Fiero 2m8 LT1 NX Roadster conversion
Topic started by: Fiero2m8, Date: 03-16-2006 08:27 PM
Original thread: http://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum3/HTML/000055.html


Fiero2m8 MSG #1, 03-16-2006 08:27 PM
      Welcome!
Ryan here from Niagara (in the Great White North).
Now that my new member tag on PFF expired, I am ready to complete a hopefully great roadster home-build thread in Tech ?'s.
I recently organized my progess pictures to date (about 50) so I have some stuff to keep the thread alive until the summer for the PFF fiero-natics like me.
Hopefully I'll be on the road enjoying open air cruise nights and shows with fellow Fiero owners by then!

Here is a brief (edit "detailed") chain of events prior to the start of my build in Jan 2006

1983 - First ride in my Aunt's GM company car Fiero 2m4 (white) - I was 12 and loved it, but told her that my Dad said it was "gutless" - hmmm, could it be a sign of things to come?

2000 - Became very interested in Fiero based kit cars. My family is all GM, but I always had Jeep/VW/BMW as I wanted more unique sport vehicles. The Fiero was a very unique vehicle that would also satisfy all the relatives working at GM. Shortly after I found out that my Grandmother's friend bought a new Fiero in 1986 and still had it!
I went to the see it at the library where she worked - all original gold 35K mile 1986 Fiero Sport Coupe with the 2.5L auto.
Only noticeable issues were the ripped drivers seat bolster, faded paint and auto trans (I was hoping for a manual but beggers can't be choosers). She loved it too much, but I said if she ever parts with it - tell my Grandma as I wanted first right to buy it.

2002 - Grandma called to suprise me that the car was for sale! I asked how much and she said $1!!! I went over that day with flowers, wine and a "loonie" to pick up her baby, the Fiero. They bought a Buick and she didn't need the Fiero as she retired but wanted it to go to a good home. I boosted the battery, put a little air in the tire (13" steel rim) and drove it home! Cleaned up the car and found 10 cents under the seat that more than covered the eight cents I had to pay in tax to plate it.

2004 - After 2 years of driving an all original Fiero as a 3rd car, I got the itch to do a body kit or engine swap, but what to do first?
I eventually decided that a "sleeper" Fiero with a V8 would be a lot of fun - this is the point of no return when any spare change went into the Fiero mods and it was no longer the one dollar car. I did a lot of research on Archie's V8 kit and knew his kit was second to none. Best of all it, satisfied my need for under 5 second 0-60 acceralation! It was the classic formula of big engine in a little light car with a bonus of all the weight right in front of the rear wheels. Every local car crazy guy I talked to said the LT1 was the engine to have and I found a 1994 iron head LT1 ad in the local paper and beat 20 other guys to it for $700 complete. I was scared about the wiring so I shipped harnesses and computers to California to have them married together - never got them back, DOH! Soon I was worried that I would never get my Archie kit finished but I bought a Fiero computer on eBay and called Street and Performance to build a ODBI computer/harness for me. Thanks to Archie's video and some patience I got the kit completed in spring of 2005 after almost a year of downtime
Replaced the brakes, added a few body mods and hit the local cruise nights and shows after enjoying the rumours of "A Fiero around town with somethin' in it!" After disgracing every local teenager in an import tuner that didn't know what a Fiero or an LT1 was, I was put the car in the garage for the winter in the fall with a big smile on my face.

2006 - New Year's Day I made the decision to start an even more challenging Fiero project as I couldn't wait for spring. The plan was to upgrade to a performance beefed up and rebuilt 4T60 Cadillac STS transmission. A week later I convinced myself that "since the motor is out and it is over 10 years old I should have it rebuilt too". Of course the rebuilt motor would have ported heads, comp cam, 0.60 over JE forged pistons, reversed intake, headers, and a Nitrous Express LT1 Direct Port Kit installed. None of this was feasible with the stock 125C trans but since the bugs on the swap were all worked out it, was time for "Show and Go". With the Fiero empty and nothing to do since I enlisted pros to rebuild the drivetrain, I thought..."I always loved and wanted a roadster, should I go for it?" After some research on the internet and a rationalization that the car with be for shows and is already impractical and not needed as a daily driver - I thought this would be the most fun way to not go down the kit car road. The Fiero pride had grown within me and I didn't want to disguise it as something else. The roadster would be very cool and unique for around here...and now that the snowball was big enough, project Fiero 2m8 Roadster is underway!!!

Here is the last pic of my Fiero before the project started. I started it up and pulled it out of the garage for all too see and hear! The picture was taken in the wee hours New Years Day during my hot tub party.
I call this picture : "Hey Dave - easy with the fire next to my Fiero - they don't get along too well"

More of the build update to come regularly a little at a time, so you don't have to keep bumping or TTT...if you read this far, put it in your favorites... Rye



Fiero2m8 MSG #2, 03-18-2006 10:23 PM
      O.K.

Here are the first few pics of the build:

From most of the reading on roadsters I did, a subframe was essential to reinforce the spaceframe.
I had a local welding shop build this x-frame. I modified the design to allow the center X to be unbolted for gas tank access.

After measuring several times, I lowered the car onto the x-frame and aligned it so the car was square on its new subframe.
The whole assembly sat on four jackstands and before welding it in, I bolted it with 10 - 1/2" bolts - (3 through each rocker, 2 through the front frame rails and 2 through the rear frame rails at the firewall)

Before cutting the roof, I removed the engine, transmission and cradle to reduce weight since I was planning to have them rebuilt anyways:

Here is the car ready for the rear window and roof to be removed:

Next update coming soon...


Fiero2m8 MSG #3, 03-19-2006 09:53 PM
      When I removed the interior, I was amazed how solid the floor pan was!
I repaired some surface rust around the tin/rubber knock outs and a little rust around the back of the seats probably from a previous window or sunroof leak long ago. The rust was cut out and new sheet metal will be installed. The carpet is in good shape although tan hides the dirt well. I am looking into having them professional cleaned before reinstallation...

First I removed the rear window the fun, quick and easy way with a sledgehammer I call "The Enforcer".
Note the mess of wiring around the second ECM - its funny that this time I didn't bother to label everything as it's "old hat". I feel sorry for Archie when he has to explain and repeat himself for many new engine swap kit customers who are tenatively cutting into their harness for the first time


After removing the windshield bodywork (a pain dealing with the butyl rope), I am ready to cut the roof with my trusty sawsall in the following order:

1. Cuts on both sides at the back edge of the door windo to the sunroof opening.
2. Cuts on both sides at the front edge of the sunroof opening.
3. Test the targa for flex - no movement in the rear section but the windshield did flex - it will need reinforcement later.
4. Rough cuts on both sides of the notch to lift the rear section of the roof off.
5. Final cuts on both sides of the notch at the same height as the grill vents.
6. Final cut on the windshield to follow the its natural curve.

Here is a picture before the the notches had the final cuts done:

I was very pleased with the new open air roadster look - why didn't they sell these from the factory?

The next installment will be available after 50-100 more views - Ryan


exoticse (exoticse@netzero.com) MSG #4, 03-19-2006 10:50 PM
     
Looking good Ryan !

Do you plan to mold those fender flares in ?

Fiero2m8 MSG #5, 03-19-2006 11:13 PM
      Yes the flares and front skirt (which I haven't shown yet) will be glassed in smooth before paint in the spring.
Thanks for posting...


opm2000 (davidbreeze@windstream.net) MSG #6, 03-20-2006 06:17 AM
      Way to go, Ryan ! As another '94 LT1 owner, I'd like to hear more about your 4t60 swap.

Cool project.


David Beeze



xgamefan MSG #7, 03-20-2006 10:15 AM
      Sweet..no guts no glory! hope you keep up the post and pics. Im installing a V8 conversion now and my buddy is trying to talk me into chopping the top, but a roadster...now that sounds pretty cool too! And hey what kind of fender flares are those?

Arns85GT (arnellen@rogers.com) MSG #8, 03-20-2006 10:18 AM
      Cool

Keep'em comin'.

Arn

Fiero2m8 MSG #9, 03-20-2006 11:05 AM
      Flares and hood vents shown in sig are from a 1989 Pontiac Sunbird Turbo that I plan to blend in with fiberglass.
Side skirts and front apron were from a 1990 Crysler Daytona Turbo - they had to be shortened and I added driving lights in them.
Rear wing was off a 1992 Chev Lumina Z34 but I plan to change to a Camaro 3rd gen lip spoiler.
All was found at the wreckers after some wandering around with a tape measure.
The nice thing is that you know you are making the car unique for under $50.
At a couple shows, the rumour was that only the Japanese market Fiero's came with flares so it must be from Japan. I'm not sure about that one, but I took it as a compliment that they looked factory installed.



Fiero2m8 MSG #10, 03-20-2006 09:15 PM
      O.K. - I sent the link out to some friends / family today and added 150 views so I'd better post something...I heard the link was making the rounds with some engineers at the GM engine plant. (who will have their opinions I'm sure, so I sent them Archie's LS1 Solstice pics - that should keep them busy for a while...)

xgamefan - although I love the choptops, I sat in a 5" one last year and at 6'1" it wasn't even an option for me, so that was when I knew the roadster was for me.

omp2000 - hopefully there are others out there who already mated a 4T60 with a LT1 and will answer my ?'s later...but yes I will post it's progress. I have been using these two links as a good source of info:
http://spacecoastfieros.com/tech/440%2D4T60/
http://fp.enter.net/~rockcrawl/4T60a.html

I got a 1990 Cadillac STS 4T60 for rebuild. My goal was to make it stronger and accelerate as quick as possible. Since I was gaining a gear I could afford to increase the gear ratio. For strength a hardened part kit was ordered. The 2.84 Final drive was swapped for a 3.33 final drive. Then the sprockets and chain were changed to a 37/32 combo. This gives a overall ratio of 3.73 A transgo shift kit was also installed and the Caddy torque converter was replaced with a more LT1 torque friendly 1675rpm stall. I wanted to go with a 2200-2500 stall but several shops recommended to drop approx 600rpm as the 4T60 was designed for V6's and V8 with less torque than the LT1. It should feel like 2300 when I'm done, and I might save an axle or two

Here is a pic of the 4T60 back from fresh rebuild and primed:

I planned on painting the intake LT4 red this time around and since my TH125c was aluminum, I painted the trans red so you can easily tell it isn't the same transmission - something different that my neighbour suggested...

Since I already overworked a V6 fuel pump last summer, I thought now would be the right time to upgrade it to a 255lph pump given the mods. Its a Walbro pump branded Holley and is a direct swap for the Fiero if you order one for a Buick Grand National. Here it is:

This way I don't need to add an MSD inline pump at this time - they are noisier, but the option is still available in the future.
Here are the two pumps, and you can see they are identical in size:

Of course I had to drop the tank and try out my removable x-frame Here is the gas tank sanded and painted with some cast iron grey I had laying around:

Now the tank is back in and the x-frame replaced with no issues. Only primer the frame for now - painting the underside with come later but it's a good time to show what it looks like installed from underneath:

What do you think so far?
Stay tuned...

[This message has been edited by Fiero2m8 (edited 04-08-2006).]

BERKELUSA MSG #11, 03-22-2006 09:58 PM
      Same here.. rock on!, I'm still on mine and going stronger than ever lately.. Enjoy !

Rob



Fiero2m8 MSG #12, 03-23-2006 01:41 AM
      Thanks Rob - plus for you since I've spent hours following your build to get ideas and inspiration...your pictures and attention to detail I aspire too!

Ryan

Fiero2m8 MSG #13, 03-23-2006 08:34 PM
      O.K. another update...

Even though I oversized the x-frame design to 2-1/2 x 2-1/2, I still felt that more bracing would be required for a LT1 engine.

The plan was to wrap around the existing rust free rockers and build a rollbar style brace to tie the x-frame to the firewall.
I had extra steel so I explored the b-pillars and found that if I could get the angle right 2-1/2 box could fit and strengthen it substantially for a nice solid door closing.

The top of the firewall would receive 1" x 2" box to bring the height near flush with the rear deck.
Once everything was cut to fit its would be bolted then welded in position.
The last place I looked into extra bracing was in the rear wheelwells behind the pillar.
Hopefully now I have enough extra steel added to limit flex when the big V8 torques.

Here are the pics showing the rocker and firewall upgrades

View of mods in primer

Passenger side door jam showing 30"x6"x3/16" plate with top plate welded and 3 - 4"x1/2" bolts through rocker and x-frame

View of rear wheelwell brace from x-frame to rear of b-pillar

Here is a view of the driver's rocker in paint showing the rocker mods

And an overview shot of the subframe from the x-frame to the top of the firewall

Hopefully this with give me the strength of a roll bar while maintaining the stock look as none of it will be visible.
I estimate that after removing the roof weight and then adding so much steel - the net difference is about 100 pounds.
A trip to the local landfill site for a weigh in upon completion should prove I'm still under 3000lbs.
The car weighed in at 2857lbs curb weight without driver in stock form.

Next pictures will show windshield mods then after that I will be shaping the b-pillar covers.

Ryan



Alex4mula (torres_a@hotmail.com) MSG #14, 03-23-2006 09:07 PM
      This is moving quickly. Hope to see the end product soon. Going to be a lot of fun



Fiero2m8 MSG #15, 03-25-2006 02:56 PM
      As promised here are a few pictures of the windshield mods...

For extra strenght 3/4" solid bar was run inside the length of the A-pillar.
It's a very tight fit, but with a little grinding on one of the corners, they went in and provided some extra strength.

To cap the windshield with sheet metal - I grabbed a length of drive cleat and unfolded the tabs into a "C" shape.
Then I formed it to follow the contour of the windshield and spot welded it on the top and bottom as I went along.

Here is a shot from the back that shows the sheet metal welded in place ready for fiberglass finish work to come much later


Working on the B-pillars now and will post pictures when they are done.

Rye




Fiero2m8 MSG #16, 03-27-2006 12:56 PM
      It's Piller time...

The goal is to blend the height transition from the door to the rear deck.
Fastbacks don't have this problem, but most guys wouldn't cut a fastback roof off anyways
The plan was to:

- make a cardboard pattern
- trace it onto sheet metal
- flip over and repeat for the other side
- cut out patterns with shears
- pretend I'm good with a brake
- pretend I'm a good spot welder

Luckily everything with be covered in fiberglass later - he are the pictures...

Cardboard pattern (wasn't a cereal box but similar thickness for easy cutting / shaping

Transferred pattern with spray paint (no sharpie handy)

Used my 3' brake to make nice sharp bends

This is what piece looked like just before install (upside down)

Test fit before some trimming and welding them in

This gives an idea of the final profile (please note it is sitting too high in this pic prior to welding)

Since there's so many things to do, I'm going to switch over to some suspension / cradle prep next for some variety


Fiero1Fan (fiero1fan@fieros.eu) MSG #17, 03-28-2006 05:29 AM
      Maybe I'm blind but where did the fender-flairs come from?



3800superfast MSG #18, 03-28-2006 08:34 AM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by Fiero1Fan:

Maybe I'm blind but where did the fender-flairs come from?

I think they are from a 1989 Pontiac Sunbird Turbo, this is a cool thread...


Fiero2m8 MSG #19, 03-28-2006 03:07 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by Fiero2m8:

Flares and hood vents shown in sig are from a 1989 Pontiac Sunbird Turbo that I plan to blend in with fiberglass.
Side skirts and front apron were from a 1990 Crysler Daytona Turbo - they had to be shortened and I added driving lights in them.
Rear wing was off a 1992 Chev Lumina Z34 but I plan to change to a Camaro 3rd gen lip spoiler. (edit: or maybe a Dodge Shadow spoiler - hmm...)
All was found at the wreckers after some wandering around with a tape measure.
The nice thing is that you know you are making the car unique for under $50.
At a couple shows, the rumour was that only the Japanese market Fiero's came with flares so it must be from Japan. I'm not sure about that one, but I took it as a compliment that they looked factory installed.


Thanks 3800superfast
Yah it is already in this thread.

[This message has been edited by Fiero2m8 (edited 04-05-2006).]

Fiero2m8 MSG #20, 03-29-2006 09:20 PM
      A few pictures of the vacant engine bay and custom trunk...

Dropped in new sheet metal truck approx 6" shallower so you don't see it from the rear.
The rotten old trunk was removed except for the front side that now acts as a heat shield (only side that was rust and dent free)

I recently bought Greg's "High Performance Fieros" book and liked how they removed all the tabs to smooth out the engine compartment, so I grinded smooth and repainted bay with a tuff textured trunk bed lining spray.
Here's how it came out

I wanted to keep the engine compartment black - it came out looking better than I expected

This time around I added 2 additional frame reinforcements inside the passenger side frame rail.
They are 3/16" angle iron that are bolted and welded to create a subframe inside the rails.

Here is a shot of the outside frame rail with a large angle iron bolted, welded and grinded to clear the 245 tires.
Soon I will have the rebuilt LT1 back with a reversed intake, however the strut tower notch will make any future servicing of the stock LT1 water pump or Optispark distributor a breeze.
I also tidied up the hinge box notch - it is larger than required because I was going to use Dart heads, but they were not designed for reverse flow cooling - the stock ported / polished heads with stainless valve covers with fit with plenty of clearance to spare.

Time to get out in the garage and do some work worthy of taking new pictures of...

[This message has been edited by Fiero2m8 (edited 04-08-2006).]

Fiero2m8 MSG #21, 03-31-2006 04:46 PM
      I changed the exhaust from twin tips to larger muffler tips and new catalytic converters - they bolt directly to the hugger headers.


Painted the washer bottle black and the coolant bottle aluminum since they were vitually opaque anyways.
This is the beginning of my plan to dress up the front compartment that all non-Fiero folks ask to see...

Had a local sheet metal shop build me a custom battery box that I clear coated.
I will be fabbing a mount for it to sit where the spare used to be.

Picked up this battery relocation kit at a local speed shop designed to mount the battery in the trunk of your Camaro.
My logic suggests I can use it for my opposite install although I won't use the full 16 feet of cable...

I accidently broke the antenna off at the base last summer, so I removed it from the front fender and will fill the hole.

Then I remembered that I bought a power antenna that I had planned to install in the rear fender but never got around to it - hmmm, maybe I will use it if I can find a spot that I will be happy with.

[This message has been edited by Fiero2m8 (edited 04-08-2006).]

Fiero2m8 MSG #22, 04-01-2006 02:03 PM
      I sprayed a black top coat on the floor boards so I have a clean surface to reinstall the carpeting on later

Rather than rubberized undercoating, I finished the underside with more truck bed lining spray I had left over

I had a couple pin holes in my fuel filler neck so I trying buying a used fuel filler pipe from a local shop - they just had to remove it from the car.
When I went to pick it up, the guy had cut it in half because he had "trouble getting it out"!
Rather that have a new one made with my ends, I cleaned mine up to bare metal, filled the holes and then heat shrunk the pipe.
It came out quite nice, and saved me a few bucks as it just took patience to get it done.





Fiero2m8 MSG #23, 04-02-2006 06:35 PM
      As promised here are some pictures of the work on the engine cradle.

The cradle was replaced two years ago as it was rotten in one of the front corners - here is a shot of it out of the car this time, pretty nasty looking...

One of the things I wanted to try was the bump steer improvement as outlined in the High Performance Fieros book.
It involves reversing the toe link mounting tabs and shortening the rods by 2 inches - here are a few shots of that mod

After all the surface rust was grinded off, I sprayed it with truck bed liner to give it a tough finish

The control arms were also grinded, sanded recoated after drilling out the stock riveted in ball joints

Here is a shot of the links after they were shortened (by a local weld shop), new ball joints installed, heat shrunk and painted...

Next, it was time to install the new Prothane polt kits in the cradle and the rear control arms
I burnt them out and highly recommend doing this outside - "note to self"
I used the freezer method to shrink them a little before greasing them and installing the new poly bushings - here are a couple completed pics:

The new ball joints were bolted on the rear control arms and the hardware I got from an 87 GT was painted aluminum and installed with the cradle mounts

Next I am deciding what to do on the suspension...but at least I'm ready and prepped to receive the motor back, hopefully in a couple week's time.

Ryan




Fiero2m8 MSG #24, 04-04-2006 01:42 PM
      O.K. I decided to limit the suspension work to some minimal mods.
The brakes rotors, calipers, lines were replaced 3 years ago so I will save a big brake mod for next winter.
This project is already a big undertaking and since I want to be back on the road this spring I need to avoid getting too sidetracked.
Since I will probably eventually go to rear coilovers and rebuild the front suspension, it seemed like a good time to experiment with the stock ride height.
If it doesn't work out no biggie, as this is 20 year old stock stuff anyways...

With the rear supension, I managed to remove a coil without complete disassemby and then grinded, sanded and repainted the rear struts.

Before:

After:

Upon closer inspection on the front suspension, it was quite apparent that the original shocks were still in place!
Once I removed them I confirmed that they were strictly ornamental, as they operated as freely as a trombone

Here are the poor guys beside the new KYB's:

Next with the sway bar links removed and to be replaced, I took 1-1/2 coils out of the front springs without removing the suspension.
In order to do this you need to use a 4-1/2" cutoff grinder.
Step 1 - cut at the 1-1/2 coil mark from the bottom .
Step 2 - remove the unwanted piece by cutting in into 3rds and pulling out.
Step 3 - remove the front bump stops.

Here is the spring ready to be cut:

Pieces of front coil removed:

This is the front passenger suspension with shortened spring mod, new KYB shock and sway bar link installed


Next winter I plan to do a front poly kit, upgraded sway bar, and bigger brakes.

Soon I will be starting the engine/tranny swap which should attract some replies...
Until then I'm going to be working on the body, interior, and front compartment.

Fiero2m8

[This message has been edited by Fiero2m8 (edited 04-08-2006).]

Fiero2m8 MSG #25, 04-07-2006 11:03 PM
      Stopped by to check on the engine and it's ready for final reassembly.

Harry G was looking for some pictures of my custom made billet aluminum remote oil filter adapter - here they are.
It provides a strong seal with rubber O-rings instead of a gasket and provides addtional clearance to the starter.

If anyone is interested, I will take some measurements so you can have your own made.


Sourmug MSG #26, 04-07-2006 11:16 PM
      Great thread! It looks like it is all coming together nicely for you. I was thinking of doing the tie rod modification on my cradle as well. I'll be interested in hearing your opinion on how it affected the handliong of your car once it's back on the road.

A + for you!

Nolan

Fiero2m8 MSG #27, 04-07-2006 11:48 PM
      Thanks Nolan.
To be fair, I'm not sure how accurate my opinion on the bump steer correction will be.
There is a lot going on at once - poly mounts/bushings, lowering, etc. not to mention removing the roof!
Maybe someone else has tried it as a stand alone mod?
The geometry made sense in theory to me from what I have read, so I thought I would try it since you don't have to buy any parts.



California Kid MSG #28, 04-08-2006 08:06 AM
      Just to let you know, I ran the same exact Holley packaged fuel pump in my '88 GT, and it only lasted 13 months. I'm mentioning this, as it looks like it is a bit of work to drop your tank with your conversion.

Fiero2m8 MSG #29, 04-08-2006 10:39 AM
      Thanks for the info - I already killed a V6 pump in 4 months, so I had to try something else.
When this one fails, I may go with an external type or stock pump with an addtional inline pump.
You're right that it's even less fun changing the pump with an X-brace installed - luckily it has the removeable X...


Fiero2m8 MSG #30, 04-10-2006 04:14 PM
      This is the info from spacecoastfieros.
Looks like I will have to find a early 4T60 governor with the 3.33 ratio - wish me luck
I was hoping to swap the 125c governor but it says the cover won't fit?

The governor ľ speedometer assembly is located on top of the transmission above the passenger side axle shaft coupling on both the 4T60 and TH125C.

There are 3 variations of speedometer assemblies that I have seen on 4T60 transmissions. One type is almost exactly the same as the one used on the TH125C transmission and will plug directly into the Fiero speedometer connector. A 2nd type is almost the same as the first except the speed sensor (item 1) has been replaced with an assembly that screws into a mechanical speedometer cable. This type can be used if reassembled with speedometer sensor from your old transmission. Both the mechanical cable and sensor type speedometer assemblies are held in place by a 1-inch wire clip on the top of the governor cover. NOTE: The TH125C governor cover (item 3) is NOT interchangeable with the 4T60.

A 3rd type is an electronic pulse generator assembly that looks quite different from the original TH125C governor speedometer sensor. The electrical connector and more importantly the signal generated by this unit are not compatible with the Fiero. If your transmission has one of these units the entire assembly must be replaced with one of the previously mentioned types. CAUTION: Check with the supplier or rebuilder of the transmission before changing parts on it to avoid voiding any warrantees.

It should be noted also that while the governor assemblies from various 4T60 transmissions look the same, there are small differences in the fly weights that control the shift points. The governor assembly's weights are matched to the final drive's gear ratio. If you change the final drive ratio make sure the governor assembly you use comes from a transmission with the same ratio. Using a different governor will work but the transmission may shift at too low or too high a rpm for optimum performance.

I'm wondering how may rpm the shift point will change by going from a 2.84 to a 3.33 ratio.
Also would the shift points get higher or lower in the rpm band?

A couple ?'s for the engineering minds out there.

Fiero2m8

Fiero2m8 MSG #31, 04-10-2006 11:50 PM
      I was looking for a change of pace and something a little more fun to design and work on so...
I removed the spare tire and jack, repainted and made a custom hole 13" x 7".

Measured up and had the local sheet metal guy "Larry" make me up a shelf to drop in the hole.

Installed the shelf and it fits very well - I'll give a plus rating to anyone who correctly guesses what it is for.

I should have this compartment mod finished soon.


LT188GT (eal4ever@bellsouth.net) MSG #32, 04-11-2006 12:10 AM
      Room for an amp for your stereo?

RCR (rcrabine@comcast.net) MSG #33, 04-11-2006 07:51 AM
      Battery Box you had the sheet metal guy bend up for you and said was going where the spare used to be?

Bob


Fiero2m8 MSG #34, 04-11-2006 10:38 AM
      You're both very close - another hint...
The spare and jack won't be going back in



RCR (rcrabine@comcast.net) MSG #35, 04-11-2006 12:00 PM
      OK, How about something like this:

Bob
btw, that's my car


Fiero2m8 MSG #36, 04-12-2006 11:07 AM
      Thanks guys + for you as they are great ideas.
Here I go with stereo mod progress - first a few opening comments.

1. I determined the stock setup wasn't sufficient in a V8 Fiero with a roof, so removing the roof (including the rear speakers) required some upgrades to be able to hear it while driving.
2. This a home build budget - not Unique Whips, so no JL audio etc. and so far no manufacturers have donated and shipped me free product like Overhaulin' etc.
3. I have 2- Pioneer CD 50x4 decks now I can use - I am probably going with the older one even though it doesn't flip down because it has a roadster friendly detachable face plate.
4. I wanted to use components that are available at local big box stores for value pricing and convenience.
5. Rather than a mix match system I had the opportunity to use components all from the same manufacturer - in this case Pioneer.

Here are the components I am adding and need to find a location to install them.

4 - 4x10 2-way speakers

2 - 10" subs

1 - 2-channel amp for the subs

Installing 2 4x10's in the dash was easy - they drop right in:

The subs and rear 4x10's on the other hand are a different story...

More to come soon

Fiero2m8 MSG #37, 04-13-2006 02:03 AM
      Found a home for the other pair of 4x10's
Hid them in the lower b-pillars in the old vent location - I think this let air escape when you closed the door with the windows up (correct me if I'm wrong)
The vents would no longer be required on my roadster from my perspective.
Then needed to be ovaled out a little with snips and an angle grinder.
A little spray foam and some sound deadening spray was used in the approx .5 sq ft cavity.
The existing wiring reaches nicely.
It looks like I don't even need grills as the existing vent grill is almost the right size - time will tell.
My apologies if someone else has done this before.
I am happy when my ideas are already proven with other owners who had success doing similar mods.

Here are a few shots of them installed:

Canadian beer in the background

Close up of passenger side install

Driver's side

Trim in place

This achieves my goal of a stock looking interior with no visible speakers.

Fiero2m8



Fiero2m8 MSG #38, 04-13-2006 05:05 PM
      Update - the front compartment is sorted out and completed.
Everything is a snug fit but a .75 cubic foot sub box, custom metal battery box and slightly relocated washer bottle are all in place.

Here is the battery setup:

And some overall shots from different views:

I'm pretty happy with the end result as it looks tidy and neat.
The battery ground exits the bottom of the box through the frame and bolted to the frame rail.
The positive exits the rear of the box and through an existing hole to follow the heater tubes to the starter.
There is room to cover everything up with the sunroof panel to give you a idea of the clearance to the body.

Happy Easter everyone!

Fiero2m8 MSG #39, 04-15-2006 10:21 AM
      In prep for getting the engine back, I thought I'd better figure out what I'll need to get the transmission ready for the cradle.
A new 10" Torque converter with a 1675 stall is in and ready to go.

Here are the some parts replaced when the trans was beefed up:
Old 2.84 final drive to make room for the new 3.33 ratio unit.
Old sprockets and chain as a new 37/32 teeth combo was used to get an overall ratio of 3.73


The switch will be swapped so it is plug and play with my harness - one hole will need to be slotted slightly.

The dipstick from the TH125c would give the proper clearance to the trunk but the bracket doesn't line up so I'll pick up a 4T60 tube off a mid to late 80's Pontiac or Buick with the 4T60 trans.

Since I went with a 1990 STS 4T60, it had a pulse type VSS so I need to grab the older version 4T60 cap and VSS while I'm getting the dipstick, tranny brackets, and a 5 pin trans plug at the wreckers.

Once I have the 4T60 unit, I can drop it in after swapping out this green gear from my TH125c unit.
I was hoping to install the new cap 180 degrees from stock so I have better clearance from the header flange - does anyone know if it will still work properly?
Otherwise I will probably have to modify the header and exhaust to keep the plug from melting.

Next I plan to put the carpeting back in the car, re-install fuel filler pipe and look for a place to install the cooling pipes now that the X-frame is installed.

Fiero2m8

[This message has been edited by Fiero2m8 (edited 04-15-2006).]

Fiero2m8 MSG #40, 04-17-2006 12:19 AM
      Cut and fit the new insulation to go under the cleaned carpets and interior trim.
It should reduce heat and provide a little sound deadening.

Had a little mishap with the rear deck - it was propped up and the garage door damaged it while opening.
Before fixing it, I am going to look for one without luggage rack holes that would save me a lot of time filling them.

The last thing I got to this weekend was to add some foam that I can build my fiberglass off of to smooth out the B-pillar areas.

Once it cures I am going to shape it down to get an idea of the finished shape before doing the bodywork.


Custom2M4 (custom2m4@hotmail.com) MSG #41, 04-17-2006 01:08 AM
      That looks alot like Spray can foam... Not really the best idea in the world....

This foam
A - Gives off gases, so if you fiberglass over it and seal it, it will bubble through the fiberglass...
B - The fiberglass will melt it and create a nasty mess (I would know )
C - Not the best stuff to use.....

I would have spoken sooner... But... Just don't fiberglass that before covering it.... with plaster... duct tape.... anything! Then when you fiberglass what you need, remove that piece, and gut out that foam, then install the fiberglass piece again.

Nice thread so far!
Just some words from a worried fiero nut !


Fiero2m8 MSG #42, 04-17-2006 07:37 PM
      Thanks Custom2m4! - I've still got the crap on my fingers so I guess it's not good for fiberglass either.
It's reassuring to know that with over 1800 views, members will give a "heads up" when I forget to ask ?'s.
Hopefully I'll keep the stupid ideas to a minimum

On another note, I call a local Fiero owner today for a notchie decklid.
Turns out he is a "former" owner that took a load of fenders, nose cones etc to the dump 2 weeks ago.
However, he still has a decklid for me I'm picking up by the end of the week.
When I go over I'm going to see what else is left from his 3800 choptop conversion project.
I don't have much room to store extra parts, but if you're after something specific let me know and I'll check for you.

Ryan

P.S. Thanks for not rubbing the ownership of page 2 in...

[This message has been edited by Fiero2m8 (edited 04-17-2006).]

Fiero2m8 MSG #43, 04-19-2006 01:02 AM
      Look what I scored at the wreckers today for $20 for the lot - if I use a couple of the items it will be worth it!

Automatic shifter before:

1994 Camaro Z28 Auto Shift Knob:

GM factory FWD stress bar:

1990 Pontiac Sunbird Convertible parts:


Header (needs a colour change and new dome light)

Windshield trim at A-Pillars:

Visors with mirrors that screw to the trim above:

4T60 Trans parts:
Dipstick tube from 1990 Olds 88 3800.
VSS from 1986 Cadillac Deville.
5-prong Trans plug from 1992 Buick LeSabre

Now I can prep my 1990 STS trans with the pulse VSS to to be mated to the LT1


Fiero2m8 MSG #44, 04-19-2006 12:48 PM
      Some shots of the trans prepped with VSS, filler tube, brackets, TV cable, Park/Neutral switch and trans plug installed/painted.

The holes in the Fiero park neutral switch had to be slotted but now it is plug and play with my harness.
I used the Fiero TH125 TV cable since it is longer and easy to adjust.
I doubt the tailshaft bracket will work without an adapter as the SBC and Caddy holes are probably different and I am using Archie's adapter plate.
The main mount will be able to be used by sloting or redrilling the cradle holes once the engine is mounted and mated to the trans.
I will have to come up with a solution for the exhaust header as this governor will interfere with the header collector.
The filler tube is longer than the TH125, so I may have to shorten it to match the 125's length and use the 125 dipstick inside the tube - we'll see.
The VSS plug matches my harness plug.

I need info on how to splice my trans plug wires (four prong) harness to the Caddy five wire plug - anyone know the colour match ups?

Thanks,
Fiero2m8


Fiero2m8 MSG #45, 04-21-2006 01:28 AM
      Maybe I've been watching "Pinks" on Speed too much, but here is my latest addition to the project!



Here is the link to the kit and installation instructions.

http://www.nitrousexpress.com/Pages/80010.htm



Fiero2m8 MSG #46, 04-23-2006 01:09 PM
      I've had a couple dozen PM's on the fender flares.
As previously mentioned they were 1989 Pontiac Sunbird Turbo flares.
Only the Turbo model had them.
You mount them through existing screw holes in the inner lip to the wheel well liner.
Since the Sunbird wheelwells are smaller, they simulate a lowered look when installed on the Fiero.
Here is a picture of a Sunbird Turbo with the flares installed from the factory.
I also grabbed the hood vents from the same vehicle to provide my new 4-core rad fan with an easier exhaust path.

Ryan





RCR (rcrabine@comcast.net) MSG #47, 04-23-2006 05:26 PM
      Umm...Nice background graffitti. This is a family place, you know..

Mister MSG #48, 04-23-2006 07:07 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by RCR:
Umm...Nice background graffitti. This is a family place, you know..


What's wrong with an upside down EGR Valve graffiti ?

Great build thread Fiero2m8 Keep up the good work!

[This message has been edited by Mister (edited 04-23-2006).]

Fiero2m8 MSG #49, 04-23-2006 09:03 PM
      Oh man - glad it's not my neighbourhood!
I didn't even notice the drawings, I wouldn't take a picture of my car there

Today's progress was on the upper seat belt mounts and the windshield trim.

The upper mount was bolted through the roll bar and firewall with 4"x1/2" bolts.
It operates very well and doesn't bind or twist at all.
You can also see the fuel release lever has been relocated to the firewall.


Fiero2m8
Here are some shots of the Sunbird convertible parts installed.
I painted the visors and headliner with black fabric paint.
Then everything was drilled and screwed into place.
I was surprised how well everything fit with very little modification.












Fiero2m8 MSG #50, 04-27-2006 12:03 PM
      Not much to report:

Picked up a new brake booster filter - according to the Big Fiero Book, a common source of vacuum leaks due to heat cycling near the exhaust manifold.

Mine was original - here is the new one.



Fiero2m8


Fastback 86 MSG #51, 04-27-2006 04:41 PM
      Looking good! I'm curious to see how you get that strut tower brace to work. Steven and I played with one at a junkyard once and while it looks like it just fits, you can't close the decklid. I'd say you'd either have to cut and reweld the bar to sit lower to clear the decklid, or notch parts of the decklid to clear.

Fiero2m8 MSG #52, 04-28-2006 08:22 PM
      Finished up interior windshield trim by cutting panel to fit inside the chrome trim.
One screw holds it in position at the top:




I also modified the old overhead console to fit the new interior trim.
The push button map lights were removed and the door switch interior lights were installed into the headliner.
They will operate from the existing harness when doors are open or the interior light switch is turned on.



Fiero2m8


Fiero2m8 MSG #53, 05-03-2006 11:24 PM
      Got some stuff done last night...

Windshield cowl and wiper arms were reinstalled with new blades:


Realigned the hood and rebolted the fenders in place:


Removed the seat covers and reinstalled the factory seats that are patiently waiting for Mr. Mikes leather this summer:


Shot from the back shows that the headrests don't stick up that far above the firewall roll bar now:


Driver's side picture:


Passenger side picture - still thinking of what the new side skirt solution with be as I need 5-6 inches of depth:


Hopefully I'll have some pics of the LT1 next week to make things more interesting.
The weather up here has been great so I'm sticking with my goal to have Fiero 2m8 running by the end of May.
Then I can work on the stereo, nitrous, and body mods in between joyrides...


Ryan


BtotheB (b.cathrae@gmail.com) MSG #54, 05-04-2006 01:40 AM
      Wow! Cool build-up thread, and local too! You must be working full-time to be getting all this done so quickly. Can't wait to see it all together!

Brad


Gokart Mozart MSG #55, 05-04-2006 05:36 AM
      Looking good but a couple things I noticed:

 
quote
Originally posted by Fiero2m8:



How's the ground clearance for those bolts? Iy looks like a few good scrapes and things would get interesting.

 
quote
Originally posted by Fiero2m8:



Hope you put some rubber between the posts and the metal sides.


Mr. Pat (patrickspratt@live.com) MSG #56, 05-05-2006 11:21 AM
      You bastard!! You copied me Check out the link in my sig, theres some good info on my 4t60e/lt1 swap.



Fiero2m8 MSG #57, 05-06-2006 03:51 PM
      Thanks GoKart - I will post pictures of the corrections soon.

Hi Pat - yes I did email some questions to Darth Fiero and Winston at FieroLT1.com over the last couple of years.
They were both very helpful. Credit is due to you as I found that most SBC swaps were manual trans and the automatics made things a little more difficult since their were less examples around.

I am glad to see you're now planning to modify your iron head LT1 with similar mods as mine (ported heads, crane cam, nitrous etc)

I referred to your site as proof the 4T60 is possible with a LT1.
I especially like your cold air intake setup and would like to go with something similar in stainless for my K&N filter.
+ rating for you.

Ryan


Fiero2m8 MSG #58, 05-08-2006 10:06 AM
      Here are some updated pictures:

The underside of the X-Frame is as smooth as possible - bolts were trimmed before final painting:



Battery tray inside box is secured so battery cannot move and cables are tightened up at the correct postitions to avoiding arcing. Inside of lid is also covered to prevent accidental sparks during removal and reinstallation:





Side skirts were re-installed to match flares - I will need to add approx 2 inches to the bottom to cover the x-frame from view - then they will match the height of the front skirt on the other side of the tire:



Going to stop by at the Hod Rod shop today with my camera - still wanting on the reversed intake - I'll try to get some other pics though...

Fiero2m8


Fiero2m8 MSG #59, 05-11-2006 06:43 PM
      Picked up a decklid that didn't have the luggage rack from a 1985 GT to replace mine that needed work.

Original one I was modifying for a funtional scoop:



Damage from garage door opener, doh!




New Decklid with key included:



Black doesn't look too bad for now - I discarded aftermarket spoiler:



I am going to leave this one as stock looking as possible for now:




Fiero2m8


Fiero2m8 MSG #60, 05-15-2006 08:58 PM
      The engine builder and I agreed I would pick up the rebuilt LT1 Saturday - but I guess we had different Saturday's in mind

In the meantime, I have worked on a couple things:

The coolant pipes were re-installed in their original location:





I also ran the positive battery cable from the front compartment to the starter location following the heater hoses:



Fiero2m8


Fiero2m8 MSG #61, 05-16-2006 07:46 AM
      Some people have been asking about TH125c to 4T60 swaps.
Since I had both handy, I took a measurement between the axle seals on both transmissions.

The stock Fiero TH125c is 19-!/4"



While the 440T4/4T60 trans is 21-1/4"



Since the new trans is approx 2" longer, that is why you need new axle solutions.
Let me know if anyone needs any other measurements taken.




Fiero2m8 MSG #62, 05-16-2006 01:42 PM
      Maybe someone can help me hear - otherwise I might be able to ask Mark at Street and Performance:
Below are pictures of my 4 prong plug from my custom harness that ran the stock Fiero TH125c.
It has only 2 wires on it that need to be cut and married to the Cadillac 4T60 5-prong plug - Does anyone have a wiring diagram or know what the 5 wires are for, so I can splice them correctly?
This is a non Electronic 4-speed overdrive 4T60 from a 1990 STS.

Red and brown only on the custom harness / LT1 92/93 ECM



Orange, Grey, Pink, Brown, and Green on the Caddy trans to choose 2 or more from



Any educated ideas or better yet advice from experience would be a plus for you...

Fiero2m8


Brian Lamberts (brianlamberts@gmail.com) MSG #63, 05-16-2006 07:19 PM
      I did a start on a rag top conversion on an 84 about 10 years ago. Using standard suspension and 14 inch wheels, I had ground clearance problems with the x-frame. I'll be interested when you get it all back together with your final choice wheels--to see if you have problems with speed bumps and other road hazards. That x-frame you've installed looks massive!

[This message has been edited by Brian Lamberts (edited 05-16-2006).]

Fiero2m8 MSG #64, 05-16-2006 08:26 PM
      Thanks Brian - I've read many of your yahoo email posts and trust your judgement, so l'll watch for that and measure the ground clearance. The close up pictures do tend to make the x-frame look bigger on the thread.
Also, the car did sit much lower on the 13 and 14" stock wheels I used to have on there.
Luckily it will be for cruising friendly roads after checking the weather report
I did increase the x-frame dimensions from 2-1/4" to 2-1/2" box due to less cost and extra strength for the V8.
I guess time will tell how soon I will need to get new springs

Also on the transmission measures above, I forgot to mention that the extra 2" inches in length is on the passenger side, which is very good news for me so I can retain my custom shortened Pontiac 6000 axle on the drivers side and reuse the Fiero auto axle on the passenger side since I moved the entire assembly 2 inches to the left to make room for the LT1's water pump.

Fiero2m8

P.S. Before I put the P245/50R16 Goodyear Gatorbacks on I had Pirelli P225/60R16's on the 3-spoke rims that filled out the wheelwheels nicely, but made the car sit too high in my opinion. Since 18 ot 19" rims aren't in the budget this year, I may have to swap the other tires back on - stay tuned.

[This message has been edited by Fiero2m8 (edited 05-16-2006).]

Fiero2m8 MSG #65, 05-20-2006 01:04 AM
      Still waiting on the crank to come back from balancing, so I worked on finding a home for the other sub and the amp:

Front compartment sub box is completed:



The other sub is now mounted under passenger side dashboard:



You can see that it is relatively well hidden considering it is a 600W 10" sub:



The only place I could fit an amp this size was behind the passenger seat - not wired yet, but here it is mounted:



You can really start to get a sense of what the project will look like from the outside now before paint:



Fiero2m8


Fiero2m8 MSG #66, 05-21-2006 12:56 PM
      Yesterday I got a layer of fiberglass mat down and two layers of fiberglass cloth and resin built up on the B-pillars:



After some sanding, they will be ready for a thin layer of filler to finalize the shape.




Gokart Mozart MSG #67, 05-21-2006 02:15 PM
      One thing I was wondering, but you don't have to worry about, is why not use a double X underbody X-frame? Leave the opening for the gas tank but keeping it stiff.


Fiero2m8 MSG #68, 05-21-2006 05:47 PM
      Hey GoKart - sounds to me like that design would work good too.
I already had to try my removeable X out to drop the gas tank and it worked just fine.

Here are some updated pictures of the B-pillar bodywork - the part of the build I detest.
A lot of patience and elbow grease is required, but I got the first two layers and sanding done today.










Fiero2m8



Fiero2m8 MSG #69, 05-24-2006 12:34 AM
      Test fitting the high rise wing



Yes it is my notchback - I bet I could sell it as a wing though

I decided with the roadster to go with a spoiler over a wing, so I removed the Lumina Z34 wing shown here:



As replaced it with a spoiler off a 1986 Camaro (no 3rd brakelight in it as they were on the hatch that first year)
Wrong colour but you get the idea - it requires 6 holes and is fastened with 10mm nuts with washers:



I'm also working on side scoops that I'll post pictures of soon.

Fiero2m8

[This message has been edited by Fiero2m8 (edited 05-24-2006).]

Fiero2m8 MSG #70, 05-24-2006 06:20 PM
      Passenger side scoop installed from a 1983 Pontiac Trans AM.
The driver's side will be a little more work, but I prefer them to be the same vents on both sides, so I am going ahead with it.



Fiero2m8


85SE MSG #71, 05-24-2006 07:25 PM
      Fiero2M8,

I've been watching your thread with interest. You are doing a heckuva job on that car from what I can tell

Was the lumina wing mounted to your decklid? How did it fit? That picture you have there looks really nice.

Also - how did you get enough volume to mount a 10 inch sub under the dash? I held mine up and it didn't seem like a nice fit at all. I guess I'm still not 100% of how I want to mount my 10 in my car

Thanks,
Andrew



Steven Snyder (fiero@steventsnyder.com) MSG #72, 05-24-2006 07:41 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by Fastback 86:

Looking good! I'm curious to see how you get that strut tower brace to work. Steven and I played with one at a junkyard once and while it looks like it just fits, you can't close the decklid. I'd say you'd either have to cut and reweld the bar to sit lower to clear the decklid, or notch parts of the decklid to clear.



That one we found sure fit a lot better than his!
I think it was from a later Sunbird? May have even been a Sunfire..

-Steven


Fiero2m8 MSG #73, 05-25-2006 11:40 AM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by Steven Snyder:
That one we found sure fit a lot better than his!
I think it was from a later Sunbird? May have even been a Sunfire..

-Steven


I believe the stress bar I got was off a Buick 3800 or Cadillac 4.9, so I know it's too long but the center bar just unbolts and can be shortened.
If I use it at all, it would be after the motor is in, and I was hoping to flip it upside down to solve the clearance problem - I guess we'll see...

Ryan


Fiero2m8 MSG #74, 05-25-2006 11:49 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by 85SE:

Fiero2M8,

I've been watching your thread with interest. You are doing a heckuva job on that car from what I can tell

Was the lumina wing mounted to your decklid? How did it fit? That picture you have there looks really nice.

Also - how did you get enough volume to mount a 10 inch sub under the dash? I held mine up and it didn't seem like a nice fit at all. I guess I'm still not 100% of how I want to mount my 10 in my car

Thanks,
Andrew



Hi Andrew,

Thanks, I glad you're interested. My build is definitely of the home/novice/budget type compared to many on PFF, but I'm having fun with my Fiero
Yes the Lumina Z34 spoiler (1992) fits easily by drilling 4 holes in the decklid - I did that on mine last year.
The tricky part is the center mount.
You can get the nut on but it is very close to the lock cylinder that you have to remove to do it.
The other problem is the keyhole is hard to access without mods to the center support.
I ended up removing the centre support completely, but it flexes a little without it.

Here are a few pics of it installed:









The 10" sub doesn't even fit unless the vent cables are relocated.
It is a fairly tight fit and is only using limited dash space as box volume (approx .7 cu.ft)
My sub box in the front compartment is just over 1 cubic foot.
Since my 4 - 4x10s are only powered by the deck, I was more concerned about too much bass with the amp I am using, so if it doesn't sound good I can always remove or relocate the sub under the dash and port the front box into the cabin.



Tonight I was working on modding some Grand Prix side skirts to cover the bottom of the X-frame.
I will post some pics of that this weekend.

Fiero2m8


Fastback 86 MSG #75, 05-26-2006 02:49 AM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by Fiero2m8:


I believe the stress bar I got was off a Buick 3800 or Cadillac 4.9, so I know it's too long but the center bar just unbolts and can be shortened.
If I use it at all, it would be after the motor is in, and I was hoping to flip it upside down to solve the clearance problem - I guess we'll see...

Ryan


Ahhh, the one we found was all welded. It would've required some cutting and welding to work. Hope this works out well for you, your project looks great so far!


85SE MSG #76, 05-26-2006 07:53 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by Fiero2m8:

Hi Andrew,

Thanks, I glad you're interested. My build is definitely of the home/novice/budget type compared to many on PFF, but I'm having fun with my Fiero
Yes the Lumina Z34 spoiler (1992) fits easily by drilling 4 holes in the decklid - I did that on mine last year.
The tricky part is the center mount.
You can get the nut on but it is very close to the lock cylinder that you have to remove to do it.
The other problem is the keyhole is hard to access without mods to the center support.
I ended up removing the centre support completely, but it flexes a little without it.

Here are a few pics of it installed:
The 10" sub doesn't even fit unless the vent cables are relocated.
It is a fairly tight fit and is only using limited dash space as box volume (approx .7 cu.ft)
My sub box in the front compartment is just over 1 cubic foot.
Since my 4 - 4x10s are only powered by the deck, I was more concerned about too much bass with the amp I am using, so if it doesn't sound good I can always remove or relocate the sub under the dash and port the front box into the cabin.

Tonight I was working on modding some Grand Prix side skirts to cover the bottom of the X-frame.
I will post some pics of that this weekend.

Fiero2m8


Fiero2m8,

Thanks for the reply! I hate to be the guy asking questions about a mod you've uninstalled in favour of a new one I've seen the Camaro lip idea before - but never a Lumina Z34 wing. It looks really nice on there, as does the lip spoiler of course.

My car has the luggage rack on it at present, which is well, pretty gross I've been exploring the options to improve the looks. My first Fiero had a plain decklid, and I think that's a nice look too - the lip is very complementary to that.

On the subwoofer - is yours a free air sub?

Anyway, thanks again. You say that this is a "home/novice/budget" type of build, but I think you're being too modest of your skills. You've got some great stuff going on there that's well beyond this novice!

Cheers,
Andrew


Fiero2m8 MSG #77, 05-27-2006 02:08 AM
      Thanks Andrew.
I am keeping the Z34 wing I put on my luggage rack decklid.
It needs quite a bit of work but I may do a decklid build in the future with it.
I just decided I preferred a spoiler vs. a wing on a roadster, but I did get alot of compliments on the other one.

The under dash sub is sort of a soft box where I used a fiberglass underpad material to line the odd shape of the dash.
It should absorb unwanted noises but isn't an air tight design or a proper box.
I think an 8" sub in a tube would be better suited under the dash.
I've also seen a 10" in the passenger footwell area, but I didn't want mine to be seen.

Cheerio



Fiero2m8 MSG #78, 05-27-2006 02:20 AM
      A few pictures of the 1994 Pontiac Grand Prix skirts installed.
They are by no means finished at the wheelwells or blended in yet, but I sprayed them with black bumper paint to get an idea how they will look.
I used the harware clips to install them and screws underneath.
It makes the profile lower and wider, although it is starting to look like typical Pontiac bodyside cladding the designers were so addicted to in the 80's to add "excitement"







Fiero2m8



85SE MSG #79, 06-09-2006 10:16 AM
      Ryan,

More updates!

Andrew


Fiero2m8 MSG #80, 06-19-2006 06:12 PM
      Sorry for the delay Andrew.
No to worry though you didn't miss anything as I've been too busy at work to make much progress.
However I stopped by the Hot Rod shop today and snapped these pictures of the progress. Let me know what you guys think...

V-belt pulley installed for additional frame clearance


Heads are ported for larger valves and crane cam is installed


Piranha Pro nozzles and stainless tubing for Nitrous Express direct port kit


Block is .0065 inch over (365 cu in. / 6.0 Litre) with forged pistons installed and crank balanced.
Notice high flow oil pump


View from top showing tight plumbing so Corvette Fuel Rail covers can be adapted to fit over nozzles


Ryan



Fiero2m8 MSG #81, 06-20-2006 01:57 PM
      A couple more pictures:

The LT1 intake has been reversed - cutting and welding my orginal 1994 intake
didn't work out so good, so this 1996 intake is going to be used.




Fiero2m8


PBJ (pbjt@sympatico.ca) MSG #82, 06-20-2006 07:04 PM
      Nice built thread. Good work. I am looking forward to seing it in person some day. Judging by your progress you may have it down on wheels by Aug 12 for the Great Lakes show here in London. It would make a great work in progress attraction.

Pete

www.fieros.ca



Fiero2m8 MSG #83, 06-21-2006 08:18 AM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by PBJ:

Nice built thread. Good work. I am looking forward to seing it in person some day. Judging by your progress you may have it down on wheels by Aug 12 for the Great Lakes show here in London. It would make a great work in progress attraction.

Pete

www.fieros.ca




Thanks Pete,

I have a new deadline for the show now.
It has been a work in progress since I removed the first OE nut 3 years ago after 2 years of driving on the original tires!
I don't plan to finish anytime soon, but yes I should have someone to show in August.
I bookmarked the SOFA site.

Ryan



Mr. Pat (patrickspratt@live.com) MSG #84, 06-21-2006 10:16 AM
      Any estimates as to what the LT1 is putting out? Thats alot more than what I got



Fiero2m8 MSG #85, 06-21-2006 05:46 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by Mr. Pat:

Any estimates as to what the LT1 is putting out? Thats alot more than what I got



Hey Mr. Pat - thanks for looking - how's your cam/port going?

The engine builder Rod from Hot Rod Inc. really seems to know his stuff.
Today he showed me timeslips and awards of his own 1973 Nova SBC beating big blocks and running the 1/4 mile in under 9 seconds on 10 inch slicks.
I am having him prepare me a build sheet of the rebuild including all parts etc. that I will post on this thread.

I'm not really interested in starting a flame war with anyone since I have no dyno numbers, but Rod claims HP on motor will be in the 350-375HP range up from the stock 260HP.

I am using the smallest jets on the fogger nitrous setup of 100HP - it gives a true extra 100HP at the crank or about 80-85RWHP instantly when the digital window switch hits selected rpm at WOT.
Once it is tuned right I may up to a 150HP shot as it is proven that stock LT1 motors can run that regularly without problems.
Anything above that up to +300HP would require a digital timing retard box and a second stage to play safe.

With 6.0 Litres, balanced, ported heads, crane cam, 10:1 compression, CAI, and headers, I would be happy with a 90-100 HP gain over stock, which I think is realistic.
What do you SBC gurus on the forum think?


Here are a couple more pics:

Crank before pickup and pan are installed:


Reversed intake bolted down, accel injectors and aluminum valve covers installed:



Fiero2m8 MSG #86, 06-22-2006 10:33 AM
      I got a little more fiberglass work done last night.

Wasn't satisfied with the b-pillars, so I used some short strand fiberglass filler to reshape them a bit.


Also working on the driver's side scoop to match the passenger side by filling in the old vent.


Last thing I got to was sanding the decklid hole repairs and filling the stock antenna hole in the front fender.


Fiero2m8


Mr. Pat (patrickspratt@live.com) MSG #87, 06-22-2006 06:10 PM
      Thats more than realistic. What are the specs on the cam? Mine is a pretty beefy cam, wouldnt make for a practical DD, but then, who builds these kinds of cars for a DD? Right now im waiting on the new brake kit to come. The guy keeps blowing me off, and no one wants to move my car because we found out that the bolts holding the rims on are pretty much all broken. Its a wonder it hasnt broken completly. So, I may just end up getting stock replacements so we can move on with the project. Like all my projects, they take what seems like years to start, and a week or 2 to complete. but im actually in the process of discharging from the AF, and hopefully they will let me out. We wont know till JAG tells us.

But a good port job should see about 40-50 crank, and a good cam another possible 100 depending on the cam and tune. I would guess you would be making close to 350-375 at the wheels. 260 is scary!! Let alone close to 400. Im actually going to be terrified to drive mine when its done. Im looking at getting 500 to the ground on the bottle.



Fiero2m8 MSG #88, 06-26-2006 11:57 AM
      Progress on the weekend was limited to completing the sound system - now I can rock out while I work

Installing a 100amp fuse and 5 Guage wiring from the GM post on the battery, then routed under the car to the distibution block on the firewall:


Wiring remainder of amp - control wire, ground, speaker wires for subs under console, and input wires run separately under door sill to minimize any possible electrical interference:


Power antenna was completed with power/ground obtained in engine bay, while antenna cable and blue control wire run through X-Frame and connected to the deck - a 5' extension cable was required.


Resulting sound through the 4 - 4x10's and 2 10" subs is the best of any car I've ever owned.
What I like most is that all components are concealled except the deck that has a removeable faceplate.
When you look into the interior it appears stock, that changes when you hear it...

I believe I have achieved my goal of being able to hear it during highway roadster driving with the LT1 growling right behind me
Time will tell...

Fiero2m8


Fiero2m8 MSG #89, 06-26-2006 03:27 PM
      Pictures hot off the press:

Progress is being made today fitting the assembly on the cradle.
I think I may have one of the first LT1's with Archie's auto adapter plate and a Cadillac 4T60 - makes for a very wide setup!
I guess Mr. Pat's built with help from Darth would also be wide...

My goal is to try and avoid a notch to the left side frame rail of the car, but a test fit with have to determine that.


Here is a shot from the front of the motor (passenger side of car) showing Archie's pulley shimmed to tightly fit the Optispark.
I had to change the waterpump last year and now is the time to remove the unused lower right port and plug it properly.
I am also planning to install a bleeder in the gooseneck as I had a hard time bleeding the system after the stock one was removed to make more clearance at the stock tower.
You might notice the water jackets that lead to the throttle body has also been removed and the EGR has been blocked off - (it passed it's final E-Test without it by testing the car as a hot rod)

.
.
.
A chrome hugger header will be installed on this side (front of the car) so it stays tight to the block and passes between the cradle (K-frame) and the block.
I just noticed I need another knock sensor as my Street and Performance ECM requires two.
The car doesn't have A/C so Archie's mount won't be needed.

.
.
.
Here is a good shot of the starter mounted - unfortunately it will need to be removed for the oil filter adapter, but you can see how little room there is for clearance there.
I also have a new flexplate installed as the first one took a beating while I was learning to properly shim a starter
I am hoping that the trans lines are metric fittings - anyone know?
Also I will need to run a addtional vacuum line to the intake manifold that the stock trans didn't require - no problem as I've got 2 extra ports.

.
.
.
This is a view from the driver's side showing the mount location.
I may need to modify the mount / bracket etc. for clearance as it is much larger that the TH125c bracket - the good news is that it's also stronger...


Fiero2m8

[This message has been edited by Fiero2m8 (edited 06-26-2006).]

Fiero2m8 MSG #90, 06-26-2006 03:52 PM
      Here's a picture of Rod making a VERY small notch in the cradle to clear the pan near the rear control arm mount.
It was required to sit the whole assembly level.
Please note the motor is sitting on the higher mount location on Archie's front engine bracket.
Also enjoy Rod's various safety violations while using a cutting torch

I had previously modified the rear hugger header for clearance to the governor but since this trans is 2" longer there and the governor cap is higher, I decided to add a 3/8" spacer at the header gasket for clearance rather than changing the angle of the header since it would require the rest of the exhaust to be tweaked.
Also required is a trans to engine mount to be fabricated since neither of the stock ones I have will work without modification.
I also notice that although the throttle body is now closer to the TV and throttle cables, it may be tricky connecting them since they are 180 degrees off - anyone have pictures of the best way to route them?


Can you tell I'm excited and can see a light at the end of the tunnel after 4 months of waiting in order to get a better deal on the price?
Ryan




Mr. Pat (patrickspratt@live.com) MSG #91, 06-26-2006 05:56 PM
      Did you by any chance tell Archie what tranny you were using when you ordered it? He apparently has a skinnier version of the adapter plate for the 4T series trans. Wish I had of known beforehand. Would have made things alot easier.

Fiero2m8 MSG #92, 06-26-2006 06:14 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by Mr. Pat:

Did you by any chance tell Archie what tranny you were using when you ordered it? He apparently has a skinnier version of the adapter plate for the 4T series trans. Wish I had of known beforehand. Would have made things alot easier.


When I was doing the swap orginally I was using the TH125c, so it didn't come up in conversation.
I stopped by the shop this afternoon to see the assembly mounted level in the cradle, so the hard part is done.
I also have an axle to fit the drivers side, so it's probably to late to change it now, but a thinner adapter plate would be nice - maybe next time. Good info for others comtemplating our swaps though!!!

[This message has been edited by Fiero2m8 (edited 06-26-2006).]

vortecfiero (vortecfiero@hotmail.com) MSG #93, 06-26-2006 08:38 PM
      here are some pics of the oil adapter i made from a chunk of aluminum and a "hollow bolt"
from the sunfire oil adapter set up. The hollow bolt allows me to swing the hoses in any direction.





lol it dosn't leak.. I started to remove it after 6 years of trouble free operation to replace the O-rings
and just as I started to remove it I thought I should get some pics..



Fiero2m8 MSG #94, 06-29-2006 07:01 PM
      Well I finally got the cradle assembly home the other day and it took 4 guys to carry it from the back of my truck to slide it under the rear of the fiero. Here is a picture of it:



I spent that night test fitting the cradle and I am happy to report that there are no major issues.

The left side frame rail clearance was far more that I was expecting, here are some shots of the clearance:









More to follow.


Fiero2m8 MSG #95, 06-29-2006 11:14 PM
      During the test fit, I realized that I needed to switch to the lower bolt holes on Archie's front engine mount to level the assembly and gain better access to the crank bolt as shown in these pictures:







Other clearances were as follows...

Front valve cover to hinge box:




Rear valve cover to passenger strut tower:



V-belt balancer to passenger frame rail:




Rear header clearance after spacer added:




Transmission to engine block:




Now it is time to bolt the cradle's poly mounts into the frame:









Fiero2m8


Fiero2m8 MSG #96, 06-29-2006 11:22 PM
      Last pictures before I join the boys to head down to the U.S. Grand Prix at Indy.
(We rented a 2006 30' RV for the trip and are sitting in section "J" Sunday...)

Cradle is bolted in - it took a while to line up the rear mounts after the front ones were in loose, so being patient and sober is the key











Still needs alot of dressing up and cleaning but you get the idea here.
Next week I hope to spend a few evenings doing the axles, hoes, wiring etc...

Ryan


motoracer838 (jmartin@musicunveiled.com) MSG #97, 06-30-2006 12:04 AM
      Ryan; that should be seriously fast when done. Youv'e got a nice project going there, keep up the good work.

Cheers Beers n Gearz. Joe


85SE MSG #98, 06-30-2006 07:56 PM
      Ryan,

Sorry for not commenting sooner after calling for updates I'm just getting back to really read the forum after two weeks away. Been a few hectic weeks for me also.

Your project continues to amaze me. You're going along so well - awesome stuff. I'm jealous

Andrew


PBJ (pbjt@sympatico.ca) MSG #99, 06-30-2006 09:14 PM
      That is some excellent progress! Thanks for sharing the pics.


Pete


Fiero2m8 MSG #100, 07-04-2006 11:44 AM
      Thanks guys for your support - it helps motivate me to get out to the garage...
My PIP doesn't seem to be working right now, so I'll try posting a few pics tomorrow.

Ryan


motoracer838 (jmartin@musicunveiled.com) MSG #101, 07-04-2006 11:56 AM
      Ryan; have you tried using myfiero.com for image hosting? Iv'e never been able to get pip to work, even with the help of a friend that is a computer geek.

Cheers Beers n Gearz. Joe


Fiero2m8 MSG #102, 07-04-2006 12:37 PM
      Thanks Joe, nice to have options.
I tested it out on the Totally O/T section - works great.


Fiero2m8 MSG #103, 07-06-2006 05:27 PM
      Getting the axles to fit for a custom swap might be the hardest thing to get right.
In my opinion, the best way is to do some research first to understand how they go together and what you need.
From there you can start a cross reference search etc. to get a plan of attack to minimize trial and error.

Here are a couple links that discuss axle swaps:

http://dtcc.cz28.com/swap/axles.htm
http://spacecoastfieros.com/tech/440%2D4T60/
http://fp.enter.net/~rockcrawl/4T60a.html

As some reading next I went to the local wreckers to get axle cross reference info I was interested in since Fiero's are rare in the boneyard around here.
I was interested in a few things:

1. What other cars came with the same RIGHT axle as a Manual Trans 85-88 Fiero?
2. What other cars came with the same RIGHT axle as a Automatic Trans 85-88 Fiero?
3. What other cars came with the same L/R axles as the 90 Cadillac Seville my 4T60 was from?

Below are the answers for the benefit of the forum:

1. Fiero '85-88 axle; MT, R. also came on:

6000 '87 Front axle; 4" BC (100mm), MT (5 spd), R.
6000 '88 Front axle; 4" BC (100mm), MT (5 spd), R., early
Celebrity '87 Front axle; 4" BC (100mm), MT (5 spd), R.
Celebrity '88 Front axle; 4" BC (100mm), MT (5 spd), R., early

2. Fiero '85-88 axle; AT, R. also came on:

6000 '85 Front axle; 4" BC (100mm), 3 spd, R., 6-260 (4.3L, diesel)
6000 '85-86 Front axle; 4" BC (100mm), 3 spd, R., 6-173 (2.8L)
6000 '87 Front axle; 4" BC (100mm), AT, 3 spd, R., 6-173 (2.8L)
6000 '89 Front axle; 4" BC (100mm), 3 spd, R., 4-151 (2.5L)
Celebrity '85 Front axle; 4" BC (100mm), AT, 3 spd, R., 6-260 (4.3L, diesel)
Celebrity '85-87 Front axle; 4" BC (100mm), AT, 3 spd, R., 6-173 (2.8L)
Celebrity '89 Front axle; 4" BC (100mm), 3 spd, R., 4-151 (2.5L)
Century '87 Front axle; 4" BC (100mm), AT, 3 spd, R., 6-173 (2.8L)
Century '89 Front axle; 4" BC (100mm), 3 spd, R., 4-151 (2.5L)
Ciera '87 Front axle; 4" BC (100mm), AT, 3 spd, R., 6-173 (2.8L)
Ciera '89 Front axle; 4" BC (100mm), 3 spd, R., 4-151 (2.5L)
Citation '85 Front axle; AT, R., 6-173 (2.8L)
Skylark '85 Front axle; AT, 6 cyl, R., late

3. Seville '89-90 Front axle; w/o ABS; R. also came on:

Eldorado '89-90 Front axle; w/o ABS; R.


The answers to #3 were slim!

Murphy's law applied here as none of these #3 axles were available in the Niagara region.
I thought, no problem, I already have 4T60 axles housings I previously upgraded to fit the old TH125c, so why would I need Cadillac parts....wrong



Fiero2m8 MSG #104, 07-06-2006 05:51 PM
      Here is the difference between the TH125c axle housings and the larger 4T60's:



I swapped the 4T60 bearings onto the stock automatic axles for the upgrade - here you can see they fit the larger housings only now:





The main reason I went to all the trouble to do this was so I could continue to use the Fiero or 6000 with light duty brakes etc. CV joints shown here with retaining c-clip and axle removed:



However, when I went to plug the drivers side axle in the trans, oops!
The splined shaft was too large for the normal 4T60 axle housing - I needed to get a Caddy one
The wreckers only had two 90 Devilles in the back field, but I was lucky that one of the two had the axle housings I needed - here they are:





Unfortunately there were also two different sizes!
The drivers side required a larger boot with 1/2" notches, while the passenger side used 3/4" notches in the boot!
I think that the larger drivers side one was to accomodate the short axle clearance and/or handle additional torque.
I trip to Automotive Warehouse for to new 90' Seville inner boots solved that - here they are:



Fiero2m8



Fiero2m8 MSG #105, 07-06-2006 06:02 PM
      The next hurdle was the rear hubs:
The right rear one had some spline damage from a previous axle life lesson so I grabbed one at the wreckers off a 94 Grand AM with 5x100mm pattern shown here:



Unfortunately it didn't quite fit, so off to Crappy Tire (aka Canadian Tire) for some new ones.
Amazingly they had a pair in stock!
Here they are:




I also bought some new CV bands and asked to borrow the free loaner tool for them, but it was still MIA.
Next I found out that they can't get CV grease anymore, so I bought the last four tubes they had.
Looks like I will once again be using trusty dull side cutters and hammer to get the CV bands on tight



Fiero2m8 MSG #106, 07-06-2006 06:11 PM
      The last thing I did in prep to assemble and install the axles was to re-install the struts and hardware at the top.
Don't worry the struts and hardware will be painted up pretty after an alignment.






Fiero2m8 MSG #107, 07-07-2006 02:59 PM
      O.K. here is the build up and installation of the axles - I'll start with the passenger (right) side.

For my setup, I had done a rough calculation and "in theory" I believe that I should be able to use a stock Fiero right axle for the passenger side. (Fiero axles have Archie's guarantee not to break using his kit during normal driving... )
Since I had moved the engine assembly roughly 1.5 inches left of stock and the 4T60 right axle seal was approx 2" longer than the TH125c trans - I concluded the axle should be within 1/2 inch of the ideal position in the tripot.

Lets see if I'm right...

Since it is critical that the axles don't bottom out when the suspension is under load, I decided to do a test fit without CV boots.
That way I could measure and inspect the axle's habits and position throughout the suspension travel range.

Here is a shot of the axle installed without boots and the suspension unloaded:



The CV joint and new hub:



Overhead shot:



At this time I realized that my engine assembly is no longer completely square in the cradle!
I had decided not to move Archie's front mount mainly because it was already bolted and welded in the perfect left/right spot.
However with the 4T60 trans being larger, we were limited on how far back the trans could go before hitting the rear of the cradle.
If I had to do it over I would try moving Archie's front mount a 1/2 inch closer to the firewall for overhead appearance improvement.
There is plenty of clearance at the front header to do this.
However when I looked at the most important shorter than stock drivers side axle, I noticed that this slight angle was perfectly square to the hub. It happens to be in an ideal location over there so I'm not going to move the engine mount at this time.
If I did, it would place the drivers side axle housing behind the hub (probably the stock location).

O.K. back on topic, next I installed the tie-rod and did an eyeball alignment for now (slight toe-in) and bolted them up.
Remember, these are the ones I had shortened 2 inches and flipped the mounts around two inches to the outside of the car.
Hopefully this will reduce bumpsteer on the car that is now lowered 1.5 coils.



Next, I set up the jack in order to simulate loading the suspension:



Using a tape measure and a coat hanger with a 90 degree bend on the end, I marked the clearance between the bearings and bottomed out on the hanger:



Then I measured the distance between the transcribed marks, results were:

Total depth of axle housing 4"
Axle too long minimum clearance 1.5"
Axle too short minimum clearance 1.0"



Success!

The axle stays near the middle of the axle housing throughout it's suspension travel range


Fiero2m8 MSG #108, 07-07-2006 03:12 PM
      Time to clean and do final assembly on the passenger side axle:

All retaining clips installed after sliding CV boots on:




Here is a shot of the assembled axle, like you would buy one off the shelf:



Now it's back in the car:






Fiero2m8

[This message has been edited by Fiero2m8 (edited 07-07-2006).]

Fiero2m8 MSG #109, 07-07-2006 03:51 PM
      Driver's side axle should go right in, as it was previously modified to fit the LT1/TH125c swap.
At that time I shortened the stock axle by approx 3/4" and reversed it to gain additional clearance.
Here is a shot of the axle reassembled with the Cadillac tripots and boot already on - notice only 1/2" of axle between boots rather than the stock length of 1.5":




I wasn't able to use both c-clips on the tripot bearing end, so I flipped it over (again to shorten the overall length) and cold welded the splines to lock in the bearing to the axle in place of the retaining clip. This method isn't ideal, but I didn't want to weld and apply heat for fear of weaking the heat treated axle. This method did work for 12 months previously without failure, so I am using it again.

Here is a shot of it installed. Once again I used the jack to measure overall clearance. On this side the minimum clearance is only 1/2" from bottoming out but it never gets closer than that throughout the suspension travel:






I was a little concerned that when the axle is completely unloaded the angle is a little sharp downward and might increase wear on the outer CV boot.
This car doesn't pick rear tires off the ground like an 84 VW GTI did, but I am considering adding a rear sway bar to minimize the potential for unnecessary excessive body roll with the additional weight back there.
If anyone has installed a 22mm bar on the rear of their Fiero please post pictures showing the mounting locations.
I would also appreciate opinions / experiences of how the rear sway bar effects the cars balance and handling.

Below are some shots of the completed axle installation as seen from above and behind the engine compartment:









Hopefully I'm getting towards the less messy and more fun jobs on this project...if wiring is considered fun

Thanks,
Ryan & Fiero2m8

[This message has been edited by Fiero2m8 (edited 07-07-2006).]

Fiero2m8 MSG #110, 07-08-2006 03:23 AM
      Most of the work tonight was cleaning up the garage, but I did install the factory LT1 water pump and prepped Archie's alternator bracket for reassembly:

Added a bleeder on the gooseneck and will be plugging an unused port on the front this time around:




Can't remember why I paint the bracket last time:




Used a wire brush on a cordless drill to bring the aluminum back:



Planning to work on hoses tomorrow using Winston's diagram to help with my memory:



Check out www.FieroLT1.com for more great details on the LT1.
It certainly helped me out last year when I first installed the motor!




Fiero2m8 MSG #111, 07-08-2006 05:35 PM
      I've decided to switch from NGK TR55 plugs to new NGK TR6 (one step colder) for the nitrous application:



I had to tap the tension bolt hole in the head and used two fender washers for alignment purposes.
I am using the MSD Blaster coil that will be mounted here:



Just need to pick up a new belt before tightening everything up.

Fiero2m8


Fiero2m8 MSG #112, 07-11-2006 03:14 AM
      I picked up the next belt 1/2" x 38" long.
After slipping it on Idiscovered a new way to install and tension it by yourself with a pry bar between the alternator and A/C portion of front motor mount without having to jack the car up or work from underneath!
I didn't even have to hold the pry bar, just wedged in a crescent wrench while I tightened the alternator bracket with a socket set:




All the coolant hoses are installed and just need to be tidied up and secured properly before the wheelwell liner goes back in:




My LT1 has a vented Optispark, and since the intake in now on the other side of the car, I chose to run the line to an extra filter I had:




Here is a shot from underneath the Optispark - 1 vacuum line goes to the intake and the other to the filter to draw air through it and help keep it moisture free:




Next, I reinstalled the the existing Fiero fuel lines and new filter.
I had to extend the lines with new ones along the trunk wall to the regulator that is now on the passenger side due to the reversed intake:




The new brake booster filter was installed well away from the stock location that was very close to the front header:




I was pleased with how the EVAP cansister came out using Tremclad Flat Black and Aluminum Wheel paint for the bracket:




Vacuum lines are next and are currently a work in progress...Only question I have on them so far is:

I have a PCV valve installed in the intake but I also have an opening on the rear valve cover.
Where should I run lines from these items to or do I need both etc?
See picture below of PCV location in center of intake and vent location in valve cover:




Surely I don't need two but don't want to create a vacuum leak either.
Any suggestions would be appreciated as my memories good, but short

Thanks,
Ryan & Fiero2m8



Deabionni (deabionni@gmail.com) MSG #113, 07-11-2006 09:56 AM
      I can't believe that I haven't seen this thread before today.

Great job, and excellent write-up! I can't wait to see it finished.


HarryG (hg4570@sbcglobal.net) MSG #114, 07-11-2006 03:19 PM
      Fiero2m8,

 
quote


A couple more pictures:

The LT1 intake has been reversed - cutting and welding my orginal 1994 intake
didn't work out so good, so this 1996 intake is going to be used.

Fiero2m8


Can you explain a little more about the "cutting & welding that didn't work....."?
Any mods to the '96 intake? or, just lots of RTV to seal the ends?
Thanks!
Harry


MotorTV (motortv@hotmail.com) MSG #115, 07-11-2006 06:17 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by Fiero2m8:


Vacuum lines are next and are currently a work in progress...Only question I have on them so far is:

I have a PCV valve installed in the intake but I also have an opening on the rear valve cover.
Where should I run lines from these items to or do I need both etc?
See picture below of PCV location in center of intake and vent location in valve cover:




Surely I don't need two but don't want to create a vacuum leak either.
Any suggestions would be appreciated as my memories good, but short

Thanks,
Ryan & Fiero2m8


Yes you need two... and don't call me surely :-)...
The pcv valve gets hooked up to the port in the center under the throtle body.. ( this draws air from the crankcase to the intake vacum)
The line from the rear valve cover is hooked to the large port on the side of the throtle body.. (This is a port to the air filter side of the throtle plates... it is the "in" for air to the crankcase...)
Hope this helps...
Chuck
btw... you are going to find that the line you pluged on the water pump.. (the line that goes nowhere in Wiston's pic) is REALY needed....


Fiero2m8 MSG #116, 07-12-2006 01:59 AM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by MotorTV:


Yes you need two... and don't call me surely :-)...
The pcv valve gets hooked up to the port in the center under the throtle body.. ( this draws air from the crankcase to the intake vacum)
The line from the rear valve cover is hooked to the large port on the side of the throtle body.. (This is a port to the air filter side of the throtle plates... it is the "in" for air to the crankcase...)
Hope this helps...
Chuck
btw... you are going to find that the line you pluged on the water pump.. (the line that goes nowhere in Wiston's pic) is REALY needed....



Hi Chuck,

Thanks for confirming what I researched and jogged my memory on this morning.
I searched and found out that the top TB port is an air passage and have since connected a line to the valve cover.
When I was taking a couple pics tonight, I found the port under the TB and it jogged my memory that it went to the PCV.

I'm a little confused on the water pump port, maybe you can elaborate.
My theory is this:
When I bought the LT1, there was no port in that location on the water pump that came on my motor.
I have since replaced the Optispark and waterpump and the replacement pump did have that port that I never used last year.
This time around I also omitted the "Tee" in Winston's diagram as I am not using the TB coolant lines or the water jacket steam tubes.

It sounds like you are using it on your setup - where does it go?

Thanks,
Ryan


Fiero2m8 MSG #117, 07-12-2006 02:10 AM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by HarryG:

Fiero2m8,


Can you explain a little more about the "cutting & welding that didn't work....."?
Any mods to the '96 intake? or, just lots of RTV to seal the ends?
Thanks!
Harry


The 1994 intake was sent out to a third party for welding and I never got it back.
They provided the 1996 intake at no charge.
Rod did have to grind a spot on the front of the block that would have caused a problem, but otherwise it just has a good amount of adhesive silicone on there.
He did mention that the two intakes were not completely identical, however the 1996 intake in still not symetrical as shown in these pictures:





Ryan


Fiero2m8 MSG #118, 07-12-2006 02:24 AM
      Now, on with the show (I went to the drive-in Friday night)

I cleaned up my K&N filter and after it dries, I will re-oil it red before installation:



My CAI design uses the stock elbow with the IAT in it and approx 18" of 3" stainless steel boiler venting I had.
The flexible end of the elbow will allow me to angle the stainless towards the driver's side air scoop where the K&N filter will reside just in front of the wheelwell liner:



All the vacuum lines are finished, so my next posts will be on the Throttle cable / TV cable setup and then the shifter cable that will probably have to be "CUSTOM".

"Custom" seems to be my new favourite word on this project

Shirley


Fiero2m8 MSG #119, 07-12-2006 02:28 AM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by Deabionni:

I can't believe that I haven't seen this thread before today.

Great job, and excellent write-up! I can't wait to see it finished.


Me either - welcome to the thread, I'll try my best to answer any ?'s you have along the way.
I have a goal to have it running by my birthday this month, so stay tuned...

Rye


Fiero2m8 MSG #120, 07-12-2006 03:55 PM
      Here is the throttle setup.
It normally would have been straight forward, but the design of the Nitrous express rail and the fact I wanted to reuse my Corvette fuel rail covers made it tricky. The TV cable adapter from Street and Performance is attached to the stock Throttle Body (TB).
http://www.hotrodlane.cc/
The stainless nitrous lines and nozzle interferred with the throttle bracket, so I modified it to sit closer to the TB as shown here:




The only problem I ran into was I couldn't get WOT - it turned out to be a problem under the gas pedal.
I had to remove insulation under the carpet in that area on the firewall and now it's good:




The TV cable needed to be shortened and then I fully depressed the throttle to allow it to set itself to the proper position.
I still need to hook up the WOT switch for the Nitrous Kit but I will do that later.

The vacuum lines are in place.
Top left port on TB to rear valve cover.
Middle left port to EVAP canister.
Bottom left and right capped throttle body antifreeze/coolant passage.
Center vacuum port on intake below TB to PCV valve on side of intake:







The largest port on the side of the intake is for the brake booster.
I also have two red vacuum lines on this side, one for the fuel regulator and the other is new for the vacuum modulator on the transmission.
The other side of the intake uses one port to draw air from the Optispark, and the other is capped for future use if necessary.




Fiero2m8


MotorTV (motortv@hotmail.com) MSG #121, 07-12-2006 08:00 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by Fiero2m8:
Hi Chuck,

Thanks for confirming what I researched and jogged my memory on this morning.
I searched and found out that the top TB port is an air passage and have since connected a line to the valve cover.
When I was taking a couple pics tonight, I found the port under the TB and it jogged my memory that it went to the PCV.

I'm a little confused on the water pump port, maybe you can elaborate.
My theory is this:
When I bought the LT1, there was no port in that location on the water pump that came on my motor.
I have since replaced the Optispark and waterpump and the replacement pump did have that port that I never used last year.
This time around I also omitted the "Tee" in Winston's diagram as I am not using the TB coolant lines or the water jacket steam tubes.

It sounds like you are using it on your setup - where does it go?

Thanks,
Ryan


The "line to no where" is for an air cushion ,like an expansion tank...
If you have a steel head engine you may get away with not having it at all...
Chuck


Fiero2m8 MSG #122, 07-13-2006 01:12 AM
      Thanks Chuck - I think that explains it.
I pulled the old pump out of the box that came with my iron head LT1 and as mentioned nothing at that port location on the housing - not even a plug.
However when I ordered the replacement pump I got one for an F-body that did have the aluminum heads...

Ryan


Fiero2m8 MSG #123, 07-13-2006 04:34 PM
      Picked up some goodies today I ordered a while ago:




I had burnt a wire and a leaking boot on the previous stock set.





Last year, I pulled into a Tim Hortons with my truck carpet smoking and on fire.
It rekindled some Fiero stereotypes for sure.
Hopefully this wrap will help the naturally warm Fiero engine bay.
I also built a smaller lower trunk using the old one as a heat shield, so hopefully it won't burn the custom carpet this time around


Fiero2m8 MSG #124, 07-13-2006 05:44 PM
      I have solved one of the custom things I had been concerned about for a while - marrying the Fiero shifter cable to the Cadillac 4T60.

I had heard conflicting statements on the subject.
One was that you will lose a first gear position since the new trans has an additional gear (overdrive).
I had also read that with a little mod you can reach 1st gear just below the "1" in the console providing the cable is set up just perfectly.
I had noticed when installing the new Camaro shifter, than you can move the cable (with it unhooked) one notch below "1" on the console without trouble.
I wanted to be able to shift through the gears myself on occasion, so I took the extra time trying to achieve this.

Here is what seems to have worked for me:

The first thing I needed to find was a mounting location on the newly rebuilt trans.
I found these two 10mm bolts and carefully removed them keeping an eye on the gasket/silicone adhesive and nothing moved.
They were not overly tight and remove easily without problems:




After a test fit, I realized that the holes on the Fiero bracket that seems like it would fit when held up to the bolts, did not align perfectly, so I used a 4" angle grinder to open up the rear hole to a slot:




Next I realized the actuator lever on the trans was much less offset than the stock Fiero TH125c.
I have seen guys sites where they cut and rewelded the lever flater - I just pryed the one off the cable and swapped it with the flatter one:




Here is an overhead shot.
In order to get the best alignment possible, I used a nut as a spacer on the rear mount to get a better angle to the Fiero trans switch that was swapped on to the trans earlier.
You will notice that the cable length is set up as long as possible in the bracket and the whole bracket was bent upward slightly, all in an effort to make it long enough to reach 1st gear / 7th position.
When the cable is shortest it is in Park vs. longest in 1st - P-R-N-D-3-2-1




It did work but I was watching the cable moved as I shifted and they was a tendacy for the cable to bend while trying to reach first due to the cable already being set up to its longest position and partly due to the fact that the alignment still wasn't perfect.
Unfortunately, I couldn't shim the bracket out any further to correct the angle as it would be too short and interfere with the trans bracket to mount.
The solution was to drill the bracket and install a bolt and nut through it to provide the cable housing with a little extra support while reaching 1st gear in its longest position.




This fix allowed all gears to be engaged smoothly without regard to how lightly or slowly you moved the gear selector:





Fiero2m8 MSG #125, 07-15-2006 03:16 AM
      A few shots of the CAI installed:[








Next I installed the header wrap and spark plug wires (WIP pictures):






The last thing I got to tonight was re-installing the passenger side exhaust:








I will be working on wiring over the weekend.

Fiero2m8



Fiero2m8 MSG #126, 07-20-2006 09:47 AM
      The second computer to control the LT1 is going to be located in the trunk here:




I made a sheet metal cover and painted it black to match the black / grey carpet that will be installed in the trunk:




I ended up relocating this distribution block to the shock tower as the wires to the 4T60 were a touch short - they were just barely long enough with the old transmission so moving it here solved the problem without having to cut any wires:




When reversing the intake - all the throttle body harness lines were easily long enough as it is closer to the computer now.
The only one that would need to be extended was the EGR, but I'm not using it in my setup so it will be unused and safely tucked away:



Basically, the other than the nitrous wiring, all that is left is running a pair to the fuse box for ignition power and the brake switch.



Fiero2m8

[This message has been edited by Fiero2m8 (edited 07-20-2006).]

Jake_Dragon MSG #127, 07-20-2006 05:30 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by Fiero2m8:

The last thing I got to tonight was re-installing the passenger side exhaust:








I will be working on wiring over the weekend.

Fiero2m8


What size pipe is that? I like the tips, think I need some.
Thanks for posting your pictures I wish my coupe looked as good, the poor thing is sitting on my car port waiting for attention its not going to get for some time yet.



Fiero2m8 MSG #128, 07-21-2006 04:06 PM
      Thanks for posting - sizes are:

Headers 1-5/8" tubes
Exhaust pipe 2"
Cats 11" x 6" x 3-1/2"
Muffler tips 12" x 4-1/2"

Other updates:

I picked up a new remote oil filter relocation kit today and got the nitrous bottle filled.
It's my birthday tomorrow and I have next week off, so there should be good progress on the project.

Fiero2m8

P.S. the engine cranks nicely...


Fiero2m8 MSG #129, 08-02-2006 04:27 PM
      I'm back from vacation in Wasaga Beach and finally got a little more progress on my amateur home build:

Remote oil filter kit installed with filter mounted to cradle:





Replacement decklid installed using two prop rods in favour of the old torsion springs:







You will also notice the rubber moulding from the Camaro hatch cut and installed on my firewall:



Next the brakes were re-installed with new hard lines and existing 1 year old calipers, rotors and pads:
(I forsee a brake upgrade in the car's future...)





Last thing I got to last night was reconnecting the emergency cables and they work - not essential for an auto, but a nice to have:



Haven't finished routing the crossover brake line as I am considering a "H" body rear swaybar upgrade as documented here:

http://dtcc.cz28.com/87fiero/swaybar.htm

Any excuse to go back to the wreckers
Anyone done this mod lately?
If so what year / model car did you use and did you like the result?

I'm also looking for an optional install location for the Archie strut bar - the normal location resulted in a snapped stud in the head.
Pictures of other solutions are also welcome.

Fiero2m8


Jake_Dragon MSG #130, 08-02-2006 05:55 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by Fiero2m8:
Haven't finished routing the crossover brake line as I am considering a "H" body rear swaybar upgrade as documented here:

http://dtcc.cz28.com/87fiero/swaybar.htm

Any excuse to go back to the wreckers
Anyone done this mod lately?
If so what year / model car did you use and did you like the result?

I'm also looking for an optional install location for the Archie strut bar - the normal location resulted in a snapped stud in the head.
Pictures of other solutions are also welcome.

Fiero2m8


Make sure the bolts you use for the end links dont stick past the bottom edge of your rim, you get a flat tire and its going to dig into the ground.
It looks like the one in the link has some pretty long bolts on his install.

What kind of motor and tranny mounts do you have? I used solid mounts and my motor dosent move at all.
I have been thinking of using something tied into the adapter plate and install something on it and mount it to the cradle.


Fiero2m8 MSG #131, 08-03-2006 12:32 PM
      Thanks Jake.
I checked out your site - interesting stuff on there.
I'm going to take some measurements on the ideal width in my opinion and shop the u-pick yard this afternoon.
Checking clearance on the tires is a good idea - the link suggests to shorten sleeves to 1 inch which I think should work.

On another note, I am very pleased to announce that the car fired on the first attempt just moments ago
Actually the second attempt, if you count the almost dead battery last night that just came off charge moments ago

I will shoot a video of it running tonight - does anyone know where I can get a free host to post my video to?
Let me know and I'll post the link by the weekend so you guys can all hear it

I started it with the garage door closed but 2 neighbours applauded when I came out of the garage



Ryan




85SE MSG #132, 08-09-2006 07:53 PM
      Ryan,

Congrats on first fire!

You can host your video for free at www.streetfire.net or www.putfile.com or www.photobucket.com

I've used all three. Stretfire is probably my favourite at present - I found excellent upload speeds and you get counters

Andrew


Mister MSG #133, 08-10-2006 12:36 AM
      Great work and details...
does it mean you'll be in the London show ?


PBJ (pbjt@sympatico.ca) MSG #134, 08-10-2006 09:50 AM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by Mister:

does it mean you'll be in the London show ?



I hope we see it out that day. Nothing like a good trailer ride for the project

Pete


Fiero2m8 MSG #135, 08-16-2006 11:42 AM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by PBJ:
I hope we see it out that day. Nothing like a good trailer ride for the project

Pete


Well I had a golf tournament in Fergus that day and racing at Merritville in the evening.
It wasn't from a lack of trying to have the car ready, but after driving it Friday night for the first time, I wasn't confident enough to bring it that far. I didn't consider a trailer as it's not my thing and the car is probably to low for a trailer anyways.

I did have to work out a few gremlins out first during some local break-in miles.
The biggest problem was the alternator belt was flipping over like Dr. CPU's.
I will post the solution as I update the build thread.

Ryan

[This message has been edited by Fiero2m8 (edited 08-21-2006).]

Fiero2m8 MSG #136, 08-16-2006 11:47 AM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by Mister:

Great work and details...
does it mean you'll be in the London show ?


Sorry I didn't make it - however I am planning to drive up to Mapleview Mall in Burlington tonight ugly bodywork and all...

I think it's the next logical trip after a successful return trip to Niagara Falls last night - weather permitting of course

Ryan & Fiero2m8



Fiero2m8 MSG #137, 08-16-2006 12:37 PM
      Here is a shot of the strut installed - I took the suggestion above and mounted at the adapter plate.
You can't see the rear here, but it mounts at the trunk bulkhead:




Here are a few of many shots I took of the underside wiring etc. in case I get questions in the future.

Front header and cooling crossover:


Clearance from starter to billet filter adapter:


Remote oil filter kit:


Driver's side coolant pipe, I had to replace due to a pinhole leak:


After I am done filling the cooling system using Archie's method, I run the engine up to temperature with the heater on and relieve any final air bubbles into the overflow tank with my pressure cap. As shown here it is at the highest point in the system.




Fiero2m8 MSG #138, 08-16-2006 12:54 PM
      Here is my rear sway bar from the wreckers - the donor was a 1991 Buick Park Avenue.
I bought Monroe end links for that car and new GM mounts and bushings for this 30mm bar.








Everything went pretty smooth as outlined in the link I posted above.
There were no tire and wheel issues either as they had plenty of clearance.

The other adventure this particular night was learning how to use my new flaring tool kit to replace the brake line fitting that goes into the rear distribution block:


I am pleased to report that it was quite easy and solved the leak I had accidently self inflicted when working in the area.
When bleeding the brakes, I started at the longest line (left rear) and rotated counter-clockwise around the car.

Ryan


Fiero2m8 MSG #139, 08-16-2006 01:11 PM
      I finally solved the header clearance issue to the VSS on the 4T60.
It involved adding a 3/4 spacer and two exhaust manifold gaskets.
Unfortunately the speedo still isn't working, so I don't really know where to look next.
I spliced the yellows and purples together from both harnesses and plugged it into the sensor as Archie's instructions describe.
Maybe the speedo isn't getting 12V since it never moves?


I always combine frustrating parts of the build with easy / fun parts to keep me going.

Here is the computer cover installed:


I also had several fire extinguishers laying around, so I installed one horizontally in the front compartment:


It's a 5 pound BC unit:


Here are a few engine bay shots of it really starting to come together:







What do you guys think?
Fiero2m8

P.S. Next post I plan to show solutions I came up with to fix my V-belt that kept flipping upside down...



motoracer838 (jmartin@musicunveiled.com) MSG #140, 08-16-2006 06:25 PM
      It's lookin' good.

Joe


Fiero2m8 MSG #141, 08-17-2006 12:28 PM
      When you add up the widths of a LT1 with the cam driven water pump, a 4T60 and an Archie automatic adapter plate, it makes for a really wide setup to fit between the frame rails.
That is why I chose to modify Archie's harmonic balancer pulley to fit the LT1, to reduce required clearance over a serpentine belt pulley.
However when everything was together and running, I watched the belt flip over at high rpms - a problem that must be solved ASAP. I know some people have added a tensioner pulley with success, but I had no problems last year. I figured I screwed up somewhere this time - (my memory's good, but short )

My theory to fix the belt problem was to check these 5 things to determine causes before coming up with solutions:

1. Check for proper belt size.
2. Check pulley clearances to frame.
3. Check pulley alignment.
4. Check pulley on centre.
5. Check belt tension.

Here's what I found:

1. I was sold a 17038 belt in error (belt didn't match package) - after checking Archie's instructions and checking the alternator slot location, I bought a 15/32 wide x 39" long V-belt (15039)

2. Under load in drive, I heard a metal noise and the cause was the alternator shaft touching the frame. This was solved by grinding the overly long shaft until is was almost flush with the pulley.

3. I found the original washers I used to align the alternator, at that time I used two, I changed this to one fender washer that was thick enough to clear the valve cover, provide addtional clearance to the frame and have vitually zero offset between the two pulleys.

4. Unfortunately, my modified balancer pulley relied on the crank bolt to centre the assembly. NOT a good idea because even if you get it on perfect, tensioning the belt could move it. Watching the pulley spinning, I determined by eye that it was unbalanced/offcentre slightly causing a unwanted vibration, additional wear on my new crank, and belt bounce.
I needed to improve on this Mickey Mouse design, so I asked my engine builder Rod for advice.
He suggested centering the pulley using a outer sleeve over the hub of the pulley and the hub over the crank. That is the best way to centre the assembly and let the bolt do only what it is designed to do - hold it on!

A quick trip to the Metal Supermarket for a 2" piece of thick wall pipe slightly smaller diameter that the hub would do the trick.
After I returned with the piece, Rod pressed it on the pulley with a 25 ton press and a little heat. It is stronger that a weld and still balanced.

Next I called my Dad's friend Gary who has a lathe in his garage. He machined the rest of the pipe and pulley to bring all dimensions within 2 thou. The inside diameter of the pipe needed to be 1.770" and here are some pictures of that process:

Mounted in lathe and checked outer pulley that was within 2 thousandths of an inch during a full revolution:




A good shot of the pipe pressed on the hub:




Both the outside and inside of the pipe with be machined true to the pulley:




I wanted the outside thinned a little to avoid interference with the OptiSpark distributor:




The outside a the pulley was trued up to avoid a wobble or unbalanced situation - the bonus was I gained addtional clearance to my frame rail once remounted:




Here is a shot of it remounted - unfortunately in order to tap it on with a rubber mallet, I first had to lower the rear engine cradle bolt approx 1/2". The front engine mount sits on the lower holes that allows clearance to the crank bolt. The best part is I was able to get the belt on after mounting the balancer pulley
Since the crank is internally balanced, this pulley is neutral and a quick check with my new dial indicator confirmed that it is now within 2 thou of centre on the engine, just like it was in the lathe:




5. The research I did suggested approx 3/8 - 1/2" of deflection at the centre of the two pulleys. Here is a shot of the one man method I used. It involves prying the alternator bracket away from the water pump with a pipe. It was easy to tighten the nuts with the other hand. I like this method as it can be done by yourself from the top, even with the car on the ground:



I hope this writeup helps someones search of the archives one day

Fiero2m8


Fiero2m8 MSG #142, 08-18-2006 10:16 AM
      Some pictures of the outside washed and the interior cleaned up:









Leather seats are not in the budget this year, so black seat covers and new floor mats are going on today.



PBJ (pbjt@sympatico.ca) MSG #143, 08-18-2006 10:19 AM
      Wow, looking good all cleaned up.

Pete


Fiero2m8 MSG #144, 08-18-2006 10:34 AM
      Last night I worked on a couple exhaust leaks.
New gaskets on the collector were installed as the nuts came loose on the old ones.
Also the rear header was leaking in the centre.
The spacer wasn't leaking but the header flange was warped.
I removed the header and cut the flange in two spots to allow each tube to bolt independently.
Then I managed to burn my chest on a warm catalytic converter - oops, my tan doesn't look right now

Here is the header removed - you can see my spacer flange used to clear the 4T60:




Action shot showing off my multi-tasking ability...




Here is the header back on with double header gaskets - no leaks so far:



Today it's going to the muffler shop who originally built the exhaust to adjust the driver's side tailpipe tip to match the right.



With any luck, I'll bring it out to the cruise night in Welland tonight to show as a work in progress.

Ryan


Fiero2m8 MSG #145, 08-19-2006 12:42 AM
      Went over to see Darren at Zoro Muffler, who built the custom exhaust to get the left tip to match the right.
He used a little heat to straighten it up and then let me poke around under the hoist.
I wish I had one in my garage!

I was able to fix a couple minor leaks, improve on the strut bar mounting, and trim a few long sway bar studs that touched with pulling car onto the hoist:

Leaks were:

1. Coolant near the front of the passenger rocker tube - just tightened clamp with hose warm.
2. Gas droplet near the retun line on the tank - just tightened loose clamp.

I also asked him about the 2.5" collector gaskets that seem to leak on me over time - he suggested picking up some metal ones at a speed shop and he will put them on. I plan to check that out next week.

Here is a couple pics of the car back home with the exhaust redone at no charge - actually I gave him a Canadian Tire gift certificate, even though he said repeatly that I didn't have to do that:







I am also pleased to report that the major problem I had with the car before the engine was rebuilt and was still happening this week was finally solved at the shop today!

I had a rough idle, and a very rich bank on the drivers side right exhaust.
The cat was very hot and so was the temp of that exhaust causing added heat in the engine bay.
Hoping is wasn't a computer issue, I tried swapping the O2 sensors to see if the other bank ran rich/hot.
Luckily it did, so I walked across the street to pickup a couple new O2 sensors and it solved the problem.
Moral of this story is if you see a glowing cat, are getting poor mileage, or excessive heat - check the O2 sensors even if they are relatively new (mine were only 1 year old).
Lucky for me it was a cheap fix
More importantly the idle improved and the heat and gas consumption were reduced
It did however foul my colder nitrous plugs on the one bank, so I put a new set of standard heat range ones in for now (since the nitrous isn't hooked up yet)

I did make it over to the cruise night at the Seaway Mall in Welland after a last minute battery purchase - don't let them tell you they are ready to go Mine barely started the motor and is on trickle charge tonight.

The Fiero was a hit at the show being the only obvious work in progress car and very unique and new for everyone to check out. I'm sure we all love talking Fieros and I met a few other local owners and directed them to PFF.

My next outing planned is the cruise night in Niagara Falls Sunday night. It has all the domestics on one side and the ricers on the other - major fun watching them take off down the strip afterwards....

So what's on for the rest of the weekend:

Hopefully seat covers, trunk insulation / carpet and a exterior comestic touch up if time permits Sunday.
I went for a long haul tonight up hight 406 with my 9 year old son Andrew. We both had smiles ear to ear, although I had to laugh when he squirmed in his seat whenever I used half throttle (still haven't floored it yet while I break in the motor). All I have to say is the 4T60 is SWEEEEET!

I am losing sleep over whether my trunk is too warm for my 10lb Nitrous bottle, as I currently don't have room in the front compartment. I ran a thermometer is the trunk tonight for an hour of various driving and the highest temp reach was 92 degrees F.

What do you guys think? I do have a bottle pressure guage and was wondering if anyone has installed a bottle in the trunk with success?

Ryan and Fiero2m8



Fiero2m8 MSG #146, 08-19-2006 03:38 PM
      I slept in this morning but woke up with a plan for finishing the trunk with insulation and carpet.
It took only 2 hours and cost $15

First I went up to the loft to grab the rest of the duct insulation roll I used under the carpet in the passenger compartment:

I is a aluminum foil backed fiberglass insulation designed to insulate warm air ducwork passing through unheated spaces:



I cut a pattern and decided to double it up with the foil on the outsides:




Next I installed the first layer in the hottest area of the trunk:



Second layer:



I then proceeded to cover the rest of the trunk except the ECM cover with a double layer of insulation:






Now I was ready for the carpet - this time this rubber backed three piece set from Wal-Mart



Here are the tools required and the left over carpet pieces:



Finally a few shots of the completed job - much better looking in my opinion







Another budget mod, so that most of the budget is focused on performance

Ryan

P.S. someone should get page 5 soon!


Scott-Wa (smcelhiney@comcast.net) MSG #147, 08-20-2006 12:30 AM
      I think I've missed this thread the whole time... pretty impressive. Looks like a lot of well spent time sorting out that swap, kudos to you.

The convertible top mods using the parts off the sunbird were a stroke of genius. I'm looking forward to seeing the notchback area finished off.


BERKELUSA MSG #148, 08-20-2006 10:52 AM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by Scott-Wa: I think I've missed this thread the whole time... pretty impressive. Looks like a lot of well spent time sorting out that swap, kudos to you. The convertible top mods using the parts off the sunbird were a stroke of genius. I'm looking forward to seeing the notchback area finished off.


Shhh he got that from me.. lol

Good fit right 2M ?!?!

Just finished your pages.. eyes hurt now from all the reading.. lol

Regards Rob in NH

PS: You need to move SOUTH



yosemitefieros MSG #149, 08-20-2006 02:19 PM
      Man... You make me feel guilty with my '88 SD4 knotchie hanging from my A frame for three years...

I'm such a stinkin' procrastinator...

Nice job!

Gary


Fiero2m8 MSG #150, 08-20-2006 06:44 PM
      Thanks guys.

Welcome to the thread Scott-Wa!

Yes Rob, your thread popped in my head when I stumbled across a Sunbird convertible at the boneyard - and yes, those windshield parts haven't been modified at all yet - so they fit pretty good.
Rob takes the best pictures I have seen - kudos!

Well Gary, it has been almost 8 months since I started.
So far I have still managed to keep my full time job and wife, so the project must be considered "successful" so far
I was always worried that it would never get done, but this thread and comments like "I can't wait to see it finished" keep me going.

Somehow I think it may never be truly "finished" but by next spring it will certainly be less of an eyesore.

So, I managed to finish the Nitrous plumbing today

Here are the shots of that:

Mounted bottle in trunk ensuring pickup tube is at the lowest point in the bottle:




It fits nicely in the lower section of my custom trunk:




I installed a ZEX pressure guage just off the bottle that read 750psi at 70 degrees today.




That should get me in the right ballpark at 90 degrees, my guess is 950-1000 psi - I'll post results, as time will tell:




Next I used the NX sealant, (looks like red threadlocker to me) on all pipe thread fittings - the AN fittings don't need any.
They advise not to use teflon tape as pieces could clog the solenoid.
I relocated the fuel solenoid and added the Hobbs (fuel pressure safety) switch:




Next the schrader valve was removed with a valve tool, so I could feed the fuel solenoid at the same spot I check fuel pressure from:




All that is left on the NX kit is electrical hookups including WOT switch, relay, digital window switch and arming switch etc.

A little more bedtime reading and it should be done this week

Heading out now and will take my camera to tonight's cruise night - if I get any good shots, I'll post them on another thread.

Fiero2m8


BERKELUSA MSG #151, 08-20-2006 10:06 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by Fiero2m8: Yes Rob, your thread popped in my head when I stumbled across a Sunbird convertible at the boneyard - and yes, those windshield parts haven't been modified at all yet - so they fit pretty good.
Rob takes the best pictures I have seen - kudos!


Thanks..
All we need now is a way to lock the tops in the factory holes in those plates and grab something out back (on mine) I also have a Lathe and was considering a steel pin of some sorts with a side-locked thumb screw..

But whats your top going to be?

Hard-top removable?
Wire formed jeep like soft top?

Rob


Fiero2m8 MSG #152, 08-20-2006 11:54 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by BERKELUSA:


Thanks..
All we need now is a way to lock the tops in the factory holes in those plates and grab something out back (on mine) I also have a Lathe and was considering a steel pin of some sorts with a side-locked thumb screw..

But whats your top going to be?

Hard-top removable?
Wire formed jeep like soft top?

Rob


Agreed on those holes!
For now it's going to live life as a true roadster, wearing my boat cover in the garage.
In the spring, I plan to get an unholstery shop to make a tonneau cover I can keep onboard for emergencies.
I would prefer a removable hard top made from a donor car as I don't like the look of the soft top folded down since you can't hide it very well.

So I see a hardtop project in the future, but probably a year or two off as this project is a 3rd vehicle (just my toy that plans to only see fair weather for now)
I envision locking buckles on the rear deck like a Miata and the locking pin mechanism and handle from the Sunbird welded to a non sunroof Fiero notchie donor roof...

Maybe I'll wait till someone engineers one successfully first

Cheers,
Ryan

[This message has been edited by Fiero2m8 (edited 08-20-2006).]

Fiero2m8 MSG #153, 08-21-2006 01:44 AM
      Hey - I finally took the time to read my thread through from the start!
Not bad...when I'm done, I can print it for a nice photo album.
A little pat on my own back here for me
I think I'll give myself a postive rating too!

Ryan & Fiero2m8



crazyfieromike (crazyfieromike@yahoo.com) MSG #154, 08-21-2006 08:35 PM
      that thing is cool i wana see. you driving that thing around at all. i might have to con you into meeting up on one of my trips up to the falls.

Fiero2m8 MSG #155, 08-23-2006 10:25 AM
      I have a problem with the driver's door sagging, prior to the roadster build and finally got around to fixing it.

I removed the front fender bolts:




Unbolted the top hinge and drilled out the 3/8" holes to 7/16" to allow the holes to act as slots, for adjustment purposes:




Then I used a floor jack under the door and raised it until it lined up perfectly with the jam and retightened the 13mm hinge bolts:



Now the door closes with one finger just like the passenger side.


Under hard braking I heard the front right tire rubbing, so I drove that wheel up a small ramp to check the interference:




The new shocks were countered by lowering the front end 1-1/2 coils, so I trimmed the fender flare slightly for additional clearance. P245/50ZR16 seems to be the widest tire I can fit on the front and rears with stock struts:




While I had the front end jacked up, I reinstalled the mud flaps onto the wheelwheel liner to finish the front edge of the side skirts:




Next, I installed the temporary seat covers, I went with a Bell product in black:




They went on easy and will fit even better after they get some use:




I am satisfied with these until I can afford Mr. Mikes tan leather, probably next year:



Fiero2m8


HitesFiero (hitesfiero@yahoo.com) MSG #156, 08-23-2006 11:27 AM
      Your wheels are off a Grand Am right? If i remember correctly, those are 16x6 in dimension. I guess my question is how did you get a 245-50-16 on a 6 inch wide rim and still maintain a vertical side wall? Oh and for someone calling themself an amateur your build certainly doesnĺt show it! Great work!

Fiero2m8 MSG #157, 08-23-2006 11:08 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by crazyfieromike:

that thing is cool i wana see. you driving that thing around at all. i might have to con you into meeting up on one of my trips up to the falls.


Thanks - call me when you're in town as per PM I sent.


 
quote
Originally posted by HitesFiero:

Your wheels are off a Grand Am right? If i remember correctly, those are 16x6 in dimension. I guess my question is how did you get a 245-50-16 on a 6 inch wide rim and still maintain a vertical side wall? Oh and for someone calling themself an amateur your build certainly doesnĺt show it! Great work!


Welcome to the thread!
Thanks for the compliment - I don't have any formal mechanic training, not even from high school. I like to think I'm smart enough to read books and combine that with my passion for cars to get the job done. Experience is the key, keep tinkering and when that gets boring, try something bigger you haven't done before. I played around with my cars since I got a garage....VW's, BMW's, Jeeps, and now the Fiero.
As long as I remember that I'm building a toy that will be driven and not a concours show car - I should stay within my limits and be happy
A nice side effect of these projects is you build a great tool collection along the way!

The 1992 Grand AM GT rim is 16x7 (I thought they were 6.5" so I measured them) They are Goodyear Eagle Unidirectional Gatorbacks P245/50ZR16 from a 1985 Camaro IROC-Z. Can't buy them anymore, but they are sticky and help keep the front end of the Fiero from understeering. They do stick out 1 inch from the rims and I remember the Tech at Niagara Battery and Tire throw a few curse words my way when he was mounting them

Here is an old photo showing the rims and tires on before the fender flares - I went from the 13" steel Fiero rim, to a set of 14" Sunbird rims, to these and what's next? Maybe 18's in a 5 spoke design - two sets of tires to wear out first though





Fiero2m8 MSG #158, 08-23-2006 11:41 PM
      O.K.

Last night I was tinkering around with the wiring and found the backup light wire!
After it was connected that the trans switch was off by half a position because the lights came on when the selector was between R and N and the car would start in P but not N.




The fix involved rotating the switch counterclockwise and retightening the bolts when the test proved it was in the perfect spot to start the car in neutral and see reverse lights in R.



After reading some of the Haynes manual, I noticed I haven't had the instrument cluster out before
(One of the few remaining things I haven't had my paws on)

After following the steps, I completely R/R the cluster and removed the Tach while it was out.
I would like to upgrade to a Tach modified for the V8 and run separate oil and voltage guages (either the Fiero ones or aftermarket, have to do some research first...)
Here are some shot of the cluster, it was quite easy and only took an hour. One more thing I won't have to check the book on next time

Looks like a race car without the cluster in place:




Instrument cluster removed as a whole unit - just unplug three plugs, 2 on back and one on the bottom left:



Speedo / Odometer comes off with faceplate, note the mileage in Kilometres:




The Tach is held in by two screws - I used 5.5mm, 7mm, 10mm socket drivers, and T-15 torx for this mini project:




This Tach has the Oil pressure guage built in to it, but I think I accidently fried it the other night:




Back of Tach when mods occur for V8 swaps:




Holley sticker to cover temporary opening - at least I have a Holley fuel pump on the car




Fiero2m8


tvelarde MSG #159, 08-24-2006 01:18 AM
      OK, you are my hero! I have had a carbed LT1 sitting in my garage for over three years until I started reading about your installation. I have started a whole new build thread for myself on my web site where I originally built a 383 SBC for my 88 Formula/GT. I have had the 88 running about 2 years and only drove it on short trips or to autocross. Now that I work 70 miles away I was driving an 87 GT with stock 2.8 and 125 and wanted something with more spunk and good mileage.

So.... I went to the local Pull-A-Part and got a 89 Buick Regal 440T4 or 4t60 for $83 with 2315 rpm stall torque converter. I spotted the car yesterday while I was in the yard picking up other stuff. I looked at the engine and trans and thought they looked awfully clean for an 89 until I found a receipt from the local GM garge for a complete drive train replacement, new V6 and completely rebuilt transmission. I was so excited I could hardly sleep, got there when they opened this morning and yanked the trans. Looks so new I was afraid someone would call me on it! I had pulled a spare cradle into the garage and started getting it ready for the swap a week or so ago and had actually bolted up a core trans to my LT1 and set it in the cradle to look at it. Now I have thre actual trans and will go full-speed forward.

Thanks for the inspiration!

My build is located on my old V8 site at http://64.17.190.253/


Fiero2m8 MSG #160, 08-24-2006 11:48 AM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by tvelarde:

Thanks for the inspiration!

My build is located on my old V8 site at http://64.17.190.253/


Awesome stuff there and nice site.

I was hoping more would catch the LT1 / 4T60 disease, so we can help each other out down the road.
I understand that everything is "custom" to fit in the Fiero engine bay - most people give their head a shake or do a double take and ask "How did you manage to shoehorn a V8 in there? My response is usually: "I planted it when it was smaller - you just add water and they grow to fill the engine bay!"

Tonight my 9 year old son Andrew is helping me with the Nitrous wiring - my wife calls us "Sanford and Son"

Ryan




Fiero2m8 MSG #161, 08-25-2006 11:40 PM
      When I was under the dash I found this plug near the back of the radio.
Is this the plug for the addtional aux guages?
I have a 1986 Sport coupe.




I also found a spare plug above the rear window defroster - what option (that I don't have) is that for?


The Nitrous wiring is all done and wasn't to bad to install.
I followed these instruction here :

http://www.nitrousexpress.com/Instructions/nozzlesystem.pdf

The GM jetting info is here:

http://www.nitrousexpress.com/Instructions/gmjetting.pdf


My favourite part of the instructions is this paragraph at the end -

"DO NOT LISTEN TO:
A. YOUR BUDDY!
B. YOUR BUDDYĺS FRIEND!
C. THE LOCAL NITROUS GURU!
D. ANY ARTICLE IN ANY MAGAZINE
If you follow the foregoing suggestions, your NX system will operate trouble free and provide years of thrills. ABOVE ALL REMEMBER TO RACE SAFE AND HAVE FUN!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!"

Good Advice in my book - we've all heard Nitrous horror stories

The system features:

1. Hobbs switch (Fuel pressure safety switch)
2. Bottle pressure guage
3. MSD RPM digital window switch
4. WOT switch

Here is a couple shots of the arming switch. I mounted it in the console and will probably change it over to a red lighted rocker switch I found in the garage today, as it is less obtrusive than the one that came in the kit:






I also called Mark, the owner of Street and Performance who sold me the 92/93 LT1 ODBI ECM/harness.
Since I couldn't get the tach or speedo working, I finally called for his advice.

For the tach, he says I need a digital interface - not quite sure what that is but of course he sells them... not sure if I should be buying it from Arizona or if I can buy it locally though. That might explain why I couldn't get a tach signal off that white wire or with a tach filter off the white coil wire either.
I tried connecting the tach wire (white) from the ECM to the MSD RPM box and it is supposed to show rpm while the engine is running and it never went above 0rpm, so it doesn't work on that either.

For the speedo, he recommended plugging in the VSS plug from his harness in the governor and splicing the Fiero yellow to his purple wire and the Fiero purple to his yellow (reversed).
I temporarily did that (see below) and the speedo still didn't work
I am trying to dig up my V8 Archie video, but so far no luck finding it. I do remember that he splices both together before plugging in though.
Could I possibly have the wrong wires? I don't really see any other purple and yellow ones though.
The reason I ask is because the purple Fiero wire has 12V on it when IGN is on - should it?
When I had Purple to Purple and yellow to yellow connected at the VSS, the turn signal / backup light fuse blew!
I might also have a problem in the VSS itself, but I haven't tried replacing it yet.
I think it is working because the engine runs/drives better when it is plugged in from the LT1 computer.

VSS plug:




Wiring setup as suggested by Mark, owner of Street and Performance:




I explained that I had replaced the pulse style generator in the governor for the green gear driven one that the Fiero came with.
He said either with work with his ECM but I do need the Fiero style one for the speedo to work.

No fuses are blown anywhere, so I am running out of things to check.
It going to be tricky removing the governor cap with the header collector right there but I'm going to try next week.

On another note, while I was poking around the wires, I found and labelled the fan control wire and the temperature idiot light wire.
If I didn't sell my iron duke for $200 I might still have had the sensors I needed for them - at least they are labelled for a future date.

I also ordered a set of Nitrous plugs NGK TR6 as the NGK TR55's won't be a cold enough range.
While I was at KC auto parts, I found aluminum collector gaskets as the paper ones leaked and burnt.
I picked up grade 8 bolt and metal lock nuts at Nut and Bolt Supply and will let the muffler shop install them for free next week since the catalytic burn mark on my chest is still there...

Last thing I got today before the cruise night was picking up the capacitors to modify the tach.
I bought them at The Source (Radio Shack) in a variety pack that will get me the 0.0064 micro farads I need.
I realize that it isn't the most accurate way of doing it, but with an automatic trans and the digital window switch, I'll be fine.




My son thought putting this on was a good idea, althought it kinda gives people a heads up - not sure if it will stay on yet...




No shots from the cruise night as my camera battery died and I ordered 2 new ones, but I lost my voice talking about the car.
My son couldn't believe the crowd around a car that isn't even close to being finished


Sorry for all the questions!
I actually don't mind if they go unanswered - I feel better already just ranting and venting
Everytime I run into a snag, I work on something I like better for a awhile before a new strategy comes together.
However, I'm still not a fan of electrical wiring and it obviously shows - this is when I think of the Mercruiser engine I almost bought for this swap

Instead I have this bucket-O-wire!




Fiero2m8 is getting the weekend off as I'm heading up north to a family party.

Cheers!

[This message has been edited by Fiero2m8 (edited 09-18-2006).]

85SE MSG #162, 08-29-2006 11:31 AM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by Fiero2m8:

YES, PAGE 5! I KNEW IF I MADE THE POST LONG ENOUGH I MIGHT GET MY OWN PAGE THIS TIME
There, you've be warned it's long...

When I was under the dash I found this plug near the back of the radio.
Is this the plug for the addtional aux guages?
I have a 1986 Sport coupe.




I also found a spare plug above the rear window defroster - what option (that I don't have) is that for?


Ryan,

I'm not sure if that's the aux guage plug or not. My car is an 85, so I didn't have that one when I added the guages, but for what it's worth, there are only 5 or 6 wires max going to the aux gauges (ground, +12, the two signals, dimmer control, maybe one more?). That connector looks like it has at least 6 wires coming from it. Does your car have cruise? I discovered a spare connector under my dash behind the console this winter when I had it all apart. I looked through the wiring diagrams and found that it was related to the cruise control option that my car doesn't have.

The extra connector above the defrost is where the rear decklid release goes. Nice thing is that you can add the option by getting the switch in the car, relay and trunk wiring and solenoid. That's what I've read anyway; my car came with it so I've never done it. It's supposed to be an incredibly easy mod. I'm sure an archive search should turn something up.

Hope this helps! Also wish I could help with your VSS troubles but that's well beyond this amateur

Andrew

[This message has been edited by 85SE (edited 08-29-2006).]

85SE MSG #163, 08-29-2006 11:35 AM
      http://www.fiero.nl/forum/Archives/Archive-000001/HTML/20060206-2-066424.html

A little bit of help from a 30 second search

Andrew


Fiero2m8 MSG #164, 09-02-2006 12:24 AM
      Thanks Andrew!
I checked out the hatch situation and I now have the 85GT single wire setup on the current decklid but I also have a 4 wire decklid as a spare. When I run across the dash switch, I should be able to get it working...
Also, my car doesn't have cruise, A/C, power windows or locks etc. so that plug maybe for cruise although if I look hard enough, I probably will find the correct plug.

Before the cruise night I got a couple mods done today:

I noticed that my v-belt still vibrated at very high rpm - it wasn't a problem before the rebuild but my redline is now about 1500 rpm higher than stock, so I decided to try the idler pulley mod.
I used the LT1 idler pulley that came with my motor and bolted it to Archie's front engine mount using a piece of scrap 1x2" of steel to position the pulley in alignment midway between the harmonic balancer and the Fiero alternator.
It involved using a 15390 belt (15/32 x 39") or one inch longer than I had used last year.
Here is the picture of it after completion:



I also noticed that even though Archie's strut bar is mounted at the adapter plate, the front of the motor still tries to torque rearward under heavy load. Since I have very limited clearance to the frame rail (barely enough to get a new belt on) I wanted to do something to strengthen that area.

This is what I came up with:




It is a stock four cylinder Fiero dogbone bolted to the cylinder head through the shock tower and also bolted to the frame rail.
Now the motor doesn't move at all which should be good for the axles and the belt clearance. The only thing that can move now is the front wheels leaving the ground





Fiero2m8 MSG #165, 09-02-2006 01:12 AM
      Thanks 3800superfast.

These links have the info I need to hopefully get my speedo and tach working.

http://home.att.net/~subzero350/
http://www.euronet.nl/users/fo_elmo/wiring.htm
http://spad.sytes.net/fiero/manuals/

I tried hooking up the tach wire from the LT1 ODBI ECM (4000 pulse/mile) to my MSD digital window switch input and I don't get any rpm readings, so the problem may be bigger than I first thought.


Fiero2m8 MSG #166, 09-03-2006 03:36 PM
      Yesterday I removed the VSS / governor assembly to make sure everything mechanicallly is moving fine.
They appear to be fine. I was glad that the header clearance was a non-issue as once the bolts were removed, it could be swivelled slightly to remove the assembly:




Next I removed the NGK TR55 plugs and discovered a couple problems:

1. The number #2 wire was slightly off the optispark distributor causing a misfire and a rough idle.



My new colder NGK TR6 plugs were installed and gapped to .035" for the Nitrous application.
2. The front (normally driver's side bank) was running very rich due to a header / collector gasket leak (burnout)

I replaced both gaskets with dead soft aluminum ones for a permanent fix - the shop recommended installing them with metal locknuts. I picked up grade 8 bolts and metal lock nuts in place of the ones in the package.
I also had the grind the collector flange flat first as it was warpped from a previous overtightening mistake.




Checked again after the engine was up to operating temp and resnugged nuts and let them cool - finally no exhaust leaks
Sounds much better and it most importantly solved the rich condition (the O2 sensor was fooled into thinking the bank was lean due to the leak causing the ECM to richen the mixture for safety)!

Fiero2m8

[This message has been edited by Fiero2m8 (edited 09-03-2006).]

Fiero2m8 MSG #167, 09-05-2006 08:55 PM
      Today I called MSD in Texas (915-857-5200) for tech support getting the digital window switch working.
They suggested grabbing the white wire input from the negative (tach wire) on the coil.
Since the LT1 coil / coil driver is different than most cylinder type coils I had experience with, I called Street and Performance in Arizona (479-394-571) to ensure I was tapping into the correct white wire.
They were also helpful and said the white wire I needed was not on the coil driver plug, but the white wire on the grey half of the coil plug.
In this picture it is the white wire on the right side of the plug:




Success Here is a shot of the Fiero idling - the .7 represents 700rpm.




I successfully tested the Nitrous solenoids and they worked, so I should be able to test the spray on my next test drive
I am going to get some rpm on and off setting suggestions from Nitrous Express first though - I am thinking 3000-6000 should be the right range.


Here are a couple pictures of Archie's water pump belt drive for GKDINC as requested (sorry I accidently deleted your email)



I didn't use it as part of V8-Archie's deluxe auto kit because I was using the LT1's stock pump:




Since I reinstalled the tach with the V8 conversion mod, I tried hooking up the tach filter and stock Fiero tach wire to the LT1 coil, but unfortunately it still didn't work. It reads just under 1000rpm while cranking but quickly goes to 0rpm when the key is released as shown in the picture while cranking:




I also still haven't got the speedo working despite following advice I received.
I did however find a 4K pulse electric speedo wire exiting the LT1 computer that I thought I may be able to splice into the Fiero harness's yellow or purple wire near the VSS? Not sure if that output is capatible with the Fiero speedo, but it would probably run an aftermarket or electric speedo from a newer GM car. I would rather use the Fiero speedo if possible, so if anyone has ideas how to wire it correctly, send me a PM or post. Seems funny that I got this far in the build without getting stumped so more wiring diagram research is required I guess

Fiero2m8


Fiero2m8 MSG #168, 09-11-2006 12:58 AM
      Here are a few shots of the car cleaned up a little for tonight's cruise night:




The engine compartment was looking pretty good in the sunlight after it's first proper detailing job:




Even the front compartment was cleaned even though I usually don't leave it open at shows:




Hey, my sunroof still fits, so when I sell it, I can deliver it too




My friend was still trying to convince my wife Kim that people are 3 rows deep checking the engine swap out at cruise nights - she didn't believe him until she stopped by at one this week



About 100 new faces tonight in Niagara Falls, but they wouldn't stand still enough for the night setting on my camera

I also experimented with the ground effects again but they don't look right to me. I think they will be removed again even though they hide the x-frame completely.

I was very lucky to borrow a GM Tech I handheld scanner from the local dealer, so I am going the use that and Data Master I downloaded to determine why the engine is running rich and the exhaust is hotter than normal.
I was post more details this week.

Ryan

P.S. I switched the Nitrous jets to #24 NO and #20 Fuel (150 HP) and let the system do its thing tonight for the first time in 2nd gear - I WAS SPEECHLESS . If you're never experienced a sprayed car before, I highly recommend going for a ride in one, or better yet drive it !!!




Fiero2m8 MSG #169, 09-11-2006 10:06 AM
      I read in the Haynes maual for the 1993 LT1 about the EGR system which was previously blocked off.

Here is a quote from the book "Common engine problems associated with the EGR system are rough idling or stalling at idle, rough engine performance during light throttle application and stalling during deceleration."

Since I still had the EGR system parts, I decided to reinstall them as I had experienced these symptoms a couple times and general consensus is that there is not a significant HP gain without EGR.

I followed the diagram is this link with the exception of the EGR tube - the local muffler shop installed a stainless one for me at no charge from the rear of the intake manifold (now at the front of the motor) to the left (driver's side) header collector.

http://shbox.com/1/egr1.jpg

The previous owner had put some JB Weld where the vacuum line connects to the valve, so we carefully drilled it out so it is functional again. So far it has improved cold engine idle and stalling

Fiero2m8



Gokart Mozart MSG #170, 09-11-2006 11:39 AM
      Great build up! Once again a great buildup with lots of tips>

 
quote
Originally posted by Fiero2m8:

The previous owner had put some JB Weld where the vacuum line connects to the valve, so we carefully drilled it out so it is functional again. So far it has improved cold engine idle and stalling

Fiero2m8


Did you made a dime off this fix?


Fiero2m8 MSG #171, 09-11-2006 12:58 PM
      In Canada, or Ontario at least, all emission equipment that came with the vehicle is supposed to be present before a drive clean test. I guess this was a way to appear stock, but they probably would had have to reprogram the ECM so it didn't throw a DTC code relating to the EGR system.

I'm going to continue to post every fix for the benefit of the search feature on the forum.
Hey, I'm learning by fire here too

Thanks again GoKart...

[This message has been edited by Fiero2m8 (edited 09-18-2006).]

Fiero2m8 MSG #172, 09-11-2006 02:49 PM
     

The results of my GM Tech I are available and I will post them if anyone is interested.
Even though I didn't have any DTC codes, I checked all output tests and misc tests.

I have come to the conclusion that my rich conditon is caused by oversized Accel injectors.
Acutally they are the right size for my horsepower based on this calculation for my nitrous setup 9.5:1 compression with wet kit that doesn't relay on injectors for added fuel delivery when on the spray.

Injector flow (lbs/hr) = Engine HP (Normally aspirated for wet NO kit) * 0.07 (Nitrous compression)

26.25 = 375 * 0.07

I have 26 lb/hr injectors in which should be good for my setup but the PCM thinks the stock 22lb/hr injectors are still installed! I know that the computer can compensate up to 15% but I am over that, so I conclude that I need someone to burn me a new 1993 F-body ODBI chip based on the info below. I've also added the cam specs that I mentioned earlier in the thread that I would post.

Info for chip programmer:

This is a custom application I will tell you everything about my fresh rebuild and installed setup.
Details of my finished project in desperate need of a proper tune:

Chassis:
1986 Fiero sport coupe FORMER drivetrain - 2.5L 4 cyl THI25C Auto trans w/ODBI

LT1 Computer:
Street and Performance chipped 1992/1993 computer for stock LT1 engine 260HP (4 square plug style), 3 speed stock Fiero auto TH125c trans, 26" diameter tires, emissions on, VATS removed etc.
Piggybacked to Fiero harness as per V8Archie method.

Engine:
1995/1996 iron head 2 bolt main LT1 from Impala SS or Caprice 9C1? - not sure of exact year (had MAF but I removed, has vented optispark, water pump without bottom right front port)

Fresh performance rebuild - approx 375HP:

Bored 65 over approx 364 cu in or 6.0 L
Balanced stock crank
Wiseco Pro Tru Forged pistons 4.0600 bore, comp height 1.5605
Ported / Polished stock heads - do not have flow numbers or valve sizes yet but should be able to get specs from engine builder Stroker Performance
Stock spec rockers, lifters, new valves
Crane Cam Intake 228 / Exhaust 232 at 50 thou. Lift - Lobe separation 114 - Straight up
Shorty hugger headers with dual 2" exhaust approx 30" length each with twin cats and muffler tips.
Accel 26 lb/hr fuel injectors
Stock 48mm TB with TB coolant bypass
3"x30" CAI in stainless with IAT installed and K&N cone filter
Stock 1996 LT1 intake reversed on block
EGR hooked up, MAF removed
TPS, IAC, IAT, CTS, Oil pressure sensor, knock sensors, all new except MAP sensor
Optispark and MSD blaster coil new with Taylor 8mm wires
NGK TR6 plugs
Nitrous Express 100-300HP LT1 Pro (direct port wet kit) installed with 150 HP jets installed (#24 NO #20 fuel) as per Nitrous Express jetting chart.
Holley 255lph (Walbro) in tank fuel pump with stock regulator (41-47psi)
Performance High flow Oil Pump

Transmission Rebuild:

1990 Cadillac STS (Northstar) 4T60 - (non elec.) 4-speed overdrive transaxle
Rebuilt with hardened parts where available
333 Final Drive installed
1675rpm 10" Torque converter (new) - theory is that it will act like 600rpm higher approx 2300 stall when mated to torque of LT1 (also want to minimize broken axles)
37/32 sprockets / chain (3.73 Overall ratio)
2 wire trans plug
TV cable
Fixed Vacuum Modulator - hose from intake manifold


Misc. info:

Motor currently runs very rich/hot. I believe this is due to the stock 22lb injectors replaced with 26lb Accel injectors and performance rebuild with only stock LT1 tune
Running 94 Octane all the time
Nitrous activated by MSD Digital window switch and WOT switch. Window was suggested to me on at 2500-3000 rpm and off at 5500-6000 rpm.
Approx 9.5:1 compression
180 degree thermostat - 4 core rad with trans cooler and fan in operated manually currently - motor stays at 190 F after idling 5-10 minutes.
I currently have a GM Tech 1 and downloaded Data Master version 3.5 that I can use to gain more data
No codes flash other than 12 when pins a/b jumped
New O2 sensors are 93 Z28 spec - 2 both before cats one wire sensors (non-heated)
VSS is Fiero elect gear driven - Speedo not working
Tach wire on LT1 does not successfully operate Fiero tach - tach mod from 4 to 8 cyl completed
2 Knock sensors - no knock detected at idle - spark advance is 20-21 degrees.
Future plan to add MSD digital 6 box to retard timing on larger sprays i.e.. 200
Idle currently hunts from 700 to 1000 rpm.
Hard start when engine hot
Misses develop quickly with rich condition and fouls plugs quickly.
Left drivers 1,3,5,7 bank currently 100 degrees hotter than right as per laser handheld temp gauge - burnt paper collector gasket - replaced both with aluminium ones - problem also existed before rebuild.


If anyone knows a good programmer in Canada let me know - here are a couple links I found on some U.S. guys - let me know if they're good....

http://www.madtuner.com/index.php
http://www.pcmforless.com

Fiero2m8



Fiero2m8 MSG #173, 09-18-2006 10:25 PM
      What's going on - I haven't posted in a week due to laptop issues.
The new one is up and running so I've got some updates for you.

Tuning update:

After speaking with Mark at Street and Performance, I chose to keep dealing with them for the following reasons:

1) They required the most data in order to program and burn the chip
2) I agreed with his assessment of the data that the rich / hot exhaust problem is mainly at idle.
3) The ECM is going to fuel enrichment mode due to a lack of vacuum / map reading at idle.
4) That the low vacuum at idle is mainly due to the performance cam I am using.
5) The original chip was his best guess to get me close for a stock LT1/TH125c but now it's anything but stock! He still offered to do the chip at no charge since I couldn't provide an original data sheet when I ordered the ECM (motor not installed etc)

Since I didn't want to wait longer and would be without the car - he is going to burn a new chip and I will send him the old one back after I swap the new one in. (He has my CC# in case I don't return the old one)

Here is the data sheet I filled out using the GM Tech 1 scan tool and a vacuum gauge:



Some interesting stuff the Scanner told me:

A) Even with the low gearing, I am only revving 2100rpm at 100km (62mph) in overdrive using 25.6 diameter tires.
B) The speedo was only off 3% using his guess based on my tires and the stock TH125 - 62mph was actually 59mph on my GPS.
C) Spark advance was 21 degrees at idle with no Knock Retard
D) Running temp maintained at 190 degrees after it went into closed loop mode
E) Idle long term fuel trim dropped down to minimum 108 quickly after resetting trim to 128 on both banks.
F) O2 sensors functioning within specs when tested
G) TPS 0.64 V at idle
H) System voltage at 12.1 - 12.6V until I added a 4 gauge ground wire from the negative battery to the engine block - now 13.5 - 14.1 volts.

They are burning the new chip tomorrow in Arizona they think I will have it Thursday or Friday up here in Canada.

Here is a great link of theirs for the LT1/LT4 - great TECH info for anyone else is considering the LT1 swap including harness instructions for the ECM.

http://www.hotrodlane.cc/New%20LT%20Tech%20Page/LT%20links%20page.html

P.S.

ECM - Engine Control Module (ODBI)
PCM - Powertrain Control Module (ODBII)

I learn something new everyday

Fiero2m8




Fiero2m8 MSG #174, 09-19-2006 06:02 PM
      Saturday was the first day ALL the guages on my Fiero worked at the same time since the swap.

First I got the fuel guage working, then the temp gauge using the new LT1 sensor in the rear head.
The oil pressure guage worked once I connected the correct white wire from the new ECM to the white Fiero oil gauge wire.

That left the speedo and tach (the big gauges in the dash).

Here what I did to get them up and running....

Speedo - downloaded a diagram of the VSS system shown here:



I don't have cruise, so I needed to find the yellow and purple wires running to the instrument cluster.
I ended up running new wires from the C203 connector below the Fiero ECM location in the console to the governor.
The new wires were spliced into the new purple and yellow wires that go to the LT1 ECM matched yellow/yellow and purple/purple at the governor. At the C203 connector, again purple/purple and yellow/yellow were spliced. Now gauge works well and no VSS trouble codes shows up!

For the Tach, I first did the tach mod using the easy capacitor method of soldering in 64 micro farads using 2 - 22's and 2 - 1's in parallel to make 64. I used a cordless low heat/instant heat handheld that did a very nice job.
I finally convinced myself that I had the wrong white wire from the Fiero harness and downloaded a pinout diagram for the C500 connector (engine harness connector on passenger shock tower area in bay). Even though all the diagrams on the net and in my Haynes manual were white, mine was BLACK! I had predispositioned in my mind it had to be white, which drove me crazy until I decided to start from scratch. Turns out this black wire probably went to the Fiero Tach Filter which low and behold had black wire connected to it
Since I had sold the iron duke and didn't have another car to look at, I didn't remember this key information.

Below is a scan of my worksheet and pictures of the C203 and C500 connectors - I didn't agree with 100% of the info on it, so I made notes and labelled all my wires while going through the connector rows/columns. Perhaps different years, engines, or options have slightly different pinouts?



C203 connector


C500 connector



I can hardly believe that I may be ready to finally wrap the harness wiring!
A few wires I will keep handy for future wiring projects include decklid solenoid, fan control, hot engine idiot light and an Ign-on 12V+ wire I could mount an engine compartment light to on a switch for night viewing.



Fiero2m8



Fiero2m8 MSG #175, 09-20-2006 12:58 AM
      A must have link for the LT1 swap!

http://shbox.com/1/4th_gen_tech1.html

I used it to verify all my vacuum connections tonight.
I had to make a couple variations due to:

1) intake is reversed
2) Vacuum for 4T60 was required
3) My ECM and the Fiero didn't use a solenoid for the EVAP system

On the left side of the intake (now rear) I used the OptiSpark vacuum port for the 4T60:


One the right side of the intake (now front) I used the HVAC port for the Optispark:


All others remained as per the diagrams.

Fiero2m8



Fiero2m8 MSG #176, 09-20-2006 01:07 AM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by MotorTV:

btw... you are going to find that the line you pluged on the water pump.. (the line that goes nowhere in Wiston's pic) is REALY needed....


 
quote
Originally posted by Fiero2m8:

Thanks Chuck - I think that explains it.
I pulled the old pump out of the box that came with my iron head LT1 and as mentioned nothing at that port location on the housing - not even a plug.
However when I ordered the replacement pump I got one for an F-body that did have the aluminum heads...

Ryan


Hey Chuck,

I stumbled across this picture tonight confirming my hunch that the pumps are different on the Vette and Imapala versus F-bodies - I'll sleep better now





Fiero2m8 MSG #177, 09-20-2006 03:58 PM
      Well now I've got a sheered off bolt in this end of the head to match the one at the other end

Any ideas of how to support this torque monster from trying to jump out the back of the car?



Fiero2m8


Jake_Dragon MSG #178, 09-20-2006 04:26 PM
      Yep, solid mount the front of the motor and the tranny.

Fiero2m8 MSG #179, 09-21-2006 08:34 AM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by Jake_Dragon:

Yep, solid mount the front of the motor and the tranny.


I do have Archie's front solid mount and the trans braced with a solid strut bar.
The top front of the motor still tries to twist rearward.
I'll post what I try next.


tvelarde MSG #180, 09-24-2006 09:26 AM
      Wow!

Still totally amazed at the work you have put into this swap. Not being quite as ambitious as you are, I am in the midst of my own LT1 with 4T60 install but with a carbed motor. You indicated that you had issues with the rear header as far as clearance and had installed a 3/4 inch spacer to help move the exhaust outlet far enough away from the speedometer housing to clear. In your pictures I can see just how close it is.
I can't seem to locate any shorty headers that will allow this side to work, even with 3/4 and 1.5 inch spacers. I have tried some stock Corvette tubular headers, quite short but still too close, regular block huggers, Sanderson C90, and a couple of others with no idea of origin.

How did you modify the header to allow the clearance? I have gone through all my spare headers and many cast exhaust manifolds trying to gain sufficient clearance to get by my sppedometer housing, which looks identical to yours. Thanks for all the work you have done and for the boost to those of us not quite as intuitive as you are.


Jake_Dragon MSG #181, 09-24-2006 09:38 AM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by Fiero2m8:


I do have Archie's front solid mount and the trans braced with a solid strut bar.
The top front of the motor still tries to twist rearward.
I'll post what I try next.


If your lucky you will only break bolts. The tranny is moving around and stressing your mounts thats why they are failing. Its also putting a lot of stress on your tranny and could cause it to fail as well.
Its a bad idea to mix the type of mounts you use, the car I pulled my V8 kit out of had mixed mounts and the front tranny mount was toast. Once it let go the rest of them started to fail.
Good luck


Fiero2m8 MSG #182, 09-24-2006 04:01 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by tvelarde:


How did you modify the header to allow the clearance? I have gone through all my spare headers and many cast exhaust manifolds trying to gain sufficient clearance to get by my sppedometer housing, which looks identical to yours. Thanks for all the work you have done and for the boost to those of us not quite as intuitive as you are.


I took a standard SBC hugger header and cut the tubes at a 30 degree angle about an inch from the flange.
Then I had the muffler shop flip the flange over and reweld the tubes.
When you are done the angle that normally went towards the block now goes at the same angle away from the block (kind of like a mirror image).

Here's the progress today - my son Andrew convinced me to chop the top and paint the new roadster model for him - he also wants to swap motors with a Corvette model he has





Looks like I'd better get pros to paint my car
At least he says it "looks awesome"

Fiero2m8

[This message has been edited by Fiero2m8 (edited 09-24-2006).]

Fiero2m8 MSG #183, 09-24-2006 05:02 PM
      Update from yesterday's troubleshooting of a fuel pump that wouldn't shut off after ignition was turned off.

Did a search and found that most often it is a fuel pump relay or the oil pressure sending unit.

1) Unplugged the FPR - still kept running
2) Unplugged the oil sender - stopped
3) Going to replace both so I have a spare relay, since it wasn't easily available, and I can't swap it with the A/C relay in a future test like you can with a stock Fiero.

I believe I damaged the Oil pressure sensor when I accidently had it connected to a Tach signal wire from the ECM that has now been corrected.

Here is a shot of the GM part # for my relay and the ALDL connector right below it in the trunk:



Replacing the Oil pressure sensor ending up being a bigger job than I planned due to a lack of access!

Access to the Sensor was blocked by the IAC motor on the bottom of the throttle body.
Normally it wouldn't be a problem unless your intake is reversed like mine.
I tried removing the IAC but one of the two T-20 torx screws wouldn't clear the body of the Oil pressure sensor:



This meant removing the Throttle Body was necessary - it is held on by 4-10mm bolts.
The most time consuming part was cleaning the gasket surface using gasket remover etc. in order to prep for a new one.
Here is a view from the rear showing the hose connections, the top one provides crankcase vent to the rear valve cover. The middle one is a purge line for the vaccuum canister and the bottom one is capped, as I don't need coolant to warm the TB, as this car won't be winter driven. I took the time to clean the throttle plates with some brake cleaner while it is off:



With the TB removed, it is a direct swap of the sensors - the new one had sealant already on the threads.
Notice the arrangement of the two 90 degree fittings to keep it clear of the other sensors on the TB.



The hose in the centre goes to the PCV valve on the side of the intake manifold - if anyone needs info on anything else in these pics, let me know.



When I pick up a new TB to Intake gasket tomorrow, I should be back in business.

Fiero2m8




tvelarde MSG #184, 09-24-2006 07:54 PM
      WOW! Thanks for the fast response. I understand the concept and will go measure for the cuts. Thank you very much.

Andy


Fiero2m8 MSG #185, 09-25-2006 01:29 PM
      Look what the UPS guy delivered minutes ago:



Says "push" on both ends, so I guess it just plugs right in?

Anyone know where to open the ECM for the swap?

Here is a pic of my computer:



Fiero2m8 MSG #186, 09-25-2006 03:26 PM
      Well sometimes you just have to get off your butt and go out to the garage
Here are the steps as I discovered them:

1. Disconnect negative at battery (mine is in a sheet metal box in the front compartment)


2. Remove protective cover from ECM - (mine is homemade that fits in the trunk)


3. Remove 4 chip cover screws and gasket with 1/4" nut driver


4. Released two clips at ends of old chip and pull straight out


5. Chips can only go in one way due to keyed top centre and bottom left notches - in this case stickers were 180 degrees different between chips. Align notches and push chip in until you hear two clicks (the locking tabs moving back into place)


6. Re-install gasket/covers and battery negative.

Someone will search this one day and give me a + rating

Fiero2m8


Fiero2m8 MSG #187, 09-25-2006 09:53 PM
      Tonight I got all the harness wrapped using 1/4", 3/8",1/2", & 3/4" split loom.
Not the best stuff, but it was cheap and will do for now.
I had to make sure it stays well clear of the heat sources, so it doesn't melt:





On another note, I could smell gas, and it looks like I have a very small leak coming from under one of the support straps on the fuel tank.
I'm not really surprised given the number of times this original gas tank has been R/R over the last couple years.

I've also designed a solution to solve the melting knock sensor on the left bank, as it was too close to the header flange.
I should have those pictures by the weekend.

Always something, so I'll get at those items once I get the rear of the Fiero on car ramps again.
Bet you can tell I'm avoiding the dreaded bodywork

Fiero2m8


Fiero2m8 MSG #188, 09-26-2006 10:25 PM
      Well I went for a long test drive to get the ECM to learn some of its new programming.
Haven't changed the plugs yet which may be partly fouled, but the car is definitely idling better with the new chip.
I think I'm getting there with the tuning, but I still have to deal with high MAP (low vacuum) at idle and high IAC counts. The best news is the rich condition at idle is finally gone and the long term fuel trim stays near 128.

I plan to change the oil and plugs and then take some new readings with the scanner and try my new Datamaster Software with the laptop to log some data.

The bad news of the day is my Powermaster 9000 starter solenoid crapped out when I got home and I had to push it into the garage (first push since the rebuild)

This is the crap starter that I have killed two solenoids with:



Not sure how many teeth the Fiero auto flexplate has - that info would help for ordering purposes or does anyone know how many teeth the Powermaster 9000 is designed for?

On second thought, this was my second Powermaster 9000 in 2 years so I refuse to buy another!!!

What are my options?
I did a search and the PMR-9004 seems like an upgrade with better gearing, but I was worried it may be larger, not to mention it's still a Powermaster
Space is a premium with Archie auto setups. What do you SBC V8 guys using Archie's kit like the best?
I'm sure that relocating the new battery to the front compartment didn't help any either...
My LT1 is build with 10-10.5:1 compression and it complained while cranking with anything less than a full battery charge - matters got worse during hot starts!



tvelarde MSG #189, 09-28-2006 09:49 AM
      From the number of questions increasing on this site, there seems to be renewed interest in using the 4 speed automatic overdrive transmissions. You may have just started a great trend. If not, well then the rest of us that are in the midst of building one will continue to re-read every word as often as possible. I learn more everytime I read that thread.

Andy


Fiero2m8 MSG #190, 09-28-2006 12:24 PM
      Thanks Andy, plus for you (4T60 swap) - the funny thing is most of the questions are coming from me
PFF is great and I wish I knew about it before I registered earlier this year.

I looked back a few posts and realized I should provide some updates:
First to get the car on jack stands - I used 6 this time since the motor / trans are heavy and I didn't want to get squished




Since the fuel drip was so minor, it took a while to pinpoint the leak.
Eventually I cleaned this area up enough to create a pinhole so I knew what area to repair.
It was in one of the recessed areas, not under the strap as I previously had guessed.




This is the product I used for the repair as recommended by the muffler shop.
It is amazing stuff that dries quickly and allows you to build layers up on itself.
The best part is that since it is designed to fix holes in lawnmower gas tanks etc. it is not affected by gasoline!
Case in point - when I sanded and cleaned the area to be repaired, a tiny stream of fuel was peeing out and a small dab on my finger stopped the leak within a second. After 10 minutes I filled in the recess area with Seal - All temporarily held in with a piece of duct tape. I've seen this stuff used on seams too. I've also used cold weld in the past, but it only works when the tank is empty. Try it on a minor leak - it's like $5 and our tanks are getting old without an easy source for replacements...




My Knock Sensor project didn't go exactly as planned.
The 1994 iron head LT1 uses 2 sensors 1 almost touches the 4T60 tailshaft making plugging it in tricky and the other side burnt during my running rich problem after the rebuild.
My idea was to 90 it out of the way with pipe threads but I didn't have clearance to install this without removing the header
Since it didn't melt before the rich problem, I elected to replace it as before, but I wrapped the plug with some header tape as an extra precaution shown here:



The new sensor has sealant already on the threads, but make sure you're ready for a quick swap or you'll be wearing coolant at engine temp

I'm also a member on CamaroZ28.com and often research their LT1/LT4 tech and Nitrous pages for good info.
One of the problems I had lately with the idle was a very high IAC reading around 80 when 20-40 would be ideal.
With my new cam, it is looking for more intake air at idle, so I followed this procedure to correct it:

1. With the engine idling and the scanner on, I adjusted the throttle stop screw out (opening butterfly valves) until my IAC count was around 30 (my IAC learned # was 32)

2. Next I had to remove the TPS sensor as it was now at .9 volts and 5% open on the scanner. To correct it back to the middle of its 0.2 - 0.9 volt idle range, I drilled the holes into slots to allow rotational adjustment:


3. Then I reinstalled the sensor and set it at 0.58 volts with throttle position at 0% per scanner reading from ECM.

4. After everything was reconnected, I performed an IAC reset. For details check out this link thanks to "shoebox" -
http://shbox.com/1/4th_gen_tech2.html#iac_reset

5. Verified with scanner and immediately noticed less eratic idle and starts much better without throttle depressed

Fiero2m8

[This message has been edited by Fiero2m8 (edited 09-28-2006).]

Fiero2m8 MSG #191, 09-29-2006 11:12 PM
      Went for a cruise tonight and got a few pictures before it got dark.
Nice to get some pictures from somewhere other than the garage.








Fiero2m8 MSG #192, 09-30-2006 10:45 PM
      Well I found an engine shop in Fonthill that keeps the starters in stock for $150 so I picked one up to try it out.
I also called Archie about the Powermaster 9004 12:1 compression starter to see if it fits.
As usual, Archie is great to share ideas with but he wasn't sure about the 9004 model.
I decided to order one up, so I can have a look at one in my hands vs. the Powermaster 9000
According the supplier's tech desk, the only dimension different is the length at 1 inch longer which shouldn't be an issue.
I will post results of my findings when I check it out this week.

I also finally got an exact compression ratio from Rod at Stroker Performance.
The compression was lowered to 9.8:1 for the nitrous application, so I shouldn't really need the most expensive starter you can buy.
On the other hand, we are driving smaller flexplates than most SBC's, so that may be a factor as it would change the overall gearing.

In the meantime, I took some pictures of my no name far east starter that looks identical to the Powermaster 9000.
The shop I got it from uses one to start big blocks on his dyno several times a week over the last 6 months, so I am hoping it will be good value and a 10 min drive if I ever need another one in a pinch.

Here is the starter out of the box right after I remounted the starter block 180 degrees for a V8 Archie automatic application:




On the test fit, I figured out where I would have to notch the block to clear the engine cradle - there was already a notch on the opposite corner but since I flipped it around, I needed to cut my own with a hacksaw:






In my case, 2 shims provided the best alignment and removing the shim between the starter and the block bought it a little closer to the flexplate:




The top bolt goes through Archie's sleeved hole and is a snug fit, while I bored the lower a little to allow for vertical tweaking:




Here is a shot of the remote oil filter adapter with the starter removed:




And one showing the clearance after the starter is reinstalled:




Last is the electrical connections, + terminal consists of:

1. battery positive cable (red)
2. LT1 computer power wire (black)
3. Battery charging wire - from alternator

and the small terminal takes the starter wire from the park/neutral plug on the transmission (Purple wire that is +12V when key in "start" position)




Feel free to ask questions if I've missed anything here...

P.S. The car starts easily and quickly now, but is noisy due to a worn flexplate that we forgot to replace - I will pick up a new one this winter to have on hand the next time the cradle is lowered from the engine bay for any reason.

Fiero2m8

[This message has been edited by Fiero2m8 (edited 09-30-2006).]

Fiero2m8 MSG #193, 10-02-2006 04:41 PM
      Here's the specs on the Powermaster 9004.
It does look identical on the outside except the 1 inch additional length.



I might as well post the Installation Instructions too, since they apply to all Hitachi style Chevy Hi-Torque units:





Fiero2m8


Fiero2m8 MSG #194, 10-25-2006 06:17 PM
      Not much happening on the build lately as it's parked for the winter.
I did some research on how to fix the pesky oil leak at the water pump drive.
Here are a couple threads on it:

http://web.camaross.com/forums/showthread.php?t=462608&highlight=front+oil+leak
http://web.camaross.com/forums/showthread.php?t=474803&highlight=front+oil+leak

I also gathered the seals and parts I need for the fix - here are the pics with GM part #''s









Basically, I'll be carefully replacing the seals and sleeve at the cam driven water pump at the top of the timing cover:





Fiero2m8 MSG #195, 12-02-2006 12:36 AM
      A few updates for the die hard build thread junkies

Weather was good here last week, so I drove out to GM dealership that I know the owner of.
Their bodyshop has agreed to mask and paint any base / clear of my choice this spring when the bodywork is done.
Cost is $500 - for 2 hours prep and they supply materials.

Today I had a glass shop visit the garage and Rick removed my cracked windshield at no charge.
Once the car is painted he is returning to install a new one for $300 CDN. in the spring - he only needs 48hrs notice to order the glass / moulding. In the meantime I need to replace or repair the body trim surround that is broken.

Lately I've been reading up on bodywork / prep and still haven't decided whether to mold in my flairs and skirts yet.

Also today I ordered the light tan leatherette seats from Mr. Mikes - another winter project that should be here in about a week. I'll post pictures when they arrive - here is the online order form I used.

https://secure.bcentralhost.com/mrmikes.com/fieroxmas13.htm

Since the car is an open roadster, I actually prefer the idea of going with Leatherette given a remote possibility of them getting wet in the future.


Fiero2m8


exoticse (exoticse@netzero.com) MSG #196, 12-02-2006 12:47 AM
     

Ever think of building some kind of diffuser for the back ?


Fiero2m8 MSG #197, 12-02-2006 12:56 AM
      Yep quite a bit - it would look quite a bit better with some of that exhaust hidden.
Here was my first attempt but I didn't like the result enough to keep it on:



Since I can't get a jack under the car easily, I have been backing onto car ramps to work under the engine bay.
I guess I'd better finalize all the mods soon so I can work on finishing the prep work...

Any ideas or pic suggestions are welcome.

Rye


THE BEAST (jgomez@ircc.cc.fl.us) MSG #198, 12-02-2006 12:46 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by Fiero2m8:

Went for a cruise tonight and got a few pictures before it got dark.
Nice to get some pictures from somewhere other than the garage.







Where did you get the front spoiler?

Thanks,
JG


Fiero2m8 MSG #199, 12-02-2006 01:10 PM
      Hey JG,

The front spoiler is off a 1990 Crysler Daytona Turbo.
The width is perfect for a bumper pad car but the sides had the be shortened due to less overhang on the the Fiero.
Currently the seam is covered by a small adhesive bodyside moulding, but I am considering moulding it in flush like Bonzo.
Although I'm a little worried about touching a curb and cracking it after paint...


Fiero2m8 MSG #200, 01-02-2007 09:35 PM
      HAPPY NEW YEAR!

Just like last year, I decided that January 2nd would be a good day to start back on my Fiero project.

Santa brought me a set of the Tan Leatherette seat covers - Thanks Mr. Mike as everything arrived as expected and undamaged. The DVD is not only informative but entertaining

Here is the link the xmas sale page:

https://secure.bcentralhost.com/mrmikes.com/_vti_bin/shtml.exe/fieroxmas13.htm

Thanks again Mike as I know we were talking about the idea of an all leatherette tan seat for several months.
They will certainly be roadster friendly in the event they do get damp, and the pricing was similar the The Big Fiero book prices - roll back!

Project started by removing the old seats by removing the 4 - 13mm nuts and then removing the tracks, seat covers and remaining hardware. I am not going to detail every task as Mr. Mikes video covers everything. Of course, as always, if you have any specific questions, feel free to ask away...

Here are a few shots of the seats after removal and disassembly:

Interior with seats unbolted:




Seats with black seat covers removed:




Tracks:


Hardware:




New seats in box:




Tan Leatherette upper cover with Fiero stitching:




Hopefully finished install to look similar to F-I-E-R-O forum member using Mr. Mike's Leather:



antinull.com MSG #201, 01-02-2007 10:22 PM
      so when can i come out and go for a spin? it would be nice to have head room in a fiero

Fiero2m8 MSG #202, 01-04-2007 09:05 AM
      Thanks for looking - I'm hoping to be back on the road this spring.
Let me know if you come to Niagara this year or even London and I'm sure it could be arranged

I had Standard Auto Glass come by the garage and remove my cracked windshield at no charge.
When the car is painted, he is coming back after 48hrs notice to install a new one for $300 CDN.
I need to find a new surround first - I met a guy in Welland that thinks he has a spare, we'll see I guess.

Here's a couple shots of the windshield removed...







Fiero2m8 MSG #203, 01-06-2007 09:04 PM
      Update on the seat prep:

I went and picked up the spray adhesive since it wasn't shipped across the border due to TDG hassles...
BTW - this post is brought to you by Alexander Keith's




I must admit that I didn't follow the DVD instructions exactly in order.
I understand the concept of leaving one chair intact as reference, but I prefer to use the assembly line method copying each task from one seat to the next. I only did this after watching the whole video though and deemed that although I'm a rookie at unholstery work, it was still relatively straight forward given the scope of this project.

This is the seats with all existing unholstery removed - I used side cutters to remove all the existing hog rings:




I like the tip of reinstalling the lower bolts to assist finding the spot to cut later for hardware:




The kit comes with new hog rings, razor blades and a tool for installation of rings:




To assist installation for novices, Mr Mike recommends removing notches of foam to expose the wire, so you can see what you are attaching the rings to:




For the lower section of the seats, foam pads are supplied and spray glued to the seat bottom - I noticed that piece #1 is about twice the height of the one in the video - does anyone know if it should be cut? I thought they are all precut, but modifiying it would be easy...




For the upper sections, it is recommended to salvage the existing foam from the old upholstery and spray glue them into position after removing existing foam in order to expose the wires for rings:




Also included in the kit are instructions and cotton for repairing old worn bolsters:




One thing I have found with this type of work - patience is key, so I am going to save the install of the new skins for another day.
Here are a few shots of the new seat colour and the seats prepped for reinstallation:






Ryan


Fiero2m8 MSG #204, 01-21-2007 09:16 PM
      This afternoon I took my seat project into the basement to take advantage of warmer temps to ease the new seat cover installation. Following along with the DVD, I decided to work on the two seat bottoms. Installation of the new hog rings using the supplied tool is very easy. Just follow each step pausing the DVD as you go. Here are some pictures after today's progress on the bottoms recovered with the new tan leatherette:




Here is the first one installed with new hog rings and existing listing rods:




The second one when much faster - about 20-30 minutes:




The key is taking your time if you've never done this type of work before to ensure you don't rip or damage the new covers:




I will be recovering the seatbacks and reassembling the seats later this week...
Thanks for looking.

Ryan



antinull.com MSG #205, 01-21-2007 10:27 PM
      very nice

Fiero2m8 MSG #206, 01-23-2007 07:07 PM
      Last night I got one of the seatbacks redone after a Manhattan to calm my nerves
The driver's side outer bolster needed a repair so following the steps in Mr. Mikes printed material, I added cotton and duct tape:




The covers come inside out, so you start by aligning the headrest and then rolling down the shoulders and the seatback.
I added cotton in the shoulder area as suggested in the video to eliminate wrinkles:




After the two listing rods are installed (a little tricky so be careful) the bottom seams are hog ringed to each other:




One down and one to go.
I also added cotton to the bolsters on the lower sections of the seat for a nicer fit and to better match the look of the seatback.
Next update by the end of the week should show both seats complete and reassembled.
Thanks again Mr. Mike!

Ryan


Fiero2m8 MSG #207, 01-25-2007 12:55 AM
      Alright, after another hour tonight the seats are done except reassembly of the hardware and tracks.
I am keeping the seats out until the bodywork is done so they will be stored inside for a while.
Here is a macro shot to display how nice the stitching of the Fiero emblem is - I recommend ordering the seat covers with emblems to give them a factory look:




Thanks also to www.myfiero.com for hosting the pictures here on page 6:




I highly recommend tackling this seat project yourself, as it is cost saving and you will find the results rewarding and satisfying:



I think the next posts will shift to a few mechanical repairs and upgrades in the engine bay while everything is clean prior to bodywork mods and paint prep. Stay tuned

Fiero2m8


SAFASTRO MSG #208, 01-25-2007 11:07 AM
      Great job on those seat covers !!!
They look awesome !!



Fiero2m8 MSG #209, 01-27-2007 01:06 AM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by SAFASTRO:

Great job on those seat covers !!!
They look awesome !!



Thanks, plus rating for you

Fiero2m8


Fiero2m8 MSG #210, 02-04-2007 02:58 PM
      So I got the seats bolted back together and tracks installed.
I took some pictures of them completed and sitting temporarily back in the car to show you how they look and the colour match etc...
I will be pulling them out to keep them clean during the bodywork.

It's been cold here, so once I get the woodstove reinstalled, I am going to tackle a few mechanical upgrades, which will give me more time to decide if any further body mods are desired before paint.

Finished bottom of Drivers Seat with tracks installed:



Side view showing seatback lever and trim with belt guide re-installed:


Finished seat on kitchen floor-very comfortable BTW


View from passenger side with door closed:


Front view shot through windshield frame:


Drivers side shot with door open:


Feels great to have the seats finally re-done and very satisfying to have done it myself - another car show story I can tell.
They were an eyesore since I got the car and I'm glad they turned out exactly as Mr. Mike promised - Thanks again Mike.

Enjoy the SuperBowl guys....



Fiero2m8 MSG #211, 02-25-2007 08:27 PM
      So now that my woodstove is reinstalled and I have heat, I got motivated this weekend to do a little work:

1) Started the car and backed onto car ramps
2) Put the Fiero on jack stands to ease body work and allow motor to be lowered for Flexplate replacement
3) Removed the four rim/tires and put into storage, I plan to install new ones in the spring
4) Removed the new seats and put into storage to protect them from damage during bodywork
5) Put a fresh charge into the battery


I am going for an exterior body as smooth as possible so I removed the stock side marker lights and all the bodyside moldings:




The Sunbird Turbo fender flares are going to be blended in, so I removed the rubber strip from them so they can later can be fiberglassed right to the body:




I also plan to remove the outside door handles and lock cylinders since they were part of the bodyside molding and they aren't really needed on my roadster (weight savings too )
In order to do that, I will need to remove the interior door panels first:




Also removed was all the moldings around the side skirts as they will also be blended in to appear like part of the body rather than tacked on:



I still need ideas on the following:

1) How to best remove the molding at the front and rear of the car
2) What rear valance to use to hide the catalytic converters from plain view
3) How to improve on the B-pillar cover area and make trim to overlap the interior panels
4) How to replace the flexplate and starter by doing the least work possible
5) The best method for fiberglassing on the body and getting a good bond
6) A new side marker light solution
7) A new surround for the windshield
8) Possible elimination of the sun visors and recovering the upholstery
9) Molding in the hood vents near the rad that provide fan exhaust
10) Finishing rear spoiler that currently isn't as long as the rear deck

Thanks for looking...
Fiero2m8


Mr.PBody (paniccia008@aol.com) MSG #212, 02-25-2007 08:43 PM
      I can't help with all of the questions but I will say this, the best why to hide something (cats) is to just not have them.

Sweet car, I can't wait to see all the panels moulded. Have you thought about a hardtop?


Mr.PBody (paniccia008@aol.com) MSG #213, 02-25-2007 08:47 PM
      I just looked at my car, what about the later aero GT rear bumper?

exoticse (exoticse@netzero.com) MSG #214, 02-26-2007 01:15 AM
     

I really like the side skirts !

You ever consider some kind of diffuser in the back?


Fiero2m8 MSG #215, 02-26-2007 08:28 PM
      Hi guys,

Yes the cats were needed to pass the final E-test last year.
I might remove them in the future in order to fix some type of mufflers, not sure what I could get to fit though.
Hardtop - yes, it's a back burner idea...not this year but copying the Miata design was the plan.
This year a tonneau cover is probably all I will have made, since it's not a daily driver.

I do think the side skirts will turn out good when completed and I still like the front apron the best.
Does anyone know if the bumper pads can be shaved flush or is there not enough material there?

I am considering changing the rear bumper cover to one that has the dual exhaust indents if I can find one around here..here's a shot of what I'm talking about:




I've messed around with rear skirts before but I might leave it alone this time cause it is the only way to get under the car currently! Painting the exhaust Black might help the cat from being so noticeable.
This picture was taken from a low angle which you normally wouldn't do but you get the idea...



BH2OFiero (valbrown@ns.sympatico.ca) MSG #216, 02-27-2007 12:24 PM
      looking good. What color do you have in mind for the car?



Fiero2m8 MSG #217, 02-28-2007 09:52 PM
      2006 Corvette black - everything black except the glass.



PaulJK MSG #218, 03-01-2007 03:23 AM
      I'd STRONGLY suggest doing something for roll-over protection since the "B" pillar structure is now gone. You surely don't wanna depend solely on the windshield frame to support the weight of the car if you get hit and rolled.

Fiero2m8 MSG #219, 03-01-2007 08:58 AM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by PaulJK:

I'd STRONGLY suggest doing something for roll-over protection since the "B" pillar structure is now gone. You surely don't wanna depend solely on the windshield frame to support the weight of the car if you get hit and rolled.


I was at the Toronto Auto Show last week wondering about that, while looking at the new Saturn Sky Redline - it doesn't provide much rollover protection either when the seat is the highest point and my head was the height of the windshield...



I guess that's something I could add anything if I find a design I like.
I am glad the Fiero is so wide and is now only a couple inches off the ground making it very stable on its feet providing you keep it on the road...

Fiero2m8


FierOmar (davidcordier@sbcglobal.net) MSG #220, 03-01-2007 10:45 AM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by Fiero2m8:
I was at the Toronto Auto Show last week wondering about that, while looking at the new Saturn Sky Redline - it doesn't provide much rollover protection either when the seat is the highest point and my head was the height of the windshield...

I guess that's something I could add anything if I find a design I like.
I am glad the Fiero is so wide and is now only a couple inches off the ground making it very stable on its feet providing you keep it on the road...

Fiero2m8


Kirk Racing (Alabama) makes a roll bar for the Fiero. We purchased one to put into our roadster, but were told that it was still too short for the competition that we wanted to enter. So, we ordered a another special roll bar from Kirt Racing which is about 4" taller with the veritcal portion of the bar closer to being perpendicular to the top bar when compared to their standard bar (side vertical bars angle slightly inward from the point of the cross bar). Photos can be found on this page: http://www.fiero.nl/forum/A...0710-1-037446-2.html

As a side point, I like that front spoiler on front bumper cover. Daytona you say? Can you provide some close up photos?



85SE MSG #221, 03-04-2007 01:13 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by Fiero2m8:

I still need ideas on the following:

<clip>
Thanks for looking...
Fiero2m8


Ryan,

I'm still very much enjoying this thread. I can't help much, but I have a few ideas for you on your points:

2) What rear valance to use to hide the catalytic converters from plain view

How about a GT rear bumper with the mods as done by Fie Ro? He molded a GT wing into the bottom of a GT bumper. Looks darn cool. Not sure how it would look with your other mods, but it's a thought.

6) A new side marker light solution

(Assuming it's front markers you need) - I'm partial to the Mini Cooper side marker like Bubbajoe is using, or the 2003 Mazda Protege side markers (or something similar). I would like to add the Protege side markers to my car eventually.

Like I said, not a lot of help

Andrew


85SE MSG #222, 03-04-2007 01:16 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by Fiero2m8:
Does anyone know if the bumper pads can be shaved flush or is there not enough material there?


Unfortunately, there is no chance of doing that. The inner contours follow the outer contours. You'd end up with two big ol holes there I have a spare coupe bumper in the basement that I can dig out and take a pic of if that would help.

Andrew


Fiero2m8 MSG #223, 03-04-2007 10:46 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by FierOmar:


http://www.fiero.nl/forum/A...0710-1-037446-2.html

As a side point, I like that front spoiler on front bumper cover. Daytona you say? Can you provide some close up photos?



Thanks, I like that car and I agree that the rollbar should be higher especially with a windshield so low.

Here are a couple close up shots of the 1990 Chrysler Daytona Turbo front spoiler as requested (sorry I didn't clean it first...)





Fiero2m8


Fiero2m8 MSG #224, 03-04-2007 10:52 PM
      Thanks Andrew!

Do you have any pics of the side marker lights you are referring too?
Thanks for the info on the bumper pads - I didn't think so but it was worth asking.
I have seen the GT wing mod here on Pennocks before and I think it was genius.
I'll probably end up searching the boneyard to find something that will look fairly unique once the weather improves.

Ryan


85SE MSG #225, 03-06-2007 05:37 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by Fiero2m8:

Thanks Andrew!

Do you have any pics of the side marker lights you are referring too?
Thanks for the info on the bumper pads - I didn't think so but it was worth asking.
I have seen the GT wing mod here on Pennocks before and I think it was genius.
I'll probably end up searching the boneyard to find something that will look fairly unique once the weather improves.

Ryan


You're welcome Glad I can help in some little way. I'm looking forward to visiting Niagara one of these years and looking you up

Anyhow, the MINI markers that Joe used look like this:
(I took this from his thread).

When installed on the car they look like this:

The Protege markers are pretty generic oval / Euro side marker lights -

Now that I've gone through that, I just realized you're probably looking for something closer to the end of the car than the middle. D'oh!

Andrew


bonzo (llaaragon@cs.com) MSG #226, 03-08-2007 06:14 AM
      Ryan,

A Kamei rear might help hide the Cat. I believe there are a few of these floating around here on PFF.


P.S.
My LT1 is running. I need to get it aligned and the A/C charged. Still working on getting the Tach to work.



Fiero2m8 MSG #227, 03-11-2007 12:35 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by bonzo:

My LT1 is running. I need to get it aligned and the A/C charged. Still working on getting the Tach to work.



Thanks Bonzo, nice to hear from ya...
The Tach was a tricky guage to get working for me and it's still not accurate, details are in this thread.

I decided to focus on the cosmetic stuff first as the mechnical can be done anytime and the car is running fine as is for the meantime.
So I've got it back on the ground and am using an old boat cover of mine to help keep the interior clean.








Fiero2m8


sargeants MSG #228, 03-13-2007 08:25 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by Fiero2m8:

I am considering changing the rear bumper cover to one that has the dual exhaust indents if I can find one around here..here's a shot of what I'm talking about:






I'm glad you like the stock backend I've got... but I think I kinda need it left on the car.
...Just passing through the forums for some info myself and found this - nice to see it's coming along, and a great read.
- Likely see you back in Fonthill this summer (maybe other places too)
Steve



85SE MSG #229, 03-15-2007 05:09 PM
      Ryan,

I've been thinking about your front marker conundrum. Assuming that you need something for in front of the wheel to replace the lost light there, how about one of the vertical lights from a Focus GFX?

This images is larger than 102400 bytes. Click to view.

Something about the styling upgrades they did on that car looks really good.

Just a thought, worth $0.02 or less

Andrew


Fiero2m8 MSG #230, 03-22-2007 02:40 PM
      Last weekend I got the door handles and lock cylinders removed on both sides on the car.
It involved removing the inner door panels to gain access to the hardware.
It should result in a smoother look once the bodyside moulding is filled in.
Now I've got to search on the best way to fill in the gaps and avoid future cracking - I think jscott had some info on this...





Fiero2m8



sargeants MSG #231, 03-23-2007 02:44 PM
      just flipping through the forums and came across this thread with a nicely crafted rear bumper that may be a good fit...

http://www.fiero.nl/forum/F...1/HTML/061545-5.html
*also a decent build there...


antinull.com MSG #232, 04-06-2007 04:40 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by Fiero2m8:

Thanks for looking - I'm hoping to be back on the road this spring.
Let me know if you come to Niagara this year or even London and I'm sure it could be arranged



id drive that far for a spin and to check the car out ^_-
a fiero roadster would be ideal for me lol


Fiero2m8 MSG #233, 04-23-2007 09:08 PM
      Well we had a beautiful weekend up here which prompted me to take Fiero2m8 out for it's first spin of the year.
I am pleased to report that it started, ran and drove beautifully with no issues
My 10 year old son Andrew and I lined up in front of the house with a half dozen of his friends watching when he asked me to launch the car (without nitrous cause I don't have a bottle warmer yet).
Trust me he didn't need to twist my arm as we proceeded to rocket off the line - no burnout here, it hooked hard even with the 3.73 overall gear ratio
We left 2 - 55 foot long by 245mm wide black rubber marks on the street!!!!!
Maybe someone can explain for me why without posi, I have 2 marks - all I can think of is good balance, excellent weight transfer and lots of torque...
I didn't get a video or picture of it this time, but if today's rain didn't watch them away, I'll snap a pic of the marks.

Here are a few pictures I did take yesterday...

After much deliberation, I decided to reinstall the stock indicator lights in favour of new ones.
This was mainly due to the fact that, I didn't want to remove the wrap around body moulding in the front and rear since they are part of the bumper covers rather than separate pieces.




So, between the wheelwells, I am going smooth the groove out and install a new moulding in the proper width, but one that ends up being fairly flush with the rest of the door.
This will take less work, better match the ends of the car and reduce the possibililty of cracking bodywork in a high vibration area like the doors...




Here is the first shot of the seats in the sunlight.
I think I will be replacing the firewall carpet with black carpet to better match the new proposed black body colour and highlight the seats better.
Also the carpet didn't clean up as well as I had hoped.



Bodywork coming soon as I have a goal of getting it to the paint shop next month...

Thanks for looking



Dana McAlister (arrowheadgt@hotmail.com) MSG #234, 05-08-2007 08:27 PM
      BUMP! great thread

Fiero2m8 MSG #235, 06-05-2007 09:14 AM
      Found a few nice pictures from the 2005 Central Pontiac Fonthill show:

Andrew and I


Rear view of new exhaust (at the time)


Interior with a roof over it


Stock LT1 mated to the original TH125 (lasted one summer)


New updates coming this week

Ryan and Fiero2m8

[This message has been edited by Fiero2m8 (edited 06-05-2007).]

Fiero2m8 MSG #236, 06-09-2007 06:34 PM
      I need to find a new body surround for the windshield.
I think I know where there is a car I can get one off, but I'd have to be very careful not to break it during removal.
That Butyl Rope can be a pain to remove...
In preparation for that, I removed everything off the header (sun visors, interior lamps etc).
Now the new body trim can be installed.
The Sunbird convertible interior piece is going to be re-upholstered in a black or tan.
Here is the top of the windshield with everything removed:




Next I worked on the fender flares. With the rubber strips removed, I sanded the flares and surrounding body with a 40grit sandpaper to give the fiberglass a better surface to adhere to.
Here is the front passenger side:




As you can see here, the flares off the Sunbird Turbo were orginally red.
Here is the rear passenger side:




Next, 24 strips of fiberglass cloth were cut into strips 2" wide by 8" long and were applied and embedded in the fiberglass resin.
Here is the front drivers side glassed:




The rear flare was done next and will need to blend into the Trans Am intake air vent:




Lots of sanding ahead of me!
I'm taking next week off and plan to work on it full time so I can get it to paint ASAP



Fiero2m8


Fiero2m8 MSG #237, 06-20-2007 07:54 PM
      I must admit that this is the largest amount of bodywork I've attempted myself.
However, gradual progress was made last week during my days off.
It's a slow process of repetition, elbow grease and patience!
Hopefully the results will be rewarding.
In the first pic, I grinded and roughed up the area where the door moldings were.
Once prepped, the fiberglass cloth was embedded and built up to flush with the rest of the door:




Here is a shot of the rear pillar I made with the window rolled up.
I didn't like the indent just above the rear top edge of the door...




Here are a couple pictures of the new design.
I built the fiberglass out flush with the door and made the whole top a rectangle.
Then I used my angle grinder converted into a sander with 80 Grit sandpaper to shape a notch.
The notch allows the widow to be completely rolled up if necessary.
I don't plan on running the windows up (pet peeve of mine) but wanted them to retain their ability to roll up completely:




Now I just have to make the driver's side look the same




Another area I wanted to smooth was around the rad vents I added.
I roughed up the area with 40 Grit sandpaper and fiberglassed them in:




I also glassed the top of the side skirts to the doors
I decided not to glass the front apron/spoiler in case I touch a curb after it's painted that might cause a crack.
With the fiberglass done, now is the time consuming process of sanding layers of pro body filler with gradually finer sandpaper:



Stay tuned for more pics this week - Ryan



Fiero2m8 MSG #238, 06-22-2007 06:14 PM
      A few new pictures...

Body filler sanded around hood vents:




I decided to blend the rear spoiler into the decklid.
Here is the the front edge after fiberglass has been cured:




This is the rear view before the fiberglass has been sanded and body filler applied:




Another layer of filler was applied to the doors and rear scoops and flares.
Lots more sanding on the weekend planned


exoticse (exoticse@netzero.com) MSG #239, 06-22-2007 11:29 PM
     

Looking good !

Do you plan to remove the molding trim on the back and rear sides ?


Fiero2m8 MSG #240, 06-23-2007 02:02 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by exoticse:
Looking good !

Do you plan to remove the molding trim on the back and rear sides ?

Nice to hear from you again - lately I was wondering if I'm just posting for myself...

I hadn't thought of that but I like the idea - stay tuned

Any other opinions/suggestions out there?


85SE MSG #241, 06-23-2007 03:05 PM
      Hey Ryan!

Sorry that I haven't posted lately - I haven't been here much myself. Been terribly busy with work plus slowly working on this:


This is the first car I've ever drained the oil out of (though I've done some basic stuff on my Fiero) so it's pretty slow going - learning as I go. The engine and tranny are going to have a home in my Fiero eventually. Lot of time and $$$ between here and there though, like most projects.

Anyway, I can't wait to see your car in paint. I think it's going to look amazing! Those fender flares have got me thinking...

Andrew


Fiero2m8 MSG #242, 06-24-2007 11:07 PM
      Some progress this weekend, slow but in the right direction.
The front flares are the right shape as it's looking more like a widebody kit.
They are ready for scratch removal and finer sandpaper:




The front antenna hole was glassed in last year and hasn't cracked which is good news, so it got a coat of bondo today:




I was very happy with the blending of the side skirts to the door.
The rear of the door was a little too thick, so I sanded in down flush with the panel behind it.
You have to be careful while using the long block on the doors that you don't press too hard.
Since the panels are flexible it can cause waves (high and low spots):




Here is a shot of the redesigned b-pillar covers and a few tools of the trade:




The rear spoiler fiberglass was sanded with coarse paper to shape and is ready for a coat of filler:




I am trying to stay patient - the paint is the first thing everyone will notice...
Since I've put hundreds of hours into the car already, mostly in the engine bay - I don't want to rush the bodywork.
My plan is to get it as close as possible to ready for paint and then bring it to the bodyshop where they will probably point out more work that needs finishing.
At that time I can negotiate whether I finish it under their supervision or pay the experts for the final prep.

Cheers,
Ryan

BTW nice 4.9 you got there Andrew - you'll learn quick by getting your hands dirty.
If you haven't already I would suggest a Haynes Manual or similar book for that car so you can read and learn as you go.


Fiero2m8 MSG #243, 07-07-2007 08:53 PM
      Good news today - I've now got an important piece to finishing my project.

First I went to look at a Fiero for sale in Niagara Falls for $300.
It was a red 1984 2.5L 4spd.
Since I really don't have anywhere to store it for parts, I decided to pass on it.
Then I went to see the Father/Son that were building there own car from a Fiero chassis.
It is coming along nicely and has an all metal removeable body.
The roof line and doors are from a TR7 while the seats, floor pan, firewall, engine/transaxle are Fiero.
Tailights are round Ford Fairlane - the overall design reminds me of a Lotus Extige.
Sorry I didn't have my camera, but the orginal design of the widebody fenders with air intakes were very cool (77" wide!).
The wraparound dash is also all original and should look great when done.

Front suspension was Fiero and brakes were Cadillac
He still had his 1985 GT parts car that I bought the decklid off of last year.
With their help, I was able to remove and purchase the windshield surround for $50 (actually I gave $60 because they helped me remove it in one piece undamaged)

I couldn't help but notice the aero style font and rear bumper covers - hmmmmm!
I do like the appearance of my front end, but I might be going back to get the rear cover - haven't decided yet.
The dual exhaust outlets, lower valance to hide my cat's and no bumperettes might look sweet.
However, I would have to redo the rear fender flares with fiberglass to make them fit.
I'm also a little concerned it won't match the side skirts or the front bumper in appearance.

Better decide soon, I guess.
Any input would be appreciated.
Here are the pics of the two rear bumper cover styles for comparison.

My current bumperette cover:




The style I found today on the black 1985 GT (This is Steve's car from page 6, thanks again):




Fiero2m8


Fiero2m8 MSG #244, 07-09-2007 07:29 PM
      This afternoon I was able to do some work that didn't involve sanding for a change

First I changed over my starter - the Powermaster 9000 was upgraded to the 9004 model.
I just reused the starter block I had previously modified to fit.
The spec sheet for the 9004 is on page 5 of this build thread.
It was a direct swap, just a little longer.
I still badly need a new flexplate, but I can't see how I can replace it without dropping the cradle, so it's still postponed till after paint.

Alright, I went back yesterday and picked up the rear bumper cover off the 85 GT.
I also got an ashtray cover cause one of mine was broken.

Here is the new one, it was in good shape but had been repainted:




This is the bodywork I needed for the windshield frame - tomorrow's project:




Chapter 11, section 15 in the Haynes Manual has a good description of how to remove the bumper cover.
Six phillips screws hold the tailights in, with these out you get access to the top clips:




I found the easiest way to remove the retaining clips was by prying the center pin up with some dull side cutters and then pulling them out.
These clips are also on the underside.
The 7mm screws from the wheelwell liner also need removal along with the marker lights using T-15 Torx to get access to the 7mm screws.
Don't forget to unhook the license plate lights before pulling the cover completely off:




Here are a couple shots with the cover removed:




The fiberglass fender flare was cut with a knife prior to removal:




I did need to transfer the license plate lens to the aero bumper:




And the reflectors - I thought about filling these in but the urethane is very flexible so I passed, but I might relocate them to be flush.
If I do that, I'll want to do the front indicator lamps too - stay tuned on that:




Here you can see a comparison of the two styles of covers - hopefully the cutouts for the tips will be right:




Test fitting the new cover - of course it's gonna require some custom fitting due to the fender flares:




Unfortunately the flares are also going to have to be shortened to end at the skirt like the front ones do:




On the other hand the exhaust tips are both in the perfect location
Drivers side:




Passenger side:




I was very happy with the results - it's an improved look and matches the rest of the skirts nicely.
It also achieved my goal of covering the exhaust.
Now was the last chance to do this mod before paint, and it was well worth the time involved in my opinion.
Best of all, it still clears the car ramps so I will have no issues getting under the car easily (something I was concerned about):




Winkie MSG #245, 07-10-2007 11:26 AM
      What did you use to paint the transmission?


Fiero2m8 MSG #246, 07-11-2007 07:56 AM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by Winkie:

What did you use to paint the transmission?


Hi Winkie - thanks for looking.
I used red engine enamel spray paint - pictures near bottom of page 1.
The transmission was degreased and primed by Mister Transmission.
Here's a shot of it in primer:




Cheers,
Fiero2m8

[This message has been edited by Fiero2m8 (edited 07-11-2007).]

Fiero2m8 MSG #247, 07-11-2007 08:46 AM
      Yesterday, I got the windshield trim modded and reinstalled.
You have to remove the fender bolts to slide the bottom corners in.
two screws in the bottom held it in position so I could mark the top edge for cutting:




The studs in the top section had to be grinded off to sit flush:




I used my grinder with a cutoff wheel to cut the curve - it did a nice job with no splitters or paint cracking:




Then I spent some time regapping the front fenders and I reinstalled the front shroud:




All the Sunbird convertible parts were reinstalled including the modified interior lamps.
The header still needs to be recovered with cloth or vinyl.
I am going to try and match the tan, if I can't it will be black.
I haven't used butyl rope on the pillars yet - gonna let Standard Auto glass do it during the windshield install:



I'm gonna make a windshield appointment soon, so I reward myself with a cruise between sandings

Fiero2m8


Fiero2m8 MSG #248, 07-11-2007 09:21 AM
      So here's my solution to redo the rear fender flares to accept the new rear bumper valance.
After looking at the front flares, they stopped at the front apron and side skirts, so I decided to cut my rear flares to match.
I also tapered them in to meet the top of the rear skirt and mechanically fastened them hold them in place so I could glass them:




I also made a decision to keep the rear side markers basically to match the front ones.
This time I built up the flare so that the marker lens with appear to blend and disappear into the flare.
The first step was to roughen up the surface with 40 Grit sandpaper.
Then I layed a few layers of fiberglass cloth.
I decided to use bondo-hair long strand fiberglass to create the desired shape and add more strength.
Here is the cured look prior to any sanding:




Next step was to add a layer of bondo-glass short strand fiberglass to finalize the shape so it is ready for body fller:




Now that I can easily visualize how the finished body will look, I didn't mind having to redo the rear flares.
The lines and overall shape are flowing nicely from front to back - not bad for a budget junkyard body kit.




I think I've got something fairly unique for around here.
Judging by the dozen passerbys that stop daily to check out the project, I'm feeling confident that's my vision is coming to life...

What do you Fierofanatics think?


85SE MSG #249, 07-11-2007 08:32 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by Fiero2m8:
What do you Fierofanatics think?


As you've noted earlier, you can't rush bodywork, but I really want to say "Hurry up and finish it already!"

I think it looks great. I love the flares, I love the fact you went with a GT bumper. I also love how you handled the transition from the doors to the decklid. One of my pet peeves with cutting the top off the Fiero notchback is the up and down and up from fender to door to decklid - particularly from door to decklid. You've handled that really well!

When I'm back to Ontario I have to make a trip to Niagara - see the falls and Fiero2M8

Andrew


Fiero2m8 MSG #250, 07-12-2007 11:32 AM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by 85SE:

I think it looks great. I love the flares, I love the fact you went with a GT bumper. I also love how you handled the transition from the doors to the decklid. One of my pet peeves with cutting the top off the Fiero notchback is the up and down and up from fender to door to decklid - particularly from door to decklid. You've handled that really well!



 
quote
Originally posted by Fiero2m8:

The goal is to blend the height transition from the door to the rear deck.
Fastbacks don't have this problem, but most guys wouldn't cut a fastback roof off anyways






Yes Andrew, I tried to make the transition as gradual as possible after seeing a few other solutions that bothered me.
I'd like to see someone make the whole door higher on a notchie roadster to flow the lines from front to rear fenders.
But the Fiero certainly has character and I'm not trying to disguise it as something else.

Be sure to let me know when you make the trip.

Latest progress was just another sanded coat of filler on everything behind the doors.







I have an appointment Monday for the new windshield to go in (weather permitting)
In the meantime, if there's any photoshoppers out there, please post a black version so I can see how the marker lights will look.
Feel free to edit 18" 5 spoke rims in there too...

Cheerio


Fiero2m8 MSG #251, 07-23-2007 11:44 PM
      New windshield was installed by Speedy Glass.
Everything around the windshield was removed and they glued the surround down for me.
I was impressed with the install and molding they used.
They installed a newer than 1986 style mirror for me too so I didn't have to find a replacement for mine that I dropped and broke.
Here is a view from back:




The top of the windshield is tinted as well similar to the original.
Here is the outside view:




Bad news from last week was finding out the Pontiac dealership that I made a deal with to paint the Fiero was sold last Thursday
However the owner bought the Saturn dealership in Niagara, so I am meeting the painter they use to paint flexible panels.
Hopefully I will be able to make a similar deal - I will keep everyone posted.

Rye



Fiero2m8 MSG #252, 07-26-2007 09:21 PM
      I brought Fiero2m8 over to the new painter to agree on pricing and what point he will take over the paint job.
Good news is the pricing will be as good or better than the dealer was.
He is also willing to finish any prep work vs. the dealer that would only mask and spray.
I saw samples of his work, the most recent was a Black flexible panel Saturn Ion that was of the quality I am looking for.
He is recommending using a black PPG urethane paint vs. the base/clear to save cost, and make future repairs easier.

For the front fenders that were currently at 120 Grit, he suggested using 240 then 3 coats of high build primer.
That should expose defects that I can use spot putty on and sand to 400 grit.

So it looks like I've got alot more sanding to do next week before he can block the rest of the car.
I was considering sanding all the skirts and giving them a coat of flexible primer as well.
Whatever I can do will save me money in prep labour, but I don't want to spend the rest of my summer sanding.
I am going to bring the car back in a few weeks for another inspection to see if it's ready for paint.

Other than that, all I've done this week is put the wiper arms back on

Ryan


Australian (istworld_@hotmail.com) MSG #253, 07-31-2007 07:38 AM
      I love how your car is turning out. I plan to also use bolt on flares. Do you think the flares you have are from a firebird or aftermarket. I will probably buy some after market ones soon i just hope they will go around the wheel well. I havent seen sunfire turbos with flare kits. How wide a wheel can you fit on the car now? Do you have coil overs will you use them? What year is car?

Fiero2m8 MSG #254, 08-01-2007 11:22 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by Australian:

I love how your car is turning out. I plan to also use bolt on flares. Do you think the flares you have are from a firebird or aftermarket. I will probably buy some after market ones soon i just hope they will go around the wheel well. I havent seen sunfire turbos with flare kits. How wide a wheel can you fit on the car now? Do you have coil overs will you use them? What year is car?


G'Day Mate (or Sheila),

"Throw another shrimp on the manifold"

1. My flares are from a U.S. spec stock 1988-1991 Pontiac Sunbird Turbo - see earlier in the thread.
If you go aftermarket, just measure your wheelwell opening first and make a template.

2. 245mm wide without rear coilovers.

3. Currently McPherson strut still in place - Yes, rear coilovers are a winter project (just let the cat out of the bag)
With the proper offset, I am planning for 275mm rubber on an 18" or 19" rim.

4. 1986 Pontiac Fiero Sport Coupe - LT1 from 1994 Chev Caprice 9C1 (police package), 4T60 Transmission from 1990 Cadillac Seville STS

Good on ya Bruce



InaneCathode (inane.cathode@gmail.com) MSG #255, 08-02-2007 02:39 AM
      Please tell me you're getting rid of those grapefruit shooters when you're done with the build :P

Brother Rat MSG #256, 08-02-2007 07:29 AM
      Wow! What an interesting thread! Excellent work and creative vision!

Can't wait to see it painted.

Kudos!

Pete


Australian (istworld_@hotmail.com) MSG #257, 08-02-2007 08:03 AM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by Fiero2m8:


G'Day Mate (or Sheila),

"Throw another shrimp on the manifold"

1. My flares are from a U.S. spec stock 1988-1991 Pontiac Sunbird Turbo - see earlier in the thread.
If you go aftermarket, just measure your wheelwell opening first and make a template.

2. 245mm wide without rear coilovers.

3. Currently McPherson strut still in place - Yes, rear coilovers are a winter project (just let the cat out of the bag)
With the proper offset, I am planning for 275mm rubber on an 18" or 19" rim.

4. 1986 Pontiac Fiero Sport Coupe - LT1 from 1994 Chev Caprice 9C1 (police package), 4T60 Transmission from 1990 Cadillac Seville STS

Good on ya Bruce



Thanks for all the info i am thinking i will do rear only for the staggered effect. I am not sure what i will need template for i guess to get holes in right spots. I dont fancy my chances of buying factory parts here in Australia i got no junkyards here with pontiacs in them. I will look at 18-19s also i just wish i put coil overs on back when i did my suspension last year. I was all for factory look then but now i have started modifying my car. My car only has 22,000 miles so was regretful of modding but after discussions of RHD devaluing anyway i decided not to hold back. For 22,000 miles was is in poor condition all round and had accident damage. I have started replacing everything new suspension drive train cvs clutch, engine mounts, new rubber everything new windows all the parts i have replaced or repaired all broken panels and like you slowly customising a body. I will keep my eyes on your car i cant wait to see it painted with coil overs and rims. I will be keen to see what your wheel choice will be.
Yes those wheels look like juicers they are so 80s but then again so is the car but after what your doing you will have changed the whole look of the car well done excellent work.


fiero88v8 (billyhopkins8@hotmail.com) MSG #258, 08-02-2007 12:20 PM
      I like the concept of the car and the innovation is superb but Im not too keen on all the amounts fiberglass and filler . What happens if you get in a fender bender?

Taijiguy (pcfixer@gmail.com) MSG #259, 08-02-2007 02:27 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by fiero88v8:

I like the concept of the car and the innovation is superb but Im not too keen on all the amounts fiberglass and filler . What happens if you get in a fender bender?


I never understood this particular "what if". What difference does it make? Custom is custom. By this logic, we should never do anything to modify the appearance of our car because of the off chance we might get into a fender bender and wouldn't be able to bolt on a regular replacement part. It makes no difference whether it's 'glass or pounded sheet metal; plain and simple: Custom Don't Come In A Box!
Look at it this way, he basically built the thing from the ground up (nice job btw) so I would suppose if he gets into a wreck he'll collect the insurance money and FIX IT, What else?


fiero88v8 (billyhopkins8@hotmail.com) MSG #260, 08-03-2007 09:30 AM
      Im not saying anything bad about the job being done. What ever a person wants is their own buisness. Personally, I just dont like alot of filler in a car. It causes cracks to develop around seams and joins. The only way to stop filler from cracking is if it is applied over a welded seam. I dont know of any ways to weld a fiero's panels unless you fuse them with a plastic weld machine or weld kit. I much rather see someone do a good job once, rather than have to repair it multiple times. Just my .02

Australian (istworld_@hotmail.com) MSG #261, 08-04-2007 05:15 AM
      A lot of misconception about the use of filler here. He has glassed it then sanded the filler is just to get a smooth surface. I dont see problems with this cracking the fibreglass will hold it in place nicely.

Australian (istworld_@hotmail.com) MSG #262, 08-10-2007 06:57 AM
      I have a question. The flared guards you have used did they fit the wheelarches perfectly? I am finding the gap between the universal flares is 28 inches but gap of wheel arch of fiero is about 30 inches. Have you covered up any of the wheel arch with the flares overlapping. Is the donor pontiac as big around the wheel arch as a fiero?

Fiero2m8 MSG #263, 08-14-2007 03:32 PM
      Thanks for all the feedback!
I hope stuff doesn't crack on me, but it's not the end of the world if it does given the budget on paint.
Either way, It will be a good learning experience for all of us backyard mechanics.
As far as the rims, they will be replaced when I burn off all the tread and/or when I have more $$$ for the project.
For now the wheelwells are full and will have to do even though 3 spoke rims are a pet peeve of mine.

Ryan

 
quote
Originally posted by Australian:

I have a question. The flared guards you have used did they fit the wheelarches perfectly? I am finding the gap between the universal flares is 28 inches but gap of wheel arch of fiero is about 30 inches. Have you covered up any of the wheel arch with the flares overlapping. Is the donor pontiac as big around the wheel arch as a fiero?


Here's a picture of the flare removed - you can see it is larger than the stock opening by approx 2" either side.
The stock bodyside molding had to be trimmed so the flare sits flush.



Fiero2m8


Fiero2m8 MSG #264, 08-24-2007 02:48 PM
      I haven't had time to work on the project lately, but I have been researching how to fix the minor front oil leak I have developed.
This link gives an excellent step by step description with pictures explaining what I am planning to do:

http://www.impalasuperstore...c.asp?TOPIC_ID=30984

So far, I've bought all the seals, o-rings and gaskets to perform the fix.
The waterpump has to come off, so I might replace the optispark while I'm in there since the GM unit has been getting oily.
I found the MSD Optispark on the Summit Racing site:

http://store.summitracing.c...700+115&autoview=sku

I also found a couple good links valuable to any LT1 engine owner that I thought I'd share:

http://www.automotiverebuilder.com/ar/ar99928.htm
http://shbox.com/1/4th_gen_tech1.html


Fiero2m8


Amida (robert.kusakabe@comcast.net) MSG #265, 09-01-2007 10:51 AM
      Very Interesting build. Congrats on getting this far. Alot of great mods.

Rob
Fiero Interior Conversions
FieroVation
Seattle, WA. USA



Fiero2m8 MSG #266, 09-14-2007 04:51 PM
      Thanks Rob, I appreciate your comments.

Here are a couple shots of the new MSD Optispark distributor
I am glad it comes with a new harness as mine was pretty rough:




You can see this is a 1994-1997 design because it is vented and has the slot for the cam pin:




This is the last piece I needed to start operation oil leak repair.
Golf tournament Saturday but hoping to do the project Sunday.

Fiero2m8


Fiero2m8 MSG #267, 09-27-2007 12:50 PM
      O.K. here it the update on the front engine oil leak repairs.
Good info here for LT1 owners:

First I removed the water pump, as I need to replace the seal behind it.
This F-body pump has been modified to fix the Fiero and has one hole plugged because I'm using iron heads:




Next, I removed Archie's harmonic dampener which I believe is neutral balanced - correct me if I'm wrong...
I had to remove it in order to get the Optispark distributor off, which is also blocking the seal!




Here you can see the distributor shaft with O-rings and the cam pin dowel guide that inserts into the slot in the Optispark.
I replaced this seal while I'm there as it's cheap insurance on a future oil leak there that could damage the Opti:




The cam driven waterpump seal is notorious for being installed incorrectly.
Mine leaked when I got the motor and the engine builder installed a new one wrong (even after taking time to polish the shaft) making things worse.
It is so easy for the inner seal to flip and point away from the motor instead of inward as you slide it on the shaft.
After wrecking a new seal myself I experimented and after a few tries, found the perfect guide tool anyone can easily find.
It's a Super Sharpie cap with the clip snapped off




As you can see here, it slides on real slick with no issues




After tapping the seal home, I installed the new MSD Optispark being sure to align the cam pin and then installed the O-ring on the splined water pump drive:




The water pump has the same spline and the same part number O-ring goes on here too.
They don't seal oil or coolant, just provide a cushion for the splined collar that joins the assembly together:




This is a shot of the new MSD and a new collar installed on the spline (end with groove in it goes towards engine):




After hooking up the coil wire, fresh air and vacuum lines to the Opti and plug wires, I was ready to remount the almost new water pump with new gaskets and RTV:




Carefully refilled the cooling system.
I don't use the bleeder I installed on the water pump to avoid getting my Opti wet.
Instead I burp the cooling system by making the rad the highest point, run the heater and use my pressure cap to release trapped air into the overflow bottle.
After 10 minutes of warm up all the air is bleed and the overflow is topped up as it cools:
BTW-the X-frame makes finding jack stand points a piece of cake



After a 30 minute test drive and cool down no oil or coolant leak anywhere - PHEW!



Tha Driver MSG #268, 09-27-2007 02:56 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by Fiero2m8:

I brought Fiero2m8 over to the new painter to agree on pricing and what point he will take over the paint job.
Good news is the pricing will be as good or better than the dealer was.
He is also willing to finish any prep work vs. the dealer that would only mask and spray.
I saw samples of his work, the most recent was a Black flexible panel Saturn Ion that was of the quality I am looking for.
He is recommending using a black PPG urethane paint vs. the base/clear to save cost, and make future repairs easier.

For the front fenders that were currently at 120 Grit, he suggested using 240 then 3 coats of high build primer.
That should expose defects that I can use spot putty on and sand to 400 grit.

So it looks like I've got alot more sanding to do next week before he can block the rest of the car.
I was considering sanding all the skirts and giving them a coat of flexible primer as well.
Whatever I can do will save me money in prep labour, but I don't want to spend the rest of my summer sanding.
I am going to bring the car back in a few weeks for another inspection to see if it's ready for paint.

Other than that, all I've done this week is put the wiper arms back on

Ryan


1) Prime everything with EPOXY before the high-build primer. The high-build will not stick as well if you don't.
2) No need to sand with anything finer than 180 when you use high-build primer.
3) After blocking using 180 wet, final sand with 320 wet, shoot another coat of epoxy for a sealer, & shoot the paint. OR: Final sand the high-build with 180 wet, shoot the epoxy & let dry, final sand *it* with 400 wet & shoot the paint. Always use a giude coat (mist) of flat black for evey sanding.
4) Base/clear will last longer & is no problem to spot in if it gets damaged.
I've been building custom cars for nearly 40 years...
HTH,
~ Paul
aka "Tha Driver"


Fiero2m8 MSG #269, 10-01-2007 09:45 AM
      Thanks Paul, + 4 u.
Nice to get tips from those experienced painting a Fiero.

I stopped by the Last Chance Car Show yesterday with my son Andrew and he really liked this Fiero trailer.
Owner wasn't around - anyone know who's it is so I can give them a thumbs up and get my ?'s answered?




Here was my favourite pic of an LT1 used in an engine swap - nice top plate, painted fuel rail covers and hidden wiring!



Fiero2m8


fieroguru MSG #270, 10-01-2007 04:25 PM
      I do not know who has the red trailer, but the one below is the one I built. PM me any questions you have and feel free to read my build thread (pics no longer work but I zipped them and can email them if you would like).


http://www.fiero.nl/forum/A...060811-2-057971.html

Also, Russ544 built one as well
http://www.fiero.nl/forum/A...060811-1-056586.html


Fiero2m8 MSG #271, 10-05-2007 07:41 PM
      I was having a hard time starting the car when it was hot and I hadn't done anything different to the car to cause that problem.
After some research on www.CamaroZ28.com and concluded that my ICM (Ignition control module) was acting up when it got hot.
However, I did a few check first before buying the part.
Since Fiero engine bays are warm, I had previously relocated it to a cooler spot.
Some posts recommend heating the old one with a hair dryer to see if it causes a no or hard start.
The Fuel pressure was good cranking hot.
I didn't think it was flooded because it wouldn't start with the pedal to the floor.
I ruled out vapour lock because the fuel lines and fuel filter hadn't move moved in 2 years.
Also, I was hoping the new Distributor might have solved it but it did it with both Optispark distributors so I could rule that out.
So I broke down and ordered a new one from GM, bolted it to my MSD coil and remounted it.
Presto, problem solved.
Nice when the first part you buy solves the problem!


On the topic of starting, I decided to try a new Optima battery in the engine bay with short thick 1 Guage cables to make life easier on my Powermaster 9004 starter.
I had previously went through two starter solenoids, so I thought moving the battery from the front might help.
Here are some pictures of it installed as a trial to see if I prefer it.
So far, it seems to work better.

Optima Red Top:




I mounted and bagged it on the left side of the engine compartment - these batteries are spill proof and can mount at any angle:




I will update everyone after some more mileage with my review of this mod:




Time to go for a cruise and enjoy the amazing weather this long weekend.
Fiero2m8


Fiero2m8 MSG #272, 10-09-2007 04:50 PM
      I picked up some new header collector gaskets and installed them:




When using aluminum "permanent" gaskets, make sure you use metal locknuts or double nut them like I did here:




Also picked up some new NGK TR6 spark plugs:




Next items to fix:

* shorter Nitrous line from bottle to solenoid
* re-jet to a 100HP shot and leaner setting once colder spark plugs installed
* ordered new flexplate that will need balancing and installation
* need to replace cracked axle boot on passenger side of trans
* speedo stopped working on the weekend

Always seems to be a WIP - good thing it's a hobby

Fiero2m8

[This message has been edited by Fiero2m8 (edited 10-09-2007).]

fieroguru MSG #273, 10-09-2007 05:01 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by Fiero2m8:

I picked up some new header collector gaskets and installed them:



I hope you have better luck with those aluminum ones than I did. Melted 2 sets with each lasting about 1000 miles. I now run Copper... But mine were on Stainless steel manifolds and hold in more heat than a traditional header, so that could have been my issue


Fiero2m8 MSG #274, 10-09-2007 10:48 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by fieroguru:


I hope you have better luck with those aluminum ones than I did. Melted 2 sets with each lasting about 1000 miles. I now run Copper... But mine were on Stainless steel manifolds and hold in more heat than a traditional header, so that could have been my issue


Can you give me more details on the copper?
Manufacturer, pics, where to buy etc.
Good reference for if/when mine melt.

Fiero2m8


fieroguru MSG #275, 10-10-2007 07:14 AM
      Here is the summit brand. They come in various sizes and there are other brands/vendors.

http://store.summitracing.c...700+115&autoview=sku


Fiero2m8 MSG #276, 10-11-2007 10:49 AM
      My new Flexplate came in yesterday for an 86 2.5L auto Fiero.
Parts Source said they were no longer available (only the V6 one was) but Canadian Tire got me a 4cyl one for $40CDN.
I brought it and the orginal LT1 Flexplate to Northtown Machine.
The plan is to have the new flexplate balanced to match the stock LT1 flexplate.
Here is the LT1 flexplate (notice the weight is in line with the guide pin hole:




The new Fiero 4cyl flexplate has no weight on it and has 6 symmetrical holes:




So the question from the machine shop was, where is my reference point on the new one (since I didn't bring Archie's adapter in)

I called Archie and he answered the phone and was very helpful - especially since I confused him by accidentally agreeing that I had a V6 plate and they are DIFFERENT.

Anyways after walking over and looking at an adapter, he confirmed that my reference point would be on the center line of any of the six holes on the new Fiero 4 cylinder flexplate.

I should have it back and balanced next week - now I'm looking for tips on the easiest way to complete the flexplate swap....




Fiero2m8 MSG #277, 11-05-2007 11:38 AM
      Not much to report as it's busy at work this time of year.
I picked up the balanced flexplate last week, here it is...




Also the speedo stopped working, so I have to investigate the wiring from the VSS.

Doing some research for winter projects in addition to the flexplate install.
I have added rear coilovers, front poly bushings, and lowering front springs to the list.
(Not to mention finishing the bodywork )

This past weekend I was visiting my brother's new place in Troy, Michigan as he transferred to GM's headquarters in Detroit.
Any Pennock's people in the area?

Ryan

[This message has been edited by Fiero2m8 (edited 11-05-2007).]

Fiero2m8 MSG #278, 11-13-2007 06:38 PM
      Starting to collect my parts for the winter Fiero2m8 projects.
Today I picked up the Prothane complete kit for the 84-87 Fiero.
It contains everything I need except the engine cradle (K-frame) mounts that I already installed last year.



Cheers,
Ryan


Fiero2m8 MSG #279, 11-15-2007 02:52 PM
      Well here's the latest on the bodywork...
I just picked up a GT aero nose to match the rear bumper cover I installed in the summer.
Good thing I hadn't finished the bodywork yet
Actually, I will have to redo the front flares, but no sense finishing the bodywork before I'm totally happy with the looks.
Here's a couple shots of the new piece:




I will show shots of it installed soon:




If only I could find a better spot for the front license plate...

Fiero2m8


Fiero2m8 MSG #280, 11-17-2007 08:34 PM
      Well, today I got the bumper pad nose exchanged for the aero nose.
I am pleased with the results - it matches the rear now.
It's not hard to swap a nose cone, just took my time and enjoyed the process.

Here are the pictures - if anyone has questions, let me know.

First all the top, side and bottom fasteners were removed and the driving lights were disconnected:




I removed the emblem (not sure if it's going on the new one yet) and I had to separate the flares from the bumper before it came off:
Yeah, there's surface rust cause this car wasn't garaged and was winter driven despite only 35K miles on it. (still not bad for over 20 years old in Canada...)




Here's the old one removed with the Daytona Turbo Z skirt still attached:




The 5mph waffle plastic was transferred into the new front end - it fit the same as the other one and I held it in place temporarily with masking tape:




Here you can see I'm gonna have to cut and reshape the flares like I did with the rear ones:




I spent the most time realigning the hood to bumper gap using the adjustment nuts on the hood hinges:




You'd probably noticed the front license plate holder is gone too - still brainstorming what to do about it:




I didn't have to touch the indicator lights, although I've been thinking I might install flush mount ones front and rear in the future:




I don't plan on reinstalling the front or rear side marker lights either, should make finishing the flares easier and better looking...although I'll probably install flush mounted aftermarket ones if the police notice they're gone:




The original owner isn't gonna recognize this car by the spring




Yeah, that's snow, our first of the season - that's why the seats covers went back on




Someone's gonna own Page 8 soon
Ryan




Australian (istworld_@hotmail.com) MSG #281, 11-19-2007 06:31 AM
      bump this thread i love your work as you see you have inspired me to make a start.

Fiero2m8 MSG #282, 11-19-2007 08:12 PM
      Today I picked up new rear struts to use for my rear coil over build.
You may remember, I originally cut stock springs and modified the spring perch to fit 245's, but of course I would like to improve handling, slightly raise the car and fit wider meats in there, so I am collecting parts to make my own.
Koni wasn't in my budget plans and I have new KYB's up front, but this time I decided to try Monroe Sensatracs as donors to modify for rear coilovers.
Before I start, I would like some assurance I bought the right ones:




...cause I know the lifetime warranty won't cover the removal of the spring perch




Next I need to find out where to get the rest of the stuff, sleeves and springs etc.
I am thinking that the heavy LT1/4T60 combo deserves a fairly heavy spring (350-400lbs) - sound right?
I also read in other threads that 12" length is the best choice, agreed?

Fiero2m8


Fiero2m8 MSG #283, 11-25-2007 12:07 PM
      Here's are my current fav rims - HP RACING EVO (Hyperblack)
Hoping I can make them fit with rear coilovers and modifying ride height and fender flares if necessary.
They come 5x100mm pattern and +38mm offset.
I would probably buy tires locally but sample package I like would be:

Rim sizes : 19 x 8.5(Front) +19x9.5(Rear)
Tire sizes :235/35/19(Front) + 275/30/19(Rear)



http://www.wheelsnext.com/d...EVO&color=HYPERBLACK

Here's the specs comparing my current rear tires vs. proposed size:

Current Tires (Front and Rear) - 245/50R16

Section Width: 9.64 in 245 mm
Rim Diameter: 16 in 406.4 mm
Rim Width Range: 7 - 8.5 in
Overall Diameter: 25.64 in 651.25 mm
Sidewall Height: 4.82 in 122.42 mm
Radius: 12.82 in 325.62 mm
Circumference: 80.55 in 2045.9 mm
Revs per Mile: 811.2

New Front Tire - 235/35R19

Section Width: 9.25 in 235 mm
Rim Diameter: 19 in 482.6 mm
Rim Width Range: 8 - 9.5 in
Overall Diameter: 25.47 in 646.93 mm
Sidewall Height: 3.23 in 82.042 mm
Radius: 12.73 in 323.34 mm
Circumference: 80.01 in 2032.2 mm
Revs per Mile: 816.6


New Rear Tire - 275/30R19

Section Width: 10.82 in 275 mm
Rim Diameter: 19 in 482.6 mm
Rim Width Range: 9.5 - 11 in
Overall Diameter: 25.49 in 647.44 mm
Sidewall Height: 3.24 in 82.296 mm
Radius: 12.74 in 323.59 mm
Circumference: 80.07 in 2033.7 mm
Revs per Mile: 816

Here's the link to the tire size calculator I used:
http://www.1010tires.com/Ti...or.asp?action=submit

Ryan


Fiero2m8 MSG #284, 12-24-2007 03:37 PM
      Merry Christmas everyone!
More updates early in the New Year...
Ryan



timwdegner MSG #285, 12-25-2007 12:03 AM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by Fiero2m8:

Merry Christmas everyone!
More updates early in the New Year...
Ryan



Looking forward to itŚjust read the whole thread. Merry Christmas to you too.


Fiero2m8 MSG #286, 01-09-2008 06:25 PM
      I was thinking of buying this rear coilover kit to install on my new Monroe struts.
Anyone bought and installed this kit?

http://www.heldmotorsports....iero/CoilOverKit.htm

Thanks
Ryan



War Hammer (oldsouthphoto@yahoo.com) MSG #287, 02-08-2008 02:21 PM
      I love this thread!

Alex4mula (torres_a@hotmail.com) MSG #288, 02-08-2008 03:16 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by Fiero2m8:

I was thinking of buying this rear coilover kit to install on my new Monroe struts.
Anyone bought and installed this kit?

http://www.heldmotorsports....iero/CoilOverKit.htm

Thanks
Ryan



I did. Worked perfect in my 88.


SpeedDemon MSG #289, 02-08-2008 03:21 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by Fiero2m8:

Here's are my current fav rims - HP RACING EVO (Hyperblack)



Those are a very nice wheel. I have a set (not on my fiero) and I think they look even better in person.

Chris


PineyCreek MSG #290, 02-08-2008 05:32 PM
      I love your project...wish I had the cash you apparently do.

Fiero2m8 MSG #291, 02-10-2008 12:01 AM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by PineyCreek:

I love your project...wish I had the cash you apparently do.


Thanks, most of the parts cost were spread out over the past four years and I didn't charge for my labour.
Any cash I apparently had, has now unfortunately slowed down the project as I am going through a separation

Thanks Alex4mula, I already made the leap and ordered them as a winter project.
My brother recently moved to Michigan, so I had the kit shipped to his place and imported it myself after a recent visit to the Detroit Auto Show.

The above posts inspired me to assemble the rear coilovers this weekend, so I will document the build as I go.

First, here is a shot of the kit:




Kit with the new struts that need to be modified:




Ryan


Fiero2m8 MSG #292, 02-10-2008 11:11 PM
      Ok, here we go.
First step was to remove the McPherson strut spring perch from the new Fiero replacement rear struts.
This was achieved by carefully grinding the weld just under the perch with a 5" angle grinder.
I notched the perch on both sides and then tapped with a 2-1/2 lb. sledge until the weld cracked allowing removal of the perch.
The two spot welds in the lower bracket were also ground off the lower section of the shock body and the bracket tapped off.
With the perch removed, it was easy to grind the rest of the weld smooth, so the threaded sleeve will be able to slide over it:




Here is a picture of it completely removed, but I quickly noticed the threaded sleeve would still not slide over the Monroe's due to the seal protector cap.
Instead of trying to grind it down to 2" diameter, I chose to remove and replace them:




This was accomplished by using a Dremmel rotary hand tool with a cut off wheel to cut the three tabs on the underside, so the rings could be removed.
Then a quick black paint job to cover up the bare metal on the strut bodies:




Now the sleeves could be installed - Held Motorsports recommends applying a thick bead of RTV silicone on the strut prior to install.
This is so the sleeves don't spin during ride height adjustments later as the RTV will cure.
The new spring seats nuts were spun all the way down - notice they come with allen head stop screws to prevent them from spinning once ride height is set:




Here are some shots of the completed assemblies ready to be bolted in.
I chose to go with 350lb springs due to the heavy drivetrain I am using (Iron block and head V8 with a 4T60 Auto transaxle).
After sliding the springs on, you drop a washer, bushing, top hat, bushing, washer and strut nut in that order:




Make sure the threads are up as they are bolted through the shock tower during installation.
HT Motorsports recommends tightening the strut nut until the bushings are compressed to 60% of their orginal height.
I haven't checked with a torque wrench yet what that number is.
Once the nuts were tightened, I raised the 12 inch springs by spinning the lower spring seat nut approx 2 inches so some preload of the spring was present.
The strut is currently fully extended, but once they are installed I will set the ride height I'm looking for (something between stock and the current lowering):




I think I've covered everything, let me know if you have any questions.
This was an easy afternoon winter project and I am hoping to report improved handling, ride height and tire clearances this spring!
The parts were complete, very high quality, so if you don't want to build your own for whatever reason, I highly recommend using this proven performance kit.
Please continue to encourage me to do these write-ups on my build thread.
I printed it for a great binder of the build history, plus it helps other members and my rating
I think they look sweet too and I can't wait to install them

Cheers



exoticse (exoticse@netzero.com) MSG #293, 02-12-2008 09:31 PM
      Trying to remember without re-reading the whole thread, but did you ever consider roll bars ?

The car looks great without, but was just curious.

The ones on the K-1 attack look great, but don't know how you could incorporate them into the fiero with the decklid grills/vents so close in proximity.





This images is larger than 153600 bytes. Click to view.

This images is larger than 153600 bytes. Click to view.

[This message has been edited by exoticse (edited 02-12-2008).]

Jake_Dragon MSG #294, 02-12-2008 09:43 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by exoticse:

Trying to remember without re-reading the whole thread, but did you ever consider roll bars ?

The car looks great without, but was just curious.

The ones on the K-1 attack look great, but don't know how you could incorporate them into the fiero with the decklid grills/vents so close in proximity.



Just cant see it.


Fiero2m8 MSG #295, 02-15-2008 04:22 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by exoticse:

Trying to remember without re-reading the whole thread, but did you ever consider roll bars ?
The car looks great without, but was just curious.
The ones on the K-1 attack look great, but don't know how you could incorporate them into the fiero with the decklid grills/vents so close in proximity.




Basically, I have considered them many times but haven't found something I think would improve the look.
Most of the looks I like would involve reversing the way the decklid opens or modifying the vent openings (like Saturn SKY etc).
The easy way would be to mount roll hoops to the new frame on the top of the firewall, but I really haven't found ones I like yet.

They could easily be bolted where you see the carpet below:





Fiero2m8


Fiero2m8 MSG #296, 02-18-2008 07:52 PM
      Happy President's Day! (or Family Day for us Canadians)
Today, I started my front suspension upgrade project by raising the front end on jack stands and doing some of the teardown.
I read Chapter 10 in the Haynes manual this morning, because I quickly realized this was one the the few parts of the car, I haven't dismantled yet!
The things I've done on the front end were replace the steering rack, stabilizer end links, shocks and remove a coil from the front springs.
This time, I want to install my total front end polyurethane bushing kit, one inch drop springs to match my rear coilovers and possibly a larger sway bar.
I was concerned that with 22 years of rust and never being touched, that I would have issues with nuts and bolts breaking or not coming apart.
However, I am pleased to report that so far, so good...
Here are some of the tear down pictures to show the inexperienced out there that are thinking of changing springs, the steps to get the front springs out:

Here is the before picture with the front wheels removed and the frame supported on jack stands:




First the sway bar end links were removed with 9/16" socket and wrench:




Next the lower shock mount 17mm nut washer and bolt was removed:




The safety pin and nut was removed so the steering end link could be removed from the knuckle:




There is a bracket holding the brake line to the upper control arm with a rivet that needs to be snapped off:




The lower ball joint nut is removed with an 18mm socket:




The upper ball joint nut is removed with a 15mm socket:




After separating the ball joint with a pickle fork, the rest of it can be removed from the upper control arm with 2 - 15mm sockets on the nut/bolt:




With the jack that was supporting the lower control arm removed, I pryed the spring and rubber retainer down the bump stop with a pry bar:




Here is the shot with the front spring completely removed:




Last picture for today is of all the old parts that have been removed:





My question before the control arms are removed and the knuckle is wired to hang out of the way with the brake line still attached...
The Haynes manual states the upper control arm bushings are not serviceable and the arms must be replaced - is this accurate?
I didn't check my Prothane kit yet but before removing the upper arms, I'd like to know what you guys have done.

Thanks
Fiero2m8


FieroJimmy MSG #297, 02-18-2008 08:36 PM
      For the upper control arm bushings, burn 'em out and install the new poly, just like the lowers.

There's a thread somewhere about the spacer washers that come with the kit being too big, if I can find it, I'll add the link to this post.


Edit:

OMG, the search actually worked on the first try and the first page!!

polyurethane thrust washer?

[This message has been edited by FieroJimmy (edited 02-18-2008).]

Fiero2m8 MSG #298, 02-27-2008 11:57 AM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by FieroJimmy:

For the upper control arm bushings, burn 'em out and install the new poly, just like the lowers.
There's a thread somewhere about the spacer washers that come with the kit being too big, if I can find it, I'll add the link to this post.

Edit:
OMG, the search actually worked on the first try and the first page!!
polyurethane thrust washer?



Thanks - I read through the thrust washer issue and there doesn't seem to be a clear answer on which is the correct install method...(force them in, cut them or omit them)

I decided to try out POR-15 for the control arms, so I got a starter kit to see how I like the stuff - here's a couple pics:





Ryan



Fiero2m8 MSG #299, 02-27-2008 03:24 PM
      I don't have any money for the project these days, so I am locally selling all my Fiero wheels and tires:

P225/60R16 Toyo 800 Ultra tires from the Grand AM GT rims (take-offs):




GT rims with P245/50ZR16 Goodyear ZR50 tires:




Sunbird aluminum rims with P185/70R14 Goodyear Eagle GA tires:




Original Steel wheels with centre caps/trim rings and P185/75R14 Goodyear Vectors:




Once I sell a couple sets of those, I can order these rims that I feel in love with at the Toronto Auto Show last week:





Tusch (john.partusch@gmail.com) MSG #300, 02-27-2008 03:31 PM
      Love the project, and I can't wait to see how those rims look.

Fiero2m8 MSG #301, 02-28-2008 11:52 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by Tusch:

Love the project, and I can't wait to see how those rims look.


Thanks - They're MSR style 093 new this year - check their site at:

http://www.msrwheels.com/au...r_wheels.cfm?id=360#

Specs are:
Size: 20 X 8.5
Pattern: 5X100mm
Offset: +40mm
Finish: Super Finish w/Black inserts and chrome lip

Haven't finalized tire sizes, but they will most likely be 30 series.
More progress on the front suspension dismantling - will post pics soon.



Fiero2m8 MSG #302, 03-01-2008 10:40 AM
      Good news, got the front control arms removed.
I ended up cutting bolts with a cut-off wheel at the front side near the head of the bolt.
Now I'll need new bolts/washers from the Fiero Store or the local Bolt and Nut Supply.

Here is what I did to make room for the cut-off wheel, so that the control and washers weren't damaged:




Upper Control Arm removed, so that I can start prepping for poly bushings:




Might get some new spring seats, but am still looking for front springs with 1 inch drop - everyone wants to sell you four:




Now I'm working on removing the Lower Control Arms, before moving the the rear suspension:




Does anyone know the size of the rear strut lower mounting nuts?
I'd like to pick up an impact socket for it rather than break stuff I already have...


wftb (danjesso@bmts.com) MSG #303, 03-01-2008 11:14 AM
      an easy way to get your old rubber bushings out is to use an old 3/16 drill bit and drill into the bushing right where it joins to the metal of the arm .then just let the drill bit walk around the bushing until it is loose enough to fall out .you might have to use a bigger ar smaller bit .a lot quicker than burning.dont foget to re use your upper control arm spacers in the same order you took them out . these are hardened and are your caster adjustment .make sure that the control arms and new poly bushings rotate together .they should rotate on the inner bushing .the bushing should never rotate on the bolt holding it .i used grease fittings and drilled rigt through the poly to the inner bushing .the threaded end of the fitting holds the poly and the hole lets the grease get to the bushing or sleeve i guess most people call it .hope this helps ,great thread ,i have followed from the beginning.

Fiero2m8 MSG #304, 03-02-2008 02:43 PM
      Thanks wftb, good tips there and glad you enjoy the thread, plus for you!

Some more progress yesterday on the front upper control arms.
I could have given them to a friend to bring to work and sandblast, but as I mentioned before I am trying POR-15 for the first time.
This is something I can do myself, and I wanted to try it out on something small.
I might eventually do the underside of the space frame if the results are good.
I am posting the pictures to show Fiero newbies and homebuilders this option.

So here we go, I started by removing loose rust and paint with a wire wheel on the cordless drill:




A file was used by hand to finish what the wire brush didn't remove:




I like the burning method of removing old bushings, it's a fun, quick and damage free method of removing them.
Within 30 seconds of burning the rubber mounts, the inner sleeve pops out on their own and a flat screwdriver takes the rubber out in one piece:




Any rubber residue is quickly removed with sandpaper:




I put the inner sleeves to be reused on a screwdriver and let the wire wheel clean them up:




Now for the 3 step POR system, first clean the metal with Marine Clean to ensure surface is free of grease:




Next the Metal Ready product is brushed on for 15 minutes, to prep areas without rust or smooth areas:




Once rinsed and dry, the POR-15 was brushed on with a sponge brush and a second coat applied while it was still tacky:




When cured, the surface is a hard glossy black chip free coating that seals out moisture preventing rust from coming through the finish:




Now they are ready for polyurethane bushings and new ball joints to be installed.

[This message has been edited by Fiero2m8 (edited 03-02-2008).]

Fiero2m8 MSG #305, 03-03-2008 10:17 PM
      I got the front lower control arms out tonight by cutting the bolts with the angle grinder.
The ball joints were removed with a small sledge and the spring tower is now ready for cleanup:




I measured the bolt with my electronic caliper and picked up the 24mm socket with 1/2" drive.
I had broke one of my two 3/8 Torque wrenchs and when I returned it to Canadian Tire they gave me the 1/2" drive one instead
Now I have one with 250in/lbs limit and the other with a 250ft/lbs limit - sweet :




The bolts came out easy and I removed the 3-13mm nuts in the shock tower and dropped the old struts out in prep for the new HT Motorsports adjustable rear coilovers:




Next, the front lower control arms with be refinished and poly bushings installed.

Fiero2m8


THE BEAST (jgomez@ircc.cc.fl.us) MSG #306, 03-03-2008 10:39 PM
      You have a new PM!

JG


Fiero2m8 MSG #307, 03-04-2008 02:44 PM
      I think I've finalized tire choice for the MSR rims - They are Falken FK452's and here are the specs:




Front Tire - 245/35R20
Rear Tire - 275/35R20

Front Section Width: 9.64 in 245 mm
Rear Section Width: 10.82 in 275 mm

Front Rim Diameter: 20 in 508 mm
Rear Rim Diameter: 20 in 508 mm

Front Rim Width Range: 8 - 9.5 in
Rear Rim Width Range: 9 - 11 in

Front Overall Diameter: 26.75 in 679.45 mm
Rear Overall Diameter: 27.57 in 700.27 mm

Front Sidewall Height: 3.37 in 85.598 mm
Rear Sidewall Height: 3.78 in 96.012 mm

Front Radius: 13.37 in 339.59 mm
Rear Radius: 13.78 in 350.01 mm

Front Circumference: 84.03 in 2134.3 mm
Rear Circumference: 86.61 in 2199.8 mm

Front Revs per Mile: 777.5
Rear Revs per Mile: 754.4

Front Actual Speed: 60 mph 100 km/h
Rear Speedometer1: 58.2 mph 97.0 km/h

Rear Speedometer Difference: - Speedometer Difference: 3.062% too slow
Rear Diameter Difference: - Diameter Difference: 2.98%

Here is a review of them - there are not many choices available in both these sizes.
http://www.onemotoring.com....t__falken_fk452.html

The Michelin Pilot PS2's have both size but are a lot pricer and the Toyo Proxes 4 are all season which are not needed for my roadster.


Fiero2m8 MSG #308, 03-08-2008 09:11 PM
      Well with the huge snowfall this weekend, it was a good day to work inside on finishing my front upper and lower control arms.
I am pleased to include new larger pictures in my thread that are still <100K in size.
Here is a scan of all the instructions and Fiero 84-87 kit lists complete with part numbers for future reference.
It explains how to properly grease everything and also how the thrust washers are to be installed on the lower control arms:




As you can see, although Prothane wants you to save all the hardware, I clearly found why my front end handled a little sloppy in the front end:




So I went to the Metal Supermarket to get a pipe I could make new inner bushings for the lower control arms.
I cut and grinded 4 of them to 60mm in length:




Here they are ready to go with the new 10.9 grade bolts and washer to replace the broken and cut original ones:




This is a great example of why my Avatar is of Homer's brain - I can be a moron sometimes
The instructions read "if the inner metal sleeve is not included in kit, then the original inner sleeve must be reused."
Somehow without checking, I forgot that the kit included new inner sleeves, so now I have an additional set




Here are the front upper contol arms completed with the ball joints and bushings installed.
I just need the new bolts to install them which I will have next week:




After the lower control arms were prepped and coated with POR-15, the new bushings, thrust washers and ball joints were installed:




Here they are ready to be bolted back on the car once I decide on a front spring solution (88's or Suspension Techniques drop springs).
See them here : http://www.jcwhitney.com/au...10000021896510194164




Also the spindles and upper spring perch will be getting the POR-15 treatment before reassembly



Fiero2m8 MSG #309, 03-19-2008 09:35 PM
      Well as I predicted even after soaking the sway bar bolts with penetrating oil, all four snapped off using a small rachet with ease
So I picked up a couple cobalt bits to drill them out but I was wondering if I could just relocate the the sway bar 1/2" forward on the frame rails given the length of the sway bar end links?

Here is the restored sway bar ready for reinstallation:




I decided to remove the front hubs and steering knuckles for a good cleaning and repainting, so brake bleeding will be required later:
The calipers cleaned up well and I'm going to try the Dupli-color paint I had laying around on them:




I also got the rest of the hardened hardware I needed for reassembly, so I should have some more progress this weekend.
Biggest hold up right now is what I am going to use for new front springs.

Ryan

[This message has been edited by Fiero2m8 (edited 03-19-2008).]

Fiero2m8 MSG #310, 03-26-2008 09:46 PM
      All the spindles and calipers have been cleaned with the wire wheel and degreased with brake cleaner and marine clean.
They are ready for paint - the spindles will be black POR-15 and the calipers will be bright red.





Fiero2m8 MSG #311, 03-30-2008 08:14 PM
      Here are a couple shots of the paintwork completed:




Both the front and rears are done, but I'll be starting with the front suspension reassembly first:




All the metal in the front wheels have been coated with POR-15:




The weather is finally starting to warm up a little - time to get things back together:




More updates soon.
Fiero2m8


Fiero2m8 MSG #312, 03-30-2008 09:17 PM
      Today I started with the driver's side reassembly.
First the Lower Control Arm was loosely bolted into place with the new hardware.
When I installed the Prothane thrust washers, it was easier to temporarily bend the brackets out a little until the bolts went through:




The newly painted coil spring (to match the KYB shock) was pushed in by hand over the lower spring perch and a floor jack compressed it nicely.
Note: I am trying a spring perch spacer to raise the ride height 1/2" to hopefully accommodate large diameter tires without rubbing the fender flare.
It should also improve ground clearance to the X-frame nuts by approximately 1 inch using this spacer and the larger radius wheel/tires:




Next the Upper Control Arm with new hardware was installed.
All the ball joints and bolts were torqued to spec as listed at the beginning of Chapter 10 in the Haynes Manual.
The Tierod joint was also reinstalled with a new poly dust boot and the KYB shock was bolted back in:




With everthing together, the brake line could be reconnected and the all the joints filled with the grease gun.
Only the sway bar link is left to connect once the stabilizer bar is re-installed:





Fiero2m8 MSG #313, 03-30-2008 09:41 PM
      Of course the passenger side went a little quicker - here's a few pictures of it.




One thing I added was fender washers on the outside of the Control Arm brackets:




Don't forget cotter pin on the steering arm balljoint for safety:




If there any questions on anything you see here, let me know:




I should have a rim to test fit this week before the tires are installed:




With success at the front, time to work on the adjustable rear coilover install soon, hopefully this week:




Cheers,
Ryan


Fiero2m8 MSG #314, 04-01-2008 02:36 PM
      After wearing out a cobalt bit quickly while trying to drill out the snapped bolts for the anti-sway bar, I noticed the prothane mounts have slots in the brackets.

So I used a second bit to easily drill all four bolts immediately behind the original ones (3/8" towards rear on frame rails).
The bolts dropped down using my finger in the frame side access hole and the bushings were greased and installed on the bar.
Once the washers and nuts were hand tightened, I slid the clamp forward to its original position on each side and then torqued to 15ft/lbs.
Then the poly end links were installed and torqued to 144in/lbs.








Glad that went easier than I had prepared myself for


DeLorean00 (twincam18@aol.com) MSG #315, 04-01-2008 07:36 PM
      Thank you for this build thread! I have found the information on the suspension to be very helpful. The pictures are great and the detailed descriptions are really fantastic!

[This message has been edited by DeLorean00 (edited 04-01-2008).]

Fiero2m8 MSG #316, 04-03-2008 04:15 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by DeLorean00:

Thank you for this build thread! I have found the information on the suspension to be very helpful. The pictures are great and the detailed descriptions are really fantastic!



Glad it helped you - I gave you a plus rating
The info and pictures are going into my binder and I hopefully the detail will inspire other DIYers to tackle their projects.

Yesterday's progress was limited to cleaning and painting all the exposed metal in the rear wheelwells in preparation for the rear coilovers to be bolted in.

First I did the inside of the shock towers:




Then the drivers side rear control arm and engine cradle:




Followed by the passenger side - I left the control arms in since the rear was already upgraded to poly bushings earlier in the thread:




My new tires are in, but I'm still waiting a few weeks on rims from the factory, so I'll be changing the flexplate next.
Fiero2m8


HC MSG #317, 04-03-2008 04:22 PM
      Badass man, one of the pimpest Fieros around here!

Fiero2m8 MSG #318, 04-06-2008 11:13 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by HC:

Badass man, one of the pimpest Fieros around here!


Thanks for the compliment HC - Pennocks has dozens of Fiero's I drool over, so I appreciate that you're a fan of my build.
My goal has been to be unique for around here in Niagara and I think I've been successful since there are so few Fiero's left.


This weekend I started the job I'd been procrastinating done for a year because it's a pain in the ass - replacing the flexplate (flywheel).
However, it has to be done for two reasons:

1) The teeth are damaged causing starting issues
2) The newly rebuilt engine isn't properly balanced

The plan was to get it done before spring and what better time than while the rear suspension was already out.
After looking clearances over, I felt I would be able to get the 2 inches necessary to exchange the flexplate with the engine in the car - saving the time of taking the engine out.

I started by supporting the engine and trans with 2 floor jacks since I didn't have the overhead "come-along" chain available:




Next, I removed all fasteners, and the transmission to engine bracket and the trans mount/bracket (both Cadillac items).




With the axles removed, I was ready to jack up the engine/trans on the driver's side so that it would clear the engine cradle:




Unfortunately, I couldn't move the trans left to the frame rail until I removed the governor assembly that was hitting the collector flange, shown here:



To be safe from damages, I unplugged the electrical connections and disconnected the knock sensor / trans cooler lines.
Next, the six bolts on the flexplate could be removed and it was lifted out the top.
With Archie's adapter bolted on, I wasn't able to tell which of the six available positions to bolt the new one on because I needed to see the crank alignment pin first:




So off it came - here is the Archie adapter removed:
Be careful because the adapter only goes on one way as the 2 holes on either side of the alignment pin hole are further apart than the rest (3 and 5 o'clock in this pic)




Luckily the rear main seal isn't leaking after the new rebuild.
This is the end of the crank and you can easily see the extra hole that used to have the pin in it at the 4 o'clock position:




I used the original LT1 flexplate to double check rather than just looking at it since you can't see well from under the car.
An alignment mark on the outside of the adapter seemed like a good idea, so I scored it with a hacksaw as a reference of where the alignment hole (and weight) needs to go:




Here a great shot of just how bad the original flexplate was...I learned through trial and error how to properly align the Chevy Hi-Torque starter!




Next I did something really dumb - a Homer Simpson moment (DOH!)
When I was reaching my hand up to start the bolts, I blindly pushed one into the centre Torque Converter hole and couldn't get it out with a wire or magnet!
Solution was JB Quik Weld on the tip of my middle finger pushing on the head of the bolt in the hole for two minutes and then it came right out
I'm sure crazy glue on a stick would work too but I used what was within arms reach...

So, after about 4 hours by myself, the new flexplate is installed and I just need an assistant to help me realign the trans back onto the adapter plate guide pins.




With the tailshaft, the trans is unbalanced and awkard to align when it's out of the car, so I'm gonna wait for help on Tuesday night - any volunteers? (just kidding)

Ryan



Fiero2m8 MSG #319, 04-11-2008 10:18 AM
      Well it took a while but I was able to get the trans back on the engine
I laid underneath with the jack holding the engine high enough so the trans cleared the engine cradle.
Next I aligned the pin on the torque converter with the hole in the flexplate and rotated the transmission until my girlfriend was able to start the trans bolts from above.
Unfortunately after it was all bolted together I noticed the torque converter mount didn't quite clear the balance weight I had welded on.
So I loosened all the trans bolts so I could slide it away to gain access to the weight but careful not to lose the alignment!
I used a cobalt drill bit to remove a very small amount of material on the weight to allow the torque converter to clear it and bolt flush with the flexplate (flywheel).
Success - just have to check starter alignment and replace the governor VSS assembly.

In the meantime, my friend Jamie suggested I try pricing the Tire Rack, so I called them and am now leaning to getting these tires, since they are an excellent value.

http://www.tirerack.com/tir...SXL&place=2&minLoad=

Yokohama S-Drive

Fronts 245/35/20
Rears 275/35/20



Fiero2m8

Now I can work on installing the new rear suspension...


Fiero2m8 MSG #320, 04-16-2008 12:19 AM
      The HT Motorsports rear coilovers are installed with the rear hubs, axles and brakes.

I started by bolting them in to the shock towers:




I painted the hardware aluminum, so here is the shot from the top:




I noticed slight contact with the decklid and decided rather than loosening the strut (Held recommends tightening until bushing is compressed to 60% original height) I used a hole saw to add clearance in the existing recessed areas of the decklid:




Next, the axles and hubs were reinstalled to the lower ball joints so they could be bolted to the struts.
The lower bolt holes in the new struts are sloted to allow for camber adjustment, so I will need a 4 wheel alignment soon.
One of the nuts didn't thread on due to my hitting the bolt to remove it, so I just dressed the end with a angle grinder - no sweat
The nuts were torqued to 140ft/llbs:




I finished up for the night by attaching the toelinks and reattaching the brake lines and emergency cables as per the Haynes Manual:




Next, I'll be painting the underside of the front suspension. bleeding the brakes and adding new grease to all suspension ball joints/tie rod ends.

Fiero2m8


Fiero2m8 MSG #321, 04-17-2008 02:52 PM
      Underside of chassis after sanding but before paint:




After with POR-15:




Final touch up coat of paint on all the calipers:




Greased all new tierods and balljoints.
I had to raise the front of the car a little more to do the lower control arms since I was using a large grease gun:




However, I have 90 degree zirc fittings on the rear so no issue there:




Unfortunately after swapping out a leaking flex brake line, I noticed the caliper threads are stripped, so I a need a solution for that before the brakes can be bled

Fiero2m8



Fiero2m8 MSG #322, 04-20-2008 10:12 PM
      Today was a very good day for Fiero2m8 and the Roadster.
Fixed the right rear caliper by drilling and tapping for a 7/16-20 x 1-1/8 Banjo bolt I bought (a "HELP" brand)
The flex hose was modded to fit the bolt and as you can see in the picture bolted right up.
Bleeding the brakes took awhile by myself, but I did have a one man bleeder kit and the order is RR, LR, RF, LF:




Next the VSS governor was reinstalled after I rebuilt it.
Alot of people have asked about this, so here again are the covers - the red electric one came on the 4T60 and I had to swap for one similar to the Fiero style:




The only difference is the height of the cap from the Fiero - I got mine at the boneyard of a late eighties midsize Buick:




Here is my new location for the Red Top Optima.
The battery tray is above the left Frame rail and it sits under the Driver's side vent.
One of the neat features is the top of the battery is bolted to the hinge box through the GM negative port.
The holes are already there from the old decklid springs, so I just used a small socket extension to tighten this solid ground.
(I am also attaching a short heavy guage top post cable as well):




Here the hold down is installed and the amp cable with its 100amp fuse is connected to the positive GM mount using a top post converter.
You will also notice the K&N Filter is relocated - It may not be as cool an area, but it will definitely be a cleaner and dryer place for it:




Here is the latest view of the engine bay from behind the car - I have another upgrade in mind that involves wiring so detailing will come later




I seem to take rims on and off so often, I use a 12V impact gun to change rims and centre caps:




Of course, the rims are still properly torqued to 100 ft/lbs before I set the car back on the tires:




Car fired right up and sounds great!
I refilled the auto trans fluid and warmed the engine to operating temp.
Tomorrow I'll be ready for the test drive and make an appt at the alignment shop.
I checked and set the front and rear suspension ride heights and they are set the same (25-1/2" from the concrete to the fender flares front and rear).
It appears that mission is accomplished of raising the ride height a half inch to gain some additional ground clearance for the X-frame.




Thanks for looking and keep an eye on my newest project in General Fiero Chat section:

http://www.fiero.nl/forum/F.../HTML/033676-55.html

Fiero2m8


Fiero2m8 MSG #323, 04-21-2008 05:34 PM
      First drive of 2008 today - one day shy of earth day
Here are some shots as in the driveway as it moved out of its winter storage garage today:









Recut the front fender flares and fastened them temporarily to their new position with a couple screws - test drive will double check then don't rub.
I need to add more trans fluid but I noticed a couple drops on my carboard overnight - time will tell if it's a leak or if I'm a sloppy filler
4 wheel Alignment is booked for Wednesday - any tips on what I should be saying for specs or should I just watch them carefully?

Cheers,
Fiero2m8


Fiero2m8 MSG #324, 04-22-2008 12:46 PM
      Last night I took the first test drive of the year to Beamsville Tim Hortons and back.
Everything operated beautifully - the new flywheel lets the Chevy Hi-Torque starter sound like it's supposed too!
The car starts immediately and sounds great with no exhaust leaks.
Watched the gas guage drop as I drove (a 1/4 tank for a half hour drive!)
Set a new $ record filling the tank - $35 Canadian (DOH!)
Tons of power and torque - all guages read normal and the speedo is working again
I'm going to take a video sound clip of the startup and engine running and will post the link on this thread.

Here's the next upgrade that I put off for a year since it's wiring
A used MSD Digitial 6 plus box with a new GM plug and play harness adapter.
It should work nicely with the Nitrous system with timing retard and rev limit functions, not to mention the greater spark output that will nicely match the MSD Optispark and coil.

Here it is - actually, they aren't that bad to wire now that I downloaded the instructions and wiring diagrams.



Fiero2m8

P.S. - Winkie - The 4" exhaust muffler tips are made by APC - I will post how they sound sound - I saw them today at Canadian Tire in the "Tuner" section

[This message has been edited by Fiero2m8 (edited 04-22-2008).]

Fiero2m8 MSG #325, 04-22-2008 09:55 PM
      Here's a first startup video I shot on the weekend:





DeLorean00 (twincam18@aol.com) MSG #326, 04-23-2008 01:01 AM
      That is one bad a$$ Fiero!! When are you going to spray some primer on that car so we can see those new body lines come to life??

Alex4mula (torres_a@hotmail.com) MSG #327, 04-23-2008 11:39 AM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by Fiero2m8:
Next the VSS governor was reinstalled after I rebuilt it.
Alot of people have asked about this, so here again are the covers - the red electric one came on the 4T60 and I had to swap for one similar to the Fiero style:




The only difference is the height of the cap from the Fiero - I got mine at the boneyard of a late eighties midsize Buick:

Fiero2m8


Question here. The silver one looks exactly like the one in the TH125. So you are saying there are some 4t60s that has that one but the cap is taller? i.e. same looking but different than the TH125? I'm just starting my 4t60 swap so would like to know. Thanks


Alex4mula (torres_a@hotmail.com) MSG #328, 04-23-2008 11:58 AM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by Fiero2m8:

Here's a first startup video I shot on the weekend:



You need to hear this with a good subwoofer (I have a 100W amped 8" ENERG unit hooked to my PC). It sounds very good!


Taijiguy (pcfixer@gmail.com) MSG #329, 04-23-2008 12:58 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by Fiero2m8:

Here's a first startup video I shot on the weekend:



Man, that gave me a chubby.


Tusch (john.partusch@gmail.com) MSG #330, 04-23-2008 01:55 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by Alex4mula:


You need to hear this with a good subwoofer (I have a 100W amped 8" ENERG unit hooked to my PC). It sounds very good!


With the sub right under my desk, I think my foot went numb, sounds great!


Fiero2m8 MSG #331, 04-24-2008 12:57 PM
      Thanks to all those that posted...

 
quote
Originally posted by DeLorean00:

That is one bad a$$ Fiero!! When are you going to spray some primer on that car so we can see those new body lines come to life??


I know!
I drove to Hamilton in it last night and got that comment about 50 times, so now that the mechanical stuff is almost done and I can drive it, I'll be working on making it appear less embarassing by making it one colour soon...

BTW I only got 225KM on my first tank of HWY miles - I think that's 12-13 MPG although I have 3.73 gearing that didn't help (that and the 50 foot burn outs )

 
quote
Originally posted by Alex4mula:


You need to hear this with a good subwoofer (I have a 100W amped 8" ENERG unit hooked to my PC). It sounds very good!


Thanks for the tip - I almost didn't post it cause it sounds like crap on my laptop.
I just tried hooking up external amped speakers and it made a big difference.
I was blaming the camera because I used my old one - I'll shoot a launch one day with the new camera and post it here.

Alexmula - yes the Fiero cap and the 440T4 look identical to the Fiero one except the height of the cap.
I got the newest 4T60 I could find (1990 so it had the pulse style cap) but the look for 85-87 years for this VSS cap.
Plus for you Alex4mula as your signature gave me the idea to change mine.

Next I'll be posting the ordeal/details of my quest for an alignment


Mister MSG #332, 04-24-2008 01:35 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by Fiero2m8: Here's a first startup video I shot on the weekend


Holly mercy... that thing sounds like a MO*&^%$#%^&@ER
That's a great sound track. I would love to see the faces of the kids in the background when they heard the thunder Ahhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh
LOL

 
quote
Originally posted by Fiero2m8: I drove to Hamilton in it last night and got that comment about 50 times, so now that the mechanical stuff is almost done and I can drive it, I'll be working on making it appear less embarassing by making it one colour soon...


Imagine that...




Fiero2m8 MSG #333, 04-24-2008 03:07 PM
      LOL - yes, even funnier is the dog's running and hiding thinking thunder or fireworks are on the way!

So I took the Fiero to Niagara Battery to use my alignment gift certificate - appointment at 8:30am.
An hour later they call to say the "car's too low to drive on".
Damn, so I called Central Motors Pontiac (who did the last one) and the Service Manager agreed to "git er done" so I drive from Niagara Falls to Fonthill.
Two hours later, I get a call, "Car's too low"!
This is after I raised the car 1/2 inch from last year - then I remember the last time it was aligned I didn't have the X-frame

So I go there and said I needed them to book me in with a competitve GM dealer who has an infloor unit for that afternoon.
They came through with an appointment at John Bear Pontiac in St. Catharines at 2pm.
Before I brought it there I trimmed the rear fender flares to make room for the camber correction.

Upon arriving I met and interviewed the two alignment Techs and decided to go with John - he was my age, liked the project and knew what a Fiero was!

15 minutes later John comes in the waiting room and says "Car too low"
I said "show me" and we solved it by lifting the front of the Fiero by a half inch to clear one of the hoists
Then I asked to stay for the duration and he said no problem.
Starting with the rear wheels and starting with camber, he removed and replaced the wheels a bunch of times until in spec.
Then John cursed having to cut the heat shrink off my KWAGNER style shortened toe links, but he was able to set this with the wheels on.
After he moved to the front, checked Caster that was still factory set, then worked on Camber by adjusting the upper bolt joint mounting nuts.
Removing a wheel a few times on each side and tweaking got it in spec, then the toe was set and the steering wheel centered.
The road test proved that the suspension upgrades were worth the effort now that the alignment was done.
I think I'm going to try removing the rear sway bar though - with the 350in/lb springs, I don't think a need it anymore (at least not one that big).
John spent 2-1/2 hours on my alignment and booked 1.5hrs (which was nice given their shop rate is $92/hr!)
I would highly recommend finding a shop that will let you hang with the Technician (not easy these days due to safety regulations)

Sorry guys, I forgot my camera to get pics of it on the rack but I do have a scan of the printout saved from the computer.
It was a Hunter DSP600 machine - if anyone is interested here is a link to details on the alignment computer.

http://www.pro-align.co.uk/...s/psdsp600series.htm

Look my car is painted




Here is the scan of the printout:



Please don't flame my settings - I love how the stance looks and now I can drive down the highway with no left or right pull, a centered wheel and no twitchiness or rear wheel steer in the corners.

I would not hesitate to bring another Fiero for an alignment here.
Fiero2m8

[This message has been edited by Fiero2m8 (edited 04-24-2008).]

Fiero2m8 MSG #334, 05-05-2008 03:24 PM
      Well, I started the Roadster that was parked on the street today after moving it this morning from the driveway.
When I shifted into reverse it made a clunk noise kinda like the sound/feeling a worn U-joint makes.
I know it shifts a little hard due to the shift kit, but something didn't seem right - when I shifted into Drive, the trans let go as if I'd snapped an axle!
Only good news is I didn't get stranded anywhere and only had to push it about 10 feet back into the driveway.
Better wait till I'm less frustrated to further investigate what is probably an internal problem

Fiero2m8



fourpoint9 (stevenmsimpson@comcast.net) MSG #335, 05-05-2008 03:41 PM
      It's hard to find a good alignment shop, one that will work on a custom car with out complaining.

Sorry to hear about the axle. (is that what it was?)

[This message has been edited by fourpoint9 (edited 05-05-2008).]

Fiero2m8 MSG #336, 05-05-2008 04:23 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by fourpoint9:
Sorry to hear about the axle. (is that what it was?)


Not sure yet - afraid to look - keep your fingers crossed for me...back to zero Fiero's I can drive today - argh!


Fiero2m8 MSG #337, 05-12-2008 12:33 PM
      Good news - I got the Roadster back on the road this weekend
Transmission is fine, I was lucky enough to find it was a driver's side axle problem.
When I raised the suspension with the adjustable coilovers, my very short axle didn't like the approach angle.
I ended up rebuilting the axle with two new axle boots (that had started to leak anyways) and lowered the rear 5 turns to match the new ride height of the front suspension.

Here are the pictures:

Axle removed without touching Camber or removing hub nut:




Picked up new axle boot kits - Inboard is 90 Seville and Outboard is 85 6000 w/light duty brakes.
I don't bother explaining what I'm doing anymore except to say, "I'm building my own custom axle"
The counter guy at Automotive Warehouse shocked me when he returned with the boot kits and said "You puttin' a Northstar in a Fiero?"
I smiled and said "LT1 with the Caddy tranny, however to answer your question, yes I have a N* Fiero too"




New boots installed, with supplied grease and banded, with ride height tweaked on both sides:




While the car was raised, I removed the rear sway bar to compare handling.
Then I gave it an oil/filter change and the K&N filter a clean/reoil:




Burnt a 1/2 tank of gas test driving it Saturday and so far no new issues or leaks.






Fiero2m8

[This message has been edited by Fiero2m8 (edited 05-12-2008).]

Fiero2m8 MSG #338, 05-20-2008 02:05 PM
      Thanks once again to Bubbajoexxx, I received his damaged chin spoiler to add to the Roadster project.
Here it is before it was removed from Shrek:




I started on the backside - after the broken pieces were in place, I used fiberglass cloth and resin to strengthen the underside without much regard to appearance:




Since the chin spoiler is made from fiberglass, I used a long strand fiberglass to easily repair and strengthen the corner with the holes in it, while the top got smooth resin:




While I had everything out already, I redid the front fender flares with short strand fiberglass to the roughened aero nose:




This long weekend was a little chilly but I've got to git er done, so sand, sand, sand:




After a couple of fiberglass coats, I finished with filler that will mostly be sanded off:




I decided to keep the marker lights for safety - they look a little strange right now, but I think once the fender is all black, it won't stand out so much:




I'm hoping to have the car in grey high build primer by the weekend, so I can finally see the project in one colour:




It will then match the Fiero behind it
Many have commented that my fiberglass work will crack (although it hasn't in the last two years so far).
Therefore I decided to paint the car myself (Rat rod style) and won't be disappointed if it cracks later.
This should provide a good test for forum members to observe - if it holds up, I can always get it professionally resprayed in the future...

Fiero2m8


Fiero2m8 MSG #339, 05-20-2008 09:01 PM
      Well I found a way to add yet another colour to my bodywork






After I washed it






I think I'm going to like it on there once it's painted.
It fit perfectly BTW - How does it look to you?
I "might" move the license plate to the holes on the driver's side chin spoiler or relocate somewhere else....hmmm


Fiero2m8


SAFASTRO MSG #340, 05-20-2008 11:07 PM
      I LOVE IT!
I think it looks great with the side skirts!
Great work.....I can't wait to see this thing all one color......are you gonna prime it any time soon??



Fiero2m8 MSG #341, 05-25-2008 10:42 PM
      Thanks - I was working on the bodywork today but I haven't taken pics yet.
Here are some of the other minor things I worked on this weekend.

The MSD digital window switch was blocked in by the new battery location, so I relocated it to the firewall here for access to the buttons and display:




I am redoing the trunk carpeting and have decided to conceal the nitrous bottle in the lower section.
I'll carpet the upper section with a removable false floor.
Here is everything removed except some heat insulation that has to stay so the carpet doesn't catch fire:




I got around to wiring the MSD Digital 6 plus spark box.
The dials were set up to retard the timing 6 degrees during the 150 shot of NOS and I set the soft rev limit at 6500 rpm.
It also has retard timing start and trans brake rev limiter features that I am not currently using:




I mounted the box on the passenger side firewall close to all necessary wire connections:




Archie's strut bar was bolted to the trunk from the adapter plate and it was moving the whole trunk, so underneath I go looking for a place to attach it from the engine to the cradle:




This spot worked out well - I used 10.9 grade bolt through the cradle.
I don't have to worry about snapping the bolt in the block like I did a couple previously in the cylinder head because the engine tries to pull rearward while the stut bar holds it forward with this setup:




The Nitrous feed line was reconnected, routed to the trunk and all the wiring was wrapped.
I noticed the transmission pan started leaking, so a new gasket is on the to do list.




Also, while forum member GoKart Mozart was in Niagara-on-the-Lake this weekend, he gave me a call and dropped by for a visit.
It was nice meeting you Dan and I enjoyed showing you the project.
I was also more than happy to give you your 1st ride in a V8 Fiero
We learned on that test drive (with the new chin spoiler installed), speeding on the highway causes the headlight doors to open automatically

Fiero2m8

[This message has been edited by Fiero2m8 (edited 05-25-2008).]

Gokart Mozart MSG #342, 05-26-2008 08:52 PM
      Well, slight hijack now. Made it home after a great weekend. I'll continue on the Memorial Day thread.
It was good meeting you and seeing the cars. Thanks for the ride, too. Can't wait to see what it'll do when you get the false floor done...
Wish I had more time but the wineries were calling. We made it to 3 and brought home 7 bottles...
I know it'll be hard to bring both but you know you'll have an extra driver if you need one, just hope you get the headlight door issue fixed.
I'll buy the first round at the 25th.


D2inDFW (daviddean@tx.rr.com) MSG #343, 05-26-2008 10:27 PM
      Wow!

What agreat thread documentation and results.

How did you mount the shifter and run the cables? Doesn't the shift cable come out the front of the 94 camaro shifter?

Hope you have a few pics.

Regards,

David


Fiero2m8 MSG #344, 05-26-2008 10:41 PM
      Thanks Gokart - stay in touch.

Anyone else with a chin spoiler have this issue of headlight door opening at 70-90 mph? (I've done it three times now...)

The shifter and cable are stock auto Fiero - only the knob was swapped.
Details of the cable hookup at top of page 4 - thanks for looking

Fiero2m8


Fiero2m8 MSG #345, 06-02-2008 08:23 PM
      Just a few minor things done this weekend as I was out of town.
The washer pump was finally replaced - I damaged the original one a couple winter's ago forgetting to drain summer fluid from the reservoir:




Also got a new trans pan gasket from Precision Transmission.
Glad to report the fluid after a few years was still in excellent shape:




The cork gasket was put in place after the mating surface and pan magnet were cleaned:




Pan bolts were torqued to spec and the trans refilled.
I topped it up after test driving as you have to measure the dipstick with the fluid hot:




Cheers,
Fiero2m8

[This message has been edited by Fiero2m8 (edited 06-02-2008).]

Fiero2m8 MSG #346, 06-11-2008 01:30 PM
      Well the Roadster stranded me for an hour last week and wouldn't start hot.
My guess since the engine temp wasn't overheated that the new MSD box doesn't like to get warm.
It's the only change I've made recently and the instructions suggest not to install in an enclosed area (like a glovebox)
I'm planning the relocate it to the opposite side of the firewall behind the passenger seat.
In that location, I should be able to adjust it easier and it should stay cooler.
I'll post the results either way.

Ryan


Gokart Mozart MSG #347, 06-11-2008 04:06 PM
      What about getting an alternator cooling fan from the trunk and tube and force air onto it?

Fiero2m8 MSG #348, 06-21-2008 08:59 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by Gokart Mozart:

What about getting an alternator cooling fan from the trunk and tube and force air onto it?


Good idea Dan!
I tried moving the MDS box since I didn't have a cooling fan handy (and it's just a theory at this point).
Here's the new location:




Today I installed the new trunk carpeting with the Nitrous bottle hidden below:




Hopefully primer coming soon...




Fiero2m8

[This message has been edited by Fiero2m8 (edited 06-21-2008).]

Fiero2m8 MSG #349, 06-23-2008 10:58 PM
      Brought the Roadster down to cruise night on Lundy's Lane in the falls Sunday night.
It's amazing how much attention the engine bay gets!
It certainly makes the effort of doing everything myself a rewarding worthwhile experience for me.

Well since the mechanical issues seem to be solved, back the the bodywork.
First I finally got around to finishing the shaved look, by filling the "Pontiac" in the headlight door with plastic filler:




The same procedure is being used on the rear bumper cover, but it needs a few coats to get it right:




You can see that I've started painting the silver skirts black.
My goal is to get all the ground effects completed this week even though the chin spoiler still needs a lot of finish work.
The first coat of primer on all the modified body panels is coming soon.
This will improve the appearance a little, BUT show me just how much more sanding I've got ahead of me yet...it feels like I've been sanding for years
The black satin is going to give it a Ratrod look and feel.

Fiero2m8




Fiero2m8 MSG #350, 06-28-2008 12:39 PM
      Well the no start when warm condition came back - I may have fried another ignition module.
I did get the car out to Mapleview in Burlington on Wednesday and Seaway Mall in Welland on Friday though.

The Roadster is down to two colours now with a coat of filler primer added this week:



Fiero2m8


seegeer (seegeer@yahoo.com) MSG #351, 06-28-2008 10:23 PM
      awesome build, it gives me hope that mine will be done soon, 2 points i want to ask you about. i love the flares, did you have to do any real modifications to get them to fit, and second that brace you built for underneath. do you have dimensions on that.

now back to the car. i too have taken out the body molding, and mine showed alot of stress on both sides of the door handle. i ended up drilling several holes, then filled with fiberglass filler to fix that problem. hell the panel will come off first..but since you shaved your handles you probably wont have that problem. also are you going to mold the lower portion of your front bumper together. i think it would be cool to cut the middle out, put a large billet grille in there. maybe one of those photo shop gurus can mark something up, but thats just a thought, whatever you do will look great just like the rest of your work.

great car, great work and my wife is mad at you because i was suppose to go to bed 45 minutes ago before i started to read your build..lol

[This message has been edited by seegeer (edited 06-28-2008).]

Gokart Mozart MSG #352, 06-29-2008 07:21 AM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by Fiero2m8:

The Roadster is down to two colours now with a coat of filler primer added this week:



Fiero2m8


I bet seeing it in two colors is motivating, starting to see the light at the end of the tunnel.


Fiero2m8 MSG #353, 06-30-2008 12:29 AM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by seegeer:

awesome build, it gives me hope that mine will be done soon, 2 points i want to ask you about. i love the flares, did you have to do any real modifications to get them to fit, and second that brace you built for underneath. do you have dimensions on that.

now back to the car. i too have taken out the body molding, and mine showed alot of stress on both sides of the door handle. i ended up drilling several holes, then filled with fiberglass filler to fix that problem. hell the panel will come off first..but since you shaved your handles you probably wont have that problem. also are you going to mold the lower portion of your front bumper together. i think it would be cool to cut the middle out, put a large billet grille in there. maybe one of those photo shop gurus can mark something up, but thats just a thought, whatever you do will look great just like the rest of your work.

great car, great work and my wife is mad at you because i was suppose to go to bed 45 minutes ago before i started to read your build..lol



Thanks!
The Sunbird Turbo flares are a cheap simple mod IMO.
Here's a pic - All I did was trim back the side mouldings with some snips and cut the bottom edge wherever you want them.
I just used the existing screw holes in the lip to fasten to the wheelwell liner the tension holds them tight to the fender.
I'm surprised more guys don't do this mod:




This is the only picture I kept of the x-frame (it wasn't my design)




I like your idea on the mod to cut the center out and recess a grill - plus for you!
It might give me a better spot to install the front plate as well.
As far as molding the chin spoiler to the bumper, probably not as I'll need it to be removeable for repairs.
I've already used it as a shovel bringing the Roadster to my weekly beach volleyball game (scooped up alot of gravel).
Either tire/rim swap or longer springs are in the plans so I'm not too low in the nose:




Everyone at cruise nights asks about the "softtop"
Here's my current "stow and go" model to keep the thunderstorms out:




No tools required, just roll up windows and close door on them, then tuck in at firewall
Here's a picture of the "spare" installed (yes I have two tops).
Definitely an upgraded tonneau cover is planned but the functionality of this one can't be denied - LOL

Ryan

P.S. Tell your wife I'm sorry - (I can relate staying on the forum too late)!


Fiero2m8 MSG #354, 07-03-2008 02:57 PM
      Well, I had a little ordeal this past weekend.
I decided to relocate the coil from the alternator bracket to the frame so the new ICM won't get so hot in the future.
As I'm loosening the nut from the alternator pivot stud - SNAP, it breaks off flush with the cylinder head!
Now I've got a much bigger problem and was unable to even drive the car.
After I cooling off period when I was fearing the motor needs to be dropped to fix I looked at my options...
Easy-out (never going to work as the stud has been in there since the 90's and it twisted in half before turning in the head).
So the other choice was to drill and tap a new bolt.
Hardest part was fitting a cordless drill in there, but once in I CAREFULLY drilled with a cobalt bit hoping not to drill too far.
Then tapped a M10x1.5 bolt to reattach the alternator bracket - here is how it looks now:




After all that, I was able to mount the coil and ICM here and the coil wire still reaches:




Then I trusted my handywork and drove to Sherkston Beach for the afternoon with no issues.
First time on the beach with the car and I got more gawkers than ever parked with the LT1 Camaro's from New York State.
On the cruise home I rolled over the odometer to 68,000 KM's (it's something fun to watch that is missing on new cars).
So far this season I've driven about 900km even with the price of gas @ $1.39/L
Hopefully I can get back to bodywork soon.



seegeer (seegeer@yahoo.com) MSG #355, 07-03-2008 05:33 PM
      well i caught hell again from you reading your build on our vacation....lol.. i can really relate to you when u come across set backs like that broken bolt, i recently had some trouble with my body work, as far as your car goes, have you ever considered a removable hard top, something like that off of an mr2 or miata, for the front if you cut the front out, maybe you could build an induction box in the front, its hard to describe, plus thanks for the plans on the cross brace
spence


Fiero2m8 MSG #356, 07-05-2008 09:29 PM
      Yes, I have considered a removeable hard top and may still attempt one in the future.
In the meantime I've been working on the front air dam.
I started by opening up the hole with a sawzall and trimming it up with the angle grinder:




I decided rather than just a grill across the opening, I would install side diverters to the rad.
This design might solve the headlight doors opening at speed.
I made a template with cardboard and cut them out of an aluminum grilled sheet Bubbajoe gave me.
I also tested out a location for the front plate bolted to the metal crossbar behind the bumper:




Here's a shot with the aluminum installed and more finish work and sanding on the repaired chin spoiler completed:




Now it's sprayed with a coat of filler primer.
I'm open to suggestions on the plate location (wish we didn't have to run one here) as it's currently in the windshield:



Fiero2m8


fieroguru MSG #357, 07-05-2008 09:39 PM
      Holy Radiator Openings!!!! It is HUGE and I like it!

I ran with my front plate in the windshield for years until I moved to KY - no front plate state!


Fiero2m8 MSG #358, 07-05-2008 09:50 PM
      Well I finally decided that the rear marker lights had to go.
I cut the molding at the edge of the tailights and grinded the rest of it down.
With the marker lens removed I fiberglassed the holes with cloth, then long strand filler.
After it cured, short strand fiberglass filler and finally a skim coat of body filler was sanded on both sides.
Now it's primed and ready for finish work with the rest of the quarter panels.
Here's a few pictures of the progress:







I will probably remove the front marker lights as well.
Since they are also indicator lights, I need to find some suitable replacements at the wreckers I like first:



Also I found some aftermarket Neon rims that I liked but they were already sold.
Still looking to replace the one on the car as I've currently got them advertised for sale.

Ryan


Fiero2m8 MSG #359, 07-05-2008 09:52 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by fieroguru:

Holy Radiator Openings!!!! It is HUGE and I like it!

I ran with my front plate in the windshield for years until I moved to KY - no front plate state!


Nice!
Yeah it looks Widemouth Bass or a rally car.
Hmmm - maybe room for an intercooler


seegeer (seegeer@yahoo.com) MSG #360, 07-05-2008 10:07 PM
      looking good, i definitly like that opening, i posted some markers lights im going to use in my post, you can get them from ebay for 11 bucks shipped...


doublec4 (doublec4@hotmail.com) MSG #361, 07-05-2008 10:12 PM
      Hmmm, isn't it illegal to have no side marker lights and the front plate in the wind shield?

I wish you luck driving around like that! I know some cops are pretty anal about small things


Fiero2m8 MSG #362, 07-06-2008 10:49 AM
      As for the marker lights, I'm not done yet and I can always modify things more if there is a problem.
Yes, I've already been stopped and given a bogus "improper left turn" ticket as a way for them to check everything out.
Here's a shot of the plate recess mounted - that's probably a "grey" area there but then again so is the nitrous kit.




Another option could be under the driver's indicator light like Eclipse did here:




However I do agree, I have to run a front plate - any other ideas where to locate?
BTW - I never thought this thread would get 10 pages long!
Thanks for the input everyone as most of the body mods have had forum member influence


Fiero2m8 MSG #363, 07-06-2008 05:45 PM
      Well some bad news as the car stranded me in front of the LCBO today - at least I didn't go thirsty

I obviously haven't solved the no start when hot condition.
Might be grounds or fuel vapor lock or ignition or who knows?
I do have a GM Tech 1 ODBI scanner but I don't think it's going to help with this problem.
Anyways time to research what possible solutions could be and in the meantime work on the other project.

Ryan


Mister MSG #364, 07-06-2008 09:02 PM
      Say AH!!!



My gosh that is a huge "mouth" LOL


Fiero2m8 MSG #365, 07-06-2008 10:19 PM
      So I got it home tonight with a boost once the engine had cooled.
The battery is weak, so it's going on the charger for tonight.

The engine was warm when I got home (about a 10 min drive up the highway).
I tried to start it immediately after shutting it off and it just cranked and cranked and didn't even come close to starting.
So I did a few checks:

1. Removed the breather / air filter to eliminate a clogged filter - did not start so reattached.
2. Added an engine to battery negative ground cable and tested for start - did not start.
3. Tested fuel pressure at the schrader valve - 47psi with key turned on, 45psi while cranking and 41psi after key off - all in 41-47psi spec.
4. Sprayed Quik start on K&N filter and then cranked - it started.

This makes me think it's a fuel problem and not a spark issue?

After a full battery charge tomorrow I am thinking I should change the fuel filter and test the fuel injectors for operation and leakage.
Any other suggestions?

Ryan


Fiero2m8 MSG #366, 07-06-2008 10:56 PM
      Using the search feature seems to suggest Ignition Control Module - (that I just changed).
Other suggestions were the CTS (coolant temp sensor) or ECM heat.
I can try keeping the cover off the ECM in the trunk and replace the CTS in the waterpump.
I also tried disconnecting the MSD box altogether but the car still did not start when warm.
Does anyone think the coil is the problem? (although it starts and runs fine when cold).


DeLorean00 (twincam18@aol.com) MSG #367, 07-06-2008 11:05 PM
      My DeLorean had this problem and it was a fuel accumulator, it a part right off the fuel pump. But as far as I know the Fiero has no such part. The reason for the no hot start was fuel pressure would bleed off when warm and sitting. But I do not know for sure what you cars problem is.

exoticse (exoticse@netzero.com) MSG #368, 07-07-2008 12:24 AM
      Wow looking really good so far.

Edit ** help me out, with all the different colors going on, i can't tell is that a notchback rear bumper or an aero one ??

[This message has been edited by exoticse (edited 07-07-2008).]

Fiero2m8 MSG #369, 07-07-2008 12:06 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by exoticse:

Wow looking really good so far.

Edit ** help me out, with all the different colors going on, i can't tell is that a notchback rear bumper or an aero one ??



Hi
The bumper pad rear bumper was replaced with an aero one from an 85GT.



Fiero2m8 MSG #370, 07-07-2008 12:08 PM
      Here's the scanner I'm using - I'll post any codes I get:

[This message has been edited by Fiero2m8 (edited 07-07-2008).]

Fiero2m8 MSG #371, 07-08-2008 05:50 PM
      Big plus for the ogre!
Found my problem without spending any money.
It was the ECM in my trunk getting heat stroke from engine bay heat.
Just needed to seal up and insulate the large hole and I will make a vented computer cover to replace the solid one in the trunk.
I guess it took a couple really hot days to show the problem as it hadn't been an issue in the past.
To confirm my diagnosis, I drove out to Niagara on the Lake with the computer just resting on the trunk carpeting (no cover) and the hole sealed.
It restarted everytime hot with no quick start needed.

As promised, here is the scan data after letting it idle 15-20 minutes in 90plus degree weather:

Idle - 950
CTS - 210F
INJ 1 Fault NO
INJ 2 Fault - NO
Knock - OK
IC - OK
System Volts - 13.6
Learned IAC - 33
INJ Pulse Width Bank 1 - 3.5msec
INJ Pulse Width Bank 2 - 3.5msec
Lo Res Signal - 15 msec
Hi Res signal - 1-250
Knock Retard - 0 degrees
Knock Signal - NO
Spark Advance - 20 degrees
Fuel Trim Cell - 16
Fuel Trim Enable - YES
Short Term Fuel Trim Bank 2 - 122
Short Term Fuel Trim Bank 1 - 124
Long Term Fuel Trim Bank 2 - 148
Long Term Fuel Trim Bank 1 - 152
TPS - 0.46V
Throttle Angle - 0%
MAP - 60 KPa (2.66V)
Baro - 103 KPa (4.98V)
Engine coolant temp 223 degrees
Intake Air Temp 163 degrees

The only real engine annoyance I've never been able to solve is the loping idle 800-1100 rpm.
It did it before and after the engine rebuild with cam change.
IAC was replaced but I've been told the problem is due to relatively low vacuum at idle (12-15 in Hg) so that was why I had the new chip burned.
Although did it before and after chip reprogram - the ECM seems to keep hunting as it moves the IAC in and out trying to make corrections.
If anyone can tip me in the right direction, you'd be my hero as it even has the GM mechanics stumped - I know that's not saying much

Fiero2m8


Fiero2m8 MSG #372, 07-11-2008 12:35 AM
      Picked up a Corvette master cylinder for the Roadster:






Couldn't find clear marker lens from a 2000 VW so I went with small surface mount amber lens from a Nissan 240:
Here's a similar one on a 95 Altima:




Made new holes with the drill bit and angle grinder, spliced the wire and here's the new look:



Molding will be filled and flare smoothed out and fender painted black - whatcha think?


doublec4 (doublec4@hotmail.com) MSG #373, 07-11-2008 12:48 AM
      hmmm I think the stock locations look pretty good to me to be honest, maybe a little lower than stock.. that looks a little too low in my opinion...

DeLorean00 (twincam18@aol.com) MSG #374, 07-11-2008 01:31 AM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by doublec4:

hmmm I think the stock locations look pretty good to me to be honest, maybe a little lower than stock.. that looks a little too low in my opinion...


Agreed... I little low. But just IMO



Fiero2m8 MSG #375, 07-11-2008 11:01 AM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by DeLorean00:


Agreed... I little low. But just IMO


Well I'm glad I didn't go even lower then as that was my other idea.
They are very low on the Nissans as pic above.
I wanted it near a body line, away from the curve of the fender flare, and below the original location.
Next time I might ask for opinions before cutting the holes


DeLorean00 (twincam18@aol.com) MSG #376, 07-11-2008 07:17 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by Fiero2m8:


Well I'm glad I didn't go even lower then as that was my other idea.
They are very low on the Nissans as pic above.
I wanted it near a body line, away from the curve of the fender flare, and below the original location.
Next time I might ask for opinions before cutting the holes


Its your car!! Do what you think looks the best!! After all your the only person that it really matters too.

I'm sure it look better when its all one color.



Fiero2m8 MSG #377, 07-12-2008 07:36 PM
      Thanks - back to the powertrain in the meantime.
I decided to replace the ECM with a reman unit and just transferred the custom PROM:



The lower trunk got a coat of high heat paint and the Nitrous bottle was refilled.
A new 6 foot feed line installed to replace the 20 footer since I'm not using a purge:




The carpeting was redone to surround the new stainless grill.
Once the engine was up to operating temp, the bottle pressure guage reads 1050psi.
NX recommends 1000-1050psi for best results from their jetting charts.
I am currently using the 150HP setup but am planning to change to 100HP jets so I can reduce the timing retard on the MSD box and have the juice last longer:




I also did some work under the car, changing the plugs to new colder NGK TR6's.
I ordered some copper header/collector gaskets as the old ones are starting to burn out.
A minor oil drip turned out to be coming from the oil pan filler bolt, so a new copper washer was installed.
Also added was another chassis to engine ground to serve as a backup.
Lastly, a new 15390 fan belt was installed as the old one developed a cut when I was having issues with the alternator bracket.
After a test drive, the ECM will need a little time to learn the fuel trim blocks but the idle and hot starting has improved.




Keeping an eye out for reasonably priced 16" rims to use with my set of Toyo 225/60/16 tires:




Fiero2m8 MSG #378, 07-22-2008 10:42 AM
      Just a few updates:

Brought the Roadster to the muffler shop Zoro that built the exhaust.
I kept burning exhaust gaskets out, so they welded a new collector flange on and installed some copper gaskets for me at no charge.

While under the car, I noticed the Inboard passenger axle boot developed a split and started leaking, so I picked up a new one yesterday.

I also installed the LT4 Prom in the ECM to see if I can improve the idle a little - time will tell.
It's been raining here a lot lately and I've been too busy to get more bodywork done.
If I can get the newest project street legal in time, I will be bringing it - if that falls through, the Roadster is in the on-deck circle

Ryan



fieroguru MSG #379, 07-22-2008 12:01 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by Fiero2m8:
I kept burning exhaust gaskets out, so they welded a new collector flange on and installed some copper gaskets for me at no charge.



I burned through 2 set of the blow proof aluminum ones before going to copper. It has been about a year now and the copper ones are holding just fine. I have tightened them up 2 times since they have been installed.

I am looking forward to seeing either one of your cars at the 25th!


Fiero2m8 MSG #380, 07-22-2008 10:22 PM
      Thanks Guru - sounds promising with the new locknuts I'm using.

Well I got a lot of apparel birthday gifts from the Fiero Store (hat, T-shirts, golf shirt and fleece) which is great since I didn't have any yet
The big surprise was the FIERO2M8 personalized plates - they were ordered online 5-1/2 weeks ago, so I'm hoping they arrive soon, but unfortunately probably not in time for the 25th.

Ryan


bonzo (llaaragon@cs.com) MSG #381, 07-22-2008 11:18 PM
      Havent looked at this thread in some time. I relocated my LT1 ECM behind the passenger seat. It actualy cleaned up the look a bit.



hagans19 (hagans19h@aol.com) MSG #382, 07-31-2008 09:16 PM
      any updates


Fiero2m8 MSG #383, 07-31-2008 10:46 PM
      Just got back from the 25th and am now on vacation at the cottage till August 7th.
Planning to swap the PROM chip when I get home and replace the torn axle boot.
Hopefully will be able to bring the project to the SOFA show August 9th.

Ryan


bubbajoexxx (bubbajoexx@sympatico.ca) MSG #384, 08-01-2008 10:46 AM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by Fiero2m8:

Thanks - back to the powertrain in the meantime.
I decided to replace the ECM with a reman unit and just transferred the custom PROM:



The lower trunk got a coat of high heat paint and the Nitrous bottle was refilled.
A new 6 foot feed line installed to replace the 20 footer since I'm not using a purge:




The carpeting was redone to surround the new stainless grill.
Once the engine was up to operating temp, the bottle pressure guage reads 1050psi.
NX recommends 1000-1050psi for best results from their jetting charts.
I am currently using the 150HP setup but am planning to change to 100HP jets so I can reduce the timing retard on the MSD box and have the juice last longer:




I also did some work under the car, changing the plugs to new colder NGK TR6's.
I ordered some copper header/collector gaskets as the old ones are starting to burn out.
A minor oil drip turned out to be coming from the oil pan filler bolt, so a new copper washer was installed.
Also added was another chassis to engine ground to serve as a backup.
Lastly, a new 15390 fan belt was installed as the old one developed a cut when I was having issues with the alternator bracket.
After a test drive, the ECM will need a little time to learn the fuel trim blocks but the idle and hot starting has improved.




Keeping an eye out for reasonably priced 16" rims to use with my set of Toyo 225/60/16 tires:



Ihave a spare set of 16 inch rims here at the house ff you want to see them come by


Fiero2m8 MSG #385, 08-01-2008 07:58 PM
      Thanks Joe - PM me a pic if possible - I'm interested.

hagans19 - got your PM but the reply didn't work.
I don't think I'd build another roadster, but it was a good alternative to a choptop for me and a great learning experience.
It did take quite a while to build but the reward chatting with others at local cruises has been fulfilling.
I don't have a top planned other than a tonneau cover now that I have another Fiero to drive in the rain

Ryan


DL10 (dl10@frontier.com) MSG #386, 08-01-2008 08:52 PM
      Ryan, It was nice to meet you and Erin at the 25th. I'm looking forward to seeing your roadster someday. .

[This message has been edited by DL10 (edited 08-02-2008).]

bubbajoexxx (bubbajoexx@sympatico.ca) MSG #387, 08-02-2008 06:37 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by Fiero2m8:

Thanks Joe - PM me a pic if possible - I'm interested.

hagans19 - got your PM but the reply didn't work.
I don't think I'd build another roadster, but it was a good alternative to a choptop for me and a great learning experience.
It did take quite a while to build but the reward chatting with others at local cruises has been fulfilling.
I don't have a top planned other than a tonneau cover now that I have another Fiero to drive in the rain

Ryan


I have the bareeta GT wheels and The 2002 sunfiregt wheels both are 16 inch



Fiero2m8 MSG #388, 08-03-2008 09:14 AM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by DL10:

Ryan, It was nice to meet you and Erin at the 25th. I'm looking forward to seeing your roadster someday. .



Thanks, you too Dave!
If I knew the weather was going to be so great in Michigan, I would have brought the Roadster (always next time though)
Maybe next show I'll spent more time near my own car so we can talk more - I kept wandering off taking pics of the other 250+ Fieros!
The Predator sure generated alot of questions and interest both at the show and here on the forum.

Bubbajoe - I think the Sunfire rims are 3 spoke as well but the Beretta GT rims sound interesting.
Ryan


bubbajoexxx (bubbajoexx@sympatico.ca) MSG #389, 09-04-2008 02:18 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by Fiero2m8:


Thanks, you too Dave!
If I knew the weather was going to be so great in Michigan, I would have brought the Roadster (always next time though)
Maybe next show I'll spent more time near my own car so we can talk more - I kept wandering off taking pics of the other 250+ Fieros!
The Predator sure generated alot of questions and interest both at the show and here on the forum.

Bubbajoe - I think the Sunfire rims are 3 spoke as well but the Beretta GT rims sound interesting.
Ryan


drop by and take a look


Fiero2m8 MSG #390, 10-06-2008 06:44 PM
      A few updates but I haven't done much since I bought Bubbajoe's car and I this is my busiest time of year at work.
I decided to part out some of the project to finance finishing the other car.
Saturday I sold the Grand AM GT rims I was never really fond of anyways - here they are just before I removed them to get the rubber taken off them:




The only other Fiero rims I had left were the originals off the car, so back on they go.
The picture angle doesn't show it but now I realize just how wide the fender flares are as the stock tires are so small in there:




As I was driving down my street at the speed limit I decided to see what would happen if I hit the throttle - it felt like the other tires did in the rain.
(100 feet of two skinny tire marks - luckily I was pointed straight at the time)




Next to be put up for sale will be the Nitrous kit.
I've only used 2 bottles since the rebuild, so I'm going to find an LT1 owner that is willing to swap intakes with me and buy the kit.
I really don't need it and the Roadster's frame will not object to it being sold:




After that I don't know - a local friend is a Fiero nut and is bugging me to sell him the car without engine/trans as he wants to do a Nissan V6 swap.
I've thought about selling the built LT1 or putting it in the newest project.
I've also thought about selling the rebuilt 4T60 to someone wanting to upgrade their TH125c.

Anyways, I not making any quick decisions, the car is paid for and I've got a lot of time invested in it.
Most of the money is in the drivetrain (engine $3,500, trans $2,500, nitrous direct port kit $2,500)
The problem is that I really don't like having two projects, I'd much rather focus all my effort and energy into one - maybe take the best of both and make one?

Stay tuned - time will tell...



gunslinger MSG #391, 10-06-2008 07:30 PM
      I am interested in the MSD timer how mch are you asking for it.

KurtAKX MSG #392, 10-07-2008 12:48 AM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by Fiero2m8:
Keeping an eye out for reasonably priced 16" rims to use with my set of Toyo 225/60/16 tires:



Yikes! You aren't going to be able to turn to full lock! Those are in the neighborhood of 26" tall! I have 25.5" tall on right now and they grind when at full lock under some conditions (195/65-15) That will be much more pronounced with taller wider tires!


Fiero2m8 MSG #393, 10-07-2008 09:40 AM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by gunslinger:

I am interested in the MSD timer how mch are you asking for it.


I'll probably keep included with the Nitrous Kit.
I was going to say half price of what I paid for it at the local speed shop here in Canada but for that money you can buy brand new from Summit here:

http://store.summitracing.c...il.asp?part=MSD-8969

 
quote
Originally posted by KurtAKX:
Yikes! You aren't going to be able to turn to full lock! Those are in the neighborhood of 26" tall! I have 25.5" tall on right now and they grind when at full lock under some conditions (195/65-15) That will be much more pronounced with taller wider tires!


The 245/50/16's I just took off are 25.6" tall and I never had the problem you are describing.
I've had the other tires on the car before without issue - I believe the increased height was offset by them being 2cm narrower.
Anyways, the taller sidewall will improve my ground clearance issue and if they rub, I can always swap in taller front springs I have laying around.

Ryan


Fiero2m8 MSG #394, 10-23-2008 04:45 PM
      I have been pulling my hair out trying to fix my NO START WHEN WARM condition with the LT1.
So far no help from the www.CamaroZ28.com forum
I guess it wouldn't hurt to post a copy here since this thread is in the Tech section.
Here's what I posted there...

Hi Guys,

Long time lurker, first time poster since the search feature hasn't helped.
I have a 1994 iron head LT1 in my Fiero that I built a couple years ago.
It is 60 over, with forged pistons, new accel injectors, MSD Optispark, mild Nitrous friendly cam for the NX LT1-Pro Direct Pro 100-300 Nitrous kit. The rest of the recently rebuilt engine is stock except hugger headers. The ECM has been replaced (92/93 ODBI) and is using a Street and Performance custom chip and wiring harness.

This summer after no changes to the motor in a year, I developed a hard/no start condition when the engine is up to operating temp.
I replaced the ICM and changed the NGK TR6 plugs to fresh TR55's. I thought it was grounds or charging system but none of those fixes have helped. I later discovered it is fuel related as a small spray of Quik Start on the K&N filter will cause the engine to start. Also the MSD digital - 6 box light shows spark during cranking and it starts fine when cold (using a powermaster 9004 starter and a OPTIMAX red top).

Could I possiby be getting vapour lock? The fuel pressure is good with key on and during cranking. I have tried both a stock LT1 PROM chip and the custom one and no change (the main difference is the custom chip helps the idle as I only have 12Hg/in at idle with the new cam).

The engine ran great for a couple years, so I don't know what has failed. The fuel pump is a Holley Walbro 255LPH. I have a GM Tech I scanner and no codes or unusual stuff seem to show up.

Help, as I'm running out of ideas and money and am considering parting out the powertrain. I can start it cold and drive around fine, but if I shut it off after it's warm it won't start on its own again until its cold.

Haynes manual says to check this when hard to start warm:
1. Air filter dirty - tried removing (no change)
2. Bad engine ground connection - added a second (no change)
3. Fuel not reaching the injectors - confirmed (no change)
4. Loose connection in the ignition system - tried omiting MSD box (no change)

New stuff I installed:
1. Fuel filter (no change)
2. Ignition Coil - (did run smoother on cold startup but didn't help when hot)
3. O2 sensors (no change)
4. New Battery (old one dies within 30 secs of cranking)
5. New full tank of fuel (no change)

Tests I ran:
1. Fuel Pressure (47psi when pump turned on then drops to 42 and holds)
2. Disconnected Nitrous line to ensure no fuel leakage into manifold (none)
3. Removed vacuum line from FPR to ensure no fuel leakage into manifold (none)
4. Tried retarding the timing 20 degrees during cranking under 500 rpm (no change)
5. Tried the suggestion with the key on 5 times for 5 secs each (no change)
6. Tried to start when hot with the pedal to the floor - flood clearing mode (no start)

I know that the problem is heat related but not sure it's heat internal to the engine or engine compartment heat - I did relocate the ICM and coil to a cooler spot away from the engine.

So after all that I've got nothing to show for it - same problem.
Once its up to temp, I can shut it off and immediately restart usually with success.
If it doesn't catch immediately or if I let it sit off a couple minutes, it's toast until the engine in left alone a 1/2 hour.
Spraying a little Quik Start in the intake manifold is the only chance I have to start unless you wait the 1/2 hour.
When I'm lucky and it does start, it idles and revs fine so it is only a starting issue.

I guess I'll just wait until someone posts for me to change my Optispark (for the 3rd time) or install a new CTS...

Cheers,
Ryan








doublec4 (doublec4@hotmail.com) MSG #395, 10-23-2008 05:45 PM
      Is it actually cranking or just "ticking" like Ive heard quite a few 2.8s do when hot..

Fiero2m8 MSG #396, 10-23-2008 06:10 PM
      Good question!
Actually, I've ruled out a "heat soaked" starter.

[This message has been edited by Fiero2m8 (edited 08-18-2009).]

doublec4 (doublec4@hotmail.com) MSG #397, 10-24-2008 01:50 AM
      Where did you add your second ground? Maybe get out the ohm meter and check to see if the second ground even did anything... you still may have too much resistance with ignition components or maybe fuel injectors? Maybe visually inspect all connections and pull wire loom back to inspect areas?

I just reread what you wrote.. Im not a mechanic but maybe this makes sense to you or others...

you mentioned spraying that quick start stuff in your manifold and it usually starts up... this makes me think theres a fuel problem... even though you have fuel pressure to the rail, isnt that driven by the pump itself? The injectors still need to fire for the car to start, correct? So... you claim you have spark... but if your injectors arent firing maybe due to low voltage/high resistance or something due to heat, then it wont start... but put that qwik start stuff in and you have fuel and spark and it starts like a "carbed" engine... engine starts moving, alternator starts pumping up the volts/amps whatever and you have enough power to the injectors to keep running now?

I have no idea if thats logical or makes sense to others, but just an idea...

also, does your tach move when you're cranking?

[This message has been edited by doublec4 (edited 10-24-2008).]

bubbajoexxx (bubbajoexx@sympatico.ca) MSG #398, 10-24-2008 06:14 AM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by Fiero2m8:

I have been pulling my hair out trying to fix my NO START WHEN WARM condition with the LT1.
So far no help from the www.CamaroZ28.com forum
I guess it wouldn't hurt to post a copy here since this thread is in the Tech section.
Here's what I posted there...

Hi Guys,

Long time lurker, first time poster since the search feature hasn't helped.
I have a 1994 iron head LT1 in my Fiero that I built a couple years ago.
It is 60 over, with forged pistons, new accel injectors, MSD Optispark, mild Nitrous friendly cam for the NX LT1-Pro Direct Pro 100-300 Nitrous kit. The rest of the recently rebuilt engine is stock except hugger headers. The ECM has been replaced (92/93 ODBI) and is using a Street and Performance custom chip and wiring harness.

This summer after no changes to the motor in a year, I developed a hard/no start condition when the engine is up to operating temp.
I replaced the ICM and changed the NGK TR6 plugs to fresh TR55's. I thought it was grounds or charging system but none of those fixes have helped. I later discovered it is fuel related as a small spray of Quik Start on the K&N filter will cause the engine to start. Also the MSD digital - 6 box light shows spark during cranking and it starts fine when cold (using a powermaster 9004 starter and a OPTIMAX red top).

Could I possiby be getting vapour lock? The fuel pressure is good with key on and during cranking. I have tried both a stock LT1 PROM chip and the custom one and no change (the main difference is the custom chip helps the idle as I only have 12Hg/in at idle with the new cam).

The engine ran great for a couple years, so I don't know what has failed. The fuel pump is a Holley Walbro 255LPH. I have a GM Tech I scanner and no codes or unusual stuff seem to show up.

Help, as I'm running out of ideas and money and am considering parting out the powertrain. I can start it cold and drive around fine, but if I shut it off after it's warm it won't start on its own again until its cold.

Haynes manual says to check this when hard to start warm:
1. Air filter dirty - tried removing (no change)
2. Bad engine ground connection - added a second (no change)
3. Fuel not reaching the injectors - confirmed (no change)
4. Loose connection in the ignition system - tried omiting MSD box (no change)

New stuff I installed:
1. Fuel filter (no change)
2. Ignition Coil - (did run smoother on cold startup but didn't help when hot)
3. O2 sensors (no change)
4. New Battery (old one dies within 30 secs of cranking)
5. New full tank of fuel (no change)

Tests I ran:
1. Fuel Pressure (47psi when pump turned on then drops to 42 and holds)
2. Disconnected Nitrous line to ensure no fuel leakage into manifold (none)
3. Removed vacuum line from FPR to ensure no fuel leakage into manifold (none)
4. Tried retarding the timing 20 degrees during cranking under 500 rpm (no change)
5. Tried the suggestion with the key on 5 times for 5 secs each (no change)
6. Tried to start when hot with the pedal to the floor - flood clearing mode (no start)

I know that the problem is heat related but not sure it's heat internal to the engine or engine compartment heat - I did relocate the ICM and coil to a cooler spot away from the engine.

So after all that I've got nothing to show for it - same problem.
Once its up to temp, I can shut it off and immediately restart usually with success.
If it doesn't catch immediately or if I let it sit off a couple minutes, it's toast until the engine in left alone a 1/2 hour.
Spraying a little Quik Start in the intake manifold is the only chance I have to start unless you wait the 1/2 hour.
When I'm lucky and it does start, it idles and revs fine so it is only a starting issue.

I guess I'll just wait until someone posts for me to change my Optispark (for the 3rd time) or install a new CTS...

Cheers,
Ryan







when it starts with q start after being hot you have vapor lock no ifs ands or buts when the heat gets upther in the engine bay it evaporates the fuel in the injecter lines it holds pressure but there is no liquid fuel to burn and no start as the engine cools the fuel re liquifies and it starts


Fiero2m8 MSG #399, 10-24-2008 09:21 AM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by doublec4:
Where did you add your second ground?
Also, does your tach move when you're cranking?


Grounds are Battery to frame and two Engine to frame.
The tach does move while cranking.

 
quote
Originally posted by Fiero2m8:
Could I possibly be getting vapour lock?


 
quote
Originally posted by bubbajoexxx:
when it starts with q start after being hot you have vapor lock no ifs ands or buts when the heat gets upther in the engine bay it evaporates the fuel in the injecter lines it holds pressure but there is no liquid fuel to burn and no start as the engine cools the fuel re liquifies and it starts


Well, I am leaning towards that too although it's doing it in this cool weather after running 5 minutes with the decklid open.
Other logical issue is this didn't happen for two years of driving until one day something broke and stranded me at the LCBO
The Camaro forum guys are leaning towards a cheap ICM I bought at Parts Source instead of the AC Delco one.

Here's the link to that discussion:
http://www.camaroz28.com/fo...wthread.php?t=643587



e30tech MSG #400, 10-24-2008 12:27 PM
      Beautiful job man!

HC MSG #401, 10-24-2008 03:30 PM
      The injector is leaking when you turn the car off so it floods the cylinder?

$.02


Fiero2m8 MSG #402, 10-28-2008 05:56 PM
      Update



ProjectPb (jeff@projectpb.com) MSG #403, 10-28-2008 10:15 PM
      WOW Nice Build

How is the Por15 working you. I am thinking about using it for my project when i refinish the birdcage top and bottom. but i am still looking around for other stuff to use


Fiero2m8 MSG #404, 10-29-2008 05:07 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by ProjectPb:
WOW Nice Build
How is the Por15 working you. I am thinking about using it for my project when i refinish the birdcage top and bottom. but i am still looking around for other stuff to use


Thanks, welcome to the forum...
So far the front suspension in POR15 is holding up well - it doesn't work well unless you prep well - I would use it again in the future probably on the cradle since the cheap truck bed liner spray didn't hold up as good as I had hoped.

Some good news:

"I'm not sure if I've found the root cause yet, but after installing a 875 CCA battery today and removing the 650 CCA unit, I haven't been able to get it to not start when hot. So for now the problem seems to bandaided as I was able to restart the engine a dozen times with no issues from normal temp all the way up to hot on the guage. The new battery definately cranks the Powermaster 9004 starter quicker than the Optimax Red Top did."

With that problem disappearing, I decided to clean the Beretta rims I got from Bubbajoe to install on the Roadster.
I had the Toyo tires installed on them - hmmm, since the SHREK colour doesn't match, I plan to repaint them black or graphite before installation.
Here they are cleaned up:




If anyone wants my stock rims and tires, send me a PM.
They are good for storing your Fiero on and I'm asking $50 for the set with trim rings and centre caps:




Of course I got more Fiero goodies while visiting Bubbajoe to go towards the Roadster project:

Heavy duty sway bars front and rear:




Accel Super Coil:




Blower motor to keep my engine bay cooler:




And a "Trick or Treat" box of other good stuff:




Bubba - hoping to bring the stretch up to your place Friday to go for a ride, return your noid lights, and complete the hood swap.
Just bracing the battery tray first and then I'll be good to go.
Ryan


Fiero2m8 MSG #405, 11-01-2008 04:59 PM
      This afternoon (after the Formula 1 qualifying of course) I worked on my new rims for the Roadster.

After a good cleaning, they were sanded with 80-220 grit to promote adhesion and recleaned to remove any grease:




Next I masked the tires, the aluminum rings are pretty marked up so I decided to paint everything but the rubber:




I chose Graphic Metallic as I think it will compliment a black exterior:




I think they came out pretty good for free rims - I'll mount them soon to see what they look like in the daylight on the car.

Fiero2m8


Fiero2m8 MSG #406, 11-03-2008 10:20 AM
      Sunday I swapped the rims and tires, refilled/burped the cooling system and changed a leaky I/B axle boot.

I am gaining about an inch of ride height ground clearance to the K-frame with this setup:




Northstar stretch is supervising the work...




Like many of you, I'm getting good at R/R of an axle - it's out in a matter of minutes:




New axle boot kit installed and rear suspension back together:




I should have some pics of the rims on the car by tomorrow.


Gokart Mozart MSG #407, 11-03-2008 11:26 AM
      Looking good!

Fiero2m8 MSG #408, 11-03-2008 08:23 PM
      Thanks GM!

Here he is with the new rims (without new lugs and centre caps yet).




I added 3/4" ground clearance...


but REALLY filled the wheelwells as (suggested above)




Unfortunately at full lock turning or under hard braking, (if there is such a thing with stock brakes ) the tires do rub the fender flares.
The last time I had these tires on was prior to lowering springs and they didn't rub.
So I prepped a pair of 84 Indy springs I had taken out of the Northstar Stretch.
Next, I painted them to colout match the HT Motorsports rear adjustable coilovers:




Here they are ready for the spring swap - should be a relatively quick job since the front suspension was rebuilt last winter:




The rears will be easier because I will adjust the spring seats until the car sits level:




The last time I had the rear ride height higher, I damaged an axle boot on the short drivers side:




Since I don't want to repeat that - before I proceed, I'm going to lower the transmission.
The mod will be a shorter solid trans mount to replace the taller Caddy rubber one.
Here's a pic of the mount I'm referring to:




If I can't find something suitable I'll make one, although it looks like I can't go much lower without creating a clearance issue between the axle boot and the cradle:




I've been meaning to replace the trans mount anyways because I don't like the idea of mixed mounts (the front engine mount is an Archie solid mount).



Fiero2m8 MSG #409, 11-06-2008 04:21 PM
      Ride height adjustments complete.
Front springs installed:




Didn't lower trans as upon closer inspection, it is already dropped as far as possible and new CV boots are holding up well and not leaking:




Rear coilovers were raised 10 rotations each side (approx 1 inch):



Here are a few shots of the finished ride height - there is now one finger space from the top of tire to fender flare at all four corners.
Tires are tucked inside flares enough that clearance issues are now solved:







Fiero2m8 MSG #410, 02-08-2009 04:40 PM
      Today I uncovered the Roadster and fired it up and after a warm up period went for a cruise!
I covered about 20 miles with a mixture of city/highway driving.
Yes it was only just above freezing out but very sunny.
I've never had an issue staying warm as the heater and LT1 kept me so warm I didn't need a coat.
I just wore a Michigan University hoodie but I did keep the windows up for once.

The test drive went well, as no tire clearance issue, engine ran smooth with no stalling - I think it likes the cold weather!
Then I worked on the no start when warm condition.
I was able to get the no start condition to happen idling the car for 10-15 minutes then letting it sit in its own heat for 5 minutes with the decklid closed.
With the theory of vaporizing fuel being the cause, I pulled the intake off and gave one shot of fuel in each side of the throttle body using a spray bottle.
Turning the key after that and it fired to life instantly and kept idling fine.
A repeatedly the test a few more times to make sure it wasn't a fluke and it solved the problem each time.

Next I'm going to reroute the fuel lines so they don't pass above the wrapped header (maybe through the insulated trunk instead).
Then I'm going to install this electric blower to suck the heat out of the engine compartment and exhaust out the back of the lower trunk.




My plan is to complete this Roadster project by the spring and use as my driving Fiero this year.
Then I can focus on the planned mods for the Northstar Stretch Hatchback project.
Fiero2m8



Fiero2m8 MSG #411, 02-10-2009 08:45 PM
      The fuel system was rerouted and new filter installed and although that was a good idea anyways, it didn't solve the problem.
I really should have known because the fuel lines always were fine before the engine developed this condition about 6 months ago.

The problem is still there when warm and it also stalls by itself unless kept at a high idle. (1000-1100 rpm vs. 700-800)

I hooked up fuel pressure guage and vacuum guage.
The fuel pressure is always reading 47-48 while cranking and idling.
When it won't start two squirts of fuel in the TB always works to start it.

I spent some time watching the vacuum guage while idling.
The guage moves from 12-15 Hg (just in the green section) right after you start it warm but as soon as the ECM tries to settle the idle down, the vacuum drops to 5Hg and it stalls.
When I raise the idle to 1000-1100 by adjusting the throttle plate it doesn't
stall, but when the throttle plates are closed and the engine is drops below 900 rpm it stalls everytime once the engine is at operating temp.

I might be having problems with the PROM tune or perhaps a vacuum leak?
The engine rebuilder told me that the cam he chose would affect my vacuum but I submitted a new data sheet to have a new PROM made and it worked for almost a year.
Maybe the 48mm TB is too small?

I really am stuck on the diagnosis and don't know what to check next.
Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Ryan


Fiero2m8 MSG #412, 03-04-2009 12:37 PM
      I'm hoping I've found the problem - a bad IAC.
Just ordered a new one and we'll see if that helps:


Last night I found this 1983 drawing - wow it looks like my Roadster with the moulded in flares, 16" rims, lowered and rear spoiler.
I had even thought about raising the door skins too!:




Gokart Mozart MSG #413, 03-04-2009 08:10 PM
      Where did you find that?

Fiero2m8 MSG #414, 03-04-2009 09:11 PM
      Car Craft Magazine December 1983 article is called P-Dazzled.
Duane Kuchar created 6 drawings in all and they were reprinted in the 1st Quarter 1996 Fiero Owner Mazagine.
The six themes of the artwork drawings are:
1. Widebody
2. Front engine dragster
3. Roadster (shown above)
4. Hatchback
5. Speedster
6. Targa

I can start a new thread in General of them all if you like Dan.


Gokart Mozart MSG #415, 03-04-2009 09:36 PM
      Thanks, Ryan. I'm sure others would like them, too.

aeffertz (alex@bikeguide.org) MSG #416, 03-04-2009 10:29 PM
      Awesome hour and a half read. Amazing work, man. Keep it up and keep us posted!

Fiero2m8 MSG #417, 03-07-2009 07:17 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by aeffertz:
Awesome hour and a half read. Amazing work, man. Keep it up and keep us posted!


Thanks for looking - I'm planning to work on the project tomorrow - stay tuned.


Fiero2m8 MSG #418, 03-09-2009 08:51 AM
      New IAC installed and the LT1 idles better but the no start when warm condition still occurring.
I'm going to do a data log with the scanner and fill out a new sheet to compare with the one sent to Mark at Street and Performance.
For some reason the engine doesn't get enough gas during a warm restart as two sprays in the throttle body solves the problem...

Here is the data sheet:

http://www.hotrodlane.cc/ne...93computersheet.html

I'm going to try unplugging the MAP sensor when it's warm to see if it will start.
Not sure what else to check, cause I changed O2 sensors and CTS already.
What else controls air/fuel mixture during warm start - I'm thinking EGR if stuck open?


Fiero2m8 MSG #419, 03-10-2009 01:47 PM
      Idle hunts 750-950 in park
Temp 191 degrees F
Voltage 12.5V
IAC 49 - Learned IAC 32
INJ P.W. 3.5 (both banks)
Spark advance 26 degrees
Fuel Trim 18 cell yes enable
LT Bank 2 142 - lean from 128
LT Bank 1 148 - lean from 128
TPS 0.64v @ 0% throttle (I adjusted it up from 0.35v)

Well I spoke at length with Mark today and he wants me to install new 24.9lb/hr fuel injectors.
I am also going to remove all header wrap and take digital laser temp readings of each header tube.
From there I can take more scanner readings and determine whether either of my PROM tunes will work or if a 3rd is required.
I haven't given up yet but the hard start when warm condition has been going on since last summer and I'm nearing the end of my patience


joshua riedl MSG #420, 03-10-2009 05:15 PM
      Is this a new problem? I had the same issue because I wired my ecm for switched power to the ecm constant power. It would start cold fine but I had to use the gas pedal to start it when warm.

Fiero2m8 MSG #421, 03-10-2009 06:52 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by joshua riedl:
Is this a new problem? I had the same issue because I wired my ecm for switched power to the ecm constant power. It would start cold fine but I had to use the gas pedal to start it when warm.


Thanks I'll add that to the things to double check - I did have the engine out so anything is possible.
I found a pretty good section online of a GM service manual that discusses port injection symptoms.
The hard starting and engine hunting troubleshooting should be good reference sections.

Here's the link to print Section B (Symptoms) of Driveability and Emissions - Fuel Injection (Port) 6E3-B:
http://members.shaw.ca/corv...6E3-B%20Symptoms.pdf


Fiero2m8 MSG #422, 03-16-2009 06:48 AM
      Yesterday I made a little progress.
I was able to determine that a slightly loose PROM chip was causing some starting issues affecting the fuel pump and spark intermittently.
I replaced the cork on the access cover to ensure it stays snug in place with the cover on.
Also, I went under the car and found yet another exhaust leak at the header / collector flange.
I removed all the header wrap permanently and I'm picking up some copper gaskets this week.
I've also ordered new stock 24.9lb/hr Fuel Injectors to replace the Accel 26lb/hr ones since the LT fuel trim was in the 140's for both banks (lean).
Also warm hard starts are solved by two squirts of gas in the TB - the old injectors seem to be causing the lean condition.
Apparently it's pretty common for old Accel's to cause hard starting - hopefully replacing them fixes my problem.


Fiero2m8 MSG #423, 03-29-2009 03:57 PM
      Finally, good news!

The new fuel injectors solved the hard starting problem
Yesterday I also upgraded the header/collector gaskets to the copper ones I had previously ordered.

[This message has been edited by Fiero2m8 (edited 03-29-2009).]

marlboroman (broszd@aol.com) MSG #424, 03-29-2009 09:58 PM
      Not to sound mean or anything, but you think the fiero will ever get a coat of paint on it??? Maybe that v-8 just dont like primer and its mad that it is pushing around a dull primer fiero, lol...

kyunderdawg MSG #425, 03-31-2009 10:13 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by marlboroman:

Not to sound mean or anything, but you think the fiero will ever get a coat of paint on it??? Maybe that v-8 just dont like primer and its mad that it is pushing around a dull primer fiero, lol...


Nah! No sense in spending money on the paint. Simply because this car is going ot blow that fresh coat right off the first time it goes down the road. Right, Ryan?


Fiero2m8 MSG #426, 04-02-2009 02:42 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by kyunderdawg:


Nah! No sense in spending money on the paint. Simply because this car is going ot blow that fresh coat right off the first time it goes down the road. Right, Ryan?


I know it's still an eyesore but I kept modding the body and hate sanding, so I figured get the mechanical side right first.
Unfortunately I lost my job last week, so now I have more time to work on it but no money
My goal is to have the car all black before the summer.


kyunderdawg MSG #427, 04-02-2009 05:53 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by Fiero2m8:


I know it's still an eyesore but I kept modding the body and hate sanding, so I figured get the mechanical side right first.
Unfortunately I lost my job last week, so now I have more time to work on it but no money
My goal is to have the car all black before the summer.


I hope you didn't take me wrong. I just ment that the car is going to be sooooo fast that it will peel that fresh coat of paint off. I didn't mean anything about how the car was unfinished.


Fiero2m8 MSG #428, 04-03-2009 02:22 PM
      No problem Paul, I knew what you meant.
I was trying to give marlboroman an update.
Cheers,
Ryan


kyunderdawg MSG #429, 04-03-2009 09:52 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by Fiero2m8:

No problem Paul, I knew what you meant.
I was trying to give marlboroman an update.
Cheers,
Ryan


LOL! You had me sweatin' for a second there. I thought I PO'd a big guy from Canada. You shoulda kept those "joker" wheels and paint the car purple. J/K I can't wait to see that roadster finished.


Fiero2m8 MSG #430, 05-12-2009 10:25 PM
      My baby had to spent another winter outside and I noticed a few minor fiberglass cracks, so I took some time redoing and improving the problem areas...









Fiero2m8 MSG #431, 05-18-2009 09:06 PM
      Got some more work done on the front fenders today and are in primer now:







Fiero2m8 MSG #432, 06-03-2009 12:09 PM
      Sunday I was able to get the Roadster out on a cruise through Niagara with several other southern Ontario Fiero's and had a great time.
We started in Port Dalhousie and drove to Niagara-on-the-Lake and then took the parkway through Niagara Falls and to Fort Erie.
OHNIKO even took us to an empty parking lot where I was able to get a few donuts in...
Here's a shot from the final destination at Fort Erie:




Last night a fellow Fiero enthusiast came down from Stoney Creek to see the Roadster.
He is interested in buying and completing the project since I've run out of money due to losing my job.
With all the hours I've spent and around $15K I've invested over the years, I would be sad to see it go.
But if I can find a good home for it and someone "shows me the money" I'll going to take $6K for it.
I'll keep you updated and maybe a new owner will keep the project alive on Pennocks.




Gokart Mozart MSG #433, 06-03-2009 01:28 PM
     

Fiero2m8 MSG #434, 06-07-2009 01:59 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by Gokart Mozart:



Phew Dan, he didn't have the money so I'm going to focus on selling the Red 84 2m4 instead.

Yesterday I tackled a reoccuring computer problem.
It turned out to be a loose PROM chip in the ECM.
I made up a new piece to replace the cork that keeps the chip snug when the access cover is on - all good now.




Gokart Mozart MSG #435, 06-07-2009 03:54 PM
      Phew is right! Hate to see you lose this!

Fiero2m8 MSG #436, 06-16-2009 12:17 PM
      A few more updates of the "Rat Rod" paint for this summer.







If I still have the car in the fall - I'm getting quotes from bodyshops to finish it right over the winter.
In the meantime it will be all black - finally


Titleist75 MSG #437, 06-16-2009 12:57 PM
      Hey Ryan,
I was re-reading the whole thread last night and wow, you have done a great job. You're just down the road from me, do you think one day I could check out the car. One idea I had was to convert my 86GT into a roadster and I would like to see all the work that is involved. Don't sell it!!!!! Things will pick up!!!


Fiero2m8 MSG #438, 06-16-2009 08:10 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by Titleist75:

Hey Ryan,
I was re-reading the whole thread last night and wow, you have done a great job. You're just down the road from me, do you think one day I could check out the car. One idea I had was to convert my 86GT into a roadster and I would like to see all the work that is involved. Don't sell it!!!!! Things will pick up!!!


Thanks, it was quite a bit of work and probably wouldn't do another one (although I learned so much it would take much less time the second time)...
I'm up your way on Wednesday evenings alternating between CameronMotorsports on Upper James St. near the Hamilton airport or Mapleview mall for cruise night.
Weather like today makes me want to keep it, so I am trying to sell my 3rd Fiero instead here: http://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum4/HTML/047233.html

I missed out on the SOFA Ipperwash cruise Sunday (I wasn't ready to go until noon as I was performing an alignment in the morning and later misplaced my wallet for a while!)
After I found it and calmed down, I decided to take the Roadster to Nickel Beach Port Colborne Lake Erie as a backup event.
Everyone was impressed that I was only of the only vehicles that didn't get stuck in the deep sand thanks to my off road experience when I sold Jeeps and lots of throttle
I love bringing the Roadster to the beach as I meet many former Fiero owners and get to provide the tunes (of my selection) for everyone
Although I missed the SOFA gang at least I saved gas $$$ on this trip - here are a few of the pics, enjoy





[This message has been edited by Fiero2m8 (edited 06-16-2009).]

N3M3S1S (n3m3s1s.357@gmail.com) MSG #439, 06-17-2009 01:39 AM
      Wow. Those pics in the black look GREAT. I love what you've done. I hope you get to see it entirely through. Hopefully it all works out for you.

tvelarde MSG #440, 06-23-2009 10:15 AM
      After re-reading this thread for the umpenth time, I have moved forward with my LT1/4T60 project. It will not be as cool as your roadster but all your work has motivated me to finish. I have test run the engine on it's cradle and made a few changes. I am running Holley Pro Jection rather than stock injection and have it working with nothing but a 12 volt feed. Runs and sounds great. I am still going over all your pictues and have re-printed many of them for references.

Thank you once again for taking so much time to document and point out the problems for those of us who are not quite as adept.


Fiero2m8 MSG #441, 06-23-2009 12:08 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by tvelarde:

After re-reading this thread for the umpenth time, I have moved forward with my LT1/4T60 project. It will not be as cool as your roadster but all your work has motivated me to finish. I have test run the engine on it's cradle and made a few changes. I am running Holley Pro Jection rather than stock injection and have it working with nothing but a 12 volt feed. Runs and sounds great. I am still going over all your pictues and have re-printed many of them for references.

Thank you once again for taking so much time to document and point out the problems for those of us who are not quite as adept.


No problem, the holley system sounds interesting with less headaches - good luck with your build!



Fiero2m8 MSG #442, 07-04-2009 05:40 PM
      Looking forward to the Fiero cruise tomorrow - since the weather is going to be great, the Roadster is planned to make the tour along the Grand River to Port Colborne.
Here's a couple more shots from the beach in Port Colborne this week:





See you guys Sunday at Mapleview



Fiero2m8 MSG #443, 07-29-2009 03:37 PM
      The Roadster project is posted for sale as I am still out of work.
If anyone knows someone willing to take it to a good home, send me a PM.

http://stcatharines.kijiji....r-W0QQAdIdZ134320890

Here is the appropriate thread in the Mall section:

http://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum4/HTML/048264.html

Ryan

[This message has been edited by Fiero2m8 (edited 08-15-2009).]

Fiero2m8 MSG #444, 09-08-2009 03:52 PM
      Well the Roadster was picked up today and will live on in nearby Hamilton, Ontario.
The new owner is friends with a local club member, so I hope to see the project continue to progress.

Cheers,
Fiero2m8


Tony Kania MSG #445, 09-08-2009 11:34 PM
      Congratulations on the sale. Sometimes you just gotta do, what you gotta do.

Tony


Fiero2m8 MSG #446, 10-26-2009 06:33 PM
      Thanks Tony,

I hope too see it next spring and will post some pictures if the new owner doesn't start or continue this thread.


Fiero2m8 MSG #447, 12-04-2009 03:20 AM
      Nice hearing from the "experts" on my youtube channel commenting on something I actually built...and no my N* Fiero is not any faster

Text Comments (8)

nullwii (1 year ago)
nitro in a fiero... bad´╗┐ combo

FredthePhag (1 year ago)
just another slow sbc´╗┐ fiero idling in the driveway. SLOW!

w41duvernay (1 month ago)
So, you think the LT1 engine and the 4spd
auto tranny makes this slow? Don't think´╗┐ so.

Cletusbuildsjunk (1 month ago)
v8 archie, AKA knucledragging loser, installed an lt1 with the factory 5 spd manual tranny and ran high 13's at a measly 102 mph. You think going to a slushbox automatic is going to make it faster? LOL this is probably a low 14 second car off the spray, and a´╗┐ high 12 on the kit!! What a joke!!!
There is a reason there are no track vids of this car. Just look at the qtr mile times of the sbc swaps here on youtube. they all run high 13's!!

w41duvernay (1 month ago)
I've heard of N* running 12 sec time´╗┐ in the fiero. It's not impossible

Cletusbuildsjunk (1 month ago)
A northstar motor is NOT an iron turd bucket small block chevy!! Thts why the northstar can run 12's.´╗┐

w41duvernay (1 month ago)
A small block could run the same If someone can actually figure out who to make a decent exhaust system for´╗┐ the system. No 1 seems to spend the $ & the time to make a wrap around header system.

Cletusbuildsjunk (1 month ago)
yea they could, but they don't. The iron duke could run it too but you don't see any iron dukes doing it. its a bad motor swap. The people that do them are old knuckledragging neanderthals who think a v8 with a carb means big horsepower when its the opposite because they put on a shitty exhaust, and´╗┐ don't tune the car. Dynos just cost too much money for a v8 owner after spending $9k just to get the motor in the car. 3500 crate motor, 3500 install kit, and several thousand for small stuff.



Fiero2m8 MSG #448, 01-23-2010 07:26 PM
      Last Pic I took before it went to the new owner...



Fiero2m8 MSG #449, 08-23-2010 03:39 PM
      Happy to report the Roadster is doing well with a new ECM and is currently living up the road in Hamilton area.
I have been promised first right of refusal next time it goes up for sale.

Fiero2m8


Fiero2m8 MSG #450, 03-15-2011 12:03 AM
      Bumped into an old friend here while searching the forum, like your first love



Fiero2m8 MSG #451, 05-05-2012 09:34 PM
      I heard that the roadster may be back on the market soon.
I hope it finds a new owner that will finish it to their taste and drive it...



jhobbins MSG #452, 12-24-2012 09:15 PM
      I know this thread is really old lol but how much did the lt1 swap cost and how much custom fab. work was needed? I'm considering swapping an l99 that I have laying around into my 84 fiero

Fiero2m8 MSG #453, 12-27-2012 01:51 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by jhobbins:

I know this thread is really old lol but how much did the lt1 swap cost and how much custom fab. work was needed? I'm considering swapping an l99 that I have laying around into my 84 fiero


I used a V8 Archie kit which takes away most of the fab work.
Depending how much you spend on a ECM, swap kit or parts to do it yourself (given you have a motor), I would guess you'll invest $2,500-$3,000 to have a decent V8 Fiero.



Fiero2m8 MSG #454, 02-21-2015 12:38 PM
      Happy to report that the Roadster did find a new owner and hopefully I'll see it on the road again someday.