What gauge for battery wires? (Page 1/2)
justin87 JUL 10, 10:52 AM
Quick question. I'm replacing the charging system on my 85 gt. While doing this, I want to replace the old, janky battery wires. I'm pretty sure I'm going to go with 4 gauge. Is this sufficient? Or should I go higher like 2? Also, while I'm at it; I've seen many people move the battery to the front. What is the advantage here (other then needed by some engine swaps)
Dennis LaGrua JUL 10, 10:58 AM
I make my battery cables of #4 welding cable. Works every time.

------------------
" THE BLACK PARALYZER" -87GT 3800SC Series III engine, custom ZZP /Frozen Boost Intercooler setup, 3.4" Pulley, Northstar TB, LS1 MAF, 3" Spintech/Hedman Exhaust, P-log Manifold, Autolite 104's, MSD wires, Custom CAI, 4T65eHD w. custom axles, Champion Radiator, S10 Brake Booster, HP Tuners VCM Suite.
"THE COLUSSUS"
87GT - ALL OUT 3.4L Turbocharged engine, Garrett Hybrid Turbo, MSD ign., modified TH125H
" ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "

[This message has been edited by Dennis LaGrua (edited 07-12-2019).]

Blacktree JUL 10, 11:55 PM
4 gauge would be sufficient if you're using welding cable. But for standard battery cable, I'd suggest 2 gauge.

[This message has been edited by Blacktree (edited 07-10-2019).]

theogre JUL 14, 12:44 AM
Wire Size Is Not the only issue.
Length is very important too.

4awg and short length will easily handle 3+ time more amps used to crack the car.

Get ACdelco cables w/ stamped battery ends. Not crap lead ends used by nearly everyone else for side terminal batteries.
And Do Not over tighten the cable ends. That is why battery, starter or both break easy.

------------------
Dr. Ian Malcolm: Yeah, but your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should.
(Jurassic Park)

The Ogre's Fiero Cave

Lou6t4gto JUL 15, 12:03 AM
I use #2 wire, better to err on the side of caution.
cvxjet JUL 15, 05:48 PM
I moved my battery up front under the spare tire to help the weight distribution for handling; Originally, my car was at 42/58.....So moving the 35 lb battery up front shifted the weight distribution to 43.4/56.6....The car is more stable and forgiving driving thru turns on mountain roads. Turn-in has been improved also.

I did not like having the big cables run right along the gas tank being energized all the time, so I ran the (AWG 2) starter cables, and used a separate starter solenoid up front that only energizes the positive cable at start-up...I then ran a smaller AWG 8 wire to run the car and accessories...I ran all of the cables under the car in Schedule 40 tubing to protect them. I heated the ends of the tubing and bent them up to fit the underside of the car.

I have a diagram- but can't make it post here- I can send it to your Email if you wish.....
Dennis LaGrua JUL 15, 08:31 PM

quote
Originally posted by theogre:

Wire Size Is Not the only issue.
Length is very important too.

4awg and short length will easily handle 3+ time more amps used to crack the car.

Get ACdelco cables w/ stamped battery ends. Not crap lead ends used by nearly everyone else for side terminal batteries.
And Do Not over tighten the cable ends. That is why battery, starter or both break easy.




I believe the lug terminal connections on my cables are far superior to how GM makes them. On my cables every lug ( I use copper and brass) and/or terminal end is soldered 360* around the connections using rosin core solder and flux. A small propane torch supplies the heat.

------------------
" THE BLACK PARALYZER" -87GT 3800SC Series III engine, custom ZZP /Frozen Boost Intercooler setup, 3.4" Pulley, Northstar TB, LS1 MAF, 3" Spintech/Hedman Exhaust, P-log Manifold, Autolite 104's, MSD wires, Custom CAI, 4T65eHD w. custom axles, Champion Radiator, S10 Brake Booster, HP Tuners VCM Suite.
"THE COLUSSUS"
87GT - ALL OUT 3.4L Turbocharged engine, Garrett Hybrid Turbo, MSD ign., modified TH125H
" ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "

randy86 JUL 15, 09:42 PM
Do not think solder is the answer, over time vibration and removing and re-installing the terminals will cause cracks in the solder. Unless you have some kind of support that keeps the cable from bending at the welds.
Dennis LaGrua JUL 16, 04:58 AM

quote
Originally posted by randy86:

Do not think solder is the answer, over time vibration and removing and re-installing the terminals will cause cracks in the solder. Unless you have some kind of support that keeps the cable from bending at the welds.



I've used solder on my battery cable connections for years. Many OEM electrical connections on the Fiero were made with solder and they don't come loose. If you clean and flux the cable end then put it into the lug, maybe slightly crimp it, then heat the lug with your propane torch and apply solder until it fills the end of the lug you'll be fine. Not only does the solder hold the cable to the lug, it also serves to hold the wire ends together. To finish I apply heat shrink tubing to insulate and further hold them together. Works for me.

------------------
" THE BLACK PARALYZER" -87GT 3800SC Series III engine, custom ZZP /Frozen Boost Intercooler setup, 3.4" Pulley, Northstar TB, LS1 MAF, 3" Spintech/Hedman Exhaust, P-log Manifold, Autolite 104's, MSD wires, Custom CAI, 4T65eHD w. custom axles, Champion Radiator, S10 Brake Booster, HP Tuners VCM Suite.
"THE COLUSSUS"
87GT - ALL OUT 3.4L Turbocharged engine, Garrett Hybrid Turbo, MSD ign., modified TH125H
" ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "

justin87 JUL 16, 02:56 PM

quote
Originally posted by Dennis LaGrua:


I've used solder on my battery cable connections for years. Many OEM electrical connections on the Fiero were made with solder and they don't come loose. If you clean and flux the cable end then put it into the lug, maybe slightly crimp it, then heat the lug with your propane torch and apply solder until it fills the end of the lug you'll be fine. Not only does the solder hold the cable to the lug, it also serves to hold the wire ends together. To finish I apply heat shrink tubing to insulate and further hold them together. Works for me.




I found a few great videos on youtube on this exact process and it was what I planned on doing with mine.

These videos were usually geared to people with large Jeeps and rock crawlers... so if it works for them... It should work in my little Fiero. I'm not planning on doing any drag racing with it (other than that random rev up next to a teenager at a stop light) And if it came loose after a few years, it wouldnt be the end of the world to fix again. Right now its currently held by $2 bolt on fasterners from Walmart which have probably been there 20+ years.