Gen 2 headlight module repair experts? (Page 1/1)
KurtAKX JUL 27, 10:39 PM
I recently picked up this beater 87 blue coupe.
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When I got it, both headlight motor gear pucks were F'd.
I put Rodney's Delrin pucks in headlight gears, and all was spiffy....for a week.

Now, the passenger headlight functions normally, but when the headlights are turned off, the driver's headlight has started closing tightly and refuses to come up unless I back off the manual knob a little bit first.... then it works "up" normally.

I assume that this is because whatever circuit in the headlight module is responsible for current detection has a problem.
Does somebody have a rough circuit diagram that shows me where I might be looking for the current detection part of the circuit- there must be a shunt resistor of some sort, right?

[This message has been edited by KurtAKX (edited 07-27-2017).]

theogre JUL 28, 12:05 AM
the motor is still having problems.
Module is doing its job and killing power to it thinking the motor is jammed.
See my Cave, Gen 2 HL Motor

you fix it/them for the pins then the motor can jam for several reasons, break the gear or break the output shaft.
I and others stopped messing w/ motors and bought Cardone new motors. https://www.cardone.com/ to get PN's

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Dr. Ian Malcolm: Yeah, but your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should.
(Jurassic Park)


The Ogre's Fiero Cave

[This message has been edited by theogre (edited 07-28-2017).]

KurtAKX JUL 28, 09:33 AM
I'm wondering if I'm hitting current limiting in "UP" due to the module not being able to detect current when it runs the motor "DOWN", effectively binding up the motor.
I will check to see if module continues supplying power to motor in "DOWN" after the headlight motor stops turning.

I know the little balls at the end of the worm gear are still in place, and I didn't adjust motor/worm endplay at all when I put the Rodney pucks in.
Shho13 JUL 28, 04:24 PM
I can vouch for the Cardone units. They work great! They are brand new, but I think they are made in China, so I can't say if they will last as long as our old factory units.

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"Discord"
Red 1988 GT under restoration!

Let's Go Mets!

( ͡° ͜ʖ ͡°)

KurtAKX JUL 28, 10:48 PM

quote
Originally posted by Shho13:

I can vouch for the Cardone units. They work great! They are brand new, but I think they are made in China, so I can't say if they will last as long as our old factory units.




Part number? Price?
Shho13 JUL 29, 12:52 AM
You have two options...

Cardone unit from Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Card...iero+headlight+motor

Ebay unknown brand, but looks identical: http://www.ebay.com/itm/New...AOSw42dZIQWT&vxp=mtr

------------------
"Discord"
Red 1988 GT under restoration!

Let's Go Mets!

( ͡° ͜ʖ ͡°)

Chris Eddy JUL 31, 09:22 PM
FWIW, I believe that I have the basics of the headlight controller figured out. When the mosfet transistor is on, the current through the mosfet causes a voltage drop. When the voltage rises to a certain point, the chip triggers off.
There are two mosfets and two relays.
migs JAN 20, 12:19 PM
I am having my own probems with this system as I have converted to use the gen 2 on my 1986. My issue is that nothing raises or lowers using the switch. I have changed out the motors for the cardone versions, used the wire diagrams found here and verified that the 5 prong plug that goes into the module is wired correctly and has the correct pins with 12v+ on or off depending on the switch position. However when I check the output on the 4 wire plug that goes from the module to the individual headlights each one of these is showing 12v+ ALL THE TIME!! thats not changing with the headlight switch position and the only movement i get out of this is by hand cranking the headlights up and then initially connecting the module 5 wire plug which then powers both motors in the down position until they are closed and then nothing else. I had initially been sold a firebird 4th gen module which i have now substituted for one which is listed as from a 1988 Reatta and was listed as should work on Fiero. Internally both seem to have no broken parts although they have different electronics and both have the same 12v+ output on the 4 prong connecter all the time.

[This message has been edited by migs (edited 01-20-2018).]