Universal A/C Gas refill (Page 1/1)
kjelle69 APR 15, 04:52 AM
I found a kit that is supposed to work with both R12 and R134A.

R12/134A Kit

Suitable for systems with both R134A and R12.

"Buy to R12 adapter if your vehicle is older than 1992."

What do you think about this?


RWDPLZ APR 15, 08:48 AM
No.

-Doesn't even tell you what type of gas it is. Almost definitely a propane or other highly flammable gas blend.

-There isn't enough there to even fill an entire system, meaning they probably expect you to mix it with your existing system, meaning no technician will touch the car

-Not sure about Sweden, but R-134A is available and plentiful here, no reason to use alternatives.

-The website is hosted on a .NU domain, in the country of Niue, practically screams 'scammer'

Etc.
theogre APR 15, 01:44 PM
What RWDPLZ said plus There is No "Universal" of anything that mix R134 or R12 including "Replacements" like "Freeze 12" and others posted here.

USEPA and related agencies worldwide labels Many refrigerants as Ozone and Global Warming Safe BUT most USDOT and related agencies for Vehicle Safety Standards only allow R12 R134 and New vehicles built specifically for it R1234yf. If you have a wreck with anything else loaded in the car's AC and have a fire or worse you can have big legal problems with police and everyone and their families that's hurt or killed.

R12 is nearly impossible to get at most AC shops now. Is banned for public sales in most countries for 20+ years. When legal for pro shops to carry it in some countries, Shops simply stop keeping equipment to use it because takes too much space and money to maintain etc for the low volume sales. Every refrigerant needs a complete setup to handle each type costing Thousands of whatever money for them. Many Techs don't even certificates to legally get R12 now.
R134 is available but may not be legal for DIY use in many countries.

Fiero and other old cars can be "upgraded" to handle R134 and work very well but is not a direct replacement and 30+ year old cars often need a lot of work just to recharge even with R12 and not leak out often in days or weeks. For a few that just add charge fittings on R12 cars and dump R134 in the system and get away with that for a year or more... Thousands of others leak like hell and stop working much less than a season. Many only want cheap fix to sell the car. Others dump cans every season then junk them when tired refilling them. Or have problems w/ R134 oil and water because Most R12 Driers can't handle R134. That can cause "Black Death" when the compressor Dies.

To give a clue, I wrote this pushing 20 years ago when it was easier to convert a Fiero... See my Cave, AC Conversion

Because of this Most AC shops now won't touch a car with a conversion or even do a conversion because can take days to fix all the problems only for a old part to fail soon. If you find a shop to do this expect to cost a lot. Many sell or junk much newer cars when AC has problems because of cost and I'm not talking about conversions. Recently traded 10 year old car because AC parts alone was pushing $800us. One bad part was behind the engine and very hard to remove. If a temp sensor in the AC box under the dash was bad too... you have to tear apart most of the dash to get at the box and that eats many expensive Labor Hours.

I don't like most AC "Sealers." Most simple fail to seal just the hoses because "rubber" is too far gone to help. Many leaks are compressor shaft or "Bad" compressor case and no sealer will help that. Worse, Most don't read the Directions either... Sealers to "fix" metal parts use moisture to seal and any water in the system will quickly ruin the whole system.

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Dr. Ian Malcolm: Yeah, but your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should.
(Jurassic Park)

The Ogre's Fiero Cave

Dennis LaGrua APR 19, 08:19 PM
An R-134a conversion requires that the old system be drained of all mineral oil and R-12, lines blow out if possible, new orifice tuber installed, new accumulator and new O rings on the lines. Then the system is evacuated using a vacuum pump to 26" hg and held there to test for leaks. If all is good Ester oil is added and the system recharged with R-134a to the proper fill amount.

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" THE BLACK PARALYZER" -87GT 3800SC Series III engine, custom ZZP /Frozen Boost Intercooler setup, 3.4" Pulley, Northstar TB, LS1 MAF, 3" Spintech/Hedman Exhaust, P-log Manifold, Autolite 104's, MSD wires, Custom CAI, 4T65eHD w. custom axles, Champion Radiator, S10 Brake Booster, HP Tuners VCM Suite.
"THE COLUSSUS"
87GT - ALL OUT 3.4L Turbocharged engine, Garrett Hybrid Turbo, MSD ign., modified TH125H
" ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "

Dennis LaGrua APR 19, 08:22 PM
An R-134a conversion requires that the old system be drained of all mineral oil and R-12, lines blown out if possible, new orifice tube installed, new accumulator and new O rings on the lines. Then the system is evacuated using a vacuum pump to 26" hg and held there to test for leaks. If all is good Ester oil is added and the system recharged with R-134a to the proper fill amount. There is no easy way to do this.

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" THE BLACK PARALYZER" -87GT 3800SC Series III engine, custom ZZP /Frozen Boost Intercooler setup, 3.4" Pulley, Northstar TB, LS1 MAF, 3" Spintech/Hedman Exhaust, P-log Manifold, Autolite 104's, MSD wires, Custom CAI, 4T65eHD w. custom axles, Champion Radiator, S10 Brake Booster, HP Tuners VCM Suite.
"THE COLUSSUS"
87GT - ALL OUT 3.4L Turbocharged engine, Garrett Hybrid Turbo, MSD ign., modified TH125H
" ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "

Habanera Hal APR 20, 08:07 AM
Well, at least it does come with a warning label.

[This message has been edited by Habanera Hal (edited 04-20-2019).]

kjelle69 APR 27, 12:43 PM
Ok guys, thanks for the input.
I will consider a conversion kit.
The efficiency has deteriorated very slowly over the years so I guess there is a leak somewhere also.