Redo a headliner with me
Topic started by: 1MohrFiero, Date: 10-26-2003 07:50 PM
Original thread: http://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum2/HTML/042788.html


1MohrFiero MSG #1, 10-26-2003 07:50 PM
      I finally decided to give this a try after seeing it discussed here a lot. First some pictures of why I needed to do this. Apparently the previous owner punched the roof at least once.

Not the worst I've seen but definitley on its way.



1MohrFiero MSG #2, 10-26-2003 07:57 PM
      First remove the seat belt retainer bolts. Use a T-45 torx bit.
You don't have to have air tools but they help here.

Next remove the single screw on the door pillar and slip a screw driver behind the panel to release the trim fastner at ear level.
Finally slip the seatbelts out of the slot on the backside of the side panel. There is a small metal clip that holds the panel secure.

[This message has been edited by 1MohrFiero (edited 10-26-2003).]

[This message has been edited by 1MohrFiero (edited 10-26-2003).]

1MohrFiero MSG #3, 10-26-2003 08:06 PM
      Remove both side panels. It seems to work best if you gently bend them down from the top first. Then slip them inward and out.

Next comes the roof trim and front pillar. This is a frustrating and delicate part. Expect to break a clip or two but don't worry the panel seems to hold in-place from tension and unless you break them all it will not be noticable.
Start by prying gently down on the trim from outside the door.

Then pull outward when the clip releases.
After these are loose, work the pillar support down and in toward the center of the car while using the screw driver to gently pop the two clips in the pillar out.

[This message has been edited by 1MohrFiero (edited 10-26-2003).]

1MohrFiero MSG #4, 10-26-2003 08:19 PM
      Now we will remove the accessories that are holding the liner up. I started with the sunvisors first. Remove the 3 screws that hold them. I found it easier to remove the visor from the mount first.

Now take the overhead console down. There are four hidden screws. 2 are in the hole where the visor rod snaps in.

The other two are hidden behind the outside light covers. Gently pry them out to find these.

Unhook the single wiring connection and the console is off.

By now the only thing supporting the liner is the two coat hooks in the back if you have them.
If not your head is probably supporting it. Let it rest on the tops of the seats and the rearview mirror while you slide out.
Then gently work the liner out of the car. Careful, it is made of thin pressed fiberglass and very delicate after all these years. It helps to have rolled your car windows down for clearance.


1MohrFiero MSG #5, 10-26-2003 08:27 PM
      We are halfway there. Well maybe a third. Here are some pics of the board out of the car.
The backside...

Some details...

Sunvisor mount
The damaged area on mine which I repaired with fiber glass.

The brake light cut out...


1MohrFiero MSG #6, 10-26-2003 08:48 PM
      Next we gently pull off the old liner material. It came off pretty easily and left a black semi-sticky foam residue on the liner board. So use a stiff brush to scrub that away. Don't get overly zealous and break the liner!

After this is thoroughly cleaned, test fit your material. You can find it at many auto parts stores. I got mine from Hancocks Fabrics for $8.97 per yard. 1 yard was almost a perfect fit. I had very little to trim away.

Fold half the material to one side, like in the picture above then spray the exposed side of the liner board and back of the material with a good spray adhesive. Once again there are many choices available at auto stores, Hancocks, Lowes and Home Cheapo. I bought 3M Super 77 at Lowes because it got good reviews here on the forum. Let the adhesive cure of a minute or so before the next step.

Gently fold the material back into place and smooth it into the contours of the liner with the flat of your hands. Too much pressure or pointed finger work could leave permanent marks.
Presto...sort of.

Let it dry some. Trim and fold around the edges. Mark the holes for the visors and coat hooks. Then, as they say in the instruction books...installation is the reverse of removal.

[This message has been edited by 1MohrFiero (edited 10-26-2003).]

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bryson MSG #7, 10-26-2003 10:28 PM
      Man! That looks great! I want to get rid of my sunroof now! Definitley a (+) for you! That was a great write up, thanks for the information.
--Bryson



Jncomutt (jncomutt@hotmail.com) MSG #8, 10-26-2003 10:38 PM
      Sweet!! I'll give you a plus for that, good write up!

Tiny stupid stuff:

I will say, I dunno about that super 77. I have used it on all my sunroof headliners with no problem at all. The people I know that used it on solid roofs had problems with the 'hump' eventually starting to sag. Solid roof guys may want to consider rubber cement or something along those lines. Also, a T45 works, but I believe the correct size is a T-47

litespd MSG #9, 10-26-2003 10:38 PM
      Excellent, Dwayne! You did a nice job on the headliner...and a nice job on the writeup and pics, too! Now...when are you going to do a sunroof-equipped car, so that I can see how to do mine?



Electrathon (arw62@aol.com) MSG #10, 10-27-2003 12:34 AM
      Great write up! Definatly worth a plus.

I do have to second the warning about super 77. I used it on mine and it only lasted a few weeks, it was way harder to do the second time! I knew better too since my friend that works at an upholstery shop warned me (sometimes I don't always listen, LOL). Reglued it with the glue he uses at the shop and it held well. I believe he uses contact adhesive, like you would glue formica with.

If you have a sunroof it really isn't that big of an issue, the side trim will keep it from saging.

1MohrFiero MSG #11, 10-27-2003 06:30 AM
      Man, I hope you guys are wrong about the adhesive. It will go faster the second time around but I don't want to do it too often!

lurker (mraboy@att.net) MSG #12, 10-27-2003 07:45 AM
      thank you very much, i started this job last week and got stuck on picture 9. now i have a clue how proceed without damaging anything.

1MohrFiero MSG #13, 10-27-2003 08:03 AM
      Lurker I have some other detail pics if you are interested. BTW, thanks everyone for the positive comments.

Master Tuner Akimoto MSG #14, 10-27-2003 08:08 AM
      I do a lot of these headliners and the spray can adhesive will last a few weeks before it starts to sag so here is a professional salution to this problem.Go to Home Depot and get the medium size can of contact cement with two cheap paint brushes then paint the cement covering all area on the headliner also on the back of the liner material then let it dry about 20 to 30 mins then carefully apply the liner from the middle out to the corners and there is no chance for error because once you lay it down it will stick for life.



Stinkin_V8 MSG #15, 10-27-2003 12:48 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by 1MohrFiero:

I can't really tell here - did you coat the fiberboard headliner with resin? If you use resin to stiffent the board, can you still get it into the vehicle?

Good job, BTW - it looks brand new!



1MohrFiero MSG #16, 10-27-2003 12:55 PM
      No, I only used the resin as a repair on the backside and to strengthen it in some weak points. You are right, the board needs to flex to fit properly. Thanks for the compliment.

lurker (mraboy@att.net) MSG #17, 10-27-2003 05:43 PM
      i just pulled mine, it's an '84 with sunroof. there are 2 clips about 2 inches forward of the rear edge of the panel that go up into the roof frame. aside from that and the plastic trim strip around the opening, i'm not seeing any difference from the non-sunroof. unfortunately the "general purpose spray adhesive" i bought specifically says "not for use on headliners".
back to the store!

they exchanged it for a can of permatex headliner adhesive, which i'm trying now. i will report results.

[This message has been edited by lurker (edited 10-28-2003).]

Whuffo (michael@goldengatefieros.org) MSG #18, 10-27-2003 07:10 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by 1MohrFiero:

Man, I hope you guys are wrong about the adhesive. It will go faster the second time around but I don't want to do it too often!

I did mine the first time with Super 77 - it lasted about a week before it started falling down. Wish I'd read the forums more carefully first...

TennT (talgrav@usit.net) MSG #19, 10-27-2003 07:22 PM
      Nice job Dwayne. I plan on doing my 88 soon. It has a sunroof.
When you gonna come up and let me see the car?
Ducks'll be flying soon and we plan to flood the fields before long, so bring a gun.

TG

DJRice (dillon.j.rice@gmail.com) MSG #20, 10-27-2003 08:13 PM
      Your right, the job will go faster the second time around. I know because I have a solid roof and I used the 3M Super 77 and mine lasted about a month. I have not redone it again yet, I just pulled it out.

I suspect that the tension from the headliner being streched over the humps eventually pulls it loose.



AndyLPhoto MSG #21, 10-28-2003 06:45 AM
      Very nice write-up. I can't speak for the 77 spray, but if you do have to redo it, I can highly recommend 3M Super Trim Adhesive 8090. It was recommended by an Upholstery shop that I asked about adhesives used in the industry. I used it on mine and it's been up there over 2 years, and not a hint of letting loose.

1MohrFiero MSG #22, 10-28-2003 06:59 AM
      Where were all these negative 77 guys when I searched the forum a few weeks ago? Oh, well if it falls, then I will try the contact cement or this 8090 stuff. Like I said above lots of choices.

TG, I am planning to hunt some deer around Newborn during the T'giving break. Maybe I can swing by then. Bust a few ducks for me.

fiero go fast (dday98m@gmail.com) MSG #23, 10-28-2003 11:47 AM
      Well while doing a sunroofed headliner, do you cut the hole for the sunroof before or after the fabric is on the board?

Matt



ManiMack (mac.k@sympatico.ca) MSG #24, 10-28-2003 12:05 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by fiero go fast:

Well while doing a sunroofed headliner, do you cut the hole for the sunroof before or after the fabric is on the board?

Matt

I cut mine after, worked out great.

I did everything the same as 1MohrFiero. I did mine in leather though.

I have heard mixed reviews on super 77 over the past few years here. Some people say its worked for years, other say it lasted a month or two. I used it on my sunroof fiero and no problums so far. 4 months an counting .

If you have a sunroof super77 is probably fine. But if you have a sold roof, you might want to use contact cement.

I would think contact cement would be a real PITA though. It has to be tough to get no wrinkles or creases using the stuff.

Fierokid87 (scotts_fiero@juno.com) MSG #25, 10-28-2003 12:07 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by fiero go fast:

Well while doing a sunroofed headliner, do you cut the hole for the sunroof before or after the fabric is on the board?

Matt

cut the hole after.



ezramore MSG #26, 10-28-2003 12:22 PM
      I agree with cutting the hole after.
Less mistakes, just be carefull not to strech the material juring the cutting or you might have to start over. A good sharp razor and a lot of patience are a must.


Carrolles (carrolles@charter.net) MSG #27, 10-28-2003 12:49 PM
      I used 3M FoamFast 74 spray adhesive on the last 4 or 5 I've done over the past 7 years without failures. FoamFast 74 is made for foam backed fabric and sprays on stringy like a spider web. You'll have about 10 minutes to adjust the fit of the fabric before it sets up.

On my 85GT without a sunroof the headliner has two clips (maybe just one, can't remember) just about above your head that clips to a tab in the roof panel. I don't remember my 85SE sunroof headliner having these clips.

AndyLPhoto MSG #28, 10-29-2003 05:58 AM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by Carrolles:
On my 85GT without a sunroof the headliner has two clips (maybe just one, can't remember) just about above your head that clips to a tab in the roof panel. I don't remember my 85SE sunroof headliner having these clips.

My '84 had the clips as well. I looked at the pictures above, and it would appear that the clips may be present on models without the coat hooks to hold the back end in place.

DJRice (dillon.j.rice@gmail.com) MSG #29, 10-29-2003 10:18 AM
      Carroles, where did you find that foamfast 74?

1MohrFiero MSG #30, 10-29-2003 05:58 PM
      Still holding fast so far. ;D

topcat (tconey01@att.net) MSG #31, 10-29-2003 07:07 PM
      1Mohr, you got a PM

JacobHaley (jhaley1@ameritech.net) MSG #32, 10-30-2003 09:49 AM
      MiniMack, where did you get the leather?

lurker (mraboy@att.net) MSG #33, 10-30-2003 10:56 AM
      i got my sunroof headliner back in, it's not perfect but it looks ok. if i ever do it again i'll be more careful trimming around the big hole. i'll have pictures in a couple of days.



1MohrFiero MSG #34, 10-30-2003 12:54 PM
      Great news lurker. I look forward to the pictures. I hope I helped some.

ManiMack (mac.k@sympatico.ca) MSG #35, 10-30-2003 08:31 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by JacobHaley:

MiniMack, where did you get the leather?

Got it at a local fabric store. Its black and very thin.

I had to clean up my headliner board really nicely, and clearcoat it so it would hold. Took a while but looks nice!



Raydar (raydarfiero@comcast.net) MSG #36, 11-08-2003 10:25 PM
      This is *great* info!
I'm in the process of redoing my interior. Have the seats, console and dash out, already. Was just about to start pulling out plastic trim and the headliner.
Thanks for taking the time.

Raydar

[This message has been edited by Raydar (edited 11-08-2003).]

rogergarrison (fastandred@hotmail.com) MSG #37, 11-09-2003 08:44 AM
      Ive done many of them in OEM fabric and Ferraro is naughahyde. I ALWAYS use contact cement straight into my paint spray gun. I have never had one come down, even when I tried to get it off. Be warned though, make sure you like what you have, if you want to change it, you have to buy a new board or cover over it because you will never get it back off.

I personally recommend Weldwood (DAP) contact cement. Make sure you get the 'original formula' yellow. The white one isnt worth a crap. A quart is less than $5 at Home Depot.

BTW great write up and WITH PICS (always helps)

[This message has been edited by rogergarrison (edited 11-09-2003).]

1MohrFiero MSG #38, 11-09-2003 09:29 AM
      Thanks, Roger and Raydar! BTW the super 77 is definitely crap. It is already starting to let loose in places. Eveyone take this warning, it may say it works on foam backed cloth but don't count on it.



rogergarrison (fastandred@hotmail.com) MSG #39, 11-09-2003 06:53 PM
      Jacob, fabric store across the street has any material you want, your welcome to use my gun to spray the glue. Just let me know in advance when you want to do it. Im home most weekends now...no more shows By the way theres a COFE club meeting at Hooters this Sunday afternoon at 1pm. Other girls in the club will be there so bring your wife with ya and show off your V8

JacobHaley (jhaley1@ameritech.net) MSG #40, 11-10-2003 11:36 AM
      Thanks Roger, I might just take you up on that offer. I'm doing a lot of work on my interior this winter.

For those of you who don't know already, Roger is a great guy! He builds nice cars too!

Oh btw, my brother saw you in the Ferarro the other day and was really impressed. He loves 308s.

lurker (mraboy@att.net) MSG #41, 11-12-2003 04:44 PM
      some pictures of my "new" sunroof headliner.
the back:

the front:

the part i messed up:

overall it went well, and if i ever do it again i'll be more careful.

[This message has been edited by lurker (edited 11-12-2003).]

1MohrFiero MSG #42, 11-13-2003 07:47 PM
      Looks good lurker. Weather up there looks nice too.



87GTSleeper (chriswallace@wholedamarea.com) MSG #43, 11-13-2003 08:50 PM
      Kudos to both you guys! I'll be doing that this weekend.

Hey Mohr, you an Ole Miss fan? Kicking butt this year!

1MohrFiero MSG #44, 11-14-2003 06:49 AM
      I am new here but you're right. I got to go to the Vandy game. What a blow out.

rogergarrison (fastandred@hotmail.com) MSG #45, 11-14-2003 08:37 AM
      A little trick to doing the sunroof cutout... after you install the headliner, cut out the opening and be sure theres is at least 2-3 inches of extra all around. Install the rubber retaining strip, Then go around the outside edge of the strip with a razor blade to trim off the excess. Remove the rubber strip, tuck the excess up and reinstall the rubber.

lurker (mraboy@att.net) MSG #46, 11-14-2003 11:39 PM
      this A.M. we had our first frost.

has anyone redone the sun visors? compared to my *new* headliner, they look mighty tired now.

1MohrFiero MSG #47, 11-15-2003 08:19 AM
      Theogre has a nice right up on them in his cave (link at the top of page) but I haven't done mine yet. I have plans but just haven't had the time. You could go first this time lurker.

scrabblegod (gene@scrabblegod.com) MSG #48, 11-15-2003 10:39 AM
      I have been doing GM glue up headliners for years, and have always had great success using 3M Super Trim Adhesive. DO NOT use the general trim adhesive or you will be doing it over (ask how I know). I have done everything from Trans Ams to wagons and Blazers. The harsest part is getting the liner out of the car without breaking it on some models. Must have gone in before the glass.

Gene

rogergarrison (fastandred@hotmail.com) MSG #49, 11-15-2003 08:48 PM
      VIsors have to be sewn. Unless you have a heavy duty sewing machine you wont be able to. Auto upholstery shop did both of mine for $20 in black naugahyde. I took them the material.

Rob Ernst (robernst@techie.com) MSG #50, 02-14-2004 04:44 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by rogergarrison:

VIsors have to be sewn. Unless you have a heavy duty sewing machine you wont be able to. Auto upholstery shop did both of mine for $20 in black naugahyde. I took them the material.

Got any pics of the naugahyde sunvisors?

Rob

Automoda MSG #51, 02-15-2004 03:33 AM
      Today I finished my own headliner adventures. Sure I have a convertible ) But I'm working on 2 other cars: My 3800 racer, and my mechanic's GT, which has a sunroof.

First, I dont know how to avoid breaking the sunroof headliners. I had to drop it down to get at some of the sunroof stuff, and left it propped on the top of the headrests and dash. The next week I found it in 6 pieces, just from the sagging of gravity. So to me, that says everyone should *always* reinforce their sunroof headliners when they take them out, even if its not broken yet. Here's a picture of what I did:

This headliner came out of one of my parts cars. Just sitting around it got broken in two pieces. I put down a couple layers of ordinary fiberglass and gobbed the resin on there. The fiber-board soaks it up, so if you can, get a gell type resin. Now you'll never have to worry about breaking the headliner when you reinstall it etc.

Now for my experiments...

On my car's headliner (no sunroof) I elected to lay a layer of fiberglass over the entire surface that the new material was to stick to. It made sense to me, since the fiber-board seems to be the weak link in the headliner problems. I imagine the very tiny and short strands of fiberglass just pull out easily. Some people may blame the glue, and indeed some glue may be to blame, but I just dont trust this fiber-board's strength. It took a whole afternoon to lay the fiberglass layer. It takes about $10-15 dollars worth of resin, and a few bucks worth of glass to do a headliner without the sunroof. After I had finished, I trimmed the edges with a razor blade before it got too hard. Then I let it sit for the week. Next I took a 40 grit bondo-buster and DA sander to it and knocked it as flat as reasonably possible. Once that was done, I filled the remaining holes with a thin layer of ordinary body filler (bondo) and sanded it flat. Then I wiped it down with some thinner to make sure it was super clean. Here's a picture:

Its a little heavier now that it has that thin layer of glass on it. But its very durable and I believe the glue will truely stick to it now. We'll see. I will update this link if I have problems.


The other headliner, with the sunroof, was treated a little differently. Covering the whole headliner with fiberglass is a lot of work, and grinding it down gets little bits of glass in your arms to itch. So for this headliner, I decided to simply use the resin and skip the glass. I painted tons of resin onto the underside of the headliner. My thinking is that it will bind those weak little strands of glass together and keep them from pulling out. I'm sure the glue will stick better to it than it would the raw dry fibers, and since the sunroof model doesnt have the indentations that put a lot of stress on the material, I think this will be a great fix. Time will tell. I will of course, report back if I see any problems this summer.

I got my materials for both headliners (order one yard each-- it comes in 52 inch wide rolls) at an upholstery supplier in Salt Lake for $5.50 per yard. The upholstery retail shops want $15.00 dollars per yard for the same stuff, and most dont keep it in stock.

I used a $5.00 can of TAC-IT "Neoprene Contact Upholstery Adhesive" from Alchemco. Its supposed to be very heat tollerant and is meant to glue foam headliners. I'm sure I wont see the same problems some of the others in the forum have seen with their glue choices (crossing fingers). Its a spray glue in a white can.

Spray a nice even layer on the headliner fiber-board, and a nice even layer on the material. Then get 2 friends to hold the material up and get it aligned. Have the friends hold the material vertically and get the back edge of the headliner started once its all aligned. Have them slowly lower the headliner material down as you press the material down with the palm of your had (dont use fingers--- may press the glue into the foam, leaving a permanent dent). Work forward from the back, paying attention not to create wrinkles (meaning keep from working from the edges-- work from the middle out).

Once you've got the headliner material glued down, flip it over and spray more glue on both the edge of the fiber-board and the foam so that, once it tacks off, you can wrap it up and over. Here's a picture:

You could also start the trimming at this point. I've noticed it takes a lot more material to wrap around than you might expect, so leave at least a good 1 1/2 or 2 inches of material to work with. Never trim all the way to any of the edges. And dont cut any of the sunroof material out until you have it in the car and can work with that rubber trim piece.

Here's a picture of the finished product:

Of course, read the "recovering headliner" link at the fiero.nl home page and all the other links for hints and ideas. Good luck!



lurker (mraboy@att.net) MSG #52, 02-15-2004 10:38 AM
      lookin' good!

Stinkin_V8 MSG #53, 02-19-2004 05:07 PM
      Thanks for the write-up, Dwayne. Thought I'd post a pic of mine, covered in suede:

Flames on a Fiero isn't bad taste, is it?



1MohrFiero MSG #54, 02-19-2004 06:13 PM
      Wow. Nice work Automoda and Stinkin V8. Suede with flames...hmm...GT Dude this guy has THE headliner for you.

Stinkin_V8 MSG #55, 02-19-2004 08:12 PM
      Thanks for the compliments. I messed up a bit, though.. The headliner trim wasn't on the car when I got it, and the headliner was pretty beat up (three pieces). Not knowing any better, I glued the suede to the headliner backing board around the sunroof opening! The board is pretty stiff so I may not need the suspension there. If it droops too much, I have enough scrap around to glue another strip around the back of the opening to put into the trim strip groove.

Wait until you see the rest of the interior...

Fiero~Spataro (alexspataro@rogers.com) MSG #56, 03-12-2004 04:01 PM
      is there any other way of getting the foam off without using a wire brush? Is there any laquer or thinner or something that i could use? ive never fiberglassed b4 so i dont wanna crack the headliner.


1MohrFiero MSG #57, 03-12-2004 06:51 PM
      I just used a stiff bristle brush like a bathroom brush. It didn't take uch scrubbing to get it off so I didn't break any fibre glass.

As an update to the adhesive part, the Super 77 finally gave way to the point that I pulled it out an redid it with contact cement. Let's see how long that lasts.

gaas88 (gs.allevato@sympatico.ca) MSG #58, 03-13-2004 07:46 AM
      Great posts! The headliner replacement is on my hit list of things to do this year and this will certainly help me. Thanks guys!
Gene


2farnorth MSG #59, 03-13-2004 08:46 AM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by Fiero~Spataro:

is there any other way of getting the foam off without using a wire brush? Is there any laquer or thinner or something that i could use? ive never fiberglassed b4 so i dont wanna crack the headliner.

I've found that rubbing the board VERY LIGHTLY with steel wool will do a good job of taking off the old foam. You can get into the curves a lot better than with a brush.

Dave

Fiero~Spataro (alexspataro@rogers.com) MSG #60, 03-19-2004 01:37 PM
      is this cement ok? i looked everywhere for 3M trim adheasive but i cant find it
has anyone used this stuff? can i trust it? (FYI im recovering with vinyl)
Mastercraft all purpose contact cement
best on leather, metal, plastic laminates, rubber, wood
heres a pic

i know u love the bling bling escalade



Stinkin_V8 MSG #61, 03-19-2004 03:18 PM
      Test it first! Some contact cements will eat into the foam backing you're using. Hopefully you can spray it on, too.



maryjane MSG #62, 05-17-2004 11:28 PM
      I bought a 84 with no headliner board in it, thus, the 2 clips that hold the board up in the back are also missing. I have a board, but still need the clips. Can someone tell me what they look like? Maybe post a pic of these clips? Thanks.
And-great work on all these jobs. Good writeups.


Stinkin_V8 MSG #63, 05-18-2004 12:20 PM
      I think they're the same type of plastic clips used on the A-pillar trim. They're also used on the rear bulkhead panel. If you don't get anything by the end of the day, PM me and I'll snap a pic once I get home.

I'm pretty sure you could substitute standard GM door panel clips, the serrated-looking push-in type.

OH10fiero (scottfiero27@aol.com) MSG #64, 05-18-2004 12:53 PM
      Did mine along time ago, but you still get a "+" from me for a good detailed write up. Taking the time to take the pictures and give an explination how how the job is done that is the least that I could do for all your efforts, your end results look great.

maryjane MSG #65, 05-18-2004 09:59 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by Stinkin_V8:

I think they're the same type of plastic clips used on the A-pillar trim. They're also used on the rear bulkhead panel. If you don't get anything by the end of the day, PM me and I'll snap a pic once I get home.

I'm pretty sure you could substitute standard GM door panel clips, the serrated-looking push-in type.


If that's the case, then I have it covered. Got quite a few of those, in different sizes laying about. I would just put coat hook up there, but the my 84 didn't come with them either, besides, I'd hit my head on them. Thanks.



TK MSG #66, 05-18-2004 10:21 PM
      Nevermind, I fingered them out....

[This message has been edited by TK (edited 05-18-2004).]

Kohburn MSG #67, 08-18-2004 01:41 PM
      so how many of you guys didn't bother putting the visors back in after finishing? I noticed that in the fiero i never used em and it looked so sharp with em removed... anybody other than 6'4" me?

Vonov (dorsaiian@comcast.net) MSG #68, 08-18-2004 06:17 PM
      I also put a layer of glass over the board on mine, and used the 8090 adhesive. It stiffened the board to a usable degree, gave a better surface for the adhesive, and enabled me to use a slightly heavier, grey denim-look fabric which almost perfectly matches the carpet. I decided to use the sun visors from the donor Eldorado (they have lighted mirrors) I got my 4.9 out of.



1MohrFiero MSG #69, 11-28-2004 09:14 AM
      Bump just to keep this fresh plus a lot of new good info here.

JazzMan (jazzman@fierocentral.com) MSG #70, 11-28-2004 01:03 PM
      Yep, this is one of the threads that Cliff needs to keep around in a read-only reference section, if there was one.

JazzMan

1MohrFiero MSG #71, 01-29-2005 06:47 PM
      Quarterly keep out of the archives bump.

Dodgerunner (dodgerunner@yahoo.com) MSG #72, 01-29-2005 10:44 PM
      Here are some pics of what we did with my sons car. Would work well with a non-sunroof or t top Fiero.

Just imagine the Fiero sig up there over your head. Hummmmm!

http://www.geocities.com/tzfbird/Headlinerpics.html

More information on the glue we used can be found from the root of the site. - or -
http://www.geocities.com/tzfbird/tzfbird.html choose Custom Headliner

DR

[This message has been edited by Dodgerunner (edited 10-04-2005).]

Scott-Wa (smcelhiney@comcast.net) MSG #73, 01-30-2005 01:07 AM
      I'm glad this thread got dredged up again, I am adding it to my favorites :-)

I think I'm going to try something custom like Dodge did... probably flames and I might try two layers in different colors... or leave out the 3d effect and sew the two colors of cloth together first, then cover. Going to have to think about this a bit

I want flames on my 87 coupe headliner to go along with my flameball shift knob :-)

Automoda MSG #74, 01-30-2005 02:17 PM
      Yeah well I'm glad this got pushed up on the forum too. Because (cry) I have bad news on my headliner project. The frigging thing sagged again in the head humps! So obviously my glue choice was CRAP. Crap I say!



Intel MSG #75, 02-01-2005 11:07 AM
      I've done headliners in a variety of cars over the past 6 years and always used 3M FoamFast 74 on the headliners that have a foam backside. People I know went the fast/cheap route and used different types of glue but they either got discolorations or it started to sag within a few months but I haven't had any problems with mine.
My local car-upholstery shop recommended FoamFast and they've been restoring collector cars for 40 years.
They also recommended 3M Fastbond 30 when applying vinyls on the internal door panels and on other hard surfaces.



Blacktree (m.blacktree@gmail.com) MSG #76, 02-02-2005 11:42 AM
      I noticed all the comments about 3M Super77 adhesive. Well, I wouldn't trust it to hold up my headliner either. But I did try 3M Super90. The headliner has been in the car for almost 6 months now. It's held up so far.

SLagrec1 (slagreca@wowway.com) MSG #77, 02-19-2005 06:46 AM
      This thread has been extremely helpful! Add us to the "been there, done the headliner" list. Our headliner was in pretty bad shape. After some patch work last year we decided to bite the bullit and to replace it with the Fierostore fiberglass version.

Both Master Tuner and Roger recommended using contact cement so that's what we did. We played around with both the DAP original and non-flammable formula. I was a bit concerned about having to lay the foam down perfectly the first time. By experimenting I found out that 1) Roger is absolutely correct, the non-flammable formula doesn't stick well at all and 2) the original formula will allow you to make subtle, minor adjustments if you do it gently yet quickly.

For reference:
This works great: DAP Weldwood Original Contact Cement
http://www.dap.com/retail/retail_detail.cfm?catid=4&subcatid=8&prodhdrid=35

This doesn't work: DAP Weldwood Nonflammable Contact Cement
http://www.dap.com/retail/retail_detail.cfm?catid=4&subcatid=8&prodhdrid=37



1MohrFiero MSG #78, 02-19-2005 07:47 AM
      I am really glad this thread has been so helpful even though I made the mistake of using the wrong glue. At least no one else will do that after reading this. Thanks for kepping it alive.



1MohrFiero MSG #79, 04-06-2005 10:07 PM
      Bump

cone shark MSG #80, 05-25-2005 03:58 PM
      Has anyone tried using 3m 8088? I had a can of 8090 in my hand today and directions said to not use
8090 on foam backed fabric and instead use 8088. I have 2 Fieros and one Saab 900 to do.


rogergarrison (fastandred@hotmail.com) MSG #81, 05-25-2005 04:19 PM
      I still say to use the contact cement. My black naugahyde headliner has been up in the Ferraro for over 7 years and not the slightest hint of ever coming loose. Sets closed up out in the hot sun a lot too. Cant beat $3.50 @ quart either. I used it on the whole interior of the GT40, ceiling, doors, trim panels, floor carpet, etc. Also what I used to build complete interiors in motor homes and conversion vans. Never have had a single failure I know of.

texasfiero (grubbyjeans@yahoo.com) MSG #82, 05-25-2005 09:03 PM
     

After cleaning the crumbled foam ( I use a ScotchBrite pad) you can repair tears and breaks with nylon window screen. Just spray with glue and work the screen material like fiberglass. It stays flexible and is easier to work the headliner afterward. If you glue the screen to the upholstered side of the liner it also makes a good reinforcement of the areas where hardware is mounted.

The local upholstery shop told me they use the 8090 because it holds up to our hot temps here. Mark the screw holes by sticking a toothpick through from the back side.

Pay attention to the orientation of sunvisor mounts before you remove them.

[This message has been edited by texasfiero (edited 05-25-2005).]

GoFast85 MSG #83, 06-01-2005 09:03 AM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by 1MohrFiero:

First remove the seat belt retainer bolts. Use a T-45 torx bit.


I beleive that it is a T-50 torx - just in case someone has to go out and buy one special


Dodgerunner (dodgerunner@yahoo.com) MSG #84, 06-01-2005 09:32 AM
      We have always used standard Contact cement as used for counter tops etc and have never had problems with them coming down. Cheap by the quart can. Just use some Wax paper to keep it from sticking as you work another area of the fabric down and remove as you go, you should have no problem.

Click on Custom Headliner
http://www.geocities.com/tzfbird/tzfbird.html

DR

[This message has been edited by Dodgerunner (edited 06-01-2005).]

Whuffo (michael@goldengatefieros.org) MSG #85, 06-02-2005 06:13 PM
      8088 was what I used for the *third* re-do of the headliner in my red coupe. First time I used Super 77; that didn't last a week before it started coming loose. Next time, I used some of the spray upholstery glue that came with the Mr. Mikes seats - should be good stuff, right? It did last longer than the 77 but two weeks later it was time to redo the third time.

The 8088 has been holding it up for over a year now with no problem. When I redo the headliner in my gold car I'll use it again - this is the adhesive that 3M designed to hold up foam headliners...

Gokart MSG #86, 06-02-2005 08:01 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by rogergarrison:I still say to use the contact cement. My black naugahyde headliner has been up in the Ferraro for over 7 years and not the slightest hint of ever coming loose. Sets closed up out in the hot sun a lot too. Cant beat $3.50 @ quart either. I used it on the whole interior of the GT40, ceiling, doors, trim panels, floor carpet, etc. Also what I used to build complete interiors in motor homes and conversion vans. Never have had a single failure I know of.

Took your advise...again! I just did mine over and used contact cement. It was tricky job because I converted my solid one into a cut-out for the sunroof clip I just installed.


Strange Brew (strange.brew@shaw.ca) MSG #87, 06-02-2005 10:52 PM
      My 2 cents for what it's worth.......at the shop I work at, we've tried most of the 3m spray & non spray adhesives. The highest strength adhesive they make in either commercial or consumer grade is the spray 90. We haven't had a failure in over 12 years of using it and most of our uses expose it to all types of extreme weather conditions. Our most common use is bonding .055 stainless steel to aluminum, although we've used it for many other things as well.

1MohrFiero MSG #88, 08-14-2005 08:30 AM
      Bump to keep this going. 8088 seems to be the best spray glue recommendation and contact cement is a sure winner. On the torx both 45 and 50 will work. If you start with the smaller and it starts to strip you may get a second chance with the 50.



cliffw (smithcc@windstream.net) MSG #89, 09-17-2005 08:58 AM
      Bump

RACE (k.kyer@mchsi.com) MSG #90, 09-19-2005 11:01 PM
      I just finished doing my own headliner but used black vinyl instead of fabric. ($20 total cost) I have a leather interior and thought that it would fit the look of the car better.

I did not reinstall the hanger hooks. I have only used them one time in three years and they do not benefit the look of the car. My next project will be the sun visors.

[This message has been edited by RACE (edited 09-19-2005).]

1MohrFiero MSG #91, 09-20-2005 06:48 AM
      Race that looks really good. I have been thinking of that myself since I redid my seats with Mr Mikes in midnight and dark gray. Same colors as yours just reversed.

On the sunvisors, they are really easy. I reinforced mine with some new cardboard. I didn't have sewing machine that was heavy enough to sew through all that so I took them to an upholstry shop in town. They sewed them for me for $6. The whole thing including the drive to the shop took less than an hour. Do a search someone has already done a thread on this redo.



RACE (k.kyer@mchsi.com) MSG #92, 09-20-2005 08:45 AM
      Thanks, I will do a search. It looked really cool without sun visors and I almost left them off but I actually use them so they were necessary. I will post another photo when they are done.

[This message has been edited by RACE (edited 09-20-2005).]

tesmith66 MSG #93, 09-20-2005 01:18 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by RACE:

+ to the first guy who can pm the link to me. I used the search button and came up with nothing. - This line will be removed when we get a winner.

Here ya go:

http://www.fiero.nl/forum/Archives/Archive-000001/HTML/20050119-2-055234.html



Kohburn MSG #94, 09-20-2005 01:48 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by RACE:

Thanks, I will do a search. It looked really cool without sun visors and I almost left them off but I actually use them so they were necessary. I will post another photo when they are done.

+ to the first guy who can pm the link to me. I used the search button and came up with nothing. - This line will be removed when we get a winner.

at my height the sun visors never get used - so i always leave em off - looks awesome without them

RACE (k.kyer@mchsi.com) MSG #95, 09-20-2005 03:03 PM
      Tesmith66, sorry that I could not give you another +. You already have one from me for the steering wheel adapter.


Tom Slick (tom.slick@northtexasfieroclub.org) MSG #96, 10-01-2005 10:51 PM
      first off, this is a great write up.
i'm attempting to redo my t-top headliner this weekend.
i took it out and it broke into two pieces. what type of resin/fiberglass
stuff do i need to fix it. i know i shouldn't do the whole headliner cause
it needs to flex to get back into the car.
how much material will i need?
what adhesive do i use?

thanks,
thomas...


1MohrFiero MSG #97, 10-02-2005 07:55 AM
      Thomas,
I would buy a yard of materialto be safe. You definetly will not use all of it with a T top. Use the left over material to do the sun visors. As for glue the contact cement works pretty good, stay away from whatever that first stuff was that I used. It is an easy job that gets great results if you take your time.


Tom Slick (tom.slick@northtexasfieroclub.org) MSG #98, 10-02-2005 10:23 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by lurker:
the part i messed up:

overall it went well, and if i ever do it again i'll be more careful.

how do you cut the corners so it doesn't to this.

another question. i'm using vinyl material do i need to
lay down some type of foam/felt first to hide any cracks.

thanks,
thomas...


motoman (kawi_rider@hotmail.com) MSG #99, 10-02-2005 11:48 PM
      Great thread! lots of good info here. My 85 fiero I bought a couple weeks ago didn't even have the cloth on it, it had already follen down and was just pulled off some time ago. I am doin alot of interior work as well as a V8 swap over the winter. This thread has alot of useful info. Where are you guys getting your material from? I know you can order the headliners but it sounds like most ppl are just going out and buying material. thats probly the best route to go eh? im not even sure what material I need as I dont' have anything to compare it too....

aqua-man (aquaexpertsinc@verizon.net) MSG #100, 10-03-2005 06:57 AM
      Most fabric stores carry some headliner material or leather / pleather that you can use.

Earl

GoFast85 MSG #101, 10-04-2005 12:14 PM
      Just got finished doing mine and figured I would add to the wealth of into out there. All went well and I even cleaned the outside of the mouldings before I put them back into place. Looked at my finished job and found a dash of black sealer on the headliner. Looks like it came off of the inside of the side moulding, as I put it in place. I figured that if you couldn't see it then why clean it? Moral of the story?? Take the time and clean both sides of the molding.

[This message has been edited by GoFast85 (edited 10-04-2005).]

Tom Slick (tom.slick@northtexasfieroclub.org) MSG #102, 10-09-2005 09:56 PM
      well my attempt at doing my headliner FAILED miserably.
i used vinyl and contact cement, not a good combination.
for some reason the contact cement loosen the backing
on the vinyl, so i pulled if off. my next attempt after taking
all the backing off the vinyl was to lay down some felt but
the pattern in the felt showed through the vinyl, so it came
off again. i went back to the store and bought the rest of the vinyl
they had for my third attempt. this time i would try the
spray adhesive. i put the vinyl on one end and proceeded to
do the other then notice that it looked like big air bubbles
under the vinyl had appear. now i have wasted 2 yards of
material and having to show for it. i guess i'll need to scrap
the vinyl and go to cloth. but i can't find any beechwood
headliner material or anything close around here. i guess i'll
have to have a professional do it.

thomas...


djbushman (djbushman@yahoo.com) MSG #103, 12-29-2005 03:22 PM
      Lots of choices!!:

-3M Super 77 (sucks)
-3M Foam Fast 74
-3M Super Trim Adhesive
-Contact Cement (overkill?)
-Alchemco Tac-IT
-3M 8088/8089
-E6000

Anyway, just a semi-bump. I think I'll try the Foam Fast 74 if I can find it.

-db.

Saxman (andrew@thecleavers.net) MSG #104, 03-04-2006 04:23 PM
      Just saw this one for the first time. Great subject!

Does anyone have a shot of their headliner without the visors? I may leave them off, too. Since my head is up in the sunroof, I won't be needing them...

KA (kamdahl@centurytel.net) MSG #105, 03-06-2006 09:51 AM
      Word of caution with the contact cement. ( I just did my pickup )
It works good, but.. Don't press too hard! I pressed the cement through the foam backing and it stuck too well leaving finger tracks! looks like crap!

If using the spray adheasive, I found it works well if you are not shy about applying it. My first attempt failed because I was too cheap to buy a extra can and sprayed it on too thin.

Blacktree (m.blacktree@gmail.com) MSG #106, 03-06-2006 04:53 PM
      ^ I agree about the spray adhesive.

When I re-covered my headliner (plus the firewall cover and door panels), I used 3M #90 adhesive. And I applied it liberally to both mating surfaces. It's been about a year and a half, and it still looks good. It even survived the hot/humid Florida summer.

RCR (rcrabine@comcast.net) MSG #107, 03-07-2006 07:26 AM
      I did not notice if someone posted this link, but thought I'd repost it anyway if it was: http://store.yahoo.com/yourautotrim-store/
These guys seem to have just about everything, and their prices look pretty good.

Bob

Tom Slick (tom.slick@northtexasfieroclub.org) MSG #108, 03-07-2006 07:31 AM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by RCR:

I did not notice if someone posted this link, but thought I'd repost it anyway if it was: http://store.yahoo.com/yourautotrim-store/
These guys seem to have just about everything, and their prices look pretty good.

Bob

thanks...
does anybody know if there beechwood is the '88 Fiero beechwood.
http://store.yahoo.com/yourautotrim-store/medbeec.html


Tom Slick (tom.slick@northtexasfieroclub.org) MSG #109, 04-24-2006 12:18 PM
      i'm giving it one more try before i let the professional handle it.
how cut the inside corners on the material so it will go up and
over and tuck into the t-top channel. i made some small cuts
but the material will not stretch enough to fit.



i know i could cut a deep enough V shape but that part would
show and that would bug me to death.

thanks...

edit: here is a photo (prvoided by jscott1) of my problem area.

[This message has been edited by Tom Slick (edited 04-25-2006).]

Tom Slick (tom.slick@northtexasfieroclub.org) MSG #110, 04-25-2006 05:13 PM
      bump...

perry rhodan (fiero_gtr@hotmail.com) MSG #111, 06-27-2006 06:47 PM
      Ok I will redo my headliner soon....I need some more info.

Is it possible to reuse the original headliner fabric (already on the headline panel) with good result or it's mandatory to use new fabric?

Whats the name of the fabric used to do the original factory headliner?

Where I can find this fabric?Can I find it in fabric store or other places?

Can I glue directly to the panel the headliner fabric? and is it the best choice?

Or do I have to put a sheet of foam between the fabric and the headliner panel? And whats the best material to put between and where it is sold?

If I've read correctly, the best choice if you have a paint spay gun is to use contact cement, but the best spay can choice is 3M Super Trim Adhesive 8090.

Thanks for your help.




1MohrFiero MSG #112, 09-06-2006 09:32 PM
      bump thump

1MohrFiero MSG #113, 10-08-2006 10:43 AM
      bump for project time

blkcofy MSG #114, 10-10-2006 08:42 PM
      Folks that have had success doing their headliner in vinyl or suede....did you guys use any kind of foam or material between the fiberglass? Has anyone used regular headliner material and then suede or vinyl over it? I just did my firewall in vinyl to match my Mr. Mike seats (Lambo Creme w/ Black pistol grip leather inserts) and want to do a black or cream suede headliner.

...and to think I was going to spend $260 for a new headliner!!


RCR (rcrabine@comcast.net) MSG #115, 10-11-2006 07:29 AM
      I wouldn't do it over the existing (or any) material. Strip it to the base board. Fit it if it needs it. Cover it with foam. Put the suede/vinyl on the foam. Take some pictures for this thread. Done.

Bob


Madscanner MSG #116, 10-20-2006 05:46 AM
      Hi All

A bit off-topic, but I am planning on installing a high-level brake light when I redo my headlining.

As my board will need a cutout for the light, can someone measure theirs when it is stripped out and let me know what the measurements are?

Also, how is the light fitting mounted and in which direction are the wires routed?

TIA

The Madscanner


Toaster_Man (jon.saale@gmail.com) MSG #117, 10-22-2006 06:36 PM
      Width: 5 5/8"
Length: There was a lot of material still on teh edge of my board, but it looks like its right at 2 1/2" from the end of the board.

As far as mounting and wiring the light, sorry. I didn't look too closely at that, all I did was pull my headboard out.


Sourmug MSG #118, 10-23-2006 02:49 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by RCR:

I did not notice if someone posted this link, but thought I'd repost it anyway if it was: http://store.yahoo.com/yourautotrim-store/
These guys seem to have just about everything, and their prices look pretty good.

Bob


Bob:

Thanks for that link! It's got all kinds of usefull stuff that I need.

Much appreciated.

Nolan


Madscanner MSG #119, 10-31-2006 06:58 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by Toaster_Man:

Width: 5 5/8"
Length: There was a lot of material still on teh edge of my board, but it looks like its right at 2 1/2" from the end of the board.

As far as mounting and wiring the light, sorry. I didn't look too closely at that, all I did was pull my headboard out.


Hi T_M

Thanks for that - I guess what I need to know is whether the brake light is mounted on the headliner or not.



Toaster_Man (jon.saale@gmail.com) MSG #120, 11-03-2006 02:32 PM
      that much I do know. The brake light and harware are mounted to the roof itself, I've been driving around without any headliner for awhile now with the light mounted. The plastic cover for the light mounts to the light hardware with those two screws, but if you measure it you'll notice that it is quite a bit wider than the headliner opening. That is because the cover and the coathooks are used to hold the headliner up in the rear (of course the coathooks aren't really needed, because the trim above the doors extends all the way to the rear window and hold teh headliner up at those corners).

The first couple months without the headliner drove me crazy. I left the brakelight cover off too, so whenever I hit the breaks, light would leak through the socket and light up the interior at night. It doesn't look like it from outside, but that lightbulb is very bright.

Also, I just checked, and the wires run directly over the the driver side B-pillar and run down behind the plastic trim piece and the frame.


Madscanner MSG #121, 11-08-2006 07:32 AM
      T_M

Many Thanks - will make it one of my projects over the winter.




The ROK MSG #122, 01-04-2007 02:33 PM
      I am tempted to try this. My headboard is in good condition with no dings or fingerprints. Only thing wrong is my headliner is torn and not sticking to the board. How would you do this with a sunroof??

Jrgicehc (jrgicehc@yahoo.com) MSG #123, 01-04-2007 06:29 PM
      i used the 3M super trim adhesive on my chrysler new yorker with a roof center console that also needed to be covered (had a bunch of curves, that was a pain). but i never had a problem with it, it held strong for the year afterwards i had it. but i also used like 3 cans. looked great too.

Carrolles (carrolles@charter.net) MSG #124, 01-05-2007 01:58 PM
      I've used 3M FoamFast 74 with great results on 10 to 15 headliners through the years. it's made for foam backed fabric. I got it at Hancock Fabrics for about $10.00 per spraycan. I believe I can get two headliners out of a can including headliners on full size cars.

Good luck


1MohrFiero MSG #125, 04-04-2007 09:34 AM
      Bump in time for spring projects.

Fastkx (burton-jennifer@sbcglobal.net) MSG #126, 04-04-2007 10:58 AM
      Great write up, need to do this myself right now.

wftb (danjesso@bmts.com) MSG #127, 04-04-2007 04:09 PM
      i used fibreglas cloth an resin to repair and stiffen up my badly damaged headboard .i worked the resin into it pretty much everywhere and it is fairly stiff but i didnt find it hard to get in the car.i then covered it with burlap using 3m spray 90 adhesive and painted it with metallic black paint.been up 2 years now with no problems.cheap fix and gives a different look .




1MohrFiero MSG #128, 07-31-2007 03:11 PM
      Back in the USA Bump.

vballman (genlee01@yahoo.com) MSG #129, 07-31-2007 03:23 PM
      a + for you! i wish I had see it before i did mine though, but i did do exactly how you did yours. now to find the fabric and a good contact.

rogergarrison (fastandred@hotmail.com) MSG #130, 07-31-2007 05:31 PM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by perry rhodan:

Ok I will redo my headliner soon....I need some more info.

Is it possible to reuse the original headliner fabric (already on the headline panel) with good result or it's mandatory to use new fabric?

Whats the name of the fabric used to do the original factory headliner?

Where I can find this fabric?Can I find it in fabric store or other places?

Can I glue directly to the panel the headliner fabric? and is it the best choice?

Or do I have to put a sheet of foam between the fabric and the headliner panel? And whats the best material to put between and where it is sold?

If I've read correctly, the best choice if you have a paint spay gun is to use contact cement, but the best spay can choice is 3M Super Trim Adhesive 8090.

Thanks for your help.



I always use spray gun with contact cement. Trick is NOT to put it on heavy. I take a quart of cement DAP Weldwood Original for Laminates, thin it with less than 1/2 pint of laquer thinner and spray it directly out of gun set at nearly closed pattern...not fanned. Spray a coat on both surfaces. It should come out stringy almost like silly string. Let it dry for a few minutes and then stick it on. I at first did my Ferrari kit in oem fabric, but later decided to do it in vinyl. I could not pull it off more than an inch from the edges even with heat. So I just put the vinyl on with same method right over the oem (padding?). It stayed just fine for next 6 years then I sold the car. Im assuming its still there. This is also the way i put commercial floor carpet to the ceiling of custom coaches, bookmobiles, mobile police ops. That carpet was so heavy it took 5 or 6 of us to lift it into the vehicle. Not one I know of ever came loose. Some say its overkill, but I like that better than redoing it every other year.



1MohrFiero MSG #131, 11-21-2007 10:44 AM
      Re bump to keep it alive.

Alex4mula (torres_a@hotmail.com) MSG #132, 11-21-2007 08:31 PM
      This is my recent job using suede. Used 3M spray. The previous one was placed with that and lasted over 10 years.




More details here:
http://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum1/HTML/068098.html



Madscanner MSG #133, 12-09-2007 10:17 AM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by Madscanner:

T_M

Many Thanks - will make it one of my projects over the winter.


And, after another 11 months, the job was done....



Ciao!




sjmaye MSG #134, 05-17-2008 04:45 PM
      TTT

Blacktree (m.blacktree@gmail.com) MSG #135, 05-17-2008 06:51 PM
      The 3M #90 spray that I used on my headliner in 2004 is still holding.

Tiny (ajs1980@gmail.com) MSG #136, 10-13-2008 11:22 AM
      Ok part bump to keep alive part question.


So i have the headliner pulled from my parts car to work on and in case I screw something up. My plan is to glass it to help it reinforce it, but im debating on using leather or glassing a bit more and painting to match the exterior. Any thoughts or comments? Has anyone done this?



Madscanner MSG #137, 10-14-2008 06:32 AM
      Do you have a sunroof or not?


I considered some reinforcing when I re-covered mine last year. In the end, I didn't reinforce it because it was stiffer after putting on the leatherette than it was before, and I wanted to retain enough flexibility so that it wasn't a PITA to put back in place.

Has anyone installed one of the new fibreglass backed Fiero Store headliners yet?



Jarhead 2m4 (bhodgesusmc@yahoo.com) MSG #138, 10-17-2008 01:53 AM
      + for the how to!

I am installing my carbon fiber headliner tomorrow. This post will definitely save me some time looking for screws and breaking some clips.


1MohrFiero MSG #139, 03-16-2009 03:34 PM
      TTT

FieroFiend MSG #140, 04-01-2009 05:12 PM
      Is there a good way to do this with vinyl? Ive tried and It doesnt seem to conform to the shapes without wrinkling horribly its a pretty strechy vinyl too but im getting beyond frustrated with it any tips or links to guides to redo headliners in vinyl?

vballman (genlee01@yahoo.com) MSG #141, 04-17-2009 10:48 PM
      I am thinking of going with vinyl on mine, so any info on them would be great!

den7bronco1 (den7bronco1@embarqmail.com) MSG #142, 04-17-2009 11:44 PM
      any body know where i can get a good used headliner board for an 86 se with sunroof and third brake light?, i know about the fiero store and i was thinking about getting the abs that comes covered but heard on here that the light grey looks more tan than grey. if thats true i will be disappointed after spending the 200.00 + it costs. they also have the fiberglass one for 100.00 but that one dont come covered and the 3rd brake light has to be cut out, and after you buy the material to finish the job or pay someone to do it your almost about back up to 200.00 again. my board broke up into about 10 pcs. after being soaked by sunroof leak, so i wasn't even going to try to salvage it. looking for one already done in light grey factory style that i can install right out of the box! let me know thanks, kevin

1MohrFiero MSG #143, 04-18-2009 08:52 AM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by FieroFiend:

Is there a good way to do this with vinyl? Ive tried and It doesnt seem to conform to the shapes without wrinkling horribly its a pretty strechy vinyl too but im getting beyond frustrated with it any tips or links to guides to redo headliners in vinyl?


On page 3 RACE did his in vinyl. Shoot him a PM or email. Maybe he can help.



infinitewill MSG #144, 06-29-2009 04:43 PM
      .

[This message has been edited by infinitewill (edited 01-05-2016).]

Larry Nakamura (lknakamura@yahoo.com) MSG #145, 06-30-2009 07:09 AM
      I was wondering if anyone has redone their sunshade yet? For
the sunroof owners that use the sunshade, most of the problem
is with the dropping cloth on the sunshade. The cloth is sewen to
the backer board too. I see the FS has reproduction ones, but
was curious if anyone out there has a solution.


labbe001 MSG #146, 06-30-2009 09:55 AM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by lurker:

the part i messed up:



any suggestions on how to keep this from happening?


labbe001 MSG #147, 07-02-2009 11:44 AM
      bump....wanting to redo headliner this weekend

Austrian Import (maximilian_ledworowski@csumb.edu) MSG #148, 03-10-2010 08:37 PM
      *anti archive bump*

josef644 (josef644@hotmail.com) MSG #149, 07-14-2010 02:01 PM
      Bump to save in my favorites.

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 07-14-2010).]

jetsnvettes2000 MSG #150, 07-14-2010 10:48 PM
      After using all the diffrent spray can glues including the 20 buck a can 3m stuff I did like roger said to do and I went to harbor freight and got a cheapo gun and went and got the wellwood contact glue for countertops at home depot and I havent had a problem since plus the stuff works great on simulated leather and seat type foam!

johnyrottin (johnharbour@hotmail.com) MSG #151, 11-08-2011 09:52 PM
      Motivational thread! I need to do this to the 86 GT!!! It has "diaper sag".

1MohrFiero MSG #152, 07-17-2012 07:18 AM
      Bump to bring it back to life.

rogergarrison (fastandred@hotmail.com) MSG #153, 07-17-2012 07:50 AM
     
 
quote
Originally posted by FieroFiend:

Is there a good way to do this with vinyl? Ive tried and It doesnt seem to conform to the shapes without wrinkling horribly its a pretty strechy vinyl too but im getting beyond frustrated with it any tips or links to guides to redo headliners in vinyl?


Its almost as easy as doing it with foamed cloth. If you never done it before, might take a few extra hands to help hold the glued vinyl or leather up off of the board. Let the center drop in till it touches, then work it gently out towards each side while they hold up the ends. DONT STRETCH IT, just let it fall and press it into the nooks and crannies. MAKE SURE you let the glue dry till its dry to the touch before you try to put them together. Im so proficient at it now, I mostly do it all by myself. If the glue is wet, it wont stay. Like Ive said already, Ive done this with cars, custom motor homes, planes and boats for many years without a single problem. The DAP glue is permanent and will never come down if you follow the instructions. AGain, dont stick it down wet...it will fail. Ill also say again, even doing headliners in heavy carpet it works perfect. Ive done everything from bookmobiles, police mobile offices, Red Cross bloodmobiles, mobile medical buses, to stars custom built RVs. Ive never had a single failure. To the poster who says this glue pulled his vinyl apart...the glue worked so well, it pulled the backing off of the cheap vinyl he must have used. Ive never had that happen. Ive seen cheap carpet and vinyl that you could pull the cloth backing off of without any trouble. A lot of customizers are now using the coarse tweed like fabric on panels, mostly because its amazingly formable to all kinds of shapes...even dashes and consoles, without bunching up or wrinkling.

[This message has been edited by rogergarrison (edited 07-17-2012).]

carbon MSG #154, 09-27-2013 08:47 AM
      1+ year bump! Hey, it's in my favorites OK?



a_bartle (abartle@glis.net) MSG #155, 09-27-2013 09:36 AM
      I just did my headliner about a month ago, yeah it was a nasty job (my backer board was in 4 pieces, patched it with the the fiberglass resin and then went all around the outside of it with the resin to beef the board up).

There has been all kinds of debate about what glue to use, which gets confusing! The place I purchased my material sold me the 3M 77 product, but after reading what others used, I didn't feel confident with that product. Others have said the 3M 90 is great, along with lots of other products from various manufactures. I ended up with 3M Headliner And Fabric Adhesive, Part # 38808. I figured 3M is a trusted brand, and this product is "called out" specific for this application, so it must be what they recommend. Who knows, it might be the same as what you'd find in the 3M 90 or even the 77, but at least the #38808 is specific for its purpose.

Anyway, it's not been long enough for me to say how well the #38808 glue is holding up, but thus far it's good. I followed the instructions to the letter (coat both the material and the backer board, then wait a little while for the glue to set up, then carefully mate them together....) and it turned out well. The project sure took me a long time, getting all the molding off and then repairing the backer board (and filling in where the sunvisor mount crushed the backer board...etc., etc.). So my advice is go slow, allow the project to spoil your weekend; you'll be happier with the results if you don't try to rush it.

I've got two more cars to do down the road, might go faster now that I've done it, and I'm "hoping" that the backer boards are in one piece this time...(even so I'll still re-enforce them with the fiberglass resin so they'll last).


84fiero123 (84fiero123@excite.com) MSG #156, 09-27-2013 11:34 AM
      not over here much so I never saw this until now, but I will second the contact adhesive for the headliner material, that's what we used at the factory when I did headliners, long ago and far away, think late 70s.

those days just the outer edges of the headliner were glued the center hang from wires that were supported from clips on the sides if I remember right, remember this was decades ago.

anyway we would hang the headliner on a board half and half on each side of the board that swiveled so we could spray the outside of it that need to be glued with a spray gun, then let them sit until the car it was going in came by. then another guy up the line would go around with a bucket of contact cement and brush it on the areas would come in contact with the stuff we sprayed on the liner, allowing some time for both to set before they were to get used.

then we would hang the headliner by the wirers and stretch the outer edges to the glued part of the roof that had been previously been contact cement.

so use contact cement.

great write up by the way.

Steve



1MohrFiero MSG #157, 10-21-2014 06:51 AM
      fresh bump



Ponnari MSG #158, 10-21-2014 03:58 PM
      Great write up Dwayne, and all the others that added info. I'll be doing my headliner this winter and after reading this I feel confident that I can do it the right way

1MohrFiero MSG #159, 10-21-2014 07:18 PM
      Thanks Lou. Its hard to believe this is 11 years old!

BrittB MSG #160, 10-31-2014 04:28 PM
      Don't forget to check out the Buddy Craig videos on YouTube. Lots of good hints the helped me through mine with good results!

rogergarrison (fastandred@hotmail.com) MSG #161, 10-31-2014 05:32 PM
      You have a better chance of it staying with spray can glues if you have a sunroof. The trim will help hold it up. You also usually wont see a problem till it gets hot outside...the spray can glue melts and down it comes.

1MohrFiero MSG #162, 04-11-2015 07:51 AM
      Bump

tiretread (rthomas34@hotmail.com) MSG #163, 07-27-2019 06:32 PM
      This is a great write up. I just took my headliner out today with this tutorial. No issues. Much appreciation!