Flywheel and 5-Speed Getrag Questions... (Page 3/3)
Blacktree OCT 09, 11:40 PM

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Originally posted by 82-T/A [At Work]: I assume that even if neutrally balanced, you still want to keep a harmonic balancer on the front, correct?


Yes, for 2 reasons. First, the HB absorbs some vibration from the crankshaft. Picture someone breaking a wine glass with harmonic resonance. That can also happen to a crankshaft. And secondly, the crankshaft pulley needs something to attach to.
82-T/A [At Work] OCT 09, 11:42 PM

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Originally posted by pmbrunelle:

You've been out of Tech for a while, so I wasn't aware of your distaste for my posts.

I'll stay out of your threads.





It's not me, I've seen this in several posts you've made to others in other threads. I *completely* understand that when you're talking to someone who you feel is ignorant on a topic, that it can get frustrating and you lose your patience quickly. But you have to learn to internalize that, and put yourself in the shoes of the person who's asking the questions. It's neither helpful, or beneficial to anyone when you respond the way you do. This is not how you make friends. I can tell that you have a lot to offer people on here with your experience and insight, but your delivery is "not great" ... to put it mildly.
lou_dias OCT 10, 10:26 AM
I'm using 2 Fidanza flywheels for years. On my 87 GT, my block came from a 2001 3400 and I rebuilt it to use iron heads and DOHC pistons and the engine was fully balanced. I'm using the Fiero accessories, etc. Engine was smooth as butter and no issues with Fidanza flywheel. Even replace the cast iron friction plate on it once already and it's still good to go.

It's also running the Summit aluminum 1.6 full roller rockers that required my aluminum valve cover spacers to site between the F-body gasket and the Fiero gasket.

I have a limited number of sets available.
Patrick OCT 10, 06:04 PM
Let me be the first here to admit that I do not have an engineering degree.


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Originally posted by 82-T/A [At Work]:

I wonder if everyone else here used Loctite on the bolts?

When I replaced the torque converter in my Fiero about 15-20 years ago, I didn't use Loctite and the converter to flywheel bolts started to back out. I learned my lesson. But I'm wondering if the lack of Loctite or thread locker is what's causing most of the issue that others are having.



From what I understand of the Fidanza "aluminum creep" issue, the flywheel mounting bolts getting loose has nothing to do with them backing out. They get loose because the aluminum (of the flywheel) that they're snugged up against changes shape around the bolt holes. The aluminum "creeps" away from the underside of the bolt heads and into the (excessively large) bolt holes. In other words, Loctite will prevent the bolts from backing out, but will not prevent the bolts (or more specifically, the flywheel) from getting loose. Make sense?

In situations where this hasn't been an issue, I can think of at least two possible reasons.
#1 - In racing and/or in low mileage vehicles, perhaps there simply haven't been enough hours of operation between flywheel re & re for enough "creep" (and therefore looseness) to have occurred. It's not going to happen overnight. It probably takes a lot of heat cycles.
#2 - Or, as I alluded to earlier, there may've been two slightly different versions of aluminum flywheels made for this engine by Fidanza... and one design may be superior to the other in this regard. (Possibly the diameter of the flywheel mounting holes is less excessive.)

[This message has been edited by Patrick (edited 10-10-2019).]

82-T/A [At Work] OCT 10, 10:59 PM

quote
Originally posted by Patrick:

Let me be the first here to admit that I do not have an engineering degree.

From what I understand of the Fidanza "aluminum creep" issue, the flywheel mounting bolts getting loose has nothing to do with them backing out. They get loose because the aluminum (of the flywheel) that they're snugged up against changes shape around the bolt holes. The aluminum "creeps" away from the underside of the bolt heads and into the (excessively large) bolt holes. In other words, Loctite will prevent the bolts from backing out, but will not prevent the bolts (or more specifically, the flywheel) from getting loose. Make sense?

In situations where this hasn't been an issue, I can think of at least two possible reasons.
#1 - In racing and/or in low mileage vehicles, perhaps there simply haven't been enough hours of operation between flywheel re & re for enough "creep" (and therefore looseness) to have occurred. It's not going to happen overnight. It probably takes a lot of heat cycles.
#2 - Or, as I alluded to earlier, there may've been two slightly different versions of aluminum flywheels made for this engine by Fidanza... and one design may be superior to the other in this regard. (Possibly the diameter of the flywheel mounting holes is less excessive.)





Perfect Patrick... makes complete sense. I thought people were machining the bolt holes to add strength to them, but I didn't realize the holes themselves were of size noticeably larger than the bolt themselves. This seems like a relatively poor design. I suspect they probably designed it that way so that it could fit a number of applications... makes total sense why this would be an issue.

My car would be low mileage too... but I'd want it to be reliable as if I was going to use it for a daily driver. Thanks for helping me out here... I appreciate it. I think I'm going to order one, and check fitment. I may go with washers like others have suggested to help "bite" onto the material.


As for an engineering degree. Getting most engineering degrees doesn't require extreme smarts, just requires dedication, like anything else that doesn't come easy. But it's not about the degree, it's what you do with the knowledge learned. The engineering degree is just a piece of paper.
Blacktree OCT 13, 09:28 AM
That's interesting. The bolt holes on my flywheel are not oversize. So it would seem there were different iterations of that flywheel.