Eff. My trans has internal break. Epoxy? (Page 2/5)
pmbrunelle MAR 27, 06:55 PM

quote
Originally posted by olejoedad:
Someone with good TIG skills could rebuild the area, the trick would be the final surfacing to get it to seal.



It would indeed be hard to make the repair area flush with the existing surface.

However, if the entire surface could be milled flat with just a bare minimum depth of cut (i.e. .003" or so), then there would be a good chance of sealing.

Not knowing anything about automatic transmissions, I don't know if the function of the trans would be impaired if this surface was cut a bit deeper.
sourmash MAR 27, 07:22 PM
I sure didn't need this, but there it is.

The yard def did that damage processing for parting---fast as they can. The shop didn't tell me, but I don't think they knew until it was already installed and HAD to see it when they changed the pan. Plus the owner was out having surgery during that time so it was play time. It should've been something I caught before taking it there, but they should've told me. I'll know next time to really go over the thing before taking it in.

Anyway, the owner said it's been forever since they rebuilt one of these and wasn't positive but it appears it'll be ok to epoxy and the back channel (outer one) looks like a no pressure exhaust passage. The inside circuit he said goes into the valve body then comes out a few inches away.

The green is what he suggested doing with epoxy, building all the way to that other back wall It WILL NOT block the flow since it has two paths, one on each end. Again he thinks the outer channel is just an exhaust. Building all the way to the next wall will prevent a blow out / working out.
To keep the plane flat how about if I use some rigid cardstock to make a clean surface that keeps the plane? That would pull off and clean off easily. What do you think about using rigid cardboard bolted up in place like it's the valve body?
Zeb MAR 28, 10:09 AM
Card stock won't be flat enough. Use a piece of glass or machined flat metal, clamped against the bottom of the valve body.

Coat it with silicone, mold release, or grease to keep from gluing it to the trans.

Good luck!
Dennis LaGrua MAR 28, 10:32 AM
You can purchase low temp (600*) aluminum soldering/brazing rods that may be able to fill this break and prove stronger than an adhesive

------------------
" THE BLACK PARALYZER" -87GT 3800SC Series III engine, custom ZZP /Frozen Boost Intercooler setup, 3.4" Pulley, Northstar TB, LS1 MAF, 3" Spintech/Hedman Exhaust, P-log Manifold, Autolite 104's, MSD wires, Custom CAI, 4T65eHD w. custom axles, Champion Radiator, S10 Brake Booster, HP Tuners VCM Suite.
"THE COLUSSUS"
87GT - ALL OUT 3.4L Turbocharged engine, Garrett Hybrid Turbo, MSD ign., modified TH125H
" ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "

sourmash MAR 28, 12:37 PM
I have confidence in epoxy being able to cure it flat and will shape with less pressure so the alum won't get out of flatness.
This has to be completed this weekend. I filed the crack and area this morning.


quote
Originally posted by Zeb:

Card stock won't be flat enough. Use a piece of glass or machined flat metal, clamped against the bottom of the valve body.
Coat it with silicone, mold release, or grease to keep from gluing it to the trans.



Yes, it would need to be something quite rigid, however epoxy can be filed fairly easily. There is a thin gasket that seals to the valve body too, of course. Grease doesn't seem like it yield a flat enough plane (difficult to apply flat). Another thinner release agent seems good. Silicone is probably easy to obtain. EDIT Waxpaper.

(1) Silicone spray like from a can? The release agent might be hard to obtain this weekend.
(2) And when done maybe a super thin sealant (but not too adhesive) for that area? What would be recommended?
(3) wgpierce, it's a rushjob I'm thinking of using Extreme Heat JB Weld which doesn't bond parts but is for cracks. I like it less the more I look. Similar products are Quik Steel at Autozone so analysis paralysis.
Kinda stuck on this point and need to get this part done today. https://www.jbweld.com/product/j-b-extremeheat

[This message has been edited by sourmash (edited 03-28-2020).]

sourmash MAR 29, 09:37 AM
Ran a test with some QuikSteel over night on an extra valve body. I like it. It packs into the crevices ans stays there. I stuck wax paper over that and smoothed it with a flat, hard piece of plastic and it cures quickly. It states a full cure in 1 hour but that was just the outer portion which does sound fully cured when tapped with a screwdriver. I also spread out a thin test wafer which would still flex for several hours, but in the morning was fully cured. The JB Weld Extreme Heat is a paste and decided not to try it. This morning I'll mod up the trans housing.

After a very short time of curing the test piece I dragged a utility knife blade (Stanley knife blade) across it and it flattened perfectly well.
Steel MAR 29, 11:16 AM
I would never recommend what you did for fixing that, but I hope it works good for you and has no future issues. I tried fixes like that in the past on my own projects as a teen and they nearly always let me down.

At the very least Id use Alumaloy to fill the area, but a tig would be the thing to do.

Sucks that damage occurred I've had a lot of issues with used parts damaged by the salvage yards, during shipping or by the loaders when I pickup entire cars from auction.

Hope to see you post back in the future and about 50 k miles on that sucker trouble free.
sourmash MAR 29, 12:25 PM
Where were you yesterday? Lol, dammit. It's done now. Shaped up and curing. The car might still be around in 50k but probably more like 20k is likely. The valve body is the challenge now. Doesn't appear the local yard today has a compatible year of valve body. Figures. There were two there last month. I've got pieces to replace the damaged one but there's a metal plate between upper and lower velve bodies and it appears to have a bonded gasket, so I need a new plate with the bonded gasket.

This is what I have to find if there's no compatible used complete body to use.
sourmash MAR 29, 06:35 PM
No cars my era found there. Took a 1999 off to compare. The upper valve body housing with the shift solenoids is different.
The electric portion of the solenoid may be oriented better than my 2001. It was sideways where at least one of mine is inline with the rotating drum. My original grenaded trans let go into the drum destroying the housing. Here's a pic of the 98-99. It also has 5 O-ring deals on a switch bolts down in that where mine only had 3 under the switch, so no swappee.

[This message has been edited by sourmash (edited 03-29-2020).]

sourmash MAR 31, 07:06 PM
JB Weld responded Monday to an email I sent Sunday.


quote
Need to repair 1/2 inch divot (fill a void) which is inside an auto trans. A punch got hammered into it. It doesn't have pressure but has constant trans fluid contact. I'd assume it gets pretty hot. Which should I use? Thank you.




quote

You can use our original JB Weld #8265S.
J-B Weld Support

P.O. Box 483 | Sulphur Springs, TX 75483
Ph: 903.885.7696 | Fx: 903.885.5911