Roof / Rear Clip sealing (Page 1/1) WonderBoy NOV 19, 09:19 PM I'm putting these parts back on and want to make sure they get put on correctly before I have a new windshield put in. Can anyone point out (photo-chop pics if you can) as to where I should check for sealing? Rain and mostly hard rain carpet gets soaked (not the heater core). Think i'm going to put a 'ring' of butyl tape on both sides. But also down the back side of the door seals. Where can I get some of that foam that goes down the windshield pillars, outer part of the metal roof and various other spots (where the rear-clip joins with the roof)? Some how its getting in between those layers of metal... I'm wondering if I was to push a little black gasket rtv into the sides of the holes that the roof/clip bolts go through would be a good idea. Does anyone have any suggestions as to places I can look to patch? Ty, Curtis WonderBoy NOV 19, 09:23 PM Forgot the other pic of the under side of the roof piece. Anything I should add or properly place? olejoedad NOV 19, 09:44 PM The Factory Service Manual highlights the location and type of sealing materials. The windshield sealing is done with butyl rubber caulking. freedom0226 NOV 19, 10:35 PM Wonder boy how did you get the whole top panel off ? i know the sun roof area has like 6 bolts that hold it in but what about the 2 small sections that go downwards the windshield. WonderBoy DEC 13, 08:33 PM Thanks for the reply. The service manual references 'sealing strips' many times with no refences to a part number, nor it's present day equivalent. Service Manual page 1166/1167, Section 1J-4 "Sealers are applied to specific joints during manufacture. These sealers are intended to prevent water and dust from entering the car and also perform as anticorrosion barriers. The originally sealed joints are obvious and any damage to these sealed locations should be corrected by resealing. Attaching points of new replacement panels should be resealed (Fig. 10). Flanged joints, overlap joints and seams should be sealed using quality sealer of medium-bodied consistency. Sealer used must retain its flexible characteristics after curing and be paintable. Open joints which require bridging of sealer to close a gap should be sealed using a heavy-bodied caulking material." Service Manual page 1241, Section 8J Roof 14. Sealing strips and filler - windshield frame at belt (6) Clean All areas where sealing strips are to be applied within ten minutes of installation. Use denatured alcohol or lacquer thinner and dry immediately with a clean cloth. Install or Connect (Figures 1,2,3, and 4) 1. Sealing strips to windshield pillar flanges... I assisted in taking this roof off and the many other panels nearly 4 years ago for entire paint color change (2 people for windshield pillars one to hold the heat gun just right and another to apply lite lifting pressure). It was pretty easy to take off this early fall by myself so I wanted to see what was missed. I'd also notice weird squeaking noises too, like a styrofoam cooler rubbing up against something, when driving over smooth yet uneven surface roads (frame moving slightly?) coming from the roof area. So I wanted to investigate that. But I think that's coming from where the roof joins/over-laps the rear-clip. These are the supplies I've got so far (may have gotten more than whats needed): 3M 08620 Window Weld 1/4" roll 3M 08625 Window Weld 1/8" roll 3M 08681 Single Step Primer Metro-Mold 3/8" roll Frost King Rubber Foam self-stick weather seal (3/4" wide 7/16" thick) Frost King Vinyl Foam self-stick weather seal (3/4" wide 1/2" thick) Is this the proper stuff? Next on my agenda: New headliner, new Mr Mikes seat covers, I'm just being very cautious before I put the interior all back in. Look, I'm no mechanic. Some of my posts may be long and contain more information than needed. I just don't want to have to take this all apart again. I appreciate those who reply. Curtis