 
     |
| 10 ohm charging resister (Page 1/2) |
|
rubyredfiero
|
JUN 27, 02:36 PM
|
|
|
84 SE does not have a charging light in the cluster, the FSM shows it has a 10 ohm resister in line on the brown wire from the ign switch to the "B" terminal on the alternator plug. Where is it located in the harness?
|
|
|
|
fierosound
|
JUN 27, 02:52 PM
|
|
|
|
|
theogre
|
JUN 27, 06:50 PM
|
|
Above links won't help find the "resistor" but might help otherwise.
The "resistor" is a section of Resistor Wire and likely buried in the cabin somewhere. Actual value is "10Ω ± 1Ω" (10% tolerance) means 9Ω to 11Ω.
Resistor Wires very rarely goes bad. Resistor Wire is often Label as such often printed on the wire.
You just want to see Brn Wire in the alt side plug get power to turn on the alt.
If not check C500 B3 or Ignition Switch for same w/ key on.
Even if Wire send power... the plug or the alt regulator can be bad.
Could measure Ω between C500 B3 and ignition switch but needs very long "probes" and much short out them measure the Ω or hit REL button if meter has that feature. Even then likely won't be very accurate.------------------
Dr. Ian Malcolm: Yeah, but your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should.
(Jurassic Park)
The Ogre's Fiero Cave
|
|
|
|
rubyredfiero
|
JUN 28, 07:47 AM
|
|
|
I can't believe the wealth of information you and other members provide. I will be spending time chasing down some wires. I have to find a "no charge" condition in my new swap "TPI in 84SE" thread. Sorry, don't know how to link that thread to the words in ",,,,," . Car runs and drives great, but now the voltage is about 11.6 from starting. I'm 72 and you guys keep me motivated. Thanks.
|
|
|
|
rubyredfiero
|
JUN 28, 01:56 PM
|
|
I had a chance to chase some wires this morning, even forfeited watching the NASCAR Truck race. Key off, I had 12v at the battery post, 12v at the at the starter's bat screw,12v at the "S" terminal, 0v at "F" (Yeah I know, read on) and "P" & "L" where not hooked up. Key-on-eng-off, Same except "F" has 12v. The schematic below is how I have it NOW. I'll explain what I found, I'm sure you already know.
Edited to delete wrong information, refer to 6-29-20 3:45 pm
The alternator is a 91 f-body TPI Vin 8 or Vin F. The alternator plug has the wires colored this way.
P - white
L - brown with red stripe
F - brown
S - red
Edited to delete the wrong information about the alternator
What I found was, I attached the "F" terminal of the plug to the C500 "B3". I was actually glad because all the info I read, I should have connected the "L" terminal to the C500 "B3". I figured there's my problem. After checking the wires, key-off, "P" & "F" not connected, 12v at "S" and 0v at "L". Key-on-eng-off, 12v at "S" and "L". Started the car and no charge. BTW - voltage gauge in the dash shows the battery voltage. The alternator has a solid bar attached from the ground bolt at the rear to the block for rigidity, so it's grounded good.
What else can I check other than pulling the alternator off to have it checked? Hate to do it because what used to take me an hour, now takes me all day. Thank you again.
Edited to add this - Did I fry the alternator's regulator by applying 12v to "F" terminal?[This message has been edited by rubyredfiero (edited 06-29-2020).]
|
|
|
|
theogre
|
JUN 28, 03:26 PM
|
|
bottom Img is from what? Wires don't match is something wrong. You guessing won't help because several reg's for CS family and changes F or I for that pin...
Add many CS alts Do use S pin because the Reg don't wire to Alt Out term inside of the alt.
| quote | Originally posted by rubyredfiero:
Edited to add this - Did I fry the alternator's regulator by applying 12v to "F" terminal? |
|
Maybe.
See my Cave, Watt Story and CS Alternator
Even when reading them...
Many New versions of "CS-130" and related the Regulator in them are:
Many to Most after ~ 95 CS-xxx have All Silicon Voltage Regulator (ASVR) and easily fry when wired wrong or doing electric work w/o disco the battery. see http://econtent.autozone.co...US/2/0/86/tt-661.pdf page 2
Some Old and Many ASVR reg's control by PCM and may never turn on w/o PCM. Likely because have a wire to P pin.
And P may not be wired in bottom img.
Likely need correct "Dumb" CS-130, CS-130D or whatever. Or change Regulator to the "Dumb" one if even possible for this one.[This message has been edited by theogre (edited 06-28-2020).]
|
|
|
|
rubyredfiero
|
JUN 28, 04:39 PM
|
|
|
Bottom image was a 94 Chev Impala LT-1, but deleted. My next post shows the proper alternator I used. Sorry for the confusion. [This message has been edited by rubyredfiero (edited 06-29-2020).]
|
|
|
|
rubyredfiero
|
JUN 29, 03:45 PM
|
|
I made a MISTAKE by identifying the alternator as a 94 Impala LT-1. It's the belt tensioner that was LT-1.
The alternator is a 1991 F-body (Camaro/Firebird) with TPI engine. Below is the proper schematic for the charging system.
I noticed that the f-body did not have a resister in the brown wire (circuit 250). Ogre - this make better sense now?
|
|
|
|
rubyredfiero
|
JUN 29, 04:12 PM
|
|
|
If you look at my post of 06-28-2020 01:56 PM, the only difference between my diagram and the f-body diagram is the brown wire goes from "L" on the alternator to "B3" of C500. I also noticed on the f-body diagram, the "F" brown wire is connected to switched 12v, which was my original connection before I moved it. So that should not have damaged the alternator. Still there is no charging. Battery stays at 12.52v and drops, even at 2500 rpm, no change in volts.
|
|
|
|
theogre
|
JUN 29, 05:14 PM
|
|
At this point is best is take the alt to AZ etc for "bench testing" on their machine.
If is a early ASVR type can blow the reg easily. Not hard to kill them anyway even for old SI and "older" CS alts.
Note that CS alt's won't turn on when it sees a battery low. Think < ~ 11.5 maybe < ~ 11.75 Maybe higher if wiring is crap.
CS is made to protect itself from a "dead" battery.
Most won't turn on right after starting too. Waits some seconds to maybe a minute to turn on.
If battery dies fast then take battery to test too. May have a "dead cell."
1992 drawing is "Version I" in CS page in Cave
If you look at plug parts... often labeled as F/I or I/F because that pin function is different for year/engine.
Outside of alt in img's above list F but look right below is an I. The rest matches.
Test S pin to have "12v" w/ Key On.
12v to F/I pin should turn on w/ or w/o bulb circuit.
Note: Many GM shows Diode in lamp wiring but I've never actually seen one in the car. GM copy/past many parts to whole drawing and might not be their. Most times Diode fail open so won't get "12v" at the alt plug.
84 doesn't seem to have a diode, just a resistor.
|
|
|
|
