88 Coupe 4.9 Swap Thread
Topic started by: josef644, Date: 08-26-2009 06:29 PM
Original thread: http://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum3/HTML/000112.html


josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #1, 08-26-2009 06:29 PM
      I have been gathering the items that I needed to get a Caddie 4.9 swapped into an 88 coupe. I went to Port St Lucie, Fl to get this coupe that was listed in the Mall here, and brought it back to Texas the last of June.
Costs so far:
87-88 4 cyl throttle cable $30.00
1991 Deville $400.00
Bead Blast Valve covers $20.00
car $450.00
Fuel $385.00
Eats $200.00
Water pump inlet $ 55.00
Bracket $ 25.00
Muffler $100.00
Cat Convert $ 65.00
VATS bypass $ 31.00
Fuel Pump $ 80.00
Fuel Hoses $ 25.00
CV shaft $ 55.00
Belt Tensioner $ 18.00
Belt idler $ 12.00
Welding $ 50.00
TBI spacer $20.00
Shift cable adjustable $30.00
Shift cable plain $25.00
Shifter & asst parts $40.00
PCV grommet $23.00
Tach Mod Parts $ 8.00
Dist wire connectors $12.00
Pop rivets $ 6.00
Brake peddle cover $4.00
Dist cap $12.00
Battery support $30.00
CV boot $16.00
McMaster Carr $13.00
2 Fiero transmission mounts $20.00
2 Buick transmission mount brackets $15.00
2 Summitt mtr mts $30.00
1 Vibe radio $26.00
Injector servicing kit $24.00
Ultrasonic cleaner machine $31.00
Timing cover gasket set $20.00
Coolant filler neck $38.00
Water inlet welding $15.00
New NAPA lifetime Water Pump $58.00
Timing cover Crankshaft seal $8.00
Mandrel bent pipe $112.00
Exhaust hangers $12.00
Battery tray and two new front cradle bolts, The Fiero Store, $50.00 shipped
Seat skin $40.00
Mr Mikes $425.00
Fiero Addiction Shifter bracket $58.00. Sold it to a PFF member for 45.00 so I am only out $13.00 here
Wiper Blades $11.00
New Lateral link for heat to frame brace $62.00
Tan Wheelskin $37.00
Machine shop charge for making me a 14mm bushing $25.00
Insulation from J C WHitney $38.00 shipped
AC hose adapters etc $83.00 Shipped
45* angle adapters shipped $20.00
Firewall insulation pattern $26.00 shipped
AC clutch wiring connector NAPA EC12 $18.51
Wal Mart Group 75 Battery $52.00
Napa radiator cap 20 lb $5.00
Napa radiator cap 16 lb $5.00.
Pair of resonated chrome exhaust tips $42.00 shipped
Bosch III injectors $80.00
Brake Slider Boots $34.00
Kits to rebuild front calipers $10.00
Brake Pad all 4 wheels $30.00
Bendix Master cylinder $25.00
RayBestos parking brake cable $24.00
Two rear side marker lights 24.00
Parking brake connector NAPA $3.00
85 Camaro air intake duct $23.00 shipped
Paint $70
Power Window motors (2) $53.00
Duct, fender to air filter housing $19.00
V6 air filter housing and mount $20.00
Air filter $9.00
Help # 21126 parking brake connector
NAPA 675-1549 parking brake connector
Auto DImming mirror $25.00
I have forgotten something I am sure. I will add these items in as I remember them

I had purchased a whole 91 Deville around the first of April that had a 93 4.9. It was installed but was never finished. There was a problem with the different 91's round 7 wire transmission plug and the 93's 4T60E connector. I had removed the engine in mid April and cleaned it up for the install. I removed the entire engine wiring harness for my swap. $400.00 for the whole car.



I had decided to go with the 93 4T60E. The 88 coupe was a stick shift car. I located and switched over everything needed for an automatic. Fierocarparts in Ft Worth, Texas. and I traded some of the things out with each other. I think he got the short end of the stick. $40.00 gas and eats for one day. I kept my 88's manual CV axels.
I removed the valve covers,and located an extra one with the oil filer hole. The valve covers were nasty, as the black finish was peeling bad. I had them bead blasted and painted the with some epoxy silver paint and a coat of clear on top. Free, swapped some parts the shop needed for the work.

I had located the correct transmission mount brackets at a wrecking yard in Lufkin,Texas. About $15.00. FieroAddiction had shut down and was not selling any engine mounts. I was able to locate a CAD image of the front engine mounting bracket, and had one made at a local welding shop, about $25.00
Mount photo to go here soon.
I am using Micky_Moose's idler method to rout the belt http://www.fiero.nl/forum/A...050818-2-052483.html
Spent a few hours fitting it on the 88 cradle and rolled it under my 88.


Raised her up in the engine bay

Today I removed my drivers seat and laid the 91's fuel injection harness on top of the 4.9. I fed the ECM connectors into the cars cabin threw the square hole.


After an hour of untangling the wires I plugged in one connector, the distributor one. There is about 40 inches of excess wire I'll have to remove so I can lay it out and get it routed where I want it to lay.

I am using Mickey_Moose's wiring thread to build my harness. http://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum2/HTML/098096.html
After I finish the fuel injection part of the harness I will add the C203/C500. This is where the two will join together. I wanted to have the biggest part of the harness on the bottom so the rest will not get tangled up while trying to marry the two.

I have purchased a muffler from a place in Canada that custom builds , and a 89's 6000 driver side CV shaft. I have a new AC delco 88 V6 fuel pump to drop into the tank.
More later, tired of typing all of this up..
Joe Crawford

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 10-02-2010).]

concrete (concretesteel@msn.com) MSG #2, 08-26-2009 08:47 PM
      wow i have the same car so let me tell you it is soo much fun to drive. pff fourm is the place for info it told me every thing I needed to know this is the best runing car i have had



falcon_ca (luc_giguere@hotmail.com) MSG #3, 08-26-2009 10:08 PM
      It seems you planned to do a lot of work with the engine inside the car.

I am slowly preparing a 4.9 for a swap, collecting parts here and there. I planned to build the harness with the engine outside.

I ordered mounts from fieroaddiction and also a memcal reprogrammation but I never received them. He got ther money I got nothing.

My swap is for a Formula, so for sure I will follow yours.



billpapps MSG #4, 08-26-2009 10:32 PM
      Im going to make the same swooop. I got the engine out of the 85 fiero. Cleaning and Cleaning. Painting.
I got a 93 caddy all busted up Front . Big problem. I should have never started driving the caddy. Now Im wanting to put all the nice toys in the
feiro. Caddy fun to drive also. I guess I need more telling me how fun the Feiro will be with the 4.9 is


jokerb90 MSG #5, 08-26-2009 11:22 PM
      My 88 coupe is in process as well, torn into a million pieces in the garage. When complete, 7730, Allante intake, centerforce clutch, I have most of the parts, its the little things that keep hangin me up (don't forget the flywheel bolts....) Should be a heck of a ride when she's finally rollin....

Frizlefrak (dcarson@elp.rr.com) MSG #6, 08-26-2009 11:50 PM
      Well, as the owner of an 88 coupe with the 4.9 for 3 years now, I can tell you that you're gonna love the swap. It will be worth every ounce of effort and then some. Keep us posted on the progress.....

Here's mine.

[This message has been edited by Frizlefrak (edited 08-26-2009).]

josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #7, 08-27-2009 09:25 AM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by falcon_ca:

It seems you planned to do a lot of work with the engine inside the car.

I am slowly preparing a 4.9 for a swap, collecting parts here and there. I planned to build the harness with the engine outside.

I ordered mounts from fieroaddiction and also a memcal reprogrammation but I never received them. He got ther money I got nothing.

My swap is for a Formula, so for sure I will follow yours.




I am just doing the wiring with the engine in the engine bay. I want it to fit right, and look nice and in orderly fashion. I am gonna remove the engine to have my exhaust made and fitted up. I will add the idler pully , AC hose and that type of stuff before I place it back in the car. I should have done these before I raised the engone up in the body, but I wanted to get it up in the bay so I could finish up the wiring. It went up and in very easy, I had more trouble raising up my Duke a few years back, stuff hangin up on the rear. My transmission dipstick got hung up on this one. I had to push it closer to the engine about 1/2". The rest was a piece of cake.

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 08-28-2009).]

fierocarparts (doyouneedparts@yahoo.com) MSG #8, 08-27-2009 11:07 AM
      Looking good Joe! Can't wait to see it in person. I'll let you work out all the details and then I'll pick your brain! I sold my 88 GT this last weekend so now I am working on getting the Fino completed. I have to fix a couple of things on the GT for the new owner BUT mainly focusing on the Fino.
Keep us posted!



Mickey_Moose (edmontonfieros@shaw.ca) MSG #9, 08-27-2009 03:21 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by falcon_ca:

I am slowly preparing a 4.9 for a swap, collecting parts here and there. I planned to build the harness with the engine outside.



...I find it way easier to built the harness in the car - easier to get the correct lengths and run the wiring where you want and it fit. But, whatever works for you.


 
quote
Originally posted by josef644:

I have been gathereing the items that I needed to get a Caddie 4.9 swapped into an 88 coupe. I went to Port St Lucie, Fl to get this coupe that was listed in the Mall here, and brought it back to Texas the last of June. $450.00 for the car. $385.00 for fuel back and forth, $200.00 for eats. $317.00 for a new fuelpump that had quit in Pensacole, Fl at Pep Boys.



Hope it all goes well, looks like you have it all under control.


josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #10, 08-27-2009 09:23 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by Mickey_Moose:


Hope it all goes well, looks like you have it all under control.


Just following you and Fieroseverywhere's advise. I've had no real problems so far. I have misplaced my Bakers Electronics VATS bypass, and my 88 V6 oil pressure switch. I'll have to order a new ones, or just plan on letting Stickpony remove the bypass. I'm glad the bypass was only $25.00.

Micky_Moose, in one of your pictures I can see a chrome airbreather. What size was it? Did the breathing of hot air effect the running of the engine? I am thinking about locating a S10 4.3 V6 air breather that I can point to the air intake and attach a flue to it. If it will fit flat in TB area.

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 08-27-2009).]

josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #11, 08-28-2009 01:07 PM
      This morning I ohmed out tagged all eight injector pulse wires from the ECM connector, and routed them the way I want them to lay. I have to marry the 93 and 91 harnesses at this point. My engine injector harness is off of the 93 engine and is a bit different than the 91 ecm harness. You just need to know this part is not just plug and play, because the switch out of the two different years. I also ohmed out and tagged the 8 pulse wires off of the engine part of the harness. Do not rely on wire color alone. Some of these colors change when they get oil, heat, sunlight etc on them. I am going to retain the 93's wire layout across the engine. Tomorrow I will cut and solder the 16 wires and start on some of the sensors.
I have plugged all of the sensor connectors in along with the IAC. I have left about 24"s of wire on each connector. I also tagged all of the sensor wires on the ECM end before I cut them off for easy identification. I also untangeled all of the wires as best I could where they enter the ECM plugs. This cut down on half of the bulk of the birds nest there before I did it.

I have to work overnight tonight and Saterday night,will not get much done this weekend.

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 08-28-2009).]

arte444 (kakagiraffe@gmail.com) MSG #12, 08-28-2009 01:21 PM
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falcon_ca (luc_giguere@hotmail.com) MSG #13, 08-28-2009 03:13 PM
      josef644,

Did you figure out how you will run the heater hose from the top of the V8 to the back of the engine?

And what have you done with the heater output of the V8 water pump?

[This message has been edited by falcon_ca (edited 08-28-2009).]

josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #14, 08-28-2009 03:22 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by falcon_ca:

josef644,

Did you figure out how you will run the heater hose from the top of the V8 to the back of the engine?

And what have you done with the heater output of the V8 water pump?


I am gonna cap off the small inlet at the rear of the water pump inlet as the 88 has the return line merge back in near the rear of the coolant return pipe. The smaller outlet on the 4.9 thermostat housing will be my heater supply line. My coupe was a 4 cyl car so it has the water line at the rear side of the engine bay. I'll just rig me up an extension of some type and join them togeather. The same way Mickey_Moose did. (borrowed his picture):

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 08-28-2009).]

Raydar (raydarfiero@comcast.net) MSG #15, 08-28-2009 09:45 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by josef644:

I am gonna cap off the small inlet at the rear of the water pump inlet as the 88 has the return line merge back in near the rear of the coolant return pipe.
...


Do yourself a favor and fill that fitting with JB Weld or epoxy before you put the rubber cap on. (I removed the inlet housing from the back of the water pump plate to do this.)
After a few years those rubber caps will deteriorate and split. Usually at a most inopportune time.
I never had it happen to me, but I was behind someone on a run through the mountains, who had it happen.
We all saw the huge cloud of steam and thought it was smoke. Hilarity ensued. Not.


josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #16, 08-29-2009 01:37 AM
      I had that happen on a 302 Ford once. I use a short piece of heater hose, and fit a metal plug in the end. Put a clamp on it, then just slide it on the nipple, and tighten a second clamp. On these 4.9 swaps it will never be seen anyway. Those rubber caps are worthless.
Joe Crawford


Rickady88GT (rjkmfam@sbcglobal.net) MSG #17, 08-29-2009 12:50 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by falcon_ca:

josef644,

Did you figure out how you will run the heater hose from the top of the V8 to the back of the engine?

And what have you done with the heater output of the V8 water pump?

You can cut off the heater hose neck and turn it were you want to relocate the hose. In this case it is towards the tranny and away from the valve cover.

[This message has been edited by Rickady88GT (edited 08-29-2009).]

josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #18, 08-29-2009 01:33 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by Rickady88GT:

[QUOTE]Originally posted by falcon_ca:

josef644,

Did you figure out how you will run the heater hose from the top of the V8 to the back of the engine?

And what have you done with the heater output of the V8 water pump?

You can cut off the heater hose neck and turn it were you want to relocate the hose. In this case it is towards the tranny and away from the valve cover.


[/QUOTE]

On your build how did you run your VSS sensor wire? Did you lay your wires along the intake, down the passenger side of the engine, then to the VSS plug, or distrubitor end underneath the exhaust manifold to the VSS plug. I don't want to fry these two wires.
Joe Crawford

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 08-31-2009).]

josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #19, 08-31-2009 09:12 PM
      No work done today, had equipment problems at work this am. Man yanna

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 09-01-2009).]

Fieroseverywhere (caalon777@hotmail.com) MSG #20, 09-01-2009 02:13 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by Rickady88GT:





If I sent you a fuel rail would you modify it like this for me? I really hate having the fuel lines running accross the rocker covers. I'll pay you well for you time.

[This message has been edited by Fieroseverywhere (edited 09-01-2009).]

josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #21, 09-01-2009 02:45 PM
      FEW that is Rickady88GT's picture. I wouldn't have a clue on how to move those.

Today I made some progress:

8 ECM injector wires joined up
Dist wires
IAC wires
Coolant temperature sensor wires
About half of the transmission shift & converter clutch wires



I have to work 8 hours tomorrow am . I plan on finishing up the transmission wires and do the MAT and TPS.
Removed all of this today from the Caddie harness:

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 09-01-2009).]

Fieroseverywhere (caalon777@hotmail.com) MSG #22, 09-01-2009 04:47 PM
      My apoligies. I quoted him but wasn't specific as to who I was speaking to. Sorry about that.

Your progress looks great so far. Congrats on getting down to the nitty gritty. Bet your really starting to itch for that first test drive. I know I was at the point your at. Later Joe

EDIT: Where you mounting the MAP sensor? I found that I couldn't use the bracket that it comes attached to... not that I wanted to.

[This message has been edited by Fieroseverywhere (edited 09-01-2009).]

josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #23, 09-01-2009 05:14 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by Fieroseverywhere:

My apoligies. I quoted him but wasn't specific as to who I was speaking to. Sorry about that.

Your progress looks great so far. Congrats on getting down to the nitty gritty. Bet your really starting to itch for that first test drive. I know I was at the point your at. Later Joe

EDIT: Where you mounting the MAP sensor? I found that I couldn't use the bracket that it comes attached to... not that I wanted to.



Funny you should ask that. I just removed the air breather from my 89 GMC S-15 truck. It has the 2.8 V6. The diamater of the throttle body opening is the same as the 4.9 throttle body. I purchased a new air cleaner/throttle body gasket for this comparison. It appears that if I had a 1" extension the 2.8 air breather would be a perfect replacement for the Caddie stuff. I could point the snout to where I want it, and connect the 2.5/V6 air duct to the end. Instant Fiero type cold air intake. There is plenty of room to mount the MAP on the side of the air breather. Same as GM did on many of their cars. I need to mount my altenator on my engine to make sure it will not hit the altenator before I locate me a second 2.8 GMC/S-10 style breather. It looked real good there. If it will clear the altenator good I will snap a picture tomorrow before I put it back on my GMC.

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 09-05-2009).]

josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #24, 09-01-2009 05:46 PM
      I dropped off my 4T60E shifter arm , and the 125C shift cable bracket at the local welding ship for the trim and weld. I'll be able to put it in park as soon as I install the rear axels.

josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #25, 09-02-2009 06:19 PM
      Nothing done on my coupe today. I had a flat on my tractor. These are always fun to handle. That is, unless it falls on your foot the same time it falls on your wallet. $45.00 last time I had a flat on a rear tire to patch a tube. Well the only charge $1.00 for the patch, $44.00 to take the tube out and put it back in.

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 09-02-2009).]

josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #26, 09-03-2009 09:20 PM
      Tractor flat was $58.00 today. I had just enough in my pocket to pick up these from the welding shop. $20.00 more bucks:


I had the 90* angle straightened out, I had the shift arm flattened and shortened to 1 5/8" I'll try to get this on the transmission tomorrow and try it out.
No other progress today. Tractor flat has put mre two days behind on work.


BMTFIERO (bmtfiero@outlook.com) MSG #27, 09-03-2009 11:56 PM
      Wow Joe you have been busy

Tim


josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #28, 09-04-2009 04:52 PM
      Nothing new done today, double shift at my job.

josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #29, 09-05-2009 08:17 PM
      I will be able to get some work done on the coupe tomorrow as I will finally get some time off.

Happy Labor Day to all of you folks. Enjoy your weekend off.
Joe Crawford
Texas


olejoedad (welch.joe.714@gmail.com) MSG #30, 09-06-2009 11:39 AM
      FYI, I have a Formula with a 4.9/4T60E. If there is any info I can share with you to help you out, drop me a PM.

josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #31, 09-06-2009 12:13 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by olejoedad:

FYI, I have a Formula with a 4.9/4T60E. If there is any info I can share with you to help you out, drop me a PM.


Thanks for the offer. I will take you up on your offer as any problems arise. As of yet I am having fun. I am thinking that I might not get much done today, just enjoy the Holiday off.

Found this new on E Bay today. I purchased it for my swap. It will allow me to raise the air breather up so there is more clearence underneath:

$20.00 including shipping. The same guy had a used one for $10.00 more. Go figure that out, new $9.99. used $19.00

Update , got an e-mail this am, it should be here in three days. I'll post the measurements when it arrives

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 09-08-2009).]

josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #32, 09-07-2009 01:27 PM
      I deleated all of this post because it did not work.
Joe

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 10-31-2010).]

josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #33, 09-07-2009 07:56 PM
      I also posted this same question in MM 's wiring thread so it would be there when somone else need this answered.

Mickey_M or Fieroseverywhere,
I am adding my C500 to my 4.9 harness. I see where the pink wire "J" & "K" from the C500 are the injector feeds. I only have one of these as my car was a 2.5 Duke in its prior life. Can I feed both banks of four injectors off of this one feed, or do I need to locate/create a second injector feed for my red/white 4.9 injector harness? Is this asking to much for one wire to feed all eight injectors? I would think it only is feeding on one injector at a time as the ecm creates the ground to fire the injector.
Thanks
Joe Crawford


Fieroseverywhere (caalon777@hotmail.com) MSG #34, 09-08-2009 11:58 AM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by Fieroseverywhere:


I assume you mean C203. Under the console next to the shifter? While it might be possible to run both banks off on one wire if you up the fuse, I think its better to add the second wire. The C203 should have both wires running to it from the fuse panel. The 2.5 cars only have one wire coming out though. Just add the one pin and your golden. Double check that there are 2 fuses in place.

I think the ALDL has the same pins so you probably have extras somewhere. Not that a quick trip to the yard cant fix it either way.


josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #35, 09-08-2009 03:41 PM
      Thanks FEW.
Joe


josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #36, 09-11-2009 02:10 PM
      I got about 9 wires finished up today. The humidity is horrid out ther right now. Temperature is only 80, but is is sweat city.

Carrluvr (carrluvr@nycap.rr.com) MSG #37, 09-12-2009 09:53 AM
      Joe good to see that you are making progress. I have finished my C500 and C203 and now I am just shortening all the remaining wires to the ECU. The last thing I have to do before I can connect a battery and try to start mine is fix my water leak I have on the waterpump inlet. Hopefully I'll have that finished by Tuesday. Good luck.

josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #38, 09-12-2009 12:44 PM
      Didn't get much done this morning, It is still raining here. Flat on the wifes car, and the window came out of the track on my S15 GMC. Those little black plastic guides last about 18 months, then OUT she comes again. Had to fix both before I could play with my Pontiac. I am planning an a second attempt this afternoon around 2pm.

Did a few more wires this afternoon. Plan on a few more this evening.

I wired the MAT, MAP, TPS, EGR and OXY sensors this evening. I need to run all of th Pink/Blk wires tomorrow. Once I finish all of the pink/blk I will start with the C203/C500 merging with in the Cadillac Fuel Injection harness.

My adjustable shift cable was in todays mail. One more item in the "To Install Later " box. I have a box I put things in for later. I don't want some thing in the way right now so it will be easier to run some of the required wires up to the brake peddle ect. Converter clutch circut has to be added. Maybe a few others.

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 09-13-2009).]

josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #39, 09-13-2009 05:46 PM
      Wired in the VSS wires and the OXY sen wires today. Played in the cabin a bit, trying to organise the wires some. Temperature outside was only 85 today, but the humidity was 100%.
Here is the way it looks right now in the engine bay.



I plan on clipping the wires from the ECM leading to the ALDL tomorrow. After a chat with Dodgerunner yesterday, I am going to wire ADL position "M" into socket "E" in my ALDL. This way my 'Dodgerunner' cable might just work with the TunnerPro software. Worth a try. If it will work I am gonna also connect it in to the "M" socket. If I ever use someone elses cable it will still display data. I am going to get the wires togeather that merge with the C203 in the cabin, ignition, power stearing lead etc, and have them ready to solder in. I also want to extend the large ground wire with the 4 ECM ground leadsinto the engine bay, and ground it to the engine block tomorrow.


falcon_ca (luc_giguere@hotmail.com) MSG #40, 09-13-2009 08:34 PM
      Do you plan to install an engine oil radiator ?

On one of your pictures, it looks like you cancel the oil radiator hose fitting.



josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #41, 09-13-2009 09:38 PM
      I own page two. First time since I started here.

I do not plan on an oil cooler right now. I was reading a post by Ed Parks, ( Fiero Factory), a while back and he was stating that he did not prefer to use them. From his posting "we use 2 Dorman #090-040 20mm-1.5 drain plugs with a liberal amount of Permatex on the threads" Less problems with leaks I think he said. I am planning on running my exhaust out the rear with a round spun catalitic converter. Borrowed photo:


The front part of the cradle will not be heated by a converter and exhaust pipe like a 2.8 V6 is. I can add the oil cooler there later if I think I will need it. I did save the two metal lines that follow the shape of the rear of the block for the oil cooler if I installed one later. I plan on facrtory AC so this should be better for the compressor and AC hoses.

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 09-13-2009).]

fierocarparts (doyouneedparts@yahoo.com) MSG #42, 09-14-2009 08:32 AM
      I was on vacation last week. Glad to see that it is coming along so quickly for you. You know CopperBender is also working on a 4.9L 88, right? He has some good ideas also. I can see that with all the "local" 4.9L installs, mine should be a breeze.



Fieroseverywhere (caalon777@hotmail.com) MSG #43, 09-14-2009 10:13 AM
      For the injector harness, it can be removed from the fuel rail and the clips can be put back in from the bottom side. It makes it much cleaner looking without loom running accross the top of the fuel rail. Just a thought.

[This message has been edited by Fieroseverywhere (edited 09-14-2009).]

josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #44, 09-14-2009 10:17 AM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by Fieroseverywhere:

For the injector harness, it can be removed from the fuel rail and the clips can be put back in from the bottom side. It makes it much cleaner looking without loom running accross the top of the fuel rail. Just a thought.



That photo was a borrowed one to show how I plan on doing my exhaust. Mine is an 88.


twofatguys (brad@wheatoncomputer.com) MSG #45, 09-14-2009 10:22 AM
      Do you have an update on the air cleaner?

Brad


josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #46, 09-14-2009 10:31 AM
      No , but I will mount the altenator today and sit my S-15 breather on it. I can get a good look at the fit and take a picture. I will post the picture of it this afternoon.

josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #47, 09-14-2009 10:37 AM
      Fieroseverywhere you have a PM

josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #48, 09-14-2009 12:34 PM
      Twofatguys here ya go.

First is the spacer. It has a black soft plastic seal on the top and bottom. It measures 1 3/8" on the contact to contact surfaces.


There is a indexing area that extends into the air breather to keep it from turning:


This shot is taken from above the breather. Notice that the hole in the center is not exactly in the center the "encentric ring". It measures from 1" to 2" depending on where you are measuring from:


With the smallest part of the TB hole to outside edge behind the altenator it will sit flat on the spacer. There is about 1/4" space between the breather and the altenator body:

A shot of a stock 2.5 set up. Notice the breather duct and the breather snout meet just south of the strain relief and the bulkhead. Just about where my 4.9 dipstick handle is. That is the area I am looking for:

Of course the "Snout" is pointed in the wrong direction. I plan on adding the snout off of a 2.5 so the air duct tube is lined up.


I am not sure if the deck lid will close with this configuration. The breather housing is about 4" thick. TBI base to the top of the breather with the lid on. I also have the 1 3/8" spacer on it. Here is a shot with the lid on and a 2X6 on top so you can see how tall this is:


In order for this to work, a 2" element and a flat lid could be used. The spacer only needs to be about 3/4" tall so the bottom does not rub on the fuel rails. And of course the snout intake would need to be relocated. The filter element is 3" X 10":



That said, the GM TBI hole is the same for the V8 and the V6 cars. I found this information on the Fel Pro wrapper my TBI gasket was in. So 2.8, 4.3, and 5.0, and 5.7 breathers 's all have the same size hole for the TBI. This one I am playing with here is off of my 89 GMC S-15 P/U.I am pretty sure the larger engines use a large breather body. I would think this is the smallest breathe of the bunch. Anybody else have a smaller one off of anything, lets here it. I am open to any and all ideas.
Joe

Edit ot add:
I just looked at the pictures again. It appears that the breather is over the dist and rotor. The cap is not on , so this might not work out. Raining again here, so I cant take the breather off of my truck right now . I need to aslo see how much room there is between the breather body and the battery lug on the altenator. Maybe later today.

Well I took another looka a while ago. I removed the spacer and added a few 1/4" sockets of about 3/4" tall on top of the throttle body.

I sat the breather on top, and turned the smaller side towards the distributor:


I think what I need is a 12" TBI air breather, that is 10" element, and an inch all the way aoround for air flow. Maybe I am beating a dead horse here.

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 09-14-2009).]

Mickey_Moose (edmontonfieros@shaw.ca) MSG #49, 09-14-2009 01:46 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by josef644:
I do not plan on an oil cooler right now. I was reading a post by Ed Parks, ( Fiero Factory), a while back and he was stating that he did not prefer to use them. From his posting "we use 2 Dorman #090-040 20mm-1.5 drain plugs with a liberal amount of Permatex on the threads" Less problems with leaks I think he said. I am planning on running my exhaust out the rear with a round spun catalitic converter.


I am under the impression that you have to modify the oil filter housing as well (remove/drill something out) - I have not seen any specifics, so can't say for sure.


fieroguru MSG #50, 09-14-2009 02:22 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by Mickey_Moose:
I am under the impression that you have to modify the oil filter housing as well (remove/drill something out) - I have not seen any specifics, so can't say for sure.


Here are some pics of the bypass mod.
http://www.westcoastfiero.c...l_filter_bypass.html


fieroguru MSG #51, 09-14-2009 02:25 PM
      You can cut the base from the air filter housing and then use it on another lower profile air cleaner housing (like taking the truck TBI base and using it on the bottom of the 4cyl fiero housing). Here is the one I used to make the custom air intake housing on my last 4.9 swap:


Also, many speed shops sell TBI spacer rings in various thicknesses so you do not have to use the stock tall one from the truck (I have a 1/2" on on the shelf at home).

[This message has been edited by fieroguru (edited 09-14-2009).]

Fieroseverywhere (caalon777@hotmail.com) MSG #52, 09-14-2009 02:27 PM
      PM returned.


josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #53, 09-14-2009 02:44 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by fieroguru:

You can cut the base from the air filter housing and then use it on another lower profile air cleaner housing (like taking the truck TBI base and using it on the bottom of the 4cyl fiero housing). Here is the one I used to make the custom air intake housing on my last 4.9 swap:


Also, many speed shops sell TBI spacer rings in various thicknesses so you do not have to use the stock tall one from the truck (I have a 1/2" on on the shelf at home).



Do you have a picture of the 4.9 with the 2.5 breather on top?


josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #54, 09-14-2009 02:47 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by Mickey_Moose:


I am under the impression that you have to modify the oil filter housing as well (remove/drill something out) - I have not seen any specifics, so can't say for sure.


 
quote
Originally posted by fieroguru:


Here are some pics of the bypass mod.
http://www.westcoastfiero.c...l_filter_bypass.html


I didn't know that. But I will think real hard before I drill out the bypass. I will either add the oil cooler, or drill out the bypass as suggested.
Thanks for the tip to you both.
Joe

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 09-14-2009).]

Fieroseverywhere (caalon777@hotmail.com) MSG #55, 09-14-2009 03:14 PM
      Why wouldn't you want to use an oil cooler? These caddy's all came with them from the factory. I'm not one for removing parts that the factory felt was necissary, even if it "can" work without it. This is the one I used. They are quite in-expensive as oil coolers go....
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/PRM-691/


josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #56, 09-14-2009 04:03 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by Fieroseverywhere:

Why wouldn't you want to use an oil cooler? These caddy's all came with them from the factory. I'm not one for removing parts that the factory felt was necissary, even if it "can" work without it. This is the one I used. They are quite in-expensive as oil coolers go....
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/PRM-691/


The biggest problem I had was where to put it, so it wasn't next to an exhaust pipe, or a catalitic converter. Both could heat the oil rather than cool it. If I am gonna have an oil cooler, it will have to be one working correctly. I also want to run my AC lines in the factory position. Oil cooler has gotta be in a good spot. I didn't want to move it up front, or in the right side quarter panel.


Fieroseverywhere (caalon777@hotmail.com) MSG #57, 09-14-2009 05:37 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by josef644:


The biggest problem I had was where to put it, so it wasn't next to an exhaust pipe, or a catalitic converter. Both could heat the oil rather than cool it. If I am gonna have an oil cooler, it will have to be one working correctly. I also want to run my AC lines in the factory position. Oil cooler has gotta be in a good spot. I didn't want to move it up front, or in the right side quarter panel.


OH. Right. I forget that can be a problem with some installs. My car is setup differently then most. My intake comes directly through the decklid. That left the side scoop open for the oil cooler. It works extremely well there. At hwy speeds temp stays steady at 200 degrees. The radiator fan only comes on during stop and go traffic and even then only for 10-15 seconds.

How about the front of the cradle? Since your not running the factory cat it could get plenty of air there.


josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #58, 09-14-2009 05:57 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by Fieroseverywhere:

How about the front of the cradle? Since your not running the factory cat it could get plenty of air there.


This (cradle front side) was my thought after the tip about the internal oil bypass.

I have about 98% of the Cadillac injector harness finished as of this afternoon. Every wire that goes out to the engine is fitted and tied off for first fireoff. Tomorrow I will start adding the C203/C500. I hooked a battery charger to my fuseable links this afternoon. I had hand cranked up the headlights, and they both came on. The Blue Dingy thingie started singing to me. I couldn't see any dashlights on in the dash pod. Both dome lights were dead. I'll do more power ups after I have the next stage wired in.

This is how much excess wiring was in the Cadillac 4.9 injector harness:

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 09-14-2009).]

fieroguru MSG #59, 09-14-2009 07:48 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by josef644:

Do you have a picture of the 4.9 with the 2.5 breather on top?


Nope, that was just a sugestion on something that could be tried. I am not sure it would clear the front valve cover, but it would be kinda funny to keep the tech 4 air filter housing.


Fieroseverywhere (caalon777@hotmail.com) MSG #60, 09-15-2009 10:00 AM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by josef644:

I couldn't see any dashlights on in the dash pod. [/IMG]



Is your dash bolted down? There are two 10mm bolts that go through the metal plate behind the speedo/tach. If their not tightened down it wont light. Came accross this on mine.


Rickady88GT (rjkmfam@sbcglobal.net) MSG #61, 09-15-2009 11:10 AM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by josef644:


On your build how did you run your VSS sensor wire? Did you lay your wires along the intake, down the passenger side of the engine, then to the VSS plug, or distrubitor end underneath the exhaust manifold to the VSS plug. I don't want to fry these two wires.
Joe Crawford



You can get some good wire loom that is very good for reflecting heat. I got some from Jegs. It looks like chrome loom but is a rolled up aluminized heat shield fabric. I ran it under the exhaust manifold on top of the tranny. BTW I changed the manifolds. I did not keep those.



Rickady88GT (rjkmfam@sbcglobal.net) MSG #62, 09-15-2009 11:25 AM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by Fieroseverywhere:


If I sent you a fuel rail would you modify it like this for me? I really hate having the fuel lines running accross the rocker covers. I'll pay you well for you time.


Sorry, one off custom. I cut it into a bunch of pieces and mocked them up where I wanted them. Then had a machine shop weld (braze) them together.



josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #63, 09-15-2009 11:50 AM
      I went ahead and ran the VSS wires under the manifold, on the outside of the transmission dipstick, outside if the shift switch then merged into the rest of the wiring around the center of the left transmnission side. I wanted to stay away from the area where the rear manifold/crossover pipe, and the transmission all 3 were very close.

I am not worried about the dash lights yet. I only had the battery charger hooked to one of the fuseable links. It wasn't mounted on the threaded hold down block. Just a down the road item for de bugging if they don't worl later.

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 09-15-2009).]

Fieroseverywhere (caalon777@hotmail.com) MSG #64, 09-15-2009 02:15 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by Rickady88GT:

Sorry, one off custom. I cut it into a bunch of pieces and mocked them up where I wanted them. Then had a machine shop weld (braze) them together.


Oh well. I do have 20' of stainless tubing thats the right diameter. Guess I'll have to do the same. It just looks so much better.


josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #65, 09-15-2009 04:17 PM
      Today I managed to merge the C203 into the Cadillac harness today. I also mounted the AC and Fuel Pump relays. I ran most of those wires that operate them both. I switched out the temperature sensor for the new one, and located those three wires for soldering. Plugged in the C500 and untangeled all of those wires so I can merge them one at a time into the harness. The temperature one isready to be soldered in.

No rain here today, looks like tomorrow will be a mowing day


josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #66, 09-15-2009 06:59 PM
      I searched to find out how to mod my tach for my V8. There was a thread where I saw that Capt Fiero had used "10x turn high precession pot" to mod his tach. I used google to find one of these. There are thousands of different ones 3W 10K, and on and on etc. Anybody know what the W and K value needs to be for modding my tach?
Joe

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 09-17-2009).]

fieroguru MSG #67, 09-15-2009 07:42 PM
      Here is the thread I always use:
http://www.fieros.de/en/articles/tach.html

Doing it this way, you only need to cut the trace and install the proper resistor value - Radio Shack sells packs of 100K and 10K resistors - just put them in series to get the 210K value.

I prefer the V6 tach with the 6K redline and for the 2.8 tach to the V8 you need to install a 210K ohm resistor (or a variable resistor with that range).
For the 88 4 cyl tach with DIS, I "think" the current resistor value in your tach needs to be reduced by 75%.

[This message has been edited by fieroguru (edited 09-15-2009).]

josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #68, 09-15-2009 08:30 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by fieroguru:

Here is the thread I always use:
http://www.fieros.de/en/articles/tach.html

Doing it this way, you only need to cut the trace and install the proper resistor value - Radio Shack sells packs of 100K and 10K resistors - just put them in series to get the 210K value.

I prefer the V6 tach with the 6K redline and for the 2.8 tach to the V8 you need to install a 210K ohm resistor (or a variable resistor with that range).
For the 88 4 cyl tach with DIS, I "think" the current resistor value in your tach needs to be reduced by 75%.



I removed a 85 4 cy tach spare I had, and cut the trace. Using the 200K range I got a measurement of 12.9
Measuring where he soldered the Pot in this picture I lifted from him


If I flip it over and measure again from the other side of the resister I get 5.6, again using the 200K range. I don't understand why.
I will remove the DIS tach form my car and add this one if I can get it ready to go.

So what resisters do I need to solder in to get this working correctly. What about a tach filter? WIll I need to add one to the system?


Fieroseverywhere (caalon777@hotmail.com) MSG #69, 09-16-2009 10:11 AM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by josef644:


I removed a 85 4 cy tach spare I had, and cut the trace. Using the 200K range I got a measurement of 12.9
Measuring where he soldered the Pot in this picture I lifted from him


If I flip it over and measure again from the other side of the resister I get 5.6, again using the 200K range. I don't understand why.
I will remove the DIS tach form my car and add this one if I can get it ready to go.

So what resisters do I need to solder in to get this working correctly. What about a tach filter? WIll I need to add one to the system?


All that makes it more complicated then it actually is. Get a 200k trimming potentiometer (trim pot). Multi-turn (10 turn) is better for fine tuning the adjustment but a single turn one will work also. The 200k is the important part here.

Cut trace and solder in 2 of the 3 pins. Doesn't matter which 2. Put on a scanner and adjust the trim pot til the tach matches what the scanner reads for RPM. Done.

I didn't bother to measure anything. I just dialed it in. I believe the exact resistance value is close to 187k. This is why you use the 200k pot. If you don't have a scanner you can measure the resistance between two pins amd set ot tp 187k to get it very close til you get to a scanner and dial it in perfectly. You don't need any other parts. Any fiero tach will work. Cutting the trace removes the ceramic resistor from the equation. The trim pot acts as a variable resistor. Hope this helps.

EDIT: Forgot to mention. Solder it in with a couple of lead wires and let it hang under the dash. That way it can be dialed while installed into the car, engine running.

[This message has been edited by Fieroseverywhere (edited 09-16-2009).]

Fieroseverywhere (caalon777@hotmail.com) MSG #70, 09-16-2009 11:13 AM
      Hey Joe,

Do you need a speedo circuit? I'll send you one if you do, free of course. I have a few lying around that I'll never use.


josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #71, 09-16-2009 03:46 PM
      Yes I could use one, I'll PM you my address

And thanks for all the help
Joe

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 09-16-2009).]

josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #72, 09-16-2009 03:50 PM
      FEW you have a PM

Got nothing done on the car today

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 09-16-2009).]

mid engine monsters (midenginemonsters@live.com) MSG #73, 09-16-2009 05:08 PM
     

josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #74, 09-16-2009 07:52 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by mid engine monsters:



One of my favorites


twofatguys (brad@wheatoncomputer.com) MSG #75, 09-17-2009 01:05 PM
      Since we are all answering questions and don't seem to mind ( I hope)

Can someone explain what exactly is used to make the radiator fill tube? It looks like Stock Fiero, but I figure that is too good to hope for.



Man what a beautiful engine there.

Brad


josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #76, 09-17-2009 02:09 PM
      They are using a Duke thermostat housing, cut off the end and weld it to the 4.9 thermo housing.

Ask all the questions you want.

Nothing done on the coupe today
Joe

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 09-17-2009).]

Fieroseverywhere (caalon777@hotmail.com) MSG #77, 09-18-2009 09:59 AM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by twofatguys:



Brad


What part are you talking about? Its not clear enough with only the 5 arrows and 2 circles around it.


twofatguys (brad@wheatoncomputer.com) MSG #78, 09-18-2009 11:44 AM
      LOL, I was thinking of making a bulls eye, and going into photoshop. But I got in a hurry.

Thanks for the speedy response.

Brad




Rickady88GT (rjkmfam@sbcglobal.net) MSG #79, 09-18-2009 12:38 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by twofatguys:

Since we are all answering questions and don't seem to mind ( I hope)

Can someone explain what exactly is used to make the radiator fill tube? It looks like Stock Fiero, but I figure that is too good to hope for.



Man what a beautiful engine there.

Brad


Thanks, I never thought the 4.9 was a good looking engine. So I had to do a lot of custom work to make it a little more palatable (for my style). Some of the custom work is obvious, but most is subtle. In my opinion the Valve covers are the best looking thing the 4.9 has going for it. So I had to uncover it from the fuel lines and coolant lines. What is not in that pic is the power steering pump. I like power steering so I had to reroute the belt system to accommodate a new pump location.



falcon_ca (luc_giguere@hotmail.com) MSG #80, 09-18-2009 04:58 PM
      How I did mine.

Not welded yet






josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #81, 09-18-2009 05:46 PM
      I got page three too!

I like the way you have it indexed. It was the same way I had planned on marking it up for welding.

No work on the Coupe today. Real job gets in the way sometimes !!! Might be Wednesday before I can venture in the garage. If I get a rain day I will spend it on the Coupe.

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 09-18-2009).]

josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #82, 09-20-2009 09:04 AM
      Ordered a new VATS bypass from Baker Electrinix this am. I have one here, but be danged if I can locate it. If it comes up later I can sell it in the mall.
$31.00 more on the list.


josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #83, 09-24-2009 10:36 AM
      VATS by pass will be here today or tomorrow. I ordered for my exhaust a small round catalitic convereter today, $65.00 delivered. This one has the metalic insides. 2.5" Thunderbolt Metallic Catalytic Converter #415250. It is for up to 5.9L engines.
http://performance-curve.com/
I will be copying this photos exhaust system, dont remember who I stold this picture from:

I also ordered the two connectors that connect the tach and ingnition to the distributor. Got these at:
http://www.repairconnector....subcatid/0/id/293731
Carrluvr had reccommended them . We have no wrecking yards here. I am 1 1/2 hrs away for any around where I live. Easier for me to order new ones, than drive 3 hrs and get filthy scrounging parts. Less than $20.00 delivered.

Raining here today, so I am gonna get to work in the garage. I will post any progress this afternoon.

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 09-24-2009).]

josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #84, 09-24-2009 01:51 PM
      I purchaseda set of these exhaust manifolds and the crossover pipe back in March expecting to use them on my 4.9 swap:

I tried to clean a spot and they clean up real nice with the air die grinder with a wire brush head insert.
Mounted on FEW's engine I think:


Are there any advanatages to using these other than loosing about 15lbs of cast iron off each head? I would think that the cast iron ones hold in the heat better than the stainless steel tubular ones.
I am planning on using the Fiero AC hoses, and they pass right underneath the manifolds. A auto parts shop I go to said he can remove the round muffler can part on the Fiero AC hoses while replacing the soft part of these ac lines:

and as seen in Dizzixx's pic this would be pretty close to the manifold. :

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 09-24-2009).]

josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #85, 09-24-2009 03:31 PM
      The PO had installed 6" round spearers in this huge hole. And yes that is the fuel neck hose you are looking at from inside the car. You can also see the transmission pan:

An hour later I had this removed from the engine bay side:

There is one on the passenger side also. I am gonna have to drop the engine to remove it as it's against the waterpump belt pulley. No wiggle room what so ever.

Got a call from NAPA, and this came in today on their truck. NAPA number 610-1100, $3.88 Cheapest part I had to buy yet:


Before:


After:

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 09-24-2009).]

Fieroseverywhere (caalon777@hotmail.com) MSG #86, 09-24-2009 05:46 PM
      That is indeed a pic of my motor while I was building the exhaust. There are only a few advantages to the stainless manifolds over the iron ones. First, obviously, they're stainless. They just look better and have less rust over time. The second advantage (and the reason I chose them) is they are much easier to weld then the cast iron ones. For my install I wanted to route the exhaust in the factory place. This meant removing the center outlet in the one manifold. Simply capping the outlet wasn't good enough. The stainless just worked better for this. Third. If you plan on doing headers they are a great place to start. The flanges can be cut off easily and would make a great base for headers.

I don't see how either choice would be much better then the other given how your doing your exhaust. For your AC just make up a good heat shield to protect the hoses. I'd also wrap the AC hoses in fiberglass or equivelant tape for added protection. The iron manifolds do come with a small shield but its not enough. Make sure you use something in the area the small shield goes though. It protects your fuel pump connector on the firewall. Go ahead... Ask me how I know.

[This message has been edited by Fieroseverywhere (edited 09-24-2009).]

Fieroseverywhere (caalon777@hotmail.com) MSG #87, 09-24-2009 05:49 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by josef644:

The PO had installed 6" round spearers in this huge hole. And yes that is the fuel neck hose you are looking at from inside the car. You can also see the transmission pan:



I thought my car was the only one. I guess I got lucky afterall. I only had 4" holes in my firewall... course it looked like mine was done with a chisel. Did they cut out the mount for the fuel pump and Ac relay on yours also?

[This message has been edited by Fieroseverywhere (edited 09-24-2009).]

fieroguru MSG #88, 09-24-2009 07:38 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by josef644:



Are there any advanatages to using these other than loosing about 15lbs of cast iron off each head? I would think that the cast iron ones hold in the heat better than the stainless steel tubular ones.



As stated above, the stainless steel manifolds would be a good base for some custom headers and that is probably the most significant benefit.

The cast iron manifolds are some of the lightest I have come across. The rear facing cast iron manifold I could easily weigh was only 6.5lbs... so using the stainless manifolds might save a total of 5 lbs. vs the 30 you were thinking about.


josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #89, 09-24-2009 08:22 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by fieroguru:


As stated above, the stainless steel manifolds would be a good base for some custom headers and that is probably the most significant benefit.

The cast iron manifolds are some of the lightest I have come across. The rear facing cast iron manifold I could easily weigh was only 6.5lbs... so using the stainless manifolds might save a total of 5 lbs. vs the 30 you were thinking about.


I think I'll just keep the cast iron manifolds and put these in the mall. Thanks to you both.
Joe

Sold them already

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 09-26-2009).]

josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #90, 09-25-2009 03:56 PM
      VATS bypass came today from Baker. Worked on Ruckus stuff today. No more work on my coupe till sunday afternoon.

josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #91, 09-25-2009 03:59 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by Fieroseverywhere:


: Did they cut out the mount for the fuel pump and Ac relay on yours also?



Yep it's gone. I have spare metal now to replace it. I will use screws or pop rivets to mount it though, dont want to weld next to that rear glass.
Joe


josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #92, 09-26-2009 03:03 PM
      Then two connectors for the distributor came in the mail today. Catalitic converter I ordered will be here Wednesday or Thursday.

Edited to add:

Spent an hour removing the second metal speaker box enclosure from the engine bay. What fun this was. Some one needs to be shot.
This is the same shot as I used above , but lets you know what I am speaking of:

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 09-26-2009).]

josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #93, 09-28-2009 07:59 PM
      1 new distributor cap from the local NAPA store. $12.00 more into the pot, or in then trash as my wife says. I thought it was supposed to be expensive because it fits a Caddie.

The SBC one was a buck cheeper. Didnt even have to mod this one to fit.

Installed the new gray Dist cap, coil, coil cover and added the new 'Tach' lead and 'Ign' leads before screwing it all down.
I purchase a new rotor in the next few days.

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 11-03-2009).]

josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #94, 09-30-2009 09:09 PM
      Today I made some progress on the harness. I had run and put all of the C203 wires where they needed to go and put a tie strap on them. Today I went back and added the C203 'J' & "K' wires and ran them out to the injector part of the harness. Started going down the list, B, C, D, E etc soldering them and heat shrinkng as I went. C203 'F' ( ECM ingnition) I also soldered to the powersteering input lead 'C'-09 so the Caddie ECM thinks the PS pump is working.

I havent wired C203 'G' in yet as I need or need to build a speedo filter. Will ground 'R' for speedo

Mowing day tomorrow as the rain is due back sometime Friday. I want to finish up the ALDL wiring tomrrow. I have it all laid out and tie strapped togeather. I want to get the ALDL finished up tomorrow.

If I stay away for a few days I forget what I was focused on when I quit. Takes a while to get back in the swing of things.
C500 is all that is left to do of the wiring.

I need to think about dropping the gas tank to add the V6 fuel pump. I hate dropping Fiero tanks. I did it twice on my 86 coupe. Once for the pump, then a second time for a fuel guage sending unit repair.

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 10-01-2009).]

Fieroseverywhere (caalon777@hotmail.com) MSG #95, 10-01-2009 09:51 AM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by josef644:

I havent wired C203 'G' in yet as I need or need to build a speedo filter. Will ground 'R' for speedo



I mailed this thing out last week. I wonder what the holdup is? The good news is the 4.9 doesn't need it to run properly. Just make sure you have the wires from the VSS connected to the PCM. The PCM cuts power output of the motor when it doesn't get a speed signal.

Your getting close now.


josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #96, 10-01-2009 01:30 PM
      Might have been routed threw Canada with their Canadian Postal Service. Fatest route to Texas is threw Onterio from Oregon. If it doesn't show soon I will go to Radio Shack and score some parts. Thanks for sending it though.

mid engine monsters (midenginemonsters@live.com) MSG #97, 10-01-2009 02:30 PM
     

josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #98, 10-01-2009 07:54 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by mid engine monsters:



Last night as a matter fact!!


Carrluvr (carrluvr@nycap.rr.com) MSG #99, 10-02-2009 04:44 AM
      Joe keep up the good work. I know what you mean when you say to have to catch up after being away. I have been very close to a test startup since mid august but other things take priority and then you have to figure out where you left off. My wiring is done with the exception of the a/c. I'll address that when I know the engine is running correctly. I had to order a new waterpump inlet housing as mine had a pin hole in the top of the return pipe. I am picking it up tomorrow and then reassembling the front cover water pump and lastly putting the belt on before a test fire hopefully by Monday. If you need any help feel free to bend my ear. Although there are many here who can lend a hand.

josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #100, 10-02-2009 08:06 AM
      Are you doing automatic or stick shift?

josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #101, 10-02-2009 09:04 AM
      My new round catalitic converter came with UPS yesterday:


It has 2.5 " in and outlets. Metallic core. To go with this custom made muffler:

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 10-02-2009).]

josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #102, 10-02-2009 02:26 PM
      Wired in the ALDL this morning. I have 'M' position and 'E' position connected togeather so I can see if my Dodgerunner cable will run my TunnerPro software with my laptop. Ran the grounds from The ECM to the engine bay for a grounding eye.

There are two battery +12 Volt hot all the time ECM wires ( C16 & B1) that need to be connected. Where is the best place to connect these? Maybe the cigarette lighter wire? Hot all the time? Maybe not when the switch is in the start position. Might have to run a dedicated fused wire to the battery junction block beside the C500.

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 10-02-2009).]

Carrluvr (carrluvr@nycap.rr.com) MSG #103, 10-02-2009 10:13 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by josef644:

Wired in the ALDL this morning. I have 'M' position and 'E' position connected togeather so I can see if my Dodgerunner cable will run my TunnerPro software with my laptop. Ran the grounds from The ECM to the engine bay for a grounding eye.

There are two battery +12 Volt hot all the time ECM wires ( C16 & B1) that need to be connected. Where is the best place to connect these? Maybe the cigarette lighter wire? Hot all the time? Maybe not when the switch is in the start position. Might have to run a dedicated fused wire to the battery junction block beside the C500.



Joe on the my GT there was an orange cable with a fusible link that connected to the Post below the c500 that originally fed the V6 ECU. I used this to connect to both 12+ connectors to the caddy's. I am doing an auto tranny. i am running into issues with the cable bracket and linkage. I bought the setup from Rockcrawl but it wont clear the exhaust xover and the plastic cable wont stay connected to the post.


josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #104, 10-02-2009 10:33 PM
      I wonder if I need to add a fuseable link set up or if a fuse protected dedicated wire?


I connected a +12 volt battery lead to the PW switch ,(pink wire), and lowered the driver side window. It was sort of slow the last few inches. I ran it back up, and lowered it a few times. It was a little bit faster after the second cycle. I Had no movenent from the passenger side at all. I printed a troubleshooting guide from the 88 FSM to try to figure out what the problem is. I jammed a flat screw driver in the connector for teh pink wire and connected a setr of jumper cables to the frame and the screw driver. I wanted to be able to give it plenty of current to see how quick the windows moved up and down, and the headlight motors speed.

I was also able to check out the headlight motors. Both worked good, and were much faster than the ones in my old 86 coupe.

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 09-28-2010).]

josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #105, 10-04-2009 09:01 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by Carrluvr:


Joe on the my GT there was an orange cable with a fusible link that connected to the Post below the c500 that originally fed the V6 ECU. I used this to connect to both 12+ connectors to the caddy's. I am doing an auto tranny. i am running into issues with the cable bracket and linkage. I bought the setup from Rockcrawl but it wont clear the exhaust xover and the plastic cable wont stay connected to the post.


That was it. I found the fuseable link and the weather pack connector still connected to the 2.5 ECM connector. It shares a common connector eye with the Alt and its fuseable link. Orange wire as you said, and it splits into two leads. I just need to route it into the cabin for the ECM +12 Bat feeds. Ya just got a + from me.

Big Help
Thanks
Joe

Spent the last hour finding all of the fuseable links that go to the junction block by the battery. I will now be able to power up the whole car at the same time now, or power up some and disconnect the others as I wish. Gonna be able to get some real work done now.

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 10-04-2009).]

josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #106, 10-05-2009 08:21 PM
      Got my new battery support in the mail today. $30.00 more in the trash can

No progress today, had to work


CenTexIndy (centexfiero@gmail.com) MSG #107, 10-05-2009 08:45 PM
      It will be well worth it! Work has to take precedent though over the car

Looking good. Can't wait to see the final job.


josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #108, 10-06-2009 03:14 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by CenTexIndy:

It will be well worth it! Work has to take precedent though over the car

Looking good. Can't wait to see the final job.


That might be a while. I am planning on removing all body panels for painting. I will not remove any of the body untill I have the engine and transmissionn running like I want it.

CenTex in this picture you posted it appears that you have connected fuel lines with brass connectors. DId you cut off the ends and use ferrels, or are those GM flare adaptors? If they are adapters where did you score them? Or did you do something else I cant see from these photos? This looks like a good cheap simple solution for fuel line connections.

Joe

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 10-06-2009).]

josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #109, 10-06-2009 04:51 PM
      I was looking for ways to make the AC work in my swap. I wanted to have a good working AC in this Coupe after the swap was finished. I went to:
http://www.acsource.com/ and found they sell GM compressor horizontal exit compressor hose blocks:

and a high pressure retro fit kit:


Problem:
My car was a 2.5 so it had the high and low pressure swirches in the rear of the compressor. Problem number two is that the Caddilac hose set will not work in the Fiero engine bay. When we try to use the Fiero hose set on the rear of the Cadillac compressor it gets VERY close to the front side exhaust mainifold. Picture borrowed from Dizzixx's thread. You can see that his manifolds aren't even on the engine. The muffler is close to the manifold area:


Not good. The muffler on the Fiero hose set is in the wrong place also. The Cadillac compressor has no provisions for HI/Low switches on or in the compressor. So I need external Hi/Low controls.

Fix
I can run the wire that goes to the rear of the car to the spare tire area and connect to the high/low switches in there. The accumulator has a port for the normally open low pressure /compressor control valve. The V6 cars do this already. The 2.5 accumulators have a place for this on them that is unused now. First connection. Wire in series. Second connection would be threw this always closed high pressure switch attached to the 134A high port fitting. Then return this wire line to the place it was cut from originally. Then to the rear so does what it was supposed to do, activate the compressor control relay position 'A'. This is the way it is wired in the 2.5's now with the V5 compressors. All 86-88's 2.5's. Just the switches in front now instead of the engine compartment.
I will need to attach the hose block to the compressor. Also the metal part of the Fiero AC hose , the part that connects to the body lines. Then just get a measurement between the two. Send them my old hose metal end part. They will make my hose to fit between the lines and the compressor, and send it back to me free shipping.

Any thoughts?

Just went to RockAuto and looked up the Cadillac compressor. It is a HR6. I know some 88 V6's used the HR6

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 10-06-2009).]

josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #110, 10-07-2009 06:19 PM
      Today I flattened out the Ex speaker boxes from above and took them to a friend of mine that has a sheetmetal shear. He cut the metal for me so it is nice and straight. I am gonna cover the two speaker holes with this metal. He also cut me some 1" strips so I can make some 'stand off'' s for mounting up things.

The replacement piece just sitting over the hole not attached yet. This is good thick 55 Chevy fender thick stuff.

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 10-07-2009).]

josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #111, 10-08-2009 12:22 PM
      I put a 5 spd drivers side CV axle in the transmission and hub on the right side of my car this morning. I left the axle nut loose with about 1/2" slack. I jacked up the hub a bit at a time and checked for 1/2" movement. After the cradle raised off of the jackstands I had a friend sit on the rear above the strus and bounce. I could not get the axle to bind. I tightened the axle nut and tried to dislodge the shaft from the tripod. Couldn't do it. I am wondering why folks are reccommending using a 90's GM minivan axle for this with the Fiero stick shift outer end installed.

Rockcrawl says for a 4T60E:
"and a left axle for a manual Fiero on the right side. Some people have reported having problems with the Fiero axle on the right side, but they have always worked well for me."

What type problems? I read here where a swapper had axel bind and ruined a transmission. I could not make it bind. This axel seems to work just fine in there. I don't mind buying a different axle if it is needed, but if it isn't why waste $90.00. The minivan axle was $43.00+ tax and $40.00 core charge at my local NAPA.

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 10-08-2009).]

fieroguru MSG #112, 10-08-2009 07:29 PM
      There can be alot of variations in engine placement side to side, front to back and elevation along with engine/transmission mounts and their allowable movement and overall suspension ride height. These all come into play in varying degrees with axle selection and provide opportunities for people to have different results in what worked or didn't work for them.

Another factor that comes into play is that some axles issues only arise when the car is being driven and experiences full droop or full compression. Depending on driving style, you can drive for an extended period of time w/o having any issues and think your axles are just fine. Then one day botttom out hard going over some tracks or catch some air over a road bump and end up with something breaking.

I always check for axle binding on my swaps. With the engine/tranny/cradle in the chassis with the springs removed from the struts and the rear hubs very close to proper alignment, cycle the suspension from full droop to full compression while spinning the hub by hand. It should spin freely and not have any binding... if it binds, find out why and work to fix the issue before you break something.


josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #113, 10-08-2009 09:37 PM
      I didn't remove the springs, but used instead my neighbors big butt sitting on the strut tower to compress the spring,(250 lbs), and a floor jack to raise it as high as I could get it. I still had close to 1/2" play in and out with the splined end of the CV shaft all the way up and down. No binding at any time. While checking it again this evening my inner boot let loose while I was turning the wheel by hand. The wheel end was all the way down. So, I gotta replace the inner boot next week.

Thanks for the reply
Joe

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 10-08-2009).]

josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #114, 10-09-2009 04:28 PM
      Got some wiring finished up today. I was able to figure out the wiring of the fuel pump relay. No big deal ya say? 2 wires from the ECM, 2 from the C203, 5 from the relay, 1 from the ALDL and 3 from the oil pressure switch. 13 They gotta be correct or no go with fuel. The fact that the wires switch colors sometimes didn't help. Tan and wt at times, gray others. Four of these all join hands in harmony, solder and heat shrink, the ALDL G, C203 L, OP sw, and relay feed 'B'.

What did help was identifying the wires pin positions on the relays, OP sw connector, ECM plug, ALDL connector and the C203. I did all splices inside the cabin if at all posible so the joint wasn't exposed to under the hood conditions. Connectors C203, C 502,C500 etc are not always identified in wiring diagrams.

I think I was sort of putting off finishing up my harness because I was not understanding how to join these up correctly. I spent an hour yesterday evening just looking and reading diagrams. I was comfortable with joining them togeather today. Glad this part is over. I'll do the AC relay Sunday morning. Ruckus day is tomorrow, so no working on the Coupe. Chat ya Sunday.
Later
Joe Crawford


Carrluvr (carrluvr@nycap.rr.com) MSG #115, 10-09-2009 09:34 PM
      Thanks Joe. I'm glad I could help. I just got my new water inlet in the mail and got the whole timing cover/waterpump/inlet assembly back in place. This weekend I will be test firing the car for the first time. I wish I would have known you needed a battery tray. I cut mine out because I relocated my battery to the front. It sits in a box of scrap metal right now. No rust at all.

[This message has been edited by Carrluvr (edited 10-09-2009).]

josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #116, 10-09-2009 09:37 PM
      Got my CV inner boot and the CV band pliers today so I can swap out the boot I busted this morning checking for axle binding. I removed the strut spring and put it back togeather. OH, and no binding. Just a busted inner rubber boot. $30.00 more in the trash can. I am gonna keep the CV boot band pliars this time. I got a new set, they are only $16.00 at A-Zone. I also get to replace the strut spring too!!!!
I just love this.
Joe


josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #117, 10-09-2009 09:40 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by Carrluvr:

Thanks Joe. I'm glad I could help. I just got my new water inlet in the mail and got the whole timing cover/waterpump/inlet assembly back in place. This weekend I will be test firing the car for the first time. I wish I would have known you needed a battery tray. I cut mine out because I relocated my battery to the front. It sits in a box of scrap metal right now. No rust at all.



Do you still have the top part, battery tray? The piecs that the battery sits on? Not the battery support, thats the piece spot welded in the engine bay. I need the top piece. Sometimes it has been riveted to the support. They are $33.00 new at TFS.
Picture lifted from The Fiero Store:
Tray

Support

Joe

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 10-09-2009).]

johnyrottin (johnharbour@hotmail.com) MSG #118, 10-09-2009 11:23 PM
      I really wish I knew you were doing this swap before I left the country. You could have taken my 4.9 and used it to mock up parts from and/or as a reference for needed parts and ideas. Ed Parks did the swap on mine so I feel good about the workmanship. I would recommend two things though while you have it out....new tranny gasket and oilpan gasket...they are going to be a bear to change out and mine have slight leaks...cork...go figure. I plan on getting and installing the type that you cannot overtighten.

Carrluvr (carrluvr@nycap.rr.com) MSG #119, 10-10-2009 08:09 AM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by josef644:


Do you still have the top part, battery tray? The piecs that the battery sits on? Not the battery support, thats the piece spot welded in the engine bay. I need the top piece. Sometimes it has been riveted to the support. They are $33.00 new at TFS.
Picture lifted from The Fiero Store:
Tray

Support

Joe



Yeah I believe I do let me look to see what it looks like for you.


josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #120, 10-10-2009 08:22 AM
      Johnny you are a Jent.
Thanks
Joe


Fieroseverywhere (caalon777@hotmail.com) MSG #121, 10-10-2009 05:04 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by johnyrottin:

I would recommend two things though while you have it out....new tranny gasket and oilpan gasket...they are going to be a bear to change out and mine have slight leaks...cork...go figure. I plan on getting and installing the type that you cannot overtighten.


I second that. Especially the oil pan. And whatever you do avoid the cork gaskets like the plague. Best one I've ever found is the Fel-pro PermaDry plus part #OS30525T. As usual rockauto has the best price I could find...
http://www.rockauto.com/cat...reinfo.php?pk=260765

I'm about the put in my 3rd oilpan gaskets. First I straightened the oilpan and went with cork. Then went to cork/rubber from Rol. Both leaked with the Rol lasting slightly longer. Just received my PermaDry thursday. It looks WAAAAAAAAAAAYY better then anything else I've tried. Rigid composit gasket with silicone rubber seal and includes alignment pins for a perfect fit. I was actually quite impressed and I'm not a huge fan of Fel-pro.


Carrluvr (carrluvr@nycap.rr.com) MSG #122, 10-10-2009 09:12 PM
      Joe I checked the battery tray and it got pretty hacked up when it got cut out. Sorry.

josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #123, 10-11-2009 03:25 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by Carrluvr:

Joe I checked the battery tray and it got pretty hacked up when it got cut out. Sorry.


Not a problem, thanks for looking for me.
Joe


josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #124, 10-15-2009 02:54 PM
      I got a Speedo filter in the mail yesterday. I will put it in the harness this evening. It was a gift from one of the members here on PFF. I will not say who it was so he doesn't get swamped with filter requests.

I just wanted to tell him thanks though.
Joe crawford

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 10-15-2009).]

josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #125, 10-21-2009 02:34 PM
      Started raining here so I could work on the car some.

I replaced the metal behind the 9" speaker hole on one side today and added the standoff that the C500 attaches to. Black 3M Trim Adhesive around the hole and the outside edges on the piece of metal scabbed on.

The standoff for the C500 was removed by a PO. fierocarparts here on PFF sent it to me. I got it yesterdays mail. I have been waiting on this to finish up my C550 part of the harness.

Ok back to work. Around three more PFF members here got their Caddie swaps fired up this week here. I also finished up replacing the CV boot that let loose about 10 days back.

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 11-03-2009).]

josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #126, 10-22-2009 05:16 PM
      Cut and installed the other speaker hole cover today. These shots are from the engine side of the firewall:



josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #127, 10-23-2009 01:47 PM
      Well I put all of my throttle cable stuff back on the car today and measured the slack. I was just a little less than 5/8" to much cable.
So
I took my spare cable to the Hardware store and got a blot the same size as the fitting on the end of the cable:


I filed a flat on the bolts shoulder to center punch a hole on it for the drill bit to bite. I drilled 2 1/16" holes on the shoulder. I wanted to have a spare. Cut to the correct length.

Both throttle bores closed

Both wide open:

Edited to add:
You can see the factory one,next to it, that I had for an extra.


I have a large flat blade screwdriver with the handle missing. I went back and used it to finish up the staking. It is not gonna come off. I did both sides.

They do not appear to be the same length in the photp, but they are .


Joe

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 10-24-2009).]

josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #128, 10-23-2009 06:06 PM
      Found a problem while working on wiring in the C500. The trunk hinge torsion bar is hitting the forward valve cover:

I have to fix this when I remove the engine next week for the new water pump, oil pan gasket and water pump inlet housing. I also have to finish up with the serpintine belt parts alignment and remount the AC compressor.

I was pretty happy with the way the engine was sitting in the engine bay untill I found this rubbing. Is my engine sitting to high? I don't remember reading that I had to leave this out when using the oil fill valve cover in the front and back of the car.

I finished wiring in the C500 except for the green wire A1 for a trunk release I think. I will confirm the pin position and socket tomorrow. I have a few wires to solder in still, then will try one tablespoon of gas in the TB and see if she will sing for me for a few seconds sometime this weekend.

Thats all for today


josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #129, 10-27-2009 01:14 PM
      I removed the fuel tank this morning. It was pretty easy as gas tanks go. The tank was clean on the inside with less than 1/4 gallon of gas that didn't stink. No telling how old it was though.

The top showed signs of being soldered, and black sealer around the metal lines where it went into the lid part.
The silicone was in the inside of the tank and an been coming off of the repair:

I have a replacement top part tof the metal line assembly that I had picked up from Wheels1 back in 2007 for a fuel gauge repair. The three metal lines do not point in the same direstion as the ones off of the car. I think this was off of a V6 car?


The one pointing in the wrong direction is just a vapor line. I will cut it and put a hose splice with clamps on it and point it in the correct direction.
There was just a little bit difference between the old 4 Cyl pump and the new AC Delco V6 pump

The fuel inlet was smaller on the V6 pump. I am gonna use the fuel hose in the AC Delco box instead of the pulsator that was on the replacement metal hose assembly.

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 10-27-2009).]

Fieroseverywhere (caalon777@hotmail.com) MSG #130, 10-27-2009 01:23 PM
      Pulsators are about 3-5 bucks at your local auto parts store. Usually in the HELP section. When I did my last pump I added one back in and was amazed at how much it quieted down the pump. I was trying to minimize the fuel pump noise as much as possible. Upper and lower rubber isolators, foam fuel pump sleeve, and pulsator. I have to really listen to hear the pump with the engine off. I can't hear it at all when the engine is running... unlike my 84. Something to take into consideration at least.

EDIT: Oh. I also used the caddy fuel pump relay which is nearly silent.

[This message has been edited by Fieroseverywhere (edited 10-27-2009).]

josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #131, 10-27-2009 01:26 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by Fieroseverywhere:

Pulsators are about 3-5 bucks at your local auto parts store. Usually in the HELP section. When I did my last pump I added one back in and was amazed at how much it quieted down the pump. I was trying to minimize the fuel pump noise as much as possible. Upper and lower rubber isolators, foam fuel pump sleeve, and pulsator. I have to really listen to hear the pump with the engine off. I can't hear it at all when the engine is running... unlike my 84. Something to take into consideration at least.

EDIT: Oh. I also used the caddy fuel pump relay which is nearly silent.


I have poor hearing as it is now. I like to be able to hear the pump prime when I turn the key on.
But thanks for the information

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 10-27-2009).]

josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #132, 10-27-2009 01:47 PM
      Just checked the fuel gauge sending unit. Worked like a champ.:
Empty:

Full


josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #133, 10-28-2009 05:07 PM
      I built my fuel lines today and took them to the welding shop to get them brazed togeather. I removed the ends of the Fiero steel line and cut it off about 6" from all four ends. I went to the parts house and purchased 2 5/16" line nipples, and 2 3/8" fuel line nipples. I also purchased a 3/8" and 5/16" steel brake line. I cut ther ends off of the steel lines and bent them to fit on top of the passenger side rear frame rail to the trunk bulkhead. There I made a 90* turn to the center of the trunk. When I drop the engine for the new oil pan gasket and to fix the waterpump inlet I will hard mount these to the car. I'll post pictures when the welding shop is finished with the brazeing. I am going to need one foot of 5/16" and 3/8" Goodyear Fuel Injection hose to join the lines to the inlets to the fuel rails. I cut and reshaped the Cadillac fuel lines to point to the center of the trunk. I had a nipple brazed on the end of these also.

Just for information: Autozone sells the Goodyear Fuel Injection Hose with the blue liner. It's about $5.00 a foot, but do not use regular fuel hose for high pressure applications.

McMaster-Carr sells the Fuel Injection Hose Clamps. I havent been able to find these anywhere else local. Packages of 10 each
http://www.mcmaster.com/#53175k82/=49fpeo

I am still shooting for a fire up next week some time. I have almost all of the wiring harness stuff finished up, tied out of the way of hot things and am working on the fuel system to get it up to speed. I plan on installing the cooling system next after the fuel is good to go. I have a 14" piece of tailpipe to attach to the rear exhausr manifold so I don't torch the forward trunk bulkhead.

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 10-28-2009).]

josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #134, 10-30-2009 10:44 AM
      Ordered the new water pump inlet from WWW.GMPARTSDIRECT.COM
$55.00 shipped. More in the kitty.


fierocarparts (doyouneedparts@yahoo.com) MSG #135, 10-30-2009 11:52 AM
      Wires are on their way as of yesterday. Can't wait to hear this thing. Oh BTW, the reason the hoses point different is I bet the sending unit is from an earlier car. The fuel lines from my 87 coupe are the same as 87 GT BUT are different from an 85 GT. So I would go that they replaced that sending unit with one from an 84-86 (like the interior).
You sure you don't want me to cut out those sections in case you ever want to replace them? LMK
Have a great weekend!
Steve



josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #136, 10-30-2009 11:57 AM
      Thanks for the insite as to these differences. I will also look at the depth of the two and see if there is a difference there. I didn't even think to look at that part of the equation.

Next week would be a good time for you to come down and take a look Steve !!!

Go back to my first post in this thread and look at the items I listed and the cost incurded so far in this swap.
Joe

Edited to add: The old one I removed with the black silicone falling off is 1/2" longer than the other one I have to use as a replacement.

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 10-31-2009).]

josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #137, 10-31-2009 09:04 PM
      Today I went and purchased an inline fuse holder. I soldered a purple and a pink wire to one end of the holder wire and put a male blade on the other end.

On an 88 there are two female ing sockets on the bottom left of the fuse box. There are female sockets on the rear side of this same spot accessable from the rear. I plugged in the flat balde and two new ingition circut wires were created.

I put a 15 amp fuse in the inline holder, but have decided to switch it to a 20 amp tomorrow beccause I am running two circuts off of the one fuse.

I ran the purple wire to the torque converter switch on the brake peddle, then down hill to C203 where I spliced into C203 'P'. My car was a stick shift so this was an empty socket on the engine side of the connector. I added a pin into the 'P' socket, and wired it in to the transmission round connector pin 'A'.

The pink wire I implanted goes to the C203 'A'. This socket was empty on my 88 coupe, so I am going to use it for +12V ignition feed for the shift solinoids on the round transmission connector pin 'E'. I added the male and female pins to the two halfs and finished the wire to the round connector.

I have tried to keep the colors corrrect for added circuts for this swap as much as possable. That is the good thing about having this nice pile of extra wire removed from the Cadillac harness:


Tomorrow I am going to reinstall the fuel tank and blow out the fuel lines before I hook up the lines to the tank. I am going to put 2.5 gallons of fuel into the tank after it is installed so I can see where 2.5 gallons is indicated on the gauge before any more fuel is added.

I want to go over all of the engine grounds before I proceed from there. As I have been reading other members problems from after install with shifting and other type of 'Bugs', it seemed that poor grounds or not connected grounds were high on the list of 'Fixes'.

I am gonna take a copy of the wiring diagrams and circle all of the grounds with a green marker. Then go out to the car and find and check them all off before proceeding.

Getting close tp first start up

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 10-31-2009).]

Grumpy0868 MSG #138, 10-31-2009 10:11 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by josef644:Getting close tp first start up








josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #139, 11-01-2009 05:50 PM
      Well today wasn't what I wanted it to be. One steep forward, two backwards it seems.

I fit the new V6 fuel pump on the metal pipe thingie, and put it all back in the tank. Fit the tank back under the car, and hooked everything back up. I got out from underneath to power up the pump and saw the new fuel pump strainer sitting on the front windshield. I said a few profane words. Picked up my tools,cleaned up and went to A-Zone to get one foot of Goodyear blue lined fuel injection hose.

On the way home I found a 2 foot X 1 foot tool box in the middle of the road.

Gotta a smile on my face at the end of the day after all. It just wasn't from the sound of an American V8 roaring in my garage.
Joe

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 11-02-2009).]

josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #140, 11-02-2009 03:09 PM
      Dropped the tank this morning and put the fuel pump strainer on the pump. Back in the car now. My back is giving me fits now from being on the cool concrete floor in my shop.

I replaced the fuel filter while I was underneath the car. No telling how old it was, or what was inside it. I blew out the return line and supply line with 120 lbs of air pressure before I put the lines back on the tank. Don't need a dirt dobber nest in the fuel rails or pushed into the gas tank. I am gonna put two gallons of gas in there tomorrow, prime the system and look ofr leaks. I want to see where the gas gauge reads a 2 gallons of fuel also.

This is as low as I could get my fuel gauge to read. I played with the two adjustment screws for about 10 min's:


Some of the tools I found yesterday. I trashed some of it because they were rusted to bad, or of soft cheap Chineese quality:
A few of the end wrenches have the ratchet built into the box end of the wrench. The brown thing on the right of the top picture is a Swingline electric stapeler.

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 11-02-2009).]

josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #141, 11-03-2009 05:27 PM
      I was checking wires for being connected properly today, ecm, pin number so an so, etc. Following the paths. I have found around 3 mistakes that I have made splicing wires. I taggged these and will address these one at a time after work tomorrow. After seeing some of the harness builds some of you guys have done , mine makes me sick at my stomach. But mine isn't wrapped in the black covering yet, so maybe there is some light at the end of this tunnel after all.
Look at this one here. Hell fire GM didn't do them this nice. Olejoedad's 4.9 install:

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 11-03-2009).]

josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #142, 11-05-2009 05:44 PM
      Correctred the wire I had connected incorrecty. The other two were alright afterall, I had run out of the needed color of wire and forgot to add this into my notes. Tomorrow I will solder in the Baker Electronix VATS bypass, the +12V for the power steering and the Speedo filter. I still will need to connect the purple starter lead to the starter.

I am going to remove the oil filter adapter and do the drill out of the oil passage for the oil cooler bypass.

Then it MIller time

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 11-05-2009).]

josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #143, 11-10-2009 04:27 PM
      Got home from Corpus Christi afew hours ago and this came on the FedEx truck:


Is the dent in the neck supposed to be there?

Worked in the garage an hour or so checking things out. I still need to verify all the grounds before I put a battery in it. I'll be trying the key on it one day this week for sure. I have to work the next two days so no time for playing with the Fiero.


Carrluvr (carrluvr@nycap.rr.com) MSG #144, 11-10-2009 07:31 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by josef644:

Got home from Corpus Christi afew hours ago and this came on the FedEx truck:


Is the dent in the neck supposed to be there?

Worked in the garage an hour or so checking things out. I still need to verify all the grounds before I put a battery in it. I'll be trying the key on it one day this week for sure. I have to work the next two days so no time for playing with the Fiero.



Yes it was in my new one as well. Why I don't know. Have fun with that. I hope I never have to do that again.


Carrluvr (carrluvr@nycap.rr.com) MSG #145, 11-10-2009 07:35 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by josef644:

Correctred the wire I had connected incorrecty. The other two were alright afterall, I had run out of the needed color of wire and forgot to add this into my notes. Tomorrow I will solder in the Baker Electronix VATS bypass, the +12V for the power steering and the Speedo filter. I still will need to connect the purple starter lead to the starter.

I am going to remove the oil filter adapter and do the drill out of the oil passage for the oil cooler bypass.

Then it MIller time

Have you done the Tach mod yet? I haven't done that yet. Its kind of interesting running 70 mph and my tach says 3300 rpm. I have that project saved for the winter lay over.





josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #146, 11-10-2009 09:31 PM
      I have done my spare tach, but haven't put it in the car yet. I can switch it out anytime. Wasn't to bad at all.

I have finished the wiring harness as of today. I still want to check over all the ground leads before I try to fire it off. I will put the cross over pipe back on the engine, and insert a one foot piece of exhayst pipe on the rear manifold so it doesn't roast my trunk.

I plan on doing the oil filter bypass tomorrow after work.
Joe

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 11-10-2009).]

josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #147, 11-10-2009 09:35 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by Carrluvr:
Have you done the Tach mod yet? I haven't done that yet. Its kind of interesting running 70 mph and my tach says 3300 rpm.


In 1965 I had a 59 Corvette w/ 283 with 3 X 2's. The generator had a cable port on the rear for the tach drive. I reached underneath the dash and switched the tach and speedo cables around. I could do 120 MPH sitting in the driveway. Now that was funnny.
Joe


Dizzixx (dizzixx@gmail.com) MSG #148, 11-10-2009 10:28 PM
      Hey man I just read your whole thread and wanted to compliment you on the pain you go through to sort things out properly instead of just jury rigging. I have been put to shame by your level of commitment. Many Kudos and keep up the good work.

So when do you think you will get to hear it for the first time? Running it without exhaust is truly a sweat cacophony of noise that only autophiles can appreciate, it gets your blood pumping for sure, next thing you know you run around the house with goggles and gloves on, soot on your face; ready for the next 1930s


fierocarparts (doyouneedparts@yahoo.com) MSG #149, 11-11-2009 10:02 AM
      Nice tool find!
Yea I was disappointed that I couldn't get the sending unit to actually read EMPTY when it is in fact empty. I tried it out of the tank and on the bottom rest of the sending unit, the gauge still showed a little over an 1/8th of a tank. I considered filing on the plastic stop. That is one thing that has ALWAYS bothered me about the Fiero.
Let me know if you are getting close, might drive down just to hear it and bring you some more parts.



josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #150, 11-11-2009 10:36 AM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by fierocarparts:

Nice tool find!
Yea I was disappointed that I couldn't get the sending unit to actually read EMPTY when it is in fact empty. I tried it out of the tank and on the bottom rest of the sending unit, the gauge still showed a little over an 1/8th of a tank. I considered filing on the plastic stop. That is one thing that has ALWAYS bothered me about the Fiero.
Let me know if you are getting close, might drive down just to hear it and bring you some more parts.



Pretty quick now I will try to start it for the first time. Then I'll be dropping it out for some things I didn't do before I raised it up in the engine bay. I have bad back pains today and didn't get to work today. I don't think I will be able to work on the car because of my back.



Dan_Seattle (dan_michelle@verizon.net) MSG #151, 11-11-2009 11:45 AM
      Josef, you're getting close. Take care of your back first, rest up a little. The Fiero will still be there waiting for you when you're ready.

On the fuel gauge thing: bugs me as well they always seem to read empty when there's still almost 2 gallons left in the tank. At least on my 88' it's that way. But I know running low on fuel puts more stress on the pump. The fuel isn't as cool so the pump runs warmer. So not sure I'll ever bother to "fix" that little quirk.


josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #152, 11-11-2009 11:59 AM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by Dizzixx:

Hey man I just read your whole thread and wanted to compliment you on the pain you go through to sort things out properly instead of just jury rigging. I have been put to shame by your level of commitment. Many Kudos and keep up the good work.

So when do you think you will get to hear it for the first time? Running it without exhaust is truly a sweat cacophony of noise that only autophiles can appreciate, it gets your blood pumping for sure, next thing you know you run around the house with goggles and gloves on, soot on your face; ready for the next 1930s


Thanks for the complements Dizzixx. I had a 1957 Cadillac V8 engine and transmission in 1963 on the floor of my parents garage. They would get hot when I would pour a dab of gas down the carb and fire it off with a battery. I never ran it more than about 15 seconds. Sometimes fire would shoot up threw the carb if I poured to much gas out of the coke bottle. I know it was dumb, but. Better than Viagra!!
Joe

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 11-11-2009).]

Fieroseverywhere (caalon777@hotmail.com) MSG #153, 11-11-2009 04:24 PM
      Get a video for us of the first start. Thats the best part. Especially when it doesn't have a full exhaust system yet. The 4.9 just sounds mean when its down piped. I wish I would have started mine before I completed the exhaust. I missed out big.

josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #154, 11-11-2009 04:29 PM
      My Sony digital camera will do small "movie files" of some sort. I'll just have to figure out how to get it up and posted.

Fieroseverywhere (caalon777@hotmail.com) MSG #155, 11-11-2009 05:45 PM
      http://www.youtube.com/watc...ure=rec-HM-fresh+div

Youtube works. Most other video posting sites work also.

[This message has been edited by Fieroseverywhere (edited 11-11-2009).]

30+mpg (wshaw@par1.net) MSG #156, 11-11-2009 06:40 PM
      To get the fuel gauge to zero when empty:

Disassemble the IP enough to pull the needle off the gauge.

Glue the needle back on in a position reading slightly lower.

(How far past F does the gauge go when the tank is full, anyway.)


josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #157, 11-11-2009 10:45 PM
      Got the oil filter bypass finished today. Easy job.

My thread on performing this modification:
http://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum2/HTML/104610.html

Page 5 coming up soon

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 11-11-2009).]

Fieroseverywhere (caalon777@hotmail.com) MSG #158, 11-12-2009 09:43 AM
      I was thinking about it last night. If you need you can e-mail a video and I can post it for you. I use filezilla and host on captfiero.com. I can pretty much post anything in any format. Then you wouldn't have to open a youtube account if you don't already have one.

You are so close now!


Mickey_Moose (edmontonfieros@shaw.ca) MSG #159, 11-12-2009 10:58 AM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by Fieroseverywhere:

Get a video for us of the first start. Thats the best part. Especially when it doesn't have a full exhaust system yet. The 4.9 just sounds mean when its down piped. I wish I would have started mine before I completed the exhaust. I missed out big.


going through some old stuff

Here is my 4.9/Fiero harness out of the car (less cruise wire plug, injector harness (on the car) and the C500):


Also found a crappy video of my first drive (I lost the first startup video (and others) due to a hard drive crash way back) no exhaust after the manifolds and wheel alignment way off:
http://members.shaw.ca/efog.../4.9/first_drive.avi

[This message has been edited by Mickey_Moose (edited 11-12-2009).]

Dan_Seattle (dan_michelle@verizon.net) MSG #160, 11-12-2009 11:56 AM
      Dude, your wife lets you bring car parts/stuff into the house?

josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #161, 11-12-2009 12:25 PM
      Neet Video Mickey_Moose. I must have watched it 5-6 times listening to the roar of the exhaust.Thanks for posting the link
Joe


I got page 5

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 11-12-2009).]

Fieroseverywhere (caalon777@hotmail.com) MSG #162, 11-12-2009 12:27 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by Mickey_Moose:

Also found a crappy video of my first drive (I lost the first startup video (and others) due to a hard drive crash way back) no exhaust after the manifolds and wheel alignment way off:
http://members.shaw.ca/efog.../4.9/first_drive.avi



Great video!

I never got a first drive vid. My first drive was around the parking lot at the shop. No VSS connected, EGR silonoid missing power wire, high idle from ISC out of adjustment, no ground on F7 & C10, no speedo, and tack reading high. It was a mess. It still felt faster then any other fiero I had driven at that time. A real seat of the pants drive. I wasn't sure if it was going to hold together or not. It was great!



Dan_Seattle (dan_michelle@verizon.net) MSG #163, 11-12-2009 01:47 PM
      First drive I ever did with mine there was still some unfinished pieces to the conversion. I was almost shaking with excitment/nervousness. Mainly watched the temp, oil pressure etc. Each time out was a little longer over the course of the next few weeks as I finished up other little parts of the conversion.

Fieroseverywhere (caalon777@hotmail.com) MSG #164, 11-12-2009 02:10 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by Dan_Seattle:

I was almost shaking with excitment/nervousness.


Lol! Best feeling ever! Ok, maybe not. Still, it makes all the trouble worth while.


Mickey_Moose (edmontonfieros@shaw.ca) MSG #165, 11-12-2009 04:12 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by Dan_Seattle:

Dude, your wife lets you bring car parts/stuff into the house?


So as long as it is clean and I don't leave them all over the kitchen...


josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #166, 11-12-2009 07:57 PM
      I cleaned and painted the oil filter adapter this afternoon. I used silver 'Hammered' looking paint on it. I will put two coats of clear engine enamel over the 'hammered' silver in the am after the dew burns off. It was 47* this morning at 700am, lots of dew. Had a breakdown on the tracator this morning and didn't get to do all I wanted to the 4.9.

Dennis LaGrua (dlagrua@comcast.net) MSG #167, 11-12-2009 09:34 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by josef644:

I had that happen on a 302 Ford once. I use a short piece of heater hose, and fit a metal plug in the end. Put a clamp on it, then just slide it on the nipple, and tighten a second clamp. On these 4.9 swaps it will never be seen anyway. Those rubber caps are worthless.
Joe Crawford


My technique is to fill the unused water outlet with black silicone sealant, then cap it off after it sets up.



josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #168, 11-13-2009 12:46 PM
      Oil filter adapter painted with hammered silver, and two coats of clear. I'll put it back on the car this afternoon.


Tuurned out real nice
and back on the engine:

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 11-13-2009).]

josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #169, 11-13-2009 10:43 PM
      Checking things out some more today. I found my ECM ground wires I had put out of the way to wire up last are not grounded to anything. I need to fix that. It is about 4-5 wires that come togeather. I want to ground these to the block, as the block will also be also have the NEG battery lead attaached to it. I need to add a chasis to engine ground. I need to add the POS batterey lead to the starter, and install a battery. I am thinking to add a long heaev gauge wire to the starter solinoid for easy spinning the engine over at this stage. I can always remove it later. I am gonna spin it over a bit to get the oil pressure back up before I try to fire it off sometime tomorrow.

I have been looking forward to this for 4 years now, since I got the Fiero bug real hard in 2006

Really Real Burning Hot Close


josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #170, 11-14-2009 05:02 PM
      Added the POS & NEG battery cables, starter jumper wire, shorty exhaust pipe, exhaust crossover pipe, tied up some wires to close to the exhaust. I capped off the brake booster vacume tube. I went and got 2.5 gals fresh fuel and added it in the tank. I will add another 2 gals after I see where the fuel gauge reads. I will install a new rotor underneath the dist cap, add the 8 spark plug wires and then give her a spin tomorrow. I could have finished up today, but.........

I was removed from my garage by brute force. A gray headed, rolling pin swinging grandmother threatened me with iminent bodily injury and making me sleep in the garage for the rest of the year if I didn't stop , clean up and go shopping with her.

She didn't think it was funny when I told her "OK, thats wonderful news, are you sure you wouldn't mind?" Dad-gum it my head hurts like sin!!!!!

Joe

Wish me luck guys
Snuck back outside and installed the new rotor. She never knew!!!!!!!

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 11-14-2009).]

josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #171, 11-15-2009 08:09 PM
      It's Alive!!!

After installing the spark plug wires and adding a battery, I unplugged the fuel pump fuse. Cranked it over until I had oil pressure. Pressure came up after just a few rev's. I poured a tablespoon of gas down each throttle bore. I reach in and turned the key. She hit and ran about 6 seconds. I hit the key again and it ran about 3-4 seconds without adding fuel again. I added some more gas and watched the oil pressure gage this time. It was about half way between 60 and 80 lbs of oil pressure while running. I plugged in the fuel pump fuse and added a test light to the ALDL Turned the key and the light come on for a bit . It comes back on when the starter is cranked over. I ran it about 50- 60 seconds today a litle bit at a time as I don't have a cooling system connected up yet. It would run as long as I kept adding fuel to the T body. I depressed the schrader valve and got a nice shot of gas leaving the fuel rail.

I am 100% sure I have the fuel supply line connected to the port on the right, and not the one that goes to the regulator. It is the return line. Right?

The engine idled fine untill all the fuel is exhausted from the throttle bores.
I will check for injector +12 at C203 'J & K'. If these are good, I'll move outside to the engine bay and see if I have +12 at the injector harness connector.

Speedo zeros when the key is turned or the engine was running.

Absolutly no viberation at all with the engine running.

No fuel or oil leaks anywhere

If I can get it to idle I will hook up my lapttop and test out the Dodgerunner's ALDL cable to see if it will run the TunnerPro software. I have added a jumper to ALDL pin 'E' from lead 'M' to see if this will work.

I have positioned my muffler's inlet up arount the exhaust stubbbie. The exhaust sounds real good.

I will make a video clip when I correct the fuel problem. A 6 second clip isn't worth the time to mess with it.

Did I say it sounds GREAT when it is running

+12 at he C203 J and K, and all the way out to the injector connector. They were lettered J and K there also. Go figure
Checking things over and discovered the green ECM connector was not seated all the way. VAts bypass is F10 in there. Pushed it and and started it up. Ran it about 15 seconds. Has a hard miss. It ran smooth and great on poured in gas. That by it self would eliminate the ingition. Has to be a either bad or miss wired injectors. I will check for miss wired injectors tomorrow. I will unplug the harness and route it inside the car by the ECM plugs. Ohm em all out

Is there a way to check the injectors with out taking them apart?

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 11-15-2009).]

olejoedad (welch.joe.714@gmail.com) MSG #172, 11-16-2009 12:28 AM
      Can you borrow a set of NOID lights?

Fieroseverywhere (caalon777@hotmail.com) MSG #173, 11-16-2009 10:25 AM
      Great work!!

On your injector wires. Double check the black/red wires. I may be wrong on the exact color but there should be two of them the same color. Just make sure they are in the correct spots. If you look at the 92-93 wiring diagrams you will see what I'm talking about.

EDIT: http://members.shaw.ca/efog...service%20manual.pdf

Just double checked. According to the wiring diagram both wires are Blk/Lt blu. I'm pretty sure mine were blk/red. Check PCM pins C15 = injector #4, D14 = injector #7. Double check with a continuety tester to be sure they are in the right place. Wont idle well with them reversed. You can switch pins at the PCM if needed to easily correct the problem.

[This message has been edited by Fieroseverywhere (edited 11-16-2009).]

josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #174, 11-16-2009 10:50 AM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by olejoedad:

Can you borrow a set of NOID lights?


Gonna look for a set today


Mickey_Moose (edmontonfieros@shaw.ca) MSG #175, 11-16-2009 01:09 PM
      as posted in other thread, is your VATS (passkey) disabled? If not that is the reason why...

josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #176, 11-16-2009 01:47 PM
      No luck on finding NOIDS Lites here

 
quote
Originally posted by Mickey_Moose:

fuel problem could be VATS (passkey) - did you have it programmed out?


I have a Baker Electronix VATS by pass. And the green Led is on. I also verified the connection to ECM F10. It has to be working or I wouldn't be able to get it to run from the injectors for around 12-15 seconds before I killed the ingnition.

Would it help or hinder for me to remove the 8 injectors and put them in a quart of thinner to help get them unstopped?

Gonna go remove the injector part of the harness now to verify the connections with the pin positions.

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 11-16-2009).]

josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #177, 11-16-2009 05:46 PM
      All ten injector wires check out perfect all the way from the ECM to the injector connector. I did find two wires like shown in these pictures The wires were twisted 360* and were shorting out:



# 6 & 8 injectors were wet, all the rest were dry.

Im gonna remove the injectors from the fuel rails and clean them up good with some fresh gas. I will order new 'O' rings for the bottom and tops tomorrow. I'm gonna set up and do a quick spray test with the rails and injectors off of the engine as fieroguru suggested.

 
quote
Originally posted by fieroguru:

You probably have at least 1 if not more plugged injectors (these 4.9's are notorious for them).

Last 4.9 swap I did, the 64K mile engine had 3-4 clogged injectors. Took the fuel rail/injectors off another engine and every one of them was clogged.

I made a little injector test stand along side the car, ran the fuel return/supply to it and jumpered the fuel pump to stay on. Then made a jumper harness that plugged into the injector harness and added 12V and ground to let them spray... just make sure there are no sparks/fires/ignitions sources around and only spray them long enough to check the pattern of each.


Thats a great idea, I never would have thought of doing this.

I just went to Rockauto to check prices, they were $57.00 and up, to $112.00 each.

Nothing left to do tonight

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 11-16-2009).]

30+mpg (wshaw@par1.net) MSG #178, 11-16-2009 06:45 PM
      If you have 2 wires & a 9v battery here's a simple injector test.

1. Clip a couple of alligator clip ended wires to a removed injector.

2. Place a few drops of gas in the injector inlet.

3. Pressurize the injector by placing the inlet end in your mouth and blowing while touching the leads to a 9v battery.

4. The voltage should activate the injector which will let you see the gas squirting out of the nozzle end.

If the battery doesn't activate the solenoid in the injector, it's bad.

If the solenoid moves the plunger but no gas squirts out, the injector is clogged.

If the gas only drips out instead of sprays the injector is still clogged, just not as bad as above.

Ralph Nader types: ignore this post.

[This message has been edited by 30+mpg (edited 11-16-2009).]

josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #179, 11-16-2009 07:44 PM
      I guess I could just use a piece of fuel hose on the top of the injector, and add a dab of air pressure. Say 10lbs? I also have a 12 V lawn mower battery. And I would think one could use just about any type of petroluem based liquid, gas , diesel or what ever is in the shop.

I hate the taste of gas.

Great ideas here.

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 11-16-2009).]

fieroguru MSG #180, 11-17-2009 08:50 AM
      You really need to check them at operating pressure with fuel.... since there are several failure modes for injectors: Stuck closed, Stuck open, and partially clogged producing a poor spray pattern and less fuel delivery.

I will have to go back and check some PM's, but a set of 8 rebuilt injectors was around $150.

[This message has been edited by fieroguru (edited 11-17-2009).]

Dan_Seattle (dan_michelle@verizon.net) MSG #181, 11-17-2009 09:36 AM
      Josef,

When my Formula still had the 2.8 in it, it sort of had a similar issue. Hadn't run in over a year, It would fire off the cold start injector or if you sprayed a little fuel down the intake etc. I didn't pull the injectors off, I kept my gas pedal 100% depressed to the floor while trying to start it. It isn't often full fuel pressure is ever delivered to injectors. Believe it or not, it worked. Engine started to stumble, them finally light on it's own and eventually run. The more I flogged the throttle (while driving at this point), the better it continued to run.

Warning though, it puts a little stress on the starter in the begining and in the end, I should have just pulled the injectors and had them all hydrostatically cleaned and tested. But in the end, the engine did run good with the "smash foot to floor" method.


Fieroseverywhere (caalon777@hotmail.com) MSG #182, 11-17-2009 09:51 AM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by Dan_Seattle:

I didn't pull the injectors off, I kept my gas pedal 100% depressed to the floor while trying to start it.


This wont work with a 4.9. With the car off and gas pedal fully pressed (High TPS reading) the PCM puts the car into "clear flood mode" and cuts all fuel delivery.




Dan_Seattle (dan_michelle@verizon.net) MSG #183, 11-17-2009 09:53 AM
      Oh well, glad I didn't make him waste time with it then.

Mickey_Moose (edmontonfieros@shaw.ca) MSG #184, 11-17-2009 10:04 AM
      From the 'other' thread:

 
quote
Originally posted by josef644:

After installing the spark plug wires and adding a battery, I unplugged the fuel pump fuse. Cranked it over until I had oil pressure. Pressure came up after just a few rev's. I poured a tablespoon of gas down each throttle bore. I reach in and turned the key. She hit and ran about 6 seconds. I hit the key again and it ran about 3-4 seconds without adding fuel again. I added some more gas and watched the oil pressure gage this time. It was about half way between 60 and 80 lbs of oil pressure while running. I plugged in the fuel pump fuse and added a test light to the ALDL Turned the key and the light come on for a bit . It comes back on when the starter is cranked over. I ran it about 50- 60 seconds today a litle bit at a time as I don't have a cooling system connected up yet. It would run as long as I kept adding fuel to the T body. I depressed the schrader valve and got a nice shot of gas leaving the fuel rail.

I am 100% sure I have the fuel supply line connected to the port on the right, and not the one that goes to the regulator. It is the return line. Right?

The engine idled fine untill all the fuel is exhausted from the throttle bores.
I will check for injector +12 at C203 'J & K'. If these are good, I'll move outside to the engine bay and see if I have +12 at the injector harness connector.




 
quote
Originally posted by josef644:
I have a Baker Electronix VATS by pass. And the green Led is on. I also verified the connection to ECM F10. It has to be working or I wouldn't be able to get it to run from the injectors for around 12-15 seconds

Would it help or hinder for me to remove the 8 injectors and put them in a quart of thinner to help get them unstopped?

I like the little test on the injectors you did


In your first post, you mention that it runs only when you add fuel to the throttle body (injectors not firing). Part of the function of the VATS is to disable the fuel system after 2-3 secs after startup - the car will run if force fed, but the injector will not fire (VATS also disables the starter, but this does not apply to the Fiero unless you wired it up as it is in the Caddy with the VATS relay and such). If your car will start (without adding fuel to the throttle body) and stall shortly after, it is most likely a VATS issue. Are you running the correct frequency on the bypass module? I don't recall off hand right now if the 4.9 is running the 50Hz or the 60Hz signal (this may also depend on the year of the program that is in the ECM) - try switching the frequency if your module lets you and try that. I just checked and it seems Rockcrawl has removed that info from his website.

Injectors: Don't use thinner on them, you may damage the insulation on the coils - use injector or carb/throttle body cleaner. Check out Dodgerunner's post here: http://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum2/HTML/096900.html

[This message has been edited by Mickey_Moose (edited 11-17-2009).]

josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #185, 11-17-2009 11:20 AM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by Mickey_Moose:

In your first post, you mention that it runs only when you add fuel to the throttle body (injectors not firing). Part of the function of the VATS is to disable the fuel system after 2-3 secs after startup - the car will run if force fed, but the injector will not fire (VATS also disables the starter, but this does not apply to the Fiero unless you wired it up as it is in the Caddy with the VATS relay and such). If your car will start (without adding fuel to the throttle body) and stall shortly after, it is most likely a VATS issue. Are you running the correct frequency on the bypass module? I don't recall off hand right now if the 4.9 is running the 50Hz or the 60Hz signal (this may also depend on the year of the program that is in the ECM) - try switching the frequency if your module lets you and try that. I just checked and it seems Rockcrawl has removed that info from his website.

Injectors: Don't use thinner on them, you may damage the insulation on the coils - use injector or carb/throttle body cleaner. Check out Dodgerunner's post here: http://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum2/HTML/096900.html



Here is my Baker order:
VATS PASSkeyII Bypass
Item# VATS , LED Color: Green , VATS Signal: 30 Hz $25.00 USD 1 $25.00 USD"

And a part of their list of 30 Hz autos
Known PCMs or vehicles that used the 30 Hz VATS:
1993 Camaro (The 88,90 & 92 may or may not be 30Hz)
1990-93 Cadillac Deville (The 89 may or may not be 30Hz)
1993 Oldsmobile 88

So guess you are thinking I need to send the prom to Stickpony to correct the VATS part of the programing?
I have started it off of the injectors and ran it for about 12-14 seconds. I had a real bad miss or maybe more than one miss, and I was having a hard time keeping the engine running.

I thought that if the VATS was the problem, I wouldn't have been able to run it ofer 2-3 seconds before the ECM turned off the fueling

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 11-17-2009).]

josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #186, 11-17-2009 11:52 AM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by fieroguru:

You really need to check them at operating pressure with fuel.... since there are several failure modes for injectors: Stuck closed, Stuck open, and partially clogged producing a poor spray pattern and less fuel delivery.

I will have to go back and check some PM's, but a set of 8 rebuilt injectors was around $150.



Mr Injector will do a full rebuild service on my injectors for 128.00


Fieroseverywhere (caalon777@hotmail.com) MSG #187, 11-17-2009 12:04 PM
      90-93 4.9 is 30hz. 94-95 is 60hz. Looks like that is right. Based on how long it ran I'd bete the vats bypass is working correctly. Can't you verify this with a scanner?

You can use two jumper wires (one +12V, one ground) to test each individual injector if you remove the connectors. This will at least tell you if they are firing.

Have you tried the injectors again since fixing the shorting wires?

[This message has been edited by Fieroseverywhere (edited 11-17-2009).]

josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #188, 11-17-2009 12:19 PM
      I havent done anything to it since yesterday. I have located the kits for cleaning for $23.00
Mr Injector:
http://www.mrinjector.us/index.html
And

http://www.fuelinjectorconn...?_a=viewCat&catId=50

I can work the injectors wirh two wires to listen for the clicks. I have been reading on the net about flow rate, cleaning etc.
Not sure on the best way to clean these up yet. It seams that washing them off with some gas, and blowing them off is about as effective as one can do at home. Changing the prindle cap, O rings and the filter would be a good idea, and cheap to do.

I am gonna remove the injectors from the rails today and do some type of test to them to check for stopped up or stuck open conditions. I will post my findings afterwards.

I just got off of the phone with Mr Injector. Bill offerd me good suggestions and advise. He is the top link above. He recommends using a Max 8700 Choke and Carb with the little plastic squirt nozzel, and a rubber plug to force the spray inside the injector with the filter screen removed. Apply 9 volts to the connector. This should get it working better than just soaking overniight in a carb cleaner.
His EBay store:
http://stores.ebay.com/Mr-Injector.

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 11-19-2009).]

josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #189, 11-17-2009 05:58 PM
      I removed all 8 injectors from the fuel rails. The rail ends of the injectors had this awful smell and a chocolate brown color on inlet end where the filters insert:
Here is what I used to remove the filters from the inlet on the top:


Just screw in the patented filter remover, and pull it out. I used the side cutters because it was a bit larger and gave me better leverage
A shot of all 8 removed and the patented fuel injection filter remover:


8 injectors ready to be cleaned up and tested sometime tomorrow.


A bit of sour gas was in the top of all 8 injectors

I went to the hardware store an scored me a brass adapter so I can connect the pressure gauge to the fuel rail after I reinstall this mess:



Fieroseverywhere (caalon777@hotmail.com) MSG #190, 11-17-2009 08:29 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by josef644:

Just screw in the patented filter remover, and pull it out.


Ha! Thats a classic there!


josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #191, 11-17-2009 10:58 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by Fieroseverywhere:


Ha! Thats a classic there!


I knew someone would enjoy that


Mickey_Moose (edmontonfieros@shaw.ca) MSG #192, 11-18-2009 09:25 AM
     

...but mind if I ask a stupid question? Where exactly are the filter in relation to the injector body (I know this is probably obvious if I would just look at the injectors). You go the replacement filter from (Mr. Injector)?

Cheers,


josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #193, 11-18-2009 10:14 AM
      Sorry M_M, I assumed you had removed one in the past for some reason.

I ordered the injector service kit yesterday, $24.00 delivered.

Here are some pictures of the placement of the filter:

and in the injector but not seated:


I want to give credit to whoever wrote this web page on how to clean their injectors in the link below. I recommend taking the 5 mins or so to read his instructions. The names Mike and Debbie are at the bottom of the page:
http://www.rowand.net/shop/...InjectorCleaning.htm

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 11-18-2009).]

Fieroseverywhere (caalon777@hotmail.com) MSG #194, 11-18-2009 11:42 AM
      Very good article. I took a quick peek for a ultrasonic cleaner and found this...

http://www.geeks.com/detail...utm_campaign=CD-2800

Has a stainless steel tank and looks like it would work well. Worth the money for $20 + shipping. I think I'm going to order one up and get a rebuild kit for my injectors also. I'm pretty sure at least one leaks. I just need to find a good, non-flamable liquid to use in the cleaner. Thanks for posting the info Joe.

[This message has been edited by Fieroseverywhere (edited 11-18-2009).]

Mickey_Moose (edmontonfieros@shaw.ca) MSG #195, 11-18-2009 11:54 AM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by Fieroseverywhere:

Very good article. I took a quick peek for a ultrasonic cleaner and found this...



Yes I would recommend picking up a cheaper ultrasonic cleaner as they work quite well. I have cleaned my 2.8 and 4.9 injectors with one and it made a big difference. On a side note I also used the cleaner to do the door latches on the one car and boy that sure made a difference in the power locks.

josef644 >> thanks for the pictures, that is how I assumed they came apart.


josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #196, 11-18-2009 01:59 PM
      Well I collected all my 'Patented" fuel injector checker parts
one can of Max's 8700 Carb and Choke cleaner
8 " of 5/8" heater hose w/ one ty strap
Air nose putton pushed compressed air on and off unit
one used trunk lock popper button off of a 91 Deville, not seen in the first photo
one lawn mower battery
wire and connectors


Assemble 'Patented" injector checker


The 5/8th hose fits good on the top of the injector. I turned on the air compressor untill I had 40 lbs of air pressure. I put the hose on the injector. Add a bit of the Max's 8700 Carb and Choke cleaner from NAPA, insert the air nozzel into the hose and hold the button down on the air nozzel. I pushed the button up and down and watched for a spray. I was rewarded three times. I had one that would omly drip at first, but was able to clear it up. I had two that I had to play with a bit to get them to un plug an spray. I have six working injectors now. Two have refused to cooperate. I am gonna soak them over night in gas or a carb cleaner of some type. I usually use laquier thinner for carb parts, but I'm not so sure if I want to put these plastic injectors in that kind of thinner.

6 good, and they have a nice TIC<TIC<TIC when the power is applied to the injectors
2 Deceased

Edited to add :
The two deceased ones are now in Berryman's Chem Dip for overnight.

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 11-18-2009).]

josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #197, 11-18-2009 04:38 PM
      Went outside and removed the TB so I could do a good job cleaning the intake around where the injectors plug back in . Got it all cleaned pretty good and saw this. What tha hell is this? :


I put my shop vac in the throttle bore and turned it on. This is the rear one, and I could hear and feel air coming threw the injector holes on the forward bank.

At first I thought maybe EGR path, as it is right behind this intake bore. But the air flow is on the other side of the intake.

The other bore has a shorter one, but it isn't stopped up near this bad.

Took my finger and feeled of it. Its simi soft. Not crunchy like burnt ERG waste is that I have had to dig out of SBC engines before.


Edit to ask:

When you guys have replace thte fuel rails to the intake, what method did you use? As a one piece unit, or take the two sides apart? When I removed it from the in take, I started on the forward bank alt end, rear alt end, Rear transm end, then the forward bank transm end. Just wondered what worked best for everyone. I want to have the harness on the underside as Fieroseverywhere suggested before I stab it on.

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 11-18-2009).]

Fieroseverywhere (caalon777@hotmail.com) MSG #198, 11-18-2009 07:11 PM
      I replace as a full unit. Never had a problem that way.

On a side note a wrecking yard close to me wants 76 dollars for a caddy fuel rail with all injectors, harness, and regulator attached. They have a few if your interested. I'm going to pick one up for a fuel rail project.


josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #199, 11-18-2009 07:32 PM
      I'll see what happends after I get them out of the Chem Dip tomorrow. I will be mowing till 2 or so it'll be later in the day before I know if they cleaned up or not.

josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #200, 11-18-2009 08:18 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by Fieroseverywhere:

I replace as a full unit. Never had a problem that way.

On a side note a wrecking yard close to me wants 76 dollars for a caddy fuel rail with all injectors, harness, and regulator attached. They have a few if your interested. I'm going to pick one up for a fuel rail project.


Ok so one piece, and then what. Please don't tell me " Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure" like my Haynes does. ANY tips for easy replacement?

When I removed the rails from the intake the top O rings were still soft and puffed up,round-ish sort of. The ones from the intake were real flat on the sides. I know this is gonna be fun.


Fieroseverywhere (caalon777@hotmail.com) MSG #201, 11-18-2009 11:27 PM
      I don't know what to tell you exactly. Just line up the injectors with the holes in the intake manifold and press the rail down. Then add the bolts and torque to spec. There is no trick to it really. For me its always gone in quite a bit easier then it comes out. Almost too easy. I replaced my o-rings during the rebuild so I never had the joy of working with old ones. Hope this is somewhat helpful Joe.

EDIT: Page 6 is mine!!!
Your thread is already 2 pages longer then mine. The funny thing is I've been working on mine for almost 2 years.

[This message has been edited by Fieroseverywhere (edited 11-18-2009).]

Mickey_Moose (edmontonfieros@shaw.ca) MSG #202, 11-19-2009 09:47 AM
      install as one part - add some 3 in 1 oil to the o-rings to aid in them going into the holes (on both the manifold and fuel rail). Just set the rail on top of the manifold, line up the injectors and press down.

josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #203, 11-19-2009 04:15 PM
      Well one opened up, one refused. I am soaking the two ends with some PB blaster to see if it will free it up.

7 Working ,
1 Deceased still

I just ordered the little Ultrasonic Cleaner from Geeks.com.

Whats the best cleaning stuff to use in there?

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 11-19-2009).]

fierocarparts (doyouneedparts@yahoo.com) MSG #204, 11-19-2009 04:48 PM
      Joe,
I thought you took this out of a running driving car.



josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #205, 11-19-2009 05:24 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by fierocarparts:

Joe,
I thought you took this out of a running driving car.



No, I purchase the 91 Deville with a 85K 93 engine, and transmission. The 93 was bolted in the 91. Wiring was started. They quit working on it when the 91's round transmission connecrtor would not plug into the 4T60E. She sat dormant for 6-8 months before I purchased it in early April.
Joe

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 11-19-2009).]

Mickey_Moose (edmontonfieros@shaw.ca) MSG #206, 11-20-2009 01:42 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by josef644:

I just ordered the little Ultrasonic Cleaner from Geeks.com.

Whats the best cleaning stuff to use in there?



Water, hot is better - even better if the cleaner you bought has a heater. There is a special soap to use in the cleaner, andy local place that sells/services these should have it.

NEVER use anything that is flamable in an utrasonic cleaner.


josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #207, 11-20-2009 01:44 PM
      Whats a good amount time to leave it in the cleaner M_M?

30+mpg (wshaw@par1.net) MSG #208, 11-20-2009 06:16 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by josef644:....
Assemble 'Patented" injector checker

...


"+" for you for taking an idea and improving upon it.



josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #209, 11-20-2009 07:06 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by 30+mpg:


"+" for you for taking an idea and improving upon it.


Well, I just mod-i-fied your idea a bit. But thanks
Joe

I just got my injector kit in the mail from Mr Injector, $24.00 more in the kitty.

My Untrasonic cleaner will be here Tuesday. I am gonna run them all threw a bit before I put them back togeather. I have sprayed PB blaster in the top and bottom holes of all eight injectors. Mr Injector's recommendation to use WD 40 or something to prevent and rust. I figured it wouldn' hurt to use the 'Blaster'

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 11-21-2009).]

johnsop1 (philipljohnson@comcast.net) MSG #210, 11-21-2009 10:20 PM
      It looks like I am always about three steps behind you Joe. I am planning to turn the key on my 4.9 for the first time tomorrow.

Wish me luck.


josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #211, 11-22-2009 01:10 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by johnsop1:

It looks like I am always about three steps behind you Joe. I am planning to turn the key on my 4.9 for the first time tomorrow.

Wish me luck.


Well congradulations, and 'Good Luck' to you myfriend. May your injectors be un-clogged, and your oil prressure be perfect.

Do yourself a favor and make sure you have oil in the engine. For some reason I checked mine just before I turned it over. 5 low.

Let us know what happens
Joe

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 01-04-2010).]

josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #212, 11-22-2009 03:47 PM
      I cut wire 'G' on the AC actuator today and ran two wires out to the accumulator. I installed a compressor cycling switch and wired this all togeather. Back in the cabin I connected the two new wires to the ends of wire 'G' . I now have a low pressure / compressor cycling switch in the line as a Fiero V6 would have that uses the same HR6 compressor. I will add a high pressure cut off switch to the high side port under the accumulator before I add R134A.

Thanks to fierocarparts for the donated factory connector and switch. Steve, You Da Man.

I had added a grounding eye and connected it to the compressor control relay, and the fuel pump relay. But I have changed my mind and will run these two wires insde the cabin and ground them to the ECM ground wires. It has it's own grounding eye. This way it will clean up some of the wires inside the engine bay. Also all the wires running to the FP and AC relay's will be togeather and no wires leaving that part of the looming. See the FP relay in the picture below. It will work out much better.

After seeing this picture from Mickey_Moose I have decided to redo some of my harness to attempt to correct some of my 'rats nest' on the engine.
 
quote
Originally posted by Mickey_Moose:




I am sure I will not get it to look that nice, but better than what I now have. Thanks MIckey_Moose for the inspiration.
Thats all today

Joe

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 11-22-2009).]

Mickey_Moose (edmontonfieros@shaw.ca) MSG #213, 11-23-2009 02:15 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by josef644:

Whats a good amount time to leave it in the cleaner M_M?


I usually run it for about 3 hours at about 80°C - maybe over kill, but that is what I have done and had no issues ( 3 sets of 2.8, 4 sets of 4.9 and 2 sets of the Ford 19lbs injectors - used in a couple of 4.9's). I then blew air through the injectors (activated) both ways.

 
quote
Originally posted by josef644:
After seeing this picture from Mickey_Moose I have decided to redo some of my harness to attempt to correct some of my 'rats nest' on the engine.
I am sure I will not get it to look that nice, but better than what I now have. Thanks MIckey_Moose for the inspiration.
Thats all today

Joe


np

[This message has been edited by Mickey_Moose (edited 11-23-2009).]

josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #214, 11-23-2009 04:51 PM
      Thanks M_M, I am in your debt again
Joe


johnsop1 (philipljohnson@comcast.net) MSG #215, 11-24-2009 06:34 PM
     
 
quote

Well congradulations, and 'Good Luck' to you myfriend. My your injectors be un-clogged, and your oil prressure be perfect.

Do yourself a favor and make sure you have oil in the engine. For some reason I checked mine just before I turned it over. 5 low.

Let us know what happens
Joe


That was good advice about the oil. My oil pan was dry.

I don't have my fuel lines connected yet, but wanted to see if the starter would at least crank over the motor. I disconnected the fuel pump relay so that fuel wouldn't squirt all over the engine compartment and burn down the garage. Then I hit the key and the motor cranked smoothly, best of all the accessory belt didn't fly off. So far so good.

I couldn't resist. I poured a little gas down the throttle body and then hit the key. It lit right up!

I am a happy man. The ignition works, now it's time to finish the fuel system.


josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #216, 11-24-2009 07:57 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by johnsop1:


That was good advice about the oil. My oil pan was dry.

I don't have my fuel lines connected yet, but wanted to see if the starter would at least crank over the motor. I disconnected the fuel pump relay so that fuel wouldn't squirt all over the engine compartment and burn down the garage. Then I hit the key and the motor cranked smoothly, best of all the accessory belt didn't fly off. So far so good.

I couldn't resist. I poured a little gas down the throttle body and then hit the key. It lit right up!

I am a happy man. The ignition works, now it's time to finish the fuel system.


Big smile too I'll bet. I was just there a few days ago. I'm still grinnin!!!!!!!!!

I am at a stand still until I can get all 8 injectors to fire. One is still refusing to squirt. I have an ultrasonic cleaner that is supposed to be here tomorrow. If that doesn't work I will have to wait untill Christmas presents for the grandchildren is finished before I can play with the budget . I am gonna start on the exhaust I think next week, as I have most of that stuff here now. We will have grandchildren here untill Sunday afternoon. No playtime allowed.


josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #217, 11-25-2009 05:30 PM
      Got my Ultrasonice cleaner off of the Fedex truck today. I have the injector in there now. It only runs for three min's at a time, so I have to keep turning it on. I am gonna run it threw a hour and a half befor I try to see if it will squirt tomorrow sometime. I have had some PB Blaster in bithn ends for the past few days.

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 11-25-2009).]

Fieroseverywhere (caalon777@hotmail.com) MSG #218, 11-25-2009 06:20 PM
      You can't override the 3 minute timer? You might be able to bypass it. Dont' mind me. I modify everything.

Mickey_Moose (edmontonfieros@shaw.ca) MSG #219, 11-25-2009 06:32 PM
      Just a thought before you waste too much time on the injector - check it with an ohm meter. Put the meter across the 2 pins - should be low resistance, if not the coil is bad.

josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #220, 11-25-2009 07:31 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by Mickey_Moose:

Just a thought before you waste too much time on the injector - check it with an ohm meter. Put the meter across the 2 pins - should be low resistance, if not the coil is bad.


Great idea. Ill do it right now and get back to you.

Set on 200K it measured 00.0
A good one measured 00.0,
On scale 200
Bad one 16.3
Good one 16.4
I checked three on the 200 scale from the 'good' pile. They all measure 16.XX
 
quote
Originally posted by Fieroseverywhere:

You can't override the 3 minute timer? You might be able to bypass it. Dont' mind me. I modify everything.


I'll just let it be I think. I have it here in my computer room. When it kicks off I'll just push the on button again.

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 11-26-2009).]

josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #221, 11-26-2009 11:25 AM
      # 8 is clear today. I don't know if it was the ultrasonic cleaning in 180* water for an hour and a half, or the PB Blaster in the two ends for three days. I have a feeling that it was the PB Blaster, as the liquid that came out first was the orange color of PB Blaster. I will do a final check of all 8 injectors before I assemble them back on the rails for installation.

I will not be able to put these back in the car untill Tuesday, as we have company here for Thanksgiving. Orders from the "BOSS"

Cathy and I want to wish a 'Happy Thanksgiving Day' to all our PFF friends and family. May your troubles be few and you joys be many.
Joe Crawford
Texas


josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #222, 11-29-2009 09:46 AM
      I retested all 8 injectors yesterday before I had to go to work. Two did not fire. I will be doing them untrasonic on all of these un processed injectors today at work. I have had PB Blaster on them since yesterday morning
Joe


rdean (rdean33422@aol.com) MSG #223, 11-29-2009 06:54 PM
      I bought a rebuilt set of injectors locally so I have some extra if you want them.
Finally got all the issues here covered and enjoyed a weekend of just smiling and cruising.

Ray


josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #224, 11-29-2009 11:09 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by rdean:

I bought a rebuilt set of injectors locally so I have some extra if you want them.
Finally got all the issues here covered and enjoyed a weekend of just smiling and cruising.

Ray


If these two don't clear up I might take you up on the offer. 3 hours in hot water in an Unltasonic cleaner today. I'll be testing them again Monday at lunch.


Rdean PM sent

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 11-29-2009).]

josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #225, 11-30-2009 12:56 PM
      Well I tested these two non working injectors again this morning. Both were working good. I guess 3 hours or so in the Ultra sonic did some good. I will test all 8 once more tomorrow before I put them all back on the fuel rails . I wanna hear that V8 running in my garage before I have to go to work at 1:30pm
Joe

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 11-30-2009).]

josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #226, 12-01-2009 01:48 PM
      I did a test on all 8 this morning. Two will only work in the backflush direction, and not the top to bottom direction. I am at a stop untill I have 8 working injectors. Rdean has his old ones and offered to send them to me. Maybe I can get two of those to work .
Joe


rdean (rdean33422@aol.com) MSG #227, 12-01-2009 04:20 PM
      Sent you a PM

How fast do you want them shipped?



josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #228, 12-01-2009 11:13 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by rdean:

Sent you a PM

How fast do you want them shipped?


Priority Mail 3- 5 days is fine.
And thanks
Joe

Edited to add:
After cleaning the two non working injectors in the Ultrasonic cleaner and hot water for 4 hours yesterday, I have one still refusing to cooperate. One unhappy camper. It will backflush, but not spray. I am gonna wait for the ones rdean is sending before proceeding.

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 12-02-2009).]

rdean (rdean33422@aol.com) MSG #229, 12-02-2009 03:24 PM
      Sent and gone. should be there Friday or Saturday.
I threw in a couple of extras just in case.

Ray


josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #230, 12-02-2009 04:26 PM
      Ray ,ya just got a +
And Thanks
Joe

Edited to add:

My thrread on how to remove 4.9 Fuel Rails and injectors:
http://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum2/HTML/105057.html

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 12-02-2009).]

josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #231, 12-03-2009 06:44 PM
      Installed one V6 automatic radiator.

And just for information:
Just for information. This also fits other GM:

and, but the arrow pointing to the front of the car is incorrect

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 12-03-2009).]

Nhebayer (nhebayer@yahoo.com) MSG #232, 12-04-2009 04:51 AM
      My First post. Been following for awhile... But had trouble getting signed up so I could post. LOL

Awesome job on this... I will be starting the same project in a cpl of weeks. Your level of detail is great.. Easy to follow.

Thank you
Reaney


josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #233, 12-04-2009 09:20 AM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by Nhebayer:

My First post. Been following for awhile... But had trouble getting signed up so I could post. LOL

Awesome job on this... I will be starting the same project in a cpl of weeks. Your level of detail is great.. Easy to follow.

Thank you
Reaney


Thanks for the kind words Reaney, and good luck on your swap.
Joe


Dan_Seattle (dan_michelle@verizon.net) MSG #234, 12-04-2009 09:42 AM
      Close, so close!

I know mine is a little different than yours, but I've done some tuning on it and now seem to be averaging around 25mpg. I still need to get the 195 thermostat in mine. I think I popped in a 180 durring the summer months. Dumb and wasn't needed. Got any pictures of your car in it's current state for us?


fierocarparts (doyouneedparts@yahoo.com) MSG #235, 12-04-2009 09:57 AM
      It is Friday and Joe is out in his S-10 by the mailbox, with the heater running waiting for his injectors!
I think Christmas will come early for Joe.


Dan_Seattle (dan_michelle@verizon.net) MSG #236, 12-04-2009 10:24 AM
      Too funny! Yeah, I would be myself.

Fieroseverywhere (caalon777@hotmail.com) MSG #237, 12-04-2009 10:26 AM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by Dan_Seattle:

Close, so close!

I know mine is a little different than yours, but I've done some tuning on it and now seem to be averaging around 25mpg. I still need to get the 195 thermostat in mine. I think I popped in a 180 during the summer months. Dumb and wasn't needed.


I've got the same situation with my thermo. I was told it "had" to be used with the chip from stickpony (which I'm no longer using )With the 180 therm the car does not heat fully up on my commute. Figured I'd pick up a 195 this weekend. Just out of curosity, did you have the second fan switch setup also on yours? My second PCM fan output is setup 10 degrees higher. I think I'll wire in a winter/summer switch for easy changes between the 2 outputs.


josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #238, 12-04-2009 10:43 AM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by fierocarparts:

It is Friday and Joe is out in his S-10 by the mailbox, with the heater running waiting for his injectors!
I think Christmas will come early for Joe.


Gas is to expensive to waste sitting out here. Our mail is the last delivered of the day on this route. He's here between 3:30 and 4:00pm. I'm sitting here with my laptop and 4 thick blankets!!!
 
quote
Originally posted by Dan_Seattle:

Close, so close!

I know mine is a little different than yours, but I've done some tuning on it and now seem to be averaging around 25mpg. I still need to get the 195 thermostat in mine. I think I popped in a 180 durring the summer months. Dumb and wasn't needed. Got any pictures of your car in it's current state for us?


I saw about 2-3 MPG difference between the 180* and the 195* on my Duke. They prefer the hotter temps

Sure thing, but not much to see that has changed since the last ones I posted:
This shot shows the upper static Fiero storage area:

Gen u wine fierocarparts radiator installed two night ago:

Gen u wine fierocarparts 2.5 thermostat neck cut off and prepped for welding on the Caddie thermostat housing:

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 12-04-2009).]

josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #239, 12-04-2009 11:33 AM
      ,

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 12-04-2009).]

josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #240, 12-04-2009 11:34 AM
      I thought this would be on page 7, but I was wrong. Who ever post next will be page 7

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 12-04-2009).]

Dan_Seattle (dan_michelle@verizon.net) MSG #241, 12-04-2009 11:39 AM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by Fieroseverywhere:


I've got the same situation with my thermo. I was told it "had" to be used with the chip from stickpony (which I'm no longer using )With the 180 therm the car does not heat fully up on my commute. Figured I'd pick up a 195 this weekend. Just out of curosity, did you have the second fan switch setup also on yours? My second PCM fan output is setup 10 degrees higher. I think I'll wire in a winter/summer switch for easy changes between the 2 outputs.


Yeah, I have the lower temp fan switch. I'm changing everything back to 195 though. It's what the ECM and engine were designed to run at. Here in WA, not an issue anyway summer or winter.


josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #242, 12-04-2009 03:59 PM
      I got four injectors in the mail today. It's just to nasty, (33* outside), to go out and check them out. I remove the old screen filters before I put them into the Ultrasonic cleaner. I have 25% chance of having at least one good one in that box. One will do!!!!!!. If I can get this going I'll add the fuel rail and throttle body back to the engine Sunday or Monday. Its supposed to be in the 50's again by Sunday afternoon.
Joe

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 12-12-2009).]

josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #243, 12-05-2009 08:03 PM
      I was able to test these injectors today. 3 were working wonderfully. One was off a small bit, it didn't spray as good as the others. I plan on getting this back on the car tomorrow or Monday, and see if she will fire up and run off of the injectors. I am gonna clean two of these in the Ultrasonic cleaner for two hours tomorrow before re-assembly.

josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #244, 12-06-2009 01:53 PM
      I removed an outter CV shaft for V8 Archie a while ago. I have two of the injectors that tested best in hot water now , inside the Ultrasonic cleaner. I am going to clean them for about two hours, then blow them off . Tomorrow I will replace the injectors and rails on the engine. We are having a tropical heat wave here today. Supposed to get up to 45.

Dan_Seattle (dan_michelle@verizon.net) MSG #245, 12-07-2009 10:23 AM
      It isn't getting above freezing this week up here.

Keep us posted!

I popped in my 195 T-stat yesterday, ah, much better, I have cabin heat again.


Fieroseverywhere (caalon777@hotmail.com) MSG #246, 12-07-2009 10:49 AM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by Dan_Seattle:

It isn't getting above freezing this week up here.

Keep us posted!

I popped in my 195 T-stat yesterday, ah, much better, I have cabin heat again.


I'm finally getting to my thermostat today. The car never heated above 165 degrees F. I froze on the way to work today and the gas mileage sucks without closed loop..

Its not suppose to get this cold here this early in the season. High of 36 yesterday with 20-40mph winds. Looks like we may be in for a winter like last year. Now I remember why I get so much done on the fiero over the winter.


josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #247, 12-07-2009 04:49 PM
      I went outside and checked all 8 of the injectors I was planning on using. One of the two new ones that I had cleaned up yesterday evening would only back flush. It would not work top to bottom. I had to replace that one with a different one. I ran it threw the cleaner for an hour before installing it in the fuel rails. Oh, and I did trest it again before install.
Do not assume the injectors will work. Always test before installing

I replaced the injectors and the fuel rails today. Cleaned the clips and lined up the O rings. I used 5W 20 motor oil on the O rings, and in the intake holes where the injectors go.


O rings and clips on the injectors, and on the rails. Index the connectors to where you want them pointing before torquing down the six hold down bolts


And back on the intake. It only took half of the effort to seat the injectors as it did to pull them up. Real easy to do


Spent a while cleaning up my TB for instalation tomorrow.

I had to order a new throttle body gasket, so I won't try to fire it up untill tomorrow morning. No use putting the TB on, and having to remove it again tomorrow.

I added this same information on my 4.9 injector servicing thread.

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 12-07-2009).]

Fieroseverywhere (caalon777@hotmail.com) MSG #248, 12-07-2009 05:58 PM
      Those look purdy! They sure do shine up nice.

josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #249, 12-07-2009 06:29 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by Fieroseverywhere:

Those look purdy! They sure do shine up nice.


In the center picture, the two injectors on the far left are two that Dean sent me. The metal band was made out of a different metal than the rest of all the injectors I had here. They didn't shine up like the rest did. They did spray real nicely though.
Joe


Dan_Seattle (dan_michelle@verizon.net) MSG #250, 12-08-2009 09:28 AM
      Oh man, I was hoping to read about how great it runs now. Go get back to work.

josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #251, 12-08-2009 01:56 PM
      Well I turned the key switch two times to pressurize the fuel rails. I turned the key and it fired up with the first crank. I didn't even need to try it a second time. My neighbor heard the exhaust and came over to see what the noise was. I got my camera and took a 15 second movie of the fire off. It is running so smooth the engine didn't evan shake. I had the muffler off of the exhaust for this little clip. I am going to send it to Fieroseverywhere to post it up for me.

I don't have coolant, or the exhaust hooked up so that is all for now. I will start removing the cradle from the car so I can install the new water pump inlet, and finish up with the belt ideler and that stuff. I am going to change up some of my mounting brackets while it is out. We will add the exhaust on also.

IT'S ALIVE

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 12-25-2009).]

Fieroseverywhere (caalon777@hotmail.com) MSG #252, 12-08-2009 02:34 PM
      I'll get it posted when I get home. ETA ~4 hours.

EDIT: As long as you send it to me.

[This message has been edited by Fieroseverywhere (edited 12-08-2009).]

josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #253, 12-08-2009 03:32 PM
      Lets try this:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7Cc86gu18l8

This is the best I can do. I don't know how to do the embedded viedo on here. When Fieroseveerywhere gets home he can pull this up and do the embedded thing.


Fieroseverywhere (caalon777@hotmail.com) MSG #254, 12-08-2009 04:41 PM
     

Finally got it. Had to check the archives to find it. Never posted directly from you tube before. Click edit on my post to see how.

[This message has been edited by Fieroseverywhere (edited 12-08-2009).]

rdean (rdean33422@aol.com) MSG #255, 12-08-2009 05:17 PM
      Excellent !!
Good job
Now for all the little things.
and then massive fun.


Ray


josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #256, 12-08-2009 05:55 PM
      Thanks rdean for the two working injectors. I am gonna start removing the cradle tomorrow morning before I go to work at 2pm

fierocarparts (doyouneedparts@yahoo.com) MSG #257, 12-09-2009 07:38 AM
      Congrats on getting it running! I guess we are going to have to arrange the swap out of parts so you can take care of all the little things. I know you must be feeling good about getting it running. Next is the spinning of wheels! Be sure to get pics of first burn out!



josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #258, 12-10-2009 01:52 PM
      I ordered the gasket set for the timing cover and waterpump inlet. Also ordered the 1 1/4" coolant filler neck from Jegs E Bay site. I took the new waterpump inlet to the welding shop to have the heater hose barb removed and welded up.

29* this morning at 630am here. I did nothing in the garage. Gotta go to work now.


Frizlefrak (dcarson@elp.rr.com) MSG #259, 12-10-2009 06:03 PM
      Great to see the progress! You're gonna love it when it's done. I took my 4.9 out for a little 100 mile Christmas shopping excursion today and had a ball.

Keep up the good work and keep us posted.


josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #260, 12-11-2009 12:23 PM
      Picked up my water inlet housing at the welding shosp, and the gasket set for installing these. My coolant inline filler is gonna be here Monday. I am off tomorrow and plan on finishing the cradle drop so I can get started on the install of the new parts.

josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #261, 12-12-2009 03:17 PM
      Its down and out for finishing up of things that need to finished out of the body.



I will start on the water pump inlet tomorrow after work. It' supposed to be in the 70's here tomorrow so I should be able to be a lot done before it gets dark the next few days.

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 12-12-2009).]

josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #262, 12-14-2009 07:49 PM
      I received my 'Formula' decals for my doors, and my coolant filler on then UPS truck today.

Weather has been nasty here, no work done. 45 dew point and temperature, so fog is the word for two days now.


josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #263, 12-18-2009 05:12 PM
      Cought this guy here in my garage today:

and here he is with a BFH:


I do 'Santa' here for Christmas parties and such for the children. I never accept money, its just for grins. Great fun to see them all smile.

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 12-18-2009).]

josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #264, 12-23-2009 09:01 PM
      Just a test to see if my new hard drive is doing all it is supposed to do:


josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #265, 01-02-2010 03:35 PM
      Removed the water pump,balancer and the timing cover today so I can install the new water pump inlet housing. I'll post some photos later tonight. Wasn't to bad at all. I had to find a small balancer remover as mine was to large to work. My block still had pretty green anti freeze in it.

There are 4 or 5 different size fasteners that hold this all togeather. I took a photo of the way it is so I could get it all back togeather the way it was:

Left side

Right side

Timing Cover removed

Water pump side of the timing cover

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 01-02-2010).]

arte444 (kakagiraffe@gmail.com) MSG #266, 01-03-2010 10:35 AM
      I'd spend the money and get the lifetime warranty water pump, as you can see its not that fun to do. Also using some brush on gasket sealer helps so the water pump doesnt leak. This keeps the gasket in place better too.



josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #267, 01-03-2010 10:48 AM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by arte444:

I'd spend the money and get the lifetime warranty water pump, as you can see its not that fun to do. Also using some brush on gasket sealer helps so the water pump doesnt leak. This keeps the gasket in place better too.



Whats the best way to do this? Timing cover on the engine first, then the water pump, and lastly the inlet housing. Or inlet and waterpump on the timing cover , then all of that on the engine?


Dan_Seattle (dan_michelle@verizon.net) MSG #268, 01-03-2010 12:00 PM
      That's good progress Josef. I did all the same with mine while the engine was out. I would recomend the new lifetime water pump as well. It's really nice to see the whole front of the engine look new. Also did the oil pan gasket, front and rear main seals and anything else I could buy a new seal for.

josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #269, 01-04-2010 12:05 PM
      I went and picked up my new water pump this morning NAPA lifetime warranty. $58.00 more in the 'Kitty'. Its 32* in my garage right now. I have no heater so I am gonna stay inside for the next few days. We are gonna have a cold snap here for the next 6 days. Lows in the low 20's with wind chill factor of 13* for two nights. Might not get anything done here this week.

arte444 (kakagiraffe@gmail.com) MSG #270, 01-04-2010 01:54 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by josef644:


Whats the best way to do this? Timing cover on the engine first, then the water pump, and lastly the inlet housing. Or inlet and waterpump on the timing cover , then all of that on the engine?



I don't really remember what order they go on. I've always done the waterpump last. I believe there is only one way to do it though


Fieroseverywhere (caalon777@hotmail.com) MSG #271, 01-04-2010 02:25 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by josef644:


Whats the best way to do this? Timing cover on the engine first, then the water pump, and lastly the inlet housing. Or inlet and waterpump on the timing cover , then all of that on the engine?


I put them on the car as a complete unit. Tightening all bolts that don't go into the block. 10mm ones only get 5 ft/lbs (this is very important!!!). Everything that goes into the block gets 29 ft/lbs. Allen heads go under the waterpump pully. Use silicone or equivelant on both sides of all three gaskets. While you have it out make sure none the studs in the timing cover have pulled out. The timing cover should be completely flat everywhere, including where the studs go through. If they were ever over-tightened it will need straightening.

Trust me on this you don't want to have to do it again... especially in the car. Over-do it the first time and you should be safe.


josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #272, 01-04-2010 03:40 PM
      I am guessing that the water pump inlet housing bolts cut their own threads? My inlet housing has no threaded holes

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 01-04-2010).]

Rick Morehouse (fieros4u@sccoast.net) MSG #273, 01-04-2010 10:17 PM
      Read the whole thread-super work by everyone-was not aware of so many fieros getting a new lease on life. Because I'm not too well
versed in auto electronics, I went the easy way & bought Ed Parks complete 4.9 install kit. I've not done it yet, too many other things
get ahead of the swap. Have one?? I plan to use an 88 rear set up in an 86 , & Mr. Parks had mentioned that the 88 cradle has/had? a weak place--not seen this issue addressed here. NOT saying it does-just wondering if any of you folks are aware or fixed it??

Played w/# just for fun: 92 eldo, 4.9(300 cubes), 200 h.p., 275 lb/ft of torque, weight-3,604 lbs
ea. h.p. carries 18.02 lbs., ea. lb/ft of torque carries 13.01 lbs. ea., 100 h.p. makes 137.5 lb/ft of torque.

same h.p. & torque values in a fiero(I used 2450 lbs); ea. h.p. carries 12.25 lbs., ea. lb/ft of torque carries 8.9 lbs.
It seems ea.h.p. carries 3/4 of a lb. "less" weight & ea. lb/ft of torque carries 5.75 lbs of "less" weight in a fiero compared to a 92 eldo. No wonder our little cars light up when fired up!!

Seems weird; a 1972 eldo w/500 c.i., 400 h.p., 550 lb/ft of torque, weighting 4, 682 lbs & ea. h.p. carried 11.705 lbs & ea. lb/ft of torque carried 8.5 lbs. and it still took 100 h.p. to make the same 137.5 lb/ft of torque. One element not figured in is the RPM's @
which all of these figures accured. Again--super work by all--Rick


josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #274, 01-04-2010 11:16 PM
      The rear section where it meets the driver side welds break and need reinforcement welding. It is addressed somewhere here. I even asked this question in Tech once because I had forgotten where it tended to break loose.

Fieroseverywhere (caalon777@hotmail.com) MSG #275, 01-05-2010 09:37 AM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by josef644:

I am guessing that the water pump inlet housing bolts cut their own threads? My inlet housing has no threaded holes



Yes.


josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #276, 01-05-2010 08:02 PM
      Worked on exhaust today some. I have the first 90* bend made and ready to put on. This is the one that comes out of the rear manifold. I am gonna do mine sorta like this one below:

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 01-05-2010).]

josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #277, 01-07-2010 03:21 PM
      Got into it with NAPA today. The timing cover gasket set says on the box it includes the crankshaft seal, but it wasn't in the box. Their website showes it in the image, but it isn't listed in 'THEIR' included list. It says on the box non returnable after opening. You don't know its missing until you open it. Then it's to late. $8.00 more in the kitty on the first page

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 01-07-2010).]

josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #278, 01-11-2010 07:11 PM
      Worked on the water pump/timing cover plate today cleaning it up and installing the new crankshaft seal. Cleanded all of the bolts up and have them ready to go back togeather

Ran across this bolt while cleaning and I am not sure there is a specific hole for this shorter one of the two.


It got up to 47 here today. Was a real nice day.


Formula350 (greg@454ho.com) MSG #279, 01-11-2010 10:11 PM
      Really nice work you're doing here Josef. I am at about the same stage with my SBC swap. I had my engine running in the car a couple weeks ago, but could not get the clutch to operate. So I've pulled everything out to fix that issue, plus all the little cleanup stuff while it's out. I hope to get mine back into the car before the weekend.

 
quote
Originally posted by josef644:

The rear section where it meets the driver side welds break and need reinforcement welding. It is addressed somewhere here. I even asked this question in Tech once because I had forgotten where it tended to break loose.


I found your cradle thread here - http://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum2/HTML/104429.html

Can anyone shed more light on this cradle issue? I would like to take care of mine while I have it out.

[This message has been edited by Formula350 (edited 01-11-2010).]

Fieroseverywhere (caalon777@hotmail.com) MSG #280, 01-12-2010 11:43 AM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by josef644:

Ran across this bolt while cleaning and I am not sure there is a specific hole for this shorter one of the two.


Doesn't look like an original bolt to me. They should all be the same. I've got extras if you need some.


josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #281, 01-12-2010 01:03 PM
      Double post

Oh, and I own page 8

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 01-12-2010).]

josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #282, 01-12-2010 01:20 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by Fieroseverywhere:


Doesn't look like an original bolt to me. They should all be the same. I've got extras if you need some.


I located a spare in my bolt box, but thanks.

I painted the water pump and it's pulley this morning after looking for a new bolt. I want to add two coats of clear on top of the silver and let it dry good before install this afternoon.




I laid the gaskets out so they can flatten out. The timing cover plate to block gasket looks like it will go on either way, but try it both ways before you do the install as one way is incorrect, and will cause a big time oil leak. Look where the squiggly line is on the right side. The gasket is curved there, and straight on the opposite side. I marked the gasket 'block' on the surface that meets the block. Once I get this gasket on the engine I will add some RTV. I want to get this all installed and tightened down good before the RTV starts to set up.

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 01-12-2010).]

Fieroseverywhere (caalon777@hotmail.com) MSG #283, 01-12-2010 01:53 PM
      Put an extra bead on RTV on the bottom part of the timing cover where the oil pan bolts on. There tends to be some oil seepage that comes from that area. According to the FSM you use a 1/4" bead.

josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #284, 01-12-2010 02:22 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by Fieroseverywhere:

Put an extra bead on RTV on the bottom part of the timing cover where the oil pan bolts on. There tends to be some oil seepage that comes from that area. According to the FSM you use a 1/4" bead.


Yeah I know. There was a set of instructions in the gasket set box specific to a 4.9. But thanks anyways
Joe

Edited to add:
Here it is all put together and ready to go back on the engine. All 10mm headed fasteners torqued to 62 inch lbs.

I started the fasteners in the water pump inlet as the bolts create the threads in all seven holes. I then removed the bolts. Then I installed the water pump and it's gasket. Lastly the water pump inlet and gasket on the back side of the timing cover.

This way I only had to deal with one gasket at a time instead of three items, two gaskets and 14 fasteners all at the same time.



The vice grip holder is holding the water pump against the timing cover until the sealer dries

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 01-12-2010).]

Rick Morehouse (fieros4u@sccoast.net) MSG #285, 01-12-2010 08:59 PM
      Thanks for info on the K-frame weak area-checked out mine & I see where the passenger side maybe could stand a little extra weld
also, which I'll do-just for peace of mind?!? Question: Is the F-40 tranny a 6 speed automatic that is also manually shifted?? Our 08
Torrent GXP has a 6 spd like this. THANKS


josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #286, 01-12-2010 10:11 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by Rick Morehouse:

Thanks for info on the K-frame weak area-checked out mine & I see where the passenger side maybe could stand a little extra weld
also, which I'll do-just for peace of mind?!? Question: Is the F-40 tranny a 6 speed automatic that is also manually shifted?? Our 08
Torrent GXP has a 6 spd like this. THANKS


I don't know anything about the F-40 transmission. Sorry. Maybe someone else can tell you the answer.

Joe


Fieroseverywhere (caalon777@hotmail.com) MSG #287, 01-13-2010 09:31 AM
      The F40 is a 6 speed manual trans. The auto your referring to is a completely different trans. I know very little about auto's so I can't really elaborate.

Looking good Joe! Thanks for the concentration test! Your absolutely right... I couldn't concentrate at all!

[This message has been edited by Fieroseverywhere (edited 01-13-2010).]

josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #288, 01-13-2010 09:43 AM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by Fieroseverywhere:

Thanks for the concentration test! Your absolutely right... I couldn't concentrate at all!



OOps. I must have checked your name by accident. I am thinking of retaking the test a few times today!!!!!!!!! Maybe 30 times should work.

Joe


josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #289, 01-13-2010 04:02 PM
      I installed the timing cover and water pump back on the engine today. Everything torqued to specs


I am going to have to get a big bolt and nut to run this balancer back in the crankshaft. It is not long enough to reach threads with the washer behind the bolt head. I don't have any big enough in my bolts and nuts box

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 01-13-2010).]

Fieroseverywhere (caalon777@hotmail.com) MSG #290, 01-14-2010 09:56 AM
      I usually just toss a small wood block on there and tap with a hammer. Rubber mallet works also. Its a tight fit but it'll move.

Hmm. When I was finally able to focus long enough to follow the ball I found the test to be accurate (read covered bottom half of test with hand ). So all those times I got it wrong had to be from lack of concentration. Good show!


josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #291, 01-14-2010 10:10 AM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by Fieroseverywhere:

I usually just toss a small wood block on there and tap with a hammer. Rubber mallet works also. Its a tight fit but it'll move.



I'll give that a try. Do you use the block to move it all the way, or just far enough to engage the crank bolt?


Formula350 (greg@454ho.com) MSG #292, 01-14-2010 07:55 PM
      You can borrow a real HB installer from Autozone of O'Reilly. You can use the big hammer approach, but you risk screwing up the thrust bearing in the engine... does a 4.9 even have a thrust bearing??? I would not recommend using the crank snout bolt to pull it on either. Too easy to strip the threads.

Rickady88GT (rjkmfam@sbcglobal.net) MSG #293, 01-14-2010 09:53 PM
      I wonder if any of the bolts go thru to the water jacket? When I changed the pump on this 4.9 the bolts all had sealant on them?



30+mpg (wshaw@par1.net) MSG #294, 01-15-2010 03:25 AM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by josef644:...
Timing Cover removed

...


What determines if the timing chain needs replaced?



Rick Morehouse (fieros4u@sccoast.net) MSG #295, 01-15-2010 08:25 AM
      ANY slack in the chain, @/or check the teeth on gears for wear-the amount of chain slack will sorta match the amount of gear wear. If
the motor ran before a tear down-did it crank hard, run rough, not start or back fire? lots of miles could be an indicator also.


josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #296, 01-15-2010 10:11 AM
      No she purrred like a happy kitten.

Fieroseverywhere (caalon777@hotmail.com) MSG #297, 01-15-2010 10:31 AM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by josef644:


I'll give that a try. Do you use the block to move it all the way, or just far enough to engage the crank bolt?


Just enough to get the bolt started a couple threads is fine. The more the better though. The crank and bolt are hardened but the bolt "could" still be stripped. I use an impact gun after that. I've never had a problem and I've removed and installed this pully 6 times on my engine.

[This message has been edited by Fieroseverywhere (edited 01-15-2010).]

Fieroseverywhere (caalon777@hotmail.com) MSG #298, 01-15-2010 10:43 AM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by Formula350:

You can borrow a real HB installer from Autozone of O'Reilly. You can use the big hammer approach, but you risk screwing up the thrust bearing in the engine... does a 4.9 even have a thrust bearing??? I would not recommend using the crank snout bolt to pull it on either. Too easy to strip the threads.


Yes, it has a thrust bearing. No you do not need a BFH to do it. A smaller hammer works just fine. Its more the vibration that moves it then the force of a big blow. The wood block spreads out the force and keeps the pully perpendicular to the crank which aids it going on. The thrust bearings purpose is to absorb the movement of the crank. The force of the hammer is less then what the crank sees during normal use.


Fieroseverywhere (caalon777@hotmail.com) MSG #299, 01-15-2010 10:51 AM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by Rickady88GT:

I wonder if any of the bolts go thru to the water jacket? When I changed the pump on this 4.9 the bolts all had sealant on them?




No, they don't. The sealant was probably just there from someone going overboard puting it on. The pump itself has only 4 bolts that even go into the block. All the others just secure it to the timing cover or screw into the inlet on the backside.

EDIT: This pic pretty much summs it up...

[This message has been edited by Fieroseverywhere (edited 01-15-2010).]

josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #300, 01-15-2010 10:58 AM
      Vibrations eh. I guess I can use the air chisel to vibrate it back on the crankshaft. I'll try this today. Might just be an ideal way to get these back on.

The Haynes book I have says on 91's up to just use the crank bolt to pull it back on the crankshaft nose. I would think after it was on enough to engage some threads it will be fine.

I was a little concerned about about hammering against the thrust washer, but I had forgotten all about the " hits" it is taking while going down the road at 70 MPH


josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #301, 01-15-2010 11:03 AM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by Rickady88GT:

I wonder if any of the bolts go thru to the water jacket? When I changed the pump on this 4.9 the bolts all had sealant on them?







Rick I read the instruction on installing the water pump at AllDta.com, and from my Haynes. Hayne says "use sealant on the bolts immediatly next to the water passages on the block"

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 01-15-2010).]

Formula350 (greg@454ho.com) MSG #302, 01-15-2010 01:14 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by Fieroseverywhere:


Yes, it has a thrust bearing. No you do not need a BFH to do it. A smaller hammer works just fine. Its more the vibration that moves it then the force of a big blow. The wood block spreads out the force and keeps the pully perpendicular to the crank which aids it going on. The thrust bearings purpose is to absorb the movement of the crank. The force of the hammer is less then what the crank sees during normal use.


I did not say it couldn't be done successfully with a hammer or the snout screw, I was mearly pointing out the potential risks of each method. There are better ways to do this job with the right tools. And the right tool is available for loan at most major auto parts stores, so it costs nothing more than a trip down there to pick it up.

And to be absolutely clear of the thrust bearing purpose... yes it does control thrust movement of the crank. But like all the sleeve bearings in the engine, it is not designed to operate when there is no oil pressure. It is the presurized oil film between the bearing surfaces that keeps the parts from physically touching. There are precise tolerences in the bearing clearance that must be adhered to. If you deform or flatten the soft metal bearing even a couple thousanths of an inch when you beat on the HB with a hammer, then you may no longer be in tolerence. Yes the engine may run just fine, but longevity may be compromised.



josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #303, 01-15-2010 03:01 PM
      It was only 45* in the garage. I left the HB in the oven at 145* for an hour. I used a 2X4 and a claw hammer. It went on real easy. I didn't have to hit it real hard at all. Supprised the ship out of me.

Next


Fieroseverywhere (caalon777@hotmail.com) MSG #304, 01-15-2010 04:26 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by Formula350:


There are better ways to do this job with the right tools.


Agreed. There are some jobs that are just not worth the time involved in finding/renting/borring the tools. IMO this happens to be one of them. Thats all I was saying.

 
quote
Originally posted by josef644:

It was only 45* in the garage. I left the HB in the oven at 145* for an hour. I used a 2X4 and a claw hammer. It went on real easy. I didn't have to hit it real hard at all. Supprised the ship out of me.

Next


I've never heated one before. Bet that worked really well. One step closer Joe...


josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #305, 01-15-2010 05:49 PM
      You know how hard it is to get a oil pick up tube started into an oil pump? I did this the same way. I made a black marker mark on the pipe end and the right spot on the oil pump. The oil pump in the oven for an hour at 180*. I left the pick up pipe in the freezer over night. Next morning I had the son-in-law hold the oil pump steady and line up the black marks. I steaked the pipe in with two hits of the hammer.

Make sure your wife is not home. When she comes home and asks "whats that smell" ya gotta say "I don't smell anything". Leave the room before she gets demanding.

Joe

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 01-15-2010).]

josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #306, 01-25-2010 03:50 PM
      I installed the battery support and the black piece of metal that is underneath, and behind it today. These are two items much easier to install with the engine out of the bay:

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 01-25-2010).]

josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #307, 01-28-2010 12:22 PM
      Cut out the trunk this am:


I will be following this system someone here used



josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #308, 02-12-2010 10:39 AM
      Ordered $112.00 worth of mandrel bent 2.25" 3 X 90* and one 180* pipe+ 3 foot of straight. Price includes shippping.

Ordered 2 exhaust hangers $12.00 delivered from Summitt Racing

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 02-12-2010).]

katatak MSG #309, 02-12-2010 04:30 PM
      Uh....patiently waiting for some progress....... Where did you order the pipe from? I'm going to have to start thinking about exhaust for the XTC swap in a few weeks.

Pat


josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #310, 02-13-2010 12:35 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by katatak:

Uh....patiently waiting for some progress....... Where did you order the pipe from? I'm going to have to start thinking about exhaust for the XTC swap in a few weeks.

Pat


I found them here:
http://www.racepartsolution.../products.asp?cat=47

Just Google mandrel bent pipes. There were a jillion hits


josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #311, 02-14-2010 06:56 PM
      Ordered two new front cradle bolts, and a battery tray from The Fiero store $50.00 shipped.

Purchased a ta GT seat skin for oner seat upright, about $50.00 shipped


josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #312, 02-19-2010 10:39 AM
      I got my mandrel bends, seat skin, cradle bolts, battery tray and my exhaust hangers in the mail and on the UPS truck yesterday.

Happy days are here again. I should be able to start getting some things done on this again. Money has been tight here, as it is at your homes too I would imagine. Money has bit us all on the butt

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 02-19-2010).]

josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #313, 02-28-2010 08:15 PM
      Anybody have the measurement between these two points? I tried to put a 79.5" belt from AutoZone on today. It was to small. I will replace it with a 80.2" belt tomorrow and see what happens with it. AutoZone offers a 79.8" belt also


I built my bracket leg just like this one OldBob built and used:


I was able to get some little things done in the garage today. I am debating on wheather or not to get some Dynamat to do the firewall with. Thats expensive stuff!!!!!

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 02-28-2010).]

josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #314, 03-01-2010 09:00 PM
      Ordered the 80 1/8" belt today. It'll be here at 7am tomorrow. Took the 79 1/2" belt back to A Zone

josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #315, 03-02-2010 04:43 PM
      80 1/8" belt was to large. I exchanged it for a 798K6 from AutoZone. This belt is between 79 1/2" and 80 1/8", or the neighborhood of 79 3/4". It is the perfect size.

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 03-02-2010).]

arte444 (kakagiraffe@gmail.com) MSG #316, 03-02-2010 05:59 PM
      I went to both autozone and advance auto parts to find the right size belt. Each store carried different sizes.

josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #317, 03-02-2010 06:42 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by arte444:

I went to both autozone and advance auto parts to find the right size belt. Each store carried different sizes.


I was using NAPA and A Zone. The belts run around $16.99 at A Zone, They were much more expensive at NAPA. I had ordered the 80 1/8" form NAPA, when I picked it up this afternoon they wanted $48.00 fo it. I think the gal ringing me up did something wrong. I told her no thanks, and drove 15 miles' to A Zoneand ended up using the 798K6 belt.

I left the tenisioner brace with my welder friend so he can weld it up tomorrow. After I paint it and install it, I'll pake a picture of it installed and give the measurement so it becomes easier to duplicate.

Joe Crawford


katatak MSG #318, 03-03-2010 12:27 AM
      Hey Joe,

Perfect timing on the belt fitment. I'll be working on the belt and pulley's this weekend. Thanks for sharing the part numbers.

Pat



jmbishop (jmbishop05@aol.com) MSG #319, 03-03-2010 12:32 AM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by josef644:

I was able to get some little things done in the garage today. I am debating on wheather or not to get some Dynamat to do the firewall with. Thats expensive stuff!!!!!



You can do it with stuff that's almost identical for under $30


josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #320, 03-04-2010 04:18 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by josef644:

Anybody have the measurement between these two points? I tried to put a 79.5" belt from AutoZone on today. It was to small. I will replace it with a 80.2" belt tomorrow and see what happens with it. AutoZone offers a 79.8" belt also


I built my bracket leg just like this one OldBob built and used:


I was able to get some little things done in the garage today. I am debating on whether or not to get some Dynamat to do the firewall with. Thats expensive stuff!!!!!



Pat,
On the home made bracket the longer leg was 4 1/2" long X 1 1'2" wide, the short piece was 2 1/2 long X 1 1/2" wide. Both pieces were 3/16" thick.
The measurement from the tenisoner to the water pump bolt was 3 1/2". There was an upright metal bracket that goes between the intake and the altenator mount. I kept it in the mix. I figured if it wasn't needed, GM would not have put it there in the first place.

My Homemade bracket , copied from OldBob:

I used a brass bushing that I had modified to 15/16" and put between the bracket and the intake manifold:

Shot from underneath

Everything tightened down and the belt mounted


EDITED TO ADD:
Some one was asking about how to mount the idler pulley for the belt. I sent him these instructions on how I did this, and have cut and pasted it here from his thread.
I removed the mount for the idler pulley from the Cadillac belt tensioner with a hack saw.
The stub is the correct dimension for the new idler pulley mounting hole.
I drilled out the stub so a 10mm bolt would go threw the center.

This was just short of 1/2". Some one here posted the space behind the pulley was about 1/2". Measuring the base of the stub, I added two flat washers behind it to make up 1/2".


This bolt threads into the upright brace behind the water pump housing etc, while the lower end of the brace mounted to the AC compressor. Notice that I had to remove a bit off of one water pump bolt

Jam nut on the back so the bolt doesn't back out and get loose


I had noticed that the off set wasn't the same on both sides of the pulley, one way was just a bit different. You might need to try both ways to see which way is best for your set up.

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 03-13-2010).]

Fieroseverywhere (caalon777@hotmail.com) MSG #321, 03-04-2010 05:24 PM
      Thats very similar concept to my bracket. The difference being I used a single piece of steel coutoured to fit and added a spacer. The right bolt then comes in from the back side of the tensioner into the hole in the bracket which is tapped.

I like this type of design. Takes up little space and works very well.

Have you put a square on the backside of the tensioner yet to check allignment with the alternator? Just curious.

[This message has been edited by Fieroseverywhere (edited 03-04-2010).]

josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #322, 03-04-2010 05:50 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by Fieroseverywhere:

Have you put a square on the backside of the tensioner yet to check allignment with the alternator? Just curious.


No I am not sure I know what you mean. Can you pake us a picture and post it for us all?



Fieroseverywhere (caalon777@hotmail.com) MSG #323, 03-05-2010 11:37 PM
      Sure. Got home late tonight, its too dark, and I'm too tired to pull the fiero in tonight. It was a 15 hour day. I'll get one tomorrow morning for you. Basically just put a square between the backside of the tensioner and the alternator bracket. Probably no need but I'm overly cautious because I HATE belt squeal. I'll post in the morning.

EDIT: Almost forgot. Hehe Albino seahorses....
You should have 5 nuns. Later Joe.

[This message has been edited by Fieroseverywhere (edited 03-05-2010).]

josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #324, 03-06-2010 01:42 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by Fieroseverywhere:

Hehe Albino seahorses....
You should have 5 nuns. Later Joe.



Got um

Joe


josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #325, 03-06-2010 10:48 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by Fieroseverywhere:

Sure. Got home late tonight, its too dark, and I'm too tired to pull the fiero in tonight. It was a 15 hour day. I'll get one tomorrow morning for you. Basically just put a square between the backside of the tensioner and the alternator bracket. Probably no need but I'm overly cautious because I HATE belt squeal. I'll post in the morning.

EDIT: Almost forgot. Hehe Albino seahorses....
You should have 5 nuns. Later Joe.



Picture, Picture?


katatak MSG #326, 03-07-2010 12:20 AM
      Thanks Joe for the pics and measurements - I will be building a bracket in the AM. Got the old duke out today so I'm gearing up for stuffin the 4.9 in next weekend.

Pat


Fieroseverywhere (caalon777@hotmail.com) MSG #327, 03-07-2010 08:40 PM
      Oops. Sorry for yet another delay Joe.

My fiance decided she needed to kidnap me yesterday morning. I tried to resist but she forced me to take her on a long drive in the 4.9 through the twisties. Keeping with my luck with this car the clutch master failed on the way back. We managed to make it back and I removed the old master and took it back to Autozone for a replacement. Anyways, here is the pic. Sorry its blurry, the camera died after I got this pic before I could get a better one...



You get the idea...


josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #328, 03-12-2010 12:06 PM
      Ordered a new adjustable lateral link from Rockauto for a dog bone brace between the head and the cradle. Picture lifted from 'fieroguru'. 1990 Nissan Maxima 3.0


Removed the two nasty gray sun visors for recovering with tan fabric. Neighbors brother in Houston is gonna do them for $25.00, my fabric. I had purchased enough to do the headboard and the visors.

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 03-12-2010).]

josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #329, 03-15-2010 02:26 PM
      Built and installed the heat shield that will be between the water pump inlet, AC hoses and the exhaust manifold. I built it from cereal box cardboard first
,
then drew it on metal before I cut it out.

Cleaned it up and sprayed engine enamel on the new heat shield, mounted it on the engine:


Katerak sent me three more of the long studded valve cover bolts. These cost over $17.00 a piece at the GM deallership down the road. Painted them silver and put them on the engine. I had a few extra wire separators and used them to tidy up my plug wires. Now both sides of the engine look like this:


Fieroseverywhere (caalon777@hotmail.com) MSG #330, 03-15-2010 03:00 PM
      mmmm. Honey Nut Cheerios.

josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #331, 03-15-2010 05:32 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by Fieroseverywhere:

mmmm. Honey Nut Cheerios.


Wife, eveeeery day of the week. I'm a B & E man myself.

I have got a lot of little time consuming things done these last two beautiful Texas spring days.

Painted Ashtray doors and windshield wiper arms.

Moved trunk torsion spring back one hole

Adjusted exhaust crossover pipe back to where it was supposed to be

Replaced the small section of 3/4" heater return line underneath the car that was mushy.

Added horn button spring thingie so the horn will work.

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 03-15-2010).]

josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #332, 03-19-2010 05:25 PM
      I have been attempting to get the shifter to move the transmission shift arm and get it to where the two align up correctly. When Neutral and Overdrive are correct, I can't get the shifter in park. So my shifter plate or the transmission shifter arm is not the correct size. I am not sure what is the problem. It looks like I might be able to file the 'Gate" where the shifter can lock into Park. I figure if I have Park, Reverse, neutral and Overdrive I can be happy.

On a sad note I had purchased a 4T60 and 4T60E transmission shifter bracket and arm from FieroAddiction in February. Today is March 19th. This "Sucks" big time. Ain't heard a peep from Rockcrawl. I guess I"ll have to try to recover from PayPal. I am gonna wait exactly 30 days before I request a refund from them. If he isn't gonna ship things he has for sale, he shouldn't sell them, I paifd extra for two day shipping.

I got my 1990 Nissan Maxima lateral link in the mail yesterday from RockAuto.Com. I will have it on the engine, and mounted to the cradle pretty quick. I had a friend make me a bushing on his lathe to adapt the 14mm hole to the 10mm bolt that threads into the head. I'll get a photo posted up after I get it all mounted and welded onto the cradle.

Another beautiful day here in Texas

Joe

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 03-19-2010).]

katatak MSG #333, 03-19-2010 08:17 PM
      Every little thing you get done adds up Joe. We sat down the other day and made a "punch" list of what we had left to do. It looks overwhelming but in the last few days we have whittled it down. Still a lot to do though. Looking good.

Pat



josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #334, 03-22-2010 06:28 PM
      I have made a punch out list of things to do before I put the cradle and the engine back in the car. I don't want to put it back in and discover I should have done something before hand. I am off work Wednesday, Thursday and Friday, so I am looking to get a few things done then.

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 03-22-2010).]

katatak MSG #335, 03-22-2010 08:01 PM
      Everytime I think I'm ready for the next step, I find something that needs to be done. I can't do anything without a list anymore. If I had all the parts I needed and about 7 days, I think I could finish this project of mine.

Pat



josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #336, 03-24-2010 02:57 PM
      Another beautiful Texas day here. Worked out in the garage on several projects today. There are many little thing that I needed to do such as replacing the black plastic harness covering on a few places and soldering wires that were patched with butt crimp connectors. The 4 wires that went to the deck lid release solenoid were buggered up. I used some of the correct colored wire to make these repairs. I need to rearrange the brake booster vacuum line and its hardware so the exhaust manifold of the 4.9 doesn't roast it.

I played with the shift cable bracket and the cables today some more. That stuff is screwed up big time. The transmission arm moves so much between "park' and 'neutral', and the shifter moves an unequal amount. Still no word from FieroAddiction about the bracket and arm I purchased form him with two day shipping in February. I saw where West Coast Fiero sells a bracket that converts the thing so the shifter arm isn't underneath the exhaust pipe. $120.00, a little bit high, but maybe it will be necessaary to get this thing going back in the car.

I want to have the body ready for the re install of the engine and cradle by the end of the day tomorrow.

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 03-24-2010).]

josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #337, 03-25-2010 09:49 PM
      Worked on the rear cradle bolt hole that the nut was mission from today. I got a new nut welded on a piece of metal so I can thread the cradle bolt into the frame now. I will paint the rear firewall with some semi gloss black tomorrow. The car is ready for the engine and cradle afterwords.

Anybody have any suggestions for insulating the firewall from the engine heat? I am gonna put the 'Peal & Stick' from Lowe's on the inside of the firewall.


Fieroseverywhere (caalon777@hotmail.com) MSG #338, 03-26-2010 09:51 AM
      Depends entirely on what you want to spend and what you are looking to do. Sound deadening, heat control, combination of both, paint on, stick on, engine bay only, interior also.

For the enginebay firewall I've had very good luck with this type of stuff...
http://www.jcwhitney.com/jc...ge/G_12966G_CL_1.jpg
1/2" Acoustical Foam. Blocks sound and heat quite well. Peal and stick install, relatively cheap, and one 32x54 sheet will do the entire firewall. Also gives the engine bay a nice clean look...


For the cabin I used Dynomat Xtreme. The bulk pack (part # 10455) will do almost the entire floorpan from rear window to pedals. You need approx 40sqft not counting the doors, roof, and under the dash. Its reasonably priced when you do NOT order factory direct or from Summitracing.com.
http://www.google.com/produ...0455&hl=en&scoring=p

Lots of other choices out there also. These worked well for me.

EDIT: Almost forgot. If your in need of a firewall pattern they can be found here...
http://www.fierosails.com/heatshield.html
Its not necissary but does make things a bit easier. I only used it the first time. I just cut as I go now.

For cleanup prior to useing grab yourself a couple cans of Brake Parts Cleaner. Use that and a roll of papertowels. Leaves no residue and wont touch the firewall paint. Quick, efficient, and cheap.

[This message has been edited by Fieroseverywhere (edited 03-26-2010).]

josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #339, 03-26-2010 04:17 PM
      I went to the J C Whitney site to get some of this, it said:

"Note: Due to temperature variations this product is not to be used in the engine compartment…product will melt at 200°."

To bad, as this stuff looked good!


Fieroseverywhere (caalon777@hotmail.com) MSG #340, 03-28-2010 01:13 PM
      I didn't buy from Jcwhitney. It was just the best pic I could find at that time and a good example of what I'm using.

I got mine from westcoastfiero.com...
http://www.westcoastfiero.c...specialty_items.html
I wouldn't recommend getting it from them though. Once I got it I realized it was identical to what you can find for less then 50 delivered. I got the uncut stuff.

I've never had any heat related issued with it. I also retained the factory heat shield that goes on the firewall. This probably helps. I had a fuel pump connector melt at one point so I know it gets hot there. The insulation was un-effected even through several 2 hour drives in 100+ degree weather. Its funny how some places will tell you it won't work while others recommend it.


josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #341, 03-28-2010 10:29 PM
      I just ordered some from J C Whitney Co

josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #342, 03-29-2010 02:20 PM
      I added my 'WheelSkin' to the steering wheel today. Came out looking real nice. Has a real soft feel to it:


Ordered the AC hose adapters stuff this morning. $83.00 more in the kitty.
Joe

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 03-29-2010).]

josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #343, 03-29-2010 07:52 PM
      Just a tip for everybody. I purchased two seat mechanism covers from The Fiero Store. They were the defects that needed drilling and spraying tan from the gray, to match my tan interior. I purchased this product at AutoZone:


In the image you can see the old broken cover beside the can. The left end has the spray on it . It appears to be the same exact color as the original was.
The rear label on the can:


And a pic of the cover in the light with no shadow:


Ya can't ask to get a better color match than this.

Joe


josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #344, 03-30-2010 08:25 PM
      One down , one to go:


katatak MSG #345, 03-30-2010 10:47 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by josef644:

Just a tip for everybody. I purchased two seat mechanism covers from The Fiero Store. They were the defects that needed drilling and spraying tan from the gray, to match my tan interior. I purchased this product at AutoZone:


In the image you can see the old broken cover beside the can. The left end has the spray on it . It appears to be the same exact color as the original was.
The rear label on the can:


And a pic of the cover in the light with no shadow:


Ya can't ask to get a better color match than this.

Joe


Hey Joe,

I used that same brand for my dash, door pannels and center console on my V8 Coupe. I liked the way it covered and it looks great once dry. Steering wheel and the seat looks great. Where did you get the steering wheel cover?

Pat


josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #346, 03-31-2010 06:35 AM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by katatak:


Hey Joe,

I used that same brand for my dash, door pannels and center console on my V8 Coupe. I liked the way it covered and it looks great once dry. Steering wheel and the seat looks great. Where did you get the steering wheel cover?

Pat


WheelSkins are all over the place on E Bay. I think I paid $27.?? + shipping. It was real easy to put on the steering wheel. I removed it from the car and did it in the house watching TV


josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #347, 04-02-2010 11:32 PM
      I finished these this afternoon. Wasn't to bad at all. A well designed upholstery kit from Mr Mike:

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 04-02-2010).]

katatak MSG #348, 04-03-2010 12:41 AM
      Looks great Joe. I love those Mr. Mike's!

josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #349, 04-07-2010 05:49 PM
      I got these in the mail yesterday:

They are the items I need to make up the AC hoses for my swap. I order two different hose ends today with a 45* bend in them. As these are mounted on my compressor, the AC hoses will be rubbing up against the end of the starter. If the larger one of the two was on the inside port it would not even work. I think the 45* bend will solve this problem. We'll know soon.

Part #14108A (# 8 fitting to #8 Hose) 1 $3.49 $3.49

Part #15512A (#10 Fitting to #12 Hose) 1 $4.64 $4.64

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 04-07-2010).]

josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #350, 04-07-2010 08:23 PM
      I just got notification from PayPal that my $58.10 payment to FieroAddiction was refunded to me and my claim was closed. I was sorry to hear that, I would have prefered to have had the bracket I purched and never got.
Joe


josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #351, 04-10-2010 03:07 PM
      I was able to get the shifter and the transmission shift am to work together correctly yesterday. Man I was sweating that one. I ordered the firewall pattern from Fiero Sails yesterday. I guess It was a good thig that FieroAddiction feiled to send my purcahsed or I wouldn't know how to do this by myself. I will install the insulation on the firewall, then the engine will be ready to go back in the car.

I assembled the seat bottoms to the backs yesterday. They are ready to go back in the car now.

Later

Joe

Ein Bier Bitte?

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 04-10-2010).]

josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #352, 04-12-2010 08:46 PM
      Made this today.


I was gonna try to get this in the car tomorrow, but alas, the evil gremlins are at my house for several days now. Lawnmower fell off of the trailer today. The chain anchor rusted out during the winter. Mower was in pretty good shape after the fall, until a 18 wheeler kissed the rear end of it. !8 wheeler 1, mower 0. He wasn't even mad. Had a big smile on his face.


josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #353, 04-19-2010 06:03 PM
      I went around all the the edges with aluminum tape to sort of weather proof it. The aluminum tape was $8.00 at Lowe's. I put it in the car this afternoon. I cut it in three pieces. I used the heavy duty adhesive spray to hold it on the metal. Left of center, right of center , and to the left side of the battery support. I don't know if I could have used the spray adhesive and put it in in one piece. Been dreading this big time.


Ein Bier Bitte?

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 04-19-2010).]

josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #354, 04-20-2010 10:35 PM
      AC ompressor clutch electrical connector came in today, along with the two 45* bends hose ends. Nothing done on the Coupe today.

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 04-21-2010).]

katatak MSG #355, 04-21-2010 12:12 AM
      Hey Joe,

Question on the AC block and hose ends. Are you planning on running straight hose from the compressor to the block on the drivers side - not using mufflers on the lines? I need to tackle this in the next week or so.

The firewall insulation looks good. I need to do this too - should be easier now that I have the template! Thanks again for that! I'll send it back by Friday.

Pat


Mickey_Moose (edmontonfieros@shaw.ca) MSG #356, 04-21-2010 10:16 AM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by josef644:

They are the items I need to make up the AC hoses for my swap. I order two different hose ends today with a 45* bend in them. As these are mounted on my compressor, the AC hoses will be rubbing up against the end of the starter. If the larger one of the two was on the inside port it would not even work. I think the 45* bend will solve this problem. We'll know soon.

Part #14108A (# 8 fitting to #8 Hose) 1 $3.49 $3.49

Part #15512A (#10 Fitting to #12 Hose) 1 $4.64 $4.64



Mind if I ask where it was that you got these from?

Thanks


josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #357, 04-21-2010 11:01 AM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by Mickey_Moose:


Mind if I ask where it was that you got these from?

Thanks


I got them from here http://www.acsource.com/

I'll post a picture of them on the compressor later today. I have lots of mowing to do today.

Pat I am not planning on using a muffler. Might have to plan on adding one latere. We'll just have to see how it works without it.

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 04-21-2010).]

katatak MSG #358, 04-21-2010 03:22 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by josef644:


I got them from here http://www.acsource.com/

I'll post a picture of them on the compressor later today. I have lots of mowing to do today.

Pat I am not planning on using a muffler. Might have to plan on adding one latere. We'll just have to see how it works without it.



Very good Joe. I'm plnning to go the same direction.

Pat


josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #359, 04-21-2010 07:44 PM
      Here it is against the compressor. They are both on there, just can't see them both:


An a side by side shot. There is plenty of room away from the starter. The straight ones would put the hoses against it.


From below:


katatak MSG #360, 04-21-2010 10:41 PM
      Very nice Joe. I am following your lead........

Pat



josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #361, 04-25-2010 03:54 PM
      I own page 10!

Jen-U Wine Fierocarparts carpet installed in my coupe today. This is near perfect factory carpet. Steve and I did some swapping of parts yesterday while we were in Dallas for the NTFC monthly meeting, and a Texas Rangers game afterwards.
Drivers side:


Passenger side:



I was also lucky enough to get the tan firewall upholstery piece also. I have to solder the 4 rear speaker wires before I put that piece on the interior firewall. Steve brought me a window motor for my passenger side door.

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 04-25-2010).]

katatak MSG #362, 04-25-2010 07:42 PM
      And here I thought you were going to Dallas for business..... You just went to play! Carpet looks great Joe.

Pat


josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #363, 04-25-2010 08:59 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by katatak:

And here I thought you were going to Dallas for business..... You just went to play! Carpet looks great Joe.

Pat


We had lunch with the North Texas Fiero Club, and swapped parts with Steve.

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 04-25-2010).]

katatak MSG #364, 04-25-2010 09:11 PM
      Fiero's and Baseball - it don't get any better than that!

josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #365, 04-26-2010 07:11 PM
      Got my FieroAddiction 4T60E shift bracket in the mail for his web store. It is first rate. I now have two working brackets and shift arms. Mine works on the adjustable cable, with the adjustment all the way out. His works with the adjuster all the way in.

I got the 4 rear speaker wires connected this evening, and put the firewall panel back in the car. There hasn't been one in the car since last July. Looks a little different now:


josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #366, 04-26-2010 09:24 PM
      A lady I mow for has had this for a while. She purchased the car and drove it home. Once home she discovered that it overheating. The seller would not return her money. She told me today that if I wanted the car, to just take it home. She was sick of looking at it. 1994 STS with a NorthStar. The car is fine all over except for the overheating V8. I drove it one block to my house, and the pressure was in the coolant tank when I got home.



katatak MSG #367, 04-26-2010 09:48 PM
      That was a score Joe.

Fieroseverywhere (caalon777@hotmail.com) MSG #368, 04-27-2010 09:46 AM
     

You lucky sob!!! Overheating is simple to fix. There are only so many things it could be. You selling or keeping once you fix it? Will the wife even let you sell it?


blakeinspace (blakeinspace@yahoo.com) MSG #369, 04-27-2010 10:02 AM
      I cannot believe you just got a free Caddilac?!
It looks like it has been kept up with real well too.

Glad to have you guys up for lunch... the carpet does look good!


josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #370, 04-27-2010 11:54 AM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by blakeinspace:

I cannot believe you just got a free Caddilac?!
It looks like it has been kept up with real well too.

Glad to have you guys up for lunch... the carpet does look good!


Well, not quite free. I'll mow her lawn for free the rest of this year, in the neighborhood of about $400.00 worth of mowing. It takes me about 20 min to cut and edge her place. Close to free!! This car looks as good up close as it does in the 15 foot pictures.

We enjoyed seeing all of the NTFC gang, and the Rangers game too.

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 04-27-2010).]

josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #371, 04-27-2010 06:14 PM
      I started doing the fabing of the exhaust today: Wooden mock up of the frame rails and rear bumper exhaust area.





katatak MSG #372, 04-27-2010 10:21 PM
      Looking good Joe! You have a PM

Pat


josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #373, 04-28-2010 08:02 PM
      My welder friend is supposed to be here at 9:00am tomorrow. Looks like I will have exhaust system before supper time. My AC compressor head block came today UPS. I had to send the first one back as it had a defect. I am gonna remove the compressor and drain it tomorrow too. Maybe I can get this back in the car this weekend.

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 04-28-2010).]

josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #374, 04-28-2010 09:06 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by Fieroseverywhere:



You lucky sob!!! Overheating is simple to fix. There are only so many things it could be. You selling or keeping once you fix it? Will the wife even let you sell it?


Sorry FEW I didn't see your post.

Ok tell me about simple to fix Northstar overheating. I have heard that there isn't any thing cheap about fixing these. We haven't decided yet. She has been in her Elantra since 2002. She is used to 35-37 MPG. Dis aint even gonna get 30 MPG, its the 300 HP Vin 9.

Joe

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 04-28-2010).]

fierocarparts (doyouneedparts@yahoo.com) MSG #375, 04-28-2010 09:28 PM
      I think that carpet looks better in your car than my F355. Of course, it now has black that I just recently purchased. So how do you spell your last name CrawfordBERG or CrawfordSTEIN?



josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #376, 04-28-2010 10:04 PM
      Steve did ya notice that you can see the floor in my garage now? Spent half a day yesterday cleaning up that un-godly mess. Stine'll do fine

Cathy says bring her yellow Fiero , and get this golden ride outta her driveway. The yella one matches her boat.

Joe

Ein Bier Bitte?

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 04-28-2010).]

Fieroseverywhere (caalon777@hotmail.com) MSG #377, 04-29-2010 09:57 AM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by josef644:


Sorry FEW I didn't see your post.

Ok tell me about simple to fix Northstar overheating. I have heard that there isn't any thing cheap about fixing these. We haven't decided yet. She has been in her Elantra since 2002. She is used to 35-37 MPG. Dis aint even gonna get 30 MPG, its the 300 HP Vin 9.

Joe



I was referring to overheating in general not specifically the Northstar. Getting more specific...

T-stat opening when it should or at all?
Rad cap good? (wouldn't that just beat all )
CTS reading properly?
Radiator flowing properly?
Cooling fan coming on?
Hose restrictions?
Waterpump?

If all this is good and it still overheats then you may have the dreaded Northstar head gasket problem. Those aren't easy or cheap but everything else is. Wasn't trying to offend you Joe. If all works in your favor that car may have just paid for you 4.9 swap.

How does it run? Smooth with some power?

[This message has been edited by Fieroseverywhere (edited 04-29-2010).]

blakeinspace (blakeinspace@yahoo.com) MSG #378, 04-29-2010 11:13 AM
      ^ ^ ^
| | |

I agree with him. Those are the first things I would check. If that car has had Dex-Cool in it since she bought it (and I would lay Vegas odds that it has!)... My suspicion would be a clogged rad. Dex-Cruel tunrs to mud... and makes little orange rocks. Some swear by it... I swear at it... and the class action lawsuits against GM about Dex-Dirt say I am right.

Anyway... if the rad isn't clogged... Dex is notorious for eating intake manifold gaskets... ask anyone that had to pay for a LIM repair on a 3800. Not sure if that problem ever got over into the N* though.

You might also drain a little oil and send it in for analysis... see if there is any antifreeze getting in there. If there is... that will help you know what to do. It only costs about $25... and most places will send you the kit for free. I use blackstone labs.
http://www.blackstone-labs.com/

It would be funny if it was just the dang cap. It is amazing what one that is not holding full pressure will do... it gives annoying and alarming symptoms... and is the easiest of fixes. If it is OEM... it is worth just buying a new one. Stant or Delco will do just fine.

But if you do keep it... Ditch the Dex and go green. (or in my case... yellow. I run Amsoil anti-freeze in all my cars. It looks like lemon-aide and tastes great too! )



josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #379, 04-29-2010 12:37 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by Fieroseverywhere:


I was referring to overheating in general not specifically the Northstar. Getting more specific...

T-stat opening when it should or at all?
Rad cap good? (wouldn't that just beat all )
CTS reading properly?
Radiator flowing properly?
Cooling fan coming on?
Hose restrictions?
Waterpump?

If all this is good and it still overheats then you may have the dreaded Northstar head gasket problem. Those aren't easy or cheap but everything else is. Wasn't trying to offend you Joe. If all works in your favor that car may have just paid for you 4.9 swap.

How does it run? Smooth with some power?



FEW no offence taken. I am gonna get into this Caddie after I get some things on my 4.9 swap finished up. When I removed the filler cap to check the coolant level, there was pressure in the tank. I just drove it one block, so I didn't get to 'fell the power' curve. Engine sounds good, nice and smooth. I haven't driven a Fiero since August last year


josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #380, 04-29-2010 12:38 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by blakeinspace:

^ ^ ^
| | |

I agree with him. Those are the first things I would check. If that car has had Dex-Cool in it since she bought it (and I would lay Vegas odds that it has!)... My suspicion would be a clogged rad. Dex-Cruel tunrs to mud... and makes little orange rocks. Some swear by it... I swear at it... and the class action lawsuits against GM about Dex-Dirt say I am right.

Anyway... if the rad isn't clogged... Dex is notorious for eating intake manifold gaskets... ask anyone that had to pay for a LIM repair on a 3800. Not sure if that problem ever got over into the N* though.

You might also drain a little oil and send it in for analysis... see if there is any antifreeze getting in there. If there is... that will help you know what to do. It only costs about $25... and most places will send you the kit for free. I use blackstone labs.
http://www.blackstone-labs.com/

It would be funny if it was just the dang cap. It is amazing what one that is not holding full pressure will do... it gives annoying and alarming symptoms... and is the easiest of fixes. If it is OEM... it is worth just buying a new one. Stant or Delco will do just fine.

But if you do keep it... Ditch the Dex and go green. (or in my case... yellow. I run Amsoil anti-freeze in all my cars. It looks like lemon-aide and tastes great too! )




I remember your excellent Dex cool rant thread.

Ein Bier Bitte?

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 04-29-2010).]

josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #381, 04-29-2010 05:19 PM
      All of these mandrel bends, hangers, clamps,converter and muffler assembled and welded:




I have about $235.00 in the exhaust system as it sits right now.

I left the tips off so when I have this raised up in the car I can center the tips in the exhaust opening so it looks good. I am pretty happy with the way she has turned out. I'll do some other small stuff tomorrow so I can get it back in the body this weekend.

Joe

Ein Bier Bitte?

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 04-29-2010).]

katatak MSG #382, 04-29-2010 09:40 PM
      Looks great Joe. Hope mine turns out as good! Wish I were closer - I'd come help you stuff it in!

Later

Pat


josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #383, 04-30-2010 10:43 PM
      Today I removed the dash pod and installed the one I have with the modified tach . While it was out of the car I installed a new headlight dimming switch and a set of Rodney's 'brighter' dash bulbs. The old dimmer had a on off switch installed into its wiring bypassing the column mounted switch. I had an old one in my shop. I have to do brakes on the wifes Elantra tomrrow. So maybe I can get some work done on the 88 Sunday.

josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #384, 05-01-2010 05:35 PM
      Did the front brakes on the Elantra today, and did 'Honey Do's" till 3pm. Played with the STS. Filled it with water. Started it up and ended up adding around a full gallon of water. It is 1/2 mile around my block. I drove this half mile and it had overheated as I pulled in my drive way. Upper hose is HOT, pressure was on the filler tank cap, top of the radiator was hot, couldn't get to a the bottom for a feel with out raising up the car for access. I'll do that one day next week. I noticed that the exhaust had an off smell to it. It had 'white' color to it. I am thinking that all the antifreeze is about gone, and I am smelling that in the exhaust. And the white would be steam.

The upper radiator hose is new, still has the NAPA sticker on it. It has a new 'dogbone' on the driver's side. If the water pump is on the drivers side of the engine on the forward head it also appears to be new. I didn't find a thermostat on the engine. I have purchased a 'Haynes' from Amazon.com. It should be here sometime this next week

Oh yes, and it will get up and go pretty danged quick. 300 Hp vin '9'.

Joe

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 05-01-2010).]

josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #385, 05-02-2010 01:43 PM
      I removed the AC compressor to drain out the old oil in it. After being upside down for an hour I had '0' oil out of the compressor. I looked inside the two ports and saw that it was nice and clean on the inside. I'll add 4 oz's of PAG and spin it over a few times before I remount the compressor.

I found one more thing I needed to do before I remount the cradle. I had forgotten to get the mounting bracket for the torque rod welded while my welder friend was here a few days ago. He is coming back tomorrow afternoon to weld this on the cradle:





I am planning on stuffing this back in the body Tuesday morning before the humidity gets to high


josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #386, 05-02-2010 05:13 PM
      I removed my home made shifter bracket and the shifter arm from the transmission. I cleaned and painted them both. I didn't have a problem starting my car the first time last December, but I did want to make sure that the neutral safety switch was set in the correct position. My Haynes book calls this 'Adjustment'. There is a very poor picture and instructions on page 7-7. It isn't real clear on how to do this. I did find a 3/32nd drill bit, as called for. After putting the transmission in neutral I did find the two grooves that should line up so the drill bit will allow a correct adjustment. Mine was on the spot. Just by accident as I had removed this from the car for soldering the wires last year.

The photo I took before I painted my bracket. There is a collar around the shift arm stud that moves with the stud. The other groove is part of the flat black plastic safety switch. In this photo the grooves are aligned and the bit is laying in both. Both of these were full of crud and and almost impossible to see.


josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #387, 05-03-2010 03:34 PM
      Now that I have my my transmission and the shifter working together I am finished with the shifter cable. I removed the ECM and its tray and installed the shift cable in the car. Replaced same. I patched over the open hole where the second of the stick shift cables went threw. I added the Fiero heat shield to the engine bay:


I still have to turn the vacuum port on the throttle body for the brake booster, and to put the AC compressor back on the engine. I will paint the new weld this afternoon. So looks like back in the car tomorrow morning. My punch out list only has three items left on it to do before reinstall.

I am gonna remove the brake booster hose and clean it up before I add the engine. It is real dirty looking in the above photo

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 05-04-2010).]

josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #388, 05-04-2010 07:54 PM
      Today I got the Cadillac compressor oiled up and mounted it back on the engine. Replaced the belt, and got everything there happy. Added a 9/16 3" long bolt to the torque strut, and the other end to the head. Everybody happy there too. I forgot to add one bolt to the exhaust hanger before closing up the garage for today. I'll do that first thing in the AM. Engine is going back in tomorrow morning while it is cool in the shop. We are supposed to have an Ozone Alert tomorrow afternoon after 300pm.

Fieroseverywhere (caalon777@hotmail.com) MSG #389, 05-04-2010 08:03 PM
      Looking good Joe. You gonna take it out for the first spin this weekend?

katatak MSG #390, 05-04-2010 10:15 PM
      Go Joe! Getting close........ I wish I was there to give you a hand in the AM...... Good luck!

Pat



josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #391, 05-04-2010 10:21 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by Fieroseverywhere:

Looking good Joe. You gonna take it out for the first spin this weekend?


I'm not sure when I'll get the first spin. I don't know if the rear brake calipers are any good or not. They are still on the rotors. Things are kinda shaping up here pretty quick now. I still have have to figure out the cooling hoses part. I just have been waiting to do this from the thermostat to the drivers side coolant pipe.

I will clean out the console area pretty soon to get 22 years worth of cigarette ashes out of the car. I just want it clean, and don't want to smell the nicotine. I need to solder in the Vibe radio connector, then I can add the shifter to the interior.

Looking forward to hearing the exhaust tone with the new muffler for the first time.



Fieroseverywhere (caalon777@hotmail.com) MSG #392, 05-04-2010 10:46 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by josef644:


I'm not sure when I'll get the first spin. I don't know if the rear brake calipers are any good or not. They are still on the rotors. Things are kinda shaping up here pretty quick now. I still have have to figure out the cooling hoses part. I just have been waiting to do this from the thermostat to the drivers side coolant pipe.

I will clean out the console area pretty soon to get 22 years worth of cigarette ashes out of the car. I just want it clean, and don't want to smell the nicotine. I need to solder in the Vibe radio connector, then I can add the shifter to the interior.

Looking forward to hearing the exhaust tone with the new muffler for the first time.


The drivers side coolant hose is the most straight forward. I used a hose from a 85 2.5 and attached it, with a stainless tube (1.5" ID I believe), to a section of the caddy hose. I know the coolant tubes are different for an 88 but should still be close. The passenger side was also a fiero hose but cut short. Your heater hose routes completely differntly so I can't offer much there. I just cut and fit 5/8 hose for the lower one. Just cut and fit. The upper one used many parts that are not on your fiero so I won't go into it. I'm sure you'll have it in no time.

I really want to hear your exhaust also. I think its going to sound great. I'm excited for you. I remember how much fun it was when all my hard work finally paid off and I got the first spin...

[This message has been edited by Fieroseverywhere (edited 05-04-2010).]

josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #393, 05-05-2010 07:57 AM
      This thread was opened 8153 times before being moved to 'The Construction Zone'. Once here the counter started from zero.

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 05-05-2010).]

josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #394, 05-05-2010 01:09 PM
      I put the cradle and engine back i9n the car this morning. 2 hours. Of course I had everything pretty well learned, as I have raised an engine in a Fiero 5 times now. Now I just need to connect everything back together
Body high, engine low. Moving over:


Under the body:


lower the body down:

Nice and low:


Raise the front to meet the body, and install the two front cradle bolts:

Raise the back of the cradle and install the two rear bolts. Remove the two jack stands:


I remember this!!!!!:


This much room with out the trunk:



katatak MSG #395, 05-05-2010 07:48 PM
      Good progress Joe - It's about time this got in the construction zone - now all my favorite threads are in one place.

Pat


josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #396, 05-05-2010 09:11 PM
      I was wondering how long it would last in General Chat too. Pat I had no idea you had threads going on here.

I found a problem this evening. My fuel lines I had hard mounted in the engine bay were destroyed by the raising of the engine today. I think I can repair the damage by just lowering the rear of the cradle about 8 inches , then raising it back up after the bo-bo is repaired. Still looking at things to make sure all is well before I start connecting everything back up. Looks like one of my wiring pieces is now in the belt drive. I'll have to re -route them and add more wire to them. I don't want wiring in the belt drive.

Joe

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 05-05-2010).]

Fieroseverywhere (caalon777@hotmail.com) MSG #397, 05-05-2010 11:49 PM
      Someones been busy today. Thats a good amount of pregress for one day. Iching to drive it a bit?

josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #398, 05-06-2010 07:53 AM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by Fieroseverywhere:

Someones been busy today. That's a good amount of progress for one day. Itching to drive it a bit?


Maybe !!


katatak MSG #399, 05-09-2010 11:09 PM
      Hey Joe, The first drive is way too much fun - the second and third are even better! It's worth all the cuts, bruises, aches and pains! Thanks for all your help.

Pat


josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #400, 05-10-2010 09:36 AM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by katatak:

Hey Joe, The first drive is way too much fun - the second and third are even better! It's worth all the cuts, bruises, aches and pains! Thanks for all your help.

Pat


You are welcome.


josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #401, 05-11-2010 12:37 PM
      I own page eleven!

I was able to do some work on my Coupe this morning. I pulled the wiring back threw the firewall, lowered the engine and fixed the fuel line fastener. Raised it back in the rear and re attached the two rear cradle bolts. Lowered the rear on wooden blocks. These are 15" high and a lot more stable than jack stands. I am going to Walmart to measure a 75 S series battery. I need to know if it'll go in with the alternator in place. It would be a shame to have to remove a bunch of stuff just to install a battery. 88's are a bit more narrow in the rear than all the rest of the Fiero's.

The wiring is all a mess now. I might have to cut and re solder a few wires to straighten out the rats nest.

Ein Bier Bitte?


Just got back form Walmart. Looks like the group 75 S battery will work. It's $48.00. I'll get one when Round Up in S.A. is over.

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 08-23-2010).]

Tony Kania MSG #402, 05-12-2010 11:18 AM
      I just wanted to comment that you are one of the nicest members that is here on Pennocks. You always are willing to lend a hand, give advice, or just be human.

Now, get that engine done so you can enjoy her!


josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #403, 05-12-2010 03:38 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by Tony Kania:

I just wanted to comment that you are one of the nicest members that is here on Pennocks. You always are willing to lend a hand, give advice, or just be human.

Now, get that engine done so you can enjoy her!


You are wrong big time about me. Just ask my wife she'll tell you how sorry I am. LOL. Thanks for the complements. We are very lucky here on PFF to have so many smart and decent members. I have read in other forums where every body was trying to out cuss the others. I ain't no angel, but I prefer to keep the conversations civil. My grand children are welcome to read any post I make.

I worked on the exhaust today a few hours. I had let the muffler drop to low when we were welding it up last week, so today I cut one piece if the pipe and removed some to raise the rear 4" higher. I just have to re-do the hangers now to match the new position of the two exhaust out pipes.

Wired in a Fiero radio so I could check out the speakers before I solder in the Vibe electrical connector. I want to get the interior pretty well knocked out so I can get some more room in my garage.

I am unhappy about the rats nest I have just to the right of my ECM. I am gonna have to re do some of this.

Working tomorrow.

Bitte ein Bier?

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 05-12-2010).]

SMTHGT MSG #404, 05-12-2010 07:01 PM
      Great Thread... Love it... Where is Pointblank..??



josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #405, 05-12-2010 07:27 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by SMTHGT:

Great Thread... Love it... Where is Pointblank..??



I am on Hwy 190 about 30 miles east of Huntsville, Tx. I can see Lake Livingston from my back porch.


Tony Kania MSG #406, 05-13-2010 01:15 AM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by josef644:

I can see Lake Livingston from my back porch.



Oh yeah? "I can see Russia from my house."


Fieroseverywhere (caalon777@hotmail.com) MSG #407, 05-13-2010 10:15 AM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by Tony Kania:
Oh yeah? "I can see Russia from my house."


He he. Through Google Maps maybe... Its been a while since I've been to Spokane... maybe its moved a bit.

I use to live in Alaska. If your on Little Diomede island (US) on a perfectly clear day you can easily make out Big Diomede island (Russia) in the distance. Prertty cool... no pun intended.


josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #408, 05-15-2010 10:07 PM
      I went to Wal Mart this morning and purchased a new Group 75 Battery for my Coupe $52.00 more in the pot.

I have everything ready to go to solder the radio connector onto the radio harness. I plan on doing this before it gets to humid in the garage. I have ordered the antenna adaptor off of E Bay. I am gonna finish up the front section of the dash and console, and add the auxiliary gauge set to the equation.


josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #409, 05-16-2010 08:05 PM
      I soldered in the Vibe radio connector on to the car part of the harness this morning. I used the heat shrink tubing on all solder joints. I had two of the Fiero gray wires mixed up and it wouldn't play with sound. After I figured it out and corrected the gremlin. She was pure magic. I love this Vibe radio. I just have my 12 battery charger connected to the cars harness so I can't turn on the lights to see 'Park' position. I will correct this some time tomorrow and give it a good 'night' test with the garage door down. I had forgotten to order one of the antenna adaptors, and had to snag one off of E bay this morning. Should be here by Thursday. I got a shipping notice fromt the seller this afternoon.

Mowing tomorrow morning.

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 05-16-2010).]

josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #410, 05-18-2010 12:51 PM
      I worked on the C500 connector today, getting everything back like it was supposed to be. Connected all of the alternator wires. I have found out why so many are relocating the battery . I have about 5/8" between the battery and the tensioner pulley bolt. I don't know if I could replace the brive belt with the battery in the battery tray.

I am gonna go underneath the car this afternoon and see how I want to run the positive battery cable. I don't want to get it roasted, pinched or rubbed raw by the AC pulley and belt. I am just about outta room on the passengers side around the battery's area:

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 05-18-2010).]

katatak MSG #411, 05-18-2010 04:01 PM
      Looking like progress Joe - missed ya at the Round Up!

Pat



josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #412, 05-18-2010 06:24 PM
      I was able to move some wires around a bit and now have the body part of the C500 off of the idler pulley with 2" to spare. I got a measurement for a Positive battery cable and will get a new one tomorrow. I put a new Negative cable on the engine today, and ran a lead over to the body for a good chassis ground. I raised the front end of the cradle just a bit and was able to pull the passenger side front cradle bolt back enough to get the nut threaded on the end. I need to tighten all of the cradle bots good while underneath doing the battery cable.

I have one mow tomorrow morning at 7:00am, then off to my 88 Coupe for some more punch-out work.


josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #413, 05-19-2010 01:46 PM
      I was able to get a few things done this morning after mowing. I soldered and used the heat shrink on the two wires I had to switch around on the radio connector. I cleaned and vacuumed the area underneath the shifter assembly. It had 22 years worth of cigarette ashes. Installed the shifter assemble and connected the shift cable to it. This is the first time since last August that this car has had a shifter and cable in it. I got underneath the car and connected the passenger side coolant hose and the return line hose from the heater and the coolant pipe. The 88 4Cyl hose was to long. I had to trim about 5 " off of the end that connects to the engine. I didn't get to the parts house to buy a new Positive battery cable.

I went back out in the garage and cut out the parts of the console skeleton that needed to be removed for a Vibe radio install. I now have everything trimmed that needs to by modified for a good clean install. I sat the skeleton in the car. I will finish that part and the front part of the console man yanna ,the HVAC etc. Almost 2pm here, and getting pretty warm in the garage.

Pulled a fast one on the wife this evening. Asked her if she wanted to go to Huntsville for supper, and we stopped off at O'riley's Auto Parts for a new positive battery cable. I gotta remember this one to use again !!!!!!!!!!

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 05-19-2010).]

Fieroseverywhere (caalon777@hotmail.com) MSG #414, 05-19-2010 08:21 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by josef644:

Pulled a fast one on the wife this evening. Asked her if she wanted to go to Huntsville for supper, and we stopped off at O'riley's Auto Parts for a new positive battery cable. I gotta remember this one to use again !!!!!!!!!!



He he. The bribe usually works well. Final push to the finish line...


josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #415, 05-19-2010 08:56 PM
      I might get far enough along to try the key tomorrow and find out how my exhaust system sounds. Just one quick blip of the throttle. By this weekend for sure. I have jury duty starting Friday until the trial is over. I want to have coolant in it this weekend.

Mowing again in the AM untill maybe 10:30 or so.

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 05-19-2010).]

katatak MSG #416, 05-19-2010 10:05 PM
      Don't you hate when things like work and civic duty gets in the way of Fiero fun?

Not sure how much trans fluid you will need Joe. Mine was full when I got it from Carver1 and it had the Caddy tripots in it. I lost about 1.5 quarts when I installed the axles. When It was all said and done, I put 2 quarts in it to bring up the level. Prior to pulling it from the donor car, Carver1 did a full service on the motor and trans so all the oil/trans fluid was new. Should not hurt the trans to run it low as long as you keep it in park. Once you get the engine running and to temp you can start adding a quart at a time till its up on the stick. I would not think it would take more than 3 or 4 quarts unless the converter is empty too.


josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #417, 05-20-2010 06:24 PM
      I was able to get just a small amount of things done today after mowing. I located a loose wire with a grounding eye. Bloozberry was able to point me at the correct grounding spot for this wire and that's all I was able to get done today. I also was able to get the console skeleton secured to the body.

My Jury duty was cancelled this afternoon, so I have the morning off tomorrow.

After some supper I went back out to try to get some more of the center dash and console back together. My front pad surround was for a car without the auxiliary gauges. I mounted the gauges and measured how wide I needed to cut and how deep I needed to be. I came up with 3 1/2" deep and 8 1/8" wide. I used a metal hack saw to make the cuts after a wood saw really mangled the padded part. The metal cutting blade worked perfect. I did all of this by hand as the plastic underneath the padding is real brittle. I cut off the padding part with a sharp razor blade. I had to remove another 1/8" on the width for the 8 1/8"measurement.

Here ya go:

and


Looks like it came this way now!!

The wiring connectors are for the radio, AC controls and the fan switch. As these are difficult to remove at times, I am gonna save them for last in case I have to take this all out again. That slider cable fastener is a ***** to get back on the controller and get the screw started.

I want to make sure the gauges work out ok before I screw down the padded surround. bulbs burn out on occasion. I will need the battery gauges idiot light to work to start the alternator to working.

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 05-20-2010).]

josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #418, 05-21-2010 04:55 PM
      Bunches of little things done today. I made and mounted exhaust hangers, finished adding the fasteners to the console, soldered a new cigarette lighter connector on its wire.

I tried to slide the radio in its place after fastening the HVAC controller, but it wouldn't go the last 3/8". I am gonna have to remove it and do a little more trimming where the face plate slides into the cavity.

I am planning on adding the transmission cooler lines to the body tomorrow. This car was a stick shift. It looks like they just go in the same place that the clutch hydraulic line was. This will complete converting this to an automatic shift car. I have been dreading doing this. Now it's time. I'll blow them out real good in case some dirt dabbers built a nest in there since I brought them home last year.

Drivers side:


Passenger side:


I am thinking about changing the passenger side hanger to the same method that I used on the driver's side. I just didn't want to remove the wheel tub on the passenger side. Lazy I guess.

I went out and prepped two seat hing covers that I had purchased from the Fiero Store. They were for sale at a big discount, and unfinished. I drilled the holes and removed the 'burrs' from the castings. Once smooth I flipped them both upside down and put the tan semi gloss on them. I'll spray the top sides with the vinyl spray this this evening.

They cover this:


And installed:



Turned out real well I think. Tomorrow sometime I am gonna clean the seat rails and put some semi gloss black on them.

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 05-21-2010).]

katatak MSG #419, 05-21-2010 09:48 PM
      I love it when car parts migrate into the house! Looking good Joe!

Pat



josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #420, 05-22-2010 12:58 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by katatak:

I love it when car parts migrate into the house! Looking good Joe!

Pat


These seats have been in the house since April when the skins came from Mr Mike. I am gonna put the passenger side in some time real soon to make some room for the grandchildren.

I went tout to the garage to start on putting in the cooler lines. It was a be itch as I thought it would be. I removed the spare tire tub for room and to be able to see what was happening as I threaded them in. At first I had the line on the wrong side of the steering shaft rubber cover thingy:



and close but no cookie:


As the lower pic shows the line is inboard of the steering shaft. I had to take it out and thread it between the frame rail and the steering shaft. Everything lined up pretty good then. Both lines threaded into the radiator the first time real easy. I love it when this happens

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 05-22-2010).]

josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #421, 05-24-2010 09:28 PM
      I got this leather shift knob in the mail today. mmeyer86gt/gtp here on PFF makes these, and does a great job on them.


I connected up the heater hose and the fuel lines to the engine today. I fastened down the spare tire tub, and painted the jack holder and the spare tire retaining rod. Light day, heat and humidity were horrid by 10:00am. Gonna put the radiator fan back in its mount tomorrow after I give it a good cleaning.

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 05-25-2010).]

katatak MSG #422, 05-24-2010 10:56 PM
      Hey Joe!

Nice shifter knob - the stitching looks great. Thanks for the WCF shift bracket info - I was feeling a little defeated and I di not like the way I had to "rig" mine to work. I feel a change in the works.

I feel your pain with the humidity. At 6:30 AM I was in El Paso - 78* 0% humidity. An hour later I was in San Antonio 100% humidity - it was raining. A few hours later, I was in Houston and when I got out of the rent a car, I almost died - and the humidity was only 78%. It's tough on an old fat man to go from 0% to well any humidity. I do not see how folks can live in the humidity. I guess you "climatize" to wear you live.

Pat


josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #423, 05-25-2010 12:06 AM
      The knob is fine, its just to light in color to use in my Coupe. I put it in the car, and it sticks out like sore thumb. mmeyer86gt/gtp here on PFF makes these. He did a great job.

I need to add that the color wasn't his fault, he made what I requested,

This morning I added the overflow tank and the fan. I think all is finished now under neath the front hood.

I removed the exhaust and removed about 3" of the 2.5 straight from each end. I am gonna put it back on one more time so I can mark the 90* turns to head out the rear of the car for welding. I am gonna go to Autozone tomorrow to look for a pair of 2 1/2" chrome tips to weld on the elbows before I drop it one last time for welding.


Just cam in from the shop. I replaced the thermostat with a new 195* one. I drilled two 1/8" holes in it for air escape while filling. New o ring used also. I am not gonna use a Fiero thermostat housing. I plan on using an in line filler topped off with a 20 lb cap. I got me a piece of metal pipe 5" long to join the new hose to the 88's driver side hoses and pipes. I'll post a picture tomorrow if I have it all dialed in.

Gotta be at the dentist for an extraction at 1pm, not gonna get much done tomorrorw.

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 05-25-2010).]

josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #424, 05-26-2010 07:41 PM
      I got new radiator caps , one 16 lb for the radiator, and a 20 lb for the in line filler neck this morning before my trip to the dentist. I also picked up two chrome exhaust tips for the car, but I am not to sure I like them after putting one on a tailpipe. Just didn't suite me.

More tomorrow.

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 05-26-2010).]

katatak MSG #425, 05-30-2010 10:53 PM
      Joe???? You must be taking it easy this Holiday weekend? I thought for sure I would here it fire up!

josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #426, 05-31-2010 09:08 AM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by katatak:

Joe???? You must be taking it easy this Holiday weekend? I thought for sure I would here it fire up!


Haven't done much this weekend. We were out of town until yesterday around 4:30pm. Slept in this morning. I plan on running the positive battery cable after while.


josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #427, 06-01-2010 04:48 PM
      I finished the transmission cooling lines, added the positive battery cable to the car and finished the exhaust this morning before it got hot in the shop. Axles and parking brake cables tomorrow. I have the new adjustable bolts to put in the lower strut holes. Might take the front wheels off of the 10" blocks. The fronts have been up there since late July or early August last year.

Parking brake cable connector has eluded me, ordered a new one from The Fiero Store. I ordered a pair rebuild kits for the front calipers also.

I found these on E Bay, and ordered up a pair. They are double walled inlet 2.25, outlet 4X3 8.5" long resonated. $42.00 a pair delivered. Photo lifted from E BAy seller:

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 06-02-2010).]

josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #428, 06-02-2010 02:07 PM
      I got outside about 8:30 am and installed both axle shafts. I installed the bolts that hold the struts to the hub assemblies. I had new adjustable ones for the lower holes. Connected the brake hoses to the metal hard lines.

Did this this morning. I still need to cut out the top of the radio opening so the CD's will come in and out:


Went back outside and trimmed out the top of the radio opening for the CD slot and eject button. Looks pretty good. There is a part of the cabin wiring harness behind this radio about 1" around. I am gonna unwrap it so it will flatten out a bit. The wiring connector for the radio hits this part of the wiring and keeps the radio from going in the last 3'16 inch . There is just not any more room behind the radio. I have a good 1/4 " between the HVAC panel and the faceplate. This does sound real good though.


josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #429, 06-03-2010 03:09 PM
      Rear heater hose on my 88 Coupe runs at the rear passenger side of the engine bay. I now have an exhaust manifold there to offer mucho heat. I was unhappy with the situation. I found a 90* 5/8 inch elbow in the help section. I used a piece of 5/8 hose to add the elbow to the chassis part of the aluminum line. The up part of the elbow got the old end of the 5/8 hose from the engine. I am 5 inches away from any exhaust heat now. I can add a second elbow if I find the new piece of hose to hot. This will get me far away from any engine heat.

I bought two foot of both size vacuum hoses and connected all of my vacuum lines with new hose. I even replaced the old ones connecting the charcoal canister to the metal hard lines.

I plan on working out the vacuum line for the power brakes tomorrow, and finish up the coolant filler and coolant hose deployment. I located my Indy vacuum line I robbed off of the Indy I gave Steve a while back.

I connected the power block by the battery to the positive battery lead to listen to the radio while I was in the shop. I had the key switch to the 'RUN' position. My radiator fan came on. I have been thinking about this all afternoon. Why is this darned fan running? It just came to me. My AC switch was pushed in on 'normal" AC. I hit the 'OFF' button, re connected the power lead. No more fan running. You just don't know how happy this made me.

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 06-04-2010).]

josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #430, 06-04-2010 02:39 PM
      Not much done today. I have a grand daughter graduating from high school tomorrow, and was asked by my bitter half to not go and get my hands stained dark working on that piece of junk in the garage again. I will not be able to get back on the Coupe until Sunday some time. I have mows to do Monday if it isn't raining again.

Finished up the power brake booster vacuum lines.

Torqued all the cradle bolts to spec.


josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #431, 06-04-2010 10:25 PM
      I had ordered some compressor 'O' rings last weekend. They arrived today, and were sealing washers, not compressor port 'O' rings. I spent about two hours on the net looking for a number to try to look up to get the correct ones. I located OEM # 02724674, which is AC Delco #1530169. I called O'Rrilly's in Huntsville, TX They had 9 in stock. 83 cents each. I drove the 32 miles each way and bought me 4 of these. If I was asking for these by application, 91 Cad Deville, AC & heating, compressor seals, etc they were not listed. I found this OEM number at http://gmpartsgiant.com/

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 06-04-2010).]

katatak MSG #432, 06-05-2010 12:28 AM
      Good info on the O Rings Joe! Thanks for sharing.

Pat


josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #433, 06-07-2010 06:06 PM
      Got these from the Fedex truck today:






I just have them stuck on there for now. I have a jack underneath to keep it level. I am pretty happy with these.


katatak MSG #434, 06-07-2010 10:36 PM
      Those look great Joe - hurry up and get them mounted then fire it up so we can hear what it sounds like!

Fieroseverywhere (caalon777@hotmail.com) MSG #435, 06-08-2010 09:47 AM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by katatak:

Those look great Joe - hurry up and get them mounted then fire it up so we can hear what it sounds like!




I bet those do work great. I ran resonator tips once and they were great. Been considering a new set myself. I really like those. Nice choice! Can't wait to hear them also. First drive is edging closer......

[This message has been edited by Fieroseverywhere (edited 06-08-2010).]

josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #436, 06-08-2010 11:09 AM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by Fieroseverywhere:




I bet those do work great. I ran resonator tips once and they were great. Been considering a new set myself. I really like those. Nice choice! Can't wait to hear them also. First drive is edging closer......



The biggest problem I have right now is finances. I am having to put money away for next years taxes. They have gone up for this year that are due Jan. 1, 2011. I also have my wife's car in the garage with the alternator out being rebuilt. I can't hardly see the Coupe right now, much less work on it.

I did make some progress on working out the AC lines yesterday. I have all of that ready to go back on the car for final test fit before I have the hoses crimped on the aluminum tubing.

Yes I also am pretty happy with the tips. Not bad for $15.00 each, and stainless steel too.



Fieroseverywhere (caalon777@hotmail.com) MSG #437, 06-08-2010 12:44 PM
      I know what you mean. I'm getting married the end of september. There is no money for anything else, and probably not enough for what needs to be done. We'll make do however we can. May be time to sell one of the fieros.

josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #438, 06-09-2010 10:04 PM
      I got some wiring done this evening and turned the key . She fired up on the second turn. It had to build fuel pressure. It has a bad miss again just like it did at the end of last November. I am thinking that the injectors have gone to Hell again. I poured a bit of gas down the bores and it ran a lot smoother again. I am thinking of getting a set of the Ford 4.6 injectors off of E Bay and quirt wasting my time with these Rochester dog turds I have.

I also need to know what dash light should come on when I turn the key to the run position for the bulb check.. I am showing:
Door Ajar
Seat Belt
Brake
Service Engine Soon
Volts
Oil

I am thinking that the 'Temp" light should come on. I am not sure what else should be on. The Service Engine Soon light goes out after a few seconds of the ignition being on. Is this correct? It has been so long now since I drove my 86 I can't remember.

All gauges were working, Oil pressure, Volts, Tach, Fuel and Temperature needle went to the far left line on start up. Speedo went to '0' MPH.
More tomorrow, I am gonna pull the fuel pump fuse and fire it of with just some 'poured in' gas down the throttle bores to check out a few things.

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 06-17-2010).]

Fieroseverywhere (caalon777@hotmail.com) MSG #439, 06-10-2010 10:25 AM
      The "temp light" only comes on during cranking. And only if you've done the fix....
http://www.fierosails.com/tempgage.html
Before the fix your temp gauge pegs instead. I prefer to switch the wires at the C500 & dash instead of the sensor itself.

Check engine light - Should turn on for 2-3 seconds with key on. After startup should turn on again for 2-3 seconds. This tells you the PCM is working properly.

Fuel gauge should not peg on startup. Is that what I read happened?

[This message has been edited by Fieroseverywhere (edited 06-10-2010).]

josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #440, 06-10-2010 12:00 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by Fieroseverywhere:

The "temp light" only comes on during cranking. And only if you've done the fix....
http://www.fierosails.com/tempgage.html
Before the fix your temp gauge pegs instead. I prefer to switch the wires at the C500 & dash instead of the sensor itself.

Check engine light - Should turn on for 2-3 seconds with key on. After start up should turn on again for 2-3 seconds. This tells you the PCM is working properly.

Fuel gauge should not peg on start up. Is that what I read happened?



No I was just saying that the gauges were all cooperating, and working as they were supposed to. I'll have to check into the 'Temp" light and see what the deal is, and watch my coolant gauge to see if it is dancing while cranking or not.. Were the 88's miswired also?


josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #441, 06-10-2010 12:06 PM
      I have page 12 too !

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 06-10-2010).]

Fieroseverywhere (caalon777@hotmail.com) MSG #442, 06-10-2010 02:07 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by josef644:


No I was just saying that the gauges were all cooperating, and working as they were supposed to. I'll have to check into the 'Temp" light and see what the deal is, and watch my coolant gauge to see if it is dancing while cranking or not.. Were the 88's miswired also?


As far as I know all fieros were mis-wired. If you temp gauge pegs on start then all it working as it should. Seeing a temp light is entirely up to, if you decide to do the fix.

Sounds to me like everything is working as it should. Congrats Joe! Now get that car together and blow the dust out of thte engine!!


josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #443, 06-10-2010 03:12 PM
      I am gonna start on the brakes and see if they will bleed and work. I need to finish up the coolant system. I have every thing I need to have on hand, just need to get motivated again. Brakes will get the car down on all four wheels and off of the jack stands.

My exhaust system sounded pretty good, except it made the 'miss' more noticeable.


josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #444, 06-12-2010 09:44 AM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by josef644:
Not sure if this is what you were looking for?
Group Ref.: Engine

Bulletin No.: 316006A

Date: November, 1993

SUBJECT:
SLOW DECELERATION WITH CLOSED THROTTLE ABOVE 5 MPH
(READJUST AIR RATE)

MODELS:
1990-93 CADILLAC DEVILLES, ELDORADOS, FLEETWOODS, SEVILLES, AND SIXTY SPECIALS (EQUIPPED WITH 4.5L OR 4.9L ENGINES)

THIS BULLETIN IS BEING REVISED TO CORRECT THE WARRANTY STATEMENT, AND CANCELS AND SUPERSEDES BULLETIN 316006 PUBLISHED OCTOBER, 1993.

Some owners may comment about slow deceleration with closed throttle above 5 mph. This may be particularly noticeable after performing bulletin T-93-44 (Corporate bulletin 016540R) even though all engine adjustments have been set according to published service information.

To correct this condition readjust the minimum air rate to between 400 and 450 rpm, the TP Sensor setting to .55 volts, and reset TP Sensor/idle learns using the procedures listed in the appropriate Service Information Manual.

For warranty purposes use:

Labor Operation: J6358

Labor Time: Use published labor time
.


Copied this from another thread, quoted it so I can save it.

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 06-13-2010).]

josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #445, 06-13-2010 11:58 AM
      Routed the coolant hoses today. You can not tell it by looking at he pictures, but there is 5" space between the crossover pipe and the inline filler and its hoses. I only had one hose clamp. I'll get four more tomorrow, and a 55 Torx socket so I can remove the two rear calipers for rebuilding. I have the kits and all here now.





Added 3 quarts of Dexron III.

I ran a wire from the starter solenoid to the battery so I can by pass the key switch to engage the starter.

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 06-13-2010).]

josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #446, 06-14-2010 12:37 PM
      Spent 4 hours this am removing the two rear calipers, and taking them all apart. Wasn't to bad I have most of it cleaned up and ready for the rebuild with new seals. I have two slider boots that have holes in them . Looks like they were done that way last rebuild. I want to get these finished so I can put the rear wheels back on the car and get back on the ground all the way around.

It was 81* at 7:15 am this morning. Humidity is 55%.

Bought four new hose clamps for the coolant hoses. Just to hot and sticky out side to mess with it right now.

I have made a WTB request in the Mall for two used slider boots.

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 06-14-2010).]

Fieroseverywhere (caalon777@hotmail.com) MSG #447, 06-14-2010 02:27 PM
      I remember rebuilding my 88 rear calipers also. It was a fun time.

I've had worse jobs for sure. Like this weekend. Had to replace an oil pump on a 91 Duke S10. Remove exhaust, starter, flywheel cover, 2 engine torque struts, fan schroud, power steering resovoir, and remove motor mounts so the engine can be raised. All this just to get an oil pan off. Replacing the oil pump was easy. Getting to it was rediculous!

Kinda gives you a new respect for most fiero jobs. They are easy by comparison.


josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #448, 06-14-2010 02:48 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by Fieroseverywhere:

I remember rebuilding my 88 rear calipers also. It was a fun time.

I've had worse jobs for sure. Like this weekend. Had to replace an oil pump on a 91 Duke S10. Remove exhaust, starter, flywheel cover, 2 engine torque struts, fan schroud, power steering resovoir, and remove motor mounts so the engine can be raised. All this just to get an oil pan off. Replacing the oil pump was easy. Getting to it was rediculous!

Kinda gives you a new respect for most fiero jobs. They are easy by comparison.


FEW, can you post me a picture of the parking brake cable going into the cradle on your 88 so I can get mine in the right place?

Thanks
Joe


katatak MSG #449, 06-14-2010 04:34 PM
      Been a few days since I was in here! You are getting a lot done in short time now Joe. I can't get to my pics right now to post for the park brake - do you have an 88 cradle in there. 88's are different from earlier. They route throught the forward crossmeber of the cradle where earlier models route behind the back crossmember. I bet you can't wait to drive it!

A note about the fuel injectors - not sure about the ones for the 4.6/Mustang - I used the ones out of the Crown Vic.I beleive the Mustang ones are the series 3 and the Crown Vics are series 2. The ones I used are working great - no miss or bobble. Once I got the fuel pump problem sorted, it runs very smooth now. If FEW has not done so - I will post pics of the ebrake routing when I get home this evening. Glad to hear she fired up. Even though you had it running before, it is still a big step toward out the door. Congrats!

Pat



josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #450, 06-14-2010 04:55 PM
      Yep its an 88.

The exhaust tone is a bit louder than I was hoping for. I will post a video maybe Thursday. I am gonna trim the 90* exit pipes and put the new stainless steel tips on and mark them all. I want to get this all removed and welded Thursday so I am finally finished with the exhaust. Just one more time.

I have to work tomorrow, and spend the day at the VA clinic Wednesday.


After dinner I cleaned the two rear caliper bridges and used some red caliper paint I had on them. This is the only part that can be seen threw the wheel anyway.

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 06-14-2010).]

katatak MSG #451, 06-14-2010 10:06 PM
      OK Joe,

I can't find pics of the cable together but here's some pics of an 88 cradle:

This is the left side - front cable goes through the slotted hole and the wheel cable goes through the smaller round hole:


This is the right side - right side wheel cable goes through this hole:


Right side cable clips into this hole:


Left side wheel cable clips in this hole. The front cable comes in over the top of the left cable:


Fiero store map:


I can't remember which cable has the threaded end that goes to the adjuster - I think it's the left side wheel cable! If you need pics of the adjuster and how the cables hook up, I will go out and get them off the Formula.

Pat

[This message has been edited by katatak (edited 06-14-2010).]

josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #452, 06-14-2010 10:37 PM
      My driver side cable is still on the cradle the front was not hooked to anything. I removed the right side one for welding the piece of angle iron for the mount welding. I think I can get it all together now.

Thanks for the pictures Pat

Joe

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 06-14-2010).]

josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #453, 06-15-2010 11:17 AM
      Installed the last two clamps for the coolant system. I added about two gallons of water and was surprised that I could not see water in the radiator neck. It was all on the floor. I had failed to tighten the drain plug.

Removed the over flow tank and tightened the drain plug. About 1/2 gallon later I had water up top. Capped it off and continued to fill.

Once I had the fill hose full I went to turn the key for a 5 second run to purge air. Nada, nothing.

Used the meter to check voltage. 2 Volts ain't enough. The battery had gone down over night. I had left the dome lights on since??? Hooked up the battery charger.

Removed the passenger side headlight for rebuild, then the drivers side also. I have the Rodney Dickman rebuild kits for 88's here already. Something to do later after supper time is over.

Installed the overflow tank. Removed the overflow tank

Added the radiator fan, then added the overflow tank again.

Battery is coming back up real nice. I'll remove the charger around 3:00 or so, and give her a spin.

Rebuilt drivers side headlight, pretty easy as I have done 84-86's before.

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 06-15-2010).]

josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #454, 06-15-2010 08:35 PM
      Here is a picture of the three white 'plastic' bumpers that disintegrate beside a pile of crumbled up wasted pieces. The passenger side motor was a bit harder than the driver side, but after rebuilding two 84-86 motors this was a piece of cake. Rodney's instructions were very good. I used the Vice Grip method of removing the gear.



katatak MSG #455, 06-15-2010 11:37 PM
      Hey Joe,

Are my eyes playing tricks on me or is that a flat spot on the gear? Is that a "mod" for installing the side that fits under the drive shaft? Or maybe I had one too many beer's this evening.


Pat


josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #456, 06-16-2010 07:43 AM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by katatak:

Hey Joe,

Are my eyes playing tricks on me or is that a flat spot on the gear? Is that a "mod" for installing the side that fits under the drive shaft? Or maybe I had one too many beer's this evening.


Pat


Sharp eye Pat. I had already trimmed the gear and it was ready to go back in the housing before I took the picture

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 06-16-2010).]

josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #457, 06-16-2010 04:44 PM
      Spent the whole day at the VA Clinic in Lufkin,Tx today. All was well. I had lost 26 lbs since my last visit April 10th.

Its an oven in the grange after been locked up all day. I'll get back on it man-ya-na.

Gonna finish up the coolant filling and burping first, then let it idle for a while and watch for leaks and watch the temp gauge to see if it is working. Remount both headlights after looking for leaks.


josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #458, 06-17-2010 10:28 AM
      Got the two headlight remounted and tested out. They work great. Sorta fast compared to my 86 Coupe.

Finished up the coolant fill. I am gonna hook up my AutoXray 5000 and watch the temperature come up for the first time. This will be the first time I have ran the engine with coolant in it, or for more than 20 seconds at a time. It appears that my temp gauge is not cooperating. It goes all the way to the far right with the engine running. Far left with just the ignition on. I'll have to work on straightening that out later.

I plugged in the Code reader , and set it to monitor the engine. Tach was right on the nose by the gauge. J Gunsett here on the forum did the modification for me. When the water temp reached 155* the engine threw the belt. I had been running it about two minuets. Dis ani't gonna be fun. Close but no cookie!

I am getting a code 52 also. It is something about memeory reset.

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 06-17-2010).]

Fieroseverywhere (caalon777@hotmail.com) MSG #459, 06-17-2010 11:07 AM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by josef644:

Got the two headlight remounted and tested out. They work great. Sorta fast compared to my 86 Coupe.

Finished up the coolant fill. I am gonna hook up my AutoXray 5000 and watch the temperature come up for the first time. This will be the first time I have ran the engine with coolant in it, or for more than 20 seconds at a time. It appears that my temp gauge is not cooperating. It goes all the way to the far right with the engine running. Far left with just the ignition on. I'll have to work on straightening that out later.

I plugged in the Code reader , and set it to monitor the engine. Tach was right on the nose by the gauge. J Gunsett here on the forum did the modification for me. When the water temp reached 155* the engine threw the belt. I had been running it about two minuets. Dis ani't gonna be fun. Close but no cookie!

I am getting a code 52 also. It is something about memeory reset.



Code 52 just means the battery has been disconnected. It goes away on its own and doesn't set the light.

Did you switch to the 3 wire temp sender? If not your gauge will not work right. The caddy has a switch and can only control a light. If you did then double check the wiring. Could have mixed up the light and gauge wires.

Any idea why it threw the belt? Hows your tensioner holding?

[This message has been edited by Fieroseverywhere (edited 06-17-2010).]

josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #460, 06-17-2010 11:11 AM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by Fieroseverywhere:


Code 52 just means the battery has been disconnected. It goes away on its own and doesn't set the light.

Did you switch to the 3 wire temp sender? If not your gauge will not work right. The caddy has a switch and can only control a light. If you did then double check the wiring. Could have mixed up the light and gauge wires.

Any idea why it threw the belt? Hows your tensioner holding?



Not sure, fixing to go back out and look at it. Could be right about the two wires on the the sensor and a new connector. I did install the three wire sensor.

Might have to get you to make me a working tensioner set up. So I can move forward!!! Two minuets is not enough running time.

Belt is destroyed. $18.00 flushed down the drain. I found that I only have one bolt in the water pump pulley now. I found one in the floor, and the third one has eluded me. I was hearing a sound like a Ford power steering pump going out just before the belt was destroyed. I was out of the car and looking at the engine when it happened. I noticed the alternator wasn't running any longer.

Don't forget to tighten the three water pump pulley bolts before installing the engine in the car.

This is gonna be fun!!!



Here is the destroyed belt:


I located a replacement bolt for the missing one and put these back on the water pump. Getting the first one started was fun as I couldn't find the threaded hole from underneath. I used a 90* screwdriver to find the hole and started the bolt in the remaining one. The third one was easy as there were now two of the three bolts threaded into the water pump.

I'll get a new belt this evening.

Joe

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 06-17-2010).]

Fieroseverywhere (caalon777@hotmail.com) MSG #461, 06-17-2010 02:23 PM
      I did the same thing on my first start. The waterpump pully bolts were not tight. I caught it before it fell off and shredded the belt. What a racket that made though! For me its usually easier to install the pully from the top. Mine takes 3x13mm bolts. Get the three bolts started first then put the new belt on so you can tighten them down. EDIT: Oops. I forgot you have the battery in the stock position. This would make it very difficult to install that pully. Might be easier for you to just pull the battery out.

Do you have a bench grinder? If so I can give you another design for a tensioner bracket. I just use a piece of 3/8" plate cut/ground down to the right shape and a spacer for the lower bolt. It works well but yours should work good also.

Getting close Joe. Now you get to start working out the bugs! Don't worry though it will only take the next few years to get them all. Just kidding....... or am I?

[This message has been edited by Fieroseverywhere (edited 06-17-2010).]

josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #462, 06-17-2010 03:33 PM
      I am hoping that mine will be OK with the water pump pulley tightened down.

I went back out and put new rubber mounts on the chassis AC line where they mount to the frame behind the drivers seat. They are the same rubber mounts that are used on the AC condenser up front. I had two new ones I had left from my 86 Coupe build a while back.

I will connect the lines to the compressor tomorrow morning, and see if it will pull a vacuum.

New belt installed, $18.00 more in the pot. Pretty easy with this tensioner system we all have been using. Hardest part was the belt isn't shaped for the pulleys. It's shaped for storage in the cardboard surround package. Doesn't want to stay on the pulleys for routing. Started her up for 5 seconds. No strange noises.

Man-ya-na

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 06-17-2010).]

josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #463, 06-18-2010 12:46 PM
      With the belt on the engine I was able to tighten down all three bolts on the water pump pulley this morning. Ran it for about 5 seconds.

I removed the radio and removed the black tape wrapping on the part of the harness behind the radio. Got some slack in it now and it will flatten out a bit. Afterwards the radio slid all the way into its cavity. Mounter the HVAC/Radio surround and the bezel face plate. Upper right hand corner cracked out. Shiest

My horns do not work. I used a jumper to short across the solenoid to check the horn circuit. The horn is just barely sounding. I tapped on them a bit , it improved their function a bit. I think they are just about deceased. I need to figure out why there is not current going to the horn button to close the solenoid. I know why the PO had air horns mounter behind the radiator now.

Took a look at my notes for the temperature gauge wiring. I still need to work that out before to long.

Decided to take a day off from any and all labor of any kind for the rest of the day.

Tired of watching TV, went outside and cut some of my exhaust pipe with the hack saw. They are ready to be welded up now, maybe sometime Monday.

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 06-18-2010).]

josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #464, 06-19-2010 03:49 PM
      have spent the morning attempting to rebuild two of my rear calipers. I have them back together, but I am sure that they will work as they are supposed to.


I don't see a need to send the sliders with the calipers either. They were not an issue to install. These were original slider boots , not The Fiero Store boots.

Joe

I just took another stab at these two calipers. I have been able to do it all correctly except for getting the parking brake screw bolt and it's seal back in the hole at the rear of the caliper. You will not know if it is in correctly until it is seated all the way in the back of the caliper. It is difficult to insert the piston past the piston seal.

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 06-21-2010).]

josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #465, 06-20-2010 03:45 PM
      Happy Father Day to all

Went to Conroe, TX to have brunch with my daughter and my grandchildren today. It was great to see them. I have lost 27 lbs since they saw me last and were amazed.

When I got home I put the fasteners in the mouldings that go beside the inside door jams.

Remove the speedo pod and replaced the temperature gauge and the fuel gauge.

Performed the 'Temp Gauge Pegging Fix' on my car, then replaced the speedo pod. Tested all out before fastening it all back down tight. All appears to be well at this time.

Worked on getting the horn working correctly. I think the horn is shot and the white plastic turn signal canceling cam with the horn ring on the back side are both in need of cleaning or replacement. The horn ring needs cleaning and re greased. I need to locate a new horn.




josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #466, 06-21-2010 03:13 PM
      Got the horn going this morning. I had to remove the mounting bolt clean the metal, then tighten it back down. I have horns.

I called Calipers on line and talked to them about the 25.00 R & R charge. That is plus the $75.0 each to rebuild your cores. He doesn't really want to rebuild my cores he told me. Just to build them from his parts bins. So forget that. I can use any parts house and get a guaranteed rebuilt regardless what my cores look like.

I just spent two more hours working on the two rear calipers again. I have figured out how to get the parking lever bolt and its seal back in the bore on the drivers side caliper. It is ready to be put back on the car. The passenger side is together but I am nor real sure about its working correctly or not. It just didn't fell right as the piston went in the bore. I removed the piston and placed it back in a second time. All appeared well, but who knows.

I ran the engine for about ten minuets this morning, and watched the temperature gauge. That appears to match the temperature reading on my AutoXray 5000. When it all got to 199* it just sorta stayed there for a while. I let it run there for about 4 minuets or so, just watching the gauges.

It has dropped the ALDL Code 52, or memory reset code, but I picked up a code 62, something to do with the cruise control. I don't have cruise control. Might have to get stickpony to delete this from my chip.

Something isn't right in the serpentine belt department. It appears that something is out of alignment. The belt looks like it has been sanded with sand paper on the flat side. I don't even have a clue on where to look to fix this.

Located one small leak. It is where the heater return line enters the return coolant pipe. It's clamp is tight, so I don't know what the deal is here. I will drain the system and remove the hose . I can then look for a dirty barb, or a crack in the weld there. I really hope it is just dirty there preventing a good seal. I will loose about 1 1/2 gallons of water by taking off that hose. I'll just have to use a couple of drain pans to catch the water.



I drained the water at the heater hose return here in the picture and when I went to pull the hose off of the nipple the coolant hose moved. Yep it was loose as a goose. I cleaned the return line nipple anyway and put it all back together. Tightened all clamps back down good.

I'll add water and check it out tomorrow.

Heat index is 108* here

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 06-21-2010).]

josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #467, 06-22-2010 12:18 PM
      My welder friend came over this morning and we tacked the tips to the pipes. I dropped the exhaust from the car so we could weld everything up good. After a good cool down period I put it all back on the car. I like it, sounds pretty good too.



I ordered a 84-87 rear caliper rebuild kit form O'Rileys Auto Parts yesterday. I went to town to get it this morning before playing with the exhaust. $ 9.00 more in the pot. I looked at a 10 " chrome air breather while I was there. About $25.00, maybe soon !

I took the passenger side caliper apart and replaced the one seal I was unhappy with. It went together right the first time and was seated and sealed perfect. I put the rest of the parts on it. I now have two fresh rebuilt 88 rear calipers ready to go back on the car. Tom Slick donated me two 88 slider boots last week, and was kind enough to send me one more so I can get this car back on the ground.

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 06-22-2010).]

SMTHGT MSG #468, 06-23-2010 12:02 AM
      We are gonna have a bunch of 4.9's running around Texas before long... Looking Good



josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #469, 06-23-2010 12:25 PM
      I got one caliper on the ride today. Opted for a set of new pads for the rears. Ordered them from my local NAPA, will be here in the AM.
I had painted my bridges a few days ago, and had them out in the hot sunshine 'baking' since. On the drivers side rear:



I filled it back up today with coolant, and was surprised to find the leak was still there. I will drain again in the am, I am gonna get a new piece of hose and put some yellow 3M on the end before I clamp it down. some um gotta give here.

Found my vacuum modulator hose unplugged. It was to hot there to reconnect it back up. I had been running it for 15 minuets or so.

Ordered a set of RayBestos pads for the front today. They were on sale for $14.86 at RockAuto.com I also used the discount code offered here somewhere. Ordered a set of caliper rebuild kits for the fronts also. Might as well put kits in those while I am at it. The fronts will be a joke compared to doing the rears. I will have to lube the sliders anyway. Might as well put a new seal and piston boot on at the same time.

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 06-23-2010).]

katatak MSG #470, 06-23-2010 08:24 PM
      Looking good Joe. The tips look great - we need a sound clip!

Pat


josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #471, 06-23-2010 09:38 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by katatak:

Looking good Joe. The tips look great - we need a sound clip!

Pat


I will put one up tomorrow after I finish playing with the rear brakes and trying to stop that danged leak:



I am gonna try to use a mirror morning to see where exactly the leak is at before I drain it out again. I am not sure if it is the coolant hose leaking, or the heater return hose or the nipple weld has let loose.

I have e mailed the injector bunch inquiring about a set of Bosche type III's for my engine. I want to get those coming pretty soon, My idle has smoothed out quite a bit after I have about 30 minuets on the engine now.

Pat what hose did you use for the passenger side to the water pump? Was yours an 88 V6 car or 88 4 clyl car? I have not been able to find a listing for a new 88 4 cyl coolant pipe to water pump hose.

Just went out with a small mirror and a flash light. It looks to me to be leaking from the heater return hose. I am gonna put a new on tomorrow.

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 06-23-2010).]

josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #472, 06-24-2010 12:18 PM
      I tried to put new pads in the drivers side caliper this morning. They are about 1/16" to thick. I can get the old outboard pad to go in. It is almost as thick as the new one. There is about 1/16" difference, enough for the old one to work. I loosened up the caliper bridge bolts a bit, inserted the new outboard pads, then tightened them back down. That wheel was then locked up. No turnie turnie turn at all !! Took out the new outer, inserted the old outer pad tightened it back down and all is well again in the land of Oz. Removed Caliper and tried to get the piston to go in a bit more. Ain't happening. Just gave up !

I had been wanting to attach the AC lines from the chassis to the AC compressor so there is no contamination the lines. The fuel fill hoses have been modified and were right on top of the connector there. I loosened the filler hoses and put the AC hoses on the connector. And of course there was a fight to get the fuel hoses back on the fuel filler pipe ends. Nothing has been smooth and easy today

Installed the new vacuum modulator hose I picked up this morning. While putting that on the car I found a transmission cooler line leak. Very small, but there and needing attention.

I stopped and closed up the shop. You know I have good AC in the house !!

I'll post a video this afternoon so you can heat the exhaust tone. I want to start it up so I can look for the heater hose leak while the coolant is under pressure and hot. Maybe I can discover that evil Gremlin living in my Coupe.

I purchased a set of the Bosch III's for my 4.9 They were listed as replacements for the Caddie 4.5 and 4.9's. $80.00 delivered. Here is the application guide from their listing:

"APPLICATIONS ARE :

FORD /LINCOLN/MAZDA
* 1986 -1995 5.0 V8 MUSTANGS
* 1996 -2001 4.6 MUSTANGS
* F-Series 5.0/5.8L EFI-MPI
* Lightning Truck 5.8
* 1993-96 4.0 Explorer
* 1990-95 4.0 Aerostar
* 1990-92 4.0 Expl/Ranger
* 1993-94 4.0 Ranger
* 1996 4.0 Aero/Ranger
* Mazda Navajo 4.0
* 1997-98 3.8 Mustang
* 1990-1992 5.8 E/F SERIES P/U BRONCO
* 1997-2000 5.4 EXPEDITION
* 1992-1998 4.6 CROWN VICTORIA
* 1986-1990 5.0 LINCOLN TOWNCAR
* 1991-1996 4.6 LINCOLN TOWNCAR


GM:
* 1990 deville 4.5 V-8
* 1991-95 deVille 4.9 V-8
* 1985-88 Firebird TPI 305
* 1985-88 Camaro TPI 305
* 1994-96 Caprice 4.3 V-8


DODGE:
* 90-93 Trk/Van 5.2 5.9 V8
* 87-95 Dakota 3.9 V-6 "
end quote

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 06-24-2010).]

Fieroseverywhere (caalon777@hotmail.com) MSG #473, 06-24-2010 02:21 PM
      Were those the rear calipers you had the pad problem on? Just wanted to be sure you knew the pistons twist in. Unlike the front they can't be compressed back in. Its an ebrake thing.

josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #474, 06-24-2010 02:42 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by Fieroseverywhere:

Were those the rear calipers you had the pad problem on? Just wanted to be sure you knew the pistons twist in. Unlike the front they can't be compressed back in. Its an ebrake thing.


Yep I know. They are turned all the way in. I have checked it.

Here is the video and audio clip The engine doesn't start until about 10 seconds in the clip:



I'll do another one after I switch out the injectors next week.

I went back out and looked at the caliper one more time. I removed the parking brake lever from it. I used a wrench to turn the actuator bolt in the retraction direction. After a few turns I bumped the caliper with my hand, then used a screw driver that fit between the piston and the new brake pad, inboard. She moved about 1/16" The new outboard pad dropped right in. Go figure !!! Going back out now to re attach the parking brake lever.

All's well on the drivers side caliper now. I took a good look at the other side caliper. It was out just a bit also. I took it back apart, and re assembled it. This time I made sure the piston was bottomed down all the way and the holes in the piston face were in the correct position for matching up with the inboard brake pad. I am getting pretty good at these 88 rears now. I ain't scared of em no more.

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 06-24-2010).]

katatak MSG #475, 06-24-2010 10:23 PM
      Hey Joe,

I used the stock passenger side hose and it was a 4cylinder car. I'll see if there are some numbers on it.

Pat

Edit to add - sounds good!

[This message has been edited by katatak (edited 06-24-2010).]

josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #476, 06-24-2010 10:59 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by katatak:

Hey Joe,

I used the stock passenger side hose and it was a 4cylinder car. I'll see if there are some numbers on it.

Pat

Edit to add - sounds good!



1988? The Fiero Store doesn't even have a listing for an 88 4 cyl passenger side to water pump hose. I don't really want to use a flex hose.

I took a mirror and used it to try to find the leak this afternoon. I think it is the weld ,heater return nipple to coolant pipe. I am gonna move the hose back a bit and re tighten. I'll be able to see a little better. Then get it up to 170* or so again and take a good look again. My temperature gauge pretty well agrees with my code scanner on the coolant temperature. First mark from the left is 190*. About the same place as on my 86 Coupe.

I am gonna finish the rear brakes first, then do the parking brake cables before starting on the leak again. I would like to remeove the front wheels and prepare to start on the front brakes if it doesn't get to hot to quick.

Rained here till 1:30pm today. It will be sticky fast tomorrow.

Joe

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 06-24-2010).]

josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #477, 06-25-2010 11:52 AM
      Both rear calipers and pads on and torqued down to specs. I have found that my parking brake cables are wasted so I just have the ends in its holes to keep the springs in place. I'll have to order all three new .$80.00 more shot to hell.

One side:



and the other side:



The rotors look better than they appear. The camera flash paints it, and lites it up for capture. I used a air sander to remove the surface rust on both sides before mounting them on the hubs.

Going out to drain my return coolant line and get a good look for the leak before lunch time.

More later

Drained, cleaned up , then installed a new hose. I tightened the hose with it away from the weld so I could see better. Refilled, and started it up to build pressure. Found the leaks. There are two. One from 12 to 3, and the second from 6 to 9 facing the pipe as it is mounted on the car. I can only get a picture of the one leak as the second one is on top and not accessible with the camera.


and

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 06-25-2010).]

Fieroseverywhere (caalon777@hotmail.com) MSG #478, 06-25-2010 01:47 PM
      Is your VSS signal getting to the PCM? Your RPM's seem to be dropping really fast. Thats usually the problem. Could also be the ISC disconneced or TPS slightly out of adjustment. Anyway.. That exhaust sounds great!! Well done Joe!

josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #479, 06-25-2010 02:21 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by Fieroseverywhere:

Is your VSS signal getting to the PCM? Your RPM's seem to be dropping really fast. That's usually the problem. Could also be the ISC disconnected or TPS slightly out of adjustment. Anyway.. That exhaust sounds great!! Well done Joe!


Yep it's hooked up. The car hasn't move at all so I don't think there is a VSS signal ? You know now that you mention it I haven't noticed the IAC motor making it's noises before and after killing the ignition. I'll take a look at those items. I don't have but the one code for the cruise control stored.

I was watching the throttle plates move up and down, so I know the IAC is moving things.

I just ordered a new Raybestos passenger side parking brake cable from RockAuto, $13.26 + shipping. This will get it going for now. I'll replace the other two later. The right side was wasted, the other two were just ruff condition.

How hard is it to remove the drivers side pipe for a re-weld ?

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 06-25-2010).]

Fieroseverywhere (caalon777@hotmail.com) MSG #480, 06-25-2010 03:58 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by josef644:

Yep it's hooked up. The car hasn't move at all so I don't think there is a VSS signal ? You know now that you mention it I haven't noticed the IAC motor making it's noises before and after killing the ignition. I'll take a look at those items. I don't have but the one code for the cruise control stored.



Thats probably it. Since the car is not moving there is no reason the ISC would set your coast idle. So I'm just hearing the RPM's dropping to idle speed. Since mine is a manual its set higher then yours. Just sounded odd to me.

The movement you see when the ignition is turned off is the PCM performing the "TPS learn". Its perfectly normal and wanted. As long as the TPS and ISC are adjusted properly.... It compensates for carbon buildup on the throttle body butterflies by substituting a new closed throttle TPS value in the PCM programming. It should do that almost everytime the engine is shut off. In short, it keeps the engine idling at the correct RPM even if you never clean your throttle body. Most cadillac owners don't.

Closer by the day Joe!

[This message has been edited by Fieroseverywhere (edited 06-25-2010).]

josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #481, 06-25-2010 04:12 PM
      Looks like I own Page 13 also. On with the show.

After a nice cool down I went back outside and removed the passenger side parking brake cable. I don't even know why I put it back in as it was in wasted condition. I raised the fronts and removed the front wheels so I can access the front calipers. It appears that there are new shocks, pads and hoses on the fronts already. I'll just keep these pads for spares or put them back on after installing new piston seals and save the new RayBestos ones on the way here.

I shot some PB Blaster on the bleeders so I can see if they will open up before removing them from the car. I'll get the front pads and bridges off this evening

I discovered that there is a loud clunk sound in the passenger side steering rack. Looks like I am gonna need the Rodney Dickman's 1988 steering rack bushings. Driver side seems fine, but if I have to fix it, I'll do it right the first time.

Sometimes it seems that I am fighting a loosing battle here. I repair one thing, and find two or three more in need or repair. Fix those , and its something else is right down the trail.

Enough already !!

When I was watching those throttle plates moving just a bit, it was while the engine was idling, and trying to stay around 800 RPM in Park I have never put this in gear yet as the CV Axles are extended and I don't want to trash a boot or joint.

Just got the driver side bridge and pads off. Rotor is stuck on the hub flange.

Both front rotors are .770 thick, The rears were about the same. I'm not sure what a new one measures out at, but of it was any thicker , I would never been able to insert the rear pads

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 06-25-2010).]

josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #482, 06-26-2010 12:12 PM
      I put some PB Blaster on the two bleeder bolt threads several times in the past 12 hours. I removed the front pads and bridges this morning, and painted the bridges red like the rears last week. I sat them out on my front porch so they can get two days of Texas sunshine to 'bake' the paint good. Sliders on the calipers were movable on both sides of the car.

I guess the PB Blaster did its job. I was able to open both bleeders.

I used PB Blaster on the hubs of both rotors a couple of times today. This afternoon I used a large 3 Jaw Puller and was able to get both rotors off for a good cleaning. No real scratches on either side. I have stopped for the weekend. I am gonna take the day off tomorrow.

My brake parts and injectors should be here Tuesday, so I am about out of things to do till then. Might drop the coolant pipe from the drivers side to get the nipple welded up Monday. Tuesday I have plans to go pick up a non sunroof top section and headboard about 3 hours away from home each way.

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 06-26-2010).]

Fieroseverywhere (caalon777@hotmail.com) MSG #483, 06-28-2010 10:29 AM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by josef644:

Sometimes it seems that I am fighting a loosing battle here. I repair one thing, and find two or three more in need or repair. Fix those , and its something else is right down the trail.

Enough already !!



Eventually it gets a little bit better. It never stops completely though. Just took the front fashia off last night to reattach the honey comb support. Whoever tried to fix the fashia last time never put bolts back in the support. It was flopping around and driving me crazy, and the bumper was starting to sag down. Got that all taken care of. Leave for work this morning and my VSS/wiring is not working right. No speedo, lowered power output, and bad idle. I know what you mean!! It gets really frusterating at times.


josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #484, 06-28-2010 12:14 PM
      I had to mow this morning, so now it's to hot in the garage to try to get anything done. 60% chance of rain, you can guess how humid it is outside. I will be going to Greenville, Tx in the AM to get a non sunroof top and a headliner board for my Coupe. I'll get a few pictures.

My RayBestos passenger side parking brake cable arrived today. So I will have that here for installation Wednesday. I also plan to put the new seals in the front calipers if they arrive here tomorrow.

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 06-28-2010).]

katatak MSG #485, 06-28-2010 11:58 PM
      Keep after it Joe! It will turn out great and you will be very proud of all the hard work you have done. I have the same types of issues with the XTC. Fortunately, before I did the 4.9 swap, I had rebuilt most the mechanical stuff on the car. It's just a Fiero thing. I have pretty much had to "tinker" with the XTC every night since the swap was completed. Some were my fualt - bolts not tight, hoses run in the wrong place, some wiring stuff - but (knock on wood), I have not touched the car in over a week. The boy is driving the heck out of it everyday and all seems to be well for now. You will get there.

Pat



josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #486, 06-29-2010 07:03 AM
      What did you finally do to the transmission shifter to keep it from melting ? And does the parking brake front cable go above or below the drivers side trailing arm?

katatak MSG #487, 06-29-2010 03:00 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by josef644:

What did you finally do to the transmission shifter to keep it from melting ? And does the parking brake front cable go above or below the drivers side trailing arm?


Well for the shift cable, I ended up using a bolt with some washers and a nut instead of the ball mount. The heat from the crossover melted the rubber inside the cable end so it would not "clip" onto the ball. I also redrilled the cable mount bracket to change the angle of the cable going o the shift arm. It's not really right and I am planning on getting the shifter cable mount setup from WCF to permanently cure the problem. Right now, when it's in drive, the shift cable end is nearly touching the crossover - I wrapped some extra insulation around the crossover and so far so good. I just don't like not being able to select all the gears.

Just went and looked at my 88 Formula - front cable goes under the trailing arm.

Pat

[This message has been edited by katatak (edited 06-29-2010).]

josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #488, 06-29-2010 09:21 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by katatak:

Just went and looked at my 88 Formula - front cable goes under the trailing arm.



Thanks Pat I will be connecting all of the cables pretty quick, maybe tomorrow. I will be putting kits into my two front calipers first thing in the AM.

Made it home with my new non sunroof top from MstangsBware's house:
 
quote
Originally posted by MstangsBware:

Just got thru doing this with josef644....Took maybe 45 minutes to get it off but most the interior was already out of the car. Was easier than what I thought but does require some patience...


Thanks to Stephen's help this wasn't to bad at all. Here it is in the bed of my S-10 truck before we tied it down for the ride 225 mile back home:




Made it home safely, with no damage to the new roof. Scored a bunch of parts I was in need of from Stephen. Non sunroof headboard, and some real nice beachwood dash parts. Just cost me a burger meal for him at Mickey D's.

Thanks for all the help.

Joe Crawford

Cleaned all of my plunder from Poe's place , and my tools out my truck this morning. Hung the top in the garage. I was gonna do the 88's front calipers this morning, but it is 100% humidity. 9 am and it is already nasty outside.
Before:

and after:

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 06-30-2010).]

josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #489, 06-30-2010 02:04 PM
      Got these today: Bosche III's


Got both front calipers off of the car cleaned up and and ready to rebuild tomorrow. I'll do them in the house after my wife has gone to work. What she don't know won't hurt her !

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 06-30-2010).]

josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #490, 07-01-2010 02:28 PM
      Put kits in the two front calipers. Ordered a set of The Fiero Store slider boots.


Rickady88GT (rjkmfam@sbcglobal.net) MSG #491, 07-01-2010 08:37 PM
      I took off the timing cover to replace the water pump housing gasket so I just replaced the timing set BUT no body seems to sell the cam (button) thrust bearing. Where can I get one. The one on it is in one piece, for now but looks old and hard. Who knows how much longer it has?

josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #492, 07-01-2010 09:06 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by Rickady88GT:

I took off the timing cover to replace the water pump housing gasket so I just replaced the timing set BUT no body seems to sell the cam (button) thrust bearing. Where can I get one. The one on it is in one piece, for now but looks old and hard. Who knows how much longer it has?


I looked at RockAuto, they had no listing for it. I'm not sure where you send ya for this one.

Joe


josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #493, 07-03-2010 03:09 PM
      I painted ten buttons that go on the plastic trim at the bottom of the doors. I installed a real nice radio HVAC surround Poe gave me Tuesday.

and


The mail delivered me the 88 brake slider boots I had ordered from The Fiero Store. I installed these on the two front calipers. They will go back on the car in the AM.

and


Thanks to The Fiero Store for fast shipping and selling this produdct for us.


josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #494, 07-04-2010 12:55 PM
      I installed the front two calipers and pads this AM. I am gonna have to remove the pads as it just occurred to me that I installed the ones with the squeal tab on the wrong sides. I had forgotten that they are supposed to be on the front facing direction

Installed the radio surround bezel.

HELP , I've been kidnapped by an old gray headed woman. I will be dragged off to Houston to visit with her kin folks for punishment. I was a good man !! I donate to the Red Cross and such. I don't deserve this mistreatment.

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 07-04-2010).]

josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #495, 07-05-2010 12:16 PM
      I switched the two inboard front brake pads this morning. Installed the new parking brake cable on the passenger side. The drivers side cable is wasted. I just ordered a new one from RockAuto. RayBestos less then $14.00. Used the discount number listed in the mall, saved myself a whopping .70 cents. Should have ordered this last week when I ordered the passenger side.

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 07-05-2010).]

josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #496, 07-06-2010 02:45 PM
      Spent 2 hours at the County Tax Office this morning. Homsteaded place now.

Removed the brake master cylender and bench bleed it. Back on the car and all lines connected and tightened down. 96* outside. I will bleed the system tomorrow morning.


josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #497, 07-07-2010 05:20 PM
      I used my Harbor Freight vacuum pump to take the air out of the brake lines today. I was watching the rear caliper pistons move in as I moved the parking brake arm forward by hand. I haven't see any leaks yet. I know it takes 20 pumps or so of the peddle to get the front pads to contact the rotors, but haven't done this yet. I always get nervous here. When I get the peddle up I am gonna put the front wheels back on.

My new driver side parking brake cable is supposed to be here tomorrow. After I get it installed I am gonna lower the car onto the tires for the first time since August 2009.

Bosch III injectors will be next.

I am thinking my brake master cylinder is deceased. I get no action at any caliper. About 100 brake peddle pushes gets no height to the peddle. I had the wife hold it down and no piston action on any of the calipers.

Ordered a Bendix master cylinder from Rock Auto.

No wheels on the ground tomorrow.

I'll replace the Rodchester Multi Crap injectors in the AM

Very unhappy back this morning. I'm having a hard time standing up straight. I'm not gonna be bending over removing and installing injectors today.

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 07-08-2010).]

josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #498, 07-08-2010 11:35 AM
      Very unhappy back this morning. I'm having a hard time standing up straight. I'm not gonna be bending over removing and installing injectors today.

I have no back pains while I am laying on the floor, so I removed the passenger side rack boot an found this:

and

and


I am able to get the white plastic bushing to go in about half way only. This looks like a job for Superman,,,, I mean removing the rack and installing a Rodney Dickman 88 rack bushing. The shaft on the inner rack rod is smooth and no presence of rust.



katatak MSG #499, 07-08-2010 08:19 PM
      Hey Joe,

I put a RD bushing in an 86 rack a while back. I had a heck of a time getting that old plastic bushing out. I ended up removing the rack from the car and had to cut it into 3 pieces to get it out. While taking the rack out, I broke 3 of the 4 rack bolts off. I had to weld nuts to the broken bolts, used a can of PB blaster and a lot of heat but managed to get them all out. It was probably the hardest thing I have ever done on a Fiero. I'd say you are lucky that it "fell" out and you found it. Hope your back gets better.

Pat



josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #500, 07-08-2010 09:24 PM
      Looks to like I could remove the spare tire 'tub' and install the RD bushing without removing the rack. I think you have to drill and insert two pop rivets to hold the brass bushing in place.

I am afraid that if I break those bolts off I am screwed beyond all means. I cant' weld. The car would have to be towed outta here and to a shop somewhere for repairs. Won't hurt to try before attempting the other.

Master cylinder is supposed to be here tomorrow on the FedEx truck, as well as my parking brake cable.

Been reading on removing the 88 racks. Seems like if the bolts break off, one can use an air chisel to cut the nuts off, then use a bolt,lock washer and nut to replace the busted part.

Ain't scared of this un any more. Let um break !!!

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 07-09-2010).]

josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #501, 07-09-2010 08:49 PM
      Installed the seats into the car. My grandchildren are coming and I had to get them out of their bedroom. So out into the car they went.

and


Installed the two rear side marker lights I got in the mail today. I also put new bulbs in to all four of the sockets.

My brake master cylinder and parking brake cable came on the FedEx truck today.

Installed two fine looking Jen-You-Wine Fiero Thomas tan sun visors that arrived in today's mail also.

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 07-09-2010).]

katatak MSG #502, 07-10-2010 01:08 AM
      Man those seats look good Joe. I am going to have to order a set for my Formula.

For the RD bushing, I drilled and tapped 2 holes and used machine screws - no real reason why other than it was easy with it out of the car. I'm sure that the rivets work fine. I agree, let em snap off....

Pat


BMTFIERO (bmtfiero@outlook.com) MSG #503, 07-10-2010 10:08 AM
      Wow Joe, you are really moving a long

josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #504, 07-10-2010 02:29 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by BMTFIERO:

Wow Joe, you are really moving a long


Thanks Tim.

I am hoping to get the brakes up to snuff so I can get the wheels on the ground and rolling. Just taking care of the little things that are a necessity. With wheels on the ground I'll get my first ride in my 88 Coupe.

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 07-11-2010).]

Lone Ranger (gene@frowbiz.com) MSG #505, 07-11-2010 02:07 PM
      Maybe by the time I get my butt back up to your place for a little help on the '86, I'll be able to get a ride in the 4.9!

josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #506, 07-11-2010 03:20 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by Lone Ranger:

Maybe by the time I get my butt back up to your place for a little help on the '86, I'll be able to get a ride in the 4.9!


Been wondering where you and that Silver Stallion have been hiding. Come on up Eugene.

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 07-13-2010).]

josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #507, 07-12-2010 12:11 PM
      Installed and adjusted the two rear parking brake cables this morning. I found that if I connected the right side to the front cable and then hooked the end of the right side to the caliper arm, then slipped the left side into the adjuster, that I had no problem hooking the left side cable into the caliper arm. This was all done with the adjustment almost all of the way off of the threaded rod part. Once all three pieces were mounted correctly, I had no problems adjusting the parking brake. I had been playing with trying to hook the right side cable into the arm without any luck for about 20 minuets or so when I tried it this way. Worked the first time.

Parking brake, done !!!!

I have grandchildren here for the week. The youngest is 4 1/2 , so I won't be able to get much done while they are here. Ya gotta keep an eye on this one all the time.

Removed both 'A' pillar trim mouldings, the 'B's are off already.

New master cylinder is next.

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 07-14-2010).]

josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #508, 07-19-2010 10:45 PM
      Nothing done on the car for the last 7 days except removing the 'A' pillar mouldings. I cleaned up the inside firewall cover that goes behind the seats that I got from Poe in Greenville a while back. The board is in good shape, but the covering fabric is nasty. Maybe some tan vinyl covering? The grand kids will be going home in two more days. I go out in the garage and just look at my Coupe every once and a while.

I want to get the new Bendix master cylinder put on the car Thursday morning before it gets hot.

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 07-21-2010).]

josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #509, 07-20-2010 09:06 PM
      Wit the help of my 11 year old granddaughter I bleed the brakes today. I have a 1/3rd peddle travel before firming up. Not good enough for driving around on the highways. I have some brakes now and could remount the wheels and take a small ride. But I would have to remove them all again to re bleed after replacing the master cylinder, and repairing the steering rack bushing

I don't want to go backwards so I'll sit here until I get the brakes working correctly.


TXGOOD MSG #510, 07-20-2010 11:18 PM
      It`s looking good Joe.
Hope to see it at the next event.
Mike


josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #511, 07-21-2010 06:34 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by TXGOOD:

It`s looking good Joe.
Hope to see it at the next event.
Mike


Me too !!!!!!


josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #512, 07-22-2010 11:54 AM
      Grand children are back home.

I finished adjusting the parking brake, and now have 7 clicks to hard parking brake. I added a locking nut to the threaded end of the passenger side cable before I adjusted the slack out of the cables. Both rear rotors still spin smoothly. This raised my peddle height to about 3/4 of the travel height. I'll live with that for now.

My 'Brake' failure light in the gauge pod is now off with the engine running.

Torqued down both rear axle nuts to 200 Ft. lbs

I am gonna remove the brake pads from my wife's Elantra this afternoon to add the anti squeal stuff. I didn't have any spray to add when I replaced her pads a while back. That squeal is driving us crazy. Got a new can of the spray from NAPA a few days ago.

Finished with the Elantra.

I have to mow in the AM, I want to remove the spare tire tub from the front compartment so I can spray down the rack mounting bolts several times over the weekend with PB Blaster. I want to get the rack out for repair. I will be ordering Rodney's 88 rack bushing Wednesday.

and

and

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 07-23-2010).]

josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #513, 07-22-2010 07:51 PM
      Got finished with supper and went back out to the shop to remove the spare tire tub. After I got it out it appeared that the bolts were totally clean, so I gave them each a good shot of spray, and took a chance. All four loosened up and came out. I put the two lower ones back in the mounts because I have to get the tie rods and steering coupler loose some time in the next two days. I need to get to Autozone and rent their small pitman arm removing tool.











I can not beleive that they all came out so easy. I have had cold sweats thinking about busted off mounting bolts.


Fieroseverywhere (caalon777@hotmail.com) MSG #514, 07-23-2010 10:21 AM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by josef644:
I have some brakes now and could remount the wheels and take a small ride. But I would have to remove them all again to re bleed after replacing the master cylinder, and repairing the steering rack bushing



You have a hell of alot more patience then I do. I would have put the wheels on and taken it for a ride even if I could only stop by using the ebrake. I know what you must be feeling right now. Sooooo close but waiting on the last few parts. I couldn't sleep for 5 days waiting for the last part to come in.

Go Joe!! That Caddy-Pon will be moving shortly!!

Caddy-Pon = Joes patented term:

 
quote
Originally Posted by: Someone with ALOT of freakin' time on their hands.

DISCLAIMER
This product is meant for educational purposes only. Any resemblance to real persons, living or dead is purely coincidental. Void where prohibited. Some assembly required. List each check separately by bank number. Batteries not included. Contents may settle during shipment. Use only as directed. No other warranty expressed or implied. Do not use while operating a motor vehicle or heavy equipment. Postage will be paid by addressee. Subject to approval. This is not an offer to sell securities. Apply only to affected area. May be too intense for some viewers. Do not stamp. Use other side for additional listings. For recreational use only. Do not disturb. All models over 18 years of age. If condition persists, consult your physician. No user-serviceable parts inside. Freshest if eaten before date on carton. Subject to change without notice. Times approximate. Simulated picture. No postage necessary if mailed in the United States. Breaking seal constitutes acceptance of agreement. For off-road use only. As seen on TV. One size fits all. Many suitcases look alike. Contains a substantial amount of non-tobacco ingredients. Colors may, in time, fade. We have sent the forms which seem to be right for you. Slippery when wet. For office use only. Not affiliated with the American Red Cross. Drop in any mailbox. Edited for television. Keep cool; process promptly. Post office will not deliver without postage. List was current at time of printing. Return to sender, no forwarding order on file, unable to forward. Not responsible for direct, indirect, incidental or consequential damages resulting from any defect, error or failure to perform. At participating locations only. Not the Beatles. Penalty for private use. See label for sequence. Substantial penalty for early withdrawal. Do not write below this line. Falling rock. Lost ticket pays maximum rate. Your cancelled check is your receipt. Add toner. Place stamp here. Avoid contact with skin. Sanitized for your protection. Be sure each item is properly endorsed. Sign here without admitting guilt. Slightly higher west of the Mississippi. Employees and their families are not eligible. Beware of dog. Contestants have been briefed on some questions before the show. Limited time offer, call now to insure prompt delivery. You must be present to win. No passes accepted for this engagement. No purchase necessary. Processed at location stamped in code at top of carton. Shading within a garment may occur. Use only in well-ventilated area. Keep away from fire or flame. Replace with same type. Approved for veterans. Booths for two or more. Check here if tax deductible. Some equipment shown is optional. Price does not include taxes. No Canadian coins. Not recommended for children. Prerecorded for this time zone. Reproduction strictly prohibited. No solicitors. No alcohol, dogs, or horses. No anchovies unless otherwise specified. Restaurant package, not for resale. List at least two alternate dates. First pull up, then pull down. Call toll free before digging. Driver does not carry cash. Some of the trademarks mentioned in this product appear for identification purposes only. Record additional transactions on back of previous stub. Decision of judges is final.
This supersedes all previous notices.


Just covering all bases to make sure your rights are protected.

EDIT: Not to be confused with...
Pontillac, Caddyiac, Ponticad, Cadero, Severo, Eldero, Fleetero, Fielle, Fiewood, Fieado, or any other Cadillac/Pontiac/Fiero hybred names. Not for use without expressed written concent.

[This message has been edited by Fieroseverywhere (edited 07-23-2010).]

josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #515, 07-23-2010 11:58 AM
      Man you must-a got lucky last night with all that spunk this morning. Thats a lot of typing !!!

Fieroseverywhere (caalon777@hotmail.com) MSG #516, 07-23-2010 12:01 PM
      Nope. Just got some sleep last night for the first time all week!! Insomnia sucks! (I didn't type the entire disclaimer, I should fix that)

Oh. Almost forgot Fierillac.

EDIT: Disclaimer fixed.

[This message has been edited by Fieroseverywhere (edited 07-23-2010).]

josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #517, 07-23-2010 01:33 PM
      I finished mowing , and went out in the shop for a bit. I removed the cotter pins from the tie rod ends and loosened the nut until the top was flush with the top of the stud. Sat a bottle jack underneath the knuckle's arm, then I put a 2 X 4 on top of the nut. I gave it a nice blow with a hammer. Both sides popped loose. One good blow was all it took on either side of the car. I'll fight the coupler in the morning.

Shower time. Through for the day.


josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #518, 07-23-2010 08:11 PM
      I had to put the anti squeal spray on my wife's brake pads. I didn't use any when I did the brakes on my 86 Coupe 3 years ago. Anybody know if the 88's need this on the pads, or if it is recommended ? 88 FSM doesn't mention using any. The 88's also have the 'pad' retainer spring-ie thingies that my 86 didn't have.

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 07-23-2010).]

Fieroseverywhere (caalon777@hotmail.com) MSG #519, 07-24-2010 11:44 AM
      I didn't use any on my 88 calipers. Haven't had any noise.

josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #520, 07-24-2010 06:04 PM
      I put my new master cylinder on the car this afternoon after bench bleeding it. I have a nice peddle now.

josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #521, 07-26-2010 10:39 AM
      Page 14

Removed the rack from the car this morning. It was a piece of cake. Removed the two mounting bolts I had left in place. Loosened and opened the coupler and moved the rack forward to un couple. Removed the brake line fastener that lives under neath the brake master cylinder. I had some slack in the lines. Removed the one brake line fastener on the passenger side. Mover the rack to the passenger side to get the outer tie rod clear, raised it upwards . Then just lifted it out on the driver side. About 10 minuets total. I used a small hammer to re seat the plastic bushing. Wish I hadn't. Now it is seated in there and I'll have to play with it to get it out of there.






I'll be ordering my rack bushing from Rodney Dickman Tuesday.

My back is giving me fits again today. I didn't sleep to good last night.

Maybe some more later.

Lowered the rear of the car to where the trailing arm mount was on wooden blocks 12" high. One 10 X 10, and one 2X4. Tomorrow I am gonna use a level to get the camber set pretty close by the bubble and tighten it down. This will get the rear tires pretty flat and square on the ground. Then the rear wheels will go back on.

Went outside after supper and used the level on the rear rotors to square the camber. Tightened everything down.

Wheels go on in the mroning.

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 07-26-2010).]

josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #522, 07-27-2010 12:43 PM
      Decided to just leave the car on jack stands and wooden blocks until I get the rack back in the car. It is so easy to get underneath there right now why change it? Got the wheels and tires uncovered with junk and out of the back of the garage. Ready to go back on the car.

Walked around the car one more time with the vacuum bleeder to make sure all was well.

Used three small flat blade screw drivers to lift the locking tabs on the old rack bushing. I got it out enough to drive it out of the tube.

Ordered the bushing from Rodney Dickman this afternoon

Bushing shipped Wednesday morning.

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 07-28-2010).]

josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #523, 07-30-2010 10:05 AM
      I got a 4 foot piece of beechwood headliner fabric, 3 foot of the same color vinyl as my seats, and a can of 3M Super Trim Adhesive. The 3M stuff is $20.00 a can now. I am gonna cover the firewall cover I got from MstangsBware on the end of June. It is in real good shape, just dirty and nasty looking.


and


I put the rear wheels on the car this morning. Looks more like a car now than a swap in progress.


After installing the vinyl on the firewall cover I am not happy with the 'Plastic' look, and have trashed it in the can. I prefer the one in the car now.

Got this in today's mail:

and


Nice instructions, and appears to be well made. I will photograph the install and post them up for prosperity. I am gonna try to do this Sunday morning.

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 07-30-2010).]

josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #524, 08-01-2010 12:35 PM
      I installed the rack bushing this morning. At first I used a 10-24 Allen head screw to hold it in the rack tube. But ran into a fit trying to get the bellows boot over the heads
Old one out

and

drilled the first hole and threaded the hole. Installed the first Allen screw.

Removed the Allen screws and installed two Allen set screws until flush with the outside of the tube.

other side too


I am out of Loctite, and will have to get some and use it before staking these. I want to install the rack back in the car in the AM

This rack issue was just a pain in the rear end, but wasn't hard to do as Fiero repairs go at times.


katatak MSG #525, 08-01-2010 01:02 PM
      Even though it was pain Joe, you will really like how "tight" the steering wil be.

Pat



josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #526, 08-01-2010 01:51 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by katatak:

Even though it was pain Joe, you will really like how "tight" the steering wil be.

Pat


Pat I have never driven this car, so any feeling transmitted threw the steering wheel, will be 'tight'. No problems tomorrow and I'll get to change that soon.


josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #527, 08-02-2010 11:32 AM
      I finished up the rack this morning, and installed it on the car. The coupler is a 'HOE". there is no other word for it. After fighting it for a while, I remembered someone said to take it off of the steering column and put it on the rack, then put it back on the steering column. So that's where I am at now. Both front wheels are back on the car. Made a quick look underneath the car to look for any thing hanging down or loose before lowering it down all the way.

Stay tuned.

Got all 4 wheels on the ground, started it up, I now have a Service Engine Soon light on all the time. Also the Temperature light comes on as soon as I started the engine. Great time for the batteries to die on my AutoXrtay 5000. Switched those batteries out. Couldn't find the battery hold down bolt, used a substitute. Backed the car back out of the garage the first time. I have a nice 'Reverse' engagement , and it lunges forward a bit when I put the shifter in Drive. This is our only automatic car. Checked the transmission fluid. It needed a quart to reach the full marks. Torqued all 20 lug nuts to 100 Ft lbs.

Backed out of the garage in to my street. The shift cable came off of the stud. Cant get the transmission in "Drive". Great parking brake, while I went back in the garage for a long screw driver . The cross over pipe is very warm by now.

Drove 1/2 mile around my block, then back in the garage. I had loosened the lower radiator hose to move the clamp out of the way when I was removing the rack. Nice little leak there now. Tightened that down good. By now the temperature light is just flickering on and off. I am just gonna un plug that thing. I don't want to have to look at it.

Drove around my 1/2 mile block three times. Looks like the speedo is working OK. It agrees with the speed on the scanner unit pretty well. I have 1st and 2nd gear, I will have to fix the shift cable coming off problem before I will get it on the County Road to check for 3rd and 4th gear shifts.

I have nice brakes. Something positive!!!!!!!!

The exhaust is a bit louder than I was hoping for. It sounded pretty good when I got down in it once for just a second or so.

So I now have about 2 1/2 miles on my Fiero.

To hot in the garage now, heat index is supposed to be 108* here today. 4 1/2 hours in the garage this morning, and I am soaked all over. Time for a good shower.

Driving this car was neat !!!!!!!!!!

Backing out reminded me why I love power steering.

All four on the ground.

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 08-02-2010).]

katatak MSG #528, 08-02-2010 11:41 PM
      Wah Hoo......congrats on the first drive Joe! Great news. Great job!

Pat



Fieroseverywhere (caalon777@hotmail.com) MSG #529, 08-03-2010 09:44 AM
      Sounds alot like my first drive. Its the time when alot of problems come to the surface. Dial her in a bit more and go for that second drive. I'm pretty sure my 3rd drive was the best. Congrats Joe!!

I had a huge constant smile for a week after that first drive! WOO HOO!!!!

[This message has been edited by Fieroseverywhere (edited 08-03-2010).]

josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #530, 08-03-2010 11:34 AM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by Fieroseverywhere:

Sounds alot like my first drive. Its the time when alot of problems come to the surface. Dial her in a bit more and go for that second drive. I'm pretty sure my 3rd drive was the best. Congrats Joe!!

I had a huge constant smile for a week after that first drive! WOO HOO!!!!





josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #531, 08-03-2010 11:39 AM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by Fieroseverywhere:

Sounds alot like my first drive. Its the time when alot of problems come to the surface. Dial her in a bit more and go for that second drive. I'm pretty sure my 3rd drive was the best. Congrats Joe!!

I had a huge constant smile for a week after that first drive! WOO HOO!!!!



Yep I gotta big smile this morning. Drove it about 4 miles in my neighbor hood. Temperature is hovering around 198*. Its 91* outside at 9:30 am. I might need a jacket.


FEW what does BLM mean exactly? I read once where you said it should be around 125. Mine is just 25.

Just found this on the net:

 
quote
The BLM is a long term adjustment , which is stored pretty much permanently (unless you disconnect power to the ECM), to the fuel delivery calibration that results from the ECM "learning" the values while you are driving around. 128 is the ideal value, because it is the center point of the range 0-255. Above 128, and the ECM is adding fuel to compensate for a lean condition at a particular load and RPM. Below 128, and it represents a correction for a rich condition."



I got fast enough today to see my 3rd gear engagement on my scanner. Gonna try for 4th gear this evening on the County rd .

Done some little stuff to the car and cleaned up the garage some.

Shift cable modification:


Today is a milestone with this car. I rolled it in the garage and started raising it up one year ago tomorrow.

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 08-03-2010).]

Fieroseverywhere (caalon777@hotmail.com) MSG #532, 08-03-2010 12:30 PM
      That quote pretty much covers it. The PCM need a bit of driving to fully calibrate the fuel delivery system. The calibrations are stored in the PCM in BLM "cells". There are several different settings depending on RPM's and air flow.. I'll have to double check the service manual tonight for the best explaination. Raydar is WAY more farmiliar with this stuff then I am at the moment. You might want to PM him as he can probably give a better explaination.

I usually look at the fuel intergrator (INT) as a more "real time" look as fuel compensation. This is the fuel trim values based on the stored data in the BLM's as the starting point for fine adjustments. Same as the BLM values, 128 is the mid point for INT. Higher then 128 fuel is being added. Lower = subtracted. This may help also...
http://wiki.3400z24.com/ECM_tuning#BLM_Cells

When you can, you need to get the car out for a real drive so it can properly learn the full range. My 4.9 seems to run best when the battery has not been disconnected recently. That usually clears all this stored data and it takes a little bit to fully rebuild these cells with new data. When new, this PCM was very advanced for its time. These engines and fuel delivery systems were considered to be the "high technology" of the time.

EDIT: Just double checked my scanner. On these auto-x-ray scanners they show up as...

Left & right intergrator. (fuel intergrator or INT)
Left & right block learn. (BLM's)
Block learn cell. (cell number for stored data)

BLM's and INT should stay at 128 until the car reaches "closed loop". In order to reach closed loop coolant temp must be 180 degrees or higher, a 60 second time delay must have passed, and the O2 sensor much show enough movement. Only then with the PCM command closed loop. Then it will start adjusting fuel trim with BLM and INT values.

[This message has been edited by Fieroseverywhere (edited 08-03-2010).]

josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #533, 08-03-2010 02:14 PM
      Texas has a "de-lemon" law for registering an out of state car for the road. I got this car in Florida. I can title the car in my name with out passing a safety inspection. I have to drive it to an inspection station, to get a form there, to take to the court house for license plates. Drive it down the road with out plates and inspection sticker is illegal. You can't pass inspection with a Service engine soon light on. I have one, but it is just ECM memory, battery has been disconnected one. I have to let it run or drive it for the ECM to clear the code. I have had my Texas Title for 10 months or so.

Contradictions

Looks like I will be doing some 'illegal' driving around dusk or so to get my ECM happy. Back roads here I come. I Want to see how the temperature runs with the car doing 50 MPH anyway.
I found an entry on the scanner this morning that says open loop, and the fuel was rich. I'll have to look for the 'INT" messages

Thanks for the information.

Joe

I thought I would try to get something done on the back porch before it got up to 98*. I covered the head liner with some beachwood fabric. The can says to wait about 2 minuets before putting the pieces together. WRONG. when it's 95* ya gotta hustle. The adhesive looses its 'sticky' faster than when its only 80* or so. I have put these on before, and did one half at a time. About a quarter at a time is what I recommend on real hot days like today.

The two spots are sweat drops and are gone by now I hope. Yes, I see the 'Boo-Boo' right over the drivers door.

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 08-03-2010).]

Fieroseverywhere (caalon777@hotmail.com) MSG #534, 08-03-2010 04:43 PM
      The "keep alive memory reset" will not keep the check engine light on. It is a code that is stored but does not light the dash light. If your light is on full time you have another issue. On my scanner I think I have to arrow right to see the rests of the codes. Can't remember right now and don't have any codes to check to verify.

Also, you do not have to wait for the PCM to clear the codes. You can do it right from your scanner. With the exception of the memory reset code that is. I can't clear that one no matter what I try. Try clearing them first and see if your dash light doesn't turn off. If its an issue it will come back on in a few second to a minute depending on the problem. Here is a list of codes for the 4.x engines...
http://www.cadillacforums.c...des-4-x-engines.html
If the #52 is the first one that pops up then your other code must be higher like #53-#98. Those higher number ones tend to be intermittant codes and may have already been fixed.

Come to think of it, Does your light ever turn off? It should come on for a few seconds when the key is turned on. Then it should go off. It will do the same after startup also.

The "loop status" line on the scanner that says "open loop" will change to "closed loop" when the proper conditions have been met. You can pretty much bet it will run rich in open loop because the PCM is working off a preset fuel/timing table at that point.

[This message has been edited by Fieroseverywhere (edited 08-03-2010).]

josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #535, 08-03-2010 06:53 PM
      I will try the code scroll thing right now . Be right back.

Ok I have a codes 53 and 65 also, E65 - Cruise Servo Position Sensor Signal Problem. I don't know if that is the one that is throwing the light or not. I don't have cruise on my car. But I know the Caddie did.

I unplugged my head temp sensor. My temperature light is out now. I am gonna cut and re connect the two wires and see if that corrects the problem.

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 08-03-2010).]

Fieroseverywhere (caalon777@hotmail.com) MSG #536, 08-04-2010 10:32 AM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by josef644:

I will try the code scroll thing right now . Be right back.

Ok I have a codes 53 and 65 also, E65 - Cruise Servo Position Sensor Signal Problem. I don't know if that is the one that is throwing the light or not. I don't have cruise on my car. But I know the Caddie did.

I unplugged my head temp sensor. My temperature light is out now. I am gonna cut and re connect the two wires and see if that corrects the problem.



I'm not sure if the cruise code will keep the light on either. I've never had cruise with mine. Chip programming turned off the codes for cruise entirely. Looking at the diagrams here you may be able to jumper PCM pins B3 & B4 to fool the PCM into thinking the servo is fine. I can't be positive so you may want to check with some people that have solved this problem before trying.

#53 will deffinately set the light. Once the signal is reconnected this code should move to memory turning off the light. Try clearing it and see if it comes back. If it does you have an issue with either the distributor connector or one of those 5 wires at the PCM. If it doesn't come back you probably already fixed it. Probably just a loose wire if anything.

Head temp sensor could be wired backwards. Sounds like your thinking that also. When the temp is high enough it should ground out D3 of the c500 lighting the dash light. If you have done the temp gauge/light fix listed on fierosails.com D3 may or may not be the right pin depending on how you did the fix. When I did mine I switched C2 & D3 at the C500, then switched the 2 pins at the gauge cluster. If you switched at the sender instead of the c500 yours may be slightly different.

Found the other codes!! One step closer Joe.

[This message has been edited by Fieroseverywhere (edited 08-04-2010).]

josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #537, 08-04-2010 11:19 AM
      Oops, I wrote 53, it was supposed to be E52. So just forget the 53. I know all about the 52. I lost it once after I let the car idle for about 20 minutes in the garage.

When I did my temperature gauge pegging fix I did it at the ingition switch connector, and the speedo connector as described by "TinMan" at the Michigan Fiero Club.

One year ago today my 88 Coupe was pushed into the garage to start on its engine swap. Today I can back it out under its own power.

5:00pm and it's 104* on my back porch, no idea what the heat index is

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 08-04-2010).]

Fieroseverywhere (caalon777@hotmail.com) MSG #538, 08-04-2010 07:57 PM
      According to the service manual E65 should NOT set a light. Are you sure there are no other codes?

Per the service manual regarding E65 specifically...

Circuit Description:
Code E65 will detect a cruise control servo position sensor shorted to ground. The cruise position sensor is a variable inductance sensor whose inductance changes with servo position. Code E65sets when the PCM detects a low voltage indicating a short to ground in the cruise servo position sensor circuit.

Test Conditions:
Tested continuously.

Failure Condition:
Servo position 6.3% or less for 1 second. (I'm guessing compared to VSS signal)

Actions taken:
Disable cuise control. No service telltale.

If you need I can scan these 2 pages in tomorrow for you to look at yourself. There is a long diagnostic checklist but they are a PITA to read because we don't use the onboard scanning system. I've had some practice so I can figure it out. In a fiero wihtout cruise we have to check PCM B3 & B4 with a multimeter. B4 should provide the 5V signal and B3 accepts it (minus changes from servo coil for cars with cruise).

To me it sounds like the PCM is looking for a 5V signal at those wires (B3 & B4). Should be able to loop these wires together and eliminate your code. The PCM is assuming there is a short to ground because it is not seeing voltage on B3.

[This message has been edited by Fieroseverywhere (edited 08-04-2010).]

josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #539, 08-04-2010 08:09 PM
      B3 and B4 will do. No I don't need the scan yet. I tried to arrow over some more and those were the only two codes displsped.

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 08-04-2010).]

Fieroseverywhere (caalon777@hotmail.com) MSG #540, 08-04-2010 08:25 PM
      Excellant. Well this should eliminate your E65. E52 will go away on its own. If your light is still on you may want to double check the wiring for the SES light. PCM A10 should connect to C203 pin "C". The PCM grounds A10 to turn on the light. If its grounded anywhere else your light wont turn off. Good luck Joe. Hopefully you get this sorted soon so you can enjoy your car. Later.

Oh. I was wrong about E53. Apparently that won't set a light either. Not that it matters much for you but I wanted to correct that anyway. I'm going to scan the error code page in tomorrow. There is a bunch of good info on it.

[This message has been edited by Fieroseverywhere (edited 08-04-2010).]

josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #541, 08-04-2010 09:26 PM
      Well all of this has been working correctly, untill I put it in gear for the first time the other day.

josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #542, 08-07-2010 01:22 PM
      I drove the car out on the back road this morning after adding 2 gallons of 'Super' unleaded fuel. 3rd and 4th gear solenoids are engaging just fine. I am not sure if the torque converter is going into lock up yet. I need to get it on a smooth road to get it upto about 60 or so and wait for the 'lock up' feel. I have no tags on the car yet, so that is sorta risky.

I am gonna start on switching out the injectors in the morning early. The car runs real good and has almost 80 LBs of oil pressure driving down the road. Battery is charging just over 13 volts. Temperature was just 189.5* while playing up and down the highway.

I still am confused about the SES light staying on. If I unplug the scanner and start the car the SES light comes on. plug in the scanner and after a boot, scan and display the codes, it just has a 52, and a 65. Neither should make the light come and stay on.

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 08-07-2010).]

josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #543, 08-08-2010 11:30 AM
      I went out at 8Am and removed the fuel rails and the old injectors.




Underneath the throttle plates:


I used a 1/4" drill bit with my fingers and removed that crud. I then used a shop vac to suck out the pieces. If you do this and decide to blow air threw there, some of the stuff will come out of the forward hole, so watch out to keep it out of your eyes. Ask me how I know:




I removed the EGR valve. I used compressed air and the air comes out threw the rectangle hole. This was easy. I should have done this the first time I had the throttle body off of the car.
Just knock the crud loose with a drill bit, then blow and clean it out with air, and a shop vacuum. When I used air in the rectangle hole it came out of both of the two holes in the center of the throttle bores. The rectangle hole is on the drivers side of the engine.

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 08-08-2010).]

Fieroseverywhere (caalon777@hotmail.com) MSG #544, 08-09-2010 10:40 AM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by josef644:

Underneath the throttle plates:


I used a 1/4" drill bit with my fingers and removed that crud. I then used a shop vac to suck out the pieces. If you do this and decide to blow air threw there, some of the stuff will come out of the forward hole, so watch out to keep it out of your eyes. Ask me how I know:


Ugh. Been there myself. That stuff stings too!!

I'm a bit confused about your light also. I want to check the diagrams again and see if I can see a solution.

[This message has been edited by Fieroseverywhere (edited 08-09-2010).]

josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #545, 08-09-2010 12:24 PM
      Finished up installing the new injectors this morning. I went to NAPA to get a new EGR gasket to have all of that finished before installing the rails and injectors.

Going on the rails.


Back on the engine:


Here is a shot of the EGR solenoid, There are two outs for plugging the EGR. One has the metal retainer , and the other doesn't. I forgot which one is supposed to connect to the EGR.



Anybody know if it makes any difference , and do I need to block the other one off or something?

I gotta say that my miss is gone and this engine runs fantastic. The car idles a few hundred RPM higher than it used to. The exhaust smell is different also. That was the fisrt thing I noticed after I started it up in the garage. I took it for a quick 2 mile trip in the neighborhood. It's like it has a V8 in it now, and not just a V6. The difference is amazing.

I GOT the 'GRINNS' now. When the wife gets home she's gonna ask me what I'm smillin about. Ain't gonna tell her !!!!

Did I say this is NEEEEET ?

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 08-09-2010).]

josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #546, 08-09-2010 08:45 PM
      I started going threw my old photos I had posted in this thread, and found this one. It told me most of what I needed to know. I am still not sure what the second nipple is for.



Fieroseverywhere (caalon777@hotmail.com) MSG #547, 08-10-2010 09:51 AM
      I think the second one is for cruise. Can't remember now. I use the same one for EGR and have the second one capped. Be sure to use a silicone cap. Rubber didn't last long for me.

I've been driving mine a bunch lately. Today it felt like the clutch finallly fully seated in. What a difference. I've got the same grin again!

[This message has been edited by Fieroseverywhere (edited 08-10-2010).]

josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #548, 08-10-2010 10:41 AM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by Fieroseverywhere:

I think the second one is for cruise. Can't remember now. I use the same one for EGR and have the second one capped. Be sure to use a silicone cap. Rubber didn't last long for me.

I've been driving mine a bunch lately. Today it felt like the clutch finallly fully seated in. What a difference. I've got the same grin again!



Better n Viagra


josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #549, 08-12-2010 12:39 PM
      I installed new bulbs in all of the parking light sockets for new illumination and function. I now have all of the parking lamps, turn signals, headlights, wipers, horn and license plate bulbs working. I am gonna get me a One Day License Tag for a trip to the inspection station one day this next week. $5.00 for one day.

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 08-12-2010).]

josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #550, 08-18-2010 12:27 PM
      I removed the passenger side rocker moulding and quarter panel this morning. I was trying to get access to the expansion tank. I can't see any mounting bolts. I am thinking that I am gonna have to remove the rear section to replace this tank. I wanted to hook it back up to the car. It's just wasting space the way it is now. That would also be a good time to repaint the rear roof section.


I removed the driver side quarter panel .

Gonna repaint the two quarter panels before putting them back on the car.

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 08-19-2010).]

josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #551, 08-22-2010 02:42 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by Fieroseverywhere:

To me it sounds like the PCM is looking for a 5V signal at those wires (B3 & B4). Should be able to loop these wires together and eliminate your code. The PCM is assuming there is a short to ground because it is not seeing voltage on B3.



I connected B3 and B4 as FEW suggested. I have no codes with just a quick scan without the engine running just now. I will put it back on the ground and see what happens here some time this week.

102* outside I have no idea what the heat index is.


josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #552, 08-23-2010 05:03 PM
      Got my new air duct off of the UPS truck today. Just laying on the engine:


I am going to see MstangsBware Wednesday to get a complete V6 air breather set up.

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 08-23-2010).]

josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #553, 08-26-2010 07:15 AM
      Got home late . I got all of the parts I need to use to put the expansion tank back in operation. I have all of the V6 air breather set up. I also acquired a nice set of 88 Formula rims, a nice parking brake handle and the forward parking brake cable. A few assorted screws and plastic trim pieces. I have lots of things to do today.

Later

My car, as most all do , has the V6 air filter mounting standoffs on the driver side metal wheel wells . I just went out to install the V6 air can mounting bracket. A PO has butchered up the fuel filler pipe and it's hoses. The hose and pipes are radiator hose and exhaust pipes. This com blob er ation is smack dab in the air filter mountings way. I have contacted a friend to see about getting a factory 88 style setup he has on a parts car. I will make a temporary mount so I can go ahead and get the air breather mounted and working today.

Went and picked up a filter for the new breather can. Cleaned it all up and painted it a gloss black I am thinking the paint is for sheets, as my one coat paint job is still wet two hours later. I am wondering how long I have had this can of paint in the garage? 20 Years should still be OK !!!!!!!!

Went to the Tax office and got me a 15 day permit.

I was in O'Rileys this afternoon just looking for ideas. I found a 3" outside id, 3" inside id coupler maybe 5" long.. $3.00. The large end fits perfect in to the V6 breather can. With a little smoothing up I am thinking the 85 Camaro duct will connect on the small end. So the duct would go from the Caddie air horn, threw the Caddie oval rubber coupler, to the Camaro duct to the V6 air can. Almost perfect.
Caddie Oval to the Camaro duct:

Three inch coupler:

Large end in the breather can:

All connected up:


I think this will work out. The local muffler shop here is closed for a hot summer vacation, If they were open I could get anything I wanted made up from them, maybe a small upwards bend etc. 33 miles to the next closest muffler shop. Add some black 3M trim adhesive, three pop rivets and a little black paint. You would never see it as added into the equation. I'll set it on the engine and take a picture in the morning after I am finished mowing.

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 08-26-2010).]

josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #554, 08-27-2010 03:26 PM
      On the engine and all hooked up:


I drove around my neighbor hood a few times this morning to get the engine up to 195*. I was then gonna get my safety inspection over with and ran into a snag. I got out of the cat to untangle the shoulder belt and smelled gas. I have a fuel line leaking. It is just a slow drip but I don't want to drive it like this. The drip is over the rear exhaust manifold. I will try and fix the leak in the morning. Already 96* here.

I had a code 47 today. Serial Data communication issue. I took Fieroseverywhere's advise and tied E3 and E5 together . Codes gone. I have a code 65 for the Cruise control . I tied B3 and B4 together. Code is still there, and I am not able to clear it with my scanner. I am gonna disconnect the battery and see if it comes back after a few minuets.

Disconnecting the battery didn't stop the code 65.

Fixed fuel leak.

I am still having my SES light come and go off at it's own pace. I have been watching when it comes on and out. If I do a scan with the engine running, then put my scanner on 'monitor' the light goes out, and it will show just a code 65

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 08-27-2010).]

josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #555, 08-29-2010 08:29 PM
      A big fire Friday night a block away from me burned down the telephone lines. So no internet for a few days.
Going for my State Inspection Monday morning.

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 08-29-2010).]

josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #556, 08-31-2010 12:45 PM
      I was able to get my car inspection and license plates yesterday.

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 09-06-2010).]

josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #557, 09-01-2010 03:24 PM
      I removed the old expansion tank, and got new 1/4" and 5/16" hose for adding in the metal lines.

I had my wife hold the passenger window button down, and I pushed down on the glass. We were able to get it all the way down. I am gonna start on changing out the window motor pretty quick

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 09-06-2010).]

josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #558, 09-02-2010 01:38 PM
      Removed the old home designed fuel filler hose and pipes



Mounted the expansion tank. Removed the butchered metal line that goes to the charcoal canister from the car. Removed the battery so I can see behind and below it while I am installing the expansion tank hose and lines.

I removed my tires from the two rear 87 GT wheels to swap out with Poe next Wednesday. Removed the old fuel vapor lines from my car. Cut the hole in to the metal below the battery tray area. I had used metal from an 84 car to replace the butchered pieces from the speaker box install. The expansion tank metal lines will pass threw that area now.

Ran the line form the expansion tank to the charcoal canister and remounted the canister to the shock tower. I painted these parts a few days ago with semi gloss black. Ran the metal line from the expansion tank to the fuel tank. I am all good to go here now. I just need the 88 fuel filler pipe and hoses.

Expansion tank painted. Hung up to dry overnight.

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 09-05-2010).]

josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #559, 09-05-2010 11:45 AM
      Painted and mounted.

The upper right fastener that is behind the sail panel


Fiero Thomas just did these for me:

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 09-06-2010).]

katatak MSG #560, 09-08-2010 12:02 AM
      Go Joe Go!

Looking good joe. That upper mount bolt on the expansion tank is a fun one huh! I had to tackle that one on the XTC when i first got it. I still have scars to show for it (mostly mental scars) - lol. I like the cold air setup too. I did not realize how much difference fresh air makes till I changed over to the decklid scoop/intake on the XTC. It runs so much better and the fuel mileage is up as well. Keep up the great work.

Pat


josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #561, 09-08-2010 08:20 AM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by katatak:

Go Joe Go!

Looking good joe. That upper mount bolt on the expansion tank is a fun one huh! I had to tackle that one on the XTC when i first got it. I still have scars to show for it (mostly mental scars) - lol. I like the cold air setup too. I did not realize how much difference fresh air makes till I changed over to the decklid scoop/intake on the XTC. It runs so much better and the fuel mileage is up as well. Keep up the great work.

Pat


If you are talking about the one I have pictured, I just used a 10mm socket on a swivel with a 1/4" ratchet to brreak it loose. Then a 10mm open end wrench to walk it out of the body. Wasn't bad at all. I slotted the tank there and started the bolt from underneath before putting in the tank. Slipped the bolt in the slot, and tightened from the top side as pictured. The rear fastner is simple.

And The Lord said 'Let there be Cold Air' and he was pleased !!!!


josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #562, 09-09-2010 11:11 AM
      I was able to get a good fuel filler pipe and a few other small items I needed from MstangsBeware yesterday. He's hard to beat, and a real nice guy. I'll get this in my car over the weekend.


josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #563, 09-13-2010 03:58 PM
      This morning I spent some "Quality time" with my Fiero fishing the fuel filler pipe into the hole in the frame, and up into the rear body. I loved this job !!! I had purchased new hose to replace the old ones that connect the expansion tank in to the rest of the car. All new hoses and clamps. I had a Direct TV tech coming this morning and had to quit and clean up to wait for him. At 1:00pm I was finished with the Direct TV tech. To hot in the garage now so I will wit until the am and finish up this little job.

I have discovered a 'wet' spot on my right rear brake where the hose attaches to the caliper. MC was a bit low. Cleaned this with lacquer thinner. I will hit the brake a few times and watch for a return of the wet.


josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #564, 09-14-2010 07:12 PM
      Finished up the fuel filler hose and pipe install this mornng before work.

Welded up the nice hole I had cut into the air filter mount/brace. I had made rthe hole so I could mount the air filter for my State inspection.
Fit the piece of metal into the area lerft out by the PO for the speaker boxes.

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 09-15-2010).]

josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #565, 09-16-2010 10:30 AM
      I finished mounting the sheet metal that was missing around the fuel filler pipe this morning. painted all, and remounted the air breather.

and


I have the firewall heat shield off of the car. I am gonna add some metal to the part that looks like someone took a pair of metal shears to, the upper right corner.

I am gonna remove the forward parking brake cable to switch it out with a nice one I got from MstangsBeware. I also scored a parking brake handle in real good condition. Mine has the plastic cracked and busted up.

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 09-16-2010).]

josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #566, 09-17-2010 10:57 AM
      Worked on the CAI this morning. 11 inches of 3" exhaust pipe. I had to take a hammer to it where it passes underneath the fuel filler piping.

and


josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #567, 09-18-2010 08:13 PM
      I had to go to Houston today, and located this at O'Riley's Auto Parts.

It is 3" and fit perfect into both rubber ends. I removed the metal exhaust pipe I had installed: It keeps its shape.


I was unhappy with the exhaust pipe rubbing the fuel filler pipe.

I am finished here with this now

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 09-18-2010).]

josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #568, 09-19-2010 12:09 PM
      I masked off the two rear wheels and painted them with Rustoleum Matte Black Wheel Paint. They both sorta looked like this one:


and both painted


Tape removed and left 6b hours in the 97* Texas sun for baking
.


N3M3S1S (n3m3s1s.357@gmail.com) MSG #569, 09-19-2010 12:30 PM
      Wheels look good so far. Did you prep sand them at all or just spray them down? And are you going to refinish the lip at all or just polish the hell out of it?

josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #570, 09-19-2010 12:49 PM
      I used liquid sandpaper from Lowe's. It's hard to get into all of those holes with sand paper. I am gonna just keep the edges like they are for now. I want to get about a hundred miles on this swap before I start wrapping up the wiring harness. I have only driven it around 30 miles since it had been drivable. I am then gonna remove all of the body pieces for an off body paint job.

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 09-19-2010).]

josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #571, 09-20-2010 01:51 PM
      Had the rear tires mounted on the rims. Disconnected the parking brake cables from the forward cable. I am gonna remove and replace the forward cable and the handle first up in the morning.

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 09-23-2010).]

josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #572, 09-21-2010 11:20 AM
      Removed the drivers seat, foot trim piece and removed the parking brake handle and cable. Replaced the handle and cable. This cable is real nice , and the adjustment needed to work the parking brake is about half of the amount needed for the old cable. I stopped at about half way, and checked the handle. I had it to tight and need to add some slack. Pads were dragging the rotors.

Had a bit of lunch and went back out to install the foot trim piece and the drivers seat. Removed the lock parts off of the deck lid. I will be taking it to Greenville to swap out with a smooth one from MstangsBeware tomorrow.

Went back out and installed the passenger side quarter panel. Put the battery back in the car and reconnected the cables. Turned the key and she fired right up. I'll add water in the morning and purge the coolant system.

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 09-22-2010).]

josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #573, 09-23-2010 10:05 AM
      Plunder from yesterdays trip to see MstangsBeware. All bolt hole threads are nice. Good shape, just faded Fiero red. Got back home last night at 8:00pm

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 09-23-2010).]

josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #574, 09-24-2010 12:48 PM
      84-86 cars do not have the extra fuel lines that the 87-88's have because of the expansion tank. But the connector for the fuel tank harness is in this proximity.

When I got my 4.9 up in the car and had it running , I had gotten underneath the car for some reason. I saw how close the forward exhaust manifold was the the fuel lines and electrical connectors from around the center of the car to the passenger side. The factory made a heat shield for the lower parts of the car and upwards a bit on the drivers side. The metal lines that run to the expansion tank on the right side of the car are only a few inches from the exhaust manifold.


There is also one metal fuel vapor line that runs from the expansion tank to the left side of the car to the charcoal canister. This line has a rubber hose joining the two halves togeather. I was not real happy with this and thought of a way to block the heat from these lines and areas.
Along side and bent to the 'Z' shape:


What I did was take a piece of scrap metal I had cut from the trunk when I cut it out of the car. About 9" X 14" . I used a pair of vice grips to bend a lip over, then a hammer to flatten it out. I had a nice edge all the way around now. After installing the factory heat shield again I bent the fabbed piece like a 'Z'. I raised it underneath the car and marked where I wanted it to be mounted. Dropped the heat shield once more and set the new piece where I had marked. Drilled two holes.
Raised up on the firewall. I needed to locate a few extra bolts:

pretty good shot mounted up:

Painted and bent to the shape I wanted it when mounted up:

I thought about just using pop rivets, but this way I have access to the fuel tank harness connector behind it by just removing a few fasteners. This all would be super easy to do before the engine is raised up in the engine bay

I am gonna pull the factory piece back off of the car and add one more fastener above the left side mounting bolt. I'll get a shot of it after I have it all back on the car.

Bolted togeather and all painted:

mounted on the firewall:

and

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 09-24-2010).]

josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #575, 09-26-2010 12:14 PM
      I removed the two power window switches today and took them apart for cleaning. I need to get some dielectric grease before I put them all the way back togeather.
I painted the rockers Matt black, but I don't like the way they look. I am gonna remove the rockers and add the flat black.


I had a set out of an 84 that I took apart first for experience. After cleaning the right side one I put it back in the car to test it out. My passenger side glass moves under its own power now. Super slow, but it is working.

This car has around 200K miles on it that I know about. Last mileage on carfax is 197K, the speedometer I replaced had over 300K on it. I am thinking that I need to get new morors for both doors. Even 200K is a lot of miles on the car, and trips up and down for the windows.

Just ordered two new window motors from RockAuto, $50 shipped. Dorman kits

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 09-26-2010).]

josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #576, 09-27-2010 05:58 PM
      I removed the inner door panel to access the drivers door power window motor. After cleaning and lubing the window switches, they still move in a very slow manor. I have ordered two new power window motors from Rock Auto yesterday.

After removing the inner panned I removed the plastic that a PO had used instead of the paper barrier that is supposed to be here. I removed the small chanel piece that is bolted to the inside of the door frame. and some of the parts of the power door locks. I wasn't aware that I had power door locks until today. And they work, well sorta, as the drivers side will unlock. The right door works both lock and unlock.

After disconnecting every thing as explained in the book, I needed to raise the glass up all the way and block it in the up position. The handle of my largest Phillips screw driver inserted at the bevel of the glass:

inserted at the rear of the door:

If you have power door locks, you will need to remove the lock solenoid first as it is in the way big time. In these two spaces:
Lower hole

and upper hole.:After removing the rivets remove the motor with the scissor assembly threw this hole.

And out:


This was fun, NOT.

Got this today:

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 09-27-2010).]

josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #577, 09-28-2010 07:44 PM
      Window motors arrived. I'll be installing one tomorrow morning. Dorman distributes "Made in China". I wouldn't have bought these if i had known they were Chinese made. It did come with a nice set of mounting hardware, all nuts and bolts and the mounting plate.


josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #578, 09-29-2010 03:14 PM
      I installed the drivers side motor this morning. It wasn't to bad. I learned the ins and outs of doing these. I am gonna do the passenger side door in the AM. It was pretty neat to see the glass move up and down quickly, as it has always been in slow motion before.

The 5 of white circles indicate where the bolts are needed to replace drilled out rivets. The left two are bolts that are removed for removal of the channel.


Thinking about doing a step by step power window motor replacement guide. I took pictures as I was putting it back togeather. I wish I had been able to find one before I did this.


Alex4mula (torres_a@hotmail.com) MSG #579, 09-29-2010 04:17 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by josef644:

..
Thinking about doing a step by step power window motor replacement guide. I took pictures as I was putting it back togeather. I wish I had been able to find one before I did this.


Would appreciate a lot! I may need to do this too. Just started troubleshooting a window that doesn't go up and goes down VERY slowly


josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #580, 09-29-2010 04:49 PM
      Ok, I'll put a 'How to Replace a Power Window Motor' up in Tech tomorrow after I finish doing my other door. I have some suggestions to make this a bit easier for others who are needing to do this.

I printed me a diagram of the power door locks on my car. I went out and did a test on the lock 'motor'. It works fine in lock and unlock. The drivers side lock switch is bad. That was good news as the 'motor cost around $50.00 new. The lock switch was just $6.00

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 09-29-2010).]

josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #581, 09-30-2010 02:49 PM
      How to replace a power window motor guide

http://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum2/HTML/111836.html

Did the passenger door window motor. Purchased some 1/4" bolts with plastic lock nuts for the power door lock hardware. Got some plastic sheeting to replace the trash bag moisture barrier installed by a PO

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 10-01-2010).]

josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #582, 10-01-2010 12:35 PM
      I finished the passenger side door this morning. Waiting on a new power door lock switch and the round white plastic up stop for the drivers side door.


White plastic up stop arrived in this afternoons mail. Installed already. I will replace the inner door panel tomorrow after I get home from mowing.

Installed the drivers door inner panel. Still waiting on the power door lock switch.

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 10-02-2010).]

josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #583, 10-02-2010 07:02 PM
      I got this on E Bay just now, $25.00 shipped. Has a compass and auto dimming


My power lock switch came in todays mail. Installed it in the car.

Installed the two power window switch in the mounting plate, and that plate onto the console. Also the door handle bezel onto the drivers door.

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 10-03-2010).]

josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #584, 10-03-2010 05:55 PM
      Went out in the garage during half time and removed this piece. The nipple for the heater return is leaking:

the leak

Gonna find me a shop that can weld stainless steel one day this week.

Ordered some clear coat.

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 10-04-2010).]

josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #585, 10-08-2010 05:07 PM
      I am having a problem with the wires that connect to the EMC. I was gonna install the console part that covers the ECM. Once in place the engine would not run. Cranks but will not start. Removed the piece again and all is well again. Starts right up. Replaced it and once again and No Go situation. Started wiggling the connectors with the engine running, and sometimes it will stop the engine. Nothing I have been able to pin point as the "Evil Gremlin" yet.

Ran a scan, and found:
Intermittent MAT Problem
Park/Neutral Problem
Low Fuel Pump Voltage

Bumped the wiring with my elbow just now when running the scan. The engine started to die, then recovered as I moved my elbow away from the wiring.

Looks to me like the green 16 pin connector E/F would be the culprit here. It has Transmission pins C and A at F 7 & 8, Fuel pump relay power at F 1 and the MAT signal at F16.
I removed the green plug and re connected it back in. No change. These codes were not here before today. This is the only place that the MAT is connected.

Any thoughts?

My interior looked real nice with the console installed. Mr Mike seats look wonderful with the interior complete.


Got this in the mail today. Gentex 177 auto dimming and compass, $17.00 on E Bay:


If you decide to get a Gentex 177 on E Bay, the plug in connector is nice, But no necessary. You can remove any old pin out of a computer Motherboard plug in, remove the plastic and connect it to the mirror. They are the perfect size for the Gentex pins. Looking from the back side of the mirror top side up, number one is first on the left, and the numbers get larger from there. Ignore the wire colors, as the are never the same. The auto manufacturers often build the connector into their harness and used which ever color they wanted to. My # 1 wire was yellow.
Here is a plug in connector for a Compaq that had died an untimely death:

PIN 1 = PINK = POWER = +12 volts*
PIN 2 = BLACK = CHASSIS, GROUND*
PIN 3 = LIGHT GREEN = BACKUP LIGHTS*
If not using the backup feature, connect this to ground otherwise auto dim will not function properly.
PIN 4 = GRAY = TO AUTO DIM OUTSIDE MIRROR
PIN 5 = PINK = TO AUTO DIM OUTSIDE MIRROR
PIN 6 = DARK GREEN/WHITE = TEMP SENSOR**

PIN 7 = BLACK/WHITE = TEMP SENSOR: (*required; **required if you have a temp display)

----- Original Message -----

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 10-18-2010).]

josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #586, 10-09-2010 09:03 PM
      I purchased a 3M kit for polishing the headlights on the Elantra. $18.00 at Wal-Mart

I did both headlight today, and have enough of the kit left to do the tail lights on my 88 in the morning. This 3M kit works real good and is easy as pie. A before and after shot of the wife's car:

and after

This headlight is so clean you can't see the front layer in the bottom photo. This took about 10 minuets using my electric drill.

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 10-09-2010).]

josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #587, 10-10-2010 01:13 PM
      I did my tail lights this morning. About 10 minuets each side. The came out great.
First pass with the P500 pad.

Right side finished. You can see the trees outside in the reflection.

and the left side:


I have done two headlights that were real bad, and two ugly tail lights. I have enough left in the package to do four more easy. This 3M product will do ten lenses easy.

Neighbor came by while I was doing then last one. He advised to add a coat of good wax to prevent further UV clouding and oxidation.

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 10-10-2010).]

josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #588, 10-14-2010 07:17 PM
      Trying to fix the electrical problem I discovered on the 8th, in the ECM connector area. This has been real fun. I will post the fix when I find the evil one.

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 10-14-2010).]

katatak MSG #589, 10-16-2010 11:30 PM
      Hey Joe - just spent the last half hour catching up. You are maknig a lot of progress! First, I am impressed with your Power Window Motor work. I have yet to tackle that project! I want to put power windows in my Formula - I have all the parts to do it - just been "scared" to do it. I thin I'll try and tackle it. I am also impressed with your head light tail light restoration - I always blew those kits off as a bunch of hooey. They look great - another project I need to tackle on my V8 Coupe. The car is looking better and better.

P.S. I recieved those "Formula" decals today - they look great - thanks again!

Pat



josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #590, 10-17-2010 10:51 AM
      Thanks for the purchase. The funds will disappear into my 88 here. If I was close I would get those power window motors in for you. You could watch and take photos.

I need to go to town one day this week and get some heat shrink. I have used the last of what I had here re-routing some of the wires. I don't use butt crimp connectors on anything.

I haven't touched the car in two days. I did put some the black plastic covering on, 50%, of the engine harness to make it a bit more attractive.

My biggest obstruction now is funds. We have 8 grandchildren, and have to look out for Santa before there is any excess funds for the Coupe. I got one of those automated camera tickets, and it couldn't have come at a worse time of the year. $100.00 in the toilet.

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 10-18-2010).]

Tony Kania MSG #591, 10-18-2010 12:15 AM
      I have not poked my head into this thread lately. Very nice work! It is so very gratifying to do it yourself.

josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #592, 10-18-2010 09:37 AM
      Thanks Tony. As of today 6016 views. 2500 while it was in General Chat before it was moved to CZ are not shown.


josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #593, 10-19-2010 01:27 PM
      I think I have located the electrical problem. I am loosing power at C 203 "B". This is the power supply for the fuel pump. it is supposed to be hot at all times. I left the dome lights on yesterday, and have the charger on the battery right now.

josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #594, 10-24-2010 02:26 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by josef644:

Went out in the garage during half time and removed this piece. The nipple for the heater return is leaking:

the leak

Gonna find me a shop that can weld stainless steel one day this week.



I removed all of the above again after having it welded up. Still leaks. I got a 24 inch piece of 88 return side pipe, with the nipple for the heater return, in the mail from Mstangsbeware a few days ago. I cut off the leaking part, and used a small ball peen hammer to put a small amount of flair on the extreme ends.
New piece

Flaired ends:

Old leaking piece:


I'll get all of these back on the car tomorrow and burp the cooling system once more.


When I was working on the car a few days ago I tried the headdlights to make sure that they still worked OK. This started a cycle of dead battery, and low to almost a dead battery . After unplugging the two headdlights motors, I don't hear any more of the clickety clicking that I hadn't noticed before. So I hooked the battery back up, and will get a reading tomorrow AM.

Lots to do tomorrow.

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 10-24-2010).]

josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #595, 10-25-2010 08:31 PM
      I am really frustrated with this car. I was trying to find the reason that the engine would not run when the console was in the car. Thought I had it located. BUT now I am having a problem with the battery going dead.

I do not know if this is related or not. Traced some of this to the headlight motors. I get a click from both light when I connect the neg battery cable. Unplug these and the drain is still at .50 amp. The battery looses about one half volt overnight when the cables are connected. Unplugged the head light switch to test it, and the roller knob for the instrument light brightness detached it self from the mounting bezel. Glue just cut loose.

My meter would not work in the 10 amp protected mode. So I borrowed one from a neighbor. Blew the fuse this evening in this borrowed one one. I am gonna go to Livingston tomorrow to try and get some new small 10 amp fuses. I was able to get a new 10 amp auto type fuse in mine, but it reads 4.25amps draw not even hooked up to anything. I think mine is just old and undependable.

I just wanted the console installed and got all of this to boot.

Burned the meat on the Q pit this evening. Whole day has turned to Ship!

Enjoyed a nice baked potato, mushrooms and salad though. Might just quit eating meat !!!!!!

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 10-25-2010).]

josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #596, 10-28-2010 12:13 PM
      I have narrowed the battery drain down to the BAT fuse circuits. This is the radio memory, courtesy lights, lighter and horn relay feed. I have a suspicion that the Vibe radio is mashing and causing a problem where it touches the harness at its rear.

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 10-28-2010).]

josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #597, 10-29-2010 01:40 PM
      I found that my Vibe Radio is causing the battery drain. I removed it from the car. Back to work on the car.

Ordered 4 sections of 48" pieces of clear 1/8" heat shrink. I am gonna remove my harness and make a new one that looks like it wasn't made by a kindergarden student.

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 10-30-2010).]

josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #598, 10-30-2010 03:20 PM
      I removed the wiring harness out of the car this morning for re building in a clean logical manner. I have decided to clean up the mess at the ECM before I go any further on anything else. I ordered 16 foot of heat shrink from McMaster-Carr, about $10.00 shipped
I want mine to look like this picture I stole from M_M's wiring thread


I am going down the line on each ECM connector marking the loose ends for reconnecting. If a wire stays inside the cabin , like speedo or VATS bypass, I am pulling them all to the dash side of the connector. I am gonna insert the green first, lay out the wires, then the top black, then the lower black one.

Green one ready for reinstall


josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #599, 10-31-2010 04:02 PM
      Removed the Deville radio from my S-15 GMC this morning, and have put the Delco that came in it back in the dash. I had used an adapter to fit the Deville radio, and one for the Vibe radio. Unplugged it from my GMC. I just need to remove the pins from the two and insert them into the proper holes in the connector. All the wires are marked on the connectors.

I finished my two black ECM connnectors during the Cowboys Football Game, and did the C203 connector. I am ready as soon as my heat shrink gets here.

Pinned the Radio connectors, and hooked up my radio. I will do a amperage draw test on it tomorrow.

Amp draw is so small that it does not even register on my meter. I trashed the Deville radio in favor of a Chevy truck one that I had . It sounded much better and the RF spearker would not work with the Deville radio in the car.

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 11-12-2010).]

josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #600, 11-03-2010 06:10 PM
      I have the whole harness on my kitchen table, making it neat and removing excess wire from sensor connections. I hope to be finished up with this tomorrow.
I have about 1/2 of this now: Picture stolen from M_M's wiring thread.

This harness does not include the C500. I am thinking his is a stick shift also. I will have extra wires for the transmission, neutral safety switch and connectors
I am gonna post a picture here of my progress tomorrow.

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 11-03-2010).]

josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #601, 11-04-2010 07:36 PM
      Here is a pic of my progress on my harness. I still need to blend the two relays, and the C203 in to the harness. I will attach the seven wires to the C500, into the rest of this, after it is in the car. There are 4 wires from the ECM to the transmission Park Neutral switch also. It is still attached to my C500.

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 11-04-2010).]

josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #602, 11-05-2010 08:01 PM
      I didn't get much work done with my harness today, The wife was rear ended on the highway, and her car totaled out. She just got a good case of Whup Lash. A new Dodge 1/2 ton truck hit her Elantra in the rear, bounced off to hit a guard rail, then into on coming traffic where it was stopped in its tracks by Dodge Diesel with Monster Mudder Tires.

josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #603, 11-08-2010 05:44 PM
      Got these in the mail today.


I plan working on the Coupe tomorrow. I had been dealing with the wife's car being totaled in an accident last Friday most of the day today.


katatak MSG #604, 11-09-2010 11:16 PM
      Hope all is well with your Wife Joe!

Your harness is looking good. I wish I had the patience to do my own harnesses. What's the plan for those cool Emblems? Where will you be displaying them?

Pat

[This message has been edited by katatak (edited 11-09-2010).]

josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #605, 11-10-2010 09:20 AM
      Wife's just bruised up a bit, and sorta sore. We are hearing that sometimes an injury will not manifest itself for a few months. So we will have to wait and see.


About where the blue tape is placed. After I paint the car.


Lowered the car off of the blocks this morning after a parking brake adjustment. Back on the floor, once more. Added water to the coolant system. I want to get this running again one day this week.

We were able to get the rental car from the other drivers insurance company for the wife today. So things are starting to settle down here on the home front.

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 11-10-2010).]

josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #606, 11-14-2010 07:58 PM
      I have finished rebuilding the harness today, except for the C500 part. I will join it togeather with the rest on the engine. Maybe tomorrow. I'll get a picture of the monstrosity before taking it to the garage.


josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #607, 11-15-2010 02:17 PM
      Here is the ready revised edition, except for the C500 parts.


Got this draped on the engine this afternoon. Plugged in a lot of the connectors. I will work on adding the C500 tomorrow. I would very much like to take a spin in my car tomorrow.

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 11-15-2010).]

josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #608, 11-16-2010 04:46 PM
      Here is a shot of my revised edition harness. I had to cut the ALDL wires and add 3 inches, as they were to short. This is so much neater than before.
Before:

After:

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 11-16-2010).]

katatak MSG #609, 11-16-2010 04:50 PM
      Looks very nice Joe!

josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #610, 11-16-2010 05:09 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by katatak:

Looks very nice Joe!


Yes, but will it run? Thanks Pat. I am gonna try fo finish this up tomorrow, for a quick trip around the block.


josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #611, 11-19-2010 08:05 AM
      Going to look at this car in the morning. Maybe bring my 88's sister home to Texas.


josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #612, 11-20-2010 06:09 PM
      Yellow Formula was wrecked last night at 8pm. It will not be coming to Texas.

katatak MSG #613, 11-20-2010 10:49 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by josef644:

Yellow Formula was wrecked last night at 8pm. It will not be coming to Texas.


Aw.........

Was'nt meant to be Joe!

Pat


josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #614, 11-21-2010 10:08 PM
      The owner called me Friday evening. The kid across the street from him backed into it with a large truck. The pole bumper went threw the windshield, and damaged the drivers door a bit. Maybe a few other things. I just lost interest in it at that point. Oh well, back to working on my car tomorrow morning. We spent the weekend in New Orleans, La.

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 11-21-2010).]

josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #615, 12-13-2010 07:48 PM
      I haven't done much out on the Coupe for a while. I removed the harness a while for a rebuild and started putting it back on the engine. I had made some of the connectors to short, and a few to long again. I took my side cutters and removed all the plug in connectors from the car. I tagged each and took a picture of each for re installation. I boxed it all up and off to Injection Technology's it went . I got my harness this past Friday. Spent Saturday with the North Texas Fiero Club. I was able to look threw the harness yesterday and was able to talk to Katatak in El Paso about the routing of the harness. He sent me a few pictures to clarify the way he laid it all out on his engine.

I was stumped by the Alternator connections. The connectors were all tagged. One was tagged in correctly. Also I had sent them the 10 gauge wire that mounts on the rear of the alternator, and then goes to the 12+ block underneath the C500. This was not returned with my harness, and has disappeared from the assembly room at 'IT' in Arkansas. I built me a new 10 Gauge wire to feed the alternator this afternoon. I had sent them the correct Oil Pressure gauge connector, and coolant sensor connector. Both of these were replaced with something else. So I have had to purchase new connectors for the coolant sensor/gauge feed, and a new 88 Fiero oil pressure sending unit.

The harness basically comes in two parts, the C500 and the ECM harnesses. There is a one wire connection that comes apart where the ECM runs the coolant fan. This is routed threw the C500, hence the cross over. I am going to add the correct coolant connector tomorrow, and add a two wire disconnect to it so these two harnesses are still removable separate from each other.

There are no instructions as to how this all was laid out on the engine when it was built, so you have to figure it all out by your self or ask someone as I did. It looks real clean and neat, but I still have a bad taste in my mouth by the incorrect marking of connectors and the switch out of the connectors I had marked and sent.

I will start connecting the harnesses tomorrow.

I have had a small leak on the forward brake line from the MC to the equalizer valve. I think I have stopped the leak today. I was able to get the pipe tightened down some more. Enough that there was no more turn left. Cleaned it all and will see what happens there. Refilled the MC and cleaned the old brake fluid off of the frame rail underneath.

Lots to do tomorrorw.

I received my raido from Mike OHIO a few days ago. I want to get it installed some time this week also. Picture stolen from his listing in the Mall.

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 12-13-2010).]

josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #616, 12-14-2010 02:14 PM
      Installed the harness today. My OXY sensor was about 6" to short, so I will add some length tomorrow. I have replaced the connector for the temperature gauge to match my engine and added a disconnect to unplug the temperature gauge lead from the ECM leads. After I do the OXY sensor I will add the battery tomorrow. Maybe a ride.

The brake line fitting is as dry as one could wish for today. I'll call it fixed after a road drive one day this week.

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 12-14-2010).]

katatak MSG #617, 12-14-2010 08:28 PM
      Sounds like you have it whipped Joe!. I hear you on the "bad taste" thing. I really hate it when you spend good money for something and it shows up wrong! Guess that's why we strive to do "everything" ourselves.

Pat



josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #618, 12-15-2010 04:17 PM
      Good day today. I inserted the necessary length of wire for the OXY sensor. I made a flat piece of metal to connect the two lugs of the power distribution block underneath the C500. This wasn't returned to me from 'IT'. Mounted the ALDL to the console. Noticed that there is not a lead in position 'G'. That should be the fuel pump powered up spot.

Attached the C500 connector to the car. Installed the battery.

I was going to raise the car up and attach the purple started wire, and noticed that my car still has this wire attached. It comes straight out of the Neutral /Park switch. I didn't have to remove it. So if I used this lead I would be bypassing the safety switch. I am just gonna keep what I have, and hope it will still crank to start up.

I did notice that where the harness plugs in to the N/P switch, it is yellow coming in , and purple coming out. There isn't a purple wire in the transmission part of that connector. So the 'IT' purple lead is dead anyway. No way the start signal could get threw to the starter with their harness this way. I called 'IT' about this and the ALDL 'G'. I got another "Sorry Joe".
Go Figure.

I have to connect the throttle cable and power brake vacuum hose back up. I have a few more wires to attach. The AC lead, and the red wire that was marked alternator, that needs to be connected to 12V+ somewhere. A few tie straps to attach to keep everything orderly and free from hot burns etc.

Brake line is still dry.

Later
Joe

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 12-15-2010).]

katatak MSG #619, 12-16-2010 12:54 AM
      Man Joe. Sorry to hear you are having problems with "IT". I bought mine through the Fiero Factory - it's made by IT but maybe they pay a little closer attention to the quality when they are building it for thier big customer? The only issue I had was that the fan runs constantly? Hope she cranks and fires.

Pat



josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #620, 12-16-2010 03:10 PM
      Pat we just do the best we can. Sometimes that is good enough.

Wonderful news today. It is alive again.

I replaced the brake hose and a few of the other items I had left to do. I also enlarged the hole in the plastic pass threw for the firewall and installed it on the firewall. Turned the key and NADA no start signal. I used a piece if wire to jump across to the starter lead and it turned over, but would not run. I tried some gas down the throttle plated, and NADA again. Pulled the 12+ to the distributor, and the metal center was pushed back out of the plastic connector part. Removed the plastic part and plugged in the metal connector. Fired right off with my jumper.

Went to the other side of the car and pierced the yellow lead to the P/N switch at the C500, and then jumped it there. Fired right up. So I am not getting a start signal from the C500. This all worked fine until the 'IT' redo. I am not gonna blame them unit I have figured out the exact cause of this. I will get this figured out tomorrow. We are supposed to get up to 55 tomorrow. Good day for a ride.

Later
Joe

Went back outside for a little trouble shooting. The start signal is pinned in socket 'A4' on their C500. My car is wired 'E2" for the start signal. I will call them in the morning to see how to remove the metal pin out of 'A4', to re pin into 'E2". In all fairness I have determined that these 88 cars were wired in one of these sockets,or the other. And of course mine was pinned in the incorrect socket.

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 12-16-2010).]

josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #621, 12-16-2010 08:47 PM
      I have switched the pin into the new socket 'E2'. I will finish with the C500 connectors tomorrow morning.

I found a good write up on removing the pins from the C500. Bloozberry's post in this thread. There is a white plastic "terminal position assurance" (TPA) piece that needs to be removed before it will come out. Took me about 5 minuets to do the socket switch out.
http://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum2/HTML/099987.html

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 12-16-2010).]

josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #622, 12-17-2010 07:54 PM
      Well the old Fiero Two Step today. One step forward, two backwards.

Re connected everything, and would not start up. Re connected the VATS bypass and got it going again. My AutoXray 5000 will not read the ECM. Worked fine before. I drove the car today about 3-4 miles. It is starting off in second gear, I am thinking it is in the 'Limp Home' mode. I will have to check grounds tomorrow, and the sockets in connector 'A' for the proper wiring for the ALDL.

Engine is idling around 1800 RPM Idled fine before this harness change.

ALDL deceased

Running in 'Limp Home' mode.

Pulled the three ECM harnesses and verified the 4 ECM grounds, and the feed for the ALDL socket M, ground connection for socket A and the timing disable in socket B

Pulled and re seated the ECM Prom with no luck on a scan

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 12-17-2010).]

josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #623, 12-19-2010 02:34 PM
      This morning I removed the ECM harness from the car and verified all wiring with my ohm meter. I found one metal pin left unseated. It went 'click' when I pushed it all the way in to the socket. Everything else was golden.

I am starting to think that my ECM has gone south.


josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #624, 12-20-2010 06:46 PM
      I went and got two ECM's fro 91 Deville's today. I will get one in the car and get it connected up tomorrorw and see what gives.

-Joe


josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #625, 12-21-2010 07:16 PM
      Took a day off and helped a needy family today. Back tomorrorw.

Put the harness back on the engine, and installed one of the ECM's I got two dayas ago. ECM scans, and runs the car. Seems like It is still missing the brute force that was there before the harness switch out.

I am threw with this project untill after the Holidays are over.


Merry Christmas to all of you good folks here at PFF
-Joe

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 12-22-2010).]

josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #626, 12-31-2010 02:59 PM
      Grand children are all back home with their parents. Quite at last.

I replaced the key lock on my deck lid with the one that matches my doors. Installed a deck lid back on the car. Hasn't been one there since August 2009. Looks sorta neat.


Stickpony is making me a chip for my ECM

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 12-31-2010).]

josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #627, 01-06-2011 10:16 AM
      Talked to Stickpony last night. The chip is on the way, so maybe Satuerday I will be able to take a ride to see if all is well in 'Fiero Land' again.

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 01-07-2011).]

katatak MSG #628, 01-08-2011 10:04 PM
      Ok Joe, It's Saturday night - need an update. Really curious how the Chip is going to work! Thinking I might do the same.

Pat


josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #629, 01-08-2011 10:16 PM
      Pat I was hoping that it would be here today, but not to be. I am sure it will be here Monday as it left Ft Lauderdale, Fl on 01-06-11 at 7:00pm. Looking forward to a nice ride around town. I am thinking positive here.

We had a beautiful sunset yesterday, like the one, one of you guys posted a while back. I didn't have a camera with me.

Gonna be COLD here the next few days. Down to around 25 at night for the next three nights.
-Joe

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 01-09-2011).]

josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #630, 01-11-2011 02:37 PM
      This is a re post of my ride today as posted in my 4.9 Limp Mode thread in Tech today:

Well Good News at last. Limp Mode is gone. Stickpony's chip cured all the ill's. I have the famous 4.9 monster launch from stop again,. All four gears are engaging, as well as the TCC is locking up. Talk about TORQUE!!!!!!!

I did run into a bit of a snag, but I do not think Sticpony's chip has anything to do with it. I have installed a second EPROM I got in the mail yesterday, and the 'hitch' is still there.

"HITCH" After doing the idle learn procedure I went for a drive. Drove to get fuel first. About 3 miles or so away I could feel a surge coming and going with the engine. I noticed that the scanner was showing -34.6*F. The normal temperature would come back, and the surge would disappear. After adding 4 gallons to the tank, I pulled the coolant sensor connector and added it back to the sensor. I then drove around 10 miles or so and all was fine again. Until it started the -34.6*f reading again.

Back home I started wiggling the wires attempting to find a place that would duplicate the problem. I couldn't make it happen. I am planning on ordering a new AC Delco coolant sensor and AC Delco TPS connector. If I have to I will add new wire all the way from the ECM plugs to the sensor.

I am just a few inches short of calling this swap finished.

Had a real nice ride today in the car otherwise. Maybe 20 miles or so.

Stickpony's chip solved most of my problems. No way his chip is involved in this last hurdle to clear.

-Joe

4:25pm:
 
quote
Originally posted by josef644:

Well it got up to 42*F outside a while ago so I went back out to the garage. I am thinking I have located and fixed the break in the circuit. I had added a new connector to the harness for the coolant sensor. Injection Technology had used a connector for the Cadillac,(no gauge), so I added the one for my engine and the gauge as Mickey_Moose posted. One of the solder joints I had made was bad. I put new solder joints and heat shrink on all three wires. I can't get the -34.6*F to come back again.

Went for a nice 30 mile trip. Smooth as glass. Got into closed loop mode. 1800 RPM is 70 MPH. I am gonna calibrate the TPS and re do the idle learn tomorrow. All systems are GO right now.


YE HAW!!!!!!!

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 01-11-2011).]

katatak MSG #631, 01-12-2011 05:35 PM
      Great news Joe! I can't answer intelegently about the coolant sensor. But I am sure you are on the right track. Glad to hear the car is driving again - Gotta love that 4.9 torque!

Pat



josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #632, 01-12-2011 05:44 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by katatak:

Great news Joe! I can't answer intelligently about the coolant sensor. But I am sure you are on the right track. Glad to hear the car is driving again - Gotta love that 4.9 torque!

Pat


Found and repaired a bad connection on one of my solder joints. All is Golden today.

Ya might want to think about having Stickpony' do you a chip. Solves a lot of problems .

I was running only 1800 RPM at 70 MPH yesterday afternoon after I fixed the coolant wiring snag.

Tomorrow I plan on using some duct tape to hold down the ALDL wire, and the lighter socket wires before mounting the rear console inside the car. I can then add the shift surround and the automatic shifter bezel and the ashtrays. I have a fine leather automatic shift knob that will finally get put into the car.

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 01-12-2011).]

BigGuyTinyCar (timcat99@q.com) MSG #633, 01-14-2011 03:42 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by josef644:

I received my raido from Mike OHIO a few days ago. I want to get it installed some time this week also. Picture stolen from his listing in the Mall.





Is this radio installation a plug and play type of deal or does is require modification?
My car has an aftermarket stereo and I can't stand tiny little buttons and lack of a clock.



katatak MSG #634, 01-14-2011 04:13 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by BigGuyTinyCar:


Is this radio installation a plug and play type of deal or does is require modification?
My car has an aftermarket stereo and I can't stand tiny little buttons and lack of a clock.


Not sure about the plug an play part but you can pick these up on Flea Bay with an MP# jack installed. Joe can tell you all about the wiring and installation.

Pat


josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #635, 01-14-2011 08:02 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by BigGuyTinyCar:


Is this radio installation a plug and play type of deal or does is require modification?
My car has an aftermarket stereo and I can't stand tiny little buttons and lack of a clock.


Plug and Play not quite. I had wired my car to accept the newer style GM connector. There are adapters that you can purchase to make it plug and Play. You will also need the adapter for the antenna as the one in the Fiero is a bit to large to plug in to the antenna hole in the rear of the radio. You can go to http://replacementradios.co..._261&products_id=166 and purchase everything you need to make it work in your Fiero. The owner is a Fiero guy and will be happy to help you with any questions.

Good Luck with your new Ride
-Joe Crawford
Texas


BigGuyTinyCar (timcat99@q.com) MSG #636, 01-14-2011 09:15 PM
      Thanks. It may be a moot point. I discovered my car's stereo does indeed have a clock. Just had to get out my microscope
to see the button to show it. I can probably live with small buttons as long as it has a clock.


josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #637, 01-15-2011 12:44 PM
      Mounted the console parts this am, so I am through with the interior until I remove the front roof section in March for replacement and painting.

Sweet !






mmeyer86gt/gtp did the nice leather shift handle for me.

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 01-28-2011).]

josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #638, 01-23-2011 02:52 PM
      I took a nice 102 mile trip around Lake Livingston today. This is my first trip more than 10 miles away from my home. All went smooth. The car starts good and performs excellent. Pretty well stays at 192*-196* F while driving around. I am not real happy about the noise level inside the car when driving. I guess quiet is a trade off for torque. I was also put off a bit by the speed of the fuel gauge dropping as I drove.

Time for some Football

-Joe


josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #639, 01-28-2011 10:39 PM
      Removed the speedo cluster and reconnected the necessary wires for the SES light to work. I had cut the wire before I took it in for the first inspection. I should have fixed this the same day. Now I have the EPROM working correctly, so the SES light is not on and off blinking like a turn signal.

josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #640, 01-29-2011 05:18 PM
      About 30 effortless miles today. Rain back sometime tomorrow. My seatbelt light is on all the time now while driving. I have never seen this before. I need to snap the seatbelt and see if the light goes out.

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 01-29-2011).]

josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #641, 02-01-2011 11:56 AM
      It is supposed to get down to 21* here tonight, and 19* tomorrow night. I went outside and drained the coolant system, and added one & 2/3 gallons of green Prestone antifreeze. I have an air bubble in it a the temperature went right up to 259 and I have no heat. I will let it cool down and raise the rear up about a foot and go threw the burping again. I had a good working cooling system, and a working heater before today.

katatak MSG #642, 02-01-2011 11:06 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by josef644:

It is supposed to get down to 21* here tonight, and 19* tomorrow night. I went outside and drained the coolant system, and added one & 2/3 gallons of green Prestone antifreeze. I have an air bubble in it a the temperature went right up to 259 and I have no heat. I will let it cool down and raise the rear up about a foot and go threw the burping again. I had a good working cooling system, and a working heater before today.


Hey Joe,

The weather is tough on these Fiero's. I drove the Chop Top around front this evening and when I got out and walked around it, it was "bleeding" green. I think the rad hose was so cold, it would not seal. I was able to put 4 full turns on the hose clamp! Supposed to be a record low of 8* here tomorrow night. 20 and snowing out there right now.

Pat


josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #643, 02-02-2011 10:08 AM
      9am here and it is only 21* supposed to be back in the low 70's by the weekend.

I took a drop light and put it underneath the car yesterday afternoon. The temperature was 34 underneath the engine at 930pm. I am thinking everything will be OK in the freezing department.

Keep your poiwder dry, and warm.
-joe


josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #644, 02-07-2011 07:31 PM
      Drove about 50 miles here today. This is a real fun car to drive now. All is well, heater works fine from about 140* on the scanner. I estimate I am getting about 27 MPG. I got a SES light on the way back home. The car went out of closed loop and a Code 13. Sensor or circuit? After clearing the code, it came back after about 6 -7 minuets. While the code was clear, it went back into closed loop.

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 02-07-2011).]

Fieroseverywhere (caalon777@hotmail.com) MSG #645, 02-07-2011 09:03 PM
      That doesn't happen very often. Its warmer here in Oregon.

E13 = O2 sensor.

A loss of this signal will deffinately put back to open loop. Which one you running?


josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #646, 02-08-2011 08:38 AM
      I don't kow which one is in there. I never did mess with it. I just checked the wire connector yesterday. I am gonna order me a new Denso O2 sensor from Rock Auto and install it.

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 02-08-2011).]

Fieroseverywhere (caalon777@hotmail.com) MSG #647, 02-08-2011 07:33 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by josef644:

I don't kow which one is in there. I never did mess with it. I just checked the wire connector yesterday. I am gonna order me a new Denso O2 sensor from Rock Auto and install it.



Nooooooooooooooo. Rockauto doesn't have any!! I order 2 from them recently. Both were Bosch sensors in Delco boxes. I then had them check their stock in the warehouse. The entire case they have are the same way. They are all Bosch sensors.

Order the Walker or Denso instead. They work just as well as a true delco but are better priced. Both are WAY better then the bosch you would end up getting.


BigGuyTinyCar (timcat99@q.com) MSG #648, 02-09-2011 01:32 AM
      Just so you know, Autozone carries the Denso O2 sensor (part #234-2001) for $22.99 which is
only $2 more than RockAuto. Unless you're ordering other stuff to make the shipping
worth while, you'll probably be better off at Autozone (plus you'll get another $20 credit
toward your $20 gift card...assuming your in the Autozone frequent shopper program ).

[This message has been edited by BigGuyTinyCar (edited 02-09-2011).]

josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #649, 02-09-2011 10:51 AM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by Fieroseverywhere:


Nooooooooooooooo. Rockauto doesn't have any!! I order 2 from them recently. Both were Bosch sensors in Delco boxes. I then had them check their stock in the warehouse. The entire case they have are the same way. They are all Bosch sensors.

Order the Walker or Denso instead. They work just as well as a true delco but are better priced. Both are WAY better then the bosch you would end up getting.


I was gonna get the DENSO one from them. They sell it, and every other brand made I guess.
-joe


Fieroseverywhere (caalon777@hotmail.com) MSG #650, 02-10-2011 08:51 PM
      Oops. Read that as Delco. Denso, Delco, whatever. Sorry Joe!

josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #651, 02-11-2011 10:59 AM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by Fieroseverywhere:

Oops. Read that as Delco. Denso, Delco, whatever. Sorry Joe!


Couldn't find a DENSO 234-2001 local, so I ordered one from RockAuto.com. It's on the way


josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #652, 02-12-2011 09:22 PM
      Went to Livingston in the Coupe this morning. About 15 miles each way. I had the scanner connected up while on the trip. The SES light came on two times. One time Ii was sorta glancing at the scanner when it lost the O2 sensor readings. They dropped down to nothing, then came back a few seconds later. I was not able to get in to 'Closed Loop' today. Engine temperature was up around 189- 195*F most of the trip. New O2 sensor will be here Monday.

josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #653, 02-13-2011 02:14 PM
      I replaced the headlight module this morning. I had removed it a few months ago when I was having problems with my battery going dead. Took the O2 sensor connector apart, and re connected it. My Code 13 is gone now. I went into CLOSED LOOP at about 162 degrees. Short 10 mile trip this morning.

Found antifreeze dripping out of my heater core on some papers I had in the floor boards.


Heater core ordered.

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 02-13-2011).]

katatak MSG #654, 02-13-2011 09:38 PM
      Just when you think you have it figured out, something else shows up. Keep after it Joe!

josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #655, 02-13-2011 09:57 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by katatak:

Just when you think you have it figured out, something else shows up. Keep after it Joe!


Never ending battle for 'Truth, Justice, and the American Way.

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 02-13-2011).]

josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #656, 02-14-2011 05:12 PM
      My 'Wonderful World' of "Fiero" today included a heater hose clamp letting loose and the loss of about 1 1/2 gallons of anti freeze on the rear of the engine and transmission. I must of seen it in my rear view mirror just as it came loose. Nothing was damaged except for my pocket book. I called a neighbor to come and get me about 3 miles from home. 30 minuets later I was back on the way home. Garage stinks now.

Heater core and O2 sensor are both here. Might get to install them tomorrow.

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 02-15-2011).]

josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #657, 02-17-2011 07:30 PM
      Got my old heater core removed today. Ran ou tof time as I had other things I needed to get done before dark. I'll get the new one in tomorrorw. Installed a new inside door handle bezel for my power door lock button would be in the correct place.

josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #658, 02-18-2011 02:04 PM
      Went out this morning and finished installing the heater core. The one I got from RockAuto was a Spectra brand. Autozone also sells this brand for about two times the money. It is about 7/16" shorter then the one I removed. The hardest part was keeping it all the way back where the metal retaining strap went around the core's end without slipping off.


While finishing up I noticed this:

Always things to repair/replace when one owns a Fiero!!!
-joe

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 02-18-2011).]

josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #659, 02-19-2011 04:54 PM
      Burped the cooling system this morning and installed the new O2 Denso sensor. Took a nice 20 mile trip around the area. Temperature is 78* F , and the coolant temperature stayed a bit higher at 197* , or in that area. I got up to 207* once an a short traffic stoppage coming back in my sub division. I turned on the AC, and the temperature dropped back to 197 pretty quickly.

I am thinking about starting to remove some of the body panels for refininhing.


katatak MSG #660, 02-19-2011 09:29 PM
      Wow Joe! That door hinge looks pretty bad. If you can't find one locally, let me know. I have a few laying around in the shed. Yours for the shipping.

Pat


josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #661, 02-19-2011 10:09 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by katatak:

Wow Joe! That door hinge looks pretty bad. If you can't find one locally, let me know. I have a few laying around in the shed. Yours for the shipping.

Pat


Pat, I need the upper passenger side. The closest to me is Mustangsbware, and he is about 200 miles away. I guess I could consider him local here in Texas. LOL I'll PM you my address, and give me your PayPal so I can tighten you up. This will not be to bad to switch out while I have the fenders and door skins off of the car for painting next month.

All the rest of the hinges were still in good shape. The door's half of this one is still in good shape. Go figure?
-joe

I am gonna do a oil and filter change in the morning before a nice trip to AutoZone for a new fan belt to keep in the car.

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 02-19-2011).]

josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #662, 02-20-2011 07:36 PM
      Changed the oil this morning. I used a 10W30 instead of the recommended 5W whatever. The oil pressure was still real low after the coolant temperature is up around 200 or so. I took it on a 100 mile trip since it was a beautiful Texas day. The oil light would come on at stop signs and traffic lights. It would bump around the far left side in 30mph in town traffic. When I got home I replace the 88 V6 type of oil sending unit with the 86 Duke style I had on it originally. The needle never gets in the red zone even when idling at 625 rpm and at normal temperature.

I will go to O'Reilly's tomorrow and get me an old fashion style gauge and see which one of the sending units is correct. If I have the real oil pressure as is displayed my the 88 sending unit I am gonna jerk this out f my care and find me a 2.5 with an automatic to get back on the road prertty quickly.

Ended up driving 140 miles around the home area today in my Coupe. This is about 300 miles in the past 10 days or so. This car is a blast to drive. The 88 handles so much better than my silver 86 Coupe.


katatak MSG #663, 02-21-2011 12:09 AM
      Got the hinge ready to go Joe. It will need bushings and a new pin. Should be able to get them in the Help section. No mail tomorrow - I'll send it Tuesday AM.

Pat


josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #664, 02-21-2011 04:17 PM
      I got me a Sun Pro gauge this morning. The old fashioned type. After a 15 mile drive to get up to normal coolant temperature I pulled over and stopped. I have 0 oil pressure at 600 rpm, driving at 30 mph I have 8-10 lbs of oil pressure. I have 18 lbs at 50 mph, and near 30 at 65 mph. This engine is DEAD. I am gonna be holding a big 4.9 parts swap SALE soon. This is at 600 rpm warm engine

showing the coolant temperature:


After spending some time thinking about this swap I have decided to cut my losses and remove this 4.9. I will install a T125 automatic and a 2.8. I will not put another dime in to this 4.9 swap. I will remove the 4.9 , it's 4T60E, and all of the necessary swap parts. I will put them up for sale in the Mall. I just want to get this over with and back to driving this great little car. This is one of the best handling little cars I have ever driven and I can not wait to get it back on the road.

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 02-21-2011).]

BigGuyTinyCar (timcat99@q.com) MSG #665, 02-22-2011 07:45 PM
      Dang! What a sad ending to an awesome build thread. Sorry to hear about that Joe.

SERGE144 (ffej144@gmail.com) MSG #666, 02-23-2011 10:56 AM
      Don't give up! I admire your hard work! I'm in the midst of a 4.9 swap and I always heard about low oil pressure in these engines with no affect on the engine. My first 4.5 swap had low oil pressure but continued to run great.

I got this from a caddy forum -may be useful?

Originally Posted by buckknakid
Don't know if this will help, but here is something that I learned about my 91 deville. Maybe it will help you here.
When I test drove it, the owner stated that it just had an oil change. During the drive, I noticed that the oil pressure warning light would flicker, and be on steady when idleing. Since the car had 198k on it, this was very alarming. I would not buy it, and the owner said he would take it to the shop. He took it to a caddy dealership, and they said it had the wrong "brand" of oil filter, I think it was a Fram. They put a GM filter on (ACDelco) and everything was okay. I test drove again, everything was fine, so I bought it. It now has 204,500 miles and 2 oil changes since.
Just thought I would pass this along, and maybe you should check the oil filter, if it got changed at the oil change (as should always be the case).
Let us all know if this is the case.
I second this post. I frequent IH Scout Bulletin Boards (I've got several) and we've found the different brand oil filters really make a difference with oil pressure, flow, and lifter clatter on start-up (which isn't an issue with your caddy). Guys have gained as much as 15 psi with a simple filter change, and AC Delco seems to be the filter that gives the most results. NAPA Gold and WIX (same filter) and Purolator are good also. There are oil filter websites, and Fram filters and their 'captive' clones (I know Quaker State and Pennzoil, don't know about Valvoline brand) have some of the lowest filtering area and some of the highest resistance of all.


josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #667, 02-23-2011 11:20 AM
      I always use Wix or AC Delco filers. She is dead. I could hear the lifters singing at idle yesterday before I took it on its final drive. Thanks for the suggestions though.
-Joe


josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #668, 02-23-2011 09:51 PM
      I just about have the 4.9 ready to drop out of the body I have sold most of the things needed to swap in a 4.9.

josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #669, 03-01-2011 04:44 PM
      Hey I been here before!!


katatak MSG #670, 03-01-2011 06:32 PM
      So what's next Joe? Maybe a 3.4? Sorry to hear your 4.9 treated you so badly!

P.S. Did that hinge show up?

[This message has been edited by katatak (edited 03-01-2011).]

josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #671, 03-01-2011 07:03 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by katatak:

So what's next Joe? Maybe a 3.4? Sorry to hear your 4.9 treated you so badly!

P.S. Did that hinge show up?



I have sold almost everything I had obtained for the 4.9 swap. The wife wasn't to happy with the exhaust leval anyway. I am gonna put a 2.8 in there for now. Might switch to a 3.4 a little later on.

Hinge was in the mail today. Thanks for the speedy service !


josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #672, 03-08-2011 10:18 AM
      Got the rear roof and upper rear fender section off of the body this morning. I am gonna get the painting done until I get a power plant and get it back in the car. I hate sanding body panels.

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 03-08-2011).]

katatak MSG #673, 03-08-2011 11:07 AM
      Color?

josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #674, 03-08-2011 01:44 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by katatak:

Color?


Winter White. Base Coat - Clear Coat.


josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #675, 03-17-2011 02:47 PM
      Found a 23K 1995 Firebird 3.4 in Houston for $425.00 today. Followed me home.


and


I will start working on installing a 3.4

THIS IS MY LAST POST ON THIS 4.9 SWAP.

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 03-17-2011).]

blakeinspace (blakeinspace@yahoo.com) MSG #676, 03-19-2011 12:01 AM
      immensly sorry to read about your trouble on this one Joe.

That seems like a good deal on a low mileage 3.4... especially if all the accesories are there.


Ruffy MSG #677, 03-30-2011 12:44 PM
      really really sad to see the 4.9 go with all the little detail you have done and items you put on it. not only that but the time you also put into it. i love your build post and started reading it when it was on page 3. keep the pics and info coming!

bigone4242 (bigone4242@aol.com) MSG #678, 03-30-2011 01:06 PM
      pm sent

mattwa (mattwa.inc@gmail.com) MSG #679, 04-01-2011 12:07 AM
      No need to be so sad, because it's actually not "going away". Well that specific 4.9 did, but I bought most all the swap parts and they will live on in a different Fiero with a different 4.9.

dj_bones (couple4request@gmail.com) MSG #680, 11-18-2015 10:07 PM
      Hello, I bought my 86 2m4 last year. it is an automatic. I saved it from the scrap yard and it has been a long journey to get it on the road. It's a nice daily driver with 150K but I need some more go. I have just bought an even rougher 84 2m6 4 speed that can't be saved. My plans were to swap the 2m6 drive into my 2m4. I have been reading up on the web and the 4.9 swap has caught my eye. My question is what would be the better swap for my 2m4 auto? and is there a step by step someplace for the 4.9 swap into my 2m4. I'm mechanically inclined but the electrical is a bit intimidating. Planning on the grand am brake upgrade and power steering. I've already done a complete LED swap and customized light system but that's still pretty basic + - and relay system. never messed with an computer in a car and the gages.

sleevePAPA MSG #681, 11-19-2015 12:47 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by dj_bones:

Hello, I bought my 86 2m4 last year. it is an automatic. I saved it from the scrap yard and it has been a long journey to get it on the road. It's a nice daily driver with 150K but I need some more go. I have just bought an even rougher 84 2m6 4 speed that can't be saved. My plans were to swap the 2m6 drive into my 2m4. I have been reading up on the web and the 4.9 swap has caught my eye. My question is what would be the better swap for my 2m4 auto? and is there a step by step someplace for the 4.9 swap into my 2m4. I'm mechanically inclined but the electrical is a bit intimidating. Planning on the grand am brake upgrade and power steering. I've already done a complete LED swap and customized light system but that's still pretty basic + - and relay system. never messed with an computer in a car and the gages.


Go ahead and start a separate thread, as this is a build thread. This way you can have your own thread to discuss plans and ask questions, and probably get more attention.



Reallybig MSG #682, 11-20-2015 08:28 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by dj_bones:

Hello, I bought my 86 2m4 last year. it is an automatic. I saved it from the scrap yard and it has been a long journey to get it on the road. It's a nice daily driver with 150K but I need some more go. I have just bought an even rougher 84 2m6 4 speed that can't be saved. My plans were to swap the 2m6 drive into my 2m4. I have been reading up on the web and the 4.9 swap has caught my eye. My question is what would be the better swap for my 2m4 auto? and is there a step by step someplace for the 4.9 swap into my 2m4. I'm mechanically inclined but the electrical is a bit intimidating. Planning on the grand am brake upgrade and power steering. I've already done a complete LED swap and customized light system but that's still pretty basic + - and relay system. never messed with an computer in a car and the gages.



I tried to do a step by step in my thread "let's replace my 88's 4cylinder with a 4.9!" ... or something like that. You'll find it in search. Buy a pre-made harness. Money well spent. Sorry to hijack.

[This message has been edited by Reallybig (edited 11-20-2015).]