Tang-Band sub-woofer upgrade
Topic started by: fierosound, Date: 12-19-2008 09:17 AM
Original thread: http://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum3/HTML/000079.html


fierosound (fierosound2@shaw.ca) MSG #1, 12-19-2008 09:17 AM
      Just part of the Indy's complete stereo makeover http://www.fiero.nl/forum/F.../HTML/000031.html#p0

How many have done or considered doing the Tang-Band sub-woofer upgrade to their factory system?

I purchased the TANG BAND W5-1138SM 5-1/4" Neodymium Subwoofer from Parts Express
http://www.parts-express.co...m-subwoofer--264-831

Here's a comparison of the Rodney's replacement sub to the larger Tang Band subwoofer


Granted, you won’t end up with monster bass that 2 12’s will give you, but the increase in bass capability over stock will be more than enough for most people and is definitely worth doing. And the best part is "everything fits" and doesn't require a huge amount of fabrication.

I started with Rodney's subwoofer speaker with a Fiero Store sub-housing that just bolts into the Fiero since it's a factory duplicate. If you have an 86 or newer, your heater box should already have the correct support bracket that supports the Convenience Center (chime box, flasher etc) as well as the sub-housing.

This picture shows how the Fiero subwoofer box is mounted. I originally sealed the box to try it out, as the port is tuned to the original subwoofer and I had Rodney's speaker.



I wasn't happy with the result, and got the Tang-Band subwoofer instead.

To mount the Tang-Band speaker, I made a mounting ring from 3/4" MFD. The edges were coated with silicone (to seal) before slipping it in and attaching it through the sides with screws. Pre-drill the holes or the MDF will split. Use the original screws. Regular wood screws are basically a wedge and will split the MDF as well.

A better choice may be to use 5/8" thick plastic cutting board material that you can buy at a Dollar Store.




I came across some information from Tim on how to tune the enclosure for this speaker.

 
quote
Originally posted by timgray:
... if you are using the Tang Band speaker, stuff the enclosure loosely with poly-fill, put a little in the port tube and cut 2" inches off the end of the port tube to tune the box perfectly to the Tang Band 5.25" subwoofer driver.

I just finished tuning up one of these to match that box. Using the port tube with a bit of the poly fill in the tube helps to reduce velocity in the tube and makes it possible for you to tune it to the enclosure and get 35% more bass from it and make it sound better. - Tim


I reinstalled the tube with this modification and it works "as advertised" - deeper bass.
I readjusted the amplifier gain to balance the system again. Thanks Tim...

The subwoofer attaches to the front. The stock grill will no longer fit, so I used the mounting ring and grill from another speaker (sanded and painted Satin Black) to protect the subwoofer.




This sub-woofer setup reportedly works well with the factory sub amplifier, just connect the speaker as you normally would.

For my system, I decided to use an Xtant 1.1i 100 watt mono amp to drive the subwoofer. The Xtant amp is 6.5" x 5.7" x 1.6" high which will fit under the passenger seat out of the way. This tiny amp really delivers and is perfect for the job. Amp specs http://www.xtant.com/archiv...oducts/xtant1.1i.cfm



Comparison of the amp size to the deck.


I purchased a Delco radio adapter harness (simplifies A LOT) to connect the new Delco to the Fiero's wiring harness. I made all my new connections in this harness so as not to modify any of the car's wiring. The NE-7V adaptor taps the signals from the front speaker wires and provides 2 RCA level outputs (left/right) that will run the subwoofer. These will connect to the adjustable PFMOD LP-1 Low Pass crossover which sends a mono signal to the Xtant subwoofer amp which then powers the subwoofer.

Amp with Low Pass filter and line output adapter wired to the radio adapter harness


NE-7V adapter http://www.davidnavone.com/adaptor_products.htm
PFMOD LP-1 crossover http://store.hlabs.com/pk4/...e.pl?view_product=26

My complete system in my Indy http://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum2/HTML/081643.html

Many thanks to Bigfieroman who did the initial research on this
http://www.fiero.nl/forum/A...090219-2-076432.html



Pyrthian (pyrthian@yahoo.com) MSG #2, 12-19-2008 10:23 AM
      I did something very simaler - was inspired by your original thread.
I went to a 6-1/2" sub in the factory housing.
used the basicly the same appraoch. made a MDF mount, was 2 layers, 1st one to fit in the enclosure, 2nd layer to mount the speaker to. so, it sticks out a 1/2" more.
I also have cut 6x9's into the rear firewall, with fiberglass enclosures.


Brastic (shanew@brastic.com) MSG #3, 12-19-2008 11:20 AM
      Because of your write up, I have built two Tang-Band / Fiero Store factory sub woofer enclosures. I agree that it does not hit like 12"s, but it gets the job done. The hardest part was cutting out the MDF to seal between the sub and the enclosure and then sealing it. My only complaint now is the price has gone up. The Tang-Band use to be $18.

fierosound (fierosound2@shaw.ca) MSG #4, 12-19-2008 11:37 AM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by Brastic:

My only complaint now is the price has gone up. The Tang-Band use to be $18.


I see that. Still worth it I think though. People who've heard my setup hear "a lot more subwoofer" than what they'd expect from a 6" speaker.

I read through all the reviews (a couple Fiero owners in there too) and only saw only one(?) bad review. Maybe he got a faulty one?? Everyone else seemed more than happy with the results in all their different applications.

[This message has been edited by fierosound (edited 12-19-2008).]

joshh44 MSG #5, 12-19-2008 12:04 PM
      my car never came with the subwoofer option when i bought it last year.
i kinda like the idea of having the subwoofer hidden.
would the subbox thing there fit under my dash even tho it never had a subwoofer?

i had a 10" woofer in the center of the car, but that got stolen not to long ago.
so my next plan was to put it behind the seat but i dont want to cut up the rear firewall.
i dont waqnt something over kill with bass eather.


82-T/A [At Work] MSG #6, 12-19-2008 01:09 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by fierosound:

How many have done or considered doing the Tang-Band sub-woofer upgrade to their factory system?

Granted, you won’t end up with monster bass that 2 12’s will give you, but the increase in bass capability over stock will be more than enough for most people and is definitely worth doing. And the best part is "everything fits" and doesn't require a huge amount of fabrication.
Many thanks to Bigfieroman who did the initial research on this http://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum2/HTML/076432.html




Nice, very slick... !



StockGT (jimjeffres@cox.net) MSG #7, 12-19-2008 01:16 PM
      Does anyone have a suggestion on a suitable amp for this factory size sub-woofer project? The Xtant 100 watt mono amp is no longer in production. Most of the amps today are way over 100 watts, the most common size being 1200 watts. I have also been looking for kit built amps in the 40 to 60 watt range.

This looks like a great upgrade project put together by Fierosound and Bigfieroman. I could get started when I find the right size amp.


fierosound (fierosound2@shaw.ca) MSG #8, 12-19-2008 03:13 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by joshh44:

my car never came with the subwoofer option when i bought it last year.
i kinda like the idea of having the subwoofer hidden.
would the subbox thing there fit under my dash even tho it never had a subwoofer?



Yup. My 84 Indy didn't have it either and why I went this route. I think it was only available on 86-88 Fieros as an option. That's why 86 an up cars MAY already have the bracket.


ohio86se (rick44314@gmail.com) MSG #9, 12-19-2008 03:33 PM
      My question is : What happens to the overhead factory sub control if you use an alternate sub amp?



Lilchief MSG #10, 12-19-2008 04:36 PM
      This is something I've been wanting to do myself. I've gotten most of the speakers except for the Tang-Band subwoofer and some cables. I'm having a hard time finding the Xtant 1.1i amp, any suggestions?



fierosound (fierosound2@shaw.ca) MSG #11, 12-19-2008 06:18 PM
      About the smallest amp I've come across is the Pyle 2-Channel 240-Watt Waterproof Marine Amplifier Model # PLMR-A120 It's about 8"L x2"H x5"W Looks like it can be bridged, but you'd be OK running just one channel anyway. The power ratings appear to be Peak Watts. RMS power is 70 watts per channel.

Cheap too http://www.allaudioexpo.com...240w_waterproof.html
Install Manual http://www.pyleaudio.com/manuals/PLMRA120.pdf

[This message has been edited by fierosound (edited 12-19-2008).]

joshh44 MSG #12, 12-19-2008 06:31 PM
     
 
quote
Yup. My 84 Indy didn't have it either and why I went this route. I think it was only available on 86-88 Fieros as an option. That's why 86 an up cars MAY already have the bracket.


my fiero is a 1986. so would that mean i would have the bracket for that subwoofer enclosure?


fierosound (fierosound2@shaw.ca) MSG #13, 12-19-2008 07:09 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by joshh44:

my fiero is a 1986. so would that mean i would have the bracket for that subwoofer enclosure?


The sub housing is mounted to the dash bracket on the right and the chime box (blue thing) bracket on the left.
If your chime box is mounted differently, you don't have the subwoofer bracket on that side.



More pics of what you're looking for here: http://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum2/HTML/085338.html

[This message has been edited by fierosound (edited 12-19-2008).]

Eau_Rouge MSG #14, 12-19-2008 07:28 PM
      I'm very happy with mine, the bass is great although just out of curiousity I'm contemplating modifying another subwoofer (Kicker 6.5 inch shallow mount subwoofer) to fit in the stock housing/location. These subs are rated at 150 watts RMS which allows a much bigger range of amplifiers and has a recommended volume of .2 to .3 cu. foot. Should work very well in the stock location.
Seems like a good alternative especially since finding an amplifier to power the tang band sub is very difficult and expensive.

Anyone else heard of these subs? They sell on ebay for $60 ea.


fierosound (fierosound2@shaw.ca) MSG #15, 12-19-2008 08:28 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by Eau_Rouge:

... allows a much bigger range of amplifiers and has a recommended volume of .2 to .3 cu. foot.



I think we calculated somewhere that the factory sub housing is about .16 cu ft and the Tang-Band subwoofer's ideal would be a slightly larger .19 cu ft enclosure, but let us know how the Kicker works out.

Amps aren't the problem as any amp can be used. What makes the Xtant ideal is that it is small and fits nicely hidden under the seat. A larger amp would need to be mounted elsewere like the back firewall or front trunk.



Eau_Rouge MSG #16, 12-19-2008 10:22 PM
      I may try it - simply from a curiousity aspect but I must re-state that I'm very, very happy with the Tang band setup as it produces more bass than the factory Bose sub system in my daily driver. My suggestion of the Kicker was due to the fact that I was under the impression that an amp that produces greater than 50 watts RMS will over power and blow the Tang Band sub.

Also, the way I adapted my tang band sub to the fiero sub enclosure, I added a 2 inch spacer and also used the tube - (capped) in order to get very close to the .19 cu. ft. recommended volume. I did a volume test when everything was done (by filling the enclosure with water) and it came to just a little over .2 cu. ft., so volume wise the Kicker would work.

Again, I may try it - I need another winter project that I can do indoors as it's to freaken cold now!


LZeitgeist (lzeitgeist@aol.com) MSG #17, 12-20-2008 10:42 AM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by ohio86se:

My question is : What happens to the overhead factory sub control if you use an alternate sub amp?



Quoted and repeated 'cuz I'm curious too...

Does the slider control still affect the amount of bass generated like it does with the OEM amp?



thefredman (sandjwelch@hotmail.com) MSG #18, 12-20-2008 11:33 AM
      I built my own in the factory location. If I ever get a digital camera I will get some pics 4 all to see. It gets the job done and gives my cars interior a warm sound if you will. Everything is very balanced. The sub is a Klipsch 6.5 " , powered by a Rockford Fosgate Punch amp. From your pictures it looks as though my sub doesn't hang down as far......anywho happy listening.

fierosound (fierosound2@shaw.ca) MSG #19, 12-20-2008 12:36 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by ohio86se:

My question is : What happens to the overhead factory sub control if you use an alternate sub amp?



The 84's never had a factory sub setup, so I don't have the slider and it's unnecessary anyway once the amp gain has been adjusted to balance the system properly.

Xanth has directions on how to make it work with an aftermarket amp here: http://fierodomain.com/content/view/288/100/



sjmaye MSG #20, 01-09-2009 01:07 PM
      I have been messing around with my factory sub system for a while. My system now appears to send sound to the speaker, but it sounds nasty. Certainly not a thump or nice base. I am a little confused of what I am reading. Will the tang band sub speaker fit in the stock subwoofer housing?

Xanth MSG #21, 01-09-2009 01:28 PM
      I have the Tang Band in a factory enclosure and think its great. I was actually thinking of making an 8" under dash box and getting a larger Tang Band speaker:

http://www.parts-express.co...m?Partnumber=264-833


Austrian Import (maximilian_ledworowski@csumb.edu) MSG #22, 01-09-2009 02:25 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by Xanth:

I have the Tang Band in a factory enclosure and think its great. I was actually thinking of making an 8" under dash box and getting a larger Tang Band speaker:

http://www.parts-express.co...m?Partnumber=264-833


Please do post build thread when you do.

I like the idea of an 8" sub down there. Some of the setups I saw look just like stock.


daveg MSG #23, 01-09-2009 03:45 PM
      I built an enclosure with 8.5" sonotube, 12" in length, yielding .33cuft, perfect for my Polk/Momo 8" sub. This mounted in the same location as the factory sub. My car is an 86 (non A/C ) and the assembly attached similarly to the sub shown...no holes needed to be drilled. This enclosure is not visible from the passenger seat.

daveg


sjmaye MSG #24, 01-09-2009 04:42 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by daveg:

I built an enclosure with 8.5" sonotube, 12" in length, yielding .33cuft, perfect for my Polk/Momo 8" sub. This mounted in the same location as the factory sub. My car is an 86 (non A/C ) and the assembly attached similarly to the sub shown...no holes needed to be drilled. This enclosure is not visible from the passenger seat.

daveg



Got any pics?


daveg MSG #25, 01-09-2009 08:22 PM
      sorry, no pics, but I did get the idea from others on the forum. Try a search, you should find the details. It was really an easy project.

Dave


fierosound (fierosound2@shaw.ca) MSG #26, 01-12-2009 04:30 PM
      ^^^

Alex4mula (torres_a@hotmail.com) MSG #27, 01-12-2009 05:27 PM
      This is a good idea but with 100w I can see the flimsy plastic enclosure flexing a lot and adding distortion. Maybe not noticeable to many but will be there for sure. Would be nice to reinforce the stock enclosure.

joeveto (jveto@fedex.com) MSG #28, 01-12-2009 09:10 PM
      I just did this to my own, using the suggestions here and from others on the forum.

http://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum2/HTML/097588.html

It sounds really nice, even when pushed hard. The bass is not as deep as it would be with a larger speaker, but for my needs, it sounds just fine.

You do make a good point, by suggesting the plastic might be an issue at higher levels. I was worried about this, and about buzzing. I'm shocked by how clean it actually is. But in no way is it as good as a quality wood enclosure. I don't hear a ton of secondary harmonics, but the sound is a bit "colored" as compared to the nice warm sound a wood enclosure can provide.

I also use a lot of poly fill to compensate for the smaller enclosure.



fierosound (fierosound2@shaw.ca) MSG #29, 01-13-2009 12:46 AM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by Alex4mula:

This is a good idea but with 100w I can see the flimsy plastic enclosure flexing a lot and adding distortion. Maybe not noticeable to many but will be there for sure. Would be nice to reinforce the stock enclosure.


Doesn't seem to be a problem - likely because it is ported. Now if it was a sealed enclosure, I could imagine it would eventually crack from flexing under pressure.



sjmaye MSG #30, 01-18-2009 04:13 AM
     

OK, I made the adapter just as you have pictured, I let the silicone dry overnight and will assemble today. I got the polyfill at WalMart. You say stuff it loosely. I guess as long is it is not packed tight I will be OK. I also cut 2" off the plastic tube. I will test it out today.

I have high hopes for this as to date my subwoofer has done nothing more than fart a couple of times.

Can someone explain something? If sealing around this mdf adapter is important why was the original metal piece in there full of air gaps? Not sealed at all. Air/sound could pass around the speaker or through the bass tube.

[This message has been edited by sjmaye (edited 01-18-2009).]

Xanth MSG #31, 01-18-2009 11:01 AM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by sjmaye:



Can someone explain something? If sealing around this mdf adapter is important why was the original metal piece in there full of air gaps? Not sealed at all. Air/sound could pass around the speaker or through the bass tube.



Had yours been taken apart previously? Mine was gasketed in that area, so the original piece was fairly sealed.


sjmaye MSG #32, 01-18-2009 03:54 PM
      The only gasket I thnk there was was around the speaker grill. Anyway, I got the t-b installed and it works great. It finally has some bass. It is subtle. I can pull the connector on and off and it definitely makes a difference.

Thanks for this upgrade.


sjmaye MSG #33, 03-18-2009 06:16 PM
      Can someone tell me where to get a speaker grill for this Tang Band upgrade subwoofer? The one I got was the wrong size and would not work. Any ideas??

Eau_Rouge MSG #34, 03-18-2009 11:39 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by sjmaye:

Can someone tell me where to get a speaker grill for this Tang Band upgrade subwoofer? The one I got was the wrong size and would not work. Any ideas??



Kenwood 5.25" speaker grills worked very well for me. No interference with the cone and pretty close to bolt on. Barely had to widen the speaker mounting holes in order for it to line up with the holes for the grill. I also cut the fingers that reach over the cone.
The grill I used is exactly the one you see as part of this speaker. Periodically you'll see grills like this for sale on ebay.

http://cgi.ebay.com/KENWOOD...ksid=p3286.m20.l1116


sjmaye MSG #35, 03-19-2009 02:13 AM
      Thanks, I will keep a look out. In the mean time does anyone know of a grill available that fits the Tang band sub in this thread?


fierosound (fierosound2@shaw.ca) MSG #36, 05-17-2009 09:09 AM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by sjmaye:

Thanks, I will keep a look out. In the mean time does anyone know of a grill available that fits the Tang band sub in this thread?


Just about any front mount 5.25" grill should work.


bowrapennocks MSG #37, 05-18-2009 06:24 PM
      Now that the Xtant 1.1i is no longer available, are there any recommendations for a 4 ohm amp? Has anyone tried Soundstream Di175.1 available at onlinecarstereo.com for $79? Any experience with that vendor?

Thanks
Jim



fierosound (fierosound2@shaw.ca) MSG #38, 05-18-2009 08:16 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by bowrapennocks:

Now that the Xtant 1.1i is no longer available, are there any recommendations for a 4 ohm amp? Has anyone tried Soundstream Di175.1 available at onlinecarstereo.com for $79? Any experience with that vendor?



The specs look OK, but I just looked at the review at onlinecarstereo.com

Mike Rotch From Lee Florida
All i gotta say is 'BOOOOOOOOOOM' this baby KICKS! I got this beast powering 4 kicker 15" 6000w RMS subs in my 72 toyota tracel and man it pushes them like no tomorrow. I've shattered glass, blown peoples ear drums, even had a little baby explode when i cranked them. BUY THIS AMP!!

I couldn't find any other reviews on this amp. All I get is all kinds of links to Russian websites.
I also could not find it listed on Soundstream's current or discontinued lists http://www.soundstream.com/manuals.htm

[This message has been edited by fierosound (edited 05-18-2009).]

Lilchief MSG #39, 05-18-2009 10:13 PM
      How bad do you want an Xtant 1.1i ? I got 6 and need to sell a few. Should be posting on Ebay soon or PM me.



carbon MSG #40, 05-20-2009 11:38 AM
      Parts Express has plenty of cheap 2 channels amps that can be bridged for around a 150W output... why couldn't you use that? It's just a matter of adjusting the gain isn't it?

fierosound (fierosound2@shaw.ca) MSG #41, 06-01-2009 04:30 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by bowrapennocks:

Now that the Xtant 1.1i is no longer available, are there any recommendations for a 4 ohm amp?



A Seller has 2 Xtant 1.1i amps on eBay http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymot...dZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW


fierosound (fierosound2@shaw.ca) MSG #42, 07-11-2009 04:03 AM
      Another Xtant on eBay. This one located in Alberta http://cgi.ebay.com/Xtant-1...7C293%3A1%7C294%3A50



fierosound (fierosound2@shaw.ca) MSG #43, 10-22-2009 01:19 PM
      Lilchief has 4 Xtant 1.1i amps up for sale http://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum4/HTML/049016.html

bowrapennocks MSG #44, 10-26-2009 08:52 AM
      I bought a Fiero store subwoofer housing and and installed the Tang Band subwoofer Fierosound suggested. Works great! I connected it directly to the rear channels of my Pioneer AVIC 700 Audio/Video/Nav System. The Pioneer is set up with multiple options for connecting a sub directly to the built in amp. The Pioneer 700 is a double din unit, which I was able to fit into my Camaro dash. I bet you could get one to fit a Fiero dash as well. BTW, the Pioneer AVIC units have their own enthusiats website (AVIC411.com). Works great, thanks.
Jim



fierosound (fierosound2@shaw.ca) MSG #45, 12-04-2009 12:27 PM
      bump

pmbrunelle (pmbrunelle@gmail.com) MSG #46, 12-05-2009 03:01 AM
      Bump & small hijack.

If you know how it's done by any chance, on an 85, is the convenience centre supposed to be attached to the heater box with a bracket or something? How is it done?


fierosound (fierosound2@shaw.ca) MSG #47, 12-05-2009 04:11 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by pmbrunelle:

If you know how it's done by any chance, on an 85, is the convenience centre supposed to be attached to the heater box with a bracket or something? How is it done?



Should be a bracket there - maybe not on 85's. I needed to get a later model cover with bracket for the heater core. Look back on page 1.

The upper one in this picture is what I managed to get a hold of and likely what you need too.

[This message has been edited by fierosound (edited 12-07-2009).]

pmbrunelle (pmbrunelle@gmail.com) MSG #48, 12-09-2009 12:20 AM
      Thanks!

fierosound (fierosound2@shaw.ca) MSG #49, 01-30-2010 12:31 PM
      <bump>

tstroud MSG #50, 02-21-2010 08:29 AM
      Since the Xtant 1.1i amps are getting hard to find, is there a good alternative?

fierosound (fierosound2@shaw.ca) MSG #51, 02-23-2010 11:43 AM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by tstroud:

Since the Xtant 1.1i amps are getting hard to find, is there a good alternative?



Don't know what others have used. Xtant 1.1i for sale here http://indianapolis.craigsl.../ele/1579809669.html



tstroud MSG #52, 02-24-2010 10:40 PM
      I got a new Xtant 2.2 on ebay for $129.00 delivered. I guess I can either just use one channel or I can bridge it and be careful with it.
It will do until I find a 1.1i and then I can move the 2.2 to my GTO project.



carbon MSG #53, 05-26-2010 12:35 PM
      On sale at Crutchfield for 59.99:

JVC KS-AX3002

65 watts RMS x 2 in stereo or
130 watts RMS x 1 in bridged mode (4-ohm stable in bridged mode)

Not discontinued or hard to find


82-T/A [At Work] MSG #54, 03-09-2011 03:56 PM
      Hey guys, just curious. Is there a reason why in the first picture the subwoofer tube has been removed and taped off?

I don't fully understand the dynamics of a ported subwoofer vs a sealed one, but just curious what difference it makes?



fierosound (fierosound2@shaw.ca) MSG #55, 03-14-2011 08:45 AM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by 82-T/A [At Work]:

Hey guys, just curious. Is there a reason why in the first picture the subwoofer tube has been removed and taped off?
I don't fully understand the dynamics of a ported subwoofer vs a sealed one, but just curious what difference it makes?



I originally sealed the box to try it out, as the port is tuned to the original subwoofer. Later I came across some information from Tim.

Originally posted by timgray:
... if you are using the Tang Band speaker as mentioned in one of the other posts, stuff it loosely with the poly fill, put a little in the port tube and cut 2" of an inch off the end of the port tube to tune the box perfectly to the Tang Band 5.25" subwoofer driver.

I just finished tuning up one of these to match that box. Using the port tube with a bit of the poly fill in the tube helps to reduce velocity in the tube and makes it possible for you to tune it to the enclosure and get 35% more bass from it and make it sound better. - Tim
.
.
I reinstalled the tube with this modification and it works "as advertised" - deeper bass.
I readjusted the amplifier gain to balance the system again. Thanks Tim...

[This message has been edited by fierosound (edited 07-18-2015).]

fierosound (fierosound2@shaw.ca) MSG #56, 03-29-2011 09:24 AM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by americasfuture2k:

just found this while looking through my latest parts express catalog...





Sounds like an ideal alternative to the hard-to-find Xtant 1.1i amp.

Kicker 100W Car Audio Mono Input Sub Amp $14.80!!


Product Description

Kicker 100W Car Audio Mono Input Sub Amp
Offered originally as a dealer installed option for a specific manufacturer's original equipment sound systems, this compact Kicker subwoofer amplifier will improve the performance of almost any stock mobile stereo. The amp's features include a mono high level input (line level inputs are not included), 100 watts RMS @ 1 ohm power output, and a 150 Hz @12 dB/octave fixed low pass filter. Includes OEM connector (not shown). Dimensions: 3-1/2" H x 6" W x 1-1/4" D

Amplifier Installation Instructions

This 100 watt subwoofer amplifier is turned on by and receives its musical signal from either the left or right speaker wires (high level). It is powered by the vehicle's factory radio and protected by the vehicle's factory radio fuse. Because most low frequency signals are applied equally to both channels (mono), only one input is required. The amplifier senses the input signal's DC offset relative to ground and should turn on when the factory radio is turned on.

The following four connections from the Kicker sub amplifier are to be made to the vehicle's factory radio harness:

1- The red wire connects to the constant +12V wire in the radio harness. The vehicle's audio system fuse will protect the subwoofer amp.
2- The black wire connects to chassis ground.
3- The solid green wire connects to either the left or right positive speaker wire (either front or rear).
4- The green/yellow wire connects to either the left or right negative speaker wire (either front or rear).

[This message has been edited by fierosound (edited 03-29-2011).]

IXSLR8 (david@kerrworks.com) MSG #57, 04-02-2011 01:59 AM
      Just bought the kicker. Will see how it goes.


fierosound (fierosound2@shaw.ca) MSG #58, 04-10-2011 11:00 AM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by IXSLR8:

Just bought the kicker. Will see how it goes.


Excellent! I'm sure we're all waiting to see how this works.


Benja MSG #59, 04-19-2011 10:10 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by LZeitgeist:


Quoted and repeated 'cuz I'm curious too...

Does the slider control still affect the amount of bass generated like it does with the OEM amp?



You can use an amp and retain the factory slider control. You can hook the sub up as you normally would from the HU, then at the sub input take the high level inputs and use a hi level to low level convertor. The low level will run to the amp, which turns it back into hi level to the sub. They are typically cheap and cheap, the sound quality suffers a little bit but on a sub you probably won't even notice.



YellowArtero (yellowartero@gmail.com) MSG #60, 06-02-2011 07:18 AM
      I just want to say thanks for the thread. I did build one and I'm really pleased with the result. The sound is quite good especially for the size of the sub. One thing I did do though that I think helps is to spray a heavy coat of truck bed liner on the inside and outside. It looks good and seems to give a little more mass to the enclosure and makes the sound less 'plasticy'.

fierosound (fierosound2@shaw.ca) MSG #61, 06-05-2011 11:54 AM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by YellowArtero:

I just want to say thanks for the thread. I did build one and I'm really pleased with the result.





 
quote
Originally posted by IXSLR8:

Just bought the kicker. Will see how it goes.





Anything more to report on this? Is it worthwhile?


jb1 (james.brown.20107@gmail.com) MSG #62, 06-05-2011 01:14 PM
      http://www.12voltnews.com/?p=23379

Pretty cool little amp , does really well on (2) 10" subs. Its only 4" x 6" an about 1.5" tall ,. 4ch be out around end of June. Mono amp available now.



IXSLR8 (david@kerrworks.com) MSG #63, 06-19-2011 02:08 AM
     
Sorry, I got sidetracked with northstar engine issues and a bunch of work priorities right now. Hope to get to it soon.


What about Bob (rherriges@sbcglobal.net) MSG #64, 07-01-2011 09:16 PM
      I also have picked up two of the Kicker amps. I was going to do the Tang sub but they are now $90 a piece from Parts Express. Has anyone tried Rodney's new sub replacement?

What would be the best way to adjust the level of the amp?


mcgavin (mcgavinz26@gmail.com) MSG #65, 07-03-2011 01:31 PM
      WhataboutBob - you must have gotten the last of those Kickers, because they are out of stock now.

YellowArtero (yellowartero@gmail.com) MSG #66, 07-10-2011 09:57 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by What about Bob:

I also have picked up two of the Kicker amps. I was going to do the Tang sub but they are now $90 a piece from Parts Express. Has anyone tried Rodney's new sub replacement?

What would be the best way to adjust the level of the amp?



I have both. I must admit that the Tang is far superior to Rodney's. However, I think Rodney's is much better than stock. Even though the price of the Tang has risen to $90+ I think it is still worth it.

John


Bengt Weil MSG #67, 07-11-2011 12:34 AM
      I just ordered a Tang Band sub from EMSpowered.com - seems they still list the W5-1138SM 5-1/4" sub at the old price of $40.95. Sure, the shipping was about $14, but even at $55 out-the-door, it's hard to beat compared to $90 everywhere else... Here's the link - http://www.emspowered.com/s...ndex&cPath=157_59_86

fierosound (fierosound2@shaw.ca) MSG #68, 07-12-2011 09:26 AM
      I read the reviews. Looks like the MR2 people are snapping these up as well.
http://www.emspowered.com/s...iews&products_id=188


mcgavin (mcgavinz26@gmail.com) MSG #69, 07-13-2011 11:47 PM
      I have Rodney's running right now with a Dual (lame) amp. After only having 2 front speakers to now having a sub in the mix, its a huge improvement. Sound quality is pretty good even at high volume, but I don't really crank the bass either. The gain on the amp is all the way down and the headunit has barely any bass boost in play. For the price, it was worth it. However, at just a little more, the Tang is sounding like the way to go.

lander MSG #70, 07-31-2011 10:33 AM
      Hello everyone, in your experience can the Tang-Band/ stock replica woofer set up as described in this thread be powered directly and simply from the head unit?

I understand it needs minimal wattage to fill out the sound. I'm trying to avoid adding another amp and its wiring (this is my first sub install.)
The HU is a higher end Kenwood, with 6 outputs (2 front, 2 back, 2 for sub) and built in sub preamp controls (cuttoffs, etc.)

It's 4 x 50 W, with a built in "Sub Woofer Reference Control Interface."

Looks like I'd have to bridge the subwoofer out channels into one for the mono sub, correct?

Thanks in advance for your advice.

L A


fierosound (fierosound2@shaw.ca) MSG #71, 08-02-2011 09:13 AM
      Kenwood model would help. I went to their website and didn't see anything with 6 powered channels.

I saw some "6-channel" units with 4-channels powered by the HU and with pre-amp subwoofer outputs - which would require an amp. for the subwoofer(s).

What does the installation manual that came with the thing say? Most show the options of how you'd connect the unit.

[This message has been edited by fierosound (edited 08-02-2011).]

lander MSG #72, 08-02-2011 10:01 AM
      The model is KDC-BT948HD

Thanks Fierosound, you are correct, there are only four powered channels.
I'll seek out a small amp for the sub...(was hoping to avoid running amp cables to the battery is all.)


fierosound (fierosound2@shaw.ca) MSG #73, 04-15-2012 12:06 PM
      BUMP

BV MotorSports (sbvincent@yahoo.com) MSG #74, 04-17-2012 01:47 AM
      Nice! I'll have to try this. I just wanty to improve my sound quality, not go BOOM BOOM! I'll have to get the replacement box from TFS but it looks like it doesn't come with the port tube. Guess I'll have to try and find one of those as well.

I wonder if any other 5 1/2 sub would work? Several came up with a quick google search.

edit, Amazon has them for $30.

http://www.amazon.com/Tang-...Woofer/dp/B000BWXWTI


Tom Slick (tom.slick@northtexasfieroclub.org) MSG #75, 04-22-2012 10:48 AM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by fierosound:


Because the tube is tuned for the stock speaker, it needs to be modified to match the new speaker's specs. Cut off 2 inches from the end. The housing is slightly undersize, so loosely stuff it and the tube with poly fiberfill (cheap at Walmart) to make it work better.


i'm considering doing this upgrade but i'm a little confused on what part you cut off. did you do the cutting where the MDF is in the pic above or was the cut on the port tube that comes out the top. please set me enlighten me before i do something stupid.

thanks...


fierosound (fierosound2@shaw.ca) MSG #76, 04-22-2012 11:47 AM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by Tom Slick:

i'm considering doing this upgrade but i'm a little confused on what part you cut off. did you do the cutting where the MDF is in the pic above or was the cut on the port tube that comes out the top. please set me enlighten me before i do something stupid.

thanks...


The end of port tube to shorten it. No modification to the box itself.



What about Bob (rherriges@sbcglobal.net) MSG #77, 04-22-2012 12:41 PM
      Fierosound,
Did you have a template for the MDF cutout? I searched but only found your 4x10 for the front speakers.
Thanks,
Bob


fierosound (fierosound2@shaw.ca) MSG #78, 04-22-2012 11:36 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by What about Bob:

Did you have a template for the MDF cutout? I searched but only found your 4x10 for the front speakers.



No template - the sub housings are too uneven.
Trace the thing on cardboard and cut it slightly smaller 'till it fits inside.

Use that for your MDF cut-out. Then make sure you center the speaker hole.
Drill pilot holes for all the screws, so you don't split the MDF.

[This message has been edited by fierosound (edited 04-27-2012).]

Tom Slick (tom.slick@northtexasfieroclub.org) MSG #79, 04-25-2012 11:16 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by fierosound:
The end of port tube to shorten it. No modification to the box itself.


thanks...
order the subwoofer can't wait to do this upgrade.

will tackle the component upgrade next


Patrick (mnofony@yahoo.com) MSG #80, 05-05-2012 07:57 PM
      Just a tad off topic (but definitely related), would someone be so kind as to post the dimensions of the factory subwoofer tube. Mine has always been missing from my '86 GT. I'd like to make a replacement one up from PVC tubing.

I found these dimensions posted in an old thread, but it's not very clear where the measurements were actually made from.

 
quote
...the tube is 9 3/4" long by 2 1/4" tall and 1 1/2" in diameter.


I've included an image here that I found in an old thread. Keeping in mind where exactly I've indicated in the picture, could someone please tell me the measurement of both "A" and "B". Thanks.

[This message has been edited by Patrick (edited 05-05-2012).]

Tom Slick (tom.slick@northtexasfieroclub.org) MSG #81, 05-06-2012 10:56 AM
      man-ol-man, where can i find a small piece of MDF to do this upgrade


i've been to both home improvement stores and the smallest sheet i could find was 2ftx4ft
way more than i'll ever need. anybody have a scrap piece laying around?

thanks


Tom Slick (tom.slick@northtexasfieroclub.org) MSG #82, 05-06-2012 10:57 AM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by Patrick:

Just a tad off topic (but definitely related), would someone be so kind as to post the dimensions of the factory subwoofer tube. Mine has always been missing from my '86 GT. I'd like to make a replacement one up from PVC tubing.

I found these dimensions posted in an old thread, but it's not very clear where the measurements were actually made from.


I've included an image here that I found in an old thread. Keeping in mind where exactly I've indicated in the picture, could someone please tell me the measurement of both "A" and "B". Thanks.





measurement A is 9.5 inches
measuremetn B is 2.5 inches


fierosound (fierosound2@shaw.ca) MSG #83, 05-06-2012 11:07 AM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by Tom Slick:

i've been to both home improvement stores and the smallest sheet i could find was 2ftx4ft
way more than i'll ever need. anybody have a scrap piece laying around?



You could use a solid heavy wood (nothing light like pine, spruce or balsa wood )

Just don't use plywood. The plys can start to separate and you'll hear a buzz that you'll never be able to find.



Tom Slick (tom.slick@northtexasfieroclub.org) MSG #84, 05-06-2012 11:53 AM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by fierosound:
You could use a solid heavy wood (nothing light like pine, spruce or balsa wood )

Just don't use plywood. The plys can start to separate and you'll hear a buzz that you'll never be able to find.


thanks...

how about the thickness of the wood?


Patrick (mnofony@yahoo.com) MSG #85, 05-06-2012 03:31 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by Tom Slick:

measurement A is 9.5 inches
measuremetn B is 2.5 inches



Thanks Tom !



fierosound (fierosound2@shaw.ca) MSG #86, 05-07-2012 12:54 AM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by Tom Slick:

how about the thickness of the wood?


High end speaker cabinets used to be made from 5/8" thick Maple, Cherry, Birch etc.
A board would probably cost more than the MDF you were looking at.

...somebody has to buy a MDF sheet, cut them into 1 foot squares (or whatever) and sell off the pieces.

[This message has been edited by fierosound (edited 05-07-2012).]

Tom Slick (tom.slick@northtexasfieroclub.org) MSG #87, 06-04-2012 11:20 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by fierosound:


High end speaker cabinets used to be made from 5/8" thick Maple, Cherry, Birch etc.
A board would probably cost more than the MDF you were looking at.

...somebody has to buy a MDF sheet, cut them into 1 foot squares (or whatever) and sell off the pieces.



Well my first attempt with MDF was NOT successful. i had the MDF all ready to go and drilled the pilot holes like mention before then when i went to screw in the screws the MDF split. Argh! I was pissed i spent a lot of time getting the MDF to the right size and it all go to sh!t in a flash.

So i learned from my mistake i did not want to go thru that again so i bought a piece of oak plank from the local building store. after spending hours getting to fit in the sub enclosure i finally had success. YAY!

i am now rock'n the TB sub and it is freaking awesome! so much better than the RD sub i had in there before.

thanks...




carbon MSG #88, 06-10-2012 09:19 PM
      Exactly what happened to me Tom... after all that time shaping the damn thing to the hole... live and learn I guess.

fierosound (fierosound2@shaw.ca) MSG #89, 06-11-2012 08:38 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by Tom Slick:

i am now rock'n the TB sub and it is freaking awesome!

thanks...



Many thanks to Bigfieroman who did the initial research on this (don't know where he went??)
http://www.fiero.nl/forum/A...090219-2-076432.html




E.Furgal MSG #90, 06-12-2012 02:46 AM
      rockford fosgate has a new line of tiny PUNCH AMPS..
http://www.rockfordfosgate....s.aspx?itemid=120464

http://www.rockfordfosgate....s.aspx?itemid=225197

http://www.rockfordfosgate....s.aspx?itemid=120465

http://www.rockfordfosgate....s.aspx?itemid=225198


Tom Slick (tom.slick@northtexasfieroclub.org) MSG #91, 06-14-2012 10:29 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by fierosound:
Many thanks to Bigfieroman who did the initial research on this (don't know where he went??)
http://www.fiero.nl/forum/A...090219-2-076432.html



thanks for the link

now i see i need bass blockers, where was this post a few days ago. lol...



fierosound (fierosound2@shaw.ca) MSG #92, 06-16-2012 09:53 AM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by Tom Slick:

now i see i need bass blockers, where was this post a few days ago. lol...



... at the bottom of my first post when I started this thread.


Tom Slick (tom.slick@northtexasfieroclub.org) MSG #93, 06-16-2012 04:29 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by fierosound:


... at the bottom of my first post when I started this thread.


Oh, guess it would help if i read the entire thread first. doh!
i didn't get that far cause i was only interested in the sub and speaker setup cause i have the factory sub, now i think i want to upgrade that next.


fierosound (fierosound2@shaw.ca) MSG #94, 06-17-2012 09:31 AM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by Tom Slick:

i didn't get that far cause i was only interested in the sub and speaker setup cause i have the factory sub, now i think i want to upgrade that next.


 
quote
Originally posted by Tom Slick:

now i see i need bass blockers,



I'd say don't bother with bass blockers unless you find the speakers are rattling at high volume on bass-y tunes. Then you need them.



Lou and Blue (mrlduet@yahoo.com) MSG #95, 01-22-2014 05:27 PM
      Hi, I just bought this

http://www.ebay.com/itm/FIE...&hash=item3389fcaf9f

But it needs a replacement speaker so I was thinking of doing the tang upgrade speaker. Which is $60 here

http://www.parts-express.co...m-subwoofer--264-831

And I'm looking into buying the CD player advertised for$120 here.

http://www.fiero.nl/forum/F...067918.html#lastpost

I would like to know if this factory amp will power the tang sub speaker enough to make a difference ,or if I should just buy the Rodney dickman sub replacement speaker here

http://rodneydickman.com/ca...h=29&products_id=134

I do like ALOT of bass!

Thanks for any advice!


fierosound (fierosound2@shaw.ca) MSG #96, 01-23-2014 09:01 AM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by Lou and Blue:

I would like to know if this factory amp will power the tang sub speaker enough to make a difference ,or if I should just buy the Rodney dickman sub replacement speaker here



The "inventor" ran this sub with the stock amplifier. Read his writeup.
http://www.fiero.nl/forum/A...090219-2-076432.html



markkrug MSG #97, 02-21-2014 11:20 AM
      I just got my Tang Band installed. I had to use a Kenwood 1502 amp as I did not have a stock amp. The system will not knock your socks off so to speak but it is a HUGE improvement over no subwoofer. The system does not rattle and shake the mirrors but you know there is a subwoofer kicking in the car. I got the amp off ebay for about $54.00. It was an easy install and fits perfectly behind the passenger seat.

PaulJK MSG #98, 04-24-2014 06:27 AM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by fierosound:

Because the tube is tuned for the stock speaker, it needs to be modified to match the new speaker's specs. Cut off 2 inches from the end.



 
quote
Originally posted by fierosound:

Originally posted by timgray:
... if you are using the Tang Band speaker as mentioned in one of the other posts, stuff it loosely with the poly fill, put a little in the port tube and cut 3/4 of an inch off the end of the port tube to tune the box perfectly to the Tang Band 5.25" subwoofer driver.



Should this be 2" or 3/4" cut off the end ?

I just ordered a kicker 6.5 inch sub for a sealed box (0.2-0.3 cu. ft.). Would the factory enclosure work ok if i use polyfill and just capped the tube ?

Anyone else use a 6.5 " sub in the factory enclosure ?

[This message has been edited by PaulJK (edited 04-24-2014).]

fierosound (fierosound2@shaw.ca) MSG #99, 04-27-2014 07:27 AM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by PaulJK:

Should this be 2" or 3/4" cut off the end ?

I just ordered a kicker 6.5 inch sub for a sealed box (0.2-0.3 cu. ft.). Would the factory enclosure work ok if i use polyfill and just capped the tube ?

Anyone else use a 6.5 " sub in the factory enclosure ?



Cut 2" off (I just edited the quote on the 3/4" cut to avoid this confusion again). That's for the Tang-Band subwoofer.
If you're using something else - that's another matter (and another calculation I guess).

Tim Gray did the original calculations: http://www.fiero.nl/forum/A...090219-2-086896.html

(Tim Gray) UPDATE : I updated fierosound with this info.... Increase the trimming of the tube to 2 inches instead of the 3/4" I recommended above. It get's rid of some of the boominess I found. I also added more poly fill to the box as well. I had a problem with a "boomy sound" when anything with heavy bass was played. Taking off the 2 inches made the bass response flatter across the frequencies.

[This message has been edited by fierosound (edited 04-27-2014).]

Boostdreamer (thinner00@hotmail.com) MSG #100, 04-27-2014 04:28 PM
      What's the final word on sealing the tube after cutting it? Tape it tightly closed or just enough to keep the poly fluff inside? Can you give a better description of how densely to pack the fluff? Similar to a newborn's floppy stuffed toy, like blown-in attic insulation, or like a more rigid teddy bear?

I did find a piece of 3/4" MDF at Home Depot for $6. It was a 12"x48" piece. I would have paid that for a scrap so it was a no-brainer to buy it. I made that stupid ring THREE times and all three broke. The first one broke from the pressure of my jigsaw blade vibrating the whole piece. It broke along one of the thin sides.



The other two split horizontally when I tried to tighten screws into them.



The third one split even though I had only cut a 1-1/2" hole in the center. Apparently, MDF just isn't made for wood screws!



I went back to Home Depot and found a Red Oak board that was 3/4 or 1", can't remember. It was something like 6"x24" and also about $6.



I'm still working on it. Got to open the hole up some more. The oak is definately more difficult to work on. It takes more effort to remove material. The good news is that I already have fit it to the box, the holes are drilled for the screws, and they have been run in and back out. No sign of splitting anywhere this time!



The other thing I will mention is that I cut the connector off the original speaker and soldered it to the contacts of the new TB speaker. I hope it doesn't matter which tab the wires go to.

[This message has been edited by Boostdreamer (edited 05-01-2014).]

PaulJK MSG #101, 05-05-2014 04:22 AM
      Fierosound, thank you for the clarification. I ended up completely rebuilding the subwoofer box to make it MUCH bigger and getting it all sealed with fiberglass. I'm using a sealed volume, so the tube cut didn't matter.

BoostDreamer,

When I added the wood across the bottom, I used "L" brackets to attach a larger piece of wood to the bottom of the box. That way you don't have to worry about splitting the wood. Seal the seam with silicon.



Also, you need to make sure the + terminal on the speaker is connected to the + terminal on the amp. Polarity Does matter in the way the speakers sound.

[This message has been edited by PaulJK (edited 05-05-2014).]

PaulJK MSG #102, 05-05-2014 04:29 AM
      By the way, I have a neobium TB subwoofer speaker in the Mall for sale if anyone wants to do this mod. I'll probably be listing another one (not sure if it's neobium or not) already mounted in the speaker box soon (it will b plug-n-play).

http://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum4/HTML/069056.html


carbon MSG #103, 05-05-2014 09:53 AM
      Neodymium...

fierosound (fierosound2@shaw.ca) MSG #104, 05-05-2014 02:21 PM
      I guess I got lucky. I only made ONE insert for the speaker from MDF.
I predrilled the mounting holes and used the original subwoofer housing screws.
Wood screws are basically wedges and will even split "real wood".

But I think a better alternative to MDF etc. may be Plastic HDPE Cutting Board.
You usually see these at the Dollar Store. 1/2" thick or better should work OK.


Boostdreamer (thinner00@hotmail.com) MSG #105, 05-05-2014 02:52 PM
     

I got mine installed and is working very well. At first it was buzzing. It took some time to figure it out but the buzz was from the four sides of the box vibrating against the four sides of the wooden insert. It was tight but not tight enough. You can see in the pic that the screws are more toward the corners so that leaves a long unsupported space in the middle to vibrate. I solved it by using some thin foam rubber sheeting that I bought at Walmart or Ben Franklin on the construction paper isle. It is like the thin separators that come inside socket sets.

Anyway, I cut some scraps and stuffed them from the inside edge of the wooden ring toward the outter edge of the plastic housing. I got a piece stuffed in on all four sides. Then I made a ring out of the same stuff and placed it between the speaker and the box. That's all it wanted. Just some insulation between the different materials. No more buzzing and I didn't have to use any goop or fiberglass or anything messy to get a good seal. Whether or not it will last remains to be seen, though. If it starts buzzing again, I have a sheet of rubber that I'll cut up and use.

I still need to figure out a way to protect the sub speaker. The grills from my dash component speakers didn't fit it so I'll have to come up with something else.


PaulJK MSG #106, 05-06-2014 03:42 AM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by carbon:

Neodymium...



thanks (nice to know somebody reads my posts )


PaulJK MSG #107, 05-08-2014 09:15 PM
      Fierosound, u have a PM.

rbell2915 (rbell2915@gmail.com) MSG #108, 06-10-2014 01:18 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by BV MotorSports:

Amazon has them for $30.

http://www.amazon.com/Tang-...Woofer/dp/B000BWXWTI


I was thinking of buying the subwoofer that BV MotorSports posted above, but I noticed that it's an 8 ohm speaker, while I used 4 ohm speakers for the dash and B-pillars. Is this going to be a problem or anything? Or will having a good amp erase any problem that might occur (such as not being loud enough)?

EDIT: I think the stock subwoofer is 8 ohms also, so now I'm assuming that there will be no problems?

[This message has been edited by rbell2915 (edited 06-10-2014).]

Lurate (lurate@mac.com) MSG #109, 09-13-2014 01:34 AM
      Would be sweet if someone would 3D print some ABS inserts rather than having to cut MDF or oak. I'd buy a couple right now.

fierogtlt1 (fierogtlt1@bellsouth.net) MSG #110, 09-13-2014 01:38 PM
      You could easily make a mold of that part and cast it in casting resin.....Just my opinion.

fierosound (fierosound2@shaw.ca) MSG #111, 12-13-2014 09:54 AM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by Boostdreamer:

I got mine installed and is working very well. At first it was buzzing. It took some time to figure it out but the buzz was from the four sides of the box vibrating against the four sides of the wooden insert. It was tight but not tight enough.


I smeared a thin film of silicone around the edge of the board before pressing it into the housing. Never had any buzz.


E.Furgal MSG #112, 02-08-2015 11:58 AM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by Lurate:

Would be sweet if someone would 3D print some ABS inserts rather than having to cut MDF or oak. I'd buy a couple right now.


I may, and use the same material that I made the 4x10 speaker adapters that I sold out of,, just thicker sheet, or two bonded together.


pokeyfiero (pokey702910@gmail.com) MSG #113, 06-19-2015 01:15 AM
      any update on availability of these or a better replacement?

fierosound (fierosound2@shaw.ca) MSG #114, 06-19-2015 06:27 AM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by pokeyfiero:

any update on availability of these or a better replacement?


Having trouble finding one at Parts Express?
http://www.parts-express.co...m-subwoofer--264-831




E.Furgal MSG #115, 06-21-2015 11:02 AM
      I bought speaker adapters (sold in pairs) made for Harleys to adapt 6.5" speakers in the 5.25" hole,
I should know in a few weeks when I get the time if this is a bolt together deal, if so.. it make adding a 6.5" sub so much easier..


pokeyfiero (pokey702910@gmail.com) MSG #116, 06-23-2015 02:45 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by fierosound:


Having trouble finding one at Parts Express?
http://www.parts-express.co...m-subwoofer--264-831



No I just hoped for cheaper



Jefrysuko MSG #117, 06-25-2015 01:10 AM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by pokeyfiero:

No I just hoped for cheaper


Try this one http://www.parts-express.co...fer-speaker--264-917

Looks like possibly a better match but I'm no speaker expert.


fierosound (fierosound2@shaw.ca) MSG #118, 06-25-2015 11:14 AM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by pokeyfiero:

No I just hoped for cheaper


Let us know how this works out.
https://www.parts-express.c...ofer-driver--299-125




Jefrysuko MSG #119, 06-25-2015 02:35 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by fierosound:

Let us know how this works out.
https://www.parts-express.c...ofer-driver--299-125



fierosound, of these three speakers how would you think they would perform in relation to each other?


fierosound (fierosound2@shaw.ca) MSG #120, 06-25-2015 03:18 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by Jefrysuko:

fierosound, of these three speakers how would you think they would perform in relation to each other?


I have absolutely no idea! You'd have to buy all 3 and try them.
All I can tell you is how well the Tang-Band I HAVE works.
Those who want to buy something else and experiment are free to do so.

I used the Tang-Band on the recommendation of Bigfieroman who did the initial research.
http://www.fiero.nl/forum/A...090219-2-076432.html

[This message has been edited by fierosound (edited 06-25-2015).]

Jefrysuko MSG #121, 06-26-2015 07:32 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by fierosound:

I have absolutely no idea! You'd have to buy all 3 and try them.
All I can tell you is how well the Tang-Band I HAVE works.
Those who want to buy something else and experiment are free to do so.

I used the Tang-Band on the recommendation of Bigfieroman who did the initial research.
http://www.fiero.nl/forum/A...090219-2-076432.html



Out of curiosity I contacted Parts Express.

Basics of the conversation went at such. Tang Band Neodymium sub is the best there is for our application. The Ferrite version that I linked to has very similar specs yet has a large magnet which would occupy a large percentage of the air volume in our application thus making it suffer in performance compared to the Neodymium version. The large Xmax and frequency response is what makes the Tang Band good for our application.

I'll be ordering a Neodymium. Someone else will have to experiment.



fierosound (fierosound2@shaw.ca) MSG #122, 06-27-2015 10:10 AM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by Jefrysuko:

Out of curiosity I contacted Parts Express.

Basics of the conversation went at such. Tang Band Neodymium sub is the best there is for our application. The Ferrite version that I linked to has very similar specs yet has a large magnet which would occupy a large percentage of the air volume in our application thus making it suffer in performance compared to the Neodymium version. The large Xmax and frequency response is what makes the Tang Band good for our application.



Thank you. That should answer pokeyfiero's question too.



fierosound (fierosound2@shaw.ca) MSG #123, 07-20-2015 04:30 PM
      Not my car - found this video on YouTube - recorded with a cell phone I think.
Unfortunately, a YouTube video doesn't give you the "in the car" sound and feel.

[This message has been edited by fierosound (edited 07-20-2015).]

Internet-man (corvusala@gmail.com) MSG #124, 04-28-2018 04:04 PM
      Has any one ever had audio problems with this mod?
I did mine a year ago and it's never sounded right. It sounds great when I'm listening to something like dance music where there are nice clean bass hits but if I listen to rock and roll where there are sustained low tones like a long note on a bass guitar it sounds really distorted. I've tried taking the speaker out of the housing and playing music that I know causes it to see if the speaker is blown but it goes away when I do that, press it back in to the opening and it comes right back.
I'm thinking about uninstalling it and getting an RD speaker or something.


Lurate (lurate@mac.com) MSG #125, 05-03-2018 02:28 PM
      I've done this in 2 Fieros and love it in each one. I was have some cut out problems in one at high volume that turned out to me a short in the wiring inside the enclosure. No problems since fixing that. I agree the neodymium are the way to go


migs (xcidmigs@gmail.com) MSG #126, 01-07-2019 09:49 AM
      Has anyone actually compared to 2 different models of the TB speaker that are sold? w5-1138sm or w5-1138smf? Seems like looking at the spec sheets that the one which is $20 more expensive has a smaller magnet and is actually rated at slightly lower power? Would that make it just a better match to the low power stock amp, or what am I missing? I was always told to buy the sub with bigger magnet.

wgpierce MSG #127, 01-23-2019 08:09 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by Internet-man:

Has any one ever had audio problems with this mod?
I did mine a year ago and it's never sounded right. It sounds great when I'm listening to something like dance music where there are nice clean bass hits but if I listen to rock and roll where there are sustained low tones like a long note on a bass guitar it sounds really distorted.


I'd think that would have more to do with the enclosure than the speaker. I like Rock more than other types and I never ever use a ported enclosure. I like sealed enclosures and I build my own for a 6.5" sub.



Internet-man (corvusala@gmail.com) MSG #128, 03-07-2019 02:18 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by wgpierce:


I'd think that would have more to do with the enclosure than the speaker. I like Rock more than other types and I never ever use a ported enclosure. I like sealed enclosures and I build my own for a 6.5" sub.


I'm using the factory sub housing. I discovered a couple unwanted noise sources. I eliminated the noise from the vibrating dashboard by jamming a bunch of rubber-polly whatever it's called packing material up in the dash around the enclosure (I also recently bought a new dash and when I install it I'm going to fill some of the empty spaces in the back with expanding foam) and I got a better sound out of the sub by turning my other amp (the aftermarket one powering the rest of my speakers) way up so that I don't have to turn the radio up as much. It's like 70% better but even then it will still sound distorted, even with the volume on the sub volume slider turned all the way down. It's got to be the factory amp that's powering the sub. It could just be that it's 33 years old, worn out, and sending a dirty signal.
And now to figure out how to put a small aftermarket amp to power the sub in the same place in the kafkaesque stereo wiring harness...