Instrument cluster contacts (Page 1/2)
sjmaye MAY 12, 05:57 AM
I tested my instrument cluster with new LEDs before actually mounting it back in place. Everything worked fine. I bolted everything up and put the connectors back on. Now my coolant temp light quit working and I am getting a weird sound when I start the car. I am pretty sure one or more of the connector contacts got shoved around when I put the connectors back on.

Right now, one false move with the connectors and the contacts get bent. I was thinking of taking it all apart, straightening out the contacts and using mounting tape to hold the contacts in place.

Anyone else have a tip for me?
olejoedad MAY 12, 07:38 AM
Fingernail polish or super glue works to bond the contacts to the substrate.
sjmaye MAY 12, 09:43 AM

quote
Originally posted by olejoedad:

Fingernail polish or super glue works to bond the contacts to the substrate.



I used super glue on my other Fiero. I will try it again. Thx.
Chris Eddy MAY 13, 11:07 PM
Question.. would a recreation of the flexible conductor panel, complete and ready to replace the original, be of real value? It can be done, but probably expensive enough to require at least many dozens to be made to make it worth it. Is it?
pmbrunelle MAY 13, 11:20 PM

quote
Originally posted by Chris Eddy:

Question.. would a recreation of the flexible conductor panel, complete and ready to replace the original, be of real value? It can be done, but probably expensive enough to require at least many dozens to be made to make it worth it. Is it?



I don't think it would be that bad.

Board is single-layer IIRC, so it should be simple enough to lay flat on a scanner, then digitize, import into CAD program, and draw traces to generate Gerber files.

My work colleague likes to use pcbway, cause they're cheap:
https://www.pcbway.com/flexible.aspx

I entered the following parameters for a quick online quote:
Flexible PCB
1 layer
200 mm x 350 mm
Immersion tin
(all other parameters left at default values)

Qty 1: 137 USD
Qty 5: 53.8 USD each
Qty 20: 37.1 USD each
Chris Eddy MAY 20, 09:28 AM
Great, that looks right..
Here is a hard question. Are all flex circuits for all models the same? Is there only one that needs to be made?
olejoedad MAY 20, 11:17 AM
There at least two part numbers for the flexible circuit board.
sjmaye MAY 20, 11:28 AM
Right now I would love a solution that would guarantee I had a good connection at the connectors. I am fighting a slight flicker as I turn the key to the START position. Not sure if it is a marginal connection or if it is just the fact the new LED bulbs react much quicker to changes in voltage as compared to their incandescent counterparts. Prior to fully assembling I installed the instrument cluster alone. I could swear all responded like the incandescents, but I am beginning to question my memory..
theogre MAY 20, 11:32 AM
There are minor different versions of the board over years of Fiero. Example: Some actually have contacts for 1 or 2 "spare" bulbs hidden by front of dash. (2 blank slots above the tach lights.) The big plugs just isn't wired to use them.
84 Dash may have more changes the others.

Worse Most to all FSM and other docs are wrong what plugging into it like most/all is missing 2 "dimmer lights" lights to light fuel and temp gauges w/ HL on.
See http://www.fiero.nl/forum/F.../HTML/138175.html#p1
So can't trust data there.

"Board" is single layer but w/ plastic over the copper too. Is done to protect the copper and prevent shorts.
Replacement "boards" can have same problems of OE boards or worse. Many Fiero dash trim are missing foam to block UV from sun. Many plastics and "glue" won't last long when true. OE dash gets baked and UV and other pollution to deal with and it's a wonder last so long w/ only minor problems.

Another problem is the plastic "board" and dash case can "compress" over years and part of many bulb sockets have problems even when the sockets are replaced w/ new ones. If you just slap a new board over old case then could have problems very soon as new board conforms to old case plastic.

I think OE "board" copper is thicker then normal. Maybe 2x or 3x the thickness of most others even flex "boards." Is why can survive "bad glue" for the big plugs.
"old way" to spec a board copper is X oz copper per 1 sq/ft... (or maybe 1 sq/yd not digging thru my notes...)
most standard boards are 1oz or less. Might be this is 1.5 to 2 oz. Maybe up to 3oz.

Board base plastic is thinker too then nearly any others flex boards I seen in 40+ years of dealing with them. Between case plastic, thick board plastic and copper all adds to make clearance etc for bulb sockets and other parts to fit right.

------------------
Dr. Ian Malcolm: Yeah, but your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should.
(Jurassic Park)

The Ogre's Fiero Cave

Chris Eddy MAY 28, 10:36 PM
I knew that The Ogre would know..
How about making a rigid (normal 1/16" 2 sided) PC board with appropriate hardware to fit.. and then use sockets with wire leads that connect to the board.
I have done many lamp boards for other projects, even designs with ultra bright 5mm LED's on the PC board.. lots of options there.
I suspect that the key reason for the flex board was the uneven surfaces plus lower cost.. a standard PC board would be a very solid fix for intermittent problems.
The existing press mate connectors would have to go.. probably crimp and poke some other type of connector to replace the existing ones. Not a reversible process.
Although it MIGHT be possible to put the contacts in for the press mate style.. the copper would go around the lip of the rectangular hole in the board, castelated style.. MIGHT be possible.
Think of the upgrade possibilities!