My '88 Coupe build
Topic started by: HTXtremes, Date: 09-26-2007 07:38 PM
Original thread:

HTXtremes ( MSG #1, 09-26-2007 07:38 PM
      Let me start out with saying I've been watching this forum for a while and have gotten loads of information from all of you guys and gals on here and Thank you very much!

I bought my first Fiero when I was 19, I'm 25 now, but never got it on the road. It was an '85 GT, black with gray interior and an auto. It needed a new hood decklid and driverside rockers. Found an '88 coupe for $650 delivered to the house on a rollback, bought it for parts, this was until I found out the advantages of the '88. Both cars sat at my parents house till this summer when I brought the '88 back to my house in NW Arkansas. I started stripping the car down to clean it up and do the engine swap. Wanted to go with a manual, and picked up a G6 6 speed for $474 to the doorstep. This tranny will be going in with a TT 4.0 Aurora 32 valve DOHC. In building this car I decided to go with a 3 inch stretch, 96.5" rather then the 93.5" stocker, smooth out the lines a little better in my opinion. Besides there are other ulterior motives that needed the stretch.
For the stretch I went with 1 3/4" x 1/8" wall Square tubing. Used a total of about 90" of tubing for a three inch stretch. In the upper rails I used an 18" piece and stacked two pieces a 15" piece on top of a 12" piece in each lower frame rail. After removing the engine and cradle, I gutted the engine compartment. First I removed the battery box and the thin metal between the firewall and strut tower on both sides. For the cuts I started by measuring 6 inches from the back glass on each upper rail and 6 inches from the kick in the lower frame rails, the lower frame rail comes straight out from the firewall about 6 inches and kicks in somewhere between 5 to 7 degrees. My goal on this car is to drive it to the 25th in July. There are a few things I have not documented, this is only because so many people on here have done something very similar. I am working on a NHRA spec roll bar with removable door bars that will have minimal intrusion into the interior, and still maintain a GLASS rear window. This is in the works, I will post more information on this as the bugs are worked out. Will post pictures later tonight, have to resize them all because they are all to big.

[This message has been edited by HTXtremes (edited 10-02-2007).]

HTXtremes ( MSG #2, 09-26-2007 09:09 PM
      Some pictures to wet your appetite! LOL

On the lower frame rails I split the inside panel off of the frame because of a groove on the top and bottom on the inside of the frame. I left these apart until the frame was welded pretty solid back together, then used the BFP to put it where it needed to go.

To get the tubing to fit in the frame rails I had to grind the lip off of the stamped holes in the frame. I used some self tapping sheet metal screws to hold it in place until final welding was done.

I used a 1 1/8" hole saw to make holes in the sheet metal frame rails so I could have VERY LARGE spot welds, there are over 38 of these welds.

[This message has been edited by HTXtremes (edited 09-26-2007).]

ALLTRBO MSG #3, 09-26-2007 09:25 PM
      SWEET. Just the type of thread I've been looking for!
*grabs popcorn, waits for more pics*
Thanks for sharing the project.

You didn't happen to see my concept thread did you?

Mr.PBody ( MSG #4, 09-26-2007 09:37 PM
      looking good, more pics please!

ALLTRBO MSG #5, 09-27-2007 07:57 PM
      OOC, what kind of welder did you use?

HTXtremes ( MSG #6, 09-27-2007 08:34 PM
      I wanna say it was a Miller 200 mig, I'm not a welder so I had a guy come out and weld it up for me, he brought the welder. Forty bucks in gas, for that much welding was cheap in my book, so I threw in 100 ft of 8-4 S.O. cord.

[This message has been edited by HTXtremes (edited 02-21-2008).]

HTXtremes ( MSG #7, 09-27-2007 08:42 PM
      Oh yeah In this picture you can see where I relocated the fuel door cable. New route of cable is between yellow lines. A 3/8" drill bit and a small length of stainless tubing gave me a cleaner look. Besides if I ever have an issue with the cable it will be easier to replace now.

[This message has been edited by HTXtremes (edited 09-27-2007).]

HTXtremes ( MSG #8, 09-27-2007 08:46 PM
      By the way ALL TRBO, no I didn't see your concept thread, whats it under?

ALLTRBO MSG #9, 09-27-2007 09:16 PM
      Okay. I'm just wondering what a minimum welder would be to accomplish a sturdy connection for this. It seems that it'd be a bit difficult to weld the thick tubes to the thin frame. I haven't welded yet but I'm about to buy a welder to learn on.

My concept is definitely different than your project, but it involves a stretched '88 with a TT V8. I'm considering making it my long term project, doing lots of research.
It's here:

Keep it up with the pics, much appreciated.

HTXtremes ( MSG #10, 09-28-2007 12:42 AM
      Ok updates! just some pics of items being used.

blue tape is where the 1 3/4" chrome moly tubing will connect for the NHRA spec roll bar. By the way it will have LEGAL REMOVABLE door bars!!

here's a pic of where I want to mount a full size spare. Will take some work but it can and will be done!

new battery box and old spare tire mount out of car

New battery box with battery test fit in car. Box still needs a few more layers of glass, this is the first fiberglass project I've taken on.

motor I will be rebuilding and installing with Twin Turbos and 5 to 7 lbs of boost

modified trans ( by specs in Zac88GT's post "northstar 6 speed")

Some of the interior mods on the way include deleting the factory seat belts, new dash, and putting 5 1/4" speakers in the old seat belt reel location.

[This message has been edited by HTXtremes (edited 09-28-2007).]

HTXtremes ( MSG #11, 09-28-2007 12:48 AM
      Forgot to say the saddle colored interior will not be put back in, if anyone needs it!

HTXtremes ( MSG #12, 09-29-2007 04:34 PM
      Because I am going with a set of Sabelt 6 point harnesses I will no longer need the factory seat belt locations so they are getting glassed and filled. I am going to relocate the speakers to the bulge where the seat belt assembly was because the roll bar will block the old speaker location. Here are a couple pics one of the b pillar trim and one of rough design of the dash. Let me know what you guys and gals think. I will try to keep everyone updated on the build, if anyone has questions I will do my best to answer if I can. Also if anyone has any ideas that you think might help out please post them, this post is help others as much as to get help myself. So please feel free to comment!

HTXtremes ( MSG #13, 09-29-2007 08:59 PM
      Some pics of the new brackets to mount the rear hatch struts.

HTXtremes ( MSG #14, 10-01-2007 01:46 AM
      Updates for today, Let me start out by saying I have no experience in fiberglass so bear with me I'm still learning. I will say before anyone takes on a battle with fiberglass be positive you get everything you need before you start, GLOVES are a must, resin is not easy to get off of your hands or anything you touch afterward. Spent half my time glassing the other half trying to get the resin off my hands.
before work started

after work started

If you couldn't tell I'm an electrician by trade, note the 4 11/16" box cover and 1/2" EMT as temporary bracing. I'll leave the EMT in place and glass over it giving more strength.

after rear hatch strut mount was installed

Here is a picture of a replica F-40 without a stretch

Here is a picture of a real F-40

Even though the non stretch replica looks very good, I think you need to have the correct wheelbase in order to get the lines to flow as Enzo Ferrari originally had on his dream car. I am going to make my Ferrari replica as close to the original as I can and still have the Fiero dependability and be driven daily.

[This message has been edited by HTXtremes (edited 10-02-2007).]

IMSA GT ( MSG #15, 10-01-2007 01:52 AM
      Before you go too much may want to copy this post and move it to the General area. I know tons of people will want to see this build. I just came upon it by accident because I rarely go into the tech section......Just my opinion

HTXtremes ( MSG #16, 10-01-2007 01:58 AM
      Heres a picture of a red non stretch f40, for better comparison, on an '87 coupe chassis, built with a ZZ4 350 and an Isuzu 5 speed, this one is in IL, lets just say I know the owner. This ones for you buddy!! LOL
By the way this is the body kit that I started with. This one was done when he bought it I bought mine on ebay a couple months ago and we drove to Fort Wayne, IN together to get my new car.

[This message has been edited by HTXtremes (edited 10-01-2007).]

HTXtremes ( MSG #17, 10-01-2007 02:08 AM
      I wouldn't even know how to go about moving it to the general area. Still really new to PFF.

Finally_Mine_86_GT ( MSG #18, 10-01-2007 05:11 PM
      excuse me for being a little slow here but where did you get the body?

HTXtremes ( MSG #19, 10-01-2007 10:24 PM
      Bought the complete body and a '88 formula off of ebay, found it in Fort Wayne, IN, $2725.00 Winning bid!

Mr.PBody ( MSG #20, 10-02-2007 12:20 AM
      Jeez man I have been BSing for 900 posts and you jump in and start a crazy project in under 22 posts, hats off. This build is going to be sweet.

HTXtremes ( MSG #21, 10-02-2007 12:31 AM
      Thank you for the complement! Got the bug! After I got home from teaching class tonight I had to go out and run my fingers over her smooth lines, and wish it was still the weekend so I could get more done. Seems that there is never enough time in the weekend to get done what you want to get done.

Mr.PBody ( MSG #22, 10-02-2007 12:44 AM
      Yeah I am in the same boat, I got a job to pay for my addiction, now I barely have time for it.

HTXtremes ( MSG #23, 10-02-2007 01:18 AM
      Forty hours a week as an electrician, and two nights a week as a college instructor, guess its more free time then last year of teaching three nights a week. LOL Oh well the pay is good and it helps me be that much closer to getting my car done.

ALLTRBO MSG #24, 10-03-2007 08:30 PM
      A twin turbo V8 with a proper wheelbase? Sweet! It's no real F40, but it's cool that you're using a proper number of cylinders and turbos while stretching it to create a more "realistic" replica. You are cheating on the displacement and number of gears though.

Keep the pics coming.

HTXtremes ( MSG #25, 10-04-2007 12:10 AM
      I know ALL TRBO, But it is my personal car so why not have it the way I want it! LOL

OK some more pics from tonight, First one is a comparison of a stretched panel to a non stretched one!

Update on new spare location! (still in the works no final location of other parts set yet)

Last is a picture of the top cut to make the rear hatch look right!

I don't get much done during the week, but I get a lot of drool time on here during the week, LOL! I ordered the tubing for the roll bar today, not going with Chrome Moly, no body can get it in locally. Going with 1 3/4" DOM .125" wall tubing. Might end up having a second rear hoop bent with the extra pipe I have to order.

HTXtremes ( MSG #26, 10-05-2007 07:22 PM
      Did some pricing and looking for the Chrome moly tubing to build the roll bar! Ebay was the only place I could really find, $45 + $19.02 for 8 ft of 1 3/4" x.083". So I thought it might not be worth going chrome moly if it was going to cost $245 for enough to build the roll bar! Then I looked into DOM (drawn over mandrel) tubing, which would have to be 1/8" wall. DOM tubing from a local guy was going to cost me $5.49 a foot but I would have to order 40 ft to have enough to build the roll bar, this totals about $220 before taxes almost $240 after taxes. So thus I went back to ebay, the seller for the moly I was looking at will combine shipping, bringing the total for the Chrome Moly to about $200 to the door. Chrome Moly bar is back in the works.

niemann99 MSG #27, 10-06-2007 12:34 AM
      Nice! Pretty ambitious for a first build. Just to let you know, Jegs has everything from halos and hoops, to a complete chassis kit, check it out. A hoop is only $52, halo & hoop is only $92

Mr.PBody ( MSG #28, 10-06-2007 12:55 AM
      This is a sweet build. I had a thought though, shouldn't you design your front spare holder around the rims you end up using, or is the stock rim going to be the spare?

HTXtremes ( MSG #29, 10-06-2007 03:02 AM
As for the Jegs roll bars, They will not fit the way I need them to fit, I.E. almost disappear into the cockpit, besides they are .135" wall tubing which will be pretty heavy when I'm trying to keep the weight as low as possible.

The stock tire being used for the mock up is just for a rough fit. I will need to make room for a tire that is 25.9" x 9", for the new spare will be a 205/55r17, the front tires will be 235/45zr17 (25.4") and the rear will be 335/35zr17 (26"), thus the spare should be ok to run on either front or rear and not be a D@MN dough nut! Oh yeah I need to run a 17" spare for the future brake upgrade, 13" Wilwood!

[This message has been edited by HTXtremes (edited 10-06-2007).]

HTXtremes ( MSG #30, 10-06-2007 11:24 PM
      Updates from today's work, first picture is me trying to get the lines lined up, put some masking tape on it then put primer on the tape to get a feel of what the new lines were going to be. No glass work on the top yet.

Expandable foam to fill in the void between the top and rear hatch, will tape over and glass the two pieces together.

AJxtcman ( MSG #31, 10-08-2007 10:38 PM
      I am sooooooooo glad GM is doing away with spare tires!
I don't have one and I do not recommend anyone changing a tire on the side of the road.
If you don't have one you will figure something out and I bet it will be safer.

Mr.PBody ( MSG #32, 10-08-2007 11:19 PM
      Looking good, can't wait to see updates!

HTXtremes ( MSG #33, 10-15-2007 11:47 PM
      Ok, I haven't posted any progress in a while here are some pics of the E-brake relocation and some bracing on the new front cross member for the 4.0 Aurora swap.

First off E-brake brackets, By the way I am not done with my bracing. The new front cross member is 1 3/4" square by 1/8" wall, original cross member was more like a hat channel of 16-14 gauge steel therefore mine should be stronger.

Next up How I stretched the cradle the three inches

bolts and brackets

Brackets in place for the stretch

finished stretch, I will be plating both sides of the end of the cradle horns with 1/8" plate

And by the way this will be installed on the passenger side of the wing, molds are being made now!

Everyone let me know what you think, Am I wasting my time posting or is everyone enjoying the updates?

[This message has been edited by HTXtremes (edited 10-15-2007).]

HTXtremes ( MSG #34, 10-16-2007 12:01 AM
      Oh yeah forgot to update on the rear window! The glass company here in Bentonville, AR are having the special piece of glass cut and tempered out of 1/4" glass, it will include notches to clear a NHRA Spec roll bar. The price for this window will be about $125 after taxes, not to bad in my book for the custom work. Will be getting this glass in, in the next week or two.

My roll bar is one step closer to being reality! I am having the company making this window retain the pattern, so they can reproduce it again if anyone would be interested. I will also make a pattern of the roll bar for anyone that would be interested.

ALLTRBO MSG #35, 10-18-2007 06:32 AM
      I'm reading, just too busy to post much currently. Keep it up.

HTXtremes ( MSG #36, 11-02-2007 11:01 PM
      Ok Its been a while since an update. Been working seven days a week and will continue doing so for a couple more weeks, so not much time to work on my car.

Made a plug for the add in logo on the rear wing as the real car has. First I made a fiberglass mold of the side of the wing, to have the same contour as the wing in my plug. Then I put a box around the trimmed up fiberglass panel and poured Plaster of paris in the box. After the plaster set up I made a pattern free hand from looking at a picture I have of the real wing. With a modified exacto knife I carved out the lettering and rounded the edges. Now I need to sand, paint and make a mold off of the plug.

Also got the rear window in for the roll bar install..... Glass is 1/4" thick tempered and cost $115.

Pictures of the seat belts being used...

And here is a pic of one of my current rides.

Truck has a 4.3 auto and 182k miles by ME, also has a pair of Kicker L7 12's and a 2000w class D amp stuffed behind the seat!!

Mr.PBody ( MSG #37, 11-02-2007 11:15 PM
      L7s nice. I want to see more F40!!!! Are you getting different seats? please tell me you are.

HTXtremes ( MSG #38, 11-02-2007 11:27 PM
      Seats still in the air.... Haven't found one's I like, Mr Mike can make a pair of covers with slots for the shoulder belts to go through... Current seats just a mock up for now.... Yeah those L7's are only turned up about a 1/4 of the way and they will still shake the cars around me...LOL

Mr.PBody ( MSG #39, 11-02-2007 11:36 PM
      I've got an alpine type R, and my friend runs Fi SSDs, and I know another guy with Solo X 12s. Kicker makes a loud sub.

Robert 2 MSG #40, 11-03-2007 06:26 AM
Originally posted by HTXtremes:

Forgot to say the saddle colored interior will not be put back in, if anyone needs it!

Nice project ++++++
Do you have the seat belt mechanism cover for sale ?
mean the one on the seat side where the bench is articulated . my interior is saddle
Thank you

HTXtremes ( MSG #41, 11-04-2007 07:43 PM
      Robert do you mean the one on the outside of the seat or inside, Driver or passenger side? All the pieces are not there for the interior, bought it with a blown duke in it.

I own page two on my own thread!! LOL

[This message has been edited by HTXtremes (edited 11-04-2007).]

Fierofreak00 ( MSG #42, 11-25-2007 06:01 PM
      Get to work, we need an update! -Jason

Robert 2 MSG #43, 11-25-2007 10:19 PM
      the one that cover the seat mechanism on the outside of the driver seat

SAFASTRO MSG #44, 12-12-2007 07:29 PM
      Hey HTX......any updates????

HTXtremes ( MSG #45, 12-12-2007 11:01 PM
      no updates right now, still trying to find a place to get my roll bar bent up to my specs.

By the way Robert, Sorry I haven't got back to you, Both the outer seat mechanisms are missing on my saddle colored seats.

Robert 2 MSG #46, 12-13-2007 02:18 AM
      Thank you and keep on the good work .
I'd like to have your skill .

The_Stickman2 ( MSG #47, 12-13-2007 02:58 AM
      Very cool build. Can't wait to see the roll bar. I had a guy that does cages for a living do my race car. He swore he would NEVER do another Fiero again. Guess it was hard getting the hoop and other pieces in due to the large hump. Again very cool project.

HC MSG #48, 12-13-2007 03:40 AM

Can't wait to see more pictures!!

HTXtremes ( MSG #49, 12-31-2007 07:34 PM
      Sorry for the Delay all!! I have now got a piece of 1.75" by .083" wall Chromoly tubing bent to rough shape for the roll bar!!
I don't have any pics yet and it might be a while before I am able to post any, my camera has went A-wall!

I will bring in the new year the right way this year, working on my car!

I am going to see if I can get the roll bar mocked up in the morning.

Fierostarvin MSG #50, 01-02-2008 08:51 AM
      Great build!! I've been stewing over doing an engine swap can't imagine trying to do everything you are. btw the fiberglass work looks great.

WAWUZAT ( MSG #51, 01-02-2008 08:02 PM
Originally posted by HTXtremes: Sorry for the Delay all!! I have now got a piece of 1.75" by .083" wall Chromoly tubing bent to rough shape for the roll bar!!

You're going to pre-heat that Chromoly tubing before welding, aren't you? It should be at least 200-degrees F before you strike an arc.

This is the first time I've seen this thread. Keep up the good work!

[This message has been edited by WAWUZAT (edited 01-02-2008).]

HTXtremes ( MSG #52, 01-02-2008 11:28 PM
      WAWUZAT, I'm going to tack it all together, remove it, and take it to a professional, to get it welded up. Like I said in an earlier post, I'm not a welder and will not put something this important in the hands of an amateur!

Thank you all for your complements and support in this adventure!
Without your feedback i would never know if this thread was being enjoyed.

Amida ( MSG #53, 01-07-2008 11:18 AM
Originally posted by HTXtremes:

Oh yeah In this picture you can see where I relocated the fuel door cable. New route of cable is between yellow lines. A 3/8" drill bit and a small length of stainless tubing gave me a cleaner look. Besides if I ever have an issue with the cable it will be easier to replace now.

A frame jig would be so handy for stretching to rid of the guess work. I remember when I did my stretch I probably measured & checked level a hundred time before welding. I like how you did yours with the long tubes inserted into the rails. I took instruction from IFG's website & capped the rails with 1/8" plate on the outside as well.

HTXtremes ( MSG #54, 01-08-2008 11:54 PM
      Yeah Amida I was at first planning on capping the outside of the frame rails until i decided to install a roll bar. The roll bar I am putting in should strengthen it up allot. The main hoop will be tied into the top of the car as well as the lower and upper frame rails, welded solid to the rear window sill, then from the top of the hoop to the strut towers, from this bar I will also put in an X brace from side to side over the engine of 3/4" mild steel tubing.

Also forgot to say I've seen many frame streches where no one thought about what the ends of the tubing in the center of the rails is doing under load. That is why I put all of the spot welds all the way around the frame rails on every one of them.

Main hoop did not turn out as planned! I'm going to bend a new one, the shop that bent the first one for me did not know what they were doing! Some bends were over bent while others under, and bends on opposite sides do not line up. The guy even kinked the pipe in one of the bends. The bad part is this is a shop that builds and sells High dollar IMCA modified chassis, built to order. I could have done a better job with a conduit bender from work.

[This message has been edited by HTXtremes (edited 01-08-2008).]

HTXtremes ( MSG #55, 02-02-2008 11:38 PM
      Well I've got some new parts and some still on the way.

List of parts that are here;

Brand new NOS Ferrari 360 Tail lights (look allot nicer then the stock F40 tails)
Ferrari 355 ignition switch
Ferrari Mondial T door handles (have the same shape as the vents in the hood)
Parts on the way;

MOMO thousand lakes fiberglass race buckets
S2000 starter button (thanks Paul)
Flywheel and clutch from a stock G6 6 speed

Previously acquired pieces;

Sabelt FIA 6 Point harnesses
4.0 Olds Aurora DOHC 32 valve engine
2006 G6 6 speed tranny
Custom cut and tempered rear window (to clear the roll bar)
Two T3/T4 turbos
'97 Cadillac N* intake with stainless fuel rail (in the process of removing the molded in bracket bosses)

Parts looking at buying;

Complete air over shocks in front and air over struts in the rear
(I wanna be able to lift the front of the car a few inches to clear when entering and exiting parking lots)
Compomotive wheels (17x13 in rear and 17x9 in front)
Michelin Tires (335/35zr17 rear and 235/45zr17 or 245/40zr17 in the front)
12" rotor upgrade kit
90mm Hella headlights
VDO gauges with 220 mph speedo

I'm going to buy a new camera soon so I can post up some new pictures

Mr.PBody ( MSG #56, 02-03-2008 01:11 AM
      Can't wait for pics.

HTXtremes ( MSG #57, 02-04-2008 12:30 AM
      Pictures will be coming by the truck load as soon as I can get a new camera. LOL

As for progress I found out that a 2 lb spool of wire for a mig welder will only last about 2 hours.
Spent a couple hours, well it would've been longer, tonight welding on brackets and filling holes in the
engine cradle tonight. I capped off the front ends of the cradle and am filling all unneeded holes.
Got the idler bracket welded up tonight, now I've just got to start grinding all welds down to get a smoooth
finish on everything. I'm looking at using the stock radius rod end for motor mounts, then install
Prothane bushings from Summit, Complete rear kit is just $60. Complete front kit for an '88 is about $40,
to me this is cheep as dirt.

[This message has been edited by HTXtremes (edited 02-04-2008).]

HTXtremes ( MSG #58, 02-16-2008 06:55 PM
      Sorry no Camera yet!

Last night and today I've been welding up a storm. Boxed in the rear cross member on the cradle, (where the stock tranny mount was) and made the front tranny mount utilizing some of the suspension pieces for the mount. I cut the ends off of the rod that travels from the spindle to the front of the cradle. I'm welding these ends to the brackets that will be bolted the the motor and the tranny.

HTXtremes ( MSG #59, 02-17-2008 04:49 PM
      Ok here are a few pictures from this weekend, Be advised all parts that have been welded still need to be smoothed out for the final finish before painting. One of my former students came out to interview me for his college English literature class assignment, he took a few pictures to put in with the interview. LOL Made me feel good that he thought highly enough of me to want to interview me.

Here is the front tranny mount for the G6 6 speed

Next is my new seats that are going to get redone

Boxing in the rear cross member on the cradle, (used part of the dogbone mount from strut tower)

Tail lights and ignition switch

Some random pics

mikebrnch MSG #60, 02-18-2008 09:11 AM

Got you email. I love the seats. I went with red leather for my F40 build but really like those too. Are you mounting the 360 lights directly to the rear screen? I'll be using abs plastic to make the figure eight around the lights what will you go with? I purchased some screen from Home Depot but it's way to flimsy for the rear screen IMHO. Will start searching the net today for a substitute. The Home Depot screen will be good for the front though, check it out next time your in there. It's around $6.50 for a sheet 8 x 3 foot or something like that. Keep it up.


twofatguys ( MSG #61, 02-20-2008 06:34 AM

You gonna be ready by the 25th?


HTXtremes ( MSG #62, 02-20-2008 09:08 PM
      I'm hoping, crosses fingers! Getting more parts in every day.

Got a polished intercooler from a RX-7 in the mail today!
Intercooler core is 12" X 12" X 3" still need to get the second one to match!

Hey Brad you'll have to come down and help me sometime if you get a chance, LOL.

HTXtremes ( MSG #63, 02-21-2008 09:38 PM
      Got a Jack shaft for the 6 speed in today. It came off of a Cobalt SS with a 5 speed. Kinda funny all the parts had Saab on them.

I'm going to mount the lights behind the fiberglass panel, only letting the lens protrude, and space the mesh grill about half an inch off of the fiberglass giving the tail a smoother more finished look. I will also cut out most of the center of the glass panel between the tail lights. I'm going to use thin sheet metal, like the real thing, for the figure eight bezels around the lights and for the trim around the screen. Well this is kinda my plan, but you know what they say all plans do change.


[This message has been edited by HTXtremes (edited 02-21-2008).]

ferrobi MSG #64, 02-21-2008 10:37 PM
      Looking good - love those F40's

DeLorean00 ( MSG #65, 02-22-2008 06:43 PM
      Thank God someone finally stretched an F40!!! I cant wait to see it done!!

Team Race-Tech MSG #66, 02-25-2008 10:49 PM
      What type of flywheel and clutch are you going to use?

HTXtremes ( MSG #67, 02-25-2008 11:28 PM
      Stock flexplate with custom made button flywheel and quartermaster triple disc clutch.
Flexplate will be for starter only, may even get it lightened.

mikebrnch MSG #68, 02-28-2008 05:35 PM
Originally posted by HTXtremes:

Got a Jack shaft for the 6 speed in today. It came off of a Cobalt SS with a 5 speed. Kinda funny all the parts had Saab on them.

I'm going to mount the lights behind the fiberglass panel, only letting the lens protrude, and space the mesh grill about half an inch off of the fiberglass giving the tail a smoother more finished look. I will also cut out most of the center of the glass panel between the tail lights. I'm going to use thin sheet metal, like the real thing, for the figure eight bezels around the lights and for the trim around the screen. Well this is kinda my plan, but you know what they say all plans do change.



I like your plans for the lights. For now I am going to keep mine looking stock. I agree about plans, keep your mind open to all ideas and continue to make the car your own. That quickly became my rule of thumb, if I counldn't have an EXACT F-40 replica I was going to make the F-40 replica I wanted. Working on the LM style light buckets at the moment and cutting the openings in the body. Keep it up.


fiero-iwan ( MSG #69, 02-28-2008 09:51 PM
      Hey James

You are creating a true work of art. Keep up the good work!

Hope you find time to work on your F40.
Thx for helping me with the shipping of my F40 across the pond to Holland.

This guy is doing a great job setting up international shipping from the seller to me. He helps me at no cost, thats outright friendlyness for you, hard to find these days.


twofatguys ( MSG #70, 02-28-2008 11:11 PM
      fiero-iwan, having met James I can verify that he is a great guy, he has went out of his way to help me when I was in hard times.
He is also a whiz on engines, and just about everything I've thrown at him so far.
The only real problem I have with him is that he won't just give me his F40


HTXtremes ( MSG #71, 02-28-2008 11:15 PM
      Tell you what Brad if you really want it I'll give you my car for what I've got in it! Might take a while to add up the boxes of receipts from the last year, but I'll get a price if you want one! LOl

twofatguys ( MSG #72, 02-28-2008 11:28 PM
Originally posted by HTXtremes fixed by twofatguys:

Tell you what Brad if you really want it I'll give you my car! I'll even finish it for you for free!

Wow, thanks man, you rock! LOL


HTXtremes ( MSG #73, 03-03-2008 04:31 PM
      Ok, I stole a camera from our office today so I could get some pics for the thread.

Just keep in mind I'm not a great welder by any means, I'm learning as I go, but how are you ever going to learn if you don't jump in there and try right?

first off we have the work stand I built, it utilizes the stock mounting points of the '88 cradle

next few pictures are of the passenger rear motor mount and jack-shaft mount

with jack-shaft in place

rear tranny mount

Passenger front motor mount and new alternator mount

last two picture are of the front tranny mount

HTXtremes ( MSG #74, 03-05-2008 12:16 AM
      Pair of turbos T3/T4

Work is slow when this is your drill press

new heater for the shop, 100,000 BTU

current stage of car

HTXtremes ( MSG #75, 03-10-2008 06:53 PM
      Updates on the roll bar

Got the roll bar mocked up and ready to be final welded, some pics follow, plates and some extra bracing will be added still.

Also a pic of a few of the emblems I got in the other day

mikebrnch MSG #76, 03-13-2008 12:46 PM
      looking GREAT!!! Any chance I might could see a side shot of your car to compare it to my non-stretched one????


Team Race-Tech MSG #77, 03-13-2008 09:14 PM
      I like the turbo's........

macphail8 ( MSG #78, 03-31-2008 10:11 PM
      Lookin' forward to pics of the interior as it progresses!

Cheers, Derek

SAFASTRO MSG #79, 04-18-2008 11:31 AM
      Bump to the top!!

SAFASTRO MSG #80, 05-25-2008 01:01 AM
      You out there??
Any updates??

Jakezilla3 MSG #81, 05-26-2008 10:44 AM
      updates?? I really liked where this project was going!

HTXtremes ( MSG #82, 06-02-2008 08:37 PM
      Sorry no updates been real busy around here, quit my job because shipped me out of town with no extra pay and was gone for four weeks. Haven't been online much in the past couple months cause my new girl I've been seeing.

Mostly I've been gathering some parts and packing away some funds for my build. Doesn't look like the F-40 will make it to the 25th! But I will keep posting on here with all my new finds and progress as it comes.

I just want to thank everyone for their support and enthusiasm in my build.

HTXtremes ( MSG #83, 06-24-2008 11:19 PM
      Ok for some updates!

Got a new crank in the mail the other day and some rods. Don't know how good of a brand they are, the crank is a Bryant Forged Billet, and the rods are Carrillo H-beams.

I have pictures but I guess PIP is still down.

HTXtremes ( MSG #84, 07-05-2008 10:30 AM

HTXtremes ( MSG #85, 07-06-2008 04:40 PM
      Some progress figured out the turn signals for the front. I used the front signals found behind the front bumper and trimmed the ends down to get the right length.

Next I've carved out about an eighth of an inch into the nose to recess the nose badge in a little, I still have to fill it back in some with resin to smooth it out.

next picture is with the emblem sitting in the recess,

here are the headlight covers that came with the kit, they still need to be trimmed down to the right size. These are made from 1/4" Lexan and are form fitted to the car.

A couple more pics from my stash. next two are better pics of the Ferrari 355/360/550/F50/475..... Tail lights, bought brand new for $750

HTXtremes ( MSG #86, 07-21-2008 10:05 PM
      Jumping into the next modification,

Went to a salvage yard in Joplin, MO today and bought the windshield surround from a '95 Eclipse.

Before trimming it down

Trimmed some fat off

Trimmed more and it is starting to fit better

HC MSG #87, 09-21-2008 02:54 PM
      Great job on the build! Those taillights are gonna look beautiful once installed, how far forward does the eclipse glass sit? A + for you sir.

DeLorean00 ( MSG #88, 09-21-2008 08:42 PM
      Very cool!! I love the windshield idea!!

3.6lvvt6spdgt MSG #89, 10-11-2008 10:40 PM
      need f40 help please

HTXtremes ( MSG #90, 10-26-2008 04:56 PM
      some new pics

and a side pic of a non stretch for comparison

[This message has been edited by HTXtremes (edited 10-26-2008).]

Fieromaineac ( MSG #91, 11-02-2008 11:14 PM
      A lot of talk by the F40 builder's group on kitcarsforum about this car, figured I better take a look. What I see is very interesting, keep up the good work!

HTXtremes ( MSG #92, 11-05-2008 08:04 PM
      Did not know there were people on other sites talking about my build! Makes me feel good that people are watching.

HTXtremes ( MSG #93, 11-05-2008 11:07 PM
      Some pics of my progress

Hey Mike I'm using that blue foam board you can get from Lowes for the shaping of the sides and for the ducting on the hood. It sands well with 80 grit sand paper, also making a mold for a third break light out of the same stuff.

mikebrnch MSG #94, 11-08-2008 07:50 PM
Originally posted by HTXtremes:

Some pics of my progress

Hey Mike I'm using that blue foam board you can get from Lowes for the shaping of the sides and for the ducting on the hood. It sands well with 80 grit sand paper, also making a mold for a third break light out of the same stuff.

Looks great. What do you plan to coat the foam board with? Resin, jelly etc. Or do you plan to use the foam just as a plug for a mold on the rear quarters like you are for the ducts?


[This message has been edited by mikebrnch (edited 11-08-2008).]

HTXtremes ( MSG #95, 11-09-2008 11:12 PM
      Hey mike I plan on just using the foam as a plug and then lay fiberglass and resin over it. I've been putting clear tape over the foam to keep it from melting from the resin.

HTXtremes ( MSG #96, 11-23-2008 01:37 PM
      Ok a couple updates, I've been posting on also with the same title as here.

Cut a little over 40 lbs off the front weighed

here is my factory parts single wiper arm w/ about 126 degrees of sweep

weight lose in the rear lost allot of weight in the rear not yet weighed the fat loss for the rear

matthewc ( MSG #97, 01-14-2009 11:08 PM
      Can't wait for more updates, my car should be arriving in Colorado tomorrow or Friday. I can't wait to get it here so I can start my build/rebuild. I would love to get more details on the windshield transplant. I have been looking at the Eclipse and Geo Storm windshield transplants.


HTXtremes ( MSG #98, 01-17-2009 08:13 PM
      Tube chassis is on its way!!

Got the base part of the frame done today!

G6 six speed is out, Audi 5 speed is in!

Will have some pics later tonight.

Amida ( MSG #99, 01-17-2009 11:01 PM
      Gotta see how you fit that audi transaxle.

HTXtremes ( MSG #100, 01-18-2009 12:29 AM
      People over on the Kitcarsforum have done lots of research and the audi A4 trans is only 7 inches from bell housing to center line of the axle. This means with a 24" long motor (northstar), an adapter (1"), and the trans you will have a pretty tight package. The rear firewall will have to move forward a little to clear though.

[This message has been edited by HTXtremes (edited 01-18-2009).]

RCR ( MSG #101, 01-18-2009 08:26 AM
      I like what you're doing. Lot's of good stuff here. I'm now interested in how you'll be mounting the power plant.


HTXtremes ( MSG #102, 04-08-2009 11:30 AM
      here are a few frame photos

Stubby79 MSG #103, 04-08-2009 11:27 PM
Originally posted by HTXtremes:

Ok a couple updates, I've been posting on also with the same title as here.

Cut a little over 40 lbs off the front weighed

I like it, been pondering the same. But what about frame ridgidity...won't it flex a lot more without at least leaving the wheel wells intact? (anyone else done this and notice any difference?)

HTXtremes ( MSG #104, 04-09-2009 12:04 PM
      This was what I was going to do before I decided to go full tube chassis. What I had planned on doing was to run a 1 5/8" cold rolled pipe from the fire wall to the radiator support making a hoop to strengthen the front back up without the weight. By removing the inner fenders and other metal on the front I removed 40-50 lbs on the low side maybe more.

HTXtremes ( MSG #105, 05-06-2009 02:37 PM
      Well the only update I can give at this time is that the "Tube Frame Fiero" is coming home with me!!

I've been talking to Don, the current owner and we are going to make a transfer of car to my hands in Casper,WY on the 23rd of this month. I am very excited to be bringing this work of art home with me!

whodeanie ( MSG #106, 05-06-2009 02:48 PM
Originally posted by HTXtremes:

Well the only update I can give at this time is that the "Tube Frame Fiero" is coming home with me!!

I've been talking to Don, the current owner and we are going to make a transfer of car to my hands in Casper,WY on the 23rd of this month. I am very excited to be bringing this work of art home with me!


FierociousGT MSG #107, 05-06-2009 04:21 PM
      HTXtremes, what are the dimensions to those rear Ferrari tail lights?


HTXtremes ( MSG #108, 05-06-2009 05:46 PM
      They are 6 inches to the widest point and 6 inches deep to the back of the plug base. You will just have to make sure to leave about 2.5 inches behind them to remove the back plate to access the bulbs. So if you were wondering if they would fit inside the fastback GT tail lights, they will, you just might have to cut some of the backing out of from behind the taillights so they will fit by mounting the factory way of the GT tail lights.

[This message has been edited by HTXtremes (edited 05-06-2009).]

HTXtremes ( MSG #109, 06-02-2009 12:57 AM
      Got a couple pics after I got the frame home

first one is of the ground clearance (it is not touching the ground, lacks about 1/4")

last one is where I removed the metal rear window

HTXtremes ( MSG #110, 07-20-2009 10:57 PM
      some updates of the motor in the tube chassis

Had to get a little color on it! lol this is with the Eclipse windscreen

Amida ( MSG #111, 08-29-2009 10:13 PM
      Is the chassis long enough for that long drivetrain? It looks like a tight squeeze.

HTXtremes ( MSG #112, 09-04-2009 09:32 PM
      It is very tight, if it had not been a custom chassis it would not have been long enough.

Amida ( MSG #113, 09-06-2009 12:00 PM
      Things look tight in your garage as well.

ltlfrari ( MSG #114, 11-25-2009 10:56 AM
      So have you abandoned your original build i favor of the tube frame?

I noticed in your other thread you said
Last night I sat my stretched F40 panels on it, the rockers were about an inch off the ground in the middle and a 1/4 inch in the rear. The front hood was an inch off the ground in the front and sitting on the tires

Were you implying it's not square?

355Fiero MSG #115, 11-25-2009 01:07 PM

The frame is square but the rockers of the F40 are deeper at the back and front height wise than in the middle so they are closer to the ground at each end.

I emailed James a couple weeks back about progress and he has moved the rear suspension mounts forward the 2" needed to get to the 96.5" wheelbase and down a couple inches to get a bit more ground clearance.

With this frame setup, I had planned on cutting some height out of the door and side panels of my project panels to move the rockers ups. The frame only has about 1" of rocker under the bottom of the door frames when Doug built it way back. If you shorten the door panels and the side panels, you also get back to a more oem look of the F40 as well since the Fiero builds needed to have higher side panels to fit on the Fiero frame. With this frame, you can cut the height out of the sides for a really good looking final product.


Carcenomy MSG #116, 11-26-2009 04:39 AM
      Yessss, another F40... epic!

Ten points if you decide to get super creative with glass and build a Competizione clone

Daniel H MSG #117, 11-28-2009 05:50 PM
      You all doing a lot of hard work, by stretching, widening, installing crazy motors and other stuffs! It's wondering me! Olny I have NOT understand: for what a hell you needed make replicas of a Ferrari's, Lambo's and other?! If you doing so lot of a work, why?? Why you don't make your own body? Don't you all want create your own design and embody it?

Amida ( MSG #118, 12-02-2009 01:53 AM
      It's a very challenging project for sure.

HTXtremes ( MSG #119, 12-19-2009 02:10 PM
      I would love to build a one off body but I've gotta start somewhere. One Day I will build a car from the ground up, but I would have to say that I have always dreamed of having a F40.

[This message has been edited by HTXtremes (edited 12-27-2009).]

HTXtremes ( MSG #120, 03-20-2010 10:33 PM
      Well the build is kinda on hold, gotta get into a new place nearly 4 hours away from my current house.

Moving from NW Arkansas to Kansas City, for work. Gotta get rid of my 30x40 shop here and get into a duplex with a two car garage.

Syn ( MSG #121, 08-05-2011 12:50 PM
      the 4.0/f40 transmission what kind of problems did you have when bolting them up? what had to be trimmed what parts did you use ext? and what transmission is on that now? so that it sits like a true Ferrari?

HTXtremes ( MSG #122, 08-05-2011 02:20 PM
      well you have to cut the webbing out of the top of the bell housing to clear the starter, and build a special bolt adapter for one bell housing bolt.

As for the tranny in the tube chassis, it is the G50 Porsche tranny.

Bwhit12 ( MSG #123, 08-10-2011 01:01 PM
      Looking good!!! I'm subscribed and waiting for updates!

HTXtremes ( MSG #124, 01-14-2012 01:23 AM
      Well the Tube chassis was sold and the work is being focused on my '88GT. It is getting an "iron block LS6" so to say, and the F40 trans. So I guess the '88 Coupe with the 3" stretch is still going to be built just not as soon as I'd planned, since I no longer have a shop to work in, so work is kinda hard to do.

As for the LS engine it started out as an LM7, bored .118" over, added hypereutectic pistons w/ coated skirts, balanced to within 1/2 gram, 243 casting heads from an '06 LS2 GTO, '06 GTO LS2 intake, heads had full roller shaft mount rockers, and going with a LS4 type pulley setup with custom water pump, not LS4.

I'll start a new build thread once I get started but first I have I have to swap the slushbox out for a stick.

355Fiero MSG #125, 01-16-2012 06:44 PM

Who ended up buying the frame from you? If you don't want to mention here, please PM or email me.