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The White Bug (Page 2/42) |
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pmbrunelle
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JAN 03, 01:25 PM
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Well that just about sums up the major chunks of work completed so far.
As other blocks of work are completed, I'll post them. The next block of work to complete is the water injection system, followed by the distributor sensor, and everything else after that.
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Daryl M
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JAN 03, 02:48 PM
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88Fingers
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JAN 03, 07:24 PM
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Wow man! Wow! I am totally speechless, that's why I have to type this as I am speechless. What wonderful and innovative work you are doing PMB. You are making Canadian Fieros proud! Bravo!!
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Raydar
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JAN 03, 07:47 PM
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quote | Originally posted by pmbrunelle:
In a standard 90s GM setup, the crankshaft position sensor is wired to the DIS brick.
I don't want a DIS; I want my Fiero to have the classic distributor look. Hence, in this setup, the crank sensor is read "directly" by the ECU; no DIS brick in between.
I did, however, make a circuit to convert the crank sensor's weak analog signal into a robust digital signal. It uses a Maxim MAX9924 integrated circuit to do the job. The case is made from CNC-machined nylon 6/6.
<snip>
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Holy smokes, man! You do some nice work!
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pmbrunelle
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JAN 03, 10:09 PM
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Thanks for the nice remarks.
Actually Raydar, I think I got the idea of the RAM HD clutch from one of your posts, where you said you were happy using it with your 4.9 Cadillac.
So I decided to buy the RAM HD clutch.
Afterwards, I saw a thread of yours where you mentioned that your RAM clutch blew up I guess I'll see what happens!
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Raydar
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JAN 04, 03:08 PM
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quote | Originally posted by pmbrunelle:
Thanks for the nice remarks.
Actually Raydar, I think I got the idea of the RAM HD clutch from one of your posts, where you said you were happy using it with your 4.9 Cadillac.
So I decided to buy the RAM HD clutch.
Afterwards, I saw a thread of yours where you mentioned that your RAM clutch blew up I guess I'll see what happens!
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Actually, that was a comedy of errors. (Ya' learn... ya' know?)
In the first place, the HTOB Getrag really requires a Cavalier clutch assembly. The Fiero clutch assembly is ~3/8" too tall (flywheel surface to tips of release fingers) to provide for adequate clutch wear.
In the second place, the depression in the center of the LSC flywheel was too small in diameter for that particular disk. The rivets around the edge of the hub actually made contact with the friction surface of the flywheel. Eventually, as the clutch wore, the rivets stopped the disk from pressing cleanly against the flywheel. These were NOT the rivets that held the lining to the disk. The disk was probably only about 10% worn, when the rivets started making themselves known. I can send you links to pics of the "rivet" thing, if you'd like.
Nothing ever blew up. The clutch was fine. The application was... lacking.
Edit - My swap thread has been updated. http://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum1/HTML/098659.html[This message has been edited by Raydar (edited 01-06-2019).]
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2.5
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JAN 07, 11:23 AM
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Good stuff! Thanks for posting it How did you refinish the shiftier mechanism parts that weren't painted?
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pmbrunelle
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JAN 07, 12:53 PM
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After taking the shifter apart, I sandblasted everything. Fast way to clean the spaces between the coils of the spring and other small places.
The sandblast takes off everything and leaves a rough surface that is good for paint to stick onto.
The sandblasted finish is also good at picking up other types of stains, and good at rusting. I don't like the feel of sandblasted threads either.
So, for these other surfaces, I like to wirebrush them smooth, to make the rough sandblasted finish shiny.
Then, to protect (sort of) the unpainted surfaces, I rubbed motor oil on them, but since the shifter is in the cabin under the center console, I don't think the oil will be washed/rubbed away so easily.
From my time in the Militia, I know that guns require regular applications of oil to keep the rust at bay.
In this case, I would expect the metal to eventually become rusty, as I don't plan on regularly reapplying the oil... but since it took 30 years for the original shifter (which didn't have oil) to get light cosmetic rust, I think this shifter will be good for quite a while. Functional, at least.
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2.5
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JAN 08, 08:51 AM
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quote | Originally posted by pmbrunelle:
After taking the shifter apart, I sandblasted everything. Fast way to clean the spaces between the coils of the spring and other small places.
The sandblast takes off everything and leaves a rough surface that is good for paint to stick onto.
The sandblasted finish is also good at picking up other types of stains, and good at rusting. I don't like the feel of sandblasted threads either.
So, for these other surfaces, I like to wirebrush them smooth, to make the rough sandblasted finish shiny.
Then, to protect (sort of) the unpainted surfaces, I rubbed motor oil on them, but since the shifter is in the cabin under the center console, I don't think the oil will be washed/rubbed away so easily.
From my time in the Militia, I know that guns require regular applications of oil to keep the rust at bay.
In this case, I would expect the metal to eventually become rusty, as I don't plan on regularly reapplying the oil... but since it took 30 years for the original shifter (which didn't have oil) to get light cosmetic rust, I think this shifter will be good for quite a while. Functional, at least. |
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Thanks.
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fierosound
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JAN 08, 11:11 AM
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