rust on rear passenger side subframe (Page 1/2)
tricktickler JUN 23, 08:47 PM
I've been trying a while to find threads about this and have, but I need specific questions answered.




Question #1 is can you weld/reinforce the rear subframe with out screwing up the nature of the part and wheel alignment?
#2 how easy/hard is it to take the rear subframe off the car aside from the fact the car probably has to be pretty high off the ground?

Its a slow project cause I am on a tight budget. Had it since April last year and am just trying to get it safe to drive. Maybe another year if hope isn't lost I will try to replace the bushings and renew the suspension.

tricktickler JUN 23, 09:04 PM
question #3 is there a better place to jack it up from? since I've been using that subframe and it is slowing the project down when I saw that crack it hasnt been off the ground much.
theogre JUN 24, 02:32 AM
Find another cradle is better.

"Fastest?" "Easiest?"
Support engine from top to drop the cradle.
pop BJ and tie rod from knuckle, leave rest of suspension alone.
pop exhaust joint(s) so exhaust move w/ cradle.

If done careful likely still need alignment.

⚠️ Warning: Support engine needs proper tools plus have to lift the car too. Either can easily kill you if they drop.
Not a job for nubes or anyone w/o a clue.
Even w/ proper engine support... Find extra chains etc to install them as backup that if support parts fail.

Otherwise treat as engine replace job and drop the entire rear and fix everything needed while out and easy to work on.

------------------
Dr. Ian Malcolm: Yeah, but your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should.
(Jurassic Park)

The Ogre's Fiero Cave

tricktickler JUN 24, 03:15 AM

quote
Originally posted by theogre:

Find another cradle is better.

"Fastest?" "Easiest?"
Support engine from top to drop the cradle.
pop BJ and tie rod from knuckle, leave rest of suspension alone.
pop exhaust joint(s) so exhaust move w/ cradle.

If done careful likely still need alignment.

⚠️ Warning: Support engine needs proper tools plus have to lift the car too. Either can easily kill you if they drop.
Not a job for nubes or anyone w/o a clue.
Even w/ proper engine support... Find extra chains etc to install them as backup that if support parts fail.

Otherwise treat as engine replace job and drop the entire rear and fix everything needed while out and easy to work on.





Ok So it is a bigger project than expected. Thanks.
I need to get it driving at least to just make it to a better place to work on it.
tricktickler JUN 24, 01:07 PM
I'm pretty sad to realize the extent of the project over a whole year of having the car lol. I think I need to work some overtime to get it done. Like an engine hoist might not be a bad idea if I want to do the work myself.
But I want to clarify, the existing subframe probably can be welded if the only rust is what is shown in that picture and that'd save me $300-$500. I can't weld myself, but I can find a welder. Or $500(+an engine hoist) really isn't that bad considering how I seem to be committed to the thing.
DimeMachine JUN 28, 08:51 AM
I have seen a lot of Minnesota Fieros (rust belt) over the past couple of decades.

If you cradle is rusted through like that, I suspect the rear part of your spaceframe is toast as well. Pull back the rear trunk carpet on each side of the trunk and post photos of what you see - this will be very telling of the spaceframe condition.

Fingers crossed yours is O.K.

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84/87 NB, 3800SC, E-85, VS Cam, 2.8 Pulley, 4T65E-HD, HP Tuners, AEM Wideband, Regal GS Gauges, S-10 Brake Booster. 1/4 mile -11.85 at 114mph

tricktickler JUL 02, 07:40 PM

quote
Originally posted by DimeMachine:

I have seen a lot of Minnesota Fieros (rust belt) over the past couple of decades.

If you cradle is rusted through like that, I suspect the rear part of your spaceframe is toast as well. Pull back the rear trunk carpet on each side of the trunk and post photos of what you see - this will be very telling of the spaceframe condition.

Fingers crossed yours is O.K.




I meant to work on it last week, but with the feeling like I need to address the engine cradle first, I tore off all the insulation. The trunk liner looks factory new underneath and besides the battery tray being obliterated, under the insulation there it looks mint. I am glad. Now I need to know if I have a lift and engine hoist, where can I lift the car up from to get the engine cradle off?

I am thinking of buying an engine hoist and doing the 2x4 method to lift it high enough in my backyard, getting it off and having a welder look at it. I don't want to get it on a lift only to have the welder say he can't fix it.


I did lose the pics I had taken earlier and the only way to see better is to take the body panels off, but with a mirror and some light I can make out that a lot of the car still is protected. I have only found those 2 rust spots and of course surface rust or rust on hardware.

tricktickler JUL 02, 07:50 PM
to lift it with a 2x4 is it using the two factory lift spots? It might be best I just buy a used subframe, but I am not sure yet. I would like to see if a welder can fix it, but I have my doubts and thats why I probably want my own engine hoist and method of lifting it. Also there will be new bushings and recoating and replacing hardware if it comes off so I don't want to intrude on someones work space while I do those things myself.
Patrick JUL 02, 08:27 PM

quote
Originally posted by tricktickler:

...the only way to see better is to take the body panels off, but with a mirror and some light I can make out that a lot of the car still is protected. I have only found those 2 rust spots and of course surface rust or rust on hardware.



You need to at least loosen the rear plastic wheel well liners and have a look in there at the upper frame rails.

[This message has been edited by Patrick (edited 07-02-2020).]

tricktickler JUL 03, 07:25 PM
So I loosened the wheel well and its literally the same as taking a picture from below no?