OK folks, Up to now I have been reassembling the engine and yesterday Evan and I put it in the car.

One of the "Must Do's" is turfing the TBI coolant lines. Not only do they rob you of power but they are in the way of every sensor, module, and bolt you need access too. Since the MAP sensor is attached you need to hack off the MAP sensor bracket first. as for the coolant outlets on the thermostat housing you can just loop over a piece small hose but I prefer to cut them off and weld up the holes.



There are 3 main changes you need to make when you swap a pre-88 engine and harness into a 1988 car. 1) the cross over pipe will point directly at the torsion bar and needs a bit of a bend upwards to clear it. 2) The pigtail for the CS130 alternator needs to be changed, 3) the oil pressure sending unit is different and need a new pigtail as well (optional). You can just use a pre-88 pressure sending unit, as I am doing here. Also notice that I removed the bulkhead heat sheild (The leaf catcher) and used thermal wrap instead. This will make maintenance so much easier, improves heat retention, reduces underhood temps, and looks cool too.



For the cross over pipe the solution is to use your BFP. No workshop is complete without one. You only need to bend it up about 1 inch. TIP, do not use a pry bar or some other object inside the crossover pipe, you'll just warp the thin metal, use a large pipe OVER the outer diameter of the crossover pipe.



The pigtail is an off the shelf item at any NAPA store. Connect the red wire to red, the brown wire to brown, and don't connect the black wire to anything (just tape it down). Boom, that is literally all there is to a CS130 upgrade. For the Red Wire, your average 25w solder iron will not work, you need a 100-300watt solder gun.



The previous owner didn't like the crumby stainless exhuast tips (can't blame him) so he put some crumby tip covers over them. they just screw on, so I removed them and used plumbers tape to sand the crud off the tips while I had the chance. I will get after it with some metal polish when I have time for detailing.



Finally! time to put the engine back in. 2 hours work we had it back where it belongs.



We still need to bleed the brakes. I will eventually upgrade the brakes, struts, rotors, etc but for now I just need it running. I had a spare set of sway bar poly bushings so I installed those. TIP, always do this last when installing and first when removing the engine. If you leave them attached you will never get the struts spread far enough apart to slide up into the strut towers.



Today we will bleed everything, reconnect all the hoses, cables, wires, etc. and get it on the ground. with luck, we will have it running today!

[This message has been edited by Toddster (edited 11-10-2019).]

quote Originally posted by Toddster: ... We are on Roswell Georgia and loving it...y'all

Dude... WTF?!
Didn't see that coming.

Welcome to the South. Bless your heart.

Nice house, BTW.

[This message has been edited by Raydar (edited 12-17-2019).]

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Thank You
Thomas
NIFE Activity Director
1987 Fiero GT T-Top 1988 Fiero Formula

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[This message has been edited by IMSA GT (edited 05-22-2020).]

So the project is on hold for a few more weeks until the weather improves. After moving, we used the garage for storage and there is no room to work. I need to install some overheads and shelves as well as run a new outlet to get power t the work benches and sand blasting cabinet. I am getting a shed as well to store the gardening tools, trash bins, and miscellaneous items.

I will post pics soon and then we can get back to work on the car.

[This message has been edited by Toddster (edited 03-03-2020).]