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| Celthora87GT | Alright some input is needed and greatly aprechiated. I've loved the Ariel Atom ever since I saw it and I've wanted one ever so badly. Well yesterday I was walking past our clean scrap dumpster and saw 10 or 15 5-6 foot long square steel tubes 3/16 by 1.5 or 2 inches square. I asked my boss and he said take em. Sweet!!!! So I have somewhere between 80-100 feet of tube. Now I want to build my own tube frame automobile somewhat like the Atom. I know ill have to build the chassis first and foremost but not sure what software to use to see if the chassis will hold up. So I need some recomendations on programs. Is it possible to do it by hand and just make it stronger than what I think I need?
I want to use a 350 with a manual trans not sure if I want 2 seated or just 1 seat, I also want the front suspension to resemble a pagani zonda. I might be somewhat in over my head but challenge is what I love so if you guys have any pointers please share them. I will post pics of the diffrrent aspects I want------------------ 1987 Black GT Custom interior with Mr. Mikes seats Series 1 L67 W/ 5 speed getrag! 1988 Formula-GT
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| lurker | go for it. i want to build a tube-frame mid-engine 2 seat geo metro, but it's on the back, back, back burner. |
| TommyRocker | http://www.locostusa.com/forums/ http://www.locostusa.com/fo...6&t=9904&hilit=ariel
Do it. |
| 87antuzzi | Catia, solidworks, autocad, ironcad, delcam....the list is endless on what you need. One does not simply make a car, there is no one software that "does it all". |
| Silentassassin185 | DIY Atoms having been popping up all over the internet. I used to have a link to a forum that was based on nothing but Atom, Locost, and Caterham clones. I'll see if I can find it. In the mean time. http://gadgetopia.com/post/6571 http://jepherz.hellracers.com/ |
| 84fiero123 |
Watch the little guy in my sig dancing with the music.
------------------ Technology is great when it works, and one big pain in the ass when it doesn't Detroit iron rules all the rest are just toys.[This message has been edited by 84fiero123 (edited 05-17-2012).] |
| Zeb | First and foremost is to figure out what the front suspension, driveline, and rear suspension will be. Then you can design a frame to match.
Unless you think you're qualified, don't spend too much time trying to use software to "see if the chassis will hold up." You tell the software what to do, and unless you know what the loads are, it can't help. Just go overboard with tubing, and take your chances.
The only way to see if you'll be in over your head is to jump in and see if your feet touch the bottom. Good luck we're here to help. |
| ls3mach | I bought some 1-1/2 3/16 tube yesterday. It is $2.15 my cost. I typically mark something like that up about 35%. You want to take on the task of building a car because you got $300 worth of steel tubing?
Typically when I sell tubing for chassis, I sell Chromoly. I don't know the tensile strength of the steel you are using, buy I build the racks for my pipe trucks out of 3/16 wall square tubing and have had great luck. I can't give you a load amount as it is balanced over 3 points. I don't mean to sound discouraging, but that wouldn't be my choice for building a car that is going on the street. Fine in you want to build your kid a go-kart (except for the weight). Just my $.02.
Not to hijack your thread, but I have some 3/4" .065W 304/L instrumentation tube that I am willing to let go cheap. It won't hold a ferrule, but is super strong if you wanted it to bear a load. It has a bright annealed finish.------------------ I got bronchitis. Ain't nobody got time for that! |
| heybjorn | Consider a wooden mockup. This will help with clearances and locating the various items the car will need. The locostusa forum is a very good place for advice and ideas. |
| Celthora87GT | | | | quote | Originally posted by ls3mach: You want to take on the task of building a car because you got $300 worth of steel tubing?
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Yes that is the exact reason. There are other factors, like I can get all tubing for the car and get some of the more important main supports welded for super cheap. I don't know a better kick in the pants to get the gears turning. I'll have to ask about the strength of the steel thanks for bringing that up.
To everyone else thanks for the links and the positive inputs |
| ls3mach | | | | quote | Originally posted by Celthora87GT:
Yes that is the exact reason. There are other factors, like I can get all tubing for the car and get some of the more important main supports welded for super cheap. I don't know a better kick in the pants to get the gears turning. I'll have to ask about the strength of the steel thanks for bringing that up.
To everyone else thanks for the links and the positive inputs |
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Make sure you inquire about tensile strength. Working and burst will mean nothing in the application you are using. |
| FieroReinke | I am in the process of designing my own locost 7 based on the book design. there are plenty of people building v8 cars on www.locostusa.com. Read through the threads learn what you need to know and start collecting parts. You can also buy a stalled project off there to speed things up. I will be building around my fiero's old 2.8 with a camaro t5. I will be using a ford thunderbird rear end and modified front spindles. The steel for the frame is by far the smallest cost associated with building the car. I dont know how many people have bought the steel and built the basic frame only to stop there because that is when it becomes difficult. |
| ls3mach | | | | quote | Originally posted by FieroReinke:
I am in the process of designing my own locost 7 based on the book design. there are plenty of people building v8 cars on www.locostusa.com. Read through the threads learn what you need to know and start collecting parts. You can also buy a stalled project off there to speed things up. I will be building around my fiero's old 2.8 with a camaro t5. I will be using a ford thunderbird rear end and modified front spindles. The steel for the frame is by far the smallest cost associated with building the car. I dont know how many people have bought the steel and built the basic frame only to stop there because that is when it becomes difficult. |
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That was what my concern was with him receiving it for free. Steel is so cheap, I would make sure I got exactly what I wanted. I would think EVERY other part is going to be more than the $300 in steel that he got, which might not even be strong enough or the right lengths. The project sounds cool, but I would get want a bigger head start than that. |
| heybjorn | | | | quote | Originally posted by Celthora87GT:
I want to use a 350 with a manual trans not sure if I want 2 seated or just 1 seat, I also want the front suspension to resemble a pagani zonda.
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Just an idea, but I have always wondered why people like the idea of the locost type of vehicle but put so much effort into the ultimate design, that is, a design which maximizes suspension performance to the nth degree. Is this worth the effort for a street or street/track day car? A Formula 1 car, yes, but for a street car, light weight and wide tires appear to be the biggest performance factors. Where on the street can one use all the horsepower and cornering capability we can design into a vehicle? Build a lightweight car using as many production components, steering, suspension, brackets, and so on, as possible to keep the cost down. If cost is no object, fine, but my wife says she still has to buy shoes and pants.
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| Zeb | | | | quote | Originally posted by heybjorn:
Just an idea, but I have always wondered why people like the idea of the locost type of vehicle but put so much effort into the ultimate design, that is, a design which maximizes suspension performance to the nth degree. Is this worth the effort for a street or street/track day car? A Formula 1 car, yes, but for a street car, light weight and wide tires appear to be the biggest performance factors. Where on the street can one use all the horsepower and cornering capability we can design into a vehicle? Build a lightweight car using as many production components, steering, suspension, brackets, and so on, as possible to keep the cost down. If cost is no object, fine, but my wife says she still has to buy shoes and pants. |
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Half the "fun" is in the design. Good suspension design makes the car much more "driveable", and makes for better subjective handling. Plus, suspension designed for a car weighing twice as much won't work right on a much lighter, smaller, car. If, indeed, "Locost" is your only goal, use donor parts as far as possible.
Also, the cost involved in actually fabricating the few suspension arms is not much higher than buying the donor parts. |
| Zeb | | | | quote | Originally posted by ls3mach: You want to take on the task of building a car because you got $300 worth of steel tubing?
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It's what I refer to as a "precpitating event". Something has been kicking around in your mind for a long time, it just needs a kick-start to get you actually doing it. |
| Celthora87GT | Alright I wasn't clear enough in my first post and I apologize. I will base it off of know things and things I can get easily and quite cheaply I.e. fiero brakes and hubs and knuckles. I will use thicker better metal for the under car main supports, I will have the sub structure professionaly welded. I have thought about this a lot I've just never dove in because I didn't know where to start. This has given me some guidence on the first step. Also it will be awhile before I even get cutting. Thanks Josh |
| Silentassassin185 | Go big or go home 
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| RACE | That thing is amazing. I hope he made detailed plans as he built it. |