Audi A8 My Fiero
Topic started by: engine man, Date: 06-10-2012 12:09 PM
Original thread: http://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum2/HTML/123266.html


engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #1, 06-10-2012 12:09 PM
      I have bought an 1998 Audi A8 engine and a 2001 Passat 012 transmission plus the wiring harness and ECU to put in my 1988 Fiero T Top car . The engine will be mounted Longitudinal not transverse i will not stretch the car or cut the fire wall I should be able to keep the CV joint angle at about 10 degrees since the engine is so short. If one of you could send me the wiring schematic for a 1998 audi A8 so i can figure out the harness i would appreciate that



Racing_Master MSG #2, 06-10-2012 02:07 PM
      I had the same idea... but a W8 from Volkswagen instead of the A8's V8... Good luck! I'll be watching this one!

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #3, 06-10-2012 02:24 PM
      thanks i am looking for the A8 wiring schematic

Racing_Master MSG #4, 06-10-2012 03:12 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by engine man:

thanks i am looking for the A8 wiring schematic


I USED To have alldata, but I changed jobs and we are working on getting the alldata subscription there. Once we get it, I will try and get them for ya. I hope we get it soon enough.


MstangsBware (stephen_p38@yahoo.com) MSG #5, 06-10-2012 04:27 PM
      Here we go again.......


firejo24 MSG #6, 06-10-2012 05:36 PM
      Better plan on stiffening the undercarriage as there is a lot of missing strength in the T-top cars. Adding horse power adds flex which the T-top can’t handle.

Joseph Upson (j.j.upson@worldnet.att.net) MSG #7, 06-10-2012 05:39 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by MstangsBware:

Here we go again.......


No, he bought the motor, eventhough he showed us a picture of the car instead of the motor which I'd have preferred to see.


engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #8, 06-10-2012 09:45 PM
      i will pick engine ,wiring harness , ecu & transmission up on Wednesdays when i have some free time it is all paid for they dint have it out yesterday when i went over will post pics of it all . yes I am going to stiffen the chassis

[This message has been edited by engine man (edited 06-10-2012).]

motoracer838 (jmartin@musicunveiled.com) MSG #9, 06-11-2012 01:04 PM
      Engine Man, here's a little something to help motivate you, Porsche Boxster with an Audi 4.2.

http://www.youtube.com/watc...ture=player_embedded

Joe


mikejhjr (hiersperformanceinc@comcast.net) MSG #10, 06-11-2012 01:36 PM
      I am not too up to speed on this engine/wiring. But if it's like most VW stuff aren't you going to need the dash too?

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #11, 06-11-2012 05:33 PM
      Thanks for the video i liked it ! I am not sure about the wiring i more than likely will be using the megasquirt 3 due to it is about the same money as the chip and immobilizer that 034 motor sports sells

FieroWannaBe (patond@alumni.msoe.edu) MSG #12, 06-11-2012 08:39 PM
      http://www.delcohacking.net...6ae029118ced15a8416c
OSE 12P would cost you about 50$ total to get a running motor with. I'm using this for a 4.0l Aurora motor.
I paid 20$ for a 88 trans am ECU, the stock fiero wiring works, and the system is compatible with the northstar coilpacks.


engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #13, 06-11-2012 10:09 PM
      OK so i need a 88 ecu from a trans am do i need to repin the fiero harness or does it just plug right in and the get this OSE 12P what ever it is so pleas explain for us computer ignorant folks. i am trying to figure out if it works with a 60-2 trigger wheel I sure am going to need help with this part of the build

[This message has been edited by engine man (edited 06-11-2012).]

GraterFang (anemailforcl@gmail.com) MSG #14, 06-12-2012 03:51 AM
      Darn text lingo... l couldn't help but read the thread title as "Audi ate My Fiero"

Will (william.lucke@gmail.com) MSG #15, 06-12-2012 10:02 AM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by FieroWannaBe:

http://www.delcohacking.net...6ae029118ced15a8416c
OSE 12P would cost you about 50$ total to get a running motor with. I'm using this for a 4.0l Aurora motor.
I paid 20$ for a 88 trans am ECU, the stock fiero wiring works, and the system is compatible with the northstar coilpacks.


The most important detail is what kind of triggering does the ECM require?
If it's like all the other OBDI GM ECM's, then it needs 1x per ignition event triggering... Getting that from the Audi engine will need custom work.

While it works with the Northstar coil packs, the Northstar coil packs only work with the Northstar trigger wheel (AFAIK).

 
quote
Originally posted by engine man:
i am trying to figure out if it works with a 60-2 trigger wheel I sure am going to need help with this part of the build


If the Audi has the 60-2 trigger wheel, and fixed cam timing, then you could run it with the Motronic 3.3 DME from a 1993-1995 BMW 540i... it would have to be tuned, but I believe that service is available from http://www.millerperformancecars.com/

[This message has been edited by Will (edited 06-12-2012).]

Marvin McInnis MSG #16, 06-12-2012 10:26 AM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by MstangsBware:

Here we go again.......



X2


engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #17, 06-12-2012 11:35 AM
      Thanks for the help Will i will look into the motronic from the 540

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #18, 06-12-2012 11:52 AM
      I found the computer for $100 I just will need the schematics and the right connectors and make a harness thanks again Will

FieroWannaBe (patond@alumni.msoe.edu) MSG #19, 06-12-2012 12:52 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by Will:

If the Audi has the 60-2 trigger wheel, and fixed cam timing, then you could run it with the Motronic 3.3 DME from a 1993-1995 BMW 540i... it would have to be tuned, but I believe that service is available from http://www.millerperformancecars.com/



Is that computer the 404DME? If so tunerpro has a definition available for the 540i, and looking at the chip, one can be burned easily with a EPROM burner. Ive done it successfully with a 173DME for a 89 325e/i hybrid. that would work better than attempting a mail-order tune on a irregular engine hybrid.


FieroWannaBe (patond@alumni.msoe.edu) MSG #20, 06-12-2012 12:57 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by engine man:

OK so i need a 88 ecu from a trans am do i need to repin the fiero harness or does it just plug right in and the get this OSE 12P what ever it is so pleas explain for us computer ignorant folks. i am trying to figure out if it works with a 60-2 trigger wheel I sure am going to need help with this part of the build


Any MAF 3rd gen V8 computer will work, or a 90-91 2.5L s-series truck. the fiero connectors for the ECU plug in, but wiring is different.
A nothertar style rigger wheel is needed, and people make them for sale.

Will's suggestion would work better as it's less work. And you could tune it yourself if your willing to learn how.


engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #21, 06-12-2012 02:47 PM
      i would love to learn how to tune with a computer ! I was wondering Audi uses Bosch for there ECU i wonder if they used the same one on there 93- 95 . Motronic is a Bosch ecu right ?

[This message has been edited by engine man (edited 06-12-2012).]

Will (william.lucke@gmail.com) MSG #22, 06-12-2012 04:12 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by FieroWannaBe:

Is that computer the 404DME? If so tunerpro has a definition available for the 540i, and looking at the chip, one can be burned easily with a EPROM burner. Ive done it successfully with a 173DME for a 89 325e/i hybrid. that would work better than attempting a mail-order tune on a irregular engine hybrid.


I didn't know TunerPro had the definition file for it, or even that they were branching out to the Bosch systems, but Miller Performance does essentially the same thing. Their WAR chip is an emulator that works with the OBDI BMW DME and gives the same tuning capability as a Moates Ostrich.

I recently embarked on a Ferrari project... I may have to check TunerPro for the Motronic 2.5 & 2.7 definitions from a Ferrari 348.


Will (william.lucke@gmail.com) MSG #23, 06-12-2012 04:15 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by engine man:

I found the computer for $100 I just will need the schematics and the right connectors and make a harness thanks again Will


www.car-parts.com
Look for "Wiring Harness/Misc. Electric" at the very end of the parts listing.


FieroWannaBe (patond@alumni.msoe.edu) MSG #24, 06-12-2012 04:31 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by Will:


I didn't know TunerPro had the definition file for it, or even that they were branching out to the Bosch systems, but Miller Performance does essentially the same thing. Their WAR chip is an emulator that works with the OBDI BMW DME and gives the same tuning capability as a Moates Ostrich.

I recently embarked on a Ferrari project... I may have to check TunerPro for the Motronic 2.5 & 2.7 definitions from a Ferrari 348.


The definitions for the VW VR6 on the motoronic 2.7 are available, however I see no Ferrari listed, but that doesnt mean it doesnt exist, or cant be made.



engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #25, 06-12-2012 06:32 PM
      Will i did find a harness just needed to widen the search on car parts.com . The Engine pics i promised a day early




the engine is 20 inches from front pulley to bellhousing flange but the transmission measured 6.75 to the middle of the axle

[This message has been edited by engine man (edited 06-12-2012).]

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #26, 06-12-2012 08:50 PM
      how low would you dare to run the engine's oil pan from the ground

seajai MSG #27, 06-12-2012 11:27 PM
      How tall is the engine? Seeing as how the firewall is angled and you want the least amount of angle on the CV shafts, I would think to run it as low as bottom of the cradle, lower if you make a skid shield. This would allow you to get it as far forward as possible.

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #28, 06-13-2012 06:13 AM
      the engine is 25 tall from the bottom of the oil pan to the top of the intake and it is 23 inches tall to the top of the timing belt covers . the engine bay is 24 inches from the top of the cradle to the top at the firewall and the cradle frame rail are 4 inches tall

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #29, 06-13-2012 06:28 AM
      the first thing that will hit the firewall would be the timing belt covers. my plan is to run the engine oil pan 2 inches below the frame rails and maybe put an aluminum belly pan under it

[This message has been edited by engine man (edited 06-13-2012).]

bmwguru (bmwguru@optonline.net) MSG #30, 06-13-2012 06:51 AM
      Interesting swap choice.

If I can throw my two cents in, here is the way I would run it. I would use the Audi pcm and not use the cluster from the Audi, and eliminate the auto transmission, ABS, and Immo from the pcm programming. Use the throttle pedal from the Audi and trick the pcm into believing it is still in the Audi. You would need VAG-COM to be able to run the throttle adaptations, but when something breaks in the future, diagnosis will be easy.
I'd also advise to replace the timing belt, water pump and timing components regardless of engine mileage. You will need to buy all the tools to do it. Don't mark the pulleys and try to get around that....it never works. Baum Tools in Florida sells the tools needed. The cam sprockets need to be "popped" and dialed in or the engine doesn't run correctly and can set a check engine light for incorrect camshaft timing.
Use synthetic oil and buy a good oil filter: MANN, MAHLE....not FRAM
Good luck and I'm looking forward to seeing your progress.

Dave



Will (william.lucke@gmail.com) MSG #31, 06-13-2012 07:49 AM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by engine man:

the first thing that will hit the firewall would be the timing belt covers. my plan is to run the engine oil pan 2 inches below the frame rails and maybe put an aluminum belly pan under it



I would not go that low. Keep it flush with the bottom surface of the cradle rails.


engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #32, 06-13-2012 11:04 AM
      thanks guy's, so the 98 A8 was drive by wire throttle hmm i am not a big fan of that but as long as it can be tuned to just do what my foot is telling it and not give me some crappy throttle response . after thinking about it Will you are right the gain i would get froward wouldn't be worth it being lower . again thanks for the input

[This message has been edited by engine man (edited 06-13-2012).]

Will (william.lucke@gmail.com) MSG #33, 06-13-2012 03:39 PM
      You can use this Ferrari transaxle: http://www.ebay.com/itm/190461577923

It puts the axle closer to the back of the engine than pretty much anything else (Engine bolts to the left end of the unit as it sits in the picture).



engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #34, 06-13-2012 03:47 PM
      yup just get into my wallet and pull out my spare change NP

FieroWannaBe (patond@alumni.msoe.edu) MSG #35, 06-13-2012 08:02 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by Will:

You can use this Ferrari transaxle: http://www.ebay.com/itm/190461577923

It puts the axle closer to the back of the engine than pretty much anything else (Engine bolts to the left end of the unit as it sits in the picture).



Wheres the rest of it?


Will (william.lucke@gmail.com) MSG #36, 06-14-2012 07:23 AM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by FieroWannaBe:

Wheres the rest of it?


For that particular unit, he'd have to source a clutch housing from somewhere.

The engine bolts to the left end, the clutch and clutch housing go on the right end. A clutch job should be relatively easy.


bmwguru (bmwguru@optonline.net) MSG #37, 06-14-2012 08:02 AM
      I was looking under an A8 yesterday in the shop and you may want to measure the length of the engine. If you don't modify the firewall, it will put the axles in line with the rear cradle bushings which is too far back using that transmission.

Dave


engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #38, 06-14-2012 09:23 AM
      yes it will be out of alignment but i am told as long as i am 25 degrees or less angle with stock CV joints then i am fine and i figure i will be in the 10 to 15 degree range so I am not really that concerned with it being out of line. you only have to look at some ATV 's or off road trucks to see that they run more angle then i will but thanks for the concern about it

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #39, 06-14-2012 03:33 PM
      Thought i would post a few pictures of the angle of the axle i expect to be running . the top picture shows the maximum angle the axle can go when it binds about 25 degrees the bottom picture is about the angle i expect to be running around the 15 degree mark.
the axles are within 1 inch of the correct length



fast40driver (brighteyescreations@gmail.com) MSG #40, 06-15-2012 01:07 AM
      I might have just gotten lucky, but had no problems with changing the belt on my A8 (D2 5-valve) without popping the cam sprockets. I definitely think you should change it and the waterpump, though. Seems like someone online had the tool set available for rent.

Mike


engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #41, 06-15-2012 02:01 AM
      i think i should change them to just low on funds for right now, only so much money in the budget for fun toy's

[This message has been edited by engine man (edited 06-15-2012).]

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #42, 06-15-2012 06:54 PM
      well i went out and bought some wood to build a gantry just gotta get my buddy's chain hoist then i can remove the engine

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #43, 06-17-2012 12:58 PM
      just some good reading on the cv joint angle these guy's know more than i will ever know about them
http://www.minibuggy.net/fo...ch-do-you-angle.html


engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #44, 06-17-2012 09:32 PM
      i had a chance to start building my gantry to pull the engine i will finish it up tomorrow on my day off and maybe start pulling the engine

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #45, 06-21-2012 05:44 PM
      Well i got the gantry built but am going to put a few more braces on it


ericjon262 MSG #46, 06-22-2012 12:31 AM
      I hope you put alot more bracing to it...

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #47, 06-22-2012 02:02 AM
      it will get more bracing

355Fiero MSG #48, 06-28-2012 12:45 PM
      engine man;

Any updates on this swap? I am very interested to see how it all fits into the engine bay as this will really make a difference for us replica builders.....

Thanks
Don


engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #49, 07-02-2012 06:31 PM
      Nothing going on right now just working on the house a bit and waiting to get some more funds to work on the car but i will try to get some free time this week to work on getting the engine out. Oh i almost forgot that i can get cable linkage from a 1997 Boxster the transmission is the same as what came in the 2001 Passat i got mine from they both are 012

[This message has been edited by engine man (edited 07-02-2012).]

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #50, 07-03-2012 06:21 PM
      I just want to say have a happy 4th and be safe

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #51, 07-04-2012 04:38 PM
      getting ready


engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #52, 07-05-2012 07:50 AM
      I did some more digging to try and find a ecu to run the engine that would be cheap and so far it was the ignition holding me up but i have just found that the LS3 uses a 58x wheel and the audi uses the same 58x or as some call them 60-2 so what does it all mean not sure yet but i might be able to run a GM ecu

seajai MSG #53, 07-05-2012 09:35 AM
      Have you looked at the Megasquirt system? Been poking around on their website doing some research for my swap, they are supposed to be coming out with a controller for coil on plug ignition. Otherwise their system can be run with a Ford EDIS ignition. There is a ton of info on this setup and it looks like all the ign components can be had from a pick-and-pull or junkyard.

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #54, 07-05-2012 11:39 AM
      I have but i am just trying to find the cheapest way and so far it really is the 034 motor sport chip and immobilizer for about $700, the chip is for the 4.2 V8 and standard transmission. the cheapest way i have found is to stick with the 5 speed automatic transmission with tiptronic shifting that would allow a paddle shifter but i am told the shifting is SLOW between gears.

ALJR (aljr@jgmanzi.com) MSG #55, 07-05-2012 12:26 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by engine man:

getting ready


Are those 2x4's for the legs or 4x4's?
Duno if I would trust 2x4's installed in that position; should have them twisted 90deg to get more strength...


engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #56, 07-05-2012 02:26 PM
      4x4 for the legs

fourpoint9 (stevenmsimpson@comcast.net) MSG #57, 07-05-2012 04:03 PM
      Cheering you on Go engine man go!
I've dreamed of this swap in a Fiero since seeing this Esprit get one.
http://www.motorgeek.com/viewtopic.php?t=9648

worth reading the 20 pages. He used a VEMS ECU http://www.vems.us/v3ecu

[This message has been edited by fourpoint9 (edited 07-05-2012).]

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #58, 07-05-2012 04:43 PM
      well i can tell you i have a bit of frame work to do on the passenger side since it is not rotted out hahaha not a big deal I will just get my friend who owes me for the 86 GT to weld in some new steel. I will be selling some parts i have the upper intake off it is the engraved but needs paint

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #59, 07-05-2012 08:58 PM
      OH boy look what i just found from Lingenfelter a 58x - 24x conversion module no need to change the 58X ring just buy it and have fun
http://www.lingenfelter.com...E&Category_Code=C163
i think this makes the 7165 possible

[This message has been edited by engine man (edited 07-05-2012).]

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #60, 07-08-2012 01:01 PM
      well i am still looking at the tiptronic 5 speed automatic transmission as well due to it makes things cheaper and easier . this is the gear ratio for the tiptronic out of a 1998 A8 non quatro with a 3.7 V8 Automatic
1-3.665:1
2-1.999:1
3-1.407:1
4-1.000:1
5-0.742:1
R-4.096:1
FD-3.091:1
they make chips for the transmission to speed the shifts up to 1/5 the time of what a stock transmission takes to shift


Racing_Master MSG #61, 07-08-2012 01:05 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by engine man:

well i am still looking at the tiptronic 5 speed automatic transmission as well due to it makes things cheaper and easier . this is the gear ratio for the tiptronic out of a 1998 A8 non quatro with a 3.7 V8 Automatic
1-3.665:1
2-1.999:1
3-1.407:1
4-1.000:1
5-0.742:1
R-4.096:1
FD-3.091:1
they make chips for the transmission to speed the shifts up to 1/5 the time of what a stock transmission takes to shift


Tiptronic or manually shifted torque convertered automatic? Tiptronic is a manumatic (manual internals automatically shifted with manual tap shift buttons) and has a clutch. DSG transmisions are the newest "tiptronic" transmissions, with an automatic dual clutch.

EDIT: My bad, did a little wiki search (YAY WIKI) and it does encompass manually shifted torque convertered automatics :P.

I would definately get a new chip though, cause those use a fuzzy logic on shifting, and can get annoying when using manual mode. I would get a chip that follows exactly when you shift is when it shifts.

[This message has been edited by Racing_Master (edited 07-08-2012).]

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #62, 07-08-2012 01:26 PM
      the tiptronic that i am talking about is a automatic trans with a manual shift mode I think i will like it all right as long as i put a chip in to speed up the shift and makes it full manual when in the manual mode

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #63, 07-08-2012 10:51 PM
      I have found this site http://www.levelten.com/ and they claim to be able to make a bullet prof tiptronic 5 speed i am just more interested in there tcu flash for now

[This message has been edited by engine man (edited 07-08-2012).]

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #64, 07-08-2012 11:09 PM
      Well after just getting a email from Chet W on the 7165 ecu i will be using the stock Audi A8 ecu and a tiptronic 5 speed transmission due to it would be over $800 more to go with the standard trans

[This message has been edited by engine man (edited 07-08-2012).]

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #65, 07-10-2012 11:17 AM
      thought i would put a few pics up of the engine removal . i am just getting it ready to come out right now and there will be a few nice parts for sale




engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #66, 07-10-2012 06:19 PM
      just looked up how much to re-spline my axles so i can use the fiero outer CV joint Moser engineering gets $125 per pair that seems like a really good price

Will (william.lucke@gmail.com) MSG #67, 07-11-2012 02:57 PM
      Length? Resplining the Audi axles to the Fiero spline?

[This message has been edited by Will (edited 07-11-2012).]

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #68, 07-11-2012 03:04 PM
      I cant remember off the top of my head for sure but i think it was 24 inches and the passat axles where just the right length due to the passat and fiero have close to the same track width . tomorrow i should have the engine out i have the day off i just hope the 2 back cradle bolts don't fight me . yes VW to fiero spline since the transmission stuff is from a VW passat

[This message has been edited by engine man (edited 07-11-2012).]

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #69, 07-19-2012 03:51 PM
      Have any of you used a Megasquirt ECM and what did you think of it

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #70, 07-22-2012 10:00 PM
      well the car is just hanging out waiting for me to get some more money the engine and cradle are all ready to come out but like i said i am waiting to get some money to buy the automatic so i can bolt it all up and make my mounts . at first it will just be a stock shifting tiptronic i need to talk to the transmission guy i know and ask what i should buy if it should be a chip for the transmission or the valve body that level ten has

[This message has been edited by engine man (edited 07-22-2012).]

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #71, 07-23-2012 03:11 PM
      I just sent Phonedawgz a email to see if he would build me a harness since I am not really confident on doing that and i know he will get it right and i wont have to think about it

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #72, 07-23-2012 06:53 PM
      i am just waiting for money from a turbo i sold on ebay I hate waiting

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #73, 07-26-2012 10:22 PM
      well i have now committed myself to the standard by buying the flywheel insert on 034 motorsports web site $400 and change all shipped to me

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #74, 07-27-2012 07:00 PM
      maybe hope for Chet's 7165 ECU with the MSD 6012 or the 6010 ignition controller http://www.msdignition.com/product.aspx?id=6899 even if i cant use it the LSx engine guys should be able to use it with the 7165 ECU .

chetw77cruiser MSG #75, 07-27-2012 08:31 PM
      If I read the info for these controllers correctly, the 7165 will work with this ignition. There is a catch though. The 7165 will not be in control of the ignition timing, but seeing that the MSD is programmable, this should not be a problem. The 7165 will need to have the ignition related codes disabled. For signal input to the 7165, just tie into the tach output from the MSD controller, just make sure there is a tach filter between the two. I have a schematic for such a filter if you want it now. As far as issues matching the ignition to your engine, I may not be much help. If anything else comes to mind, I will let you know.

Will (william.lucke@gmail.com) MSG #76, 07-27-2012 09:12 PM
     
 
quote

without the headaches of wiring a modern EFI system.


Must be nice to have a market of morons to sell into...


engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #77, 07-27-2012 10:56 PM
      Thats good news Chet if i remember right you where saying you only need to change some wires on the harness to use the 7165 and this ignition looks pretty straight forward so it might make it easier to swap and upgrade

[This message has been edited by engine man (edited 07-28-2012).]

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #78, 07-29-2012 04:02 PM
      Well the engine and cradle just hanging by 2 bolts and you know what 2 i am talking about dam bolts felt like they where gonna go all the way then the nut part broke free and choice words where said !

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #79, 07-29-2012 10:11 PM
      chetw77cruiser should i get the engine harness from the camaro/ firebird that i get the 7165 from and get a V8 one so it would eliminate the need to do any rewiring or would i still need to do wiring ?

[This message has been edited by engine man (edited 07-29-2012).]

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #80, 07-30-2012 03:12 PM
      engine is out now just need to take it off the cradle . it is so oily and grease makes you want to run away but i will get the engine off the cradle in the next couple of day's




Will (william.lucke@gmail.com) MSG #81, 07-30-2012 03:39 PM
      It's easier to unplug the harness from the ECM and pull it through the firewall than it is to unplug it from everything on the engine.

Also not necessary to remove the intake manifold to remove the engine.


engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #82, 07-30-2012 04:13 PM
      i was trying to sell the intake thats why i took it off, the harness would have been easier to do like you said but the engine is out now

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #83, 07-31-2012 12:11 PM
      Let me say one thing YOU CAN NEVER USE TO MUCH NEVER SEEZ gosh dam it it would have been better if he never took it apart and put the red Polly bushings in the back i think he use salt water to put it back together

[This message has been edited by engine man (edited 07-31-2012).]

Will (william.lucke@gmail.com) MSG #84, 07-31-2012 02:06 PM
      I find it amusing that I use anti-seize when reassembling things that GM assembled with Loctite.

FieroWannaBe (patond@alumni.msoe.edu) MSG #85, 07-31-2012 02:41 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by Will:

I find it amusing that I use anti-seize when reassembling things that GM assembled with Loctite.


From my experience, especially in WI, even loctite allows for the possiblity joint seperation, but the use of penetrating oil usually leaves the joint so dry after evaperation they joint just rusts together. Especially when reusing bolts, as subsequent uses slowly remove the zinc plating.


engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #86, 07-31-2012 08:10 PM
      well i can start doing some work to put the Audi on the cradle tomorrow but need to work on the house also so do a Little hear and a Little there

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #87, 08-02-2012 07:18 PM
      I dint get as much done as i wanted but this is the position on the cradle as far as front to back and it shows the angle of my axles i could go more if i want to cut the fire wall . i still need to work on the back cross member so the transmission sits right



[This message has been edited by engine man (edited 08-02-2012).]

seajai MSG #88, 08-03-2012 09:40 AM
      What is the measurement from the transmission bell housing to the center-line of the axle? Curious to see if it matched the 7.87" you had found in your previous thread http://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum2/HTML/122938.html . How far back from the wheel center-line is the axle center-line?

[This message has been edited by seajai (edited 08-03-2012).]

motoracer838 (jmartin@musicunveiled.com) MSG #89, 08-03-2012 09:53 AM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by engine man:

I dint get as much done as i wanted but this is the position on the cradle as far as front to back and it shows the angle of my axles i could go more if i want to cut the fire wall . i still need to work on the back cross member so the transmission sits right







Starting near the bottom of page one, see how I dealt with modifying the cradle to get the transaxle down where it needed to be and solve a matinence problem. tour axle angle looks very much where I wound up.

http://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum1/HTML/086876.html

Cheers Beers n Gearz. Joe



engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #90, 08-03-2012 11:33 AM
      if i remember correctly the axle centerline to bellhousing face is about 6.75 on the 012 transmission and 7.87 on the 016 i have the 012 transmission seajai. thanks for the help motoracer838


engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #91, 08-04-2012 08:20 AM
      034 motorsports flywheel insert and a F1 ceramic clutch disk no springs


engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #92, 08-05-2012 10:10 PM
      Has any one used these VEMS ecu it seems all the audi guys use them http://www.vems.us/

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #93, 08-07-2012 03:08 PM
      just posting a picture of a newer Audi A4 transmission i would love to have it has the axle moved forward a whole bunch as you can see i found this one on the UK ebay it is a 6 speed standard

[This message has been edited by engine man (edited 08-07-2012).]

FieroWannaBe (patond@alumni.msoe.edu) MSG #94, 08-07-2012 03:53 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by engine man:

just posting a picture of a newer Audi A4 transmission i would love to have it has the axle moved forward a whole bunch as you can see i found this one on the UK ebay it is a 6 speed standard



What year audi was this transaxle from?


northeastfiero (carlgill@hotmail.com) MSG #95, 08-07-2012 05:06 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by FieroWannaBe:


What year audi was this transaxle from?


It is from an A4 A5 2.0 Tdi around the 150bhp mark.


engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #96, 08-07-2012 07:25 PM
      diesel right so higher torque

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #97, 08-07-2012 07:38 PM
      well i just went and looked it up and that engine makes like 280 FT lbs of torque so i would think the transmission would be rated some where in the 300 ft lbs torque range but i will try to find that info to i think they are Getrag transmissions

CowsPatoot MSG #98, 08-08-2012 02:07 AM
      My first thought was that if it was made for a diesel engine, it might be geared a bit low for the engine you are using...but after research, the ratios are:

Final: 3.693
1st: 3.778
2nd: 2.050
3rd: 1.321
4th: 0.970
5th: 0.757
6th: 0.625

Outside of 4th gear being a tad quicker, those are almost identical to the 2006 F40...but with a 3.693 final rather than the F40's 3.55. The only other question is...what rpm is that transmission rated to spin to? Although you can probably get away with over-revving the tranny some, the engine it came with gets it's peak power at 4200rpm as opposed to your engine's 6500rpm.


Reallybig MSG #99, 08-08-2012 03:58 AM
      Does your engine have the same bellhousing bolt pattern as the newer transmission?

FieroWannaBe (patond@alumni.msoe.edu) MSG #100, 08-08-2012 09:10 AM
      What is the clutch and differential layout as well? the differential look to be right where the clutch would normally be.

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #101, 08-08-2012 01:05 PM
      ya from what i could see the clutch is the problem looks like it takes some special stuff so to make it work like a small triple disk and i think it would cost so much $$$$ it wouldn't be worth it . the gearing would not be to bad since the engine stock red line is 6600 rpm and they bump that up to 7000 rpm but if i had the R8 engine it has a red line of like 8200 rpm

[This message has been edited by engine man (edited 08-08-2012).]

FieroWannaBe (patond@alumni.msoe.edu) MSG #102, 08-08-2012 01:29 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by engine man:

ya from what i could see the clutch is the problem looks like it takes some special stuff so to make it work like a small triple disk and i think it would cost so much $$$$ it wouldn't be worth it . the gearing would not be to bad since the engine stock red line is 6600 rpm and they bump that up to 7000 rpm but if i had the R8 engine it has a red line of like 8200 rpm



With the R8 engine your looking at a "Lambourghini" AWD Transaxle, and a drivetrain value that exceeds almost any Fiero's value.
But I do wonder if the latest manual transaxle there is a dual clutch unit.


engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #103, 08-09-2012 07:25 PM
      Well just gotta add 1 more pipe and finish welding and make it look prettier







ericjon262 MSG #104, 08-10-2012 01:01 AM
      whoa!? you're actually building this?

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #105, 08-10-2012 02:06 AM
      yes i felt it was worth doing

[This message has been edited by engine man (edited 08-10-2012).]

gmctyphoon1992 (chevy1971corvette454@ymail.com) MSG #106, 08-10-2012 02:17 AM
     

Im looking forward to hear this run..probably sounds great


Austrian Import (maximilian_ledworowski@csumb.edu) MSG #107, 08-10-2012 02:20 AM
      This should help with inspiration:


Here's the whole crazy long thread: 4.2l Audi V8 6speed in a Lotus Esprit
I hope this thread, as well as contacting the builder will help you complete your project.



engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #108, 08-10-2012 05:52 PM
      I wanted to go work on the car but my back was killing me after work so i must wait till Monday when my buddy is open so i can finish welding it all up

seajai MSG #109, 08-10-2012 06:31 PM
      How did you determine forward engine placement on the cradle?

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #110, 08-10-2012 06:51 PM
      I measured from the top of the frame to the top of the firewall then from the top of the frame to the top of the engine so i could measure down the firewall to where the top of the engine would be . knowing that from the very top of the firewall to axle center is 20 inches i measured down to where the top of the engine would be then took a plum bob and measured how far forward the fire wall kicked forward to see how far forward i could move the engine then i measured from the front cradle mounts to the axle center line and that was 22 inches this gave me something to measure off on the cradle to position the engine. it just happen to be i could put the front pulley right even with the front cradle mount bolt hole when all said and done

[This message has been edited by engine man (edited 08-10-2012).]

seajai MSG #111, 08-10-2012 11:27 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by engine man:

I measured from the top of the frame to the top of the firewall then from the top of the frame to the top of the engine so i could measure down the firewall to where the top of the engine would be . knowing that from the very top of the firewall to axle center is 20 inches i measured down to where the top of the engine would be then took a plum bob and measured how far forward the fire wall kicked forward to see how far forward i could move the engine then i measured from the front cradle mounts to the axle center line and that was 22 inches this gave me something to measure off on the cradle to position the engine. it just happen to be i could put the front pulley right even with the front cradle mount bolt hole when all said and done



So what did your axle offset end up being from the trans to the hub? How tall is the Audi V8?


engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #112, 08-11-2012 02:01 AM
      about 4 3/4 inches since from the from the front of the pulley to the center of the axle on the transmission was 26 3/4 inches and from the front cradle bolt hole it is 22 inches to the hub centerline so 22 from 26 3/4 = 4 3/4

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #113, 08-13-2012 03:52 PM
      the cradle all done ! it could be prettier but oh well



engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #114, 08-13-2012 06:53 PM
      ? is it possible to read and copy all the tables from a stock ecu and put them on a aftermarket ecu as a starting point

[This message has been edited by engine man (edited 08-13-2012).]

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #115, 08-14-2012 02:33 AM
      Any one use Mitchel's online auto repair manual is it any good i am going to try it for the wiring schematics http://www.eautorepair.net/...ult.asp?VID=&Count=Y

fieroguru MSG #116, 08-14-2012 06:28 AM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by engine man:

? is it possible to read and copy all the tables from a stock ecu and put them on a aftermarket ecu as a starting point



Yes and no. It is possible to copy and paste the information, but there are a couple of issues.

The size/shapes of the tables might be different and require interpolating data for points you don't have or you might need to lose resolution to fit in a smaller table.
The second and more important aspect is rarely is a single or multiple table all you need. For example a stock speed density computer uses values across multiple tables to control the fueling at a given load, rpm, throttle opening, engine temp, air temp, voltage and O2 feedback (not including all the constant values). So when you swap computers, you can lose or gain additional contributing tables for the fuel/timing control which will alter the numbers in the tables across the board.

When going from one GM ecm to another GM ecm, I have copy/pasted/manipulated the tables as a closer starting point (like using the LT4 map/rpm table for my Ramjet setup), but once the tuning starts most values needed some minor tweaking anyway.


engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #117, 08-14-2012 10:57 AM
      thanks Fieroguru I am still up in the air about weather to run the stock ecu with chip and immobilizer or do the Vems V3 or meegasquirt MS3x no matter what it is $700 but with the Vems and Megasquirt i can tune and stock can be but from what i am told on this Bosch unit the chip needs to be unsolderd and burned even though it is OBD2. I just thought of 1 other thing can a ostrich emulator be used in my Bosch motronic obd2 ecu and could i copy the original maps to it modify and turn off the automatic transmission stuff ?

[This message has been edited by engine man (edited 08-14-2012).]

Will (william.lucke@gmail.com) MSG #118, 08-14-2012 08:53 PM
      Is that 1x2 rectangular tubing for the new rear crossmember?

I'm not sure that's stiff enough to take the weight + torque load from the powertrain by itself without bowing... And it's absolutely not good enough to put any kind of cornering loads on the cradle.

You need to gusset and brace the heck out of that before you start cornering hard.


engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #119, 08-14-2012 08:53 PM
      Wow i opened up my ecu and not a pretty site not even sure it would work but i will get some electronics cleaner and spray it down and see what it looks like

[This message has been edited by engine man (edited 08-14-2012).]

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #120, 08-14-2012 09:02 PM
      I suppose i could make a few gussets for it and weld them in

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #121, 08-15-2012 04:05 PM
      well i looked again to day and its gonna be tight between the strut towers but will just fit with an inch on each side

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #122, 08-16-2012 07:20 PM
      Well i am going with Vems at EFI Express $790 this included ECU , Connectors & Maps for the 4.2 V8 http://www.efiexpress.com/catalog/index.php
I thought i would list what i have spent and need to spend

1998 Fiero GT T-Top $1300
1998 Audi A8 4.2 engine with 2001 passat transmission with wiring harness and ecu $1000
Vems ECU $790
90 inch long transmission cables ?
Porsche Boxster transmission brackets $300 bought on ebay with cales for $75.00
034 Motorsports flywheel insert $400 shipped
Clutch disk $69
stock pressure plate from passat $0.00
cut and weld Axles ?

[This message has been edited by engine man (edited 08-18-2012).]

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #123, 08-17-2012 06:17 PM
      well i have a few things to clean up and a few parts to wait for befor it really gets put in but hear is a few pictures of what it kinda will look like


[This message has been edited by engine man (edited 08-17-2012).]

Reallybig MSG #124, 08-18-2012 06:11 PM
      Looking' good!

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #125, 08-18-2012 08:24 PM
      Thanks gonna get back at it tomorrow

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #126, 08-19-2012 02:33 PM
      Man i have to say this just looks right and is down right sexy looking as far as car's go



Austrian Import (maximilian_ledworowski@csumb.edu) MSG #127, 08-19-2012 04:03 PM
      Gorgeous!! Please post more pictures.



Will (william.lucke@gmail.com) MSG #128, 08-19-2012 04:22 PM
      A little late to think about it now, but the Passat W8 would be an even better fit and reduce the amount of setback your axles require...

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #129, 08-19-2012 09:41 PM
      I like what i have I am sure the W8 would be right at home but i bet you would pay more for just the engine than i did for all that i got and she is going to be a sexy beast. I will post some more pictures when i get a bit further along

[This message has been edited by engine man (edited 08-19-2012).]

BV MotorSports (sbvincent@yahoo.com) MSG #130, 08-19-2012 11:43 PM
      Nice, its good to see some original swaps! Good luck.

355Fiero MSG #131, 08-20-2012 01:10 AM
      Engine man;

In the pic looking at the rear on, is the cradle hard up against the frame with the trans sitting in the position it is in the pic or is there more work to get it a bit further up so the trans is a bit more behind the rear bumper?

Looking great. I have a Ferrari 355 3" stretched frame that i wanted to do this with so I am following this to see how it all turns out.

Keep the updates coming.

Cheers
Don

 
quote
Originally posted by engine man:

well i have a few things to clean up and a few parts to wait for befor it really gets put in but hear is a few pictures of what it kinda will look like








engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #132, 08-20-2012 07:37 AM
      no 355fiero it is not all the way up to the frame i am going to get some pictures today with it all in place and the end of the transmission is just shy of the back of the trunk by about an inch . with a 3 inch stretch like you have it would work out really nice your axle offset would be about 2 inches or less mine is just under 5 inches . thanks BV motorsports it feels good to do an original

[This message has been edited by engine man (edited 08-20-2012).]

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #133, 08-20-2012 10:46 AM
      pictures of it all the way in and needing to go forward 1 inch i need to modify the tunnel that go's across the fire wall but this is where the engine will sit other than that back cradle pads are touching the frame . oh ya the rear deck hinges are gonna need about 1/2 inch trimmed from the inside. I hope this helps 355Fiero or any body who is thinking of doing it I am kinda at a stand still now gotta wait for parts and some more money to really go further




[This message has been edited by engine man (edited 08-20-2012).]

355Fiero MSG #134, 08-20-2012 12:43 PM
      Oh yeah that is dead sexy.

Thanks for pushing it up the rest of the way. Looks like I will be swapping my 3.4 dohc against a Getrg to a setup like this. Btw, I agree with the other member that you will most likely have issues using only the 1x2 to support the trans end at the back of the cradle. Motoracer (Joe) did a slightly different setup at the rear using 2x2 I believe that looks a bunch stronger.

Please keep the updtaes coming as you keep going.

Thanks again for sharing.
Don


engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #135, 08-20-2012 01:52 PM
      what i am thinking is to weld some 2 X 2 1/4 thick channel iron to the bottom side to stiffen it up

Will (william.lucke@gmail.com) MSG #136, 08-20-2012 07:30 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by engine man:

what i am thinking is to weld some 2 X 2 1/4 thick channel iron to the bottom side to stiffen it up


You'll need to do a lot more than that.

The loads on the lateral links in the suspension will try to fold each cradle side rail under the car. The mounts from the rail to the frame on the same side will not be able to withstand the moment. The rear crossmember needs to be *triangulated* well enough that loads on one rail can be shared by all four mounts.

Think about how beefy the stock rear cradle crossmember is... you'll need something at least that stiff in vertical bending. Ideally it should be stronger because you'll be applying greater loads to it than stock.

Did you get a before weight for the car or a before/after weight for the cradle + assembled powertrain?

I think your right engine mount is going to need triangulation also.

[This message has been edited by Will (edited 08-20-2012).]

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #137, 08-20-2012 08:09 PM
      i think i don't under stand what you are say but let me try . now do you want me to triangulate from the center of the crossmember to the side rails horizontally or do you want me to do a gusset on the crossmembers that reach up higher on the mounting points or just do all the above

[This message has been edited by engine man (edited 08-20-2012).]

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #138, 08-21-2012 05:30 PM
      Will i think i understand what you are saying is that when the side load while cornering is going to try or will fold the mounting pad legs in the back up an under so i need to triangulate from the mounting pad down to the crossmember

Will (william.lucke@gmail.com) MSG #139, 08-21-2012 05:56 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by engine man:

Will i think i understand what you are saying is that when the side load while cornering is going to try or will fold the mounting pad legs in the back up an under so i need to triangulate from the mounting pad down to the crossmember


Yes.

You'll need to build what will be in essesnce a truss ( http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Truss ) that connects the two mounting pad legs. This makes each mounting pad leg triangulated against the mounting point on the opposite side of the body.

However, your truss needs a hole in it for your transmission.


engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #140, 08-21-2012 08:22 PM
      Ya i agree that it needs to be fixed i need to get the transmission linkage so i know where to put the pipe's .thanks i wasn't thinking of that side load and the long like legs going up and the leverage it was going to have on all of it

[This message has been edited by engine man (edited 08-21-2012).]

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #141, 08-24-2012 12:20 PM
      well the transmission linkage showed up with cables it is from a 97-99 Porsche boxter it fits perfect oh ya it should Porsche boxster , Audi a4 and VW passat all used the 012 getrag transmission and the price was right $75

Austrian Import (maximilian_ledworowski@csumb.edu) MSG #142, 08-24-2012 01:28 PM
      what's your plan for the rear suspension? stock, or double wishbone?




Porsche Boxster rear suspension


Redesign a Fiero suspension for better geometry (Solidworks, ProEngineer, etc)

[This message has been edited by Austrian Import (edited 08-24-2012).]

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #143, 08-24-2012 04:50 PM
      just stock i don't see any need to do anything to it , first you must exceed it's limits before needing any more and i don't think to many drivers even come close to it's limitations . I took some pictures of the transmission linkage



engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #144, 08-26-2012 10:22 PM
      Well it was a nice day today but i did not work on the car and need to get back at it tomorrow along with repair my truck brake line that blew out due to being old and rusted i hope to have the engine all bolted in place and rear suspension back on by the end of the week then i will have to wait to get enough money to buy my Vems ECU to run it and i don't think i will have enough money before October at the earliest .

Erik (hardkandiboi@hotmail.com) MSG #145, 08-27-2012 01:48 PM
      The engine looks like it sets really low in the engine bay but I noticed that you dont have the cradle bolted up. It would be sweet to have a flat 6 Porsche in a Fiero.

[This message has been edited by Erik (edited 08-27-2012).]

Will (william.lucke@gmail.com) MSG #146, 08-27-2012 05:52 PM
      It would be a waste of a Porsche engine, but might be doable with a Subaru 6.

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #147, 08-27-2012 06:10 PM
      Thanks Erik it will be all bolted in by the end of the week and i will take pictures of it the but the last pictures i posted it was at the right hight just needed it to go forward . the only thing that is holing me up right now is the nub that the clutch fan screw on to on the water pump i need to cut it off and saws all blades aren't touching it need to get some cut off wheels .

Austrian Import (maximilian_ledworowski@csumb.edu) MSG #148, 08-28-2012 12:18 AM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by Erik:
The engine looks like it sets really low in the engine bay but I noticed that you dont have the cradle bolted up. It would be sweet to have a flat 6 Porsche in a Fiero.


+1 also a Subaru boxer motor


Reallybig MSG #149, 08-28-2012 12:30 AM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by Austrian Import:


+1 also a Subaru boxer motor


Alright, don't keep us guessing, what year would you suggest and what are that's engine's stats?


seajai MSG #150, 08-28-2012 12:46 AM
      There is a kit to make a 4wd subie trans into a 2wd for mid engine applications. http://www.bremarauto.com/p...-2wd-conversion-kit/ A little spendy tho...

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #151, 08-28-2012 02:00 AM
      Hmmm i have heard the Subaru transmission is really strong but mine bolts right up and the 6 speed 01E fwd from a 05-08 A4 is just as strong and Kennedy engineering makes engine adapter kits

[This message has been edited by engine man (edited 08-28-2012).]

Will (william.lucke@gmail.com) MSG #152, 08-28-2012 10:26 AM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by Reallybig:

Alright, don't keep us guessing, what year would you suggest and what are that's engine's stats?


Any WRX (2.0) or STi (2.5) 4 cylinder or the 3.0 flat 6 from Outbacks and such (there are even some JDM versions of this engine that are pretty hot right out of the box--like 270 HP from a N/A 3.0.
The STi six speed converted to 2WD is the only realistic transmission option, though. It's the only Subaru stick strong enough to take abuse.


FieroWannaBe (patond@alumni.msoe.edu) MSG #153, 08-28-2012 01:23 PM
      The 2009 WRX came eqiuped with a 5 speed box, (same as previous gen STI) and the 265HP 2.5 Turbo 4. That box is pretty stout, and easily convertable to 2wd with parts from subarugears.com. I am not aware that the 6 speed box can be converted with easy to order parts at this time.

Austrian Import (maximilian_ledworowski@csumb.edu) MSG #154, 08-28-2012 07:52 PM
      This images is larger than 153600 bytes. Click to view.

Factory Five 818 forum


engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #155, 08-29-2012 12:04 AM
      wow that transmission is so long you would have to use the 4 cylinder and even then it might be sticking out past the bumper. I worked on the car a bit today and just cant seem to get it to go that last inch forward and cant see what is holding it from going in dam i just thought of something that stupid trunk spring hangs down next to the hinge.

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #156, 08-29-2012 03:01 PM
      Darn it the porsche Boxster cables are just to short it looks like i will try 1 more thing to try and make them work

355Fiero MSG #157, 08-29-2012 04:35 PM
      engine man;

Great build diary. I was looking through Joe's (motoracer838's) frame build up for the longitudinal engine orientation and his rear end framing would work very well in your application. You wouldn't lose any ground clearance as the tube running across is the same height as the original cross tube.

As for the Porsche shifter cables, I have seen lots of replica builders put a connection setup several inches forward of the oem locations where the stock cables reach and connect the trans levers to the extensions. The connection setup pretty much replicates the normal setup and uses straight rods to extend the position enough required to hook it all up.

Keep up the great work.

Cheers
Don


engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #158, 08-30-2012 02:58 AM
      Great idea with extension rods first i will try rerouting but if that doesn't work then i will do the rods

355Fiero MSG #159, 08-30-2012 02:54 PM
      A web site link to some build diaries for Diablos to give you some ideas for extensions if you need to go there.

Cheers
Don

http://lambolounge.com/Chas...ter/Audi-Shifter.asp


engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #160, 08-30-2012 04:44 PM
      Wow i got it but there is a hole now just behind the passenger seat for the cables thay will come out from the center console to exit out just behind the seat the carpet will cover it then they go between the alterator and alternator bracket the bracket need relieving for the cables . i have to relieve the hump that the fuel filler hose hides behind because the pulleys hits. 1 inch should be more than enough then it should all fit . it's not really hard to do but just allot of test fitting and cutting things out of the way

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #161, 08-31-2012 12:34 PM
      so close but not yet i guess i am being very careful with my trimming i am off by a 1/4 inch and the water pump pulley is just hitting and the passenger side motor mount needs some grinding due t it is hitting the front cradle stirrup mount

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #162, 08-31-2012 06:41 PM
      It's in










Austrian Import (maximilian_ledworowski@csumb.edu) MSG #163, 09-01-2012 03:53 AM
      I still can't believe it fits!

How much lower does that motor sit in the engine bay than the Fiero motor did? Or compared to a LS4 swap?

Wonder why an LS motor could never do a longitudinal layout like that? - Is it the lack of a fwd transaxle? (using adapter plates takes up precious room?)

[This message has been edited by Austrian Import (edited 09-01-2012).]

Austrian Import (maximilian_ledworowski@csumb.edu) MSG #164, 09-01-2012 04:00 AM
      Forgive me if you mentioned this before:
What car is that engine out of specifically? Was there a plastic cover over the engine of some sort? I'm trying to picture what this motor usually looked like, as a quick google image search yields about a dozen different engine cover layouts.

[This message has been edited by Austrian Import (edited 09-01-2012).]

OneSlowFiero MSG #165, 09-01-2012 04:02 AM
      That looks awesome! I can't wait to hear an exhaust clip. That intake manifold would look awesome chromed or painted the same color as the car. Great work!
-Josh


engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #166, 09-01-2012 07:35 AM
      the top of the engine is about a few inches lower then the stock 2.8 . i need to get some new plastic covers and it would look nice if i sanded and polished that intake no need to chrome it is aluminum and can be polished and the engine came out of a 1998 Audi A8 it has 299 HP from the factory internals are all forged including the pistons . thanks for the comments i am having a ball building this

[This message has been edited by engine man (edited 09-01-2012).]

Will (william.lucke@gmail.com) MSG #167, 09-01-2012 08:26 AM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by Austrian Import:

Wonder why an LS motor could never do a longitudinal layout like that? - Is it the lack of a fwd transaxle? (using adapter plates takes up precious room?)



LS engines are much too long. The Audi has a 91mm bore center. The LS and Chevy engines have 111.8 mm bore center


engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #168, 09-01-2012 12:47 PM
      Yes the LS engine would be a big challenge but it could be done if you used this transmission but it would be allot of work and money as you need the special clutch set up for this transmission



Austrian Import (maximilian_ledworowski@csumb.edu) MSG #169, 09-01-2012 12:57 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by Will:
LS engines are much too long. The Audi has a 91mm bore center. The LS and Chevy engines have 111.8 mm bore center


Thank you! Was always curious. If you happen to have the numbers, what's the measurements of a Subie Boxer, or other very "short" (lengthwise) engine blocks?


engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #170, 09-01-2012 01:46 PM
      If i where to do a 6 cylinder longitudinal i would use a 4.3 Chevy v6 1996 and up they have good cylinder heads and they are short enough to work but have good displacement and Kennedy engineering has adapter plates and flywheels . I tried talking a friend into this swap but he has a racing 4.3 V6 with Brodix # 10 little brodie's all ported and solid lifter roller cam it makes around 430 HP na at the crank

[This message has been edited by engine man (edited 09-01-2012).]

Austrian Import (maximilian_ledworowski@csumb.edu) MSG #171, 09-01-2012 10:50 PM
      .

[This message has been edited by Austrian Import (edited 09-01-2012).]

Austrian Import (maximilian_ledworowski@csumb.edu) MSG #172, 09-01-2012 10:51 PM
      Curious: Why are you using a clutch without springs, as opposed to a sprung one?

One like this clutchnet one (with covered springs)



engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #173, 09-01-2012 11:06 PM
      no real reason just i found a disk for $69 on ebay so i bought it. it maybe tough to take off smooth with it but we will see as i have driven solid hub clutches before just not on the street

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #174, 09-02-2012 12:56 PM
      i should have the rear suspension on by the end of the week then in a few weeks i will buy the plug for the Vems ecu and wire that up then all i will need is to buy the Vems ecu with it all programed and just plug it in and it should run

[This message has been edited by engine man (edited 09-02-2012).]

Will (william.lucke@gmail.com) MSG #175, 09-02-2012 03:40 PM
      The springs in the clutch hub only serve to silence gear rattle in the transmission. They have no effect on the driver's ability to modulate the clutch (until they come out of their sockets in the hub and jam the release mechanism, that is)

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #176, 09-02-2012 10:17 PM
      True throttle and clutch control are the biggest part of taking off smooth

tampalinc MSG #177, 09-02-2012 10:54 PM
      What trans are you running and do you know the gear ratios?
From doing some quick searches, it looks like the 01E code ARX would be great with the ABZ 4.2L engine in a Fiero.
Can't wait to see this thing running and driving.

[This message has been edited by tampalinc (edited 09-03-2012).]

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #178, 09-03-2012 07:07 AM
      I have the 012 transmission it is a 5 speed that is used in 97-99 boxsters and it is in VW passat and the A4 mine is out of a 2001 passat that had a 2.8 . If i upgrade the power with turbos in the future then i will get the 01E or if i blow this trans up i will get the 01E 6 speed

Austrian Import (maximilian_ledworowski@csumb.edu) MSG #179, 09-03-2012 03:14 PM
      Well, if the clutch works for you, then why not?

Are you using stock Audi engine, transmission mounts, or are you mounting them solid? What's your reasoning either way?


tampalinc MSG #180, 09-03-2012 06:30 PM
      How close do the axles get to lining up with the hub?
Does it look like their is any chance of using Audi hubs in place of the Fiero?


engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #181, 09-03-2012 06:58 PM
      the passat axle look to be the right length and it they are about 4 3/4 off center with the hub i have been tempted to see if i could press the fiero hub out and press in a passat hub as they are the same bolt pattern 5 x 100 . If i could just find what the dimension are of the bearing in the fiero hub assembly

[This message has been edited by engine man (edited 09-03-2012).]

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #182, 09-03-2012 07:14 PM
      well after doing a quick search using a vw hub wont work so on with my other idea

seajai MSG #183, 09-03-2012 10:40 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by engine man:

the passat axle look to be the right length and it they are about 4 3/4 off center with the hub i have been tempted to see if i could press the fiero hub out and press in a passat hub as they are the same bolt pattern 5 x 100 . If i could just find what the dimension are of the bearing in the fiero hub assembly



Check out this site: http://catalog.prec-auto.com/ It's an online catalog for Precision wheel bearings. When you pull up the bearing, you can click on "attributes" and it will have all of the dimensions for that particular bearing.



engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #184, 09-04-2012 01:12 AM
      OK what i can do is use a 2000 Audi A6 wheel bearing assembly then use the 2000 VW Passat hub but it looks like the knuckle will need some machining

Sourmug MSG #185, 09-04-2012 01:13 AM
      Looks like she's coming along nicely, thanks for posting pictures on your progress.

Nolan


engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #186, 09-04-2012 03:55 AM
      Thanks i hope in the end it is half as nice as yours Sourmug

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #187, 09-04-2012 07:18 PM
      Jeez having more fun with the rear knuckles and rusted cross bolt's gonna have to bring it to the machinist to have them removed

Chris Hodson MSG #188, 09-04-2012 08:34 PM
      You are my hero.

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #189, 09-04-2012 08:55 PM
      Dont't know why i would be a hero but thanks

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #190, 09-04-2012 09:56 PM
      OK i thought i would share how i plan on solving the drive axle issue out at the wheels .
first i will have the machine shop machine off the spindle of the VW outer cv joint and bore a hole

then i will have them machine off the Fiero spindle with extra material

then i will have them take the fiero spindle with the extra material and turn it down to fit the hole in the VW CV joint with a press fit i will also leave a step so it sits square then just weld around it all done now you have a cv joint that fits the passat axles with a fiero spindle end


seajai MSG #191, 09-04-2012 11:06 PM
      How tough would it be to have the outer end VW axle re-ground to the correct dia and spline count to fit into the Fiero C/V joint? Then it would be as easy as sticking a Fiero C/V on a VW shaft. Also would make any future C/V repairs easy.

[This message has been edited by seajai (edited 09-04-2012).]

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #192, 09-05-2012 02:18 AM
      you could do that but you are still in the same boat if the axle breaks then you need another resplined so no matter what way you go there is going to be something. I just figure my local shop can do this where if the axle needs to be resplined it needs to be sent away

[This message has been edited by engine man (edited 09-05-2012).]

Will (william.lucke@gmail.com) MSG #193, 09-05-2012 10:36 AM
      If you had Moser or similar make a custom set of shafts, you won't ever deal with breaking a shaft.

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #194, 09-05-2012 11:19 AM
      OK what i am ending up doing is make it use all stock parts. so the knuckle will be machined to except these Audi A6 bearings and the VW passat 5 x 112 wheel bolt pattern hubs that will be pressed in and then i can just use stock VW passat axles. i will need to re-drill the rotor to 5x112 or the hub to 5x100

[This message has been edited by engine man (edited 09-05-2012).]

Will (william.lucke@gmail.com) MSG #195, 09-05-2012 01:49 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by engine man:
then i can just use stock VW passat axles.


Is the track width correct?

 
quote
Originally posted by engine man:
i will need to re-drill the rotor to 5x112 or the hub to 5x100


Or use VW wheels...


engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #196, 09-05-2012 02:22 PM
      yes the track width was like 1/2 inch different so a 1/4 inch per side

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #197, 09-06-2012 03:44 PM
      I am going with a standalone computer for the engine so do i leave the stock computer in the car and only hook up the Gauge connections to the engine or how is it done

fieroguru MSG #198, 09-06-2012 04:23 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by engine man:

OK what i am ending up doing is make it use all stock parts. so the knuckle will be machined to except these Audi A6 bearings and the VW passat 5 x 112 wheel bolt pattern hubs that will be pressed in and then i can just use stock VW passat axles. i will need to re-drill the rotor to 5x112 or the hub to 5x100





You probably need to check fitment to the 88 upright to make sure there is material in the location of the new mounting pattern.


engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #199, 09-06-2012 06:13 PM
      Ya the machinist was a little worried about that but it looked like if positioned just right it would work

seajai MSG #200, 09-06-2012 10:55 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by engine man:

I am going with a standalone computer for the engine so do i leave the stock computer in the car and only hook up the Gauge connections to the engine or how is it done


The gauges are just operated by sensors and not dependent on the ECM. The problem you are going to have is making the tach work with COP ignition and the speedo work with a VW speed sensor. The Fiero speed sensor is a permanent magnet generator producing 4000 pulses per mile. You would need to find out what style sensor is used in the VW tranny and how many PPM it puts out. I'm not too sure how to marry the two. I would suggest downloading the 88 factory service manual if you haven't already.

Service manual is here: http://www.fieronews.net/fu...nloads.php?cat_id=15

[This message has been edited by seajai (edited 09-06-2012).]

chetw77cruiser MSG #201, 09-06-2012 11:07 PM
      If I remember correctly, the VEMS has a tach-out function just for driving a tachometer. I could be mistaken though.

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #202, 09-07-2012 02:05 AM
      Well i will take the harness out and ditch the stock ecu and all the wires not needed

One wicked svt (nuclearpjr@aol.com) MSG #203, 09-08-2012 01:26 PM
      Does the vw trans and the Audi engine bolt up to each other?

If not, you have swap numbers for Kennedy.


bubbajoexxx (bubbajoexx@sympatico.ca) MSG #204, 09-08-2012 07:33 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by One wicked svt:

Does the vw trans and the Audi engine bolt up to each other?

If not, you have swap numbers for Kennedy.


from what i see its an audi gearbox as there are no VW trans axles since 1978 the vw uses audi boxes

[This message has been edited by bubbajoexxx (edited 09-08-2012).]

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #205, 09-08-2012 08:57 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by One wicked svt:

Does the vw trans and the Audi engine bolt up to each other?

If not, you have swap numbers for Kennedy.


yes this transmission came from a 2001 passat it is what is called a 012 transmission and it bolt right to the Audi engine it has a dual bolt pattern and the shift linkage is from a Porsche boxster as it uses this same 012 transmission in the 97-99 years . the 012 is not the best transmission for the toughest you want the 01E fwd 6 speed it is in 04 and up Audi A4's and it bolts to the Audi v8 . i forgot you can get a 016 transmission they came in Audi 5000 ,90,100,200 from mid 80's to mid 90's and are a bit tougher than the 012 i am told and bolt up to the V8 Audi and for the flywheel 034 motorsports

[This message has been edited by engine man (edited 09-08-2012).]

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #206, 09-14-2012 12:30 PM
      I am going crazy waiting but i need to get the parts from the machine shop so i can do more work

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #207, 09-18-2012 05:51 PM
      I stopped by the machine shop today ad he said end of the week or beginning of next week on the knuckles

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #208, 09-20-2012 05:41 PM
      Yaaa i think i will have a new job soon just need to pass drug test and background then i go to work for Ruger firearms the end results is more fun money for the car and other projects like building a garage

Will (william.lucke@gmail.com) MSG #209, 09-22-2012 11:21 AM
      Good luck!

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #210, 09-22-2012 01:49 PM
      Thanks Will , I know the drug test isnt any problem and the back ground check should not be a problem as i have never been arrested for anything in my life never seen a jail cell

Joseph Upson (j.j.upson@worldnet.att.net) MSG #211, 09-22-2012 02:08 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by engine man:

... i have never been arrested for anything in my life never seen a jail cell


Don't worry, there's still time.

Good luck, always glad to hear good things happen for others.



engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #212, 09-24-2012 08:33 PM
      wonder if one of you could photo shop this so i can get an idea how it would look on the chop top below

OK this front nose


on this car with its head lights

[This message has been edited by engine man (edited 09-27-2012).]

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #213, 09-25-2012 11:02 AM
      has any one tried 3000GT head lights


Will (william.lucke@gmail.com) MSG #214, 09-25-2012 11:10 AM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by engine man:

OK this front nose


on this car with its head lights



That's exceptionally ugly.


engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #215, 09-25-2012 12:27 PM
      Hey Will could you tell me how you really feel lol. I suppose it is a matter of taste i see things i don't like but others like so i am not offended in any way and it will be on my car

One wicked svt (nuclearpjr@aol.com) MSG #216, 09-26-2012 01:13 PM
      You do good work, please don't do that!



deadwood (blackhills@gmail.com) MSG #217, 09-26-2012 01:56 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by One wicked svt:

You do good work, please don't do that!


x2



engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #218, 09-26-2012 03:36 PM
      I went to the machine shop today and still no Knuckles they have done some of the machine work but not all and it has been 3 weeks i am starting to get ugly . now what do you two not want me to do if it is the nose i already have it and it is paid for it wont look bad when i am done

deadwood (blackhills@gmail.com) MSG #219, 09-26-2012 04:41 PM
      Yeah. The nose :/



nitroheadz28 MSG #220, 09-26-2012 06:09 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by engine man:

now what do you two not want me to do if it is the nose i already have it and it is paid for it wont look bad when i am done


It will look bad IMO . Apart from that I'm watching with great interest. I was walking through my school parking lot and saw a Jetta with a W8 in it, one can only dream..


engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #221, 09-27-2012 02:47 AM
      well every one is entitled to there opinion and i totally understand some not liking it and some liking it .

RCR (rcrabine@comcast.net) MSG #222, 09-27-2012 07:07 AM
      Don't let the naysayers get you down. Sometimes people don't realize that it's actually your car you are modifying and you have to live with it. It would be different if you had asked for an opinion.

Keep up the great thread. Looking forward to seeing how the story turns out.

Bob

[This message has been edited by RCR (edited 09-27-2012).]

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #223, 09-27-2012 08:40 AM
      Thanks RCR i did ask for Photo shop but got opinions instead

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #224, 09-27-2012 12:06 PM
      A picture showing the axle offset


northeastfiero (carlgill@hotmail.com) MSG #225, 09-27-2012 01:12 PM
      At the end of the day it is your car do it the way you want, which is pretty damb well. Keep up the good and intresting work.
I am intrested in how your axles turn out as I have not got any made for my engine swap my axle are probably a little more out of alignment than yours.


engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #226, 09-27-2012 01:34 PM
      that looks about the same maybe just a touch more but dam close . that engine is very nice looking and i am sure will sound and preform great. these headlight are from a Mitsubishi 3000gt 1994 and up i think they will work for what i want


ghost187x MSG #227, 09-27-2012 07:48 PM
     
That is a photoshop made from 85SEnochie . It uses NSX headlamps instead. Try posting in his photoshop thread: Photo Chop Shop is open lets give it a shot!
i think 3000gt headlamps with munson's nose has potential to look good.


engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #228, 09-27-2012 08:35 PM
      Thanks ghost187x the 3000gt headlights would look very similar and i think that thing looks great


Phirewire (codylkline@gmail.com) MSG #229, 09-27-2012 08:40 PM
      i always liked the idea of Angel eye sunfire lights in replacement.

http://www.sickhids.com/pho...-wheels/DSCN2103.JPG



RCR (rcrabine@comcast.net) MSG #230, 09-28-2012 01:40 PM
      Archie is doing a pair of those 3000GT head lights right now.

http://www.fiero.nl/forum/F.../HTML/000046-73.html

Bob


engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #231, 09-28-2012 03:49 PM
      Thanks RCR i just checked it out and they look great and when i get to that stage i am going to be putting a set in my car

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #232, 09-29-2012 02:11 AM
      Carbon creations has some nice looking 3000gt headlights but they are not cheap. i would post a pic but they are copy right protected
http://www.carid.com/1994-m...body-kit-860762.html

[This message has been edited by engine man (edited 09-29-2012).]

FieroWannaBe (patond@alumni.msoe.edu) MSG #233, 09-29-2012 09:47 AM
      Have you seen the headlights available from DoubleC4?
http://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum4/HTML/062663.html

a more bolt in approach


engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #234, 09-29-2012 10:34 AM
      those are interesting

doublec4 (doublec4@hotmail.com) MSG #235, 09-30-2012 01:20 AM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by engine man:

those are interesting


Let me know if you have any questions or need more info. I'd love to see them on this awesome build!



engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #236, 09-30-2012 05:15 AM
      Thanks and i am considering them since they are just bolt in and i like the looks of them

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #237, 10-03-2012 02:47 PM
      Yaa i got my knuckle back today from the machine shop








[This message has been edited by engine man (edited 10-03-2012).]

Will (william.lucke@gmail.com) MSG #238, 10-03-2012 03:01 PM
      Interesting.

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #239, 10-03-2012 03:53 PM
      this should allow me to run VW passat axles when used with their hubs that are redrilled to 5x100 bolt pattern. the VW axles are bigger and have bigger CV joints

[This message has been edited by engine man (edited 10-03-2012).]

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #240, 10-04-2012 02:41 PM
      I went out to fastenall and had to order bolts so i can put the rear suspension back together . i got looking my Hayabusa throttle bodies and thought they might work as a ITB on the 4.2 Audi so i went out and laid them up there and it looks like almost perfect spacing

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #241, 10-06-2012 06:29 AM
      For those who would like more power Audi made an S8 32 valve 340 HP and they have a S8 40 valve 360 hp @ 7000 rpm mate that to the fwd 6 speed 01e transmission

DavePatron MSG #242, 10-06-2012 02:38 PM
      its looking like and awesome project, good luck to you



Will (william.lucke@gmail.com) MSG #243, 10-06-2012 05:02 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by engine man:

For those who would like more power Audi made an S8 32 valve 340 HP and they have a S8 40 valve 360 hp @ 7000 rpm mate that to the fwd 6 speed 01e transmission


Good luck finding those...


engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #244, 10-06-2012 08:40 PM
      the S8 40 valve isn't that hard to find just go to car-parts.com they are from about $1800 and up

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #245, 10-08-2012 07:56 AM
      I know 1 thing i am glad i picked this engine i have been watching some one put a LS engine in i don't know what he hasn't had to mod it looks like a pain in the a$$ . i might even put on a pair of turbos it looks like they will fit with out to much problem

[This message has been edited by engine man (edited 10-08-2012).]

Will (william.lucke@gmail.com) MSG #246, 10-08-2012 12:29 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by engine man:

the S8 40 valve isn't that hard to find just go to car-parts.com they are from about $1800 and up


Interesting again...


engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #247, 10-08-2012 02:14 PM
      link to car-parts .com search S8 engine in the USA for a 2003 http://www.car-part.com/

[This message has been edited by engine man (edited 10-08-2012).]

Will (william.lucke@gmail.com) MSG #248, 10-08-2012 02:40 PM
      I know how to use the site... just mildly surprised there were enough S8's imported that the prices are that low.

And it could be that they're reliable engines that never pop, which means prices are low because of low demand.

[This message has been edited by Will (edited 10-08-2012).]

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #249, 10-08-2012 02:59 PM
      yes i was surprised that they where so low priced for that engine also

picture of the 40 valve
its really not much to look at with the engine cover


engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #250, 10-10-2012 03:33 PM
      pictures are to try and show how much room i have for a pair of turbos i have a minimum of 9 inches between the back of the engine and the trunk . any 1 know what the outside diameter is of a Garrett GT25 300 HP model is ?



renderareason MSG #251, 10-10-2012 03:48 PM
      Are you talking about the GT2560R? If so it looks like it would be under 8 inches.

http://www.turbobygarrett.c...R_466541_1_4_new.pdf

My friend uses one of those on his 3.4L Camaro, definitely a good turbo!


engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #252, 10-10-2012 04:01 PM
      not sure but i have found these on ebay they say GT25 but i think there knock offs since i don't see Garrett on the add
http://www.ebay.com/itm/160...id=p3984.m1423.l2649


Will (william.lucke@gmail.com) MSG #253, 10-10-2012 04:32 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by engine man:

pictures are to try and show how much room i have for a pair of turbos i have a minimum of 9 inches between the back of the engine and the trunk . any 1 know what the outside diameter is of a Garrett GT25 300 HP model is ?
http://images.fieroforum.com/2012/SSCN1377.JPG
]http://images.fieroforum.co...SSCN1378.JPG


How much clearance do you have to the sides of the engine?

[This message has been edited by Will (edited 10-10-2012).]

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #254, 10-10-2012 09:49 PM
      Will at the strut towers there is about 3 inches per side then it opens up more when you go forward of them . it looks to be really roomy especially where the trunk starts to narrow i think i can get it all in the space between the trunk and the engine that includes a water to air intercooler

renderareason MSG #255, 10-11-2012 07:04 AM
      I’d be weary of those ebay turbos, they’ll work for a little while but with all the time and effort you will be putting in to installing them it hardly seems worth the risk. You may be better off with a name brand, maybe slightly used from a top seller. Ebay can be great for cheap intercoolers though, they may not be as good as some of the name brands but they have been proven useful in many applications.

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #256, 10-11-2012 04:33 PM
      OK now that i know what the Exhaust A/R does for the turbo should i go with a smaller a/r and use a big waste gate to git rid of to much exhaust back pressure and will that work or should i use a larger a/r and not as big a waste gate

seajai MSG #257, 10-11-2012 05:45 PM
      Check out: http://www.turbobygarrett.c...bygarrett/webadviser , just click on "get advice" on the bottom of the page. You plug in a few numbers and it will recommend a range to turbos and the compressor map for each one recommended.

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #258, 10-13-2012 04:06 PM
      thought i would show how the hub bearing looks on the knuckle and the axle angle with the knuckle and axle on the car . i need to get the hubs in a few weeks and drill them to the 5x100 lug nut pattern



ghost187x MSG #259, 10-13-2012 09:58 PM
      What are you doing for brakes? And why keep the 5x100 pattern?

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #260, 10-13-2012 10:40 PM
      just stock 88 brakes and why keep the 5 x 100 because i have wheels for it and it's not that hard to drill the new hubs for the 5 x 100

seajai MSG #261, 10-14-2012 08:22 AM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by engine man:



Does the axle hit the rear suspension mount at full extension? It looks pretty close.



engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #262, 10-14-2012 09:44 AM
      I don't have the strut on yet but i would say yes it will but the only time it should see full extension it is when on a lift you should not see any more then a few inches of suspension travel while driving but if i need to i can cut and weld the corner of the mount at an angel

[This message has been edited by engine man (edited 10-14-2012).]

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #263, 10-14-2012 01:16 PM
      I put the strut in and the axle hits when there is about 1 inch of travel left

Will (william.lucke@gmail.com) MSG #264, 10-14-2012 05:44 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by engine man:

thought i would show how the hub bearing looks on the knuckle and the axle angle with the knuckle and axle on the car . i need to get the hubs in a few weeks and drill them to the 5x100 lug nut pattern


There are VAG products that use the 5x100 pattern already (like the TT...). Can you use a hub from one of those cars so you don't have to redrill the Passit hub?



engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #265, 10-14-2012 06:51 PM
      Will i might be able to I just need to see what size bearing they use i am using a 82 mm bearing

355Fiero MSG #266, 10-21-2012 03:27 PM
      Wow, 5 days of no posting and this is already on page five.

A bump for updates if you have any.

Cheers
Don


engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #267, 10-21-2012 05:25 PM
      Been working trying to get more money for parts

IVANNATINKLE (seanmiller063@gmail.com) MSG #268, 10-23-2012 11:42 PM
      USAF. HUA! Great looking project I was planning something very similar but with the s4 twin turbo 6 and a tubular rear looks very good! I can't wait until its done

Hudini (hudini@tds.net) MSG #269, 10-24-2012 06:59 AM
      $255 is definitely not a Garrett. That said it's $255! Buy 4! Ha, ok, maybe not. I would suggest you run the BoostAdvisor program to find what your engine needs for the power level you want. It's so easy nowadays to find the numbers so you can select the proper size turbo. No need to guess anymore.

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #270, 10-24-2012 12:13 PM
      I have been on the Garrett site and the Ray hall turbo calculator site and have gotten some info for turbos but the project will be on hold for the winter unless i find some place to work on it as i only have the fair weather garage if you know what i mean

Will (william.lucke@gmail.com) MSG #271, 10-24-2012 01:09 PM
      Get it running non-turbo FIRST before you even think about turbo charging it.


IVANNATINKLE (seanmiller063@gmail.com) MSG #272, 11-04-2012 12:23 AM
      Great build maybe when I get some leave time I could check it out?

IVANNATINKLE (seanmiller063@gmail.com) MSG #273, 11-04-2012 12:33 AM
      Great build maybe when I get some leave time I could check it out?

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #274, 11-04-2012 12:48 PM
      IVANNATINKLE come on by but i work allot now with my new job


FieroJosh1993 (fierojosh1993@gmail.com) MSG #275, 11-04-2012 10:34 PM
      Awesome build man. Looks really sweet.

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #276, 11-05-2012 10:48 AM
      Thanks for the comment FieroJosh1993. well i see it is snowing out dam crap i want to get this car to be a roller but need to wait to next week to buy the parts so i forbid it to snow lol


Austrian Import (maximilian_ledworowski@csumb.edu) MSG #277, 11-12-2012 01:19 PM
      Any updates?

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #278, 11-13-2012 07:38 AM
      Nothing really to update i have ordered parts so i can finish putting the rear suspension together if the weather isn't to bad

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #279, 11-16-2012 12:32 PM
      well i got my hubs and the other hub bearing plus the toe link i needed now i have to have the hubs drilled to the 5 x 100 bolt pattern i am also waiting on a few bolts ordered through fastenall that will be in on Tuesday

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #280, 11-23-2012 03:51 PM
      I went out and worked on the car today and put the rear suspension back together now i just need to take care of the hubs and rotors





engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #281, 11-23-2012 03:52 PM
      oops dbl post

[This message has been edited by engine man (edited 11-23-2012).]

Will (william.lucke@gmail.com) MSG #282, 11-23-2012 08:06 PM
      Production VW hubs and rotors? Just need to install them?

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #283, 11-23-2012 09:28 PM
      VW has 2 bolt patterns 5 x 100 or 5 x 112 the 5 x 100 wont work with the 82 mm bearings i used and if i use the hubs as they are i will need to buy 2 wheels due to the 5 x 112 bolt pattern so i can buy wheels and rotors or i can have these modified

Xyster MSG #284, 11-23-2012 11:42 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by engine man:

Yes the LS engine would be a big challenge but it could be done if you used this transmission but it would be a lot of work and money as you need the special clutch set up for this transmission



Beautiful car and coming along nicely. BTW, what trans is this? How close is the bolt pattern to the GM Metric pattern? Thanks.
(sorry, I didn't see the info)


engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #285, 11-24-2012 12:05 AM
      it comes from a 2009 and up Audi not even sure if you can get 1 in the USA

Xyster MSG #286, 11-24-2012 12:14 AM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by engine man:

it comes from a 2009 and up Audi not even sure if you can get 1 in the USA


Model number? Power limitations?


engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #287, 11-24-2012 05:09 AM
      sorry don't know the model # as i dint really research it to much since i knew i wast going to use it

Will (william.lucke@gmail.com) MSG #288, 11-24-2012 09:20 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by engine man:




That transmission + a VW 4.0 W8 would be a sweeeet package for this: http://www.factoryfive.com/kits/project-818/

[This message has been edited by Will (edited 11-27-2012).]

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #289, 11-26-2012 11:42 AM
      well i will say that i cost my self about $600 doing the hubs and axles they way i did i should have just used the stock hubs and the passat and fiero axles and welded them together . if you look at a VW passat axle you will see that the 2 axle shaft ends are welded in a tube all i needed to do was cut 1 end off then make a bushing and slide the cut off fiero axle in to the right length and weld

IVANNATINKLE (seanmiller063@gmail.com) MSG #290, 11-26-2012 12:10 PM
      live and learn right?

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #291, 11-26-2012 11:57 PM
      yup that right live and learn

IVANNATINKLE (seanmiller063@gmail.com) MSG #292, 12-01-2012 05:31 PM
      I heard it was snowing back home but i figured I'd ask anyway Any updates?

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #293, 12-01-2012 09:11 PM
      no updates and it did snow but they say 58 on Tuesday

IVANNATINKLE (seanmiller063@gmail.com) MSG #294, 12-02-2012 03:21 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by engine man:

well i will say that i cost my self about $600 doing the hubs and axles they way i did i should have just used the stock hubs and the passat and fiero axles and welded them together . if you look at a VW passat axle you will see that the 2 axle shaft ends are welded in a tube all i needed to do was cut 1 end off then make a bushing and slide the cut off fiero axle in to the right length and weld


Now will this make it easier next time you need axels or just all around more expensive?


engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #295, 12-02-2012 05:38 PM
      i think the A8 axles are going to work for me the passat ones are about 2 inches to short and from what i can tell the A8 are just the right length

IVANNATINKLE (seanmiller063@gmail.com) MSG #296, 12-02-2012 08:13 PM
      you think the passat axles would be to small?.... dam

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #297, 12-02-2012 08:23 PM
      the passat axles are 2 inches to short i know for a fact due to i have some from when i bought my parts i got a pair of them

IVANNATINKLE (seanmiller063@gmail.com) MSG #298, 12-02-2012 08:28 PM
      **** . will the a8 fit the passat trans?

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #299, 12-15-2012 11:18 PM
      I would like to get back working on this car but the job dint last and i totaled my truck and just have been trying to recover from that i banged up my ribs pretty good

KaijuSenso MSG #300, 12-16-2012 11:59 AM
      I'm sorry to hear that man. Hopefully you get well soon and won't have to can the project after coming this far.

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #301, 12-16-2012 10:01 PM
      no caning it have to much into it so it is just on hold but i might finish it up as i need a car and I probably can finish this for what i can buy something for

[This message has been edited by engine man (edited 12-16-2012).]

IVANNATINKLE (seanmiller063@gmail.com) MSG #302, 01-06-2013 07:01 PM
      I know you got some snow but any updates?

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #303, 01-06-2013 07:41 PM
      no update we got about a foot in total and it has been below zero and right now money is really tight after crashing my truck and now lack of work i am just trying to keep my head above water

IVANNATINKLE (seanmiller063@gmail.com) MSG #304, 01-08-2013 01:14 AM
      Sorry to hear, good luck with everything, what type of work do you do? Was it winter layoffs? Any chance for unemployment?

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #305, 01-09-2013 08:03 AM
      I have owned a automotive machine shop so i know how to do that and i can do light construction i have a CDL A but no experience and a few other thing's but there just not much work out there seems like there are some part time jobs and care giver jobs but not much els and if there is 100 people show up to try and fill the 1 job

FieroWannaBe (patond@alumni.msoe.edu) MSG #306, 01-09-2013 11:06 AM
      Here is WI, many companies are looking to hire trained machinists and CNC operators. I've been to New Hampshire, and It seemed like there was a pretty good industry base. Surprised there isnt many openings. Have you tried contacting any job recruiters, it's no cost to you. I get calls from recruiters just about every week looking to fill engineering openings.

[This message has been edited by FieroWannaBe (edited 01-09-2013).]

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #307, 01-09-2013 06:38 PM
      yes i have but i don't have CNC training just Automotive Machining such as Boring Bar , Valve Jobs ,block resurfacing and such but no CNC unfortunately

FieroWannaBe (patond@alumni.msoe.edu) MSG #308, 01-09-2013 11:42 PM
      One is never too old to learn. The fact that you know how to do all that, and can find the letters on a keyboard is a good sign that you can write some simple g code and set up an operation.

IVANNATINKLE (seanmiller063@gmail.com) MSG #309, 01-10-2013 02:13 PM
      **** , I was going to say I used to work for 2 different company's up there doing construction but then again it's winter layoff time, however come spring if you still don't have any work there's a company mirra out of Georgetown ma that's always looking for CDL drivers ( you would have to labor a bit as well ) but the pay isn't the best but they have a lot of work

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #310, 01-10-2013 03:53 PM
      I just called a Community College to see about a CNC course but it said they need 10 people before they run the class i can only hope since it is the only school in the area that teaches CNC programing . oh ya the person i needed to talk to was not in

onesexyfiero (kevincdennis@gmail.com) MSG #311, 01-10-2013 05:41 PM
      I assume you've checked with Hypertherm?

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #312, 01-10-2013 06:24 PM
      ya i have tried to get into Hypertherm as i can walk to work from where i live

[This message has been edited by engine man (edited 01-10-2013).]

onesexyfiero (kevincdennis@gmail.com) MSG #313, 01-11-2013 12:53 PM
      Figured you had to be close in Enfield.

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #314, 01-11-2013 04:27 PM
      well i actualy live in lebanon now on the Etna rd same road as Hypertherm

[This message has been edited by engine man (edited 01-11-2013).]

onesexyfiero (kevincdennis@gmail.com) MSG #315, 01-11-2013 04:52 PM
      Ah, very close then. I live in VT, but my Fiero is stored and worked on at my parents place in Goshen, so I go right through Lebanon. I'd be curious to check out your project some time. Maybe spring time when I get my '88 out.

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #316, 01-11-2013 05:06 PM
      Ya i would love to show you what i am doing just not sure when i will be able to afford to finish it up i really need to get back to work i might end up flipping burger at Mc Donald's

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #317, 01-13-2013 10:14 AM
      well i have a engine to put together for a friend's sprint car so i will make a few buck's then i can get my hubs back so i can set it down on the wheels

onesexyfiero (kevincdennis@gmail.com) MSG #318, 01-14-2013 08:01 AM
      What about DHMC or Dartmouth college?

Will (william.lucke@gmail.com) MSG #319, 01-14-2013 10:24 AM
      I used to work for the VA office for this outfit: http://www.oasisalignment.com/

Can't say it's great work, but it's work. They like machinists because you already understand numbers, tolerancing, spatial relationships (prependicularity, parallelism), etc.


engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #320, 01-14-2013 08:32 PM
      I haven't seen much for either DHMC or Dartmouth College but both places are good places to work. thanks for the link Will but they are to far away

[This message has been edited by engine man (edited 01-14-2013).]

dratts (dratts2@gmail.com) MSG #321, 01-15-2013 06:02 AM
      I'm not surprised that an Audi ate your Fiero. Someone had to say it!

IVANNATINKLE (seanmiller063@gmail.com) MSG #322, 01-17-2013 09:36 AM
      I wish you the best of luck man

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #323, 01-17-2013 10:15 PM
      I just found a job to apply for it was on craigslist it pays between $15 & $18 a hour and is a job that i know i can do so wish me luck on getting it

wftb (danjesso@bmts.com) MSG #324, 01-18-2013 08:09 AM
      good luck to you, really like this thread .

Reallybig MSG #325, 01-19-2013 12:10 AM
      Wishing the best of luck to you.

IVANNATINKLE (seanmiller063@gmail.com) MSG #326, 01-19-2013 01:52 AM
      Good luck brother,

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #327, 03-03-2013 01:16 PM
      I haven't been on for a while now but the snow is starting to melt and i have started a sandwich Business all though i am not making a lot of money at it yet it looks promising

tesmith66 MSG #328, 03-03-2013 01:53 PM
      I'll take a turkey on rye. Got any chips?

Good luck!


engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #329, 03-05-2013 08:10 PM
      I have a Turkey & Swiss and Turkey & Stuffing foot long sub . Today was a good day i might have picked up a multi store account i need to Follow up on it in a few day to really talk them into how great my subs are .
I cant wait to get working on the car again the weather is warming up and that is making me get Fiero Fever


engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #330, 03-10-2013 09:07 PM
      well after doing some more digging i have found that a 58x wheel and a 60-2 ignition trigger wheel are the same they both have 58 teeth and a empty space where 2 more teeth would fit .Now that i know this i am wondering what GM ecu will work if the one from a LS engines with the 58 tooth would work and could the stock fuel & Ignition maps be used from my Audi ECU

[This message has been edited by engine man (edited 03-10-2013).]

diabloroadster MSG #331, 03-10-2013 10:08 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by engine man:

well after doing some more digging i have found that a 58x wheel and a 60-2 ignition trigger wheel are the same they both have 58 teeth and a empty space where 2 more teeth would fit .Now that i know this i am wondering what GM ecu will work if the one from a LS engines with the 58 tooth would work and could the stock fuel & Ignition maps be used from my Audi ECU



not sure if a factory ecu will work or not, it would depend on alot of other sensor's on your Audi engine, like what ohms your TPS reads and about 100 other things all working together so the GM ecu could read everything. I have been working on getting a Microsquirt to run on a 58x. Its been tough but Kemp3 help here on the forum and some other really smart people helping me out its getting there. On a megasquirt it can be done on the 58x easily. I have been following your thread so I know you have alot time invested on your wiring already and you have done a great job so far. I hate when people tell me "I should have done this or done that", but if you would have went with either Megasquirt/Microsquirt for engine management with your skill set- you would have been done already. If it were me I would be asking/searching of some Audi fourms to see its possible.... But good luck and keep up the great work!


engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #332, 03-11-2013 06:21 PM
      If i am going to spend the money for the megasquirt then i will buy a Vems it is about the same price as the megasquirt 3 that is needed to run the engine but the Vems will have a tune for the Audi engine and works with all the Audi sensors so it is probley best i just stay with the Vems ecu

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #333, 03-20-2013 08:18 PM
      Is the best way to do a harness with it completely off the engine

seajai MSG #334, 03-20-2013 11:09 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by engine man:

Is the best way to do a harness with it completely off the engine


Are you starting from scratch or modifying the factory Audi harness? I modified my engine harness on the bench to start but put it back on the engine to finish it up, but the Chrysler engine harness was routed through a couple plastic wire ways. I still mounted them to the bench to keep the spacing and orientation correct. I did the body harnesses on the car so I was sure to get the lengths correct. You may find it easier to do the harness on the car so you can plug in all components and work out wire lengths and routing. A piece of advice, invest in a big bag of zip ties and a zip tie tool. I used them to tie my wire bundles together as I routed them, this allowed me to keep things neat and its easy to change things if needed. After you are satisfied with things, you can wrap the harness in tape and remove the zip ties as you go. I recommend 3M "super 88" tape, it's good quality and has a high heat rating. By the time I was done building my harnesses, I had a big pile of spent zip ties.

[This message has been edited by seajai (edited 03-20-2013).]

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #335, 03-21-2013 02:49 PM
      I will be modding the Audi harness

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #336, 03-23-2013 04:15 PM
      Well i went on the United Kingdom ebay and have found the factory S8 ecu for a 1997 4.2 with standard transmission it looks like for around $200 since it is 179 euros then all i need is the immobilizer for another $150 and being a cheapskate i like these prices much better

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #337, 04-18-2013 10:10 PM
      I just keep trying to figure a cheap way to do the ecm for the engine not sure what ecm there using on a ls3 swap or a N* that has the 58 tooth trigger wheel or i could always use a converter like i talked about before that converts 58 tooth to 24x signal i just hate spending 7 to 8 hundred dollars i have a bin file from a 96 S8 euro for fuel and timing info

Will (william.lucke@gmail.com) MSG #338, 04-19-2013 09:10 AM
      Aren't there places that tune Audi ECU's?

Snag the S8 unit and have a tuner drop the standard 4.2 timing, fueling, injector, limiter, etc. data into it.

Or go snag an S8 engine


engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #339, 04-19-2013 03:45 PM
      they do play with the motronic me7 but no one is doing the m5.4 motronic that come stock with the ABZ engine and the only choice is the 034 motor sporst chip at $550 but you still need the immobilizer at $150 so you end up with $700 into it and for like $90 more i can do a Vems stand alone . the only thing that might work is the ME7 if 1998 had that and a 32 Valve engine not sure how a 40 valve engine ecu would work with my 32 valve engine i will go ask over at NetMoto

diabloroadster MSG #340, 04-20-2013 07:44 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by engine man:

I just keep trying to figure a cheap way to do the ecm for the engine not sure what ecm there using on a ls3 swap or a N* that has the 58 tooth trigger wheel or i could always use a converter like i talked about before that converts 58 tooth to 24x signal i just hate spending 7 to 8 hundred dollars i have a bin file from a 96 S8 euro for fuel and timing info


Im using Microsquirt on my 58x LS4, its only $330.00. Super easy to setup, its batch fire but it works really well. You could step up to a MS3 and get alot more, Kemp3 here on the forum is the man to talk with. Tuning is super easy with Tunerstudio and the autotune feature, no credits to deal with, real time tuning, the list goes on and on. But the best feature is the Shadow dash- http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X7JOLBSakIk

The Shadow Dash is just kick ass, so much you can do with it...

For the money, personaly I dont think there is a better stand alone engine mangement out there.




engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #341, 04-20-2013 08:59 PM
      sounds good can you tell me what MS it is 1 or 2 did you buy it in kit form

diabloroadster MSG #342, 04-20-2013 10:10 PM
      The Microsquirt controller itself comes assembled, although you do need to add some resistors either inside the case or in your harness. EFI Source (they make the Microsquirt) sells on Ebay- http://www.ebay.com/itm/Meg...em19d4f7b265&vxp=mtr

Or on their website- http://efisource.com/

The basic version of Tunerstudio is free to download and play with- http://tunerstudio.com/ however to get Autotune, ShadowDash, ect, is a addition fee but still very affordable.

If your on a budjet the Microsquirt will get the job done very well, but to get things like sequential injection, IAC stepper control, more outputs, ect MS3 is the way to go.

You might want to try to do a search here- http://msextra.com/forums/index.php for Audi and see what comes up, chances are there is someone who has done it before.


engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #343, 04-20-2013 11:01 PM
      so you used the microsquirt did you need a ignition drive that they sell and did you use the coil on plug i am sure glad you said what you used since i was under the impression that i would have to use the ms3 extra

diabloroadster MSG #344, 04-21-2013 01:50 AM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by engine man:

so you used the microsquirt did you need a ignition drive that they sell and did you use the coil on plug i am sure glad you said what you used since i was under the impression that i would have to use the ms3 extra


No driver needed, and yes I used coil on plug. I just harvested the connectors off the factory wiring harness and soldered them to the 3' Microsquirt harness. You only need crank position, TPS, map, iat, and temp senders for it to work. No cam signal is needed, really pretty easy. You can check out this thread although its on a 24x 5.3, it basicly the same as the 58x and should give you a basic idea on what all is envoled-
http://ls1tech.com/forums/f...y-mechanics-how.html
You may be able to find someone who has a startup tune that will get you started and then you can tune if not-
You will just need to find out what the crank trigger offset (degrees) and few other ignition characteristics, your injector data, ect, and your up and running. And with something like a AEM UEGO wideband and autotune in Tunerstudio and you can get pretty close, then you can do some data logging and really do some final tuning. If you have a pretty good skill set when it comes to fuel injection (I didnt) it should be a breeze, if not there are alot of good people on the MS forums that either help you or point you in the right direction.

I have been really interested in your project ever since you started, hope you can make some progress soon!
Here is a pic of my LS4 in my Lambo Diablo kit-

[This message has been edited by diabloroadster (edited 04-21-2013).]

dratts (dratts2@gmail.com) MSG #345, 04-21-2013 10:54 AM
      I see that you opted for an alternative to the ls4 engine cover. I have an ls3 cover on mine and an ls7 cover for the times that i really want to lie about my engine. I am planning on modifying my ls3 cover so that people won't be as confused. You have a really clean ls4 install.

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #346, 04-21-2013 02:35 PM
      Thanks for the great info I have a stock bin file but i cant read it only will show up in hex but if i could read it it would help me have a starting point as far as the tune go's. i will have to take the engine out and take all the wiring off and do the wiring harness and change a few other things hopefully i can have it all together by the end of August just gotta get some cash together doing some engine projects for my Friend i am building him a sprint car engine right now

diabloroadster MSG #347, 04-21-2013 07:06 PM
      You should get in contact with this guy who is building some kind of Zonda thing, he has alot experience with Audi V8's and Megasquirts and such-
http://www.madmechanics.com...ca-kitcar-build.html

Last I heard he had some engine trouble and was thinking about going to another engine platform. He "might" have a Megasquirt or some other type of engine mangment for the Audi V8 to sell or atleast he can give you alot of info. Either way you can read through his build (really long) although he first started with a V12 if I remember correctly, he had a Audi V8 (maybe turbo?) at one time....


engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #348, 04-23-2013 07:44 PM
      Did the microsquirt com ready to run the coils in wasted spark or did you mod it with resistors

diabloroadster MSG #349, 04-23-2013 10:05 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by engine man:

Did the microsquirt com ready to run the coils in wasted spark or did you mod it with resistors


I had to add resistors. That is what kicked my butt for 3 weeks, I purchased some 1k ohm and 4.7k ohm resistors at a local computer store thhat sells them loose out of these little bins. I couldnt get my motor to start up, tried everything I could think of. I emailed everyone I could find, but since no one had done a 58x before I was kinda on my own but I did end up getting alot of good help. I ended up removing the resistors and sending the Microsquirt back to the supplier to have the unit checked out. At this point I didnt even know if it was possible for it to work on a 58x LS engine.

The supplier told me everything was fine with the unit and sent it back to me. I decided to give it one more try. I went back to the same computer store and purchased some more resitors. When I was checking out the sales guy asked me if I want to check to make sure those were the correct resistors... "what ???" The sales guy said that sometimes employees/customers/kids/ect put the resistors in the wrong bins. Sure enough I got the wrong resistors the first time around. I got the correct resistors in and it fired right up.....

[This message has been edited by diabloroadster (edited 04-23-2013).]

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #350, 04-23-2013 10:24 PM
      do you know what type of crank sensor the LS that you have uses if it is Hal or VR

diabloroadster MSG #351, 04-24-2013 06:36 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by engine man:

do you know what type of crank sensor the LS that you have uses if it is Hal or VR


If I remember correctly mine is VR.



engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #352, 04-24-2013 07:03 PM
      Thanks diabloroadster for the help now i just need to get some money together to buy a microsquirt


engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #353, 04-27-2013 06:22 PM
      man it is getting nice out and i am getting th feaver to get working on this so time to put some things on ebay to get some money

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #354, 04-28-2013 01:44 PM
      Well i listed my new 4.3 MPI marine intake on ebay and it is just about enough to pay for a microsquirt so if it sell i will be buying the micro squirt

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #355, 05-02-2013 11:05 PM
      just sold that intake now i am closer to buying the microsquirt just a little more and i can get that and wire this up and get it to start then that will pump me up to get the rest all done

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #356, 05-03-2013 09:54 PM
      I wish the car was ready then i would be living life in the fun lane check out the hill climb video this is done about 20 miles away from where i live http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Szi-JfRrJAc

IVANNATINKLE (seanmiller063@gmail.com) MSG #357, 05-19-2013 12:02 PM
      hows this car going?

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #358, 05-19-2013 12:12 PM
      well right now i am working allot to make money to work on it but i will get back to it soon thanks for asking

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #359, 05-20-2013 01:33 PM
      I bought a Boxster shifter that will work with the Boxster shift cables it is worth not having to fab some thing like that so i know it will work right

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #360, 05-25-2013 12:03 AM
      the Boxster shifter came today works great except it need a bushing that go's in the selector cable end

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #361, 05-26-2013 12:53 AM
      well had the day off but it is 50 out and rain so dint even look at it but i hope to do a few things this week to it

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #362, 05-26-2013 11:50 AM
      well i just was sent a basic tune for a megasquirt 2 so now i have to get a unit to get this going

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #363, 05-28-2013 05:00 PM
      I think i am going to build a MS2 since the used ones on ebay keep getting bid higher than the kit you can buy

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #364, 05-29-2013 01:08 PM
      I think i might have the boat sold to a friend so i will have most of what i need to finish up thank god it is a friend buying the boat because i am giving it away at $500 the olds 455 is worth that

Will (william.lucke@gmail.com) MSG #365, 05-30-2013 09:12 AM
      Your friend going to reciprocate?
I never understood "selling" valuable things to friends at scrap prices.


engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #366, 05-30-2013 06:47 PM
      oh well my choice not a good one but i want to get the fiero going more than i want to go out with the jet boat

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #367, 05-30-2013 07:21 PM
      Boxster Shifter that i bought and new Cable end my cable end was missing the Teflon bushing



engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #368, 06-01-2013 09:00 PM
      well i worked on the boat to sell for funds now i just gotta get my friend to come by and pay up

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #369, 06-08-2013 05:04 PM
      boat is now sold so i will be buying i ms2 or a microsquirt not sure what 1 but it will be bought this next week

northeastfiero (carlgill@hotmail.com) MSG #370, 06-08-2013 05:18 PM
      I have a megasquirt 2 extra, going to run it as wasted spark on the v12 in my Fiero. There is a lot of good help and advice on the forum if you need any.



engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #371, 06-08-2013 06:29 PM
      are you batch firing the injectors

northeastfiero (carlgill@hotmail.com) MSG #372, 06-09-2013 04:57 AM
      It will be run using wasted spark with dual edis it will run bank a the bank b 60 degrees after. I would like to think I will have the engine running later this year, just concentrating on getting the mechanicals donefor now.

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #373, 06-11-2013 08:31 PM
      megasquirt 2 kit ordered now just will need to do solder it together and wire it up then tune

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #374, 06-12-2013 07:41 PM
      I pulled the soldering gun out to put the negasquirt 2 together i feel i can do this just take my time soldering

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #375, 06-14-2013 06:07 PM
      Sunshine wow maybe i can do a bit of work to the car like hooking the cooling system up

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #376, 06-15-2013 04:12 PM
      Megasquirt 2 kit came today in the mail now to put it all together i will read the manual a few times first yikes what have i done

MarkS (mshucks2@earthlink.net) MSG #377, 06-16-2013 05:50 AM
      Checked out the MegaSquirt website. Looks like you have to assemble the PCB yourself. Its a good idea to use the 25w pencil soldering iron as they suggest to assemble the PCB. A few posts up you mention a soldering gun. Too hot for PCB work. Easy to damage the components by overheating with a gun. Take your time and it should be fine.

BR's,

Mark



engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #378, 06-16-2013 10:23 AM
      thanks for the heads up i will get a 25 watt as my gun is 75 watt so it would be to hot so back to Radio Shack

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #379, 06-18-2013 10:37 PM
      I got started on the megasquirt today soldered in the 40 pin socket and both connectors 1 for the wiring harness and the other for the PC

IVANNATINKLE (seanmiller063@gmail.com) MSG #380, 06-20-2013 06:17 PM
      That's awesome I'm glad it worked well! I'm still thinking of building one using a passat trans and s4 twin turbo v6 but $$$ and I bought a 69 olds with a 455 that needs work instead of a fiero because of the back seat.

Will (william.lucke@gmail.com) MSG #381, 06-20-2013 10:11 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by engine man:

I got started on the megasquirt today soldered in the 40 pin socket and both connectors 1 for the wiring harness and the other for the PC


Doing soldering right takes time. Take the necessary time and don't shortchange your future self.


engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #382, 06-21-2013 05:42 PM
      yes it is best to do when you are relaxed and not in a hurry or tired so Sunday morning will be the next time i work on it

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #383, 07-02-2013 05:52 PM
      worked on soldering my megasquirt together today it is coming along fine but it is slow going i am planing on doing More latter tonight and if it rains tomorrow i will do even more and maybe finish it up. I also picked up a 86 SE but that is staying stock

IVANNATINKLE (seanmiller063@gmail.com) MSG #384, 07-10-2013 06:12 AM
     
 
quote
[B]Originally posted by engine man:[

I also picked up a 86 SE but that is staying stock



Famous last words....

Glad to hear its coming along well


TheKingOfBattle MSG #385, 07-10-2013 12:52 PM
      Very cool build. My wife and I both drive v-dubs as our daily drivers, so the thought has crossed my mind to stuff some VAG engine in my Formula. Nice to see someone actually doing it.

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #386, 07-10-2013 05:09 PM
      you don't think the 86 will stay stock lol i have been thinking about the same type of swap but with a LS engine and using a Boxster 6 speed

[This message has been edited by engine man (edited 07-10-2013).]

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #387, 07-14-2013 11:40 AM
      Darn it i wanted to show some pics of where i am on the MS2 but my camera is not working and i am at a point where i need the simulator to check what i have done is right

[This message has been edited by engine man (edited 07-15-2013).]

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #388, 07-16-2013 08:33 PM
     


engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #389, 07-18-2013 06:57 PM
      well i did more soldering and i am past step 51 and put in the VR ignition circuit and i plan doing more tonight i would like to finish it up but i need to figure a few ignition things out for the COP with wasted spark like if i use 12V pull down or 5V not really sure on all of that but i will get it all figured out

carbon MSG #390, 07-19-2013 08:16 AM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by engine man:

Pics of awesomeness...


Looks familiar.


engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #391, 07-19-2013 11:34 PM
      i can say that building the MS2 is fun for me because i am learning something new

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #392, 07-20-2013 09:34 PM
      I am using the stock Bosch 0 227 100 211 ignition module so it takes 5V it works by grounding and ungrounded the coils so it is nothing but a switch or should i say 4 switches in 1 module you hook the coils up in pairs to it on the in side you have 5 wires 1 is a ground and the others are the trigger wire on the out side of it are the coil neg wires

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #393, 07-27-2013 09:19 PM
      From what i am understanding i need to make this circuit on my MS2 to control the stock Bosch ignition modules


nitroheadz28 MSG #394, 07-27-2013 09:26 PM
      ^ Heh the diagram reminds me of the program I used to design circuits in my electrical principles and electronic packaging classes in college. Keep plugging away at it

diabloroadster MSG #395, 07-27-2013 10:27 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by engine man:

From what i am understanding i need to make this circuit on my MS2 to control the stock Bosch ignition modules


This is something you sould be asking on msextra...... I wish I could offer you some help but Im only limited to LS engines.


engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #396, 07-27-2013 11:25 PM
      from what i have read this is what i need it has to be a 0-5v logic circuit and this is what makes the right signal

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #397, 07-29-2013 10:52 PM
      Yaaa All done Except the Ignition out circuit that i need to make and i hope to do that tomorrow night



Will (william.lucke@gmail.com) MSG #398, 07-30-2013 04:45 PM
      Rockin' and Rollin'

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #399, 07-30-2013 06:26 PM
      I will finish up tonight with the 4 ignition out to run my module then am hoping to start wiring the car up Saturday

carbon MSG #400, 07-31-2013 09:09 AM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by engine man:

Yaaa All done Except the Ignition out circuit that i need to make and i hope to do that tomorrow night



Wow, should have read the thread... I was no help at all, sorry about that. But yeah, to directly control the 3500 coil pack it's the same deal, except I don't need 'Spark D'.

 
quote
Originally posted by diabloroadster:
This is something you sould be asking on msextra...


Definitely! Such a great and time sucking resource...
MegaSquirt MSEXTRA / MS3EFI Forums
MegaSquirt Forums

[This message has been edited by carbon (edited 07-31-2013).]

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #401, 07-31-2013 04:43 PM
      man some one stole my laptop last night out of my car so I have been doing password change

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #402, 07-31-2013 08:02 PM
      I have completed the megasquirt now I just need to test it and load its firmware but I haven't a computer to do the things I need to do

carbon MSG #403, 08-01-2013 08:24 AM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by engine man:

man some one stole my laptop last night out of my car so I have been doing password change

I have completed the megasquirt now I just need to test it and load its firmware but I haven't a computer to do the things I need to do


Sorry man! That sucks!


engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #404, 08-02-2013 09:08 PM
      man this sucks having to wait to use a computer

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #405, 08-08-2013 07:19 PM
      I dint get to work on the car last Saturday due to being called into work to cover for some one but I will try to work on it this Saturday

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #406, 08-18-2013 11:13 PM
      well i repaird a old laptop my dad had put in a new hard drive and i got a stimulator for my megasquirt to test it and this morning i built it in 2 hours and i think i am going to see about selling some megasquirts on ebay so i will buy another MS2 kit

Will (william.lucke@gmail.com) MSG #407, 08-19-2013 02:47 PM
      The 6.0 W12 from a Phaeton W12 makes 420 HP. The version from the A8 is dry sumped and makes 450 HP. It fits anywhere the 4.2 fits.

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #408, 08-20-2013 12:06 AM
      well i am messing with tunerstudio but it said no conection so i think i will need the USB to DB9 conector they say to use instead of the one i picked up at radio shack

Will (william.lucke@gmail.com) MSG #409, 08-20-2013 11:54 AM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by engine man:
the one i picked up at radio shack


Yeah, that's your problem


engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #410, 08-20-2013 05:21 PM
      I really don't see that it will make any difference but the DIY site said theirs works with tuner studio what the hell do i know i know nothing when it comes to electronics

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #411, 08-24-2013 08:15 PM
      i got the new cable and power supply it all works now just took me a few minutes on how to do the boot load but it looks all good

Kemp3 (jckemp3@sonic.net) MSG #412, 08-24-2013 11:58 PM
      I am using MS3+MS3x on my LS4 , megasquirt has made some huge leaps . I believe the MS3pro does as much if not more than most oem ecu's now. I am sure you will be quite happy and tuning is real easy .

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #413, 08-25-2013 10:50 PM
      i am sure i will be happy with it and i feel this shows every one that that they can do about anything i mean if i can build a ECU you can to

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #414, 08-29-2013 04:10 PM
      I have loaded the bin file that i got from a guy and he has the AFR at 14.8 and from what i understood thats great for fuel economy but 12.1 is best for power is this still true or is the new gasoline that has ethanol changed all that

carbon MSG #415, 08-29-2013 04:27 PM
      You need even more for ethanol... 14.7 is stoichiometric for 100% gas.



code:

E85 stoichiometric 9.765
E85 max power rich 6.975
E85 max power lean 8.468

[This message has been edited by carbon (edited 08-29-2013).]

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #416, 08-29-2013 05:44 PM
      I have MS Tuner Studio lite is it worth buying the full version as i see they have a live ve tuning where you turn that on while you are driving and it is supposed to optimize the fuel tune from what i have read . this is there link http://www.tunerstudio.com/...studio/tunerstudioms

diabloroadster MSG #417, 08-29-2013 08:51 PM
      yes get the upgrade! Its worth it....

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #418, 08-29-2013 09:10 PM
      ok i will do

Will (william.lucke@gmail.com) MSG #419, 08-29-2013 09:31 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by engine man:

I have loaded the bin file that i got from a guy and he has the AFR at 14.8 and from what i understood thats great for fuel economy but 12.1 is best for power is this still true or is the new gasoline that has ethanol changed all that


 
quote
Originally posted by carbon:

You need even more for ethanol... 14.7 is stoichiometric for 100% gas.




I think he meant E10 Ethanol... IE, pump gas.


engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #420, 08-30-2013 10:59 PM
      After doing some reading i know where i was getting the 12:1 ratio it is for forced induction i must have read that when i had my jet boat with the blown small block and i do wonder how much the ethanol in the gas effects it . I read that 14:7 is best for power but it cuts engine life do to you are right on the edge of burning it up but at about 13:5 for NA engine is safe and shouldnt cost you much HP. I forgot to mention all the tunning that i am familar with is old school looking at the spark plugs

[This message has been edited by engine man (edited 08-30-2013).]

Kemp3 (jckemp3@sonic.net) MSG #421, 08-31-2013 02:04 AM
      I am not sure if I understand , if your cruising in a light load scenario you can run as lean as your engine allows. When you start to get lean miss fires that's too lean. At WOT and full load you want to run at least 13:1 I set my AFR table to 12.75 for a mild safety factor.

Have you set up your AFR table ? If so then let "VE analyze now" do its thing and slowly work up to WOT runs.


Will (william.lucke@gmail.com) MSG #422, 08-31-2013 09:22 AM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by engine man:

After doing some reading i know where i was getting the 12:1 ratio it is for forced induction i must have read that when i had my jet boat with the blown small block and i do wonder how much the ethanol in the gas effects it . I read that 14:7 is best for power but it cuts engine life do to you are right on the edge of burning it up but at about 13:5 for NA engine is safe and shouldnt cost you much HP. I forgot to mention all the tunning that i am familar with is old school looking at the spark plugs



14.7:1 is stoichiometric. It is *NOT* best for power. It is best for operating catlysts.
If you don't need cats, forget 14.7.

As mentioned above... at idle and light load, go as lean as you can without misfiring. You'll need to smoothly move the AFR down to between 12.5:1 and 13:1 at WOT.


engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #423, 08-31-2013 10:58 AM
      intresting so 12.5:1 to 13:1 will make best power this is good to learn the newer ways of tunning since i am use to tuning a carb by looking at plugs for a nice clean light tan and i must move ahead and learn modern engine management

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #424, 09-04-2013 11:16 PM
      ok I am looking to start some wiring so can any one tell me what wire is what on the 2 ecm plugs for a 88 gt I figure that way I can have the megasquirt right where the stock unit was or tell me how you wired it up to your engine to give me a better idea

Reallybig MSG #425, 09-05-2013 01:55 AM
      I assume you are looking for the wires that supply things like the fiero tach, speedo, brake switch, +12DC, grounds, fused engine circuits etc. While I'm no expert, there are two great pages in this 4.9 wiring thread by rockcrawl; http://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum2/HTML/098096.html . You want the C500 fiero connector in the engine bay passenger side, and the C203 fiero connector under the ECM. Both are on the thread first page and will provide valuable info to integrate your megasquirt to the fiero wiring. I hope this helps...I have been looking forward to seeing this project run! If you got any progress pics, please post them. I'd love to see how things are going.

chetw77cruiser MSG #426, 09-05-2013 11:06 AM
      Something like these?






engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #427, 09-05-2013 12:18 PM
      no i was not looking for the c500 or c203 but the actual plugs that plug into the ECM and it looks like chetw77cruiser has that so thanks guys

Will (william.lucke@gmail.com) MSG #428, 09-05-2013 12:18 PM
      Something like, yes, but not those. Those are for the ECM connectors. He'll need the C203 and C500 pinouts to wire up the engine bay harness to work with the MS3 and interface correctly with the Fiero body.

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #429, 09-05-2013 03:52 PM
      pleas explain why i cant cut the 2 plugs off and wire them to the MS2 plug and then conect them to the apporopit wires on the engine by splicing them to gether

chetw77cruiser MSG #430, 09-05-2013 04:23 PM
      http://www.gmtuners.com/fil...203_C500_pinouts.pdf

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #431, 09-06-2013 12:06 AM
      thanks guys i should be able to do the wiring with all the info you gave me

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #432, 09-12-2013 08:56 PM
      I bought some wire from DIY tune for the wring harness so i hope to start on it this weekend and i still need to do 1 more mode to the megasquirt 2 so i have a knock sensor

Will (william.lucke@gmail.com) MSG #433, 09-12-2013 11:05 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by engine man:

pleas explain why i cant cut the 2 plugs off and wire them to the MS2 plug and then conect them to the apporopit wires on the engine by splicing them to gether


I was assuming you were starting with the Audi wiring harness...


engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #434, 09-13-2013 12:09 AM
      i am doing the plug that go's to the ms2 that way all i have to do is splice wires in to the wiring harness if it is nice tommorow i will work on getting rid oe all the audi wiring i dont need but i feel i can splice it all together the way i want

[This message has been edited by engine man (edited 09-13-2013).]

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #435, 09-13-2013 08:46 PM
      rain rain go away because i would like to try starting the engine by the end of next week

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #436, 09-14-2013 01:12 PM
      I got my wire and I sat down this morning and made up my DB 37 plug for the ms 2 but I have to go into work soon so that's it for today I will do more tomorrow

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #437, 09-18-2013 12:14 PM
      I have been hard at work on the wiring harness and i have it to where i have the old ecm plugs cut off snd the new megasquirt 2 plug wired on and now i just need to slpce it to the audi harness and i will be done with that then i need to hookup colling and fuel to start it up

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #438, 09-19-2013 11:15 PM
      Wow did i have a brain fart i just need to splice the Audi conector ends on to the harness now not graft in the whole Audi harness

[This message has been edited by engine man (edited 09-19-2013).]

Will (william.lucke@gmail.com) MSG #439, 09-24-2013 10:34 AM
      I was wondering what you were thinking...

You should use the Fiero harness for power, grounds and signals to the body (temp gauge, tach, fuel pump relay, A/C comp relay, many others)
You should use the Audi harness for the signals and controls to/from the engine
Graft it all together at the MS unit.

Pay careful attention to routing, as it's much easier to route the harness neatly now than it is to re-work it later.

[This message has been edited by Will (edited 09-24-2013).]

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #440, 09-24-2013 07:19 PM
      ya i need to get back on it as there is not much left to do on the harness but i have been helping out with my dad and mom as he had a hart attack friday and she has alzhiemers so she cant be alone. He is fine now but he has 4 stents and still needs a little help with thing

wftb (danjesso@bmts.com) MSG #441, 09-24-2013 10:42 PM
      hope everything is alright with your folks .have been following your thread since it started and have enjoyed it .with regards to learning about tuning , the HP tuners forum has all kinds of threads on setting up the different charts that run a modern computer controlled engine .it is a lot of free info , no matter what system you are using .

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #442, 09-24-2013 11:16 PM
      I am back taking care of my Mom since he had some pains tonight and went back in the hospital and not sure if he will be back tonight

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #443, 09-29-2013 08:52 PM
      not much going on just working and taking care of My Mom and waiting for Dad to get well enough to come home from the hospital

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #444, 10-03-2013 11:32 PM
      I should be back working on the harness this weekend as my Dad is back home but weak so we need to give him some help and i need to work on my 86 SE that i am driving but then back on this harness i figure a few days worth of work left on it

[This message has been edited by engine man (edited 10-06-2013).]

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #445, 10-11-2013 11:35 PM
      ok I am a bit confused as i have the Audi wiring schematics but i dont see where it is telling me what is a ground, signal or what if one of you can sheed a light this is the link http://www.corradov8.com/pi...204.2V8%20Wiring.pdf

[This message has been edited by engine man (edited 10-12-2013).]

Marvin McInnis MSG #446, 10-12-2013 12:21 AM
      Hints:

"Earth" = Ground (-)
"Positive (+)" = Positive (+) supply voltage ... careful, may be +12 volts or +5 volts

[This message has been edited by Marvin McInnis (edited 10-12-2013).]

RCR (rcrabine@comcast.net) MSG #447, 10-12-2013 08:03 AM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by engine man:

ok I am a bit confused as i have the Audi wiring schematics but i dont see where it is teelong me is a wire is a ground, signal or what if one of you can sheed a light this is the link http://www.corradov8.com/pi...204.2V8%20Wiring.pdf


Really, it's not. The schematic is showing where the different wire colors are going. For example, on the first page:

Injector 1 (N30) pin 1 white wire (ws) ties to E25 (Connection (87a, right inlet valve), in Motronic wiring harness)
Pin 2 black/pink (sw/ro) ties to J220 (Motec control unit) pin E1.

Bob


engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #448, 10-12-2013 12:24 PM
      yes it shows where they go on the ecu but what i need to know is on the throttle postion sensor what one is ground and wht 1 is signal and what 1 is the 5v referance as far as i can see it only shows what wires go to the tps but not what each one is but this could be i just dont understand it

[This message has been edited by engine man (edited 10-12-2013).]

RCR (rcrabine@comcast.net) MSG #449, 10-12-2013 02:13 PM
      I see your dilemma...

It looks like the wiper is pin 3. The rest would be a best guess for me...
blk/wht appears to be the positive line.
blk/brn appears to be the ground side.

But, that's just a logical guess...

Any chance to power it and see which is the reference signal?

Bob


bmwguru (bmwguru@optonline.net) MSG #450, 10-12-2013 02:51 PM
      It is a track style wiring diagram. Do a google search on how to read track style wiring diagrams and you'll find it much easier. In short, all wiring colors are the same for all models in the same genre for their specific circuits. All grounds are brown and not black. You are missing a lot of needed info. When I wired up my VR6 and TDI Fieros, I had to get the power and ground charts, powertrain management, auto trans, and starting and charging to find all the needed wiring. Audi/VW normally doesn't have a pcm pinout chart.
Once you become familiar with this style, you will find them very easy to read and understand.

Dave



engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #451, 10-12-2013 03:51 PM
      Thanks bmwguru i knew i would get saved by one of you and thanks to every one who has helped

[This message has been edited by engine man (edited 10-12-2013).]

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #452, 10-15-2013 08:25 PM
      Wow i final did a bit of work on the ignition i got all the coils paired up for wated spark 1&6 5&3 4&7 8&2 now i just need to solder them to spark out put's A,B,C&D

[This message has been edited by engine man (edited 10-15-2013).]

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #453, 10-16-2013 11:28 PM
      i got a chance today to do some more work on the harness so i did some splicing soldering of the igition out put now the coils should be set i allso did the MAT sensor i hope i dont get called in tomorrow on my day off so i can do more

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #454, 10-19-2013 12:52 PM
      not to much left to solder what needs doing is Crank Postion Sensor,Temp Sensor,Knock Sensor & Idle Valve

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #455, 10-21-2013 08:11 PM
      well if it is a decent day tomorow i will install the harness and finsh the soldering and maybe by the weekend i can start the engine

ConvictedRedneck (backwoodsfiero@hotmail.com) MSG #456, 10-22-2013 05:27 PM
     

Your thread looked lonely, I'm still following!



engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #457, 10-22-2013 07:22 PM
      went out and put the harness in the car today and hooked some of it up and did some untangling

carbon MSG #458, 10-24-2013 04:00 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by ConvictedRedneck:



Your thread looked lonely, I'm still following!



Me too!


engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #459, 10-25-2013 09:46 PM
      Harness is in the car now but it needs neatend up and i need to get a GM oil sender for it i allso need to do a second o2 for it and get the knock sensor parts

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #460, 10-26-2013 05:25 PM
      I have a ? do you think the O2 would work in the center of a H pipe

seajai MSG #461, 10-26-2013 08:14 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by engine man:

I have a ? do you think the O2 would work in the center of a H pipe



The O2 needs to be close to the engine so it gets hot enough and needs to have enough exhaust flow past it to read accurately. You'd be better off putting it in the manifold.


Marvin McInnis MSG #462, 10-27-2013 01:37 AM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by engine man:

... do you think the O2 would work in the center of a H pipe



No. It needs to be as close to the exhaust manifolds as possible.


engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #463, 10-27-2013 02:47 PM
      my other thought is to use this crossover pipe this would make it so i only need 1 O2 and it will be close enough to the manifolds pluse i will be using a heated O2



engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #464, 10-29-2013 07:00 PM
      Dam it has turned cold out i had plenty of time but the funds are slow well i will have to wait for spring to get working on it agian

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #465, 11-12-2013 07:07 PM
      a few pic's 1 of the Porsche shifter the other of the wiring that needs to be neatened up



engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #466, 11-25-2013 10:57 PM
      Winter is already to long for me this sucks

Reallybig MSG #467, 11-26-2013 01:35 AM
      Hang in there Engine Man! You've come too far to let a little cold weather get you down! I keep watching your thread eagerly waiting for the video clip of the engine firing up for the first time.... I'm sure it will be glorious!

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #468, 11-26-2013 07:40 PM
      Grrrrrrrrrrrrrrr dam it now the 2000 Grand Am i am driving the ignition key wont turn in . Thanks for the support i need it now more than ever

[This message has been edited by engine man (edited 11-26-2013).]

carbon MSG #469, 11-27-2013 11:52 AM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by engine man:

Grrrrrrrrrrrrrrr dam it now the 2000 Grand Am i am driving the ignition key wont turn in . Thanks for the support i need it now more than ever



Those F'ing things... I have an 03 and the ignition switches are pure crap. Your key won't even turn though?


engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #470, 11-28-2013 02:06 PM
      my steering wheel is not locking and the key wont turn i am not sure what is up with that

[This message has been edited by engine man (edited 11-28-2013).]

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #471, 12-29-2013 07:21 PM
      well just sitting and watching it snow out thinking well i only have about 3 more months before i can start working on the car again and i should be able to have enough money to finish her up this spring so i can drive it and have some fun

[This message has been edited by engine man (edited 12-29-2013).]

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #472, 01-14-2014 06:27 PM
      just got my W2 for taxes now i just need to do my taxes so i can take my return money and finish this install

[This message has been edited by engine man (edited 01-14-2014).]

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #473, 01-23-2014 04:33 PM
      i cant wait to get started back on the car just waiting for my tax return but th IRS doesnt even start accepting them before Jan 31

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #474, 02-13-2014 08:14 PM
      I bought a few things for the car

i also got nufflers but the pic is to big fo the image poster


engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #475, 02-14-2014 05:29 PM
      Looks like i need to do some shovling to get the car out after a foot and a half of snow last night and another half a foot expected for tomorrow

motoracer838 (jmartin@musicunveiled.com) MSG #476, 02-15-2014 10:34 AM
      There are times when it's best to just stay inside.

Joe



engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #477, 02-15-2014 12:25 PM
      Well winter will be all over soon and i will be able to finish it up

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #478, 03-01-2014 09:47 AM
      Well it is still freezing out but i have good news i might be opening a Garage in about three weeks i will do simple repairs at first

Reallybig MSG #479, 03-01-2014 03:26 PM
      Wishing you the best of luck with the garage!

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #480, 03-04-2014 05:59 PM
      Thanks we are meeting on thursday to work out the details and i should be open by march 31

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #481, 03-08-2014 09:23 PM
      April 1 i will be open and i will start working on the car i wont have much spare money but there are many things that dont need any money

[This message has been edited by engine man (edited 03-08-2014).]

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #482, 03-20-2014 06:33 PM
      All i can say is let it snow let it snow let it snow it seems winter is never going to end and even though in about a week i will be opening the garage i will need to wait for the snow melt to get the car out but it keeps snowing

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #483, 03-30-2014 02:19 PM
      Well if the snow melts soon i will drage th car over to th new shop . I am opening up on tuesday April Fools day i just hope i am not the fool but i think it will be allright but it will just take some time .

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #484, 04-13-2014 04:41 PM
      I have moved the fiero over to the new shop so I can start working on it

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #485, 04-13-2014 09:29 PM
      I see V8 Archi is retiring if it weren't for guys like him I wouldn't have dreamed of doing this build thanks Archii for helping us dream

TommyRocker (tommyrocker88@gmail.com) MSG #486, 04-13-2014 10:55 PM
      Get to it!

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #487, 04-20-2014 08:38 PM
      Ok finaly i am going to get back to working on this since i am closed on monday and dont have any work to catchup on so i can bring it into the shop tomorrow. my plan is to work on getting the cooling system hooked up and the clutch hooked up and work on the wiring i think i can get most of it done if not all done then all i need to finnish is axle spacers and exhaust and i dont have the money for that but i will still be able to start the engine .

[This message has been edited by engine man (edited 04-20-2014).]

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #488, 04-25-2014 08:58 PM
      I have been working on neatning up the wiring and it is coming along good but the alternator I bought for it on eBay is not right so it didn't fit

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #489, 04-25-2014 09:00 PM
      I have been working on neatning up the wiring and it is coming along good but the alternator I bought for it on eBay is not right so it didn't fit

ttt123 (briandocherty@hotmail.com) MSG #490, 04-29-2014 01:04 PM
     

you might have mentioned it but whats the difference between this engine and a sbc in regards to length?


Will (william.lucke@gmail.com) MSG #491, 04-29-2014 03:41 PM
      Audi has 91mm (3.583") bore center vs. Chevy's 4.400... the Audi engine is VERY short

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #492, 04-29-2014 07:25 PM
      If I remember right a SBC is about 25 inches from front of the damper to the back of the block and the Audi is 21 inches

ttt123 (briandocherty@hotmail.com) MSG #493, 04-29-2014 08:21 PM
      thanks for the input guys.

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #494, 05-05-2014 08:13 PM
      I have gone about as far as i can go with out spending more money but right now that is not a option due to the cost of opening a new shop but it is well worth it i realy like working on cars ! thought i would post a pic of my old jet boat it had a destroked 400 sbc down to 377 it had a B&M Mega Blower it made 600 + HP


engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #495, 05-09-2014 08:42 PM
      Today it was slow so I worked on the car streightning out the wiring it is looking better I also hooked up the fuel lines if I knew how to post a pic from my android tablet I woul

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #496, 05-11-2014 05:49 PM
      A few new photos of the wiring and how it is going


Hmmmm where did they all go ? it looks alot better but i till need to finish the wiring up

[This message has been edited by engine man (edited 05-11-2014).]

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #497, 05-25-2014 11:45 PM
      gona work o the car monday check out sme wiring things i would like to try starting it but i am not sure what the trigger tooth angle needs to be set at on the measquirt 2 and i need to pull the engine one last tim to check that and put a new serpintine belt tenstioner on but dont have yet . i feel that soon i will have the money to finish as the new shop comes to life things seem to keep geting better every week more and more customers are coming in so i hope to have video soon of it running

ttt123 (briandocherty@hotmail.com) MSG #498, 05-26-2014 07:18 AM
     

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #499, 05-29-2014 07:12 PM
      I think Monday I am going to pull the engine and pull that belt damper and see if I can match it up with our buying it from Audi do to they want from $141 and up for a gas strut

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #500, 06-07-2014 07:53 PM
      hi I have worked on the car I've got the shifter and I'm still a little bit leery on spending money but my business is picking up so I would expect that I will be putting things together soon also found out that I can put Linux on my android which will allow me to run ms studio then I will be able to tune with my smart phone

[This message has been edited by engine man (edited 06-07-2014).]

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #501, 06-10-2014 06:18 PM
      I don't dare to spend to much money right now so I have been working on the axles it seems the axle from a 2000 Passat right front is the right length for the left side so for the right side I will cut and sleeve and weld a axle for the right side and I am going to order a new clutch slave so got to go and order that up

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #502, 06-16-2014 05:39 PM
      I worked on seeing how long an axle I needed for the right side by cutting an old axle in half then taking some angle iron to lengthen it and it ended up as a 24 1/2 axle compressed so a stock 2000 Passat right front axle should work . I heard from the owner of the building Wally that he had some one from Grafton tell him about me building this car he thought his name was Ryan so if you come by Ryan I would love to see your Fiero and show you what is going on with mine and maybe you can give me some ideas . if the clutch slave came in today then I will put that on unless I get some customers tomorrow

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #503, 06-21-2014 06:41 PM
      I have the clutch hooked up and working and freed up the belt tensioner so that is working and found the right belt length I just need a good alternator . I have some good news and that is the State is finally coming to test me so I can get my inspection license so I can inspect cars and trucks this is a big deal as it isn't just the money from the inspection but if the car or truck needs repair they usually have you do it this alone should more than double my work

Will (william.lucke@gmail.com) MSG #504, 06-23-2014 07:36 AM
      Good luck!

Pics!


engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #505, 06-23-2014 08:14 PM
      Great news I passed the inspection test and I just need to update the headlight aimer and get Mitchell pro or prove I can access all the technical data I need for inspections .
Thanks Will


engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #506, 06-29-2014 01:18 PM
      I have a friend trying to put Ubuntu on my tablet for me then I will put wine on it so I can run any windows program this is going to be nice for doing many thing even tuning the engine I also use it for some live diagnostics on cars with the torque pro program

Tony Kania MSG #507, 06-29-2014 01:36 PM
      Just a cool build. I often read the new posts. Just letting you know updates are awesome.

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #508, 06-29-2014 07:30 PM
      I need to get the alternator and MS tuner studio pro so I can get the crank trigger in sync then I could at least start it even though I don't have it all done. I will try to get some pics of what I have done and post them tomorrow is a day off sort of so i will bring the camera to the shop and snap a few pics

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #509, 07-16-2014 10:35 PM
      haven't worked on the car due to not having the money for it but i have taken an old project out and worked on it it is the turbohydromtic 425 with a flipped thm325 differential i have pulled the thm 425 apart and put in a new output shaft that fit the 325 diff and found a few hang ups but i see how to fix them and within the next year i should be able to have a strong automatic transmission that puts the weight in front of the rear axle and can take big V8 power

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #510, 07-20-2014 05:31 PM
      thought i would post a few new pics showing the new boxster shifter and axle angle i am planing on working on what ever i can tomorrow that cost nothing and 1 pic of the thm 425 with the new output shaft that needs a few mods





engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #511, 07-21-2014 08:11 PM
      a few more pics from under the car as i did a few things today




this wheel is made by axis they a og san and are 17 x 8 and i wish i had some

[This message has been edited by engine man (edited 07-24-2014).]

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #512, 08-02-2014 05:47 PM
      I just ordered i Alternator for this things are coming along slow but i am moving ahead just not as fast as i would like but at least i am making progress i need to get MS Tunnerstudieo working with Linux Mint then i need to upgrade to pro . i still need a 88 oil pressure switch and i need to make the knock sensor circuit and build an exhaust plus a right hand axle and braces on the engine cradle

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #513, 08-07-2014 09:20 PM
      well I have a good alternator now but I have had to much going on so far this week to work on it but that is a good thing since it means the shop is starting to get going and the key was getting the state inspection station license this next Monday I am planning on working on it .

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #514, 08-11-2014 07:30 PM
      I worked on the car today and i just need the Exhaust , O2 sensor , throttle cable , coolant temp gauge sender , Knock sensor .right axle , speedometer & Brakes . My Friend showed me how to use Tuner stodio on Linux Mint

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #515, 08-13-2014 09:35 PM
      I have found that 66 degrees is the #1 tooth angle for the trigger wheel i am trying to confirm this for a stock 1997 Audi 4.2 V8

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #516, 08-14-2014 08:14 PM
      i just ordered some of what i need to hook a knock sensor up and a heated o2

Will (william.lucke@gmail.com) MSG #517, 08-16-2014 04:22 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by engine man:

I have found that 66 degrees is the #1 tooth angle for the trigger wheel i am trying to confirm this for a stock 1997 Audi 4.2 V8


That sounds like good info to have.


engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #518, 08-16-2014 07:23 PM
      Yes Will it is good info to know so i am going to double check by counting the teeth backward from tdc to tooth #1 it is a 60 tooth wheel minus 2 teeth so each tooth is 6 degrees so it should be 11 teeth back to the missing teeth

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #519, 08-17-2014 09:36 PM
      cross your fingers i going to count the teeth from TDC back to the 2 missing teeth then i am going to test fire the engine without the O2 and knock sensor I will post video of it running if it runs

[This message has been edited by engine man (edited 08-17-2014).]

fierogtlt1 (fierogtlt1@bellsouth.net) MSG #520, 08-17-2014 11:09 PM
      I have loved this build from the beginning......Such a fantastic engineered job.Should be moved to the "Construction Zone".

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #521, 08-18-2014 04:49 PM
      I tried to get it to run but no go the fuel pump is not working but i did find out that the crank trigger was working & TPS was working due to we calibrated it i will get the bugs worked out and started ' Oh ya i counted the teeth and it was 21 so that is 138 degrees bbtdc

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #522, 08-18-2014 06:40 PM
      i am going to take #1 spark plug out and make positive that i have top dead center with the stop method by rotating the crank one way until it hits the stop inserted in the spark plug hole and put a mark on the damper then rotate it back the other way and do the same thing then put a mark half way between the 2 marks and that tdc

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #523, 08-19-2014 07:47 PM
      i had a hour to kill this morning so i played with the car and got it to fire but not run i know it has a fuel leak as there was gas on the floor of the shop but i think the timing is off maybe Friday i will have some time

[This message has been edited by engine man (edited 08-19-2014).]

Kemp3 (jckemp3@sonic.net) MSG #524, 08-19-2014 11:25 PM
      I think you tooth #1 angle is 126, in reality it is based on if your rising or falling edge. So you can be anything from 120-132 with the info I have . if the motor fires just make sure you verify timing. I hope you have some timing marks

just to make sure this is the process you used to find #1 angle ? http://www.msextra.com/doc/ms3/trigger-wheel.html


engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #525, 08-20-2014 11:36 AM
      thanks for the info , i do have timing marks but i still want to make sure due to the damper could have slipped . I need to find the fuel leak to so it builds fuel pressure but i will get it all sorted out

[This message has been edited by engine man (edited 08-20-2014).]

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #526, 08-22-2014 09:49 PM
      I couldn't find a piston stop so i can find TDC #1 so i will make one out of a spark plug

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #527, 08-23-2014 01:58 PM
      ok i checked it out and it is 132 BTDC and it now runs but only on 6 cylinders due to 2 coils are broken at the plug boot but it still runs i will get video of it if i can get it to run long enough for me to get out of the car . right now i am letting the battery charge so i will give it another try just before i close shop today.

[This message has been edited by engine man (edited 08-23-2014).]

KaijuSenso MSG #528, 08-23-2014 03:14 PM
      Excellent! Can't wait to hear it run on all 8.

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #529, 08-23-2014 05:25 PM
      video of it running on 6 cylinders https://www.youtube.com/wat...-2Q&feature=youtu.be the sound sucks but i am so happy to get it running

Kemp3 (jckemp3@sonic.net) MSG #530, 08-23-2014 06:37 PM
      congrats on the first fire!

did you ever get a Cyl #1 TDC mark ? if not that should be high on your list of things to do. you need to verify tooth #1 angle is correct.

what are you using for idle control ? GM IAC or a PWM valve ?

congrats


engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #531, 08-23-2014 06:47 PM
      yes i did find tdc and i did get the #1 tooth angle by counting the teeth from tdc back to the #1 tooth it was 20 teeth total counting #1 so 20 x 6 degrees for each tooth that give a 132 degree tooth angle. it is not GM IAC and i dont think it is pwm

[This message has been edited by engine man (edited 08-23-2014).]

Kemp3 (jckemp3@sonic.net) MSG #532, 08-23-2014 10:24 PM
      is it a 3 or 4 wire IAC ? if so I am sure the MS3 can control it either way. Just have to see how it responds in test mode.

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #533, 08-23-2014 10:41 PM
      Kemp3 this is what it is
Idle air control valve: 2 wire variable voltage to a motor, loaded against a spring


engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #534, 08-24-2014 07:52 PM
      Kemp3 have you used VE Analyzer live in TunerStudio if so how well did it work for you

Kemp3 (jckemp3@sonic.net) MSG #535, 08-26-2014 01:15 AM
      VE analyzer works great , a few variables have to be accurate in settings though. Make sure you have the proper settings for your WB O2 so TS reads it accurately and that is was calibrated correctly if its not pre-calibrated. Know that insanely rich or missing reads lean. ( When I say insanely I mean barely running because your fouling plugs rich)

Your IAC sounds like a PWM controlled one. check out ms3efi.com documentation on your controller to see how wire it and set it up in TS.

keep it up




Brendo907 (brendenfarr@gmail.com) MSG #536, 08-26-2014 06:41 AM
      I just had glanced at this and somone mentioned using alldata for wire schematics, most of the time your public library has a subscription to it or something like it. Yea that place with all the books and free wifi, they sometimes have cool stuff

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #537, 08-26-2014 03:28 PM
      can i use a NB O2 or must it be a WB 02 for tunning and if WB 02 is the only thing i can us then where is the wring diagram for a 5 wire WB O2 as i am having a hard time finding that info ?

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #538, 08-26-2014 09:10 PM
      well i found the info i need about wideban O2 i will need a controller for it so i will need to save some more $$$$$$$$$$$$$

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #539, 08-27-2014 09:51 AM
      i just got the other axle it is for the right side it fit perfect and is a stock passat right front 24 5/8 compressed now i just need some more socket head bolts for it and a axle bolt

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #540, 08-27-2014 07:55 PM
      ordered Axle bolt , exhaust parts i am hoping to have it on the road next week

ericjon262 MSG #541, 08-27-2014 09:35 PM
      which wideband are you going with?

Kemp3 (jckemp3@sonic.net) MSG #542, 08-27-2014 11:32 PM
      I recommend the wide-band from www.14point7.com

http://www.14point7.com/pro...partan-lambda-sensor

they are out of stock till the 31st of this month, if I recall they are about 90$ they have a built in controller and are pre-calibrated.


engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #543, 08-28-2014 06:19 PM
      thanks Kemp3 i will get 1 from them as soon as i can afford it that shouldn't be long

ericjon262 MSG #544, 08-28-2014 08:26 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by Kemp3:

I recommend the wide-band from www.14point7.com

http://www.14point7.com/pro...partan-lambda-sensor

they are out of stock till the 31st of this month, if I recall they are about 90$ they have a built in controller and are pre-calibrated.


I've heard good things about them, I was actually going to suggest them.


Kemp3 (jckemp3@sonic.net) MSG #545, 08-28-2014 09:51 PM
      I have had them for almost a year now and I have no complaints. I run 2 one for each bank, if you have the luxury of setting it up that way in the long run its a huge benefit in regards to the EGO control.

deadwood (blackhills@gmail.com) MSG #546, 08-28-2014 10:10 PM
      Why can't I unsubscribe to this thread? Arghh!

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #547, 08-29-2014 11:28 AM
      deadwood if it is in your personal favorites then click on that then click on the box next to this thread then remove

[This message has been edited by engine man (edited 08-29-2014).]

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #548, 08-29-2014 06:49 PM
      i see i need to adjust the shift linkage

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #549, 08-30-2014 02:03 PM
      Ok i got the shifting linkage repaired just needed a bracket to be spaced down so i took it out in the field out back and played around with it it is not running all the great due to the lack of th O2 sensor but at least it runs now and i am having allot of fun playing around with it .

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #550, 08-31-2014 04:52 PM
      I have been trying to find info on the coolant temp sensor and ait sensor i need how many ohms of resistance for a specific temperature

[This message has been edited by engine man (edited 08-31-2014).]

Kemp3 (jckemp3@sonic.net) MSG #551, 08-31-2014 07:45 PM
      I bet the sensors can be replaced with GM sensors. I use a GM 3 wire for CLT temp, feeds the gauge and your MS. I also use a GM AIT sensor as far away from the engine as possible in my intake tube. If you want to stick to the Audi sensors you should try some Audi forums for the info, or check ms3efi forums .

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #552, 08-31-2014 08:06 PM
      i can use the ait from GM but the coolant sensor is not a screw in but i do need to do something to run the gauge . on the 3 wire clt what is the wiring 1 ground 1 to gauge and the last to megasquirt ?

[This message has been edited by engine man (edited 08-31-2014).]

ericjon262 MSG #553, 08-31-2014 11:15 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by engine man:

i can use the ait from GM but the coolant sensor is not a screw in but i do need to do something to run the gauge . on the 3 wire clt what is the wiring 1 ground 1 to gauge and the last to megasquirt ?



2 wires to the MS(one should be +5 volts), one to the gage. the sensor is grounded through the body.

[This message has been edited by ericjon262 (edited 08-31-2014).]

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #554, 09-01-2014 09:18 PM
      Kemp3 are you using VR or Hall crank sensor i have vr and am starting to think i should have gone with hall

Kemp3 (jckemp3@sonic.net) MSG #555, 09-03-2014 01:01 AM
      GM Hall, crank and cam sensors.

http://www.msextra.com/doc/...tion.html#vrv357pull

make sure you have the jumpers all placed correctly and that your trim pots are adjusted . use the above link to verify .


engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #556, 09-03-2014 07:06 PM
      ya every thing is right i just was having a bit of trouble getting adjusted but part of the problem i was zoomed in on the Tunerstodio data logger . but the worst thing is i have found Water in the oil so i need to get that checked out where it came from so i will start with the leak down test on all the cylinders. i can say it ist not much water but i hate to see any

Will (william.lucke@gmail.com) MSG #557, 09-03-2014 09:09 PM
      Water or coolant?

Water can accumulate in any engine that sits with its PCV open and will evaporate off once the engine hits operating temp... coolant is obviously another story

[This message has been edited by Will (edited 09-03-2014).]

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #558, 09-04-2014 07:49 PM
      today i found something strange the #1 plug hole was about half full of water and i have no clue where that came from. just to clear thing up i mean the spark plug hole down through the valve cover not the plu hole that the spark plug screws into as the plug was in that

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #559, 09-06-2014 03:11 PM
      well i pressurized the cooling system and it held 13 psi for over 1 hour so i don't think there is a problem i must have just got some water in the oil from some where else

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #560, 09-07-2014 12:23 PM
      i all so needed a fuel pump so i ordered 1 340lph @40 psi so enough to feed about 700 hp . i have the exhaust pipes so i should be able to get that all together after hours at work. I am not sure how loud it is going to be with the Pypes M80

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #561, 09-08-2014 06:55 PM
      darn i wish i had the new fuel pump i just want to start the car again i think it will run a whole lot better with the right fuel pressure i really want to take it out on the road . tomorrow i will do the exhaust if i have some free time

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #562, 09-09-2014 07:12 PM
     


fieroguru MSG #563, 09-09-2014 09:30 PM
      Looks cool but that X pipe wasn't designed to have the exhaust gasses cross each other going the opposite direction.

They are for the exhaust to flow in the same direction and allow a small amount to cross over between the two sides.

With the way yours is plumbed both banks will collide and be forced through the small hole between the two sides... certainly not good for flow.


engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #564, 09-10-2014 12:35 PM
      I agree it wont flow as good as having them go in 1 end and out the other but i am trying to save space and i plan to put a turbo on it for more power so that will be gone and replaced with a Y pipe but this should be fine for the stock 300 HP i think

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #565, 09-10-2014 12:48 PM
      i just took some measurement of the center where it crosses and it is 4 1/2 x 2 1/4 i don't know how much flow will go through that i hope it is enough

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #566, 09-10-2014 04:43 PM
      just a word of advice if you have to chose between hall or vr crank sensor pick hall from what i am reading it works better at slow rpm there are no pots to adjust and it either works or it dose not

[This message has been edited by engine man (edited 09-10-2014).]

thesameguy (justin@slashpub.net) MSG #567, 09-10-2014 05:27 PM
      I have a VR/DIS system on my '62 Falcon with a stock inline six, and it doesn't have any problems idling at 500rpm. I can't imagine VR sensors having any sort of issue on a modern engine.

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #568, 09-10-2014 06:15 PM
      I don't know what i am doing wrong but it seems to lose signal ijust cant seem to adjust it right on the megasquirt you put a crank trigger on and running megasquirt

thesameguy (justin@slashpub.net) MSG #569, 09-10-2014 06:43 PM
      The air gap is critical as is the relative height/depth of the trigger wheel teeth. You also need to account for things around the trigger wheel that could compromise the signal and the wiring to the VR sensor needs to be reasonably shielded - you can't just run two wires to it and call it good. My trigger wheel was made by a guy in Texas (Miller's Mule machine shop) who makes a lot of trigger wheels, and I used salvaged wiring from a Taurus to ensure it was adequately shielded. It's been running for about a year and a half flawlessly and even with a 1bbl carb and a terribly unbalanced (factory) intake manifold, it's rock-solid.

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #570, 09-10-2014 07:43 PM
      you are right you need to do all that for the vr sensor and a hall sensor air gap is not as critical and noise is not a issue you don't have pots to adjust

Will (william.lucke@gmail.com) MSG #571, 09-11-2014 02:19 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by engine man:

I agree it wont flow as good as having them go in 1 end and out the other but i am trying to save space and i plan to put a turbo on it for more power so that will be gone and replaced with a Y pipe but this should be fine for the stock 300 HP i think


I'm curious about why you think that, because it won't.
Saving space isn't an excuse... I built my X-pipe the right way with a Northstar and didn't cut my trunk.


dobey MSG #572, 09-11-2014 02:50 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by Will:
I'm curious about why you think that, because it won't.
Saving space isn't an excuse... I built my X-pipe the right way with a Northstar and didn't cut my trunk.


Heck, a longitudinal Audi V8 in a Fiero is like the perfect thing to just run true duals with, if you want to save space. I'd just go with duals to get it running, and if it really needs a crossover later or a single turbo, worry about it then.


engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #573, 09-11-2014 03:04 PM
      true duals would be fine but i would need to put dual O2 in and like i said i want to turbo it next summer and this is just to get it running plus i suck at welding so building a x pipe would look really bad

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #574, 09-11-2014 09:49 PM
      hall crank sensor ordered

Will (william.lucke@gmail.com) MSG #575, 09-12-2014 09:26 AM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by engine man:

true duals would be fine but i would need to put dual O2 in and like i said i want to turbo it next summer and this is just to get it running plus i suck at welding so building a x pipe would look really bad


Excuses, excuses. That exhaust configuration is terrible and it will REALLY hurt performance (and fuel economy). MS only has one O2 sensor input?

Get some of these and build a decent setup:



http://secure.chassisshop.com/partlist/6206/

They have mild steel also if you get sticker shock from the stainless.

Donuts are the CHEAPEST way to get 1D bends.

If you're not confident in your welding, just tack it together and take it to a shop for finish welding.

[This message has been edited by Will (edited 09-12-2014).]

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #576, 09-12-2014 07:17 PM
      excuses or not it is what i have for now

Kemp3 (jckemp3@sonic.net) MSG #577, 09-13-2014 12:49 AM
      engine man you need to look closely at your datalogs, do you see any little spikes in intake air temp ? or coolant temp ? you need to zoom in all the way and look for the odd tiny jumps . Another good place to look is TPS , TPS dot and RPM dot, if you have any spikes then you have noise and need to check your grounds. Make sure you dont have any high current grounds bundled with sensor grounds, everything your describing with your VR sensor sounds like noise.

best of luck


engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #578, 09-13-2014 01:38 PM
      I think the air gap is the problem but since i am putting it in a stock location there isn't any adjustment in the transmission and the transmission never was matted to this engine so there the problem lies i feel . i have rewired the Megasquirt for the hall sensor so it will be all good and i am sure the VR senso works great when set up with the right air gap . i will check all my grounds thanks for the tip

[This message has been edited by engine man (edited 09-13-2014).]

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #579, 09-14-2014 02:57 PM
      Megasquirt has been reconfigured and checked for the Hall sensor now i just need the sensor and it should show up by mid week

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #580, 09-16-2014 06:08 PM
      Well Will you shamed me into making the exhaust right so i am going to use that x pipe but it will be turned 90 degrees with the exhaust flowing like it should through it i think i am going to end up with a different muffler but i will never get the trunk back due to the transmission running through it.

Will (william.lucke@gmail.com) MSG #581, 09-16-2014 08:34 PM
      I figured that the fact that you could do better would creep up on you

I recognize that you can't put the trunk back because of the trans... my point in mentioning the trunk was to say that creative packaging can put a lot of stuff into an unexpectedly small space.


engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #582, 09-16-2014 09:12 PM
      ya some times we all need a good kick in the back side to do better so thanks for giving me a kick


Will (william.lucke@gmail.com) MSG #583, 09-16-2014 10:10 PM
      My pleasure

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #584, 09-17-2014 07:36 PM
      Ok a look at the new better way the exhaust is being laid out i will need to buy a walker Dynomax X flow muffler oh no comments on the bad welding




[This message has been edited by engine man (edited 09-17-2014).]

Will (william.lucke@gmail.com) MSG #585, 09-18-2014 11:52 AM
      Looks WAAAAAY better than what you had before!

With the O2 sensor in that position, you'll emphasis the left bank AFR over the right bank... The sensor is still exposed to gas from both banks, but it sees the left more than the right. I don't know if or how much this will affect your tuning.

Did you have to cant it over like that to clear the new trunk floor?


dobey MSG #586, 09-18-2014 12:30 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by Will:
Looks WAAAAAY better than what you had before!

With the O2 sensor in that position, you'll emphasis the left bank AFR over the right bank... The sensor is still exposed to gas from both banks, but it sees the left more than the right. I don't know if or how much this will affect your tuning.

Did you have to cant it over like that to clear the new trunk floor?


Agreed.

Or can you not just run two O2 sensors with the ECM you're using?


Will (william.lucke@gmail.com) MSG #587, 09-18-2014 05:15 PM
      Good use of flex couplings. Be sure to use a flexible hanger to support the exhaust behind the X-pipe.

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #588, 09-18-2014 06:44 PM
      thanks guys , from what i have read they want the O2 at an angel with the tip facing down but i have seen them straight up in down i need to make a need to put the new crank position sensor in but i need to make a 1/4 inch spacer then wire it up and put the new fuel pump in and try starting it . the tip of the O2 is closer to the center than it looks

[This message has been edited by engine man (edited 09-18-2014).]

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #589, 09-22-2014 06:26 PM
      Well i worked on the car and got the ignition working better it is not dropping signal but i do need to change the fuel pump to get it running i have a new pump but just haven't had much time and i need to rebuild the diff on my DD so that will happen tomorrow after work

2.5 MSG #590, 09-23-2014 08:40 AM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by engine man:
CLICK FOR FULL SIZE



Lookin much better

[This message has been edited by 2.5 (edited 09-23-2014).]

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #591, 09-23-2014 07:56 PM
      today i played with the car and found i have 2 plugs firing good 4 weak and 2 nothing at all it is cop and switching coils around changes nothing not sure if the ignition modules are bad or need to do some work on the MS ecu

[This message has been edited by engine man (edited 09-23-2014).]

Will (william.lucke@gmail.com) MSG #592, 09-24-2014 11:36 AM
      If your plugs are new, and each coil that's not firing in the bad pot fires well in the good pot, that sounds like a problem with your trigger or supply wiring to the coil. It could also be your MS settings or wiring.

Are they smart coils? (IE, built in coil drivers?)


engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #593, 09-24-2014 02:53 PM
      I got it to run i had to make some changes to the set up info like going high inverted but it still #1 is not firing and i am not sure if the cylinder that is paired up with it is firing but i now have good spark on at least 6 cylinders and it is running allot better than the first time i ran it

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #594, 09-24-2014 08:59 PM
      well i think i found the last problem so it should run on all 8 tomorrow . i found that 1 of the ignition channels went bad a transistor went but it looks better now it is blinking all the lights on the test board like they should be

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #595, 09-25-2014 09:17 AM
      Ok so i came to the shop plugged the megasquirt in and that same light on the front stops blinking so i unplug it and test it with my test board it test all right so i unplug the ignition modules they are warmer than i think they should be and i plug the ecu back in and crank to see what happens and all the lights blink so there is something wrong with the modules nut what i dont know is if the trigger's from the ECU have to much voltage and burned them up or did it just fail

Kemp3 (jckemp3@sonic.net) MSG #596, 09-25-2014 08:49 PM
      call DIYautotune and talk to Matt or Ben they can help

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #597, 09-25-2014 09:22 PM
      I have emailed matt and he ask how i have the board wired and i sent a email back telling him Logic level ignition output but i just looked at the info and it is looking like i need to rewire the megasquirt and use some 680 ohm resistors so i will do that tomorrow night i should have just come off R 26,27,29 & JS11 and put a 680 ohm resistor on each

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #598, 09-26-2014 07:02 PM
      Matt said i should wire my megasquirt VAG i dont know exactly what he is talking about but this is how i did it


engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #599, 09-27-2014 06:22 PM
      well i started the car with 1 of the new ignition modules that 1 seemed fine but the other got really hot i mean burn your hand in less than a minute of running time so i will change that one out then i think i will back down the dwell time to 3.2 milla seconds

[This message has been edited by engine man (edited 09-27-2014).]

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #600, 09-28-2014 01:46 PM
      I am not sure what to think right now i bought 2 new ignition modules i plug them in car wont start i replace just 1 of them with a old module car starts and runs but after a short time the old module over heats and car runs bad and stalls

Will (william.lucke@gmail.com) MSG #601, 09-28-2014 07:57 PM
      You're not running a 5V module on 12V are you?

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #602, 09-28-2014 08:22 PM
      i don't think it would be 12 v due to the proto area that the resistors are hooked to is 5 v as seen in the wiring schematics i posted but what i think could be all wrong

[This message has been edited by engine man (edited 09-28-2014).]

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #603, 09-28-2014 08:33 PM
      if I cant do it with these modules i will redo the megasquirt with BIP 373 modules but i am not to that point yet

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #604, 09-29-2014 04:24 PM
      i am going to try 1 more set of new ignition modules they are not made by Bosch but are supposed to be direct replacement for the Bosch 0 227 100 211 Ignition Module


Will (william.lucke@gmail.com) MSG #605, 09-30-2014 10:59 AM
      Do you have the original Audi wiring diagrams?

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #606, 09-30-2014 06:26 PM
      I had them not sure if i still have them

Will (william.lucke@gmail.com) MSG #607, 09-30-2014 07:47 PM
      It's going to be tough for anyone to guess what you did wrong if we don't know what it's supposed to look like when it's done right...

The modules are separate from the coils, right? One for each bank?

In asking about 12V vs. 5V, I wasn't referring to your MS. The whole point of an igniter/module is that it's a high current driver to charge the coil... having it separate gets the high current (and resulting heat load) out of the ECM. That means that the modules need a power source in addition to the signal from the ECM. I just wanted to verify that they aren't weird and aren't designed for 5V power instead of 12V power.

Is your signal polarity correct? Are you running 90% duty cycle when you think you're running 10%?

Because the modules are getting hot, that means they're moving more current than they're supposed to... which could be an error of supply voltage, or an error of dwell/duty cycle...
You're using the modules with the coils they were originally designed to drive, right?


engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #608, 09-30-2014 08:02 PM
      ok what i do know is the output side of the module are stock what i mean it is how it was wired from Audi the coils are wired as they come from Audi and on the input side i know the brown wire that is a ground as i made sure i looked at that in the schematics and the only thing left are the input signal wires 4 per module so i know i have that right now what i don't know is how long to turn on each channel and if there should be a resistor to each channel and the signal should be 5V out to the modules from what i am looking at on the megasquirt

[This message has been edited by engine man (edited 09-30-2014).]

Will (william.lucke@gmail.com) MSG #609, 10-01-2014 04:58 PM
      Any way of finding out what the original Audi dwell is?

How does the polarity of your signal compare to the polarity of the original?

If the original signal is normaly grounded, then a pulse to +5V for the dwell period, while the new signal is +5V all the time with a drop to ground for the dwell period... not only will timing be off, but the modules will heat up.

[This message has been edited by Will (edited 10-01-2014).]

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #610, 10-01-2014 06:38 PM
      i think i am going to redo the megasquirt like it is hooked to the bip373 mosfet so i know that the signal is power on then power off and i will set the dwell to 3 ms for starters i picked up some 680 ohm resistors so i can do it tomorrow

[This message has been edited by engine man (edited 10-01-2014).]

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #611, 10-01-2014 09:29 PM
      Will after looking closer at the schematic for the way i did my ignition outputs on the megasquirt it is looking like there is 5V most of the time so i need to change that but if some one who knows electronics could chime in and tell me witch way will give me a on off signal

[This message has been edited by engine man (edited 10-01-2014).]

Will (william.lucke@gmail.com) MSG #612, 10-02-2014 11:28 AM
      You have the V3.0 board, right?

For the left ends of R26, R27 & R29 above (and the JS11 signal)... are those outputs normally +5V or normally grounded?

Get your DVM out and measure what the voltage on the wires actually is... Most cheap DVM's nowadays can even measure frequency and duty cycle, which would be immensely helpful to you for troubleshooting this.


engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #613, 10-02-2014 07:14 PM
      yes i have the V3 board and i changed it to the way they have it coming off J11,r26,r27 & r29 with resistors and now the Bosch module does not get hot like it was but i cant seem to run 2 of the new modules for what reason i dont know but it wont start with 2 of the new modules not sure if i need less dwell under the dwell while cranking but it seems all 8 are runing when i get it started . i need to work on getting it to idle then i must check the timing not sure how i am going to do that with cop as there aren't any plug wires . at least i am gaining ground on it and it has a nice exhaust note i think

Will (william.lucke@gmail.com) MSG #614, 10-02-2014 07:41 PM
      It'll start with old modules but not new ones?

I'd say any module that's been subjected to the backwards input signal is suspect and could have been damaged.

I don't think higher dwell makes it hard to start... it just puts more heat through the module and coil.

[This message has been edited by Will (edited 10-02-2014).]

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #615, 10-02-2014 08:27 PM
      I still don't understand why with the new ones it wont start but as long as the old Bosch one works and it starts with it and does not get hot i don't care and since i changed the megasquirt to the new ignition output configuration they stay cool and it revs

[This message has been edited by engine man (edited 10-02-2014).]

Will (william.lucke@gmail.com) MSG #616, 10-03-2014 09:26 AM
      Bosch builds good stuff. Are the new ones Bosch?

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #617, 10-03-2014 02:42 PM
      no some off brand

Will (william.lucke@gmail.com) MSG #618, 10-04-2014 01:12 PM
      They might be toast, then.

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #619, 10-04-2014 02:25 PM
      i bought a used Bosch module the other night on ebay but haven't got it yet but i will use it along with the other one i have that is good . i want to get it to idle but i think that since i only have one good working module there is no sense to try setting it up yet so i will wait and i have some more pipes so i can get the mufflers on it then i will take a new video of it running

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #620, 10-07-2014 06:40 PM
      i took a video today but the sound was so bad when i just watched it i wont post it i need to put the camera further away . the car needs to be tuned that will take driving it with VE analyzer live turned on so it automatically tunes it

Kemp3 (jckemp3@sonic.net) MSG #621, 10-08-2014 01:21 AM
      Engine Man,

VE analyzer does work quite well , just make sure you have all the parameters set correctly in ego controls. There is a built in VE table generator that can get you close if you know enough about your engine. Just take it easy and it will do its thing for you.

Good Luck Have Fun


engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #622, 10-08-2014 08:38 AM
      i dint know about the table generator what is that under so i can use it as i am pig rich right now

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #623, 10-08-2014 09:23 PM
      I found the AFR table generator and filed it out got the info but cant seem to save it as the correct type of file i used notepad like they said but it doesn't do that type of file what am i doing wrong

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #624, 10-11-2014 02:17 PM
      no driving the car this weekend exhuast pipes dint show looks like they will be hear monday and it looks like i need to replace the passenger side valve cover gasket as i keep having oil in the spar plug wells . i did try it a little bit and it felt like it is going to be fun to drive with good power! but i know i will want more power

[This message has been edited by engine man (edited 10-11-2014).]

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #625, 10-12-2014 01:21 PM
      ok i found some info i had wrong and it was injector size i thought i had 21lbs per hour injectors but the are 19.7 this is based on the injector part number and looking it up on line at Stan wise fuel injector flow then i had to calculate for the higher fuel pressure going from 43 to 60 psi so i will correct that . I loaded all my fuel maps and ignition maps in manually one number at a time so it should be running better i just need to learn more about the idle so i can get that correct

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #626, 10-12-2014 07:30 PM
      now i am trying to figure out what my injector dead time should be i am trying to get it right but it seems like i am finding bits and pieces to the puzzle

Kemp3 (jckemp3@sonic.net) MSG #627, 10-12-2014 09:53 PM
      .8 will work just fine for the injector dead-time, when you are all tuned and running well you can play with the dead-time and offset more. But get as much worked out now as possible, the dead-time isn't crucial .

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #628, 10-13-2014 09:04 AM
      Kemp3 i am running pwm Bosch 2 wire idle valve and cant get it to idle yet but am working on it

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #629, 10-13-2014 03:55 PM
      Grrrrr fouling plugs out cant get this tuned with narrow band O2 and 14point7 is all out of the wide band one i want

Kemp3 (jckemp3@sonic.net) MSG #630, 10-13-2014 10:53 PM
      In the test mode there is an idle valve test, you should use that to see if the idle valve is even working and which direction it is moving if at all.

If your fouling plugs then most likely you are rich , cut fuel from idle realm until you get the lowest kpa numbers. Are you using the idle ve table ? if not make sure its off and just us the ve table.

GLHF


engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #631, 10-14-2014 11:06 AM
      ya i checked the idle valve and it isn't working so i need to put a more robust transistor in for Q4 on the board to get it working again i will make all the repairs to that tonight .

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #632, 10-14-2014 06:52 PM
      well i worked on the car today after walking away from the 72 350SL Mercedes that i am getting running for a customer .I put the rest of the exhaust on and started the car to see how it sounds i like it but it has it's own sound it doesn't sound like a European nor does it sound American but i think it sound good

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #633, 10-15-2014 07:08 PM
      what the hell not running again it starts on starting fluid or gas if i pour or spray it in the throttle body . i will check the injectors to make sure they there working if there working then on to fuel pressure

IVANNATINKLE (seanmiller063@gmail.com) MSG #634, 10-16-2014 04:53 PM
      Oh no very much looking forward to seeing this one up and running!

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #635, 10-16-2014 07:30 PM
      i cant seem to figure out why the injectors are not firing i checked the wires from the megasquirt and they are fine no breaks and the jim stim for testing the megasquirt shows the injectors firing but when a test light is plugged in it is not flashing i know i have power to the injectors and i took and tapped the injectors wire from the megasquirt to ground and they fire so why are they not firing

Kemp3 (jckemp3@sonic.net) MSG #636, 10-16-2014 10:46 PM
      check all your settings in TS, maybe you accidentally changed something like required fuel or turned on idle ve and its set to 0 ? just go through everything and make sure nothing is out of sorts.

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #637, 10-17-2014 09:26 PM
      I wish i could say things are better but there not now i cant get the Megasquirt to work it is disconecting from tunerstudio and shutting down i think i fried the daughter board or something i will have to get a good ohm meeter and check every thing i can if it is the board i will get a new one

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #638, 10-18-2014 09:06 PM
      after hours of testing i feel that i have killed the daughter board so i will order a new one coming and get it going again

[This message has been edited by engine man (edited 10-18-2014).]

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #639, 10-19-2014 05:29 PM
      pulled my hair out for three days and think the daughter board is gone because i could not load the updated firmware so i order a new daughter board then i find it yes i find i am getting a voltage drop from my Jimstim but it seemed every time i pluged it in to the megasquirt it seem to overheat and voltage drop but it wasn't the megasquirt it was the cpu on the jimstim i just happen to touch it and found that it was hot way hotter than it should be so pulled it problem cured i got the new firmware loaded and reloaded my tune now i get to try it tommorow

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #640, 10-19-2014 09:51 PM
      Kemp3 i am starting at ground zero and working from there so i started a whole new tune i feel this is best way and i hope the injectors work

[This message has been edited by engine man (edited 10-19-2014).]

Kemp3 (jckemp3@sonic.net) MSG #641, 10-20-2014 12:33 AM
      That is probably the best thing to do at this point. Get it running save .msq as "yourpickfilename" on desktop some where. Now you have a safe tune to always fall back on, if you make some good changes and there is no problems save that as your fall back. Don't make a lot of changes at one time, to hard to track what could be a problem if there is one. Pick one item get it dialed in and then move one.

Start up and Idle is probably the hardest thing to tune , be patient.

GLHF


engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #642, 10-20-2014 09:17 PM
      well i found the info i need to check the injector circuit so i will do that and repair what ever is wrong

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #643, 10-21-2014 09:51 AM
      ok i did what Megasquirt said to do to test the circuit and it checked out fine i touched pin 21 & 22 to ground from U1 40 pin daughter board and the injector lights light up on the jimstim so i am not sure if i have a bad fuel reg or bad setting for the injectors

Kemp3 (jckemp3@sonic.net) MSG #644, 10-22-2014 12:18 AM
      check your pm

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #645, 10-23-2014 10:59 AM
      i checked fuel pressure it is 58 psi the book said 61 psi so it is off a small amount but not enough to make the problem i am having . i ordered all new components for the injection circuit in the megasquirt and if i can ever figure out where the msq file is on my computer i will send it to you kemp3

Kemp3 (jckemp3@sonic.net) MSG #646, 10-24-2014 12:07 AM
      Open your current tune, Go to file and save tune as , select your desktop as the save location.

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #647, 10-24-2014 08:43 AM
      ok i will try saving a msq to the desktop


engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #648, 10-24-2014 08:55 AM
      That worked and it is sent to you thanks Kemp3

Kemp3 (jckemp3@sonic.net) MSG #649, 10-24-2014 10:50 PM
      I need all the info on your motor;

displacement
injector size
firing order
crank info tooth count
cam info tooth count
so on so forth

It looks like your running wasted spark and semi-sequential or batch fire fuel ?
then I can understand the msq you sent me.


engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #650, 10-25-2014 04:54 PM
      ok 4172 cc firing order 15486372 bore size 84.5 mm stroke 93 mm 300 HP@ 6000 , 295 FT LBS @ 3000 rpm , 60 tooth crank wheel 2 teeth missing no cam input 19.8 pounds per hour injectors batch fire semi seq , wasted spark coil on plug tooth 1 120 degree btdc

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #651, 10-26-2014 01:08 PM
      i don't get it i have it running but i cant get it to idle so i change the megasquirt to do pwm idle valve then the injectors stop working it is driving me nuts . i checked every thing on the megasquirt and it is right it shows that the injectors are firing when hooked to the Jimstim test board do i need to build some sort of board with mosfet relay to get this thing to work now when it worked before

Will (william.lucke@gmail.com) MSG #652, 10-26-2014 04:42 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by engine man:

firing order 15486372


Is that using "Chevy numbering" or Audi numbering?

Europeans use cylinder numbering conventions which are mystifying and illogical to those who grew up with Chevies.


Kemp3 (jckemp3@sonic.net) MSG #653, 10-26-2014 05:03 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by engine man:

i don't get it i have it running but i cant get it to idle so i change the megasquirt to do pwm idle valve then the injectors stop working it is driving me nuts . i checked every thing on the megasquirt and it is right it shows that the injectors are firing when hooked to the Jimstim test board do i need to build some sort of board with mosfet relay to get this thing to work now when it worked before


sounds like you may have a hardware conflict, could you be using the idle circuit to drive an injector ?

MS2 extra doesn't have the same features as the MS3 so I am not sure of the hardware limitations.

When I looked at your tune I only noticed a few things that may be an issue. Your required fuel should be rechecked, also in general settings it says you have 4 injectors and I believe you have 8. I also recommend changing your batch fire from 2 squirts to 4 alternating, 2 squirts means you have 4 injectors firing off at a time . How did you come to your dwell time ? if your coil near plug I say try 3.5ms at the least. How did you figure out your tooth#1 angle ? Lastly for your idle tuning turn off ego control , depending on your settings it could mess everything up. Wait till you get a WBO2 then you will have a much better idea of whats going on. I would not go out and load the motor till I had one.

glhf



engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #654, 10-26-2014 05:16 PM
      tooth angle was done by finding tdc with a TDC stop then counting the teeth from the first tooth to tdc 20 teeth so 20 X 6 degrees per tooth = 120 and it ran before i tried to go to the pwm idle circuit i will go to 4 pulse on the injectors i did see the 4 injectors after i sent that to you and changed that but it did nothing . the thing i dont get is the jimstim shows the injector circut working perfect thats what i don't understand how every thing checks out to be working but it wont run now even though it ran before sure it was running rich but it ran

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #655, 10-26-2014 07:08 PM
      i did the changes you said and will see if it works lets cross our fingers thanks for the help 14point7 doesn't have the wide band yet they are still out of the spartan

[This message has been edited by engine man (edited 10-26-2014).]

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #656, 10-27-2014 10:08 AM
      still nothing so id did a voltage check while cranking and i have 9.5 at the injector power pin but if i hook it up so that it is being powerd like a injector i am only getting .5 volts so why am i not getting the voltage i need i put a brand new U4 in and Q1 & Q5 so that is all new

Kemp3 (jckemp3@sonic.net) MSG #657, 10-27-2014 07:41 PM
      I am confused now, does it still run when you have your idle control disabled and then not work when you enable idle ? If so can you use one of your remote ports ?

I know you are so close to running and eager but maybe send it in to DIYautotune and have them bench test it. See if they can recreate the issue , hell it may be a conflict in firmware that James has to look investigate .

glhf


engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #658, 10-27-2014 08:52 PM
      no it wont run i have checked every thing on the megasquirt it seems to be working like it is supposed to so the next thing i am going to try is cranking the engine with the injection disconnected and observe the fuel pressure then connect the injection and do the same and see what the fuel pressure is if the injectors are firing at all it might be lower on the fuel pressure if the fuel pump cant keep up i tried a noid light for fuel injectors but it is not lighting up. the thing i cant understand is it looks like it is working perfect on the jimstim the injector lights blink just like they should i pulled a injector today and looked at it and looked up the number it was a high imped so and it's flow was a bit more 20.1 lbs hr not the 19.8 so i changed that but that dint work

[This message has been edited by engine man (edited 10-27-2014).]

Kemp3 (jckemp3@sonic.net) MSG #659, 10-27-2014 09:59 PM
      can you tell me more about your coils ? part number ?

pull your FP fuse , go key on and use the output test mode - inj/spk. Test each injector at a time, Output interval 150 (800 rpms), pulsewidth 4 ms , Total number of injections 5. Start with Inj A (cyl 1) you should be able to hear it click or at least feel it. Continue to Inj B (cyl 5) so on so forth , do not fire the injectors dry to many times it may damage them.

you can test your coils in a similar manor , Coil A (cyl 1) and Coil E (cyl 6) should both fire . Now in the test mode it may not be true but every coil should fire when selected.
Coils A&E (1&6) Coils B&F (5&3) Coils C&G (4&7) Coils D&H (8&2) in wasted spark should fire together.

Last note on tooth#1 angle , you found it to be 20 teeth from missing @ TDC. 2 things to know you can be anywhere from 114* to 126* depending on the rising or falling edge. You will need to verify your timing once your running with a timing light and timing marks. Also you could be 360* off, when you checked TDC did you verify it was on compression stroke ? if not could have been exhaust stroke. It shouldn't be a huge issue as your running wasted spark but may make a difference.


engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #660, 10-28-2014 06:35 PM
      this all started when i tried to modify the pwm on the megasquirt to try and get it to idle. I can put q4, q20 r39 and d8 back so the board is the way it was when it ran but wouldn't idle with with out my foot on the pedal

Kemp3 (jckemp3@sonic.net) MSG #661, 10-28-2014 09:25 PM
      is there anyway you can open your idle valve by hand a little ?

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #662, 10-29-2014 11:03 AM
      drill small hole in throttle plate

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #663, 10-30-2014 10:29 AM
      megasquirt manual needs to change the word should use a mica insulator to must use because that was the whole problem now it runs Grrrrrrrrrrr

[This message has been edited by engine man (edited 10-30-2014).]

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #664, 10-30-2014 08:26 PM
      ok today when i got it started i seemed like it is going to idle i just need to work on it a little it had a rolling idle so it would finale die

Kemp3 (jckemp3@sonic.net) MSG #665, 10-30-2014 09:04 PM
      without a WBO2 and a datalog I cant help much , but a hunting idle sounds lean to me.

Is your narrow band reading in TS ? if so run a datalog and email it to me.


engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #666, 10-31-2014 11:09 AM
      ya i need the wide band and just amgoing to have to buy a more expensive one since they dont seem to be getting that one back at 14point7 but i have a video of it running the sound sucks due to cheap caera and microphone
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XJ0BG-6jeSs


Kemp3 (jckemp3@sonic.net) MSG #667, 10-31-2014 05:46 PM
      congrats

on the slight surge in your idle I would guess maybe a little to much timing or still a little lean.

get a WBo2 and tuning will be a breeze.


engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #668, 10-31-2014 06:33 PM
      Thanks i will get the WBo2 in a few weeks but i have to get the 72 Mercedes in shop and running for my customer then i will have some more money

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #669, 11-01-2014 01:04 PM
      I just want to say building this car is fun and anyone who might want one like it i hope this thread helps you it really wasn't that hard to build i still need to do some bracing and clean up the wiring and i want to thank all the guys who helped with good ideas and pointing me in the right direction

[This message has been edited by engine man (edited 11-01-2014).]

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #670, 11-04-2014 08:11 PM
      tomorrow i am going to try to register the car and bleed the brakes and go for a ride i sure hope i can do this at lunch time

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #671, 11-04-2014 08:12 PM
      ops dual post

[This message has been edited by engine man (edited 11-04-2014).]

Will (william.lucke@gmail.com) MSG #672, 11-05-2014 09:36 AM
      Have you welded in braces for your modified cradle as we discussed earlier in the thread?

It would be a shame to go through all of this and then have that cradle fold up the first time you took a corner.


engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #673, 11-05-2014 01:17 PM
      no and i need to do that before the road test i did get it registered but i need a new RR caliper so i can stop

Will (william.lucke@gmail.com) MSG #674, 11-06-2014 02:03 PM
      That helps too.

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #675, 11-06-2014 07:24 PM
      RR caliper showed at the shop but wait right box but wrong caliper so they have to get me another

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #676, 11-08-2014 06:29 PM
      Will i did some welding today i got the braces welded in so there should not be a issue when i go into a corner

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #677, 11-09-2014 08:07 PM
      well now i can make the wiring look better and repair the wiring inside that the previous owner messed up and looks like a 2 year old did

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #678, 11-11-2014 10:11 AM
      rear braces


Will (william.lucke@gmail.com) MSG #679, 11-11-2014 01:55 PM
      1" square tubing? .060" wall thickness? Looking at that vs. the stock rear crossmember on the cradle, I'd want a more extensive truss on your modified cradle. You may want to make a bolt-in brace that goes above the transmission.

For example, if you're in a hard left corner, the lateral links are going to be pushing left on the right cradle rail. The way you have it now, that tries to bend the horizontal tubing in the middle.

The way you have it now is better than it was... now you're depending on the bending strength of that square tubing. Before, you were depending on the bending strength of the 90 degree joint.

EDIT:

I'd want to build a truss like this before I'd feel good about working that car hard:



EDIT 2: Obviously the truss would go up in plane with your rear crossmember and the rear cradle mounts... not sticking out behind the car

[This message has been edited by Will (edited 11-11-2014).]

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #680, 11-11-2014 03:05 PM
      i am using .083 wall not .060 and i don't know if you can see but i put another 1 x2 under the crossmember in the center to stiffen it up and i feel it is as strong if not stronger than stock but that is just my opinion

Will (william.lucke@gmail.com) MSG #681, 11-11-2014 04:28 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by engine man:

i am using .083 wall not .060 and i don't know if you can see but i put another 1 x2 under the crossmember in the center to stiffen it up and i feel it is as strong if not stronger than stock but that is just my opinion


I hadn't noticed that extra 1x2 earlier... but it needs to extend another 2" on each side to get the best benefit out of being there.

Keep in mind that the stock rear cradle crossmember has a beam height of 4 inches or so, and what you currently have there has a beam height of only 2 inches. That's a HUGE factor in its bending stiffness.

The truss I drew above doesn't depend on bending stiffness at all, only tension/compression. (and it has a beam height of something like 16 inches)

[This message has been edited by Will (edited 11-11-2014).]

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #682, 11-11-2014 06:45 PM
      i think i will tie that in better with some flat stock on each side so it will have better strength . if I remember right the stock crossmember went down to about a inch thick and about 4 inches wide but i could be wrong i will see in the morning where i cut the old one out how wide and tall it was but any way i am having fun i took it out for a drive today it ran all right but it needs tuning and i worked on the bad valve cover and repaid it i really cant wait for next summer to drive it all the time

seajai MSG #683, 11-11-2014 07:16 PM
      You'll know pretty quick if it's strong enough the first hard corner you take, but to me it looks like it should be a bit beefier. There are many different loads that cross member will see from suspension side load to engine torque. Don't forget about vertical load from the weight of the eng/trans as the car bounces up and down when driving. I'm from the "build it 10x stronger than it needs to be" school when it comes to that though. I used 2"x 4"x.125" and 2"x2"x .1875" square tubing for my cross members. I've driven the car hard over the last couple years and everything has held up perfectly. You've put a lot of work into this project and a cross member failure would do a lot damage, I'd hate to see that happen to you.

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #684, 11-11-2014 09:08 PM
      i could use some 1 1/2 roll cage tubing to go from side to side and i can have my friend bend it on the tubing bender at the shop and it will be something like Will has drawn

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #685, 11-12-2014 07:02 PM
      took it out for a ride today was fun even though it only has about half throttle it seemed to pull good i will fix the throttle issue by the weekend even after i get it fixed there really isn't any place to really beat on it with out getting a ticket

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #686, 11-13-2014 09:22 PM
      well i am going to change the fuel pump and do a few more things Saturday then i will put it up for winter I am so glad that i could take it for a drive and get a taste of what next season is going to be like

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #687, 11-15-2014 05:05 PM
      fuel pump all changed and i re did the injectors so 1,3,6,8 are together and 2,4,5,7 are together this is supposed to give a more even fuel flow through the fuel rail

[This message has been edited by engine man (edited 11-15-2014).]

KaijuSenso MSG #688, 11-15-2014 10:07 PM
      Are you going to get us some video of it running right? Maybe a quick drive by?

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #689, 11-16-2014 04:40 PM
      i don't think i will get a good video due to it needs to be driven and tuned with a wide band O2 and i don't have that O2 yet and we have been getting snow so i don't want to drive it and it is running so rich it fouls out plugs really fast but you never know i just might get the itch and buy the O2 and get it running good before a big snow storm

[This message has been edited by engine man (edited 11-16-2014).]

Will (william.lucke@gmail.com) MSG #690, 11-17-2014 12:21 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by engine man:

i could use some 1 1/2 roll cage tubing to go from side to side and i can have my friend bend it on the tubing bender at the shop and it will be something like Will has drawn


With the right design of the joints, there's no reason that brace can't be bolt-in.


engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #691, 11-21-2014 04:04 PM
      Drive by video on dirt running on all 8 but video sound quality bad
and still not tuned https://www.youtube.com/wat...a9U&feature=youtu.be


engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #692, 11-22-2014 09:46 PM
      thought i would post my expenses for everything so far

Engine 1998 Audi A8 with ECU and wiring harness $700
2000 VW Passat transaxle 012 $250
034 motor sports flywheel $450
Megasquirt 2 $450
porsche boxster shifter & cables $100
Porsche Boxster transmission shift linkage $75
Audi A8 wheel bearing $ 75
Audi A8 hubs $50
6 puck clutch $75
Machine work to rear knuckles for Audi A8 wheel bearings $350
Re-drill hubs to 5 x100 bolt pattern $150
exhaust $400
steel needed for mounts and rebuild cradle $100


Stubby79 MSG #693, 11-23-2014 05:56 AM
      That thing sounds mean! Should sound even better when you have it tuned properly. Nice job!

I've been following for...ever, it seems. Wondered if you'd manage to finish before running out of patience. I'm glad you saw it through.

Oh and that's one good looking car. Love the paint color.


engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #694, 11-23-2014 03:28 PM
      thanks Stubby79 it means allot to me that i built this i took it for a ride today she pulls pretty good but i had my dog with me so i didn't really beat on it and i am trying to tune it but for some reason now the laptop keep disconnecting from the megasquirt

[This message has been edited by engine man (edited 11-23-2014).]

KaijuSenso MSG #695, 11-23-2014 04:41 PM
      Glad it's in drivable condition before putting it up for winter! Next season is going to be a blast once it's all situated.

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #696, 11-23-2014 05:23 PM
      Yes KaijuSenso i can't wait for next year to put some miles on i know i am going to have a blast

fieroguru MSG #697, 11-23-2014 07:56 PM
      Congrats on sticking with it and getting it running/driving! This is one of my favorite threads to check out when I get time, so great job getting it running!

ericjon262 MSG #698, 11-23-2014 08:15 PM
      wow, sounds really nice.

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #699, 11-23-2014 08:29 PM
      thanks it sounds better in person i will tell you it was worth every challange it is not as nice as some that put them together but i am proud of it

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #700, 11-24-2014 12:32 PM
      well i took the fiero for a ride today and i went home dropped the dog off and just tried it a bit there isn't much traction on a wet road and i still haven't put it to the floor

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #701, 11-24-2014 08:30 PM
      I feel like a kid on Christmas eve i haven't had this much fun since driving my dirt race car

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #702, 11-26-2014 07:06 PM
      I want to thank all the guys that pushed me like Will , Kemp3 and the rest that gave me constructive criticism i want to thank guys like V8 Archie , Fieroguru ,Dark Horizon and all the others like them who inspire you to make your dream real like they have . i want to thank all the rest of the Forum even the ones that don't like me and said I couldn't do it or wouldn't do it .
Every one have a great Thanksgiving

[This message has been edited by engine man (edited 11-26-2014).]

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #703, 11-27-2014 11:48 AM
      My hopes on this engine swap is about the same performance as Will's N* i would like to see high 12's in the 1/4 mile and since now weight is centered and moved forward i am hoping it makes it handle just a bit better and the engine is a little heaver than a stock V6 350 vs 395

[This message has been edited by engine man (edited 11-27-2014).]

Will (william.lucke@gmail.com) MSG #704, 11-28-2014 06:15 PM
      You're welcome. It's good to see you get through it.

I was about 3100 race weight with 255 at the wheels and grabbed high 12's at 106. I weigh ~250 and the car was about 2850 or maybe a little lighter, as I had the spare tire, sunroof, etc. out.

The new Northstar's pushing about 312 to the wheels and trapped 112, so you may have to switch to the 360 HP S6 engine to match that.
I don't have a better ET yet, as I'm fighting wheel hop and blew up a CV joint.


engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #705, 11-28-2014 06:44 PM
      ? Will are you running Catalytic converters my car is cat free so the exhaust has better flow so it should make more power than stock but i think it will only pick up maybe 20 to 30 HP when tuned right. stock hp is 295 for my engine wit 300 FT lbs torque so i might be able to squeeze 30 more hp bringing it up to 325 HP or i forgot the power steering is gone so that is a little bit and the AC pump is not there and i know they rate engine with every thing running .

[This message has been edited by engine man (edited 11-28-2014).]

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #706, 11-30-2014 07:25 PM
      thought i would share this video of a mostly stock Audi ABZ 4.2 engine like the 1 i have but the intake he is using is not stock and he is running a big turbo 7.05 1/4 and has run in the high 6's https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FZ7pPtqtkjQ#t=101

Will (william.lucke@gmail.com) MSG #707, 12-01-2014 11:05 AM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by engine man:

? Will are you running Catalytic converters my car is cat free so the exhaust has better flow so it should make more power than stock but i think it will only pick up maybe 20 to 30 HP when tuned right. stock hp is 295 for my engine wit 300 FT lbs torque so i might be able to squeeze 30 more hp bringing it up to 325 HP or i forgot the power steering is gone so that is a little bit and the AC pump is not there and i know they rate engine with every thing running .



Yes, I do have catalysts. The shorter louder Fiero exhaust almost can't help but liberate some power.
295 at the crank should be 250-260 at the wheels with a lightweight flywheel and minimal accessories. The transmission you're using will consume a little more power than the 282 I'm using, due to the bevel ring and pinion.

With a 282 transmission, 312 at the wheels is in the 340ish range at the crank.


engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #708, 12-01-2014 12:49 PM
      Will what do you think your car will run when you get the wheel hop fixed mid to low 12's

Will (william.lucke@gmail.com) MSG #709, 12-02-2014 09:16 AM
      If I can get as good a run out of my built engine as I did out of my first Northstar, it should be good for a 12.2 or so.


engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #710, 12-02-2014 09:54 PM
      I just found the 6 spd transmission i will replace the 5 speed if and when it breaks it is in a FWD Audi A4 code GVD this is built by getrag and it is strong in stock form and can be built to handle high out put such as 800 HP V8. oh ya there is a 6 spd automatic to that would be nice for those who want one

[This message has been edited by engine man (edited 12-02-2014).]

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #711, 12-03-2014 03:16 PM
      Some people are addicted to drugs , alcohol ,gambling but I just am Addicted to HP i just cant get out of my head how to get a Eaton 122 blower on this engine and i don't even have it tunned but that is just the way i am i think i need more power and sure i could go with a turbo but it won't give the look i am going for or the whine of a blower so i hope by the end of next summer i will have a Blower setup from the 4.4 Cadillac N* on this

[This message has been edited by engine man (edited 12-03-2014).]

Taijiguy (pcfixer@gmail.com) MSG #712, 12-03-2014 03:39 PM
      Damn. Love the way that thing sounds. Nicely done!

Will (william.lucke@gmail.com) MSG #713, 12-03-2014 04:58 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by engine man:

Some people are addicted to drugs , alcohol ,gambling but I just am Addicted to HP i just cant get out of my head how to get a Eaton 122 blower on this engine and i don't even have it tunned but that is just the way i am i think i need more power and sure i could go with a turbo but it won't give the look i am going for or the whine of a blower so i hope by the end of next summer i will have a Blower setup from the 4.4 Cadillac N* on this



Still need to start with the AQH/AVP 360 horse version ;-)


engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #714, 12-03-2014 05:52 PM
      Thanks Taijiguy i do love the sound but it is a bit loud maybe some exhaust tips with resonators . Will that is a 40 valve engine and it would be nice but this engine will work with a Blower and should make it around the 500 HP mark with the right pulley and 13 psi of boost

[This message has been edited by engine man (edited 12-03-2014).]

motoracer838 (jmartin@musicunveiled.com) MSG #715, 12-07-2014 12:26 PM
      Congrats on the progress, I've been watching from the start, the Audi v8 is one of a few choices I'm thinking about for my widebody 308 project. Keep up the good work.
Cheers Beers n Gearz. Joe


engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #716, 12-07-2014 12:49 PM
      Thank you would you be doing automatic or standard shift in either case i would start off with the trans out of a 05 A4 FWD they are both 6 spd and are much stronger than my 012 but at the time i dint know what car had this transmission and no one would or could tell me . i am not sure the 40 valve engine is worth the extra money for 10 hp more than the ABZ unless you are buying a S8 engine but then you are paying way more and a turbo on a ABZ is a much better deal as far as ecu i wish i had gone with VEMS as they do a plug & play for the ABZ so less wiring and way more support and money wise not really that much more then a megasquirt 3 so i hope you build 1 with the Audi i think you would be very happy with it i know i will once i have it tuned.

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #717, 12-09-2014 06:45 PM
      I have Cabin fever i just bought a powerdyne centrifugal supercharger it needs rebuilding but i can put this down low on the left and it is a bd11a it flows enough air for about 500 HP

[This message has been edited by engine man (edited 12-10-2014).]

IVANNATINKLE (seanmiller063@gmail.com) MSG #718, 12-11-2014 05:30 AM
      Now I HAVE to come check it out when I'm home on leave!

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #719, 12-11-2014 06:44 PM
      I hope you come take a look but you need to wait for the snow to melt shes sitting out side just waiting for spring

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #720, 12-12-2014 10:39 PM
      since the powerdyne need rebuilding i am trying to find out how much flow increase the over sized billet impeller gives since i do need a new impeller the old one is missing but i only paid $100 for it so i can do a major rebuild and have like new or better

nitroheadz28 MSG #721, 12-13-2014 12:27 PM
      Congrats on getting it running and driving!! Thats a beautiful color and it looked like a fun little ride . Thanks for having the patience to finish the project and pioneer an Audi swap!

Hopefully you can get some sound clips with a good camera at some point, I'm sure it must sound awesome.


engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #722, 12-13-2014 06:16 PM
      Thanks nitroheadz28 i can't wait for spring to get it out on the road and get it tuned and just maybe i will have the supercharger rebuilt so i can hopefully boost the power to 450 to 500 that would really put a smile on my face

[This message has been edited by engine man (edited 12-13-2014).]

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #723, 12-15-2014 04:15 PM
      I hope the guy selling me the supercharger isn't up to something now he has my money he is not emailing me back to tell me he has shipped it but i did use paypal and made sure i marked the payment for a item

Will (william.lucke@gmail.com) MSG #724, 12-16-2014 10:02 AM
      My girlfriend bought a new cat for here 2002 Audi. She found the cheapest price from an online retailer I'd never heard of before. After a week of no communication and no shipment of the part, she opened a paypal dispute at my suggestion. They immediately became responsive and shipped in a couple of days.

Don't hesitate to use the tools at your disposal. A week is enough time to ship it and certainly enough to send an email.


engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #725, 12-16-2014 12:51 PM
      yes i have had to do that in the past i don't get it though why are some like that i all ways have the part off and boxed to ship before i even sell it then just put the persons info down and get it out right away and i contact them and give them the shipping info but any how i am off to paypal to file

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #726, 12-16-2014 06:10 PM
      Dispute opened but so far no response but it has only been a few hours

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #727, 12-17-2014 06:18 PM
      well so far no response from the guy and i pushed it up to a claim at paypal

[This message has been edited by engine man (edited 12-17-2014).]

weaselbeak (dynamic_88@hotmail.com) MSG #728, 12-18-2014 04:33 PM
      Lovely when somebody tries to take your money and run.....

You had a lot of naysayers when you started this project. You should be proud of accomplishing this swap, which was far from easy and not just a copy of someone else's work, either. Congrats from me!


engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #729, 12-18-2014 06:31 PM
      weaselbeak thanks I know there where the naysayer but I had started other projects and had to sell them so I am sure that played into it but this one I said I will finish it hell or high water even though I have needed the money at times I just wouldn't sell even with Family trying to get me to sell . I hope paypal gives me the money back or it just shows up but I don't think it will show as the guy stopped emailing me and never gave me any tracking info or even a shipping number

Patrick (mnofony@yahoo.com) MSG #730, 12-19-2014 04:14 AM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by engine man:

i took it for a ride today she pulls pretty good but i had my dog with me so i didn't really beat on it...


 
quote
Originally posted by engine man:

well i took the fiero for a ride today and i went home dropped the dog off and just tried it a bit...


Nice to hear that you take good care of Wally.

The car sounds great. This is a very interesting swap. Looking forward to the "finished" product.



engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #731, 12-19-2014 08:57 AM
      Thanks Patrick it will be awhile before it is completed it needs body work, paint & interior work but i should have the running gear all done by the end of the summer at latest

[This message has been edited by engine man (edited 12-21-2014).]

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #732, 12-21-2014 04:06 PM
      I wish i was down south in warm weather i want to play dam it ! it's just cold and just enough snow to be crappy not even enough snow to really go snowmobiling.

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #733, 12-28-2014 11:29 AM
      well paypal is getting me a refund and i am biding on a Eaton m122 off a 2010 Shelby GT500

ericjon262 MSG #734, 12-28-2014 08:44 PM
      how do you plan to mount it? remote like a centrifugal unit, or on the engine as it would have been stock? planning on an intercooler?

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #735, 12-28-2014 08:49 PM
      i am up in the air about mounting i think it would look cool on top but not sure if i could make a intercooler work but i do plan on water methanol injection but first i need to win the auction

[This message has been edited by engine man (edited 12-28-2014).]

ericjon262 MSG #736, 12-28-2014 09:19 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by engine man:

i am up in the air about mounting i think it would look cool on top but not sure if i could make a intercooler work but i do plan on water methanol injection but first i need to win the auction



good luck. here's some inspiration:

http://www.thirdgen.org/for...should-not-left.html



engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #737, 12-28-2014 09:39 PM
      look what i won


ericjon262 MSG #738, 12-29-2014 08:25 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by engine man:

look what i won


Congrats! you might want to see if you can get a spare engine to do mock ups on.


engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #739, 12-29-2014 08:56 PM
      I am thinking mounting like the 3.8 supercharged Thunderbird that way i can have a intercooler

ericjon262 MSG #740, 12-29-2014 09:05 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by engine man:

I am thinking mounting like the 3.8 supercharged Thunderbird that way i can have a intercooler


did you check out the thread I linked to? the guy eventually went to an eaton M122(up from an M90) in a manner similar to the Tbird. He posted a bunch of neat stuff that might be helpful.


engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #741, 12-30-2014 05:31 PM
      thanks I did check it out I am going to have to get it and see what I have for space

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #742, 01-01-2015 06:47 PM
      i know how i am going to put the blower on and have a water to air intercooler and it will be mounted to the top of the engine but it is to hard to explain

355Fiero MSG #743, 01-03-2015 03:53 PM
      Engine man

I have watched your build from the beginning. I commend you for pushing through all the roadblocks that were put in your way. I think the car is great and really like the longitudinal set-up over the transverse in a Fiero. I always thought a longitudinal set-up would make the Fiero a much better set-up. Just my opinion though so no flame throwing all please.... You have proved that a manual transaxle and engine can be put into a stock Fiero so us replica builders now know that a few inches stretch like a 355 Ferrari replica etc. will fit a longitudinal set-up very nicely.

I was wondering if you would be willing to write up an install/configuration (everything you had to do to get it running right) for your after market wiring and engine control into the Fiero as I know you went through a few convolutions to get it set-up. I got lost a bit when you were setting up the ecm.

What wring changes were required out of the C500 and how did you plug into the Fiero wiring for the speedo/tach etc.? Also you ended up with quite a fight with the module and ended up finding a fix with a setting?

Thanks again for sharing your adventure and I look forward to seeing how you install the blower....

Cheers
Don


engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #744, 01-03-2015 08:00 PM
      thanks 355Fiero for the complement as far as the wiring i did nothing to the C500 i just put the wires where they went and wiring the Megasquirt i just cut the wires from the Fiero ECU plugs and conected them back to the Megasquirt harness in othere words the O2 wire from the Fiero ecu plug was spliced to the O2 wire in the on the megasquirt harness. I havent tried to do the speedo but that i feel is going to need a Dakota Digital and the tach wire just needs to be hooked up to the megasquirt box and the tech it self will need to be modified for a V8

[This message has been edited by engine man (edited 01-04-2015).]

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #745, 01-04-2015 07:58 PM
      this is a pic of a Audi V8 with a supercharger and he has used part of the original intake my plan is to mount my supercharger upside down line the Northstar one and it will kinda look like this


ericjon262 MSG #746, 01-04-2015 08:00 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by engine man:

this is a pic of a Audi V8 with a supercharger and he has used part of the original intake my plan is to mount my supercharger upside down line the Northstar one and it will kinda look like this


that's the exact way I was thinking it should be done, it's also how GM did the ZR1. it won't be easy, but I look forward to seeing it happen.


engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #747, 01-06-2015 08:45 PM
      tracking said supercharger is less than 200 miles away

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #748, 01-07-2015 07:20 PM
      I got it and cant wait but it's a bit cold out

KaijuSenso MSG #749, 01-07-2015 07:51 PM
      If you haven't done so already, check out how APR set up supercharger kits for the 4.2L



engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #750, 01-07-2015 08:28 PM
      They are a nice kit but but Wow the price 17,000 way to much money

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #751, 01-08-2015 08:32 PM
      found this company for intercoolers and i think i can get what i want for around $250 if you go to product photos then go down to liquid to air and letter D
http://www.bellintercoolers...motorLiquidCore.html

[This message has been edited by engine man (edited 01-08-2015).]

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #752, 01-10-2015 09:06 PM
      well i went out and looked at things and it looks like i will need to move part of the firewall forward for room but i think it wont be anymore than 2 inches from the top down to the fuel tank tunnel up with it being 2 inches at the top and zero at the bottom

[This message has been edited by engine man (edited 01-10-2015).]

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #753, 01-11-2015 12:40 PM
      I keep saying to my self it would be easier to remote mount the M122 Eaton supercharger down on the drivers side where the AC compressor was but i want the Aesthetics so it is a bit harder to do but to me it is worth it

seajai MSG #754, 01-11-2015 01:49 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by engine man:

well i went out and looked at things and it looks like i will need to move part of the firewall forward for room but i think it wont be anymore than 2 inches from the top down to the fuel tank tunnel up with it being 2 inches at the top and zero at the bottom


My box was about 2"deep. Pretty simple to do and there is plenty of room inside the center console if the ECM isn't in there. Invest in a good brake, it makes the job so much easier.



engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #755, 01-11-2015 05:16 PM
      mine will look more like what you have on the sides with it being 2 inches at the top down to zero at the bottom since the firewall is forward enough at the bottom . i am looking at the ford lightning intercooler like this one



Paul.S MSG #756, 01-11-2015 11:39 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by seajai:

..... plenty of room inside the center console if the ECM isn't in there.

Did you toss it or move it?


seajai MSG #757, 01-12-2015 01:22 AM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by Paul.S:

Did you toss it or move it?


Moved it to where the battery used to live. You can see more pics in my build thread, click on the link in my signature.





engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #758, 01-12-2015 02:11 PM
      now thats nice work wish mine was looking that good

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #759, 01-18-2015 07:37 PM
      I am not sure if i should buy a spare engine to do mock up it is cheap as it has a lite burn the salvage yard said but it is priced at $299

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #760, 01-30-2015 07:05 PM
      waiting waiting for winter to end then i can get back to playing

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #761, 02-01-2015 12:28 PM
      I think after i finish this car I might sell it but only to do another with a Pontiac V8 like a stroked 400 to 501 CI or maybe i will just keep this one and build the Pontiac powered one and i will keep the same longitudinal configuration

[This message has been edited by engine man (edited 02-01-2015).]

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #762, 02-04-2015 11:37 AM
      wondering what you think the Audi V8 car is worth when done all up and running let me know what someone should pay

MarkS (mshucks2@earthlink.net) MSG #763, 02-04-2015 01:46 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by engine man:

I think after i finish this car I might sell it but only to do another with a Pontiac V8 like a stroked 400 to 501 CI or maybe i will just keep this one and build the Pontiac powered one and i will keep the same longitudinal configuration



Wow..Pontiac V8 that's ambitious! What type trans are you thinking about? TH425 or 325..something like that? There is a cam belt drive kit out there that might shorten the overall length somewhat. Aluminium Edelbrock or KRE heads will lighten things a little..I will follow closely if you do, I have a 400 on an engine stand in my garage.

BR's,

Mark



engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #764, 02-04-2015 02:47 PM
      i would use a ZF6hp26 from a Audi and a US shift trans controller . First i need to finish this to be a driver then sell it to fund the next project

[This message has been edited by engine man (edited 02-04-2015).]

dratts (dratts2@gmail.com) MSG #765, 02-04-2015 07:13 PM
      So it's the journey and not arriving that you enjoy?

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #766, 02-04-2015 07:20 PM
      I do like to drive them but it's more fun to try and figure it all out

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #767, 02-04-2015 08:38 PM
      i just looked up the ZF6HP26 has a input torque rating of 443 FT LB of torque that is right there with the THM400 from GM

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #768, 02-08-2015 08:18 PM
      any one know the length from the Bellhousing surface to the front of the cylinder head or block of a Pontiac V8 ?

Will (william.lucke@gmail.com) MSG #769, 02-09-2015 10:15 PM
      For the cost of building a Poncho to decent power, you could likely afford the new Audi twin turbo V8 that makes 600+...

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #770, 02-10-2015 08:07 AM
      I am sure that is true Will but it is not all about the power some times plus if i want power i can put a turbo on the Pontiac

[This message has been edited by engine man (edited 02-10-2015).]

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #771, 02-12-2015 08:06 AM
      Winter is to long i just keep thinking of builds i would love to do

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #772, 02-13-2015 10:36 PM
      had fun the last 2 day as i took the engine out of a 2008 Subaru put new head gaskets and timing belt i really enjoyed doing it it took me longer than most but it was my first time doing a Subaru i like how simple they are to work on

Will (william.lucke@gmail.com) MSG #773, 02-13-2015 11:42 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by engine man:

my first time doing a Subaru i like how simple they are to work on


LOL WUT?

I've done an engine-in head gasket job on a Subaru... NOT my definition of easy to work on, although other than the engine being itself complicated and a tight fit between the frame rails, the cars themselves are simple.

Here's a 6 cylinder rebuild and swap into a Subaru: http://www.corner-carvers.c...owthread.php?t=31494

Also NOT easy to work on...


engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #774, 02-14-2015 12:27 AM
      Will that Subaru is not hard to work on compared to allot of cars i have worked on there is room for me to get my hands on the bolts try changing a alternator on a 2000 Chrysler Sebring or change a starter on a Honda element the Honda you have to take off the intake

Will (william.lucke@gmail.com) MSG #775, 02-14-2015 09:12 PM
      I've done a torque converter on 2002 A6 3.0 (C5 body). I know what hard to access is...

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #776, 02-14-2015 10:06 PM
      I just dint find it that hard but i pulled the engine and put it on a stand it took me 17 hours but i know i could cut that down to about 12 hours out repair and back in

zkhennings MSG #777, 02-16-2015 01:15 PM
      My WRX is fun to work on, everything is designed to come apart, not just to go together on the assembly line, a lot of thought went into that design.

dobey MSG #778, 02-16-2015 01:34 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by zkhennings:

My WRX is fun to work on, everything is designed to come apart, not just to go together on the assembly line, a lot of thought went into that design.


It's designed to go together easily on an assembly line. That also just makes it easy to take things apart as well, and if you're changing a timing belt, head gasket, etc… you're dropping the engine out.

I've been pondering getting another car as a daily driver, so I don't have to drive my truck that only gets ~13-14MPG around town all the time, and have been looking at three cars mainly: Subaru Legacy, BMW M3, and Lexus IS 300. The IS 300 is by far the easiest and cheapest to work on out of all three.

Of all the cars I've ever owned, my Honda del Sol is probably the easiest to work on. The whole interior in it, except for the dash, can be taken out in about 30 minutes, including seats and carpet. The head gasket can be replaced in about 2 hours in a parking lot if you've got the tools on hand. The only really annoying thing on it is the brakes, due to it being an early model of ABS, which requires special tools and a painful bleed procedure.


engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #779, 02-20-2015 10:21 PM
      well they are calling for more snow like a foot and the car is really buried and i am ready to have some fun working on it and i decided to not sell it but also build another few . I have now had my shop open for 11 months and thing's seem to be going good and looks like i will make it so i am pretty happy

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #780, 02-27-2015 09:48 AM
      Just looked at the 10 day forecast looks like 1 day it is going to be warm enough to melt some snow and by now most of the days are above freezing but it is 6 out right now and calling for -12 tonight .It's time to warm up and get the toys out and play

zkhennings MSG #781, 02-27-2015 02:54 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by dobey:


It's designed to go together easily on an assembly line. That also just makes it easy to take things apart as well, and if you're changing a timing belt, head gasket, etc… you're dropping the engine out.

I've been pondering getting another car as a daily driver, so I don't have to drive my truck that only gets ~13-14MPG around town all the time, and have been looking at three cars mainly: Subaru Legacy, BMW M3, and Lexus IS 300. The IS 300 is by far the easiest and cheapest to work on out of all three.

Of all the cars I've ever owned, my Honda del Sol is probably the easiest to work on. The whole interior in it, except for the dash, can be taken out in about 30 minutes, including seats and carpet. The head gasket can be replaced in about 2 hours in a parking lot if you've got the tools on hand. The only really annoying thing on it is the brakes, due to it being an early model of ABS, which requires special tools and a painful bleed procedure.


It's really easy to do the timing belt in the car. Headgaskets are more annoying since you have to be under the car, but no need to take the engine out. And the rest of the car is so clever. A couple screws and suddenly the interior trim pops out real easy. I took the cluster apart the other day and they super oversize all the snap features so they are both easy to undo without tools, as well as they do not break and get as brittle over time. I have worked on lots of car brands, and never have I worked on a car where less stuff breaks as it comes apart than the Subaru.

Wheel bearings suck to replace however.

[This message has been edited by zkhennings (edited 02-27-2015).]

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #782, 02-27-2015 09:50 PM
      I had to go watch my video now i really want to get going

dobey MSG #783, 02-28-2015 01:54 AM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by zkhennings:
It's really easy to do the timing belt in the car. Headgaskets are more annoying since you have to be under the car, but no need to take the engine out. And the rest of the car is so clever. A couple screws and suddenly the interior trim pops out real easy. I took the cluster apart the other day and they super oversize all the snap features so they are both easy to undo without tools, as well as they do not break and get as brittle over time. I have worked on lots of car brands, and never have I worked on a car where less stuff breaks as it comes apart than the Subaru.

Wheel bearings suck to replace however.


Come back in another 30 years and let me know how brittle that plastic hasn't become. All plastic will dry out and become brittle over time.

Easy is also a very relative term. It may be easy to do, but it's still quite a lot of work to replace a timing blet on a Subaru.



Draining the radiator so you can pull the front bumper off to access the front of the engine might be relatively easy, but it's a lot of work, is rather time consuming, and does require replacing the drained coolant.


engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #784, 02-28-2015 04:53 PM
      I am sure it seems like allot of work to some but no matter what i am working on for a car i love it , it is better then running a cash register ! sure i get dirty even tired and upset but in the end it is fun for me

[This message has been edited by engine man (edited 02-28-2015).]

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #785, 03-02-2015 07:46 PM
      I have been working on a 72 Mercedes 350SL in the shop all i can say is Wow mice can really do allot of damage

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #786, 03-03-2015 07:48 PM
      Have any of you used Dakota Digital speedometer signal corrector ? was it easy to use did it work good pleas let me know

dobey MSG #787, 03-03-2015 09:03 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by engine man:

Have any of you used Dakota Digital speedometer signal corrector ? was it easy to use did it work good pleas let me know


All of the F40 swaps with Archie's kit are using one. Once you get it set right it should work well, but they can take a bit of tweaking to get the signals matched right.

edit: I said LS3 before, but it's the F40 kit where it matters. If you use the stock Fiero trans, the speedo will just work, but I think you'll need the Dakota device to get the signal right for the ECM.

[This message has been edited by dobey (edited 03-04-2015).]

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #788, 03-03-2015 09:19 PM
      I will have to order 1 and i need to take the tach and do the mod to get that to read correct

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #789, 03-07-2015 09:34 PM
      i have ordered what i need for the speedometer and it looks like we are starting to warm up so i think in a few weeks i will be back running the car . i am thinking i might need some resonator tips to quiet it down some more how well do the Corvette tips work?

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #790, 03-09-2015 05:26 PM
      moved the snow of the top i plan on driving by next week at the latest

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #791, 03-10-2015 03:45 PM
      shoveled the snow around the car today so she is ready to come out maybe tomorrow at lunch i can drag it out and fire it up . the speedometer recalibration box came in today and i just ordered some resonator exhaust tips to help i hope

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #792, 03-12-2015 09:32 AM
      Well things have been slow the last 2 days so i took the Fiero in and found my mat sensor was not working due to the wires got melted so i repaired them and calibrated it so now it reads correct . i put the blower up on it just to see how it's going to look it made me smile but i wont install that till late summer

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #793, 03-13-2015 05:27 PM
      Looking for some info i need the dimensions to the heater blower fan i need just the cage info

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #794, 03-13-2015 06:59 PM
      i will be putting these exhaust tips on they have resonators


DisplacementIsKing (fieroguy94@gmail.com) MSG #795, 03-13-2015 07:15 PM
      Just did a quick scan of the whole forum, nice work with the swap. I remember reading a VW TDI swap that was sweet!

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #796, 03-13-2015 08:13 PM
      thanks it is a work in progress

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #797, 03-14-2015 04:53 PM
      today i checked timing and it was dead on i dint need to adjust it 1 degree this is due to finding TDC and marking it . i put the exhaust tips on and i still need to do a bit of adjustment so they are where they will look good .

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #798, 03-15-2015 08:13 PM
      Need some help i am looking at the VSS wires on the C203 yellow is high purple is low and there is a vss ground i am trying to figure out what go's where on the Dakota digital and what i really need to know is the output wire to the speedometer

Tweeder MSG #799, 03-17-2015 02:23 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by engine man:

i will be putting these exhaust tips on they have resonators


Any further info on those tips?



engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #800, 03-17-2015 05:04 PM
      not sure what type of info you are looking for on the tips but they are on the car and need a bit of adjustment . i bought this 1x Spartan Lambda Controller 2 - Spartan Lambda Controller with LSU 4.9 Wideband O2 sensor what adjustment's are needed to the megasquirt other than wideband is there calibration needed

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #801, 03-17-2015 08:27 PM
      i have decided to pull all the injectors due to i have 7 rich cylinders and 1 lean or burning correct i am thinking this is why i am getting a wrong O2 reading

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #802, 03-18-2015 08:17 PM
      i sure hope the wideband helps the narowband is nuts i have black smoke coming out and it is say 15:1 AFR. almost forgot i replaced my right valve cover that was bad with a good one

[This message has been edited by engine man (edited 03-18-2015).]

Tweeder MSG #803, 03-18-2015 10:51 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by engine man:

not sure what type of info you are looking for on the tips but they are on the car and need a bit of adjustment .


Who makes them an where can i get them?



engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #804, 03-19-2015 11:40 AM
      i bought them on ebay
http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-5...b24571e4684d%26pid%3 D100033%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D4%26sd%3D161013692480

[This message has been edited by engine man (edited 03-19-2015).]

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #805, 03-20-2015 05:48 PM
      I drove the fiero home tonight it seems to be running good i changed the coil setting from 3.1ms to 3.5ms and that seemed to help but it still wont idle i will work on that after i fix the speedometer

bigformula MSG #806, 03-20-2015 08:34 PM
      I gotta say this is one heck of a engine swap. nice

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #807, 03-20-2015 08:55 PM
      Thanks I am having fun with it

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #808, 03-22-2015 10:42 AM
      well i am going to have to upgrade to a better fuel pump relay as i have burned up another so i will buy a continuous duty relay from Jegs .

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #809, 03-23-2015 12:06 PM
      Hi I need some help on hooking the Tach up to the megasquirt i know there are a few that are running megasquirt with wasted spark so how do you get a tach signal i have selected iac1 as my tacho out put do i just hook that up to the tach wire or do i need to do something more?

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #810, 03-23-2015 07:03 PM
      well i will check the wires for some reason i think i might have the blk/wht wire in the c203 pin M not grounded i just hope it is this simple

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #811, 03-24-2015 10:07 AM
      I hate it when a company sells you something but they are out of it but don't tell you then you wait and wait and they try fooling you by printing a shipping label but 7 days after the USPS still hasn't posted it as shipped so i have opened a case against 14point7. Just send me my parts wtf

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #812, 03-24-2015 06:59 PM
      tomorrow i will test my tach signal with another tach to see if i am getting a signal then i will go from there. I still havent made the speedometer work it looks like i don't have a signal due to the light is supposed blink when you have a signal from what i understand

[This message has been edited by engine man (edited 03-24-2015).]

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #813, 03-25-2015 01:10 PM
      ya i have a tach signal now i just need a signal for the speedometer .

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #814, 03-25-2015 06:14 PM
      I have been told the transmission i have uses a reed switch so i need to put power to one side but i don't know what to do with the purple vss wire do i just ground it

zkhennings MSG #815, 03-26-2015 09:10 AM
      Just so you know, I read your updates like every day, even though there aren't many pictures it is quick and easy to read through everything since you post a little update like everyday.

I am looking forward to seeing this completed! I also have some MS questions I might PM you about.


engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #816, 03-26-2015 10:05 AM
      I hope i can help and thanks for following the thread

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #817, 03-26-2015 02:01 PM
      Well i give up on the Dakota Digital box i cant get a signal so i will go with a GPS interface module that should fix thing

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #818, 03-26-2015 02:38 PM
      Ok is the Signal that goes into the speedometer square wave or sine wave

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #819, 03-26-2015 08:25 PM
      Well i got the new fuel pump relay hooked up with 30 amp circuit breaker so the problem of eating stock relay is over . I see Dakota Digital makes a GPS speedometer interface and it has both sine wave and square wave output signal so when i can afford one i will buy one and solve that problem.

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #820, 03-27-2015 11:18 AM
      finally got the wide band O2 it works great

nitroheadz28 MSG #821, 03-27-2015 01:52 PM
      Glad to see you still plugging away at this, keep up the good work

Post up some more pics/ vids when you can!


engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #822, 03-27-2015 01:58 PM
      ya i forgot the camera today i was going to do a walk around video and maybe another drive by video

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #823, 03-28-2015 11:12 AM
      Walk around video of the car and better sound of it running

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eaTMkCyQhtU


nitroheadz28 MSG #824, 03-28-2015 01:02 PM
      She sounds awesome! Engine looks right at home in there

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #825, 03-28-2015 01:17 PM
      yup it pulls pretty good now i just need to put the supercharger on but that will be late summer early fall i should have the money to do it by then

[This message has been edited by engine man (edited 03-28-2015).]

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #826, 03-29-2015 09:53 PM
      well tomorrow i will check the O2 accuracy just to make sure it is perfect then i can start tunning . I cant wait to go to the drag strip just to see what it will do

zkhennings MSG #827, 03-30-2015 11:35 AM
      It sounds awesome and looks clean!

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #828, 03-30-2015 11:45 AM
      Thanks it looks better than it really is it is going to need paint and like i said the wires need a bit of untangling and i need a coolant expansion / fill tank so i can get rid of the coolant hose going over the top of the engine you know just a bunch of small things

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #829, 03-30-2015 07:00 PM
      well tomorrow i will fix the tach if i don't get any work in the shop

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #830, 03-31-2015 12:28 PM
      tach done just need to dial it in now

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #831, 03-31-2015 03:33 PM
      next on list is fix the power windows wiring as the clown who owned it before did a hack job on the wires


engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #832, 04-01-2015 07:04 PM
      I got a good chuckle today when a young woman said to me you drive a Ferrari I told her no it was a Pontiac Fiero

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #833, 04-03-2015 10:09 PM
      Had good weather today been driving the car and i got the windows all rewired now i am going to do some more bracing on the cradle tomorrow then i will start working on getting the new nose i bought for the car a few years back on . maybe some day this thread will be in the construction zone

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #834, 04-05-2015 07:16 PM
      Well i consider this engine swap a complete success sure it is not the fastest 1/4 mile car but it runs good and pulls hard up through the rpm's sounds great and the engine looks like it belongs there . i say to any one who wants to do this swap they should and if you want more power you can go with a turbo or a S8 40 valve engine .

[This message has been edited by engine man (edited 04-05-2015).]

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #835, 04-09-2015 11:32 AM
      I just moded the Porsche shifter it was straight on the sift knob rod unlike the fieros that bends so i cut it down and cut off a Fiero shift knob rod and welded it on now it sits in a better place when shifting the only other thing i would like is if the throws where shorter i may mod that to

[This message has been edited by engine man (edited 04-09-2015).]

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #836, 04-11-2015 07:31 PM
      today i worked on the exhaust getting it so the tips sat in same place and put hangers on now it looks good . I was chased down today by a guy who had a V8 fiero some years back he said he missed his Fiero then i showed him the Audi V8 and explained why i used it .

Neils88 (nellerin@dal.ca) MSG #837, 04-11-2015 07:50 PM
      This thread needs more pics !

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #838, 04-11-2015 08:10 PM
      ok more pics tomorrow

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #839, 04-12-2015 10:52 AM
      ok this is the shifter mods and pics of the exhaust tips

old shifter before mod

and after


megasquirt mounted


Exhaust tips




engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #840, 04-12-2015 08:14 PM
      today i took the car for a ride and hooked the laptop up and ran EFI Analytics TunerStudio analyzer live this tunes the car while driving .while i was diving i felt a brake dragging so i checked it out by putting my hand near each brake rotor and found the right front hot so i know that brake is dragging i am not sure why it is dragging but i will check out tomorrow

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #841, 04-17-2015 11:58 AM
      I keep looking at swaps and i see really nice swaps and cool ideas on how to get them to work but i keep hearing is how hard it is to do a swap even i thought it would be harder than what it was but i have not found my swap to be hard to do so i cant imagine what could be hard about some of the swaps maybe its just me and it's just the norm for me

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #842, 04-18-2015 08:34 PM
      I let my friend and his son take my Fiero yesterday to try it out and so i could hear what it sounded like when he got after it getting on the highway and i do have to say it has one of the best exhaust notes i have heard so i cant put a turbo on the car and mess that up so i will use the supercharger i have

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #843, 04-22-2015 02:49 PM
      I just replaced 4 coils 1 i knew that was bad due to checking it and the others i suspect where week due to the spark plug color now she sings on all 8 . now i have 6 new coils and 2 original coils

[This message has been edited by engine man (edited 04-22-2015).]

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #844, 04-23-2015 07:05 PM
      today a pair of coil covers showed up today so now it will look better i will have pics of it tomorrow

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #845, 04-25-2015 02:03 PM
      todays car show pics














[This message has been edited by engine man (edited 04-25-2015).]

Will (william.lucke@gmail.com) MSG #846, 04-25-2015 08:42 PM
      You need one of Infinite Will's GT decklid seals more than I do.

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #847, 04-25-2015 09:33 PM
      Lol yes I do


engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #848, 04-26-2015 05:06 PM
      ? to those who do tunning as i am driving on the highway at around 2500 rpm the engine seems to cut out or buck what do you think is happening to lean or what

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #849, 04-28-2015 07:31 PM
      wheels i like from F1R Model F23


engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #850, 05-09-2015 07:01 PM
      went to the car show today had some fun i all so got the new wideband O2 and i had to cut the plug off the old O2 and the new O2 and wire the plug on and i plugged it in to test it now it works it shows full lean with key on engine not running now i just need to solder the wires up from the old plug and new O2 . I got the coolant expansion tank and i need to install that so i can get rid of the coolant hose across the top of the engine

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #851, 05-10-2015 12:37 PM
      thought i would show how i was shown how to solder wires together .
ok you don't twist the wires together like this

the right way is wrapping them around each other like this

then solder them together getting the wire hot so it will melt the solder

it should look something like this when done

and finished with shrink tube on it

remember to cut out any bad corroded wire and splice in good wire


Will (william.lucke@gmail.com) MSG #852, 05-10-2015 07:20 PM
      I used to do that, but nowadays I use uninsulated crimp butt splices and clear shrink tube. It's much easier on your fingertips than twisting and bending lots of wires and has a much lower likelihood of getting burned... and seals/lasts just as well as a soldered connection without the risk of fatigue failure due to solder wicking.

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #853, 05-10-2015 08:15 PM
      I never had good luck with crimp style connectors but i never used the uninsulated crimps

weaselbeak (dynamic_88@hotmail.com) MSG #854, 05-10-2015 11:46 PM
      I take regular insulated connectors (I have a ton of them), wire wheel the plastic off, crimp and solder along with shrink wrap. Fantastic connections.

Taijiguy (pcfixer@gmail.com) MSG #855, 05-11-2015 09:20 AM
      I'm curious about soldering the wires together on the O2 sensor. I just bought a universal O2 for my Subi that came with a convoluted splice mechanism. I wasn't going to use it, and was just going to solder them like you did, but the instructions that came with the sensor specifically stated that you should use their splice system, saying there needs to be air flow around the wires, and to not solder splice with heat shrink. That sure didn't make any sense to me, but I took their word for it and went ahead and used their splice thing.
Anyone know anything about that?

[This message has been edited by Taijiguy (edited 05-11-2015).]

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #856, 05-11-2015 09:48 AM
      i have used those before and they work well but i don't get why they wouldn't want you to solder the wires i know my O2 works just fine

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #857, 05-12-2015 12:11 PM
      oops

[This message has been edited by engine man (edited 05-12-2015).]

Neils88 (nellerin@dal.ca) MSG #858, 05-13-2015 07:47 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by Taijiguy:

I'm curious about soldering the wires together on the O2 sensor. I just bought a universal O2 for my Subi that came with a convoluted splice mechanism. I wasn't going to use it, and was just going to solder them like you did, but the instructions that came with the sensor specifically stated that you should use their splice system, saying there needs to be air flow around the wires, and to not solder splice with heat shrink. That sure didn't make any sense to me, but I took their word for it and went ahead and used their splice thing.
Anyone know anything about that?



Do you have a picture of the splice? I'm intrigued...but can't see any reason why that would be better than a heat shrunk / solder connection.



engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #859, 05-16-2015 09:03 PM
      coolant hose moved and expansion tank installed




engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #860, 05-16-2015 10:14 PM
      i just found a set of quarter windows with scoops that the fiero store use to sell the have a tinted insert i am trying to buy them

seajai MSG #861, 05-17-2015 08:42 AM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by engine man:

coolant hose moved and expansion tank installed



That looks better, now you need to work on that intake hose. If you move the battery up front, you could use that area to route the intake hose and filter.







engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #862, 05-17-2015 11:54 AM
      Funny you saying that i was just talking to my brother how i need to do something with the intake as i feel the stock one is restrictive i can see the hose contracting when i rev it up like it is under vacuum

seajai MSG #863, 05-17-2015 08:36 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by engine man:

Funny you saying that i was just talking to my brother how i need to do something with the intake as i feel the stock one is restrictive i can see the hose contracting when i rev it up like it is under vacuum


I used 3-1/2" exhaust pipe to build mine. I pie cut pieces and welded them together to make the curves. The connectors are shielded rubber plumbing pipe connectors.



engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #864, 05-19-2015 04:11 PM
      Well i would like some new wheel but cant afford them so i am fixing up the old wheel i have done striped the old clear coat off and started to sand and polish the outer lip i will also repaint the centers maybe the same color as the car

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #865, 05-21-2015 09:57 PM
      i just bough some blue metalcast for the wheel i will leave the outside ring polished and paint the centers and spokes

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #866, 05-23-2015 07:00 PM
      well i finished the wheels after 8 hours





engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #867, 05-25-2015 09:11 PM
      I went to Newport NH Cruise Night put on by Car Nutz and met the parents of OneSexyFiero the where nice and i am sure i will be calling them for a few parts and i hope to see there Fiero out at the cruise nights

[This message has been edited by engine man (edited 05-25-2015).]

onesexyfiero (kevincdennis@gmail.com) MSG #868, 05-28-2015 07:07 AM
      Heard you ran into my parents. Said you've got a pretty nice setup. I've got a ton of parts down at my parents place, so let me know if you need anything. I'll definitely need to hit a Newport cruise night or two this summer.

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #869, 05-28-2015 08:17 AM
      ya i am going to need the driver side round trim from the back of the door to the wheel opening do you have that if so how much and can you have your parents bring it next week to Newport and i hope to see you there with a car it will be fun

[This message has been edited by engine man (edited 05-28-2015).]

onesexyfiero (kevincdennis@gmail.com) MSG #870, 05-29-2015 10:01 PM
      No round trim to spare, unfortunately. I'm sure I'll run into you at some point. They do an end of the year "mega cruise." I usually make it to that.

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #871, 05-30-2015 10:05 PM
      Well i started to work on the car body today and got the driver side rocker on right and i removed the GT panels on the bottom of the doors now i need to fill the holes

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #872, 06-04-2015 08:03 PM
      put new front Fascia on I need to work on the hood the front edge needs to be sanded so there is a gap and the back will still lineup




Will (william.lucke@gmail.com) MSG #873, 06-06-2015 07:19 PM
      I hope that was cheap.

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #874, 06-06-2015 08:29 PM
      well Will Beauty is in the eye of the beholder as they say i think it looks good and thats all that matters just like the rest of this build it really doesn't matter what any one thinks as i have proven i could do what allot said could not be done and the axle would not work with that much angle but they do so i get the last laugh to those naysayers

[This message has been edited by engine man (edited 06-06-2015).]

Neils88 (nellerin@dal.ca) MSG #875, 06-06-2015 08:40 PM
      I like it! It'll look great once it's painted.

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #876, 06-06-2015 09:19 PM
      thanks Neils88 I know that it is not for every one just like my engine choice

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #877, 06-07-2015 06:49 PM
      I tried to lean my idle mixture out but the idle starts hunting it seem to work best at 11.5 AFR as soon as i start leaning it out then it all turns to sh!t. I did take it out on the high way and let the computer do its thing and lean out at cruising speed so it should be better on gas but it really needs to go on a dyno so it can be tuned through out the full rpm

Will (william.lucke@gmail.com) MSG #878, 06-07-2015 08:36 PM
      Sequential? Have you played with injection timing? Since air velocity is low at idle, getting good atomization depends on introducing the fuel when the air velocity is highest.

Did you try setting fixed ignition timing (e.g. 10 degrees for idle tuning) before you play with the AFR?

Also... does that engine have variable cam phasing? The 3.0 V6 from 2002 does, even though it uses a timing belt as well.

[This message has been edited by Will (edited 06-07-2015).]

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #879, 06-07-2015 08:59 PM
      no variable cam phasing and is batch fire with the megasquirt and i have done it like they said and they say if you get to lean the idle will hunt it just is what it is i get a nice smooth idle at the 11.5 just thought i might be able to go leaner

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #880, 06-13-2015 11:23 AM
      ? do any of you know of a way to repair the bumpers on the fiero mine has a bunch spider cracks is there something i can paint it with to cover them after i get all the old paint off or do i need a whole new rear bumper cover due to the cracks will just come back up through the paint

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #881, 06-14-2015 01:44 PM
      well going to v grind the cracks and fill then sand the rear bumper

Will (william.lucke@gmail.com) MSG #882, 06-22-2015 08:10 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by engine man:

? do any of you know of a way to repair the bumpers on the fiero mine has a bunch spider cracks is there something i can paint it with to cover them after i get all the old paint off or do i need a whole new rear bumper cover due to the cracks will just come back up through the paint


http://www.amazon.com/Ureth...irless/dp/B000HAVE4O

I've used this to repair Fiero fenders. It's supposed to work on bumpers with the right filler rod.


engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #883, 06-27-2015 07:04 PM
      this week i think i am buying another engine to put the Eaton M122 blower on the engine i can get it for $299

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #884, 06-29-2015 01:19 PM
      just got off the phone and the engine for the M122 supercharger will be arriving no latter than Wednesday

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #885, 07-01-2015 06:52 PM
      all done lol


engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #886, 07-02-2015 01:40 PM
      I have decided to have the supercharger sticking out of the deck lid there will not be any cutting of the intake but there will be a custom drive for the blower

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #887, 07-02-2015 01:42 PM
      ooopps DP

[This message has been edited by engine man (edited 07-02-2015).]

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #888, 07-08-2015 06:12 PM
      ok i pulled the center of the intake out and i am thinking make a plate for the front that will hold a bearing and shaft with pulley and spinning the supercharger around and making a plate with a tube that the shaft go's through and another drive pulley to run the blower i can see how i want to do it but have a hard time explaining it




engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #889, 07-09-2015 07:52 PM
      ordered these to make a jack shaft that will pass right through the center of the intake


engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #890, 07-15-2015 08:02 PM
      Well i spent some money i dint need to since after taking the intake off i found i could make the blower fit under every thing . the intake is now over at the machinist to do the mods that need to be done i hope to have the intake all done by the end of next week but i will try to post some pics of it as he makes what i want

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #891, 07-16-2015 02:07 PM
      what the supercharger will look like on the engine



engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #892, 07-22-2015 06:26 PM
      cutting the top off the intake



engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #893, 07-25-2015 08:45 PM
      cant wait to go back to see how it looks at the machine shop

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #894, 07-30-2015 07:05 PM
      well i went and took a look at the manifold and it is looking good i have a few pics of it and the welding is perfect so you know i dint weld it




motoracer838 (jmartin@musicunveiled.com) MSG #895, 07-30-2015 10:35 PM
      That is showing some potential, I like where this is going.

Cheers Beers n Gearz. Joe


engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #896, 07-31-2015 07:53 PM
      thanks motoracer838 i am not sure when i will finish the blower due to i need to slow down on my spending so after the manifold is done i may have to put this on the shelf unless things pick up at the shop but it will get done just maybe not as fast as i want

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #897, 08-10-2015 09:52 PM
      i picked up the intake today only thing left is fitting the supercharger to it but that wont be for a few weeks

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #898, 08-11-2015 08:54 PM
      how it looks with blower and new manifold




Will (william.lucke@gmail.com) MSG #899, 08-12-2015 07:01 PM
      I guess the manifold is aluminum? My Ex had an 2002 Audi A6 3.0 and I thought it has a plastic manifold, but I could be wrong about that.

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #900, 08-12-2015 07:58 PM
      ya some of the newer ones are plastic but this one is good old aluminum

IVANNATINKLE (seanmiller063@gmail.com) MSG #901, 08-13-2015 01:45 AM
      for some reason all of the pictures are coming up as ? marks on my computer. damn shame! but either way I can NOT wait to see this thing running with a blower!

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #902, 08-13-2015 10:41 AM
      wonder if any one other than you is having the same problem with the pictures

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #903, 08-23-2015 06:33 PM
      well i have been working and saving so i can get the blower engine done i will push it into the garage soon so i can take it apart and fit the new engine in


engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #904, 08-25-2015 04:22 PM
      brought intake top back to the machinist for them to finish up should have it back next week

Patrick (mnofony@yahoo.com) MSG #905, 08-25-2015 04:43 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by engine man:

wonder if any one other than you is having the same problem with the pictures


Your pictures are showing up fine, but I have to admit that I often have difficulty seeing my own images that I've uploaded (with PIP). It seems to be a cache problem which I need to manually clear before I can see my images in the threads again. Quite a nuisance!


engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #906, 08-25-2015 07:03 PM
      i thought i would post what i am trying for with the blower on the engine and that is to run a mid 10 second 1/4 mile i will need a roll cage and more i am sure

Ryanap333 (ryanap333@aol.com) MSG #907, 08-29-2015 07:32 PM
      Timm/phonedawgs if you read this please contact me asap in regards to my harness and computer...

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #908, 08-30-2015 04:40 PM
      well a while back i had a fueling problem with it ending up i burnt one injector bank Fuze out and dint repair it in time so number 1 cylinder has gone away with compression at just under 120 psi and all the others at 150 and the spark plug from #1 showed burnt black aluminum on the insulator and it was really packed in there now i have a James Bond machine really good at smoke screens

Patrick (mnofony@yahoo.com) MSG #909, 08-30-2015 06:25 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by engine man:

number 1 cylinder has gone away... now i have a James Bond machine really good at smoke screens


Damn.


engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #910, 08-30-2015 06:38 PM
      well Patrick it is my own fault but a new bullet / engine will make it all better and i really think that cylinder was hurting from the get go it always smoked on start up and that plug was was a bit dark every time i pulled it

countach711 (johngates@hotmail.com) MSG #911, 08-30-2015 06:55 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by engine man:

well going to v grind the cracks and fill then sand the rear bumper


depending on depth of scratches, I'd use one of SEM's flexible filler products like this:
http://www.oreillyauto.com/...s&pt=N0481&ppt=C0171

I tried an iron and plastic melt filler but the Fiero's plastic produced an oil that prevented any new plastic from bonding where I couldn't peel it off. Have had great success with the SEM filler though.



engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #912, 08-30-2015 07:23 PM
      i will take care of that bumper as the car is going into the shop and body will be taken off and painted

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #913, 08-30-2015 08:15 PM
      i would like to Nikasil the cylinders on my mock up engine but so far that cost way to much from what i can see

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #914, 08-30-2015 09:38 PM
      well i am going to try and rehone the cylinder that i dont like in the mock up block then i will lap it in with Sunnen lapping compound and felts on the hone instead of stones did this along time a go in machinest school on a Mercedes block and restore the Alusil cylinder wall

[This message has been edited by engine man (edited 08-30-2015).]

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #915, 08-31-2015 12:41 PM
      Wow my brain is going round and round on how to handle this problem as i look at the engine i have on the stand and i don't like what i see my brain go's from getting another engine and fixing it to selling all the Audi stuff and going Small Block Chevy


Will (william.lucke@gmail.com) MSG #916, 09-01-2015 08:09 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by engine man:

well i am going to try and rehone the cylinder that i dont like in the mock up block then i will lap it in with Sunnen lapping compound and felts on the hone instead of stones did this along time a go in machinest school on a Mercedes block and restore the Alusil cylinder wall



That works with Alusil but will *NOT* work on a non-Alusil block with a Nikasil coating.

 
quote
Originally posted by engine man:

Wow my brain is going round and round on how to handle this problem as i look at the engine i have on the stand and i don't like what i see my brain go's from getting another engine and fixing it to selling all the Audi stuff and going Small Block Chevy


Here's your chance to get the 360 horse S6/S8 version of the Audi engine.

If you go Chevy, you'll have to go back to transverse and basically everything you've done will be wasted.


engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #917, 09-01-2015 08:10 PM
      well i decided to take the engine i had on the stand apart and hone it and lap the cylinders to see how it looks if the cylinders that look bad clean up then i will get new rings and put them in






engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #918, 09-02-2015 08:31 PM
      the block is Alusil so i could do the honing but i was considering having the cylinder walls Niksill coated but after i found out it is $200 a cylinder i think not and why would i do a S8 engine it would have 360 HP and with the A8 engine with the blower set up i should be able to reach 500 HP at the crank I really should have a turbo but i like blowers . I am going to more than likely go pick up a engine this weekend due to i am finding parts are Very pricey and i can sell enough off this engine to pay for a good yard engine

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #919, 09-03-2015 08:35 AM
      I could do a Small block Chevy longitudinal but i would have to move the firewall forward 4 to 5 inches and put the gas tank up front maybe when i am done with this one i will do that just to prove it can be done

Will (william.lucke@gmail.com) MSG #920, 09-04-2015 08:11 PM
      You could put the blower on the S8 engine, too...

In a few apps, Audi turbo'd 8 cylinder engines from the factory. Those manifolds mount the turbos basically straight behind the cylinder heads, above and outboard of the bellhousing. Do you have room to do that in your car?

The C5 RS6 for example had 450 HP stock.


engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #921, 09-04-2015 08:32 PM
      i am not sure if i have enough room for the turbo but i have the supecharger intake all made now . the S8 engine is hard to find and the price is much higher so for the money the A8 engine is a better choice is the A8 the only thing is i wish i would have started with one that has a timing chain not bet and Niksil cylinder bores

Patrick (mnofony@yahoo.com) MSG #922, 09-04-2015 08:37 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by engine man:

...but i have the supercharger intake all made now


And you know there's a bunch of us who are really curious to see how that works out!


engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #923, 09-04-2015 10:29 PM
      Patrick I am sure it will work out fine as the engine it self has had forced induction put on it with turbo charging i just chose to use a supercharger and for intercooling i chose water / meth injection but i know that the proof is in the pudding as they say

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #924, 09-11-2015 09:01 PM
      pictures of supercharger intake




[This message has been edited by engine man (edited 09-11-2015).]

Fats (bradmiles2016@outlook.com) MSG #925, 09-16-2015 10:54 PM
     

Brad


engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #926, 09-19-2015 08:08 PM
      well i have been working hard on getting the mercedes done so i can get that extra money for this project . I know one thing i am having a great time building the car and sharing it with all of you

Patrick (mnofony@yahoo.com) MSG #927, 09-19-2015 11:00 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by engine man:

I know one thing i am having a great time building the car and sharing it with all of you


We appreciate you sharing it with us... and we're all coming over for a spin when you're done!


engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #928, 09-20-2015 11:54 AM
      no problem i would love to give rides

IVANNATINKLE (seanmiller063@gmail.com) MSG #929, 10-15-2015 06:59 PM
      hows the progress coming?

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #930, 10-15-2015 09:22 PM
      I haven't had the money to work on it so for right now nothing is being done but by spring time i will be back on it

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #931, 10-22-2015 08:43 PM
      this is the Engine music i hear when I am driving my Fiero https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zkcATpEJwrQ and that is with the engine with a burnt piston

[This message has been edited by engine man (edited 10-22-2015).]

Patrick (mnofony@yahoo.com) MSG #932, 10-22-2015 11:56 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by engine man:

this is the Engine music i hear when I am driving my Fiero...




If you'd like to share the "music" with us, the video can't be Private.


engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #933, 10-23-2015 08:21 AM
      sorry dint know i did that but it is fixed now

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #934, 10-23-2015 07:44 PM
      i think i will have another engine next week things have been going pretty good at the shop

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #935, 10-24-2015 05:53 PM
      well i bought a borescope to look at number 1 cylinder just to see if i might be able to just hone it and put a new piston in

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #936, 10-25-2015 10:20 AM
      i just orderd the honeing stones , lapping felts & lapping compound so i can re-hone & re-lap the cylinders

dobey MSG #937, 10-25-2015 04:46 PM
      At a local car show yesterday, someone came up and showed us pics of a similar project he's working on. He's stuffing an Audi 1.8 into the back end of a Pontiac Sunfire track car. Looked pretty cool.


engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #938, 10-25-2015 06:01 PM
      so it will be a mid engine Sunfire i would have liked to see that was it automatic or standard transmission

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #939, 10-30-2015 09:24 PM
      I got my borescope for my tablet it cost $10 so tomorrow i will pull #1 spark plug and look at how bad it is and i am going to try taking pictures of it and post them

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #940, 10-31-2015 02:58 PM
      it looks like cylinder #1 might be able to be honed hear are some pictures one is the piston that looks like it was melting on the edge the second is the cylinder wall and piston and the wall has gall lines in it


[This message has been edited by engine man (edited 10-31-2015).]

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #941, 11-01-2015 04:34 PM
      I think when i repair the engine and put it back together i am going to switch to the 01x 6 speed transmission because it is much stronger and can be found in 2005 and up A4 Audi fwd




engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #942, 11-10-2015 11:16 AM
      well after doing some honing on one of the cylinders of the engine that was on my stand it is not looking good i have gained 2 thousands of an inch more clearance but the black pitted area have not gone away yet

[This message has been edited by engine man (edited 11-10-2015).]

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #943, 11-11-2015 08:12 PM
      i found a good deal on a engine and will be buying it as soon as i get paid for a job i have finished

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #944, 11-13-2015 12:38 PM
      the engine is on the way i ordered it today

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #945, 11-14-2015 01:55 PM
      I am getting excited to get this engine i am going to double up the head gaskets to lower the compression ratio down to about 9 to 1 and eventually i will add water / meth injection for cooling of the intake charge i am hoping to have it all back together by the end of January i will be running around 15 pounds of boost

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #946, 11-15-2015 04:09 PM
      Since i have another fast back rear clip i am going to try making a wide body out of it and showing how it will be a low cost method and should look good and be simple to do

LornesGT MSG #947, 11-15-2015 11:48 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by engine man:

Since i have another fast back rear clip i am going to try making a wide body out of it and showing how it will be a low cost method and should look good and be simple to do


I have the same idea but not sure how to go about it, so I will be watching.


engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #948, 11-16-2015 12:30 PM
      i mocked up some of it today and it looks like it is going to work just fine





[This message has been edited by engine man (edited 11-16-2015).]

motoracer838 (jmartin@musicunveiled.com) MSG #949, 11-17-2015 10:44 AM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by engine man:

I think when i repair the engine and put it back together i am going to switch to the 01x 6 speed transmission because it is much stronger and can be found in 2005 and up A4 Audi fwd



What do you know about the gear ratios and torque capacity?

Joe


engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #950, 11-17-2015 06:22 PM
      380 Nm or 280 FT lbs of torque i will try and find the gear ratios i think they had 2 different ring and pinion ratios one is 3.85 the other was 3.55 i think

ttt123 (briandocherty@hotmail.com) MSG #951, 11-17-2015 06:25 PM
      this is a great thread.... but i've sold my fiero and bought a another toy and um... how do you unsubscribe to a thread lol sorry dont hate me lol

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #952, 11-17-2015 06:36 PM
      no hate but i don't know how to unsubscribe but i did get my engine today

ttt123 (briandocherty@hotmail.com) MSG #953, 11-17-2015 06:40 PM
      thats awesome. i gave up on my fiero when i got done wrong on the title... bought a porsche boxster... all is well your really long thread (which does rock by the way) keeps blowing up my email every day lolol so thought i'd just unsubscribe.

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #954, 11-17-2015 07:12 PM
      they put the 4.2 in boxsters you know

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #955, 11-18-2015 01:13 PM
      Final drive 30 : 8 = 3.750 32 : 9= 3.555
i = Z2 : Z1 1st gear 33 : 9 = 3.667 33 : 9 = 3.667
2nd gear 39 : 19 = 2.053 39 : 19 = 2.053
3rd gear 36 : 28 = 1.286 36 : 28 = 1.286
4th gear 31 : 33 = 0.939 31 : 33 = 0.939
5th gear 26 : 37 = 0.703 26 : 37 = 0.703
6th gear 23 : 40 = 0.575 23 : 40 = 0.575
Reverse gear 34 : 10 = 3.400 34 : 10 = 3.400
the 3.55 final drive comes from the 1.9 diesel


engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #956, 11-18-2015 02:27 PM
      Blower Hehehehe




engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #957, 11-19-2015 03:07 PM
      idler pulley and tensioner pulley set up


Patrick (mnofony@yahoo.com) MSG #958, 11-19-2015 03:13 PM
     
We need to get you a better camera.


motoracer838 (jmartin@musicunveiled.com) MSG #959, 11-19-2015 03:14 PM
      Thanks for the info on the 6 speed trans axle, next up I'm noticing there seem to be 2 very different versions of the 4.2 v8, ones like yours with the cam drives in the front and others with the cam drives in back, the latter seems to be a newer design starting around 2000.

what do you know about the newer engines, and do they fit the 6 speed? I'm getting close to being ready to buy parts for the Fauxrrari project.

Thanks, Joe


engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #960, 11-19-2015 03:36 PM
      yes the engines with the chain drive will bolt up from what i am told and they are shorter in length and put out more power they also have a 8 bolt crank flange so finding a manual transmission fly wheel is not a problem . yes my camera sucks on my phone

Patrick (mnofony@yahoo.com) MSG #961, 11-19-2015 04:20 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by engine man:

yes my camera sucks on my phone


It's a shame... as your thread is one of the more interesting ones at PFF, but your images are so pixelated and blurry.

We're allowed to post images here with file sizes as large as 300 KB. Some of your image file sizes are as low as 41 KB.

Are you shooting those images at the highest resolution that your phone allows? If so, are you re-compressing them to death before you upload and post them?

[This message has been edited by Patrick (edited 11-19-2015).]

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #962, 11-19-2015 06:07 PM
      its a cheap straight talk phone

motoracer838 (jmartin@musicunveiled.com) MSG #963, 11-19-2015 06:13 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by engine man:

yes the engines with the chain drive will bolt up from what i am told and they are shorter in length and put out more power they also have a 8 bolt crank flange so finding a manual transmission fly wheel is not a problem . yes my camera sucks on my phone


Thanks, I think I've found one here in Denver with low miles at a good price, I can see a set of 180 degree headers feeding twin turbos, should sound just evil...

Cheers Beers n Gearz, Joe


engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #964, 11-19-2015 06:21 PM
      yes twin turbos will have a great sound i know that i have had many tell me how great the engine sounds and most of them are hotrod guys

fieroguru MSG #965, 11-20-2015 08:22 AM
      The tensioner really should be on the slack side of the belt. The belt tension while trying to pull the supercharger under full boost will pull the tensioner back and cause the belt to slip or be thrown.

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #966, 11-20-2015 09:41 AM
      thanks fieroguru i will have to figure something out

[This message has been edited by engine man (edited 11-20-2015).]

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #967, 11-20-2015 08:15 PM
      i have solved the problem for the pulley and tensioner but i need to build some parts i will build the parts tomorrow and post pictures

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #968, 11-21-2015 01:12 PM
      simple idler pulley bracket finished i need to get the AC pump so the belt runs right and it would be nice to have AC. belt adjustment will be manually done i have bought 2 5/16 heim joints one right hand thread the other left hand thread but they dint have any aluminum hexagon rod to make the adjuster





engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #969, 11-27-2015 02:05 PM
      today i degreased the engine the best i could i use oven cleaner let it sit for about a hour then pressure wash it off nice and clean and tomorrow i am going to replace the timing belt and i think i am going to stack the head gasket so it lowers the compression

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #970, 11-28-2015 05:04 PM
      i started pulling the timing belt but i decided to order a new water pump online it is much cheaper online like 1/3 the cost of auto zone

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #971, 11-29-2015 01:20 PM
      I have decided to not stack the head gaskets after talking to a member over at motorgeek he has supercharged his 4.2 engine and runs 10 pounds of boost through a intercooler and said he sees about 8 pounds at the manifold and has not had any detonation problems he said he is making just over 400 horsepower so i figure with the use of the water / methanol injection i should be fine with the 15 pounds of boost and should be making 550 plus HP just enough to have fun

TommyRocker (tommyrocker88@gmail.com) MSG #972, 11-29-2015 10:47 PM
      Is he running 10 pounds on bone stock, never opened internals? If so, good news. You've got me really liking this swap. Keep plugging away.

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #973, 11-30-2015 10:45 AM
      yes totally stock parts he told me

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #974, 12-04-2015 03:13 PM
      i took all the plugs out of the engine i bought a few week back and did a leak down test and its not good so i pull the head on 1 side and there it is water in one of the cylinders and rusty mud on the top of the piston in another so i dry them out and clean them up then i turn the crank bringing the piston to bottom dead center and there it is pitted cylinder at least a 1/16 inch deep so i call the bone yard i bought it from and send them a picture and thank god they are good they are sending me another engine i bet they check this one out better before they send it

[This message has been edited by engine man (edited 12-04-2015).]

motoracer838 (jmartin@musicunveiled.com) MSG #975, 12-05-2015 09:56 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by engine man:

i took all the plugs out of the engine i bought a few week back and did a leak down test and its not good so i pull the head on 1 side and there it is water in one of the cylinders and rusty mud on the top of the piston in another so i dry them out and clean them up then i turn the crank bringing the piston to bottom dead center and there it is pitted cylinder at least a 1/16 inch deep so i call the bone yard i bought it from and send them a picture and thank god they are good they are sending me another engine i bet they check this one out better before they send it


What a fracking pain in the azz, your not having the best of luck with the 4.2, hope the replacement is good.

Joe


engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #976, 12-05-2015 10:47 PM
      ya you let water sit in any engines cylinders for to long it's not gonna be good

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #977, 12-10-2015 06:19 PM
      well the new engine came in and looks much better no water in the cylinders or in the intake runners like the last engine

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #978, 12-18-2015 12:35 PM
      i just ordered Injector bungs so i can use the more common 14 mm injectors and i ordered up some injectors i plane on having the engine all in and running by the end of January but i don't think i will have the water / methanol injection on so i wont be running it to much and i wont bring it into boost

[This message has been edited by engine man (edited 12-18-2015).]

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #979, 12-19-2015 12:24 PM
      well i put the new timing belt on with a new water pump so that is all set to go now and this next week i don't think there will be much going on in the shop so i should be able to get the engine all ready to go in . I sure have been having fun with this build

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #980, 12-23-2015 11:20 AM
      this is the belt drive i just need to space the 2 idler pulleys out to line up



engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #981, 12-24-2015 11:41 AM
      this is the engine all painted and the only things needed is injectors and they should be in next week


[This message has been edited by engine man (edited 12-24-2015).]

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #982, 12-25-2015 05:20 PM
      Merry Christmas every one

Will (william.lucke@gmail.com) MSG #983, 12-26-2015 09:08 AM
      Merry Christmas.

1. That is a *LONG* belt

2. That idler bracket may not be stiff enough to maintain enough belt tension to drive the blower. Keep an eye on that if you find yourself fighting belt slip or not making as much boost as you should be.


engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #984, 12-26-2015 01:00 PM
      thanks will the belt is 136 long 31 inches longer than stock and i agree the idler bracket is not as strong as i would like so i am going to try to build one out of some 1/2 inch thick aluminum

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #985, 12-26-2015 05:18 PM
      i started to build a new idler pulley bracket and it is just as ugly as the other one i built out of steel but i will shape it and sand it to make it look better and i am going to need some one to weld the aluminum

[This message has been edited by engine man (edited 12-26-2015).]

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #986, 12-29-2015 08:53 AM
      new idler pulley bracket i need to get it welded but it will be much stronger




engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #987, 01-05-2016 03:08 PM
      new idler pulley bracket finished and installed it is much stronger zero deflection




wftb (danjesso@bmts.com) MSG #988, 01-05-2016 05:06 PM
      Your new engine looks awesome .You are going to have enough torque to pull out tree stumps .

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #989, 01-05-2016 06:21 PM
      Thanks wftb, i think i need to upgrade my transmission but i am gonna try this one but i don't think it will last because of what i am told from transmission guys

[This message has been edited by engine man (edited 01-05-2016).]

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #990, 01-06-2016 11:07 AM
      i am going to go look at a 88 notchie non T top chassis and get rid of the T top gt chassis due to i feel the T top flex's with high power

TommyRocker (tommyrocker88@gmail.com) MSG #991, 01-06-2016 03:15 PM
      I'd trade you my roof section for yours so you don't have to get rid of the fastback you already have... Haha

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #992, 01-06-2016 07:02 PM
      I can put a rollcage in and that would stiffen it up

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #993, 01-09-2016 03:01 PM
      well i bought the 88 notchback chassis from onesexyfiero so once i take what i need off the 88 GT T Top i will sell it

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #994, 01-10-2016 09:01 PM
      i have been doing allot of looking at notchback parts and i cant wait but i will just start with going with the stock look other than my engine swap but i do want embrace racing tail lights and head lights




engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #995, 01-16-2016 09:48 PM
      ok the new chassis is in the shop i need to get it cleaned and painted so the work begins

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #996, 01-17-2016 08:38 PM
      well tomorrow i will work on getting the chassis cleaned up and modified for the engine

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #997, 01-18-2016 06:46 PM
      front of car after being painted with por-15




onesexyfiero (kevincdennis@gmail.com) MSG #998, 01-18-2016 08:19 PM
      Good to see that poor 88 getting new life. Already looking better than it did sitting in my father's field.

http://postimg.org/image/gq54ae6o1/

Do me a favor and post info to the 88 database thread.


engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #999, 01-18-2016 08:47 PM
      yes it is i need to take the rear clip off so i can paint the back


engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #1000, 01-19-2016 03:29 PM
      I know my sister must have dropped me on my head and that is why i do the thing i do but i like it

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #1001, 01-22-2016 02:04 PM
      i ordered this on ebay for $50 i think it will look good in the hood


engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #1002, 01-25-2016 07:01 PM
      some pictures of the rear upper frame & trunk it will need some repair so i will get on it as soon as i can





engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #1003, 01-27-2016 06:16 PM
      well saturday i should be able to get the things cleaned up modified and painted then i can start to put it together

IVANNATINKLE (seanmiller063@gmail.com) MSG #1004, 01-31-2016 06:12 PM
      as always man looking GREAT!!!

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #1005, 01-31-2016 06:24 PM
      thanks i just keep plugging away at it i should have it done this summer i think

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #1006, 02-01-2016 07:23 PM
      i was looking at electric power steering pumps today i have found that the Volvo s40 pump from a 2005 and up where priced pretty low i have seen them as low as $30 and i would use a F body rack or is there a better rack or electric pump i was also thinking hydroboost for the brakes

[This message has been edited by engine man (edited 02-01-2016).]

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #1007, 02-02-2016 08:46 PM
      i am slowly working on it i have done the mods that need to be done but have not welded every thing





IVANNATINKLE (seanmiller063@gmail.com) MSG #1008, 02-05-2016 06:59 AM
      I would look into the MR2 PS pump from the Second Generation. I know the steering on them felt decent

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #1009, 02-07-2016 07:56 PM
      i don't think the feel would be the same due to i would be using a F body rack and the pump would be set so it ran at a constant pressure

IVANNATINKLE (seanmiller063@gmail.com) MSG #1010, 02-09-2016 03:31 PM
      AHH valid point good Sir


ericjon262 MSG #1011, 02-16-2016 05:20 PM
      the MR2 pump accepts a VSS input to not run constant speed.

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #1012, 02-16-2016 06:29 PM
      so there must be some sort of brain needed for the MR2 pump to do that and you would need to know the pulse per mile that it works on correct

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #1013, 02-17-2016 11:33 AM
      this is the Volvo pump it is made by Ford i think it hooks up to the vss as well


ericjon262 MSG #1014, 02-17-2016 03:58 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by engine man:

so there must be some sort of brain needed for the MR2 pump to do that and you would need to know the pulse per mile that it works on correct


my understanding is it accepts an 8000 ppm signal.


engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #1015, 02-17-2016 09:15 PM
      i have found some info on the Volvo S40 pump and to make it run you hook up the red + and black - to 12V and the blue gray wire turns it on when hooked to 12V+

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #1016, 02-18-2016 08:29 PM
      hood mod





engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #1017, 03-06-2016 08:07 PM
      well thought i would post that i haven't been doing to much but working and gathering a few parts but plan on getting back at it in then next few weeks

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #1018, 03-12-2016 02:56 PM
      well i am getting close to start putting it together i have chosen a color it is Royal blue pearl i bought bags of the pearl pigment from paint with pearl i will try it over a black base and a white base to see what i like best

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #1019, 03-13-2016 10:42 AM
      I have found that the royal blue pearl must go over black base to look good but it looks great

motoracer838 (jmartin@musicunveiled.com) MSG #1020, 03-18-2016 07:36 PM
      Glad to see your still moving forward with this, I wound up going a different way, picked up a C5 Vette parts car and a Boxster s 6 speed transaxle, I need to pass emissions with the car and from what I could see, reprograming the Audi pcm is a pain that I don't need.

Keep up the good work. Joe


engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #1021, 03-18-2016 08:04 PM
      well hope to see a build thread of what you are doing and i will start putting things together next weekend

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #1022, 03-21-2016 08:29 PM
     


engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #1023, 03-25-2016 11:56 AM
      I am at a bit of a dilemma i just pulled the GT in and looked at it and not sure of what i really want to do, do i put the engine in it or take it all apart and do the notch back it is less work to do the GT and it is in just as good a shape as the notch back but it has a bit of flex due to the T Tops so i would need to address that

TommyRocker (tommyrocker88@gmail.com) MSG #1024, 03-25-2016 06:25 PM
      Look up swapping roof sections. You can swap the t-top section out for the solid roof, without destroying either. Keep the GT together and put the solid roof on it, then sell the t-top stuff to somebody like me who wants a t-top.

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #1025, 03-25-2016 07:39 PM
      i don't want to be cutting cars up a roll cage will stiffen the car up

[This message has been edited by engine man (edited 03-25-2016).]

TommyRocker (tommyrocker88@gmail.com) MSG #1026, 03-26-2016 09:41 AM
      Then I'd vote sell the t top car and use the other car.

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #1027, 03-26-2016 03:34 PM
      today the engine tomorrow the front end


engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #1028, 03-27-2016 05:17 PM
      well i have thee front suspension out and i just need a bit more off the GT then it will be sold

dobey MSG #1029, 03-27-2016 06:23 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by engine man:

i don't want to be cutting cars up a roll cage will stiffen the car up



Why not weld in X-bracing under the car? This is what others have done for roadster builds for example. See http://www.fiero.nl/forum/F.../HTML/000055.html#p1


engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #1030, 03-27-2016 07:47 PM
      yes dobey i could have done that but i am just not feeling the T Top thing and like i said it is apart now with just a few things left i need to take from it then some one who wants it can put the time into repairing it or cutting off the t tops for there car

wftb (danjesso@bmts.com) MSG #1031, 03-27-2016 07:49 PM
      I am not a big fan of X bracing .It is prone to twisting corner to corner and takes up valuable space unde the car .I think Archie built a Finale kit car roadster and he added intregral bracing in the rocker panels and beefed up the areas fore and aft of the doors.Much stronger and a cleaner install .

Neils88 (nellerin@dal.ca) MSG #1032, 03-27-2016 07:56 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by wftb:

I am not a big fan of X bracing .It is prone to twisting corner to corner and takes up valuable space unde the car .I think Archie built a Finale kit car roadster and he added intregral bracing in the rocker panels and beefed up the areas fore and aft of the doors.Much stronger and a cleaner install .


I agree, X bracing actually does very little. Rocker bracing is good, but additionally, the best bracing is along the top of the gas tank tunnel, tied into the front and rear firewalls.


engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #1033, 03-28-2016 10:39 PM
      well i got the front end cleaned but not painted so i will paint it when i have time tomorrow, i also noticed that i will need to move the firewall at the top to about 6 inches down and just between the 2 deck lid hinges i only need a 1/2 inch for the pulley to clear but since i am going to move it i will do 2 inches so my wiring has room . i will make it tapper from 2 inches at the top to zero at the bottom 6 inches down.

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #1034, 03-31-2016 08:51 PM
      well i had a few minutes at the end of the day so i put the front suspension back in had a little hard time with the steering shaft as it had some rust om the inside that slides over the shaft that comes out of the rack i am hoping to get the engine cradle all cleaned up and painted and put the new engine on and mod the firewall and put that in this weekend then i can move on to making the wiring look good

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #1035, 04-03-2016 12:49 PM
      well i ordered up a new clutch , pressure plate & throw out bearing since i have it apart i thought it would be a good time to do this. i have cut the firewall now i just need to weld in the steel but i just wanted to relax today

[This message has been edited by engine man (edited 04-03-2016).]

Patrick (mnofony@yahoo.com) MSG #1036, 04-03-2016 02:20 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by engine man:

...but i just wanted to relax today.


There's no rest for the wicked.

I'm enjoying following your progress.


engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #1037, 04-04-2016 05:59 PM
      had some time to kill so started on the firewall mod



engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #1038, 04-04-2016 10:04 PM
      Hi i need to know what i should use to bond the hood vent / scoop down to the hood and the rockers to the front fender both are made of fiber glass

RCR (rcrabine@comcast.net) MSG #1039, 04-05-2016 07:40 PM
      I'm using Evercote SMC panel adhesive.

http://www.tcpglobal.com/FI...48P8HAQ#.VwROJ6QrKUk

Bob

[This message has been edited by RCR (edited 04-05-2016).]

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #1040, 04-05-2016 08:31 PM
      thanks for the info i will look for it at the parts stores i deal with

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #1041, 04-06-2016 08:44 PM
      surprisingly my new clutch ,pressure plate & throw out bearing came in so i should be able to put that all together and put the engine up in the car this weekend and i might even get started on wiring .

[This message has been edited by engine man (edited 04-06-2016).]

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #1042, 04-07-2016 06:25 PM
      well the trany is on and it is on the cradle


engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #1043, 04-08-2016 02:14 PM
      good thing i moved that firewall i only have about a 1/2 inch between the pulley and firewall


[This message has been edited by engine man (edited 04-08-2016).]

motoracer838 (jmartin@musicunveiled.com) MSG #1044, 04-08-2016 04:41 PM
      That is tight...

Joe


engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #1045, 04-08-2016 05:39 PM
      yup it is a tight fit but it is all under the deck lid so no one will know

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #1046, 04-09-2016 03:31 PM
      worked on the wiring and i now have the injectors wired to the megasquirt i will wire up the ignition coils tomorrow

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #1047, 04-11-2016 06:24 PM
      today i cut away all the wires that i will not need on the old fiero harness as i am putting the megasquirt ecu in the trunk area

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #1048, 04-14-2016 09:13 PM
      Have any of you tried Extreme tape it is rated to 500 degrees F and it has no glue and you heat it to get it to bond i am going to try it on the wiring harness i am hoping for good results

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #1049, 04-15-2016 10:33 PM
      well i tried some of the tape and it work good i will finish putting the harness together and then use it . the only thing i don't like about it is you have to cut off a length of it to be able to wrap the wiring it is hard to use right off the roll but i will take pictures off the harness when done

doublec4 (doublec4@hotmail.com) MSG #1050, 04-16-2016 09:14 AM
      Where did you buy this "extreme tape"

Any pictures of it?

By the way, great work on the build. I check back periodically... it's going to be quite the beast!

[This message has been edited by doublec4 (edited 04-16-2016).]

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #1051, 04-16-2016 02:11 PM
      i bought it on Amazon

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #1052, 04-20-2016 08:15 PM
      thought i would post a few pictures of the wiring i still need to wirer the TPS and knock sensor and wore power wires and ground wires then i can wrap the harness





engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #1053, 04-22-2016 11:46 AM
      Wow I just found this info last night this transmission comes from a Acura Legend it would allow you to do a LS or SBC longitudinal it comes as a 5 speed standard or a 6 speed and a 4 speed slush box as you can see the diff is mounted more like a THM 425 from GM




engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #1054, 04-23-2016 09:02 PM
      i just need to wire the knock sensor but i am taking the weekend off but on Monday i will wire that up and should be able to finish the wiring then i will give it a test before wrapping it then put some oil in it and fire it up

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #1055, 04-26-2016 04:26 PM
      i have a few ground wires and one power wire left then i can finish wrapping the wires i do like this tape i am using




engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #1056, 04-27-2016 07:22 PM
      Well today was a sad day as my mother passed away at the age of 86 she had Alzheimer for over 10 years she fought hard and passed quick and with little pain due to the great program and nurses to make sure she was not hurting in the end

Neils88 (nellerin@dal.ca) MSG #1057, 04-27-2016 07:24 PM
      So sorry to hear about your loss. Our thoughts and prayers are with you and your family.

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #1058, 04-27-2016 10:45 PM
      Thanks Neils88 i just cant say enough great things about my Mom and I will miss her

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #1059, 04-28-2016 06:08 PM
      today i tested the megasquirt and wiring the only thing i have wrong is 2 wires on the tps just need to swap the ground and 5 volt positive and i need to run a injector and ignition test

motoracer838 (jmartin@musicunveiled.com) MSG #1060, 04-28-2016 07:38 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by engine man:

Well today was a sad day as my mother passed away at the age of 86 she had Alzheimer for over 10 years she fought hard and passed quick and with little pain due to the great program and nurses to make sure she was not hurting in the end


I lost my grandmother to Alzheimer's a long time ago, it was very painful to watch her slip away, you and your family have my condolences.

Joe



engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #1061, 04-28-2016 08:26 PM
      motoracer838 it isn't so bad at first when they are just forgetful but in the end when they become like a vegetable and can not talk or move and even getting them to just eat because they don't know how to anymore and they have no clue who you are and don't even know you are in the room with them it makes you sad for them

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #1062, 05-01-2016 06:22 PM
      well i fixed the 2 wires on the tps and the wiring is done and i put the exhaust on so now i just need to plumb up the fuel lines and coolant lines and vacuum line then add some oil and battery and start it up


1shot (glamirand@yahoo.com) MSG #1063, 05-01-2016 09:58 PM
      Mark,
Sorry to hear about your Mom.
Looks like that tape is working well, I may just have to give it a try.
George


engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #1064, 05-03-2016 11:57 AM
      thanks 1shot and the tape works really well i would buy it again

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #1065, 05-03-2016 07:02 PM
      a few new pictures




1shot (glamirand@yahoo.com) MSG #1066, 05-04-2016 12:14 AM
      Good call on the header wrap, it makes a pretty good difference in the engine bay. You can actually touch the exhaust with the engine running.

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #1067, 05-04-2016 12:50 PM
      yep i like the header wrap they had it in many colors bought it on ebay for $15 for 50 ft roll

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #1068, 05-04-2016 12:55 PM
      has any of you tried this intellitronix digital create a dash kit like on ebay http://www.ebay.com/itm/291...e=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

wftb (danjesso@bmts.com) MSG #1069, 05-04-2016 01:24 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by engine man:

Wow I just found this info last night this transmission comes from a Acura Legend it would allow you to do a LS or SBC longitudinal it comes as a 5 speed standard or a 6 speed and a 4 speed slush box as you can see the diff is mounted more like a THM 425 from GM




I had no idea the legend had this kind of drivetrain .I always thought they were rear wheel drive . That is really interesting , I found Legends for as cheap as 500.00 on kijijii ontario . Thanks for posting this , I wonder what the whole assembly weighs .

[This message has been edited by wftb (edited 05-04-2016).]

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #1070, 05-04-2016 02:13 PM
      i like that it is set up for rear mount starter so the flywheel just needs to be made with the Honda ring gear

[This message has been edited by engine man (edited 05-04-2016).]

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #1071, 05-04-2016 06:08 PM
      the Acura Legend transmission and differential weighs around 150 Lbs from what i can find

fieroguru MSG #1072, 05-04-2016 07:26 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by engine man:

i like that it is set up for rear mount starter so the flywheel just needs to be made with the Honda ring gear



I like that the differential could be swapped out with one from another MFG with a more appropriate final drive. Plus it would be rather simple to install a small drive shaft to get it out from under the engine and can flip the diff and use it for an extended wheel base mid engine setup.

Lots of possibilities... All it needs to be even better is for the output shaft from the transmission go out the backside as well for AWD applications.


engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #1073, 05-04-2016 08:14 PM
      look it can have a shaft on the back side so you could do AWD i think just remove the plug that is next to the bolt they have circled

[This message has been edited by engine man (edited 05-04-2016).]

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #1074, 05-06-2016 09:39 PM
      Saturday i will be trying to get this to start up and have a video posted if i get it running

Will (william.lucke@gmail.com) MSG #1075, 05-07-2016 08:05 AM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by engine man:

look it can have a shaft on the back side so you could do AWD i think just remove the plug that is next to the bolt they have circled





Well... you'd have to figure out how to put a diff rather than a spool in that side housing if you were to do AWD.
However, it would be find for use "Lambo Style" with the pulleys to the back, the transmission ahead of the engine and the diff back by the pulleys


engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #1076, 05-08-2016 02:31 PM
      well did some work on it but dint get it done enough to start and have a few things on order

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #1077, 05-08-2016 06:44 PM
      back to work the weekend is over need make some money to spend on the addiction

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #1078, 05-10-2016 08:45 PM
      ? what diameter are the fiero manual transmission cables i have found some 1/4 and 10-32

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #1079, 05-11-2016 09:32 PM
      well i ordered the 1/4 inch cables so we will see how it works out they where $50 each at 102 long

1shot (glamirand@yahoo.com) MSG #1080, 05-12-2016 05:59 PM
      Hope those cables work out for you. If they do, I might have to order some myself. What kind of shifter did you use and was it a 5 or 6 speed?

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #1081, 05-12-2016 07:13 PM
      using stock fiero 5 speed shifter 1shot did you get your transmission and start on your car

[This message has been edited by engine man (edited 05-12-2016).]

1shot (glamirand@yahoo.com) MSG #1082, 05-12-2016 09:21 PM
      Yes, I did. Also got the adapter from KEG.

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #1083, 05-12-2016 09:40 PM
      so how is it going have you started on it yet ? and how much was the adapter and what came with it

[This message has been edited by engine man (edited 05-12-2016).]

Kemp3 (jckemp3@sonic.net) MSG #1084, 05-12-2016 11:14 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by engine man:

Wow I just found this info last night this transmission comes from a Acura Legend it would allow you to do a LS or SBC longitudinal it comes as a 5 speed standard or a 6 speed and a 4 speed slush box as you can see the diff is mounted more like a THM 425 from GM




I am not 100% certain but I believe the Legends engine spins CW. Just a heads up to try and verify you don't end up with 5 reverse gears .



1shot (glamirand@yahoo.com) MSG #1085, 05-13-2016 04:41 AM
      Actually, I have started on it. I've got the top chopped and the front clip shortened while waiting for the adapter.
This week I've been working on the rear engine compartment and modified the cradle to accept the longitudinal positioning of the SBC.
I've done something a little different in modifying the rear. Something I haven't seen here on Pennocks. Keeping my fingers crossed it's not a complete failure.
The adapter was a little pricey, but they make a top shelf product. It cost $2000 with pressure plate, clutch plate and starter.


engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #1086, 05-13-2016 03:47 PM
      finished wiring





engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #1087, 05-14-2016 01:33 PM
      it starts on starting fluid now i need to put fuel in it and plug in the fuel pumps and get it to run

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #1088, 05-14-2016 06:04 PM
      i had a leak so i have to put a new fuel filter and fuel line

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #1089, 05-15-2016 03:13 PM
      one thing i must make is a air intake tube that go's from 6 inch oval to 3 1/2 inch round i think i know how to do this. one way is to take a 3.5 to 4.5 exhaust reducer and squashing the 5 inch side down so it ends up at 6 inches wide by about 3 inches tall

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #1090, 05-16-2016 11:58 AM
      Dam injectors not firing well time to start testing them i know the ignition works as it start every time with starting fluid but i have tried to do a injector test that did not work

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #1091, 05-16-2016 07:53 PM
      megasquirt not firing the injectors i am getting sick of this pos

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #1092, 05-17-2016 08:32 PM
      i am starting to think i am going to have to buy a peak & hold injector driver box

Will (william.lucke@gmail.com) MSG #1093, 05-17-2016 10:29 PM
      Are you trying to drive Low Z injectors with High Z drivers? Do you keep burning out injector drivers?

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #1094, 05-17-2016 10:39 PM
      I thought the same thing Will but i did a ohm check on the injectors as well as looked up what they were and they were high z and ohm tested at over 11 ohms

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #1095, 05-18-2016 05:50 PM
      found the problem now it runs and here is the video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P4nroMOQfKU

motoracer838 (jmartin@musicunveiled.com) MSG #1096, 05-18-2016 08:52 PM
      OMG, dude, that thing sounds wicked...

Good work. Joe


engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #1097, 05-18-2016 09:01 PM
      thanks i thought it sounded good and responsive just need it to burn off the rest of the Marvel Mystery oil and the rest of the oil that was in the exhaust from the other engine

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #1098, 05-20-2016 09:57 PM
      well i will be plumbing the cooling system and do what i need to do to the shifter for the new cables as i got 3 inch stroke cables and only needed 2 inch but nothing a little steel and welding wont fix

1shot (glamirand@yahoo.com) MSG #1099, 05-21-2016 04:50 AM
      Hey Mark,
Sounds real good. Good to see you making progress. Can you get some pics of those cables? And where did you purchase them from?
George


onesexyfiero (kevincdennis@gmail.com) MSG #1100, 05-21-2016 09:14 AM
      Looking, and sounding really good, Mark. I haven't been posting, but I have been lurking and keeping tabs on that chassis.

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #1101, 05-21-2016 12:27 PM
      i will post some pitcher's of the cables a bit latter and and the web link and thank you both for your words of encouragement

[This message has been edited by engine man (edited 05-21-2016).]

Bozzie (widerisbetter88@aol.com) MSG #1102, 05-21-2016 01:38 PM
      Music to the ears !! Nice Job

Boz


Patrick (mnofony@yahoo.com) MSG #1103, 05-21-2016 01:51 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by engine man:

found the problem now it runs and here is the video




Won't be any mosquitoes left alive in your garage after that! Hopefully the smoking does stop. Sounds great.

[This message has been edited by Patrick (edited 05-21-2016).]

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #1104, 05-21-2016 04:05 PM
      well i ran out of welding wire and needed some more parts to do the cooling system so i snapped a few shots of the cables and made another short video of the mosquito killer lol https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=99TVb-R0qxs



the web site for the cables http://steinjager.com/shop/...tierSeven=&home=true

[This message has been edited by engine man (edited 05-21-2016).]

Patrick (mnofony@yahoo.com) MSG #1105, 05-21-2016 04:42 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by engine man:

... made another short video of the mosquito killer lol




Damn, grease that door hinge!

[This message has been edited by Patrick (edited 05-21-2016).]

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #1106, 05-21-2016 05:25 PM
      No i am not greasing it lol

[This message has been edited by engine man (edited 05-21-2016).]

FIEROPHREK MSG #1107, 05-22-2016 08:27 AM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by engine man:

No i am not greasing it lol



Perhaps WD40? Aerokroil?

Your swap sounds awesome! I'm definitely looking forward to seeing this car on the road!



engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #1108, 05-22-2016 02:51 PM
      lol ok ok i will oil it or grease it . well today I finished the shifter and coolant tube plumbing

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #1109, 05-22-2016 08:23 PM
      you know it gives me a sense of pride like all the folks who build something you put your heart and soul into so it feels great when your peers approve of it

Patrick (mnofony@yahoo.com) MSG #1110, 05-22-2016 09:12 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by engine man:

...it feels great when your peers approve of it


This swap is super-cool. It's so different. Although I haven't posted a whole lot in this thread, I look very forward to every update!


engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #1111, 05-23-2016 12:23 PM
      Thanks Patrick

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #1112, 05-23-2016 06:00 PM
      a few mods made to the shifter i had to move the cable attachments back and remove the pins the cables attach



engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #1113, 05-26-2016 12:10 PM
      well the shifter is all in and hooked up i had to do 1 mod to the cable bracket on the transmission and i now know i could have used 90 inch cables with 2 inch throws

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #1114, 05-28-2016 03:49 PM
      new upper pulley ordered 2.625 this should put me in the 12 psi boost rang i think

doublec4 (doublec4@hotmail.com) MSG #1115, 05-29-2016 03:41 PM
      Sounds bad ass! Can't wait to hear some videos of it actually under load

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #1116, 05-29-2016 08:19 PM
      thanks doublec4 i took today off from working on it and will be back on it tomorrow and depending on my what i can spend this month on it it could be on the road by the end of June

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #1117, 05-30-2016 02:35 PM
      battery is all in now


engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #1118, 06-03-2016 04:26 PM
      I have decided once i get all i need off my 88 gt T top car i will give it away for free with T Tops intact i think the car could be rebuilt if you want to take the time to repair some of the places i cut or just take it for the T Tops but the whole car must leave I will let every one know when i am done with it

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #1119, 06-04-2016 06:03 PM
      worked on the brake lines today and will finish them up tomorrow and i will put the axles and rear struts back in if i had a throttle cable bracket i could drive it around the yard but i need to find some parts so i can fab something up

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #1120, 06-09-2016 11:27 AM
      wow i am down to 3 things before i start on body and interior and that is throttle cable bracket , exhaust hanger's and the 2 rear bolts on the front K member need to be put back in . it is going better than i thought it would and i have never worked on a fiero that was taken apart this much .

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #1121, 06-10-2016 06:24 PM
      it is now down on all four tires so i will start on the body and interior

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #1122, 06-11-2016 04:23 PM
      today i made the throttle cable bracket it came out nice but i dint have the cell phone with me to take some pitchers i will do that tomorrow i should be able to drive it over to the other bay and put it on the lift so i can do a few things like tie the battery cable up and secure the brake line that rums to the rear and do the exhaust hangers all just minor things but need doing . i am not sure if i want to use the rear quarter with rockers i don't think they are built by V8 Archie but they need work i hope i can get the nose to fit better than i could on the last car as it was low in spots compared to the hood and was not really that impressed with the fit of it for what i paid for it

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #1123, 06-11-2016 08:01 PM
     


engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #1124, 06-12-2016 05:50 PM
      next up is body and paint



engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #1125, 06-14-2016 09:46 AM
      well i just need to remove the rear bumper ,windshield washer tank , over flow tank & interior and the 88 GT T Top can go down the road

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #1126, 06-15-2016 06:35 PM
      well i have learned that i need more belt wrap on the blower pulley and i am going to send out the pulley to have it carbon coated from carbinite Metal coating it makes the belt wear faster but it gives grip due to the rough surface there web site http://carbinite.com/

[This message has been edited by engine man (edited 06-15-2016).]

1shot (glamirand@yahoo.com) MSG #1127, 06-15-2016 08:00 PM
      That's got to be a pretty tight squeeze in there just to remove that pulley. Or do you drop the back of the cradle to make more room?

[This message has been edited by 1shot (edited 06-15-2016).]

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #1128, 06-15-2016 08:06 PM
      drop the back of cradle you cant do it with out doing that it is easy as it is 2 bolt no big deal

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #1129, 06-17-2016 04:22 PM
      Wow i need to find some one who likes body work as i am about excited to do it as getting cancer

[This message has been edited by engine man (edited 06-17-2016).]

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #1130, 06-21-2016 08:13 PM
      well i have been working on the front end body work and it looks like i am going to have to modify the fiberglass front bumper to fit right . it just not the right contour between the bumper and hood it is way to close in the middle in fact it is overlapping to where it is about perfect out at the edges but it is also to low in the middle compared to the hood so it is going to take some fiddling around to get it right .

[This message has been edited by engine man (edited 06-21-2016).]

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #1131, 06-23-2016 11:13 AM
      Fiero hood vent's getting installed sure glad i have that air file




engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #1132, 06-26-2016 09:06 PM
      i want to thank onesexyfiero for stopping by with 2 great quarter panels and 2 rocker now i have all the body parts so let the fun begin

[This message has been edited by engine man (edited 06-26-2016).]

onesexyfiero (kevincdennis@gmail.com) MSG #1133, 06-27-2016 07:27 PM
      No problem.

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #1134, 06-29-2016 10:54 AM
      Bozzie picked up the 88 blue GT T Top today i can't wait to see what he does with it

Bozzie (widerisbetter88@aol.com) MSG #1135, 06-29-2016 07:04 PM
      Mark, it was nice to meet you today. Thank you for helping my dad and I load the car on the trailer. Super enjoyed checking out your ride. Seeing pictures doesn't do it justice ! Just super cool what you've done and hope to one day join you in a caravan to Carlisle !

Boz


engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #1136, 06-29-2016 08:00 PM
      Bozzie it was great meeting you and your dad i enjoyed having some Fiero guys around as they are far and few way up in my parts there are a few but not many

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #1137, 06-30-2016 07:39 PM
      well i need to get back working on the body of the car i will try to get the hood and front bumper cover all sorted out then the rest should fall into place just need to sand and primer surfacer the rest then wet sand and paint then put it all together

[This message has been edited by engine man (edited 06-30-2016).]

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #1138, 07-01-2016 03:08 PM
      today i was under the 87 GT to do a oil change and to look for the rattle from the heat shield when i saw that it had a 88 cradle stuffed under it but they dint use the kit for up top on the struts but the car is for sale

[This message has been edited by engine man (edited 07-03-2016).]

lateFormula MSG #1139, 07-01-2016 05:15 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by engine man:
well i need to get back working on the body of the car i will try to get the hood and front bumper cover all sorted out then the rest should fall into place just need to sand and primer surfacer the rest then wet sand and paint then put it all together


Yeah... Four years and 29 pages of this thread and you still do not have a functional car? Wow that is slooooow (emphasis on slow).


engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #1140, 07-01-2016 06:05 PM
      hmm did have it running but wanted more and din't want t tops so maybe you should read some of the other threads where they never had a running car. so i am rebuilding it and since you seem to be so smart maybe you can work out how it all should be done on a one of a kind build

[This message has been edited by engine man (edited 07-03-2016).]

Patrick (mnofony@yahoo.com) MSG #1141, 07-01-2016 07:49 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by lateFormula:

Yeah... Four years and 29 pages of this thread and you still do not have a functional car? Wow that is slooooow (emphasis on slow).


...

I really hope you're just good-naturedly teasing engine man.


Bozzie (widerisbetter88@aol.com) MSG #1142, 07-02-2016 04:00 PM
      Now this Ticks ME off ^^^^^ up there. I don't know many Fiero "builders" in person but on this site I believe we come together on many levels. You can BAG anybody for a timeline on there build. BUT , you may never know the man behind it, and there drive and dedication to it. People come to my shop sometimes and joke about the timeline but once they see it then they understand it. Thou MANY may never even think of tackling something on the scales that we do. Anyone can just buy a car , and that's that......but when you build it.......and drive it, tweek it, and make it something else.....now thats a rare bread of mechanic. What Mark is doing is not a project for the faint, its something that takes the Biggest Balls, just to start on a project like that, and if you could see the love in his eyes and hands when he talks about it or anyone else that is building there dream, then it all comes together. Sometimes its not the destination, were getting to , its working with our hands and figuring it out , learning, and dealing with all sorts of problems, roadblocks , and frustrations. and the little victorys within them. Have a GREAT 4th everyone !!

Boz


engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #1143, 07-02-2016 04:13 PM
      A big thanks Bozzie as i know you and many others have this passion for building a Fiero or any car or anything you pour your heart and soul into

ericjon262 MSG #1144, 07-03-2016 02:27 AM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by lateFormula:


Yeah... Four years and 29 pages of this thread and you still do not have a functional car? Wow that is slooooow (emphasis on slow).

Years ago, I never thought I would find myself sticking up for engine man, because he had a thread going about every possible engine and transmission combo out there, and when he posted this thread, I said "yeah right..." but he did it, build a running and driving car, that sounds pretty mean I might add, and continues to make improvements that most would never attempt. How many longitudinal manual trans supercharged DOHC V8 swaps without a stretch are out there? oh yeah, one, this one.

to engine man, this may only be my second or so post in your thread, but I've been watching, keep it up.




engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #1145, 07-03-2016 07:17 AM
      Thanks ericjon262 i am glad i stuck to my guns on this build and like every one who builds one they have there highs and lows and some times you just need to take a brake from them

1shot (glamirand@yahoo.com) MSG #1146, 07-03-2016 07:54 AM
      I have to wonder if the person who made the "slow" comment even read the entire thread, because if he had, he would realize that Mark has had this car running and driving. He's only disassembled and reassembled to make it even better.
Keep it up, Mark


engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #1147, 07-03-2016 10:26 PM
      Thanks 1shot and how is your project shaping up anything new?

1shot (glamirand@yahoo.com) MSG #1148, 07-03-2016 11:14 PM
      It's pretty hard to get much done down here in the summer. Gets extremely hot in my garage, up in the low 90's, so my time in the garage is limited to a few hours early in the morning. I plan to remedy that situation this coming winter with some insulation. Then maybe I can use the air conditioner I installed a couple of months ago. I installed new hinge pins today. Next I'm going to change the roofline to better suit the style I'm after.

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #1149, 07-04-2016 06:47 AM
      i know what you are talking about i lived in FL for 5 years and i would do some work outside and be done by no latter than 10 am and it looked like someone poured a bucket of water on me

TommyRocker (tommyrocker88@gmail.com) MSG #1150, 07-05-2016 03:56 PM
      I've been keeping an eye on this thread and it's been really cool watching the progress and watching you problem solve. I appreciate you sharing your project with us. I saw you adapted the Porsche shift linkage. Any chance you have pictures of what the original linkage looked like on the trans?

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #1151, 07-05-2016 08:22 PM
      this transmission came in the boxster vw passat and audi A4 so the boxster stuff just bolted on but i did not have any of the passat linkage so i haven't any pictures of that

motoracer838 (jmartin@musicunveiled.com) MSG #1152, 07-05-2016 10:55 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by lateFormula:


Yeah... Four years and 29 pages of this thread and you still do not have a functional car? Wow that is slooooow (emphasis on slow).


Ok, let's see your work, some of us have a life outside of the shop... sometimes that life gets in the way...

Joe


engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #1153, 07-07-2016 04:38 PM
      well i started working on the front bumper cover to make it fit right i hate fiberglass but any way i should have it finished up and looking good tomorrow then i just need to finish the hood and do a complete sanding of the body then prime it with primer surfacer wet sand with block and squirt color then ghost pearl or royal blue pearl i know i wont know what i am going to do until i do it

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #1154, 07-09-2016 04:33 PM
      i was hoping to get the front end into primer by tomorrow but it is raining and it is going good but just a bit slow just like all body work does as i have found out through the years the longer you take the better it comes out

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #1155, 07-10-2016 01:46 PM
      Again it is raining out so no painting

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #1156, 07-13-2016 07:07 PM
      well i went and had a color mixed up today i ended up with a color i dint even expect to pick it was sunset orange pearl but i can see it in my mind and it looks great lol

1shot (glamirand@yahoo.com) MSG #1157, 07-13-2016 08:02 PM
      That sounds like a great color, can't wait to see what it looks like.

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #1158, 07-13-2016 08:21 PM
      this is it


1shot (glamirand@yahoo.com) MSG #1159, 07-13-2016 08:27 PM
      Dang....all I'm getting is X's and no pictures.
My 87 is painted a sunrise yellow. It was a little on the bright side when I first painted it, but it kind of grows on you after time.

[This message has been edited by 1shot (edited 07-13-2016).]

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #1160, 07-13-2016 08:35 PM
      well dont know what to tell you on the x i see all the pictures fine

TommyRocker (tommyrocker88@gmail.com) MSG #1161, 07-14-2016 03:05 PM
      Something like this?

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #1162, 07-14-2016 03:21 PM
      that is really close but what i have is a little darker and reddish it actually is a Honda CR-V color as i found out after i have been working on the hood repairing a mistake i made on the extractor




engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #1163, 07-25-2016 01:51 PM
      oh boy that was close i was getting ready to send stuff out for paint when i saw this i bought the doors and rear section i will use my front fenders and front nose & hood




engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #1164, 07-25-2016 06:21 PM
      one of things i am thinking is grafting in the GT fastback roof as the fast back part looks really flat and i still have a GT fastback roof i cut with that fast back section

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #1165, 07-25-2016 07:14 PM
      ok these are the parts i am going to mix together

this nose

with these head lights

and my hood from above i am not sure if i will put the rear spoiler on i will have to take a look to see if i like it and i am not trying to make anything that but what looks good to me i know some will be appealed by this and some might like it

[This message has been edited by engine man (edited 07-25-2016).]

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #1166, 07-30-2016 08:44 PM
      ahh darn waiting to pick up the body he said it would be 2 weeks but it will be more like 3 due to i wont be able to pick up until the weekend so i have about 2 more weeks to wait


engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #1167, 07-31-2016 03:13 PM
      I have been looking and looking at interiors due to i do not have one and would be the perfect time to do something nice so i am asking what non stock interior have you put in how long did it take you and how much did it cost you

RCR (rcrabine@comcast.net) MSG #1168, 07-31-2016 06:25 PM
      It's a WIP, but currently I have a '01 GA dash, with '16 ATS seats. That's about it, really. I had a custom door panel, but I'm going to redo it eventually.

Really, if you want something timeless and custom, check out Amida's newest dash or his 355 stuff. Amazing attention to detail. Hook that up with Mr Mike's covers and new carpet. Good to go.

Bob


engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #1169, 08-01-2016 08:31 AM
      RCR Amida stuff is supper nice but i just can't afford it but i wish i could i need to stick with like a Camaro interior

TommyRocker (tommyrocker88@gmail.com) MSG #1170, 08-01-2016 10:07 AM
      I think the Miata dash looks nice. Nice clean design and you can cover it in leather something if you want it to look a little fancier. http://www.fiero.nl/forum/A...160323-2-108830.html

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #1171, 08-01-2016 08:09 PM
      The Miata looks good as do a lot of dash swaps

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #1172, 08-05-2016 10:09 AM
      well i go and pick up the body parts tomorrow and i am hoping to get paint on it all by the end of the month

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #1173, 08-06-2016 04:34 PM
      i went and picked up the Testarossa rear body and doors and i can tell you i have allot of work to do as it was not a great kit from the start but it was installed like crap

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #1174, 08-07-2016 02:55 PM
      well i messed with the rear body and hung the doors and put the front end i am going to use and i think it is going to look good and it gives me a wide body for just $300 . i have 245 on the rear but i need to go allot wider it is looking like about 13 inch wide tire and the right wheels and i am playing with the idea of a rear wing but if i use a fiero wing i will need to widen it out so i will need another wing to cut a section out and grafted into the other wing

[This message has been edited by engine man (edited 08-07-2016).]

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #1175, 08-08-2016 06:44 PM
      did a bit of reshaping the fastback i cut the hight and that changed the angle of it and i will use the stock 1/4 window sail panel or what ever you want to call it i am thinking of reshaping the top of the rear fender to the way i laid out the tape



engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #1176, 08-10-2016 01:08 PM
      Ok this is the way the car looks today i hope to get more done this weekend


engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #1177, 08-12-2016 08:30 PM
      tomorrow i will try to get the body prepped and bonded on

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #1178, 08-13-2016 04:26 PM
      put some color on rear quarter to see if i liked it and i think it's gonna look good


engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #1179, 08-14-2016 11:54 AM
      I have come to the conclusion that i need to pay someone to do the paint and finish body work i can get the rear section bonded on and i can even get the body work close or maybe even right but i don't have the talent or facility's to paint the car so i am saving up to have this painted and i will try to get the body work as best as i can

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #1180, 08-15-2016 03:10 PM
      well i am cutting the rear bumper off the kit due to it is installed wrong it is higher on one end from the other and is twisted the rear passenger side so the top is running at a angle instead of level like the driver side

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #1181, 08-16-2016 10:56 AM
      i ended up cutting along this bumper seem and by doing so it re leaved it so the top of the fender is now level like on the other side now i just need to take it all off and mark things and sand off the paint from the fiero body then bond it into place with the 3M adhesive


onesexyfiero (kevincdennis@gmail.com) MSG #1182, 08-16-2016 09:22 PM
      Kinda looking like two different things front to back right now, IMHO. The kit is all sharp angles and striped horizontal lines. The nose and hood are all soft, rounded kidney shapes. I think it would help to fill in the beltline molding in the front fenders, and carry the crease of the rear and doors to the front. Its a single line, and slopes downward more than the beltline. Maybe some of the front bumper could be sharpened up and/or have some of the ribs added? Looks like you need the aero trim on the bottom of the front fender too.

As for paint, I'd say get it halfway decent, throw some primer on it, and run it for a while. That's what I did with my Fiero. I'm still changing my mind about customizations.


engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #1183, 08-16-2016 09:50 PM
      yes i need areo trim on the bottom of the front fenders and i think i should go with smooth on the front part of the fenders and carry the upper front door line into the rear of the front fender at belt line just like you suggest

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #1184, 08-20-2016 02:06 PM
      Ok today I finally got the body bonded on now the body work starts

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #1185, 08-21-2016 01:47 PM
      this is blending in better than i thought it would but it looks like they got the deck lid part on a bit crooked as i have measured from the rear window and one side is 49 to the rear edge and the other is about 49 1/2





engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #1186, 08-23-2016 06:55 PM
      I think it is looking good as you ca see the curve from the roof line to the fastback looks right to me but still needs some work



engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #1187, 08-25-2016 06:38 PM
      I did not feel like body work so i made my belt wrap system for the blower today





engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #1188, 08-26-2016 05:50 PM
      Ok today i had some spare time so i made a belt tensioner i started with just raw aluminum plate cut it with a skill saw used a drill press, jig saw & compass



motoracer838 (jmartin@musicunveiled.com) MSG #1189, 08-26-2016 09:19 PM
      Sometimes ya just need a break from bondo...

Joe


engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #1190, 08-27-2016 12:12 PM
      yes you do and today i am being forced to take a brake as i think i have a pinched nerve in my neck and am having pain from my neck and in my back going into my hand and fingers

Neils88 (nellerin@dal.ca) MSG #1191, 08-27-2016 06:04 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by engine man:

yes you do and today i am being forced to take a brake as i think i have a pinched nerve in my neck and am having pain from my neck and in my back going into my hand and fingers


That describes my whole week. I had to stay away from the garage and sit on the couch all week. Sometimes a little break isn't a bad thing though...


engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #1192, 08-28-2016 10:16 AM
      Wow feeling better today 90% of the pain gone my brother John told me to roll a bath towel up and put behind my neck and sleep on my back and it worked

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #1193, 08-29-2016 07:46 PM
      today i started the engine with all the new pulley parts and i have an alignment problem as the belt is jumping over the edge it looks like i need to space out one guided idler pulley

[This message has been edited by engine man (edited 08-29-2016).]

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #1194, 09-02-2016 03:24 PM
      there the guided pulley repaired the problem of the belt wanting to walk off the supercharger pulley now it revs's nice and fast and i don't think i am getting belt slip with the new belt wrap system i made

Bozzie (widerisbetter88@aol.com) MSG #1195, 09-02-2016 03:43 PM
      Mark !!! your doing a GREAT job up there. Body kit and all. Some drastic changes from the last time I saw it. Im gonna have to make a point to come up and see ya some time. Hopefully we'll have both our cars up for next year. Here is a pic of the t top car in the yard ......




Bozzie (widerisbetter88@aol.com) MSG #1196, 09-02-2016 03:45 PM
      P.S. ....why is this NOT in the Construction Zone ?????? I thing by now you've covered all bases.

Boz


engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #1197, 09-02-2016 08:32 PM
      thanks Bozzie i see you are doing great on your car and my old car is waiting in the wings and i hope we can go for a cruise together in our cars

[This message has been edited by engine man (edited 09-02-2016).]

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #1198, 09-05-2016 11:19 AM
      today i did a check on how my body work looks and i am done blending on the rear roof pillars out sides as i used black paint to show any high or low spots and it looks good now to make it be the best it can be when i get the rest of the body work done i will use high build primer surfacer then block sand it all depending on how perfect you want it is how many times you you prime it and sand it some do it once and some do multiple prime and block sanding

[This message has been edited by engine man (edited 09-05-2016).]

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #1199, 09-10-2016 06:41 PM
      well i have been busy so i haven't worked on the car but i am planing on working on it tomorrow and re-hanging the rear bumper . I seem to find things i just don't like the way who ever put this kit together as it is a cheap kit body but the folks who put it on a Fiero the first time just did a bad job i will take some pictures of the trunk lid to show what i am talking about

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #1200, 09-17-2016 04:38 PM
      thought i would just say i am still plugging along on the body work and taking my time as the season is over so i have no need to hurry as i am sure it will be ready by next spring and i have some house projects i need to get done but like i said i thought i would check in and let every one know thanks

Neils88 (nellerin@dal.ca) MSG #1201, 09-17-2016 06:57 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by engine man:

well i have been busy so i haven't worked on the car but i am planing on working on it tomorrow and re-hanging the rear bumper . I seem to find things i just don't like the way who ever put this kit together as it is a cheap kit body but the folks who put it on a Fiero the first time just did a bad job i will take some pictures of the trunk lid to show what i am talking about


Unfortunately most kits are poorly built...such a small market and most people don't like spending real money on them (true Fiero owners, lol). Then comes the fact that most people assembling kits really have no clue what they are doing and get in way over their heads, hence the reason so few actually get finished. You are doing a great job with it, though. Taking your time and focusing on the attention to detail is the way to go. You'll be proud of the end result!

I second Bozzie's comment....this build really needs to be moved to the Construction Zone!


engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #1202, 09-17-2016 07:21 PM
      Thanks Neils88 it still wont be perfect but because it is so bad and messed up i can only do so much i just am not a wizard and my magic is not that strong lol . one more thing is it bad that i had to buy a gallon of filler ?

[This message has been edited by engine man (edited 09-17-2016).]

Neils88 (nellerin@dal.ca) MSG #1203, 09-17-2016 09:05 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by engine man:

Thanks Neils88 it still wont be perfect but because it is so bad and messed up i can only do so much i just am not a wizard and my magic is not that strong lol . one more thing is it bad that i had to buy a gallon of filler ?



Only a gallon? I've seen some replicas that have used many times that amount...


engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #1204, 09-17-2016 09:22 PM
      well i mean another gallon lol as i was buying quarts but after buying many of them i just said the hell with it i will buy a gallon

Bozzie (widerisbetter88@aol.com) MSG #1205, 09-18-2016 09:20 PM
      LOL ^^^^^^^^^^^^ its not like you can put a magnet on the car and find our where the filler is !! LOL. Lookin good Mark

Boz


engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #1206, 09-18-2016 09:42 PM
      Hi Bozzie how you doing did you get started on my old car ? things are picking up at my shop it looks like you have been busy

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #1207, 09-24-2016 08:47 PM
      well i have been working on the fiero and my Mercedes 380sl that i will be selling to help fund this project

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #1208, 10-02-2016 10:01 PM
      i am still working on the 81 Mercedes 380sk i am rebuilding the Bosch K jet as i have taken it apart and it is all plugged up it is mechanical injection and the metering plunger was so gummed up it would not move and i had to take a hammer and drift to tap the plunger out but now i have it working good and free i will be putting it back together and back on tomorrow but i know i will need to pull the nozzles and clean them and maybe replace them

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #1209, 10-03-2016 08:47 PM
      i worked on getting the deck lid and body to match up






engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #1210, 10-07-2016 12:22 PM
      man i still love these chrome wraps


engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #1211, 10-07-2016 12:24 PM
      DP

[This message has been edited by engine man (edited 10-07-2016).]

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #1212, 10-10-2016 09:08 PM
      well i just ordered some red chrome vinyl enough to do the front end as i always want to try it if i like it i will do the rest of the car i will post pitchers . I want to be able install vinyl professionally as i don't see vehicle wraps for even advertising

RURC (meismanm@hotmail.com) MSG #1213, 10-13-2016 04:02 PM
      I have been following this for a little while and am very impressed with this build. My son and I have been talking about doing the W8 in our GT.

[This message has been edited by RURC (edited 10-13-2016).]

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #1214, 10-13-2016 06:49 PM
      thanks RURC i will say you need to be able to do wiring and fabrication for me the wiring is the hardest part if you do the W8 i think you should go with a VEMS ecu i think you will be way ahead as far as getting it up and running and it's price is close to the same as a Megasquirt 3 i wish i had gone with the vems

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #1215, 10-16-2016 04:53 PM
      UPS did not bring my vinyl so i could not wrap the hood like i wanted to try and it is looking like they will bring it Monday or Tuesday and i also ordered some stuff for a side project i have been wanting to do . i am going to try making a magnesium air battery and i will post how that works out to

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #1216, 10-17-2016 08:04 PM
      well the chrome Vinyl showed up today but i did not do anything yet accept cut a small piece of to see if i could clear coat it and the clear coat did not effect it at all so i will try wrapping the hood this coming weekend i will say i do like how it looks i know one thing it will stand out in a crowed

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #1217, 10-18-2016 12:33 PM
      well i took a minute to play with the red chrome




engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #1218, 10-18-2016 02:58 PM
      a few more pictures after using a heat gun on it then clear coating it




engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #1219, 10-19-2016 02:50 PM
      I am Excited and Nervous to wrap my hood this weekend because this chrome vinyl looks so awesome

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #1220, 10-22-2016 01:45 PM
      well i tried today but failed i will have to figure out the hood vent as this is the area that is giving me problems maybe if i start there and work out from there



engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #1221, 10-22-2016 03:25 PM
      well i am going to do 1 of 2 things with the scoop i will wrap it separately or i will paint the center section of the hood matte black but in both cases i will need to use knifeless tape to get a nice clean cut and i will try to get some one to help as it really is a 2 person job . could some one photo shop the center of the hood mat black

[This message has been edited by engine man (edited 10-22-2016).]

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #1222, 10-24-2016 09:02 PM
      well i am going to give the hood another try but i am not sure if i will wrap the scoop but if i do i will do it separately and use a but joint shown in this video
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C-XkNFL_OKw or i will do matte black on a section of the hood


engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #1223, 10-30-2016 12:20 PM
      well i have been trying to wrap curves and corners as these are the hard parts doing flat areas are pretty easy you just need to make sure they are clean but compound curves that is a whole different animal and the chrome vinyl is not as stretchable as plane colored vinyl they say

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #1224, 10-31-2016 06:52 PM
      I am desperately trying to find a second pair of hands to help me with this vinyl as it is almost impossible for me to heat and stretch and place the vinyl all by my self so i am not sure i will get to do what i want but i sure am going to try

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #1225, 10-31-2016 08:22 PM
      well i just ordered 30 feet so i guess i am going for it no matter what

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #1226, 11-01-2016 07:58 AM
      well i am learning how to do the corners it takes good heat and a strong pull on the vinyl this is a pretty good corner but i stretched it a bit to much with a little to much heat




onesexyfiero (kevincdennis@gmail.com) MSG #1227, 11-01-2016 06:09 PM
      Mark, ive got next week off work and could probably find some time to come down and lend a hand. Id like to mess around with wrapping. Shoot me an email.

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #1228, 11-01-2016 06:18 PM
      I might take you up on that as i keep fooling around with doing the corner and am learning but i think if ` person was heating it then i think i could pull it and get it with out any wrinkles at all

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #1229, 11-03-2016 08:18 PM
      well the roll of vinyl came in today I need to get back working on the body and finish it up and ready to be wrapped

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #1230, 11-04-2016 05:06 PM
      door and vent area blacked out



engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #1231, 11-05-2016 03:29 PM
      I just ordered some seats from ebay i also ordered a product called rapid tac2 it is for installing vinyl using the wet install method

[This message has been edited by engine man (edited 11-06-2016).]

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #1232, 11-05-2016 08:25 PM
      well i worked on the rear bumper and the fins on the doors today and should be able to get that all done tomorrow every thing seems to take longer than i think they should

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #1233, 11-10-2016 08:23 PM
      the new seats showed up today and i now have the rear bumper looking good and repaired the door fins i need to finish the deck lid so it is coming along good

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #1234, 11-14-2016 07:29 PM
      i have been sanding to get it smoothed out then some primer surfacer then wet sand and start wrapping the car

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #1235, 11-18-2016 02:25 PM
      I am getting excited and scared to death all at the same time due to wrapping the car as i want it to look good but am really nervous about the hard parts to wrap and i feel i should wrap the hard parts first like the front and rear bumpers i know that if I can pull it off it will look awesome and preform awesome

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #1236, 11-22-2016 08:47 PM
      Happy Thanksgiving Every one have a great Holiday with your Family and be thankful for living in the best country on earth where you are free to chase your dreams and make them come true

2.5 MSG #1237, 11-23-2016 10:32 AM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by engine man:

Happy Thanksgiving Every one have a great Holiday with your Family and be thankful for living in the best country on earth where you are free to chase your dreams and make them come true





engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #1238, 11-26-2016 04:58 PM
      Well i have found what i think will look good for a design on the hood and car along with the black on the door fin area


engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #1239, 11-28-2016 08:32 PM
      taillights i am thinking of using


engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #1240, 11-30-2016 01:58 PM
      i just sent the blower pulley out to Carbinite metal coating it will have extra belt grip i might have to send the crank pulley out to the if it slips there but i don't think it will i should have the early back early next week so i will try it just to see what the boost goes to i went from a 3 inch down to 2 5/8 inch and boost hit 7 psi with the 3 inch i would like to see 12 minimum with the smaller pulley and zero belt slip

LornesGT MSG #1241, 12-02-2016 12:40 AM
      This might be helpful for the chrome rap.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=PVBsWxmWY84

[This message has been edited by LornesGT (edited 12-02-2016).]

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #1242, 12-02-2016 01:36 PM
      first i need to get the body 100 percent ready then i will need a helping hand with the wrap i have had a few offer to help but i just am not ready yet but i keep pecking away at it and it is getting done slow and steady and thank you for the video

LornesGT MSG #1243, 12-03-2016 12:23 AM
      I bought a chrome wrap as well but I have been told the adhesive has a shelf live of 6 months. Not sure how mine has held up the first time I tried to apply I could not get it back off the car without heat, I haven't checked it for 2 years ,my body work and engine swap and on and on has been slooooow.

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #1244, 12-03-2016 03:04 PM
      ya some times it is slow going

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #1245, 12-09-2016 06:17 PM
      today i received the blower pulley back from carbinite and they did a good job at carbon coating to give it a rougher surface to grip the belt and it sure did work but now i think i have slippage on the crank pulley i might have the local machine shop make me a aluminum crank pulley and then send it out and have the same coating done to it

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #1246, 12-10-2016 05:02 PM
      Wow today i was trying to use tunerstudio for my car but could not remember how to use it in Linux terminal but i just remembered how to do it the command is sudo Tunerstudio,sh then hit enter then type in my password and hit enter

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #1247, 12-13-2016 12:43 PM
      well i have found that the crank pulley is where the belt is slipping so now i must send that in to have it treated so it gets a better grip i will tell them to treat for maximum grip . it is kinda funny when you see a higher boost from the larger pulley due to it is not slipping as bad

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #1248, 12-14-2016 10:04 PM
      now i am going to work on getting more belt wrap on the crank pulley and have a good idea on how to get much more wrap

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #1249, 12-16-2016 07:49 PM
      today i had a few minutes so i started making a new belt adjuster and it just needs the adjusting slot

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #1250, 12-17-2016 04:26 PM
      New belt tensioner pulley bracket the pulley has 2 places to bolt to for small pulley and the large 3 inch pulley . as you can see i didn't have a mill to make the adjustment slot so i dilled multiple holes then i cut and filed now i have great belt wrap and belt tension . funny thing that happened when running the car t sounded great but t dropped a few cylinders so now think hurt the engine so i start checking it out and it is popping so i keep checking thing and it ends up a ignition module that has gone bad so it was down 2 cylinders as it is a wasted spark system



engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #1251, 12-19-2016 02:31 PM
      Well with just getting better belt wrap i have gone from 3 psi of boost with a bad slipping belt to right around 10 psi and i think the belt is slipping just a little and i have found i needed to take some coil dwell time out so the ignition module wont over heat as it does in the video and drops a few cylinders at the end www.youtube.com/watch?v=wiexq2LdiFM after watching the video i see 11 pounds of boost and i think there is 2 to 3 pounds more boost once i get rid of the rest of the belt slip

[This message has been edited by engine man (edited 12-22-2016).]

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #1252, 12-25-2016 10:04 AM
      Merry Christmas have a great day today with your family and friends

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #1253, 12-27-2016 05:40 PM
      well today i got rid of the strakes in the doors and nothing is scheduled so i will try to finish up the body work that i hate


engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #1254, 12-28-2016 04:25 PM
      just wondering how much you would ask for this car all done . I am not selling it but just was wondering what every one thinks

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #1255, 12-28-2016 09:01 PM
      Mr Miyagi said body filler on body filler off as the never ending body work go's on

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #1256, 12-29-2016 04:44 PM
      well have been dong research on the finishing of the body work with high build polyester primer and spray some guide coat then block sand to make it nice and straight then lay down some more primer wet sand then paint or wrap so lots more work ahead to make it right

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #1257, 01-01-2017 05:45 PM
      well the car's body work is finale getting to where i think i can see the light at the end of the tunnel as i am at minor body work and sanding

IVANNATINKLE (seanmiller063@gmail.com) MSG #1258, 01-01-2017 08:09 PM
      I'm exhilarated that this project is still going strong! I for one can not wait to see this bad Larry done

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #1259, 01-01-2017 08:31 PM
      thanks i know i could put it on the street but i want it to look decent as know a nice paint job s not going to make it faster more street-able and the same for the interior but i would like to have something that folks aren't laughing at me about as i am not a body man or interior person but i can't afford to have some one do it for me as i would have a professional do paint and body so i hope this thread helps all those who are in the same boat as me

engine man (fieroa8@gmail.com) MSG #1260, 01-02-2017 11:24 AM
      Yaaa the body filler work is done now i need to just sand the whole car with 220 then since i am trying to do a really nice paint job i am going to spray high build polyester primer then block sand with guide coat to get it as flat as i can then use regular primer sand and put down color . I must really get the floor swept up and all the dust off the car and i will wet the floor to keep the dust down when i spray the color and the clear