A Hot Time in the Ol' Fiero Tonight (Page 4/4)
Notorio FEB 16, 01:26 PM
So here's what I did with the water-gas mixture: since the tank was about half full I dumped in a bottle of Iso-Heet and then added 2 gallons of new gas. I let this sit over night and then started up, barely catching after many attempts. Again several ozs of water dripped out of the muffler weep hole and clouds of steam issued from the exhaust tips. After about five minutes the water stopped dripping and the clouds disappeared and the idle improved but is still a bit rough. I stopped the engine a few times to significantly top up 50:50 coolant at the neck on the engine. At this point I noticed that the temperature gauge continued to climb until the needle was pinned high. So at that point I shut the car off.

Today, after out guests leave I will start her up again and see how the idle is doing and if the temp stabilizes will go ahead and set the timing, which is probably way off. Is there anything else I should be worrying about?
theogre FEB 16, 06:59 PM
Low coolant can make engine to run hot. If finally full still take some time to catch up.
Plus Rad Fan won't turn on until that engine switch sees ~ 235°F normally and freak out many people. Then add Low coolant can cause any/all coolant temp sender/sensor to read off doesn't help.

Most Sender/sensors are made so really needs coolant on them to read right. Low coolant in many cars often = dry sensor = big errors and can't trust anything connected to them until the system is full or close enough to immerse the tip.

Trying to fill the coolant system and other engine work may help when:
If has AC... Pull AC clutch relay plug and turn on AC in the cabin to force run the rad fan and engine blower.
No AC... carefully back probe Rad fan switch and ground the wire. Can unplug it but every time you do may wreck the plug, sender or both just from old age.

Fill following direction in my Cave, Coolant Fill
That Should get most air out before starting w/ right rad cap on it. Run some then add some should get most of the rest. System will purge air entirely over next few heat cycles by itself when cap, overflow tube and tank are good.
Notorio FEB 22, 01:09 AM
Reporting back on three issues:

1) I have confirmed the coolant is full per instructions in The Cave and when the gauge is pinned High the actual temperature at the bottom of the fill neck (taking thermostat out) is only about 90 C / 195 F (i.e. measured with thermometer). This was a new sensor I put in so perhaps the wiring is bad? Or maybe the sensor was damaged in the Short that I previously caused? The fan cycles on/off per normal operation so I am going to ignore the gauge for now.

2) The engine fires immediately up during cranking but the slight misfire / sputtering continues after the car is all warmed up and driven around the block several times. Since the 18 month-old gas had been full of water and was merely treated with one bottle of IsoHeet plus a few fresh gallons of gas added, should I expect the engine to run Smoothly now or will the entire tank of gas/isopropanol/water produce this sputtering?

3) When I short the A-B terminals to put the ECM into diagnostic mode it doesn't Stop flashing 1, 2 after three times, it keeps on flashing 1,2 for as long as the key is in the accessory position. This seems wrong compared to some write ups here ...

John
cvxjet FEB 22, 12:30 PM
I believe that the trouble light will continue to flash 3 x "12s" forever if there are no trouble codes......Just checked and mine keeps doing 12 forever!
Notorio FEB 22, 12:40 PM

quote
Originally posted by cvxjet:

I believe that the trouble light will continue to flash 3 x "12s" forever if there are no trouble codes......Just checked and mine keeps doing 12 forever!



Excellent, thanks for confirming. #3 is solved