My 88 4 banger is leaking from the main seals and a perfect swap is this motor and trans.




Factory option G85 Limited Slip, final drive ratio 4.05

The shifter will be a simple affair, I plan on using the stock getrag cables and shifter.

This baby holds 6 quarts of mobile 1. I need to fab a engine mount some were around here.

As you can see from the last two images there are not any good meaty bolts on the bottom to use as anchers.

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yellow 88 GT, not stock
white 88 notchie, 4 banger

There has been a lot of interest in the G6 6-speed transmission. The F35 5-speed on this motor is a good option also. The limited slip is just gold. Later on I'll look into making an adapter to mate one of these to a SBC using an Archie flywheel. The axles from the ion/cobolts looks to fit right into the fiero.


The fiero outboard CV joint (mit nut) vs. the cobolt. Same spline.

Cobolt axle in a fiero hub.

The inboard CV joints, fiero on bottom. The cobolt (top) is bigger, the dia. is 1.175 with the spline count at 27@1.150" OD, all though the tulip is smaller diameter. The fiero getrag starts at 1.375 then down to 1.07 with the spline at 1.05".




The left and right side inboard splines are the same. I only have the left axle from the cobalt and it measures 23" end to end when fully compressed. When the engine is in the cradle and the axle is in place in the relaxed state, It looks like the right side needs to be about an inch shorter if everthing is the same. I'm still waiting on the right side axle to find out if I can use both cobolt axles unmolested.

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yellow 88 GT, not stock
white 88 notchie, 4 banger

The ecotec has many cool things going for it like all the accessories bolt to the block for a nice tight package. But the a/c pump is mounted very low and runs into the exhuast hump on the front cross member.

Roger Thelin (352) 375-8259 makes a kit to bolt in the 2.2L ecotec with the F23 5-speed be replacing the old cross member with one of his design.

IMG]http://pff.hostkansas.com/pffimages2/PICT0011a.jpg[/IMG]





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The 2.0L has a deeper pan and the F35 is also a differant monster from the F23 so new brackets will be needed. I am using his front cross member and will be using factory style front & rear mounts.

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yellow 88 GT, not stock
white 88 notchie, 4 banger

The frame mod is pretty simple.



Cut the vertical weld here first.



Roger's instruction are cut the vertical on the line that connects the bolt holes, the dotted line shows the crack that goes completly thru, so the more acute angle is what gets cut.



This shows the new cross member welded to the old one before I cut that diaginal line.



This is the other side before I cut off the old cross member. Doing it this way keeps the frame straight with little effort. Hat's off to Roger!



This POS is what I'm welding with. The cheap import mig was given to me because they broke the plastic wire drive the 2nd week after they bought it at auction. No vender, no parts. That was 7 years ago. The torch and wire feeder on top of it is an old ESAB unit, like 20 years old and runs off the welder open circuit voltage and came with 50 lbs of flux core wire in it. It has it's own contactor in it to keep it safe when your not welding with it. I had to wire the mig so it on all the time to power the wire feeder. Getting it to work was fun but it's not what you call a consitant good welder. At least it was free and does'nt need gas.

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yellow 88 GT, not stock
white 88 notchie, 4 banger

Here's the engine up on the work table in the subframe.















The engine is tilted back to the rear so that the oil pan bottom is flat. I may weld some temp straps on and fix it in place and do a check fit in the engine bay before I get too deep into the brakets.

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yellow 88 GT, not stock
white 88 notchie, 4 banger

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yellow 88 GT, not stock
white 88 notchie, 4 banger