2011 01:27 AM
      Cleaning the contacts fixed the brake lites.
So how do I overcome the lack of a TCC switch?
Am I going to have to add wiring to the car side for the TCC?
I will be adding cruise to this also. It did not originally come with it.
I assume thats another switch on the pedal with more wiring?

[This message has been edited by hercimer01 (edited 10-13-2011).]

hercimer01 MSG #206, 10-13-2011 03:55 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by L67:


It isn't. I was able to destroy the trunk wall in the stock location without the triangulation piece. Bracing in the middle of the trunk wall will yield an even weaker objective to warp/bend.


How many horsepower were you running?


L67 (pchaskin@uncc.edu) MSG #207, 10-13-2011 06:50 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by hercimer01:
How many horsepower were you running?


Horsepower is completely irrelevant, torque is what breaks things. It was a stock L67 behind a Getrag 5 speed. Even with your 4T65, the trunk wall will bend with time. If you use it in conjunction with the stock location dogbone, you'll be alright. For those who are considering using only a center trunk mount, be assured the trunk will shrink.


hercimer01 MSG #208, 10-13-2011 07:24 PM
      I found this tonight at LKQ.
Brakes and TCC all in one.
Its from a 90 Olds Delta 88.
I just have to splice the upshift lite wire under the dash into the TCC switch, and the other wire to the orange wire of the brake switch.
This will hopefully give the PCM proper indication of the brakes so I can do my CASE learn. Edit; It did.

[This message has been edited by hercimer01 (edited 11-05-2011).]

hercimer01 MSG #209, 10-13-2011 07:31 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by L67:


Horsepower is completely irrelevant, torque is what breaks things. It was a stock L67 behind a Getrag 5 speed. Even with your 4T65, the trunk wall will bend with time. If you use it in conjunction with the stock location dogbone, you'll be alright. For those who are considering using only a center trunk mount, be assured the trunk will shrink.


I centered my trans so I could use two driver side manual axles. That threw the stock dog bone out to the pass side 1/2". I still have to have my brackets welded up and I will have the welder compensate for that.

Did you use a doubler behind the center bracket on the trunk wall? Not to keep it from bending but from tearing.


hercimer01 MSG #210, 10-14-2011 01:59 AM
     

hercimer01 MSG #211, 10-14-2011 08:01 PM
      Ah, Success. I was able to do my Case learn, it was actually CKP relearn on the SnapOn Solus Pro I borrowed.
As I was getting it up to temp it sprung a pretty good antifreeze leak under the heater core area under the car. Theres not much rust in this car, but it sat for so long that the little things are giving out. I would rather find this stuff out now than on the road.


hercimer01 MSG #212, 10-20-2011 02:55 AM
      I had an extra heater core I grabbed from LKQ a couple of years ago. That's in and removed the brake line from the front to the rear. Maybe i can get that replaced this week sometime.

hercimer01 MSG #213, 10-22-2011 02:57 AM
      Yay!!! PIP is back up!!!

I replaced the main brake line from the proportioning valve in the front to the tee by the right rear tire.
The bubble flare nuts are M14X1.5 with 6mm tubing. P/N BLF-53C-5 at Autozone. I used a metric double flare tool and made fine looking bubble flares with it.


hercimer01 MSG #214, 10-22-2011 04:37 PM
      OK so seriously. The hoses are bad and im replacing the rest of the rear lines too. At this rate I will be replacing the whole front system also.

phonedawgz (gofast@reddevilriver.com) MSG #215, 10-22-2011 05:01 PM
      Seriously, you should.

Anything that is in Wisconsin is well rotted to gone by now. Might as well get it all done.


hercimer01 MSG #216, 10-22-2011 08:43 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by phonedawgz:

Seriously, you should.

Anything that is in Wisconsin is well rotted to gone by now. Might as well get it all done.


Yeah, I will. I guess i'm just spoiled, my Formula is from Phoenix and its a joy to work on. NO rust except under the battery a tiny bit.

At least its on the ground and portable now. I used P/N BLF-39C-5 (M10X1, 3/16" tubing) for the small tube fittings in the rear.

[This message has been edited by hercimer01 (edited 10-22-2011).]

hercimer01 MSG #217, 10-23-2011 03:11 PM
      Try to ignore his annoying gum smack.
Its portable now!!


I was sitting on a 4X4 chunk of wood, so it was hard to accelerate right.

[This message has been edited by hercimer01 (edited 12-23-2011).]

hercimer01 MSG #218, 11-05-2011 05:55 PM
      I have a 4K RPM stumble now with no codes.
I did a CASE learn with a SnapOn Solus Pro scantool after I installed the PCM.
I dont know if it has been doing this all along or just started.
I haven't had the car out yet for a hard drive, just around the block.
Anyone have any ideas whats causing this?

[This message has been edited by hercimer01 (edited 07-07-2012).]

phonedawgz (gofast@reddevilriver.com) MSG #219, 11-05-2011 06:01 PM
      Rev limiter in Neutral.



hercimer01 MSG #220, 11-05-2011 06:03 PM
      Thanks I was wondering about that.

[This message has been edited by hercimer01 (edited 07-07-2012).]

phonedawgz (gofast@reddevilriver.com) MSG #221, 11-05-2011 06:05 PM
      4000 in Park/Neutral

59950 in Drive

[This message has been edited by phonedawgz (edited 11-05-2011).]

hercimer01 MSG #222, 11-05-2011 06:34 PM
      I have been on the hunt now for a while to come up with a cheap intake solution, and I think I found it. What do you think for $32.00?
Edit; the drain pipe ID is 4", the PVC peice is a 3" coupling with an OD of 4"






[This message has been edited by hercimer01 (edited 07-28-2012).]

hercimer01 MSG #223, 11-05-2011 06:37 PM
      Thats pretty much all the parts to do the install. Now I will Tally up all the receipts and post the results.

Jfrost MSG #224, 12-14-2011 03:29 PM
      Any updates on how much this ended up costing you?

hercimer01 MSG #225, 12-14-2011 07:59 PM
      Yeah. Ive just been lazy. I have a bag full of receipts that I have to sort. Now that you have asked I will get it done Thanks.

hercimer01 MSG #226, 12-14-2011 08:42 PM
      Here goes, I will use this text box to update the price tag.

1986 Fiero GT 49k miles with a blown motor
$900.00__

1998 GTP 130K miles whole car
$500.00__

Odds and ends
$119.00__Title
$35.00__Registration, Antique vehicle, 4 years worth
$14.99__Center console
$22.49__High temp paint
$9.98__Undercoat

$201.46__TL

Air intake;
$24.99__8132 Spectra air filter
$5.77__Drain pipe
$1.15__3" PVC coupling
$3.00__Clamps

$34.91__TL

Exhaust;
$119.89__Flotech afterburner w/shipping
$140.00__ Exhaust pipes
$6.99__Exhaust flange gasket, 1
$5.88__Tail pipe hanger universal, 2
$5.99__ Aluminum engine enamel,1

$278.75__TL

Brakes, Grand Am upgrade, rear only
$47.98__Brake hoses
$10.49__Brake pads
$45.98__Calipers
$39.98__Rotors
$20.00__Brake lines

$164.43__TL

Transmission
$7.49__Pax 560 brake line
$20.23__Trans cooler hose
$13.99__ Trans Filter
$29.98__Tans fluid, 2 Gal
$7.49__Gear selector
$10.99__Gear shift select cable
$12.00__Hose menders

$102.17__TL

Axles
$14.34__Half shaft
$9.99__ Grease

$24.43__TL

Suspension
$45.00__POR15
$120.00__Sandblast cradle
$51.98__FA1146 Rear lower ball joints
$25.17__7304 Control arm bushings Prothane
$48.57__7502 Cradle bushings Prothane

$290.72__TL

Engine
$350.00__FieroX motor mounts
$21.99__820K6 serpentine belt
$14.99__665K6 serpentine belt
$21.99__ 5W-30 Oil, 4 qts
$3.99__Oil filter
$1.99__ VS50465R Valve cover gaskets
$11.97__Fuel injector Orings
$4.99__61024 TBI gasket
$15.99__TU179 temp switch
$16.99__231086 Idler pulley
$50.79__MS98014T LIM gaskets
$1.99__MS95744 UIM gasket
$5.99__Black silicone
$4.44__Plug wires
$45.79__89367 Belt tensioner.
$8.99__15849 Thermostat
$4.99__Oil pressure sensor
$26.94__APP606 spark plugs

$614.48__TL

Electrical
$00.00__ Wire Harness self fabricated
$75.00__Pre programmed PCM from nosrac
$91.15__Battery
$4.99__Battery tray, stock
$2.98__ Electrical tape, 2 rolls

$174.12__TL

Cooling
$24.00__Coolant tee
$00.00__Filler tee
$49.99__Automatic radiator
$20.99__E72003 Radiator hose
$2.38__Heater hose
$10.98__Hose clamps
$9.99__Over flow tank

$118.33__TL

Fuel
$21.99__PT2352 ACDelco fuel pump pigtail
$18.76__Fuel hose
$79.99__Fuel pump (Airtex equivalent to EP376)
$14.99__Fuel filter

$135.73__TL

$3403.80__TTL
$1400.00__Minus cars

$2003.80__With out the 2 cars for just the various stuffs.

plus 7.25% sales tax

I think that is pretty much it. I will up date it as I think of more.

[This message has been edited by hercimer01 (edited 12-16-2011).]

hercimer01 MSG #227, 01-18-2012 03:19 PM
      I just got my brand new door glass, I chipped the original one.



hercimer01 MSG #228, 03-14-2012 11:37 PM
      And the cost is rising with the temps Got this from gtxbullet, thanks.









I got rid of the spring holding up the passenger side.


hercimer01 MSG #229, 03-16-2012 05:23 PM
      I have 2 DIY_STU dew wipes coming i bought off nitroheadz28 in the mall. Now I can remove the windows so I can tint them and reinstall them.

Edit: got them the other day. They look great.

[This message has been edited by hercimer01 (edited 03-24-2012).]

hercimer01 MSG #230, 03-17-2012 02:50 PM
      Yay. I just picked this up today. (I plan on doing both my cars.)



TheRealShadowX (therealshadowx@gmail.com) MSG #231, 03-18-2012 02:58 AM
      Congrats on getting moved to the Construction Zone!!!!

hercimer01 MSG #232, 04-01-2012 07:47 PM
      I made a side scoop today. I used 3M 04247 Duramix. The quarter panels are RRIM and the material used to fill in was RIM from an old bumper cover .

I did the pass. side first and forgot to get a pic of the layout.


















hercimer01 MSG #233, 04-09-2012 01:54 AM
     
























GADJet MSG #234, 04-27-2012 01:42 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by hercimer01:

























Nice, I think I will try this myself. Nice job on the engine install also. Have you really "DRIVEN" it yet? If so, did it excite you?


hercimer01 MSG #235, 05-05-2012 02:55 AM
      I drove it the one time in the video but the seat wasn't in, I was sitting on a block of wood so couldn't really open it up. Plus it was the first test run.

I had to do alot of shaping with the epoxy. Now I can fill the minor stuff with filler.
I pulled the defrost cover off an old dash I had that was no good. The honeycomb looks great behind the opening. Maybe i can get them primed this weekend.







BlownFiero86 MSG #236, 05-05-2012 03:39 AM
      awesome job, can't wait to see finish product on the scoops.

hercimer01 MSG #237, 05-07-2012 02:22 AM
      I guess i missed getting a pic of the passenger side scoop but it looks good too.



[This message has been edited by hercimer01 (edited 10-30-2017).]

hercimer01 MSG #238, 05-07-2012 02:32 AM
      I'm starting the paint on the rest of the car too.
Notice I deleted the antenna hole, I'm gonna do skitimes antenna mod.



85sliverGT (zymogenesyst@hotmail.com) MSG #239, 05-07-2012 08:28 PM
      Wow! Your scoops turned out really good! Nice work!

hercimer01 MSG #240, 05-08-2012 05:24 PM
      Thanks!
Here is the driver side.



hercimer01 MSG #241, 05-10-2012 12:01 AM
     


[This message has been edited by hercimer01 (edited 05-24-2012).]

hercimer01 MSG #242, 05-11-2012 01:48 AM
      I'm stripping the bumper covers because of spider web cracks in the old paint. Once i'm over these hurdles hopefully it will be smooth sailing. Knock on wood!





Stainless1911 (hisprodigalsun@gmail.com) MSG #243, 05-13-2012 10:20 AM
      The only thing that scares me about doing this project is wiring it.

I see a lot of cutting this wire, running that wire, this pin, and that C-500 or whatever connector, and I really don't know what that means or why it is being done.

Wouldnt it just be easier to take the wiring harness out of the Fiero, and install the one out of the donor car you got the engine out of Just use the switches from the pedals and such, and the IP, and you should be good to go right? Except for the transmission that is.



RumbleB MSG #244, 05-15-2012 08:56 AM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by Stainless1911:

The only thing that scares me about doing this project is wiring it.

I see a lot of cutting this wire, running that wire, this pin, and that C-500 or whatever connector, and I really don't know what that means or why it is being done.

Wouldnt it just be easier to take the wiring harness out of the Fiero, and install the one out of the donor car you got the engine out of Just use the switches from the pedals and such, and the IP, and you should be good to go right? Except for the transmission that is.


The two cars are way different. 1. The doner car has the engine the front whether Fiero has it in the back. So the wires are going the wrong direction. 2. The connectors are different so you will need to splice or felon connectors to get things to work with each other. It is really not as hard as salespeople think it is. Just take your time and if you get stuck there are plenty of people on here that can help.


Stainless1911 (hisprodigalsun@gmail.com) MSG #245, 05-16-2012 12:57 AM
      Thanks. thats an encouraging post. It's appreciated.

hercimer01 MSG #246, 05-16-2012 02:45 AM
      It really isn't that complicated.
Detailed yes so keep good notes. I used Mike Gonzales prints spread sheets and marked every thing off in with a pink sharpie as i made the connections. This was the most informative thread I used. http://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum2/HTML/113892.html

The thing that I had the hardest time wrapping my head around was how to run the wires or modify the donor harness. Finally RULOOKIN explained it best to me.
Which was to take the donor car's harness apart down to each component like the fuel injectors or coolant temp sensor and cut the wire at the computer leaving a 6 inch tail or so on the computer wire, Cut them staggered to different lengths so you don't have a stack of splices all in one spot. This is when you run the wire from each component with connector on the component through the car where you want how you want them routed and cut to length at the computer, most wires will be shortened but some will have to be added on to. Some people cut the wires to length at the computer and crimp on a new pin (nice but not necessary)

You will be removing the old computer from the fiero harness so you will have to reconnect things from the new computer back into cars wiring like the tail lights tachometer speedometer cruise and whatnot.

[This message has been edited by hercimer01 (edited 05-16-2012).]

hercimer01 MSG #247, 05-16-2012 03:12 AM
      I'm gonna be painting the car with the wing off and prepping the car to be wingless, I will paint the wing as to have it if I ever change my mind.















DP50, Bondo super thin skim coat block sanded, then 2 coats of Omni MP282 high build primer block sanded.



No Clear. Just 1 coat of base.

[This message has been edited by hercimer01 (edited 05-30-2012).]

hercimer01 MSG #248, 05-21-2012 01:26 AM
      Progress.







Stainless1911 (hisprodigalsun@gmail.com) MSG #249, 05-21-2012 09:58 AM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by hercimer01:

It really isn't that complicated.
Detailed yes so keep good notes. I used Mike Gonzales prints spread sheets and marked every thing off in with a pink sharpie as i made the connections. This was the most informative thread I used. http://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum2/HTML/113892.html

The thing that I had the hardest time wrapping my head around was how to run the wires or modify the donor harness. Finally RULOOKIN explained it best to me.
Which was to take the donor car's harness apart down to each component like the fuel injectors or coolant temp sensor and cut the wire at the computer leaving a 6 inch tail or so on the computer wire, Cut them staggered to different lengths so you don't have a stack of splices all in one spot. This is when you run the wire from each component with connector on the component through the car where you want how you want them routed and cut to length at the computer, most wires will be shortened but some will have to be added on to. Some people cut the wires to length at the computer and crimp on a new pin (nice but not necessary)

You will be removing the old computer from the fiero harness so you will have to reconnect things from the new computer back into cars wiring like the tail lights tachometer speedometer cruise and whatnot.




Part of my issue is that when I read a sentence like the one I quote in a sec, I dont know what he said... QUOTE:---------> I will be wiring up the 203 and 500 connections today. I counted 11 connections to the 203 (4 of which connect to pin K) making it 8 pins used on the 203 plug in the car and 4 connections to the 500 plug by the battery.


hercimer01 MSG #250, 05-21-2012 07:03 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by Stainless1911:
Part of my issue is that when I read a sentence like the one I quote in a sec, I dont know what he said... QUOTE:---------> I will be wiring up the 203 and 500 connections today. I counted 11 connections to the 203 (4 of which connect to pin K) making it 8 pins used on the 203 plug in the car and 4 connections to the 500 plug by the battery.


The hardest part about doing anything is thinking about it.


hercimer01 MSG #251, 05-22-2012 05:57 AM
      I ordered 2, four cylinder dogbones from TFS. They were out of the sixes at the time so i made these and got them painted today. I also got some other little goodies from ZZP today Credit goes to Loyde, I got the idea from one of his builds.Keep in mind the (engine) right dogbone is offset to accomodate 2 equal length axles on both sides.

[This message has been edited by hercimer01 (edited 07-22-2012).]

hercimer01 MSG #252, 05-24-2012 10:16 AM
     



[This message has been edited by hercimer01 (edited 05-27-2012).]

hercimer01 MSG #253, 05-24-2012 12:08 PM
      Aaaargh!!!
I broke my sail window trying to remove it.
I just ordered two tinted sail windows for it from Chris Cook. I have the door windows out so I can tint them.


hercimer01 MSG #254, 05-27-2012 01:45 AM
     







hercimer01 MSG #255, 05-27-2012 01:49 AM
      The primer is PPG DP50LF and Omni MP282 high build over that. With a thinned sealer coat of DP50LF over the block sanded high build.

[This message has been edited by hercimer01 (edited 08-10-2012).]

hercimer01 MSG #256, 05-28-2012 01:53 PM
      Well, there it is ready for paint. I sanded the high build with 320 because that's all i had for sand paper. I mixed up some more DP50LF and cut it thin with reducer and sprayed a sealer coat over the sanded 320. The DP50 should hide the sander marks I hope.





hercimer01 MSG #257, 05-28-2012 10:19 PM
     

[This message has been edited by hercimer01 (edited 06-03-2012).]

Stainless1911 (hisprodigalsun@gmail.com) MSG #258, 05-28-2012 10:22 PM
      black, nice.

hercimer01 MSG #259, 05-29-2012 07:31 PM
      3 coats of clear!!!







[This message has been edited by hercimer01 (edited 05-30-2012).]

hercimer01 MSG #260, 05-30-2012 12:38 AM
     

Reallybig MSG #261, 05-30-2012 03:01 AM
      Those bumpers look fantastic!

hercimer01 MSG #262, 05-30-2012 03:09 AM
     



[This message has been edited by hercimer01 (edited 05-30-2012).]

GADJet MSG #263, 05-30-2012 03:14 PM
      Very nice! Looks awesome bro. How big is your garage/shop?

hercimer01 MSG #264, 05-30-2012 03:31 PM
      Thanks. I am wore out. Its been a lot of work. I want to take it to the Wisconsin Dells Run this weekend, We'll see. I ordered my quarter windows from Chris Cook, I don't think they will be here in time for that.

Two cars, I can fit my Tahoe and a Fiero in it comfortably with room to walk around everything.


hercimer01 MSG #265, 05-31-2012 11:55 AM
      The rear clip is wet sanded and has to be resprayed with another coat of clear.





hercimer01 MSG #266, 06-01-2012 05:27 AM
      I got the rest of the panels on the car besides the hoods. I also sprayed the rear clip. It is still masked and baking in the garage. I cant wait to get it sanded and polished.

hercimer01 MSG #267, 06-01-2012 03:03 PM
      The trim moldings are just polished with 3M finesse. I used 3M machine glaze for the final buff.





[This message has been edited by hercimer01 (edited 07-28-2012).]

hercimer01 MSG #268, 06-02-2012 03:03 PM
     





Yes I know i'm missing a lugnut, It has lock nuts.

[This message has been edited by hercimer01 (edited 06-05-2012).]

Stainless1911 (hisprodigalsun@gmail.com) MSG #269, 06-02-2012 04:08 PM
      Wow.

What else can I say?

How much did this cost, start to finish?


hercimer01 MSG #270, 06-02-2012 05:53 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by hercimer01:

Here goes, I will use this text box to update the price tag.

1986 Fiero GT 49k miles with a blown motor
$900.00__

1998 GTP 130K miles whole car
$500.00__

Odds and ends
$119.00__Title
$35.00__Registration, Antique vehicle, 4 years worth
$14.99__Center console
$22.49__High temp paint
$9.98__Undercoat

$201.46__TL

Air intake;
$24.99__8132 Spectra air filter
$5.77__Drain pipe
$1.15__3" PVC coupling
$3.00__Clamps

$34.91__TL

Exhaust;
$119.89__Flotech afterburner w/shipping
$140.00__ Exhaust pipes
$6.99__Exhaust flange gasket, 1
$5.88__Tail pipe hanger universal, 2
$5.99__ Aluminum engine enamel,1

$278.75__TL

Brakes, Grand Am upgrade, rear only
$47.98__Brake hoses
$10.49__Brake pads
$45.98__Calipers
$39.98__Rotors
$20.00__Brake lines

$164.43__TL

Transmission
$7.49__Pax 560 brake line
$20.23__Trans cooler hose
$13.99__ Trans Filter
$29.98__Tans fluid, 2 Gal
$7.49__Gear selector
$10.99__Gear shift select cable
$12.00__Hose menders

$102.17__TL

Axles
$14.34__Half shaft
$9.99__ Grease

$24.43__TL

Suspension
$45.00__POR15
$120.00__Sandblast cradle
$51.98__FA1146 Rear lower ball joints
$25.17__7304 Control arm bushings Prothane
$48.57__7502 Cradle bushings Prothane

$290.72__TL

Engine
$350.00__FieroX motor mounts
$21.99__820K6 serpentine belt
$14.99__665K6 serpentine belt
$21.99__ 5W-30 Oil, 4 qts
$3.99__Oil filter
$1.99__ VS50465R Valve cover gaskets
$11.97__Fuel injector Orings
$4.99__61024 TBI gasket
$15.99__TU179 temp switch
$16.99__231086 Idler pulley
$50.79__MS98014T LIM gaskets
$1.99__MS95744 UIM gasket
$5.99__Black silicone
$4.44__Plug wires
$45.79__89367 Belt tensioner.
$8.99__15849 Thermostat
$4.99__Oil pressure sensor
$26.94__APP606 spark plugs

$614.48__TL

Electrical
$00.00__ Wire Harness self fabricated
$75.00__Pre programmed PCM from nosrac
$91.15__Battery
$4.99__Battery tray, stock
$2.98__ Electrical tape, 2 rolls

$174.12__TL

Cooling
$24.00__Coolant tee
$00.00__Filler tee
$49.99__Automatic radiator
$20.99__E72003 Radiator hose
$2.38__Heater hose
$10.98__Hose clamps
$9.99__Over flow tank

$118.33__TL

Fuel
$21.99__PT2352 ACDelco fuel pump pigtail
$18.76__Fuel hose
$79.99__Fuel pump (Airtex equivalent to EP376) ( I have since upgraded to an EP381 ACDelco fuel pump)
$14.99__Fuel filter

$135.73__TL

$3403.80__TTL
$1400.00__Minus cars

$2003.80__With out the 2 cars for just the various stuffs.

plus 7.25% sales tax

I think that is pretty much it. I will up date it as I think of more.



Not including paint or windows.

[This message has been edited by hercimer01 (edited 05-22-2014).]

Stainless1911 (hisprodigalsun@gmail.com) MSG #271, 06-02-2012 05:54 PM
      Wow again. Thats not as bad as I would have expected, thanks. That gives me some hope.

hercimer01 MSG #272, 06-04-2012 11:53 AM
     

hercimer01 MSG #273, 06-10-2012 03:41 PM
      All that stuff laying on the ground around the car is stuff that was washed out of the car when i bought it.





















Man thats a nice rear end !!!

[This message has been edited by hercimer01 (edited 06-26-2012).]

hercimer01 MSG #274, 06-23-2012 01:02 AM
      Every time I open my garage door, I get a big cheesy grin. I've put over 300 miles on it and its ran great! (Knock on wood) I added the performance shift switch in the dash after I drove it with out it for a while, and it does make a pretty big difference. It's bone stock and scary fast as it is. I can't imagine what the mods will do like some of you guys have done like a twin turbo.

I got to ride in a new ZO6 with NOS. We went up to 120 MPH and back down to a full stop in a quarter mile and it was like slow motion, kind of like when you get arrested?

Edit; I ran 14.55@92.09 in the quarter mile today. I was running 100LL AvGas. http://www.jasonbphotos.com...1995230119&k=ztjz8mQ

[This message has been edited by hercimer01 (edited 08-12-2012).]

Jfrost MSG #275, 07-17-2012 11:09 PM
      Its amazing the work you can do when you really apply yourself! I'm getting close to putting my engine together, definitely a lot of good info in here. Great build!

CC Rider (ccriderf1@gmail.com) MSG #276, 07-25-2012 12:05 PM
      Very nice work.
Love the install and the paint.



hercimer01 MSG #277, 08-04-2012 06:54 PM
      I just won this on Ebay! It's a 3.4 pulley. Maybe I can get down to 13.5 in the quarter mile now.

[This message has been edited by hercimer01 (edited 05-14-2013).]

hercimer01 MSG #278, 08-12-2012 01:33 AM
     





hercimer01 MSG #279, 08-12-2012 01:37 AM
      I didn't know it was an 8 rib pulley when I bought it. Do they even make 6? I looked for one and couldn't find one.

exoticse (exoticse@netzero.com) MSG #280, 08-12-2012 02:44 AM
     

Beautiful car.

A really amazing job of DIY work ! Very, very impressed.

That gorgeous ride just needs some aftermarket wheels and lowering and it will be a complete stunner.


hercimer01 MSG #281, 08-12-2012 07:37 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by exoticse:
Beautiful car.

A really amazing job of DIY work ! Very, very impressed.

That gorgeous ride just needs some aftermarket wheels and lowering and it will be a complete stunner.


Thank you very much. I will lower it this winter with the one coil cutout method. Wheels and tires depend on money.

They were having a grudge match gamblers shoot out this weekend so the tickets are cut in half so you can't see the other guys time. They got to run all day, I checked in and parked on the test and tune at 12:30, we didn't get to run till 5:30 after a few sprinkles hi the track. This was the only run I was able to get in and the speed didn't even register right. I'm not sure if I can be sure the time is accurate. I was expecting to get in the 13's. I was running 93 octane, I should have put some 100LL avgas in.

[This message has been edited by hercimer01 (edited 08-12-2012).]

hercimer01 MSG #282, 08-12-2012 07:45 PM
      I was offered 5,700 for it this weekend at the track, not sure what the car is worth.

[This message has been edited by hercimer01 (edited 08-12-2012).]

Celthora87GT (backstrokerj@yahoo.com) MSG #283, 08-25-2012 10:17 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by hercimer01:

I didn't know it was an 8 rib pulley when I bought it. Do they even make 6? I looked for one and couldn't find one.


They do... ZZP sells the "quick change pulleys"


hercimer01 MSG #284, 09-11-2012 04:27 PM
      I won 3RD place at Fierorama the non V8 swap class out of ten cars.







IanT720 (iant720@gmail.com) MSG #285, 09-20-2012 06:43 PM
      Came out beautiful indeed, thanks for helping me understand the coolant system.

ls3mach MSG #286, 10-14-2012 11:03 AM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by hercimer01:

I was offered 5,700 for it this weekend at the track, not sure what the car is worth.



Are you considering selling the car? I'd be interested possibly.


fiero67 (fiero67@netscape.net) MSG #287, 10-24-2012 06:58 PM
      adding this thread to favorites!


fireojay86 (jayborne81@yahoo.com) MSG #288, 10-28-2012 10:52 AM
      I think I missed it but what did you do for the chin spoiler I like the look

hercimer01 MSG #289, 10-28-2012 10:09 PM
      I fused it to the bumper cover, but really it should be removable in case of repairs needed. Tyler's Toy is the way it should look I believe. http://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum2/HTML/112286.html

hercimer01 MSG #290, 05-03-2013 12:08 AM
      Put my new reprogrammed computer in from ZZP today!





hercimer01 MSG #291, 05-03-2013 12:19 AM
      What kind of pillar gauges are people running on their L67 motors?

ZZP recommened Aeroforce Intercepter Scan Gauge but I already have Torque Pro running with blue tooth to my SIII.

I am considering the AEM Wideband Failsafe Gauge, But I kind of like the idea of have dedicated gauges for boost and whatnot. Although this gauge does some really nice data logging.


hercimer01 MSG #292, 05-04-2013 08:35 PM
      I put in a new fuel pump today just to be on the safe side.
EP381 AC Delcco
I had an Airtex cheapy in there before.

Edit 6/24/13; I wired the fuel pump with 14 Ga. wire to a new high capacity relay triggered off of the cars fuel pump relay.
Edit 4/15/15: I had to rewire the actual pump in the tank itself. The connector at the pump burned up. I soldered 14 gauge wire from the lugs on the pump to the wires in the sending unit.



[This message has been edited by hercimer01 (edited 07-19-2015).]

hercimer01 MSG #293, 05-11-2013 11:15 AM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by hercimer01:

Put my new reprogrammed computer in from ZZP today!



I think this was a mistake. I did no research to see how their product performs. I told them it was for a Fiero swap with an auto trans, no #2 O2 sensor, EGR delete with a 3.4 pulley and 4" intake with a 3" exhaust.

I got it back with a Purge solenoid/ fuel tank pressure DTC and Oil level in pan DTC. Also >1/2 throttle launch sounds like rocks are in my heads.

I Emailed them and they wanted a mod list, I said it was attached to the ECM with the Pre-Order sheet.
Now they are not responding to Emails.

WTB, DHP Powertuner!


nosrac MSG #294, 05-13-2013 08:25 AM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by hercimer01:


I think this was a mistake. I did no research to see how their product performs. I told them it was for a Fiero swap with an auto trans, no #2 O2 sensor, EGR delete with a 3.4 pulley and 4" intake with a 3" exhaust.

I got it back with a Purge solenoid/ fuel tank pressure DTC and Oil level in pan DTC. Also >1/2 throttle launch sounds like rocks are in my heads.

I Emailed them and they wanted a mod list, I said it was attached to the ECM with the Pre-Order sheet.
Now they are not responding to Emails.

WTB, DHP Powertuner!


Sorry about that as ZZP is NOT as good with the Fiero specific programming.
I was wondering why you felt you needed a new PCM as I will gladly update your original.
What other mods did you add? Are you sure it isn't something mechanical that is causing issues, like too much KR due to the smaller pulley.
However, if you have a DHP then you could do it yourself in real time and get max performance.



hercimer01 MSG #295, 05-13-2013 07:43 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by nosrac:


Sorry about that as ZZP is NOT as good with the Fiero specific programming.
I was wondering why you felt you needed a new PCM as I will gladly update your original.
What other mods did you add? Are you sure it isn't something mechanical that is causing issues, like too much KR due to the smaller pulley.
However, if you have a DHP then you could do it yourself in real time and get max performance.


Thanks for your help over in the tech section, I'm glad we got that sorted out.
I do kind of want to learn how to Tune the ECM so I am gonna get a PowerTuner.

I had a SnapOn Solus Pro scantoll on it looking at Knock Retard and it stayed at zero when the mystery noise showed up.

I just realized the pulley is a 3.4, I can't remeber what is the smallest i can go for stock.

[This message has been edited by hercimer01 (edited 05-13-2013).]

hercimer01 MSG #296, 05-15-2013 12:49 AM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by hercimer01:


I got it back with a Purge solenoid/ fuel tank pressure DTC and Oil level in pan DTC. Also >1/2 throttle launch sounds like rocks are in my heads.

WTB, DHP Powertuner!


Turns out my SC Coupler went bad when i put their new computer in.
They did reply and offered to fix their tune, but they asked if they could see my current computer and how its tuned.
I have two computers.

[This message has been edited by hercimer01 (edited 05-15-2013).]

hercimer01 MSG #297, 05-15-2013 12:53 AM
      I had a Snapon Solus Pro Scan Tool on it when I was taking off trouble shooting the noise. I was watching knock retard and it showed zero under all conditions.

1fast2m4 MSG #298, 05-28-2013 05:46 PM
      edit: double post somehow

[This message has been edited by 1fast2m4 (edited 05-28-2013).]

1fast2m4 MSG #299, 05-28-2013 05:52 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by hercimer01:

I didn't know it was an 8 rib pulley when I bought it. Do they even make 6? I looked for one and couldn't find one.



I got the same pulley, but I ordered my straight for intense, they sent me a 8-rib too. it's no big deal, but on mine the two ribs on the battery are unused. I don't think they are bothering to make 6-ribs anymore. since the 8 rib version covers both.


P.S. 3.4" is the smallest your "Supposed" to go on a stock motor, but if you have no KR issues and your monitoring KR you can go smaller. especially if your using race gas to compensate. It's just that if you enjoy driving the car allot you may be more inclined to run a slightly larger pulley on pump gas rather than have a car addicted to race fuel.

But at the end of the day the smallest pulley you can run is the smallest you can run W/O KR.



hercimer01 MSG #300, 05-30-2013 02:39 AM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by hercimer01:


I think this was a mistake. I did no research to see how their product performs. I told them it was for a Fiero swap with an auto trans, no #2 O2 sensor, EGR delete with a 3.4 pulley and 4" intake with a 3" exhaust.

I got it back with a Purge solenoid/ fuel tank pressure DTC and Oil level in pan DTC. Also >1/2 throttle launch sounds like rocks are in my heads.

I Emailed them and they wanted a mod list, I said it was attached to the ECM with the Pre-Order sheet.
Now they are not responding to Emails.

WTB, DHP Powertuner!


I went ahead and bought a DHP PowerTuner. I figured out how to read the PCM, disabled the two DTCs they left on it (one was a purge solenoid and the other was the oil level code).and then reflashed the PCM.

They wanted me to send the computer back to them but I didn't feel like messing around with them due to their less than helpful attitude. They did however ask me to come in for a Dyno tune. I doubt it would be for free but it might be worth it I guess.

Now I still have to change the coupler then I can hit the track finally!



hercimer01 MSG #301, 05-30-2013 02:45 AM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by 1fast2m4:



Kemp3 (jckemp3@sonic.net) MSG #302, 05-30-2013 09:32 AM
      if your running 3.4 on a series III SC and not getting any knock it may be worth more ponies to add timing. But you might want to verify your knock sensors are working.

Back when I did my 3800 I learned the same lesson , ZZP iffy when things go wrong. Intense was great for every transaction and most importantly someone answered the phone when you needed to talk to them.


1fast2m4 MSG #303, 05-30-2013 05:55 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by hercimer01:


Linkys?


yea here is my build thread -->> Biuld thread linky

and here is my drag day thread -->> headed to the drag strip linky


Nothing to special about the car 1986 SE 3800 series 2 out of a 98 Bonneville ssei trans was from the same car and I've never had them separated. Mods are a Intense 3.4" Pulley, ZZP 1.0 PCM, EGR & EVAP delete, NKG TR55 plugs, 3" single exhaust and for track purposes I run a cheapo 3" intake routed directly to the factory opening in the rear 1/4. I'm also running MickeyThompson ET Street drag radials on the stock 14" fiero rims

I really should update my build tread, as soon as i got it running I stopped taking pictures and updating, been having too much fun.


hercimer01 MSG #304, 06-01-2013 04:12 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by hercimer01:


I went ahead and bought a DHP PowerTuner. I figured out how to read the PCM, disabled the two DTCs they left on it (one was a purge solenoid and the other was the oil level code).and then reflashed the PCM.

Now I still have to change the coupler then I can hit the track finally!


I'm still getting a growling noise at WOT from the engine with the BBV tied open and SC pulley clamped still. So its not the supercharger.

I am worried that it could be detonation.
I went through the DTC fault codes enabled and the knock sensors were disabled in the ECM I had ZZP do, is that right?


do I need to bore scope my cylinders?



1fast2m4 MSG #305, 06-01-2013 07:13 PM
      Thats just stating that a knock sensor fault does not have the ability to activate the check engine light. not that the PCM in ignoring them.

Mine are "off' as well

[This message has been edited by 1fast2m4 (edited 06-01-2013).]

hercimer01 MSG #306, 06-11-2013 05:24 PM
      I put in new Accel yellow plug wires.
I deleted the #2 O2 sensor from the ZZP tune.
I did a case relearn, though probably unnecessary.
Ran the hell out of it, and no weird noises! YAY!!!


EDIT;
I spoke too soon. Its back.

[This message has been edited by hercimer01 (edited 08-12-2013).]

hercimer01 MSG #307, 06-23-2013 08:24 PM
      I just finished putting in the digital cruise control and it actually works! Yay!!

[This message has been edited by hercimer01 (edited 06-24-2013).]

hercimer01 MSG #308, 07-01-2013 01:28 AM
      I put 938 miles on it taking down to the 30Th and back. It ran like a charm.





[This message has been edited by hercimer01 (edited 05-26-2014).]

hercimer01 MSG #309, 07-29-2013 10:17 AM
      The second one was my best.
I'm running 15 year old BFG radial TA's.
3.4 pulley.
If any one has a suggestion on tuning using the DHP Power Tuner, please help me break into 13 seconds.



nosrac MSG #310, 07-31-2013 01:47 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by hercimer01:


If any one has a suggestion on tuning using the DHP Power Tuner, please help me break into 13 seconds.



Increase shift points, lean out the base AFR, add timing in the lower RPM range.

Also, add a Wideband o2 to insure the AFR is actually what is being commanded,


hercimer01 MSG #311, 08-11-2013 04:07 PM
      I'm not real sure of how to change those but I do want to learn.

For now i'm just doing some basic checks.
Here is my dry compression test.
110PSI highest * 15% = 16.5PSI
110 - 16.5 = 93.5 is lowest allowable compression.
This means they're all within 15% of each other, in other words. Good.

Unless they are all just low. Whats a good range?

[This message has been edited by hercimer01 (edited 08-12-2013).]

Lou6t4gto (loubreslow@gmail.com) MSG #312, 08-14-2013 01:11 AM
      Before I decided to rebuild mine , SC from 1997 Riviera I checked it. It had 175,000 Miles on it and had 150 psi all cylinders, Dry. At 95 ibs , it will just about fire. Any engine I have ever worked on, (been a few) you want between 150-175, low comp maybe 135, High compression engines (11-1) about 200.

hercimer01 MSG #313, 08-14-2013 09:00 PM
      Doing it wet brought them all up 10 PSI each.
I ran into another mechanic and he said the same thing you said.
What were your numbers after you rebuilt it?


hercimer01 MSG #314, 08-16-2013 12:34 AM
      I put the car back together. When I did I found the Boost line from the intake manifold to the fuel pressure regulator and the MAP sensor had rotten fittings. So I deleted the BBV, and put all new rubber fittings on the line.

I think that took care of my ailments as far as my times go. The Boost line to the fuel pressure regulator was leaking. I assume that was causing fuel starvation. I can't wait to get it down to the track and try it again!

I'm still not convinced what the cylinder pressure test values should be.


hercimer01 MSG #315, 08-17-2013 05:47 PM
      I was just trying to get into mid 13s. I almost made it to 12!
The boost line to the fuel pressure regulator and MAP sensor was loose!
While I was in there I also deleted the BBV.





[This message has been edited by hercimer01 (edited 08-23-2013).]

hercimer01 MSG #316, 08-17-2013 05:53 PM
      I also got a reply back from intense about the cylinder pressures. It looks like a rebuild down the road.

Allen,
Those numbers are very low; around 130 psi is acceptable but worn and perfect would be over 150 psi. They are, however, very even meaning there is no broken piston rings or blown gaskets etc. The rings are just very worn.

Thanks,

Chris

Chris; Technician, sales rep, & technology information.

INTENSE Racing


hercimer01 MSG #317, 08-23-2013 04:52 PM
      Looky what I bought! 17X7

Now I just need to save up for new shoes!





GADJet MSG #318, 08-26-2013 04:36 PM
      Ive got some Motegui FF7s on my 88gt. I like them but I think I am swapping back to my stockers...

hercimer01 MSG #319, 08-27-2013 01:55 AM
      The Lady I bought the car from let her teenage son drive this Fiero. That is how the motor is blown at only 49,000 miles. He also bent a rim so it wobbles at 12 miles an hour and 70. I have to swap rims, I do like the lace wheels too.

hercimer01 MSG #320, 01-09-2014 11:40 PM
      I won this today on EBay for 75 shipped!



hercimer01 MSG #321, 01-18-2014 04:58 PM
      OK, so I got the new tach.
I modded the housing so it will fit.
I put the 1Meg ohm trimmer pot in place of R14. This tach is the less desirable one because of the face so its not covered as far as I can find. The PC board is different than most covered MODs.

This is mine and how I did it.
Edit: Make sure to run the Tach Gauge Ground wire (black) to the ECM C1 pin 13 MAP ground. I ran mine to the back of the gauge and it showed over 20PSI of boost which is not correct.




Edited because i just tried it and it worked.

[This message has been edited by hercimer01 (edited 09-21-2014).]

hercimer01 MSG #322, 01-18-2014 04:59 PM
     

hercimer01 MSG #323, 01-18-2014 06:21 PM
      This is the car running
I still have to wire in the Green wire to the MAP signal.



I calibrated it with the Torque App. ( there's an app for that LOL)


hercimer01 MSG #324, 01-23-2014 01:42 AM
      The needles before and after.



Testors Pactra RC78.



nosrac MSG #325, 01-24-2014 04:26 AM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by hercimer01:


I calibrated it with the Torque App. ( there's an app for that LOL)


Can you log Fuel Trim Cell with Torque? I'm doing some tuning and can't find that PID.


hercimer01 MSG #326, 01-25-2014 03:44 AM
      I have seen the PIDS for fuel trim on Torque, I would imagine they could be logged.

hercimer01 MSG #327, 01-25-2014 03:46 AM
      This is what I came up with.
I used GIMP photo-editing freeware to edit them.

https://drive.google.com/fi...Tkk/edit?usp=sharing I printed directly from this to plain white paper.
This pic is only a Low Res JPG

Courtesy of 85GT_3800SC


This is the back-lighting. I think it looks OK printed onto white paper then with the gauge face glued on to it with a light coat of contact spray.
https://docs.google.com/fil...RHdhOFY2WmFwRTg/edit

This pic is only a Low Res JPG

Courtesy of 85GT_3800SC

These are the GIMP Files For editing If anyone wants them.
https://drive.google.com/fi...Tkk/edit?usp=sharing
https://docs.google.com/fil...RHdhOFY2WmFwRTg/edit

Gimp Free Ware.
http://www.gimp.org/

[This message has been edited by hercimer01 (edited 02-01-2014).]

hercimer01 MSG #328, 02-01-2014 05:15 AM
      I'm trying to adjust the boost gauge and it seems to be acting weird.
Maybe someone could tell me if this correct?
Here are some reference voltages.
http://www.robietherobot.com/storm/mapsensor.htm

This is with the key on, engine off.


This is with the engine at idle.
Something seems to be wacked out.



I have a ZZP tune with a 3.4 pulley. Otherwise stock.
If anyone has any ideas, please help.


hercimer01 MSG #329, 02-02-2014 12:43 AM
      Its all back together for now. I need to recalibrate the tach one last time because I redid the overlay again.




hercimer01 MSG #330, 02-02-2014 12:46 AM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by hercimer01:

I'm trying to adjust the boost gauge and it seems to be acting weird.
Maybe someone could tell me if this correct?
Here are some reference voltages.
http://www.robietherobot.com/storm/mapsensor.htm

This is with the key on, engine off.
-------------

This is with the engine at idle.
Something seems to be wacked out.
--------------


I have a ZZP tune with a 3.4 pulley. Otherwise stock.
If anyone has any ideas, please help.

I checked my Tahoe with Torque and it reads the same at idle. Like -20PSI


fieroaddicted (service@parkstreetrv.ca) MSG #331, 02-02-2014 03:51 PM
      What is this gauge out of? It's probably ok I would think. I take it the car is running well?

Nice build by the way... I see i have the same "Eaton Inside" sticker on my back window. lol


hercimer01 MSG #332, 02-02-2014 09:20 PM
      Yes the car has never ran better. Knock on wood.

I got the gauge on eBay from Fieroaddiction. It's a later one that's all I know.


hercimer01 MSG #333, 02-04-2014 12:03 AM
      It's hard getting the lighting just right. The overlays look good but getting the distribution is a challenge.



hercimer01 MSG #334, 02-08-2014 01:36 AM
     
Notice I installed the Performance shift light too!!





Before. Notice how faded the needles are.


After.


hercimer01 MSG #335, 03-02-2014 10:39 AM
      I bought a low mileage L32 for it yesterday, 67K. (With wire harness and computer) From an 05 GTP. The PO put a Gen 3 supercharger on it because of the drive by wire. He was going to swap it into a truck but never did. I will port it and put a N* throttle body I already have.













hercimer01 MSG #336, 03-12-2014 01:14 AM
      I got the Gen V Back on today.















I got some nice bolts for it.


[This message has been edited by hercimer01 (edited 03-08-2015).]

hercimer01 MSG #337, 03-17-2014 11:43 PM
      It is an L67. I was had.



[This message has been edited by hercimer01 (edited 03-20-2014).]

hercimer01 MSG #338, 03-31-2014 02:38 AM
      I picked up a set of INTENSE-Racining 1.9 Ratio Rockers in the Mall.
I am literally afraid to drive the car on the streets now, it was scary fast before.
I started it and it sounds good,but haven't test driven it yet.
I didn't want to wake up the neighbors at 11:30 on a Sun. night.









I cleaned out the stud holes with a QTip and compressed air






Then I torqued them to 11 FT Lbs, +90 deg with red Lock Tight.




Then I started it up after I did the other side just the same.




hercimer01 MSG #339, 04-20-2014 12:51 AM
      Finally got to race it today! I got into the twelves!



[This message has been edited by hercimer01 (edited 05-26-2014).]

ignorant prodigy (ignorantprodigy@aol.com) MSG #340, 04-21-2014 04:22 PM
      just read the whole post. worth the read, nicely done!

hercimer01 MSG #341, 05-26-2014 02:55 AM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by ignorant prodigy:

just read the whole post. worth the read, nicely done!


Thanks!

My nose badge fell off. So I put this on.

[This message has been edited by hercimer01 (edited 05-26-2014).]

hercimer01 MSG #342, 06-02-2014 01:15 AM
      There is Archie.



And the run at the Dells.



[This message has been edited by hercimer01 (edited 06-02-2014).]

Archie (archie@v8archie.com) MSG #343, 06-02-2014 07:46 AM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by hercimer01:

There is Archie.





I had fun running tandem with you on the way up to the Dells Saturday morning.

Archie


hercimer01 MSG #344, 06-03-2014 01:08 AM
     

hercimer01 MSG #345, 06-03-2014 01:30 AM
      Just a note, I got 31 MPG on the highway coming back. It was 26 MPG before I added the rockers.

solman105 MSG #346, 06-29-2014 11:36 AM
      I love the thread; I'm just starting my 3800sc build, gathering all the necessary pieces now.
My wiring harness is mostly complete; I got it out of a pick and pull but I had accidentally (absent-mindlessly) cut it at what I think was the ABS module and past the relay box going into the passenger compartment. I haven't broken down the harness yet, but I was wondering if you ran into any problems in either area? I'd like to hope that the ABS is unnecessary and the other wires that I cut went to the display, car power, and OBDII connector.

Thanks!


my-fiero (s.van.dongen@philips.com) MSG #347, 07-02-2014 08:19 AM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by hercimer01:

I calibrated it with the Torque App. ( there's an app for that LOL)


How?
is this whit a bluetooth ?

Please more info

Thanks


jmbishop (jmbishop05@aol.com) MSG #348, 08-06-2014 04:12 PM
      Yes, you can buy the adaptor for $10-$20 on ebay, just search elm327. The app is free unless you decide to spend a few extra $ for the pro features. I bought the pro version just because it was a great app and wanted to give back to the developer.

[This message has been edited by jmbishop (edited 08-06-2014).]

hercimer01 MSG #349, 09-22-2014 03:52 AM
      My next Mod.
I made this drawing today. I went to the pick and pull and got a one touch module for the windows from a 97 Bonneville and some lighted switches from a Grand Prix.

[This message has been edited by hercimer01 (edited 09-26-2014).]

hercimer01 MSG #350, 09-26-2014 11:34 PM
      This was my mock up. It was all crimped together with cheap splices, but that was just for testing. When I installed it I did solder it all together. I cut out the old window switch socket and and soldered in this harness. I only put the one touch on the drivers side to keep in line with stock appearances. The passenger switch was just the switch. I ended up epoxying the switches into the switch panel after i trimmed it up a bit.



hercimer01 MSG #351, 09-27-2014 12:10 AM
     

[This message has been edited by hercimer01 (edited 09-28-2014).]

johnyrottin (johnharbour@hotmail.com) MSG #352, 09-28-2014 08:45 AM
      What are the window switches out of? What did you have to modify to get them in?

hercimer01 MSG #353, 09-28-2014 08:00 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by johnyrottin:

What are the window switches out of? What did you have to modify to get them in?


The switches are from a 98 Grand Prix. The one touch module is from a 97 Bonneville. I had to trim the opening for the switches a bit with a file. Then I used 60 second epoxy on the back side to hold them in. I finished off the trim plate with a coat of DupliColor Trim Paint. I also glued the center console rubber back together and painted the ashtray and cigarette lighter plate.

[This message has been edited by hercimer01 (edited 09-28-2014).]

hercimer01 MSG #354, 10-26-2014 11:57 PM
      Ive been tinkering again. Some sleepy HIDs will be on the stove for this winter.
The grey box is a variable power supply. I'm running 13.5v to a 270 ohm resister which drops it down to 6.6v.
Each diode can handle 3.3v max and are wired in series.





I used this as a reference.

[This message has been edited by hercimer01 (edited 10-27-2014).]

hercimer01 MSG #355, 10-27-2014 12:04 AM
      Are red angel eyes illegal? I want to put some in at least for the shows.





RCR (rcrabine@comcast.net) MSG #356, 11-02-2014 06:09 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by hercimer01:

Ive been tinkering again. Some sleepy HIDs will be on the stove for this winter.
The grey box is a variable power supply. I'm running 13.5v to a 270 ohm resister which drops it down to 6.6v.
Each diode can handle 3.3v max and are wired in series.




Cool project I've always wanted to do...

FYI, 3.3V is not the max voltage for the LED. It is the forward voltage drop across the LED. The thing to be concerned about is current. Add the two Vfwd's for the LEDs and subtract from the source voltage. This difference is the voltage across the resistor. Divide this by the resistor value to get the current. Also watch the power across the resistor, which is the current squared times the voltage across it.

Bob


knarfluna (knarfluna215@yahoo.com) MSG #357, 12-28-2014 03:58 PM
      WOW

Great read and pics!

I am just starting my swap....having somebody do it for me...at least the major stuff.

Im pumped

I may have a few questions a bit later

thanks


hercimer01 MSG #358, 01-22-2015 02:08 AM
     







hercimer01 MSG #359, 03-15-2015 02:13 AM
     
I used Danyels 90MM buckets with my 60MM projectors. I had to modify them.













hercimer01 MSG #360, 04-14-2015 01:54 AM
      I installed a boost gauge in the pillar. Nothing fancy. Next i need an AFR gauge so I can drop the pulley size more.
It's running 8-9 PSI boost.



Koert MSG #361, 05-07-2015 08:01 PM
      Awesome threat! Did you get those red lights on there? They will look so awesome! I need to see it man

hercimer01 MSG #362, 05-09-2015 01:58 AM
      Thanks!

I did get just the low beams wired up and working so I can drive it. I still need to put a finish on the buckets and run a power feeder from the battery to the front so I can finish wiring the high beams.

I figured out a way to do either white or red in the same halo. I will do that when the buckets are done.

My Fuel pump quit working due to corroded terminals in the pump connector, I had to drop the tank again and rewire the pump. This time I soldered 10AWG wire directly onto the terminal lugs of the pump.

One thing at a time.


Koert MSG #363, 05-10-2015 08:45 PM
      That's awesome. You take a car make it awesome, look at it and think "hmm this can be better" And actually make it even better

hercimer01 MSG #364, 05-27-2015 01:48 AM
      I have had to finish the battery relocation before i can finish wiring the high beams. This is my progress so far.
I found this some where on the web.









hercimer01 MSG #365, 05-30-2015 01:49 AM
     

hercimer01 MSG #366, 05-30-2015 06:11 PM
      Final installation.


ltlfrari (dave_ellis_@hotmail.com) MSG #367, 06-18-2015 08:24 AM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by hercimer01:

I have had to finish the battery relocation before i can finish wiring the high beams. This is my progress so far.
I found this some where on the web.






That somewhere would be me!
I also weld a short length of rod to the front of the box, just above the floor so that the lip on the base of the battery fits under it. That stops the battery from tipping backwards and the clamp holds the back down.
I stick a sheet of thin plastic (something like the stuff a skylight might be made out of) to the front face where the battery slides in and glue a short length of PVC pipe (about a quarter inch long) into the holes so that the battery terminals cannot touch bare metal.

[This message has been edited by ltlfrari (edited 06-18-2015).]

hercimer01 MSG #368, 06-23-2015 11:36 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by ltlfrari:


That somewhere would be me!
I also weld a short length of rod to the front of the box, just above the floor so that the lip on the base of the battery fits under it. That stops the battery from tipping backwards and the clamp holds the back down.
I stick a sheet of thin plastic (something like the stuff a skylight might be made out of) to the front face where the battery slides in and glue a short length of PVC pipe (about a quarter inch long) into the holes so that the battery terminals cannot touch bare metal.



Thanks! I was afraid about posting other peoples stuff. I'm glad you like it. By under the front of the box you mean, forward, I bolted in a bent L channel across the top of the battery to hold it down. The clamp, I welded a nut to the bottom of the box to secure the back of the battery. I like the idea of the plastic sheet. However I am concerned with the width of the battery in the tray. It's about 1/2 inch wider than the battery. I'm trying to figure out what do to keep it from sliding sideways. Any ideas?


hercimer01 MSG #369, 07-20-2015 12:24 AM
      Slow going but I'm working on it. Still gotta connect the starter and ground after I disconnect the battery of course.



[This message has been edited by hercimer01 (edited 07-20-2015).]

hercimer01 MSG #370, 07-24-2015 07:30 PM
      I learned how to TIG weld today!







jaybug56 (jaybug56@gmail.com) MSG #371, 07-25-2015 12:07 AM
      Nice welds

hercimer01 MSG #372, 07-30-2015 11:57 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by jaybug56:

Nice welds


Thanks.

I got the car all taken apart. I'm working on wrapping up the swap install and some extra stuff too!. I'm having some of the hardware Cadmium plated for some extra bling.

Before (prepped)



After

[This message has been edited by hercimer01 (edited 07-31-2015).]

hercimer01 MSG #373, 07-31-2015 12:11 AM
      Working on the projector wiring too now that the battery is up front.
This is the stock Fiero headlight connector going into the male version of it with the diode installed so the lows will stay on with the high beams. I still have to wire in the projectors to the battery through the relays.





hercimer01 MSG #374, 07-31-2015 12:50 AM
      Gonna redo the ICM wiring too. I got a bunch of extra pins so I can fab an extra harness.



hercimer01 MSG #375, 08-02-2015 03:29 AM
      This where i'm mounting the Hella relays. They are pretty cool because it has two contacts for the output. One for left and one for right. Two relays one for low and one for high beams.







There is a harness that runs under the radiator. That is where I ran the harness to the drivers side from the passenger side relays.



hercimer01 MSG #376, 08-03-2015 03:01 AM
     



hercimer01 MSG #377, 08-26-2015 12:20 AM
      I got my Zinc plating back today.



Still work cleaning up the harness too.



These are metri-pack 150 series pull to seat. P/N 12A12002 on Amazon from CrimpSupply.com




[This message has been edited by hercimer01 (edited 09-11-2015).]

Ryanap333 (ryanap333@aol.com) MSG #378, 08-29-2015 07:29 PM
      Timm/phonedawgs if you read this please contact me asap in regards to my harness and computer...

hercimer01 MSG #379, 08-30-2015 11:42 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by Ryanap333:

Timm/phonedawgs if you read this please contact me asap in regards to my harness and computer...


Sorry. Wrong person here.

I do wiring myself for a living on aircraft.
I post progress pics on the details like this so people can learn from it.


hercimer01 MSG #380, 09-11-2015 12:41 AM
      Getting close to wrapping it up for FieroRama.
I've been detailing everything.









hercimer01 MSG #381, 09-12-2015 03:47 AM
     


hercimer01 MSG #382, 09-16-2015 12:04 AM
      She's finally ready. This was Sunday morning. The weather was perfect for the show.







85wickedfiero (wickedrex_91@hotmail.com) MSG #383, 10-17-2015 10:54 PM
      How much does a good series 2 3.8sc go for these days?

[This message has been edited by 85wickedfiero (edited 10-17-2015).]

hercimer01 MSG #384, 10-18-2015 11:28 PM
      I got roocked on that spare engine. It was supposed to be a low mileage L32. I paid 1,300 with the wire harness and the computer. It's low mileage but it turned out to be an L67.

For a good series 2 L67 you should be around 500. Low mileage maybe more.


85wickedfiero (wickedrex_91@hotmail.com) MSG #385, 10-20-2015 09:24 PM
      There's a u pull it in my area has 5 series 2 engines for 250 a piece, but you gotta pull them yourself, I'm thinking of snatching one up for myself.

j bf1 (jbf1@hotmail.com) MSG #386, 10-21-2015 11:27 AM
      I like your headlights they look awesome man. Where can I get a set?

 
quote
Originally posted by hercimer01:

This where i'm mounting the Hella relays. They are pretty cool because it has two contacts for the output. One for left and one for right. Two relays one for low and one for high beams.







There is a harness that runs under the radiator. That is where I ran the harness to the drivers side from the passenger side relays.





j bf1 (jbf1@hotmail.com) MSG #387, 10-21-2015 11:34 AM
      I like your headlights they look awesome man. Where can I get a set?

 
quote
Originally posted by hercimer01:

This where i'm mounting the Hella relays. They are pretty cool because it has two contacts for the output. One for left and one for right. Two relays one for low and one for high beams.







There is a harness that runs under the radiator. That is where I ran the harness to the drivers side from the passenger side relays.





hercimer01 MSG #388, 10-22-2015 12:23 AM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by j bf1:

I like your headlights they look awesome man. Where can I get a set?



http://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum4/HTML/068782.html

http://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum4/HTML/054226.html

http://www.rallylights.com/...halogen-dot-sae.html

http://www.rallylights.com/...headlamp-module.html


hercimer01 MSG #389, 11-29-2015 04:06 AM
      I finished this today. Works great on the work bench, now I have to put it in the car. It's laid up now for the winter so I can do my winter projects.







pcgold MSG #390, 11-29-2015 10:38 AM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by 85wickedfiero:

How much does a good series 2 3.8sc go for these days?



Here is one in my area. For your 'merkuns, that's $300 Cdn, which is about $200US. Even if it's just a lump, might be worth it. I'm thinking on it.

http://www.kijiji.ca/v-engi...hNavigationFlag=true


hercimer01 MSG #391, 12-09-2015 12:26 AM
      Gathering up mods to keep me busy this winter.
It would be nice to find some electrochromic (auto dimming) side mirrors. It sucks sitting at a stop light at night.





jaybug56 (jaybug56@gmail.com) MSG #392, 12-09-2015 06:23 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by hercimer01:

Gathering up mods to keep me busy this winter.
It would be nice to find some electrochromic (auto dimming) side mirrors. It sucks sitting at a stop light


They make those?


hercimer01 MSG #393, 12-11-2015 02:08 AM
      Yup. This mirror is from a 98 Escalade. Tahoe mirrors are the same too except they don't have controls for the headlights. This mirror does something to delay the head lights too but i'm not sure what for. It's not on the print but it is on the mirror (2 pin connector)



jaybug56 (jaybug56@gmail.com) MSG #394, 12-11-2015 07:34 AM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by hercimer01:

Yup. This mirror is from a 98 Escalade. Tahoe mirrors are the same too except they don't have controls for the headlights. This mirror does something to delay the head lights too but i'm not sure what for. It's not on the print but it is on the mirror (2 pin connector)


I wonder if corvettes have that option. Those mirrors look good.


hercimer01 MSG #395, 12-13-2015 05:54 PM
      The mirror is Gentex which is in alot of different car makes. I found theses on a 1999 Buick LeSabre Limited. Personally I don't like the looks of the Corvette side mirrors because of the telescoping look which to me doesn't flow with the styling of a fiero. These are similar, fiberglass and easily modded to fit right. (I hope)

Maybe these will work. They have power,defrost and auto dim.







hercimer01 MSG #396, 12-26-2015 01:43 AM
      This is with power applied, both mirrors hooked up and the photo cell blocked off.



And this is with power applied, both mirrors hooked up and a flashlight in the photo cell.



hercimer01 MSG #397, 01-04-2016 01:31 AM
      Any interest? I've been buying up all the ones I can find to sell.
http://www.fiero.nl/forum/F.../HTML/073507.html#p0

[This message has been edited by hercimer01 (edited 02-23-2016).]

Gwhite18 (geoffwhite18@hotmail.com) MSG #398, 01-07-2016 11:40 PM
      I might be interested in one. But I would be scavenging the cd player out of it to fix the one in my camaro. Long story but mine ended up in my dad's 1998 gtp.

FieroJuice (fierojuice@gmail.com) MSG #399, 01-09-2016 11:53 PM
      Interest here for a plug & play.

Awesome thread by the way. Keep up the great work keeping us updated too.


hercimer01 MSG #400, 05-20-2016 01:32 AM
     

kcn0 (kcn0@hotmail.com) MSG #401, 06-20-2016 01:49 PM
      Nice ride. I live near you and would like to see it whenever you are available. Check your PMs for my contact info.

Thanks!


RCR (rcrabine@comcast.net) MSG #402, 06-21-2016 01:03 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by hercimer01:

The mirror is Gentex which is in alot of different car makes. I found theses on a 1999 Buick LeSabre Limited. Personally I don't like the looks of the Corvette side mirrors because of the telescoping look which to me doesn't flow with the styling of a fiero. These are similar, fiberglass and easily modded to fit right. (I hope)

Maybe these will work. They have power,defrost and auto dim.




Have you mounted the mirrors yet? Pics??

Bob


hercimer01 MSG #403, 06-22-2016 01:47 PM
      Sorry. Life got busy. The rear view mirror is in. MP3 Pontiac CD player to. I put in Dynamat also with 2 layers on the rear firewall even under the computer must.

I will post pics tonight.


hercimer01 MSG #404, 09-21-2016 12:46 AM
     

adm927 (adm1476@aol.com) MSG #405, 09-21-2016 01:44 AM
      looks pretty fast so what was the time? Was it quarter mile, or eighth mile?

hercimer01 MSG #406, 09-22-2016 12:07 AM
      This was this past weekend on premium with junk in the trunk.

[This message has been edited by hercimer01 (edited 09-22-2016).]

hercimer01 MSG #407, 09-22-2016 12:16 AM
      This was 2 years ago. The car was completely empty (3000LBS w/ me in it) and on race gas



hercimer01 MSG #408, 11-18-2016 01:05 AM
      I put some LEDs in. Nice.













Before


After notice the faded needles

[This message has been edited by hercimer01 (edited 04-04-2017).]

AustinH (7persons4@gmail.com) MSG #409, 09-22-2018 12:01 AM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by hercimer01:

The needles before and after.



Testors Pactra RC78.


hercimer01,
How did you get the needles on and off without messing the position of the coil up? How did you recalibrate the true position of the needle's offset on the coil (NOT the potentionemter way)??


hercimer01 MSG #410, 12-15-2018 12:16 PM
      Sorry it took so long to post.


First I took a good picture of the position of the needles resting position before i started. I popped them off with an upholstery tool, protect the gauge face with a piece of paper under the tool when your prying. They come off ok, it's a little unnerving but doable. When you put them back on, just be sure and put them back where they were when you started. You can verify the speed with your GPS app in your phone and the rest of them aren't critical for position. I haven't noticed anything worthy of concern. Since you have a 3800SC, I used the Torque app to verify the tach. You might have to reposition the needle so its correct.


[This message has been edited by hercimer01 (edited 12-15-2018).]

hercimer01 MSG #411, 12-25-2018 01:26 AM
      I'm still here. I've been painting Ed's 88GT for the past year, Mine was in his garage. I really missed it, but i have stocked up a few parts for it. Now I just have to get off my but and do it.

Headers




And Gen 2 headlights. One of my Gen 1 headlights melted.

[This message has been edited by hercimer01 (edited 12-25-2018).]

hercimer01 MSG #412, 01-03-2019 11:12 PM
     

hercimer01 MSG #413, 08-19-2019 11:12 PM
      Well, i'm putting in the OEM subwoofer system with a Tang Band W5-1138SMF 5-1/4" sub.









These are corners from an electrical box I cut up.




I went with the larger metric plastic screws for the sides.












I got the exit wrong for the wires, I have too cut it open and reroute them to the back.
Also I read somewher to tune for the Tang Band the port tube needs to be trimmed back 2" and poly fill needs to be added inside the tube and enclosure. Anyone see this before?